
Glass 

Book 



lie 



w 







TO0K00L1T0, 0. F. Dili, AND 



AJI^Jc 




.• 



Harper & Brothers. New Ygb.k. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/arcticresearches01hall 



ARCTIC RESEARCHES 



LIFE AMONG THE ESQUIMAUX 



BEING TI1K 



NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN 
FRANKLIN, 



IN THE YEARS 1860, 1861, AND 1862. 



HT 

J 

CHARLES FRANCIS HALL. 



EEfftlj iHaps anfc <Dne Jljuirtrrt illustrations. 



I 










N E W Y R K : 

HAKl'K I; A li ROT HERS, PVBLISHEBS, 

I R A N B I. I H S(JU A B 1. 

1 8 65. 

1/ 



(jf- (o Go 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred 
and sixty-four, by 

Harper & Brothers, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. 



PREFACE 



Before this book passes from the -writers bands into tbose of 
tbe reader, tbe author will be once more among the ice of the arc- 
tic regions. Though the last page of manuscript was writtep on 
the morninsr of mv embarkation, the book itself has been no 
hasty work. I returned nearly two years ago from the expedi- 
tion which I have endeavored to describe. Almost every hour 
since then, which could be spared from the arrangements for my 
second expedition, has been devoted to the preparation of this 
volume from my voluminous journal and notes taken on the 
spot. 

Before dismissing the book, however, from my hands, I wish to 
say a few words by way of explanation of certain matters con- 
nected with my explorations. The reader will perhaps wonder 
why so much importance was given to the discovery of the Fro- 
bisher relics. I answer, partly because of the interest which at- 
tached itself to the remains of men so long ago left in that waste 
land ; but partly, too, because the discovery of these remains, and 
the tracing of their history among the Esquimaux, confirmed, in 
a remarkable manner, my belief that these people retain among 
them, with great positivcness,the memory of important and strange 
incidents ; and as their traditions of Frobisher, when I was able to 
get at them, were so clear, I am persuaded that among them may 
be sought, by one competent, with every chance of complete suc- 
cess, the sad history of Sir John Franklin's men. 

To make myself competent for this more interesting and im- 
portant research, I patiently acquired the language and familiar- 
ized myself with the habits of the Esquimaux. I return now to 



iv PREFACE. 

their country able to speak with them, to live among them, to 
support my life in the same manner that they do theirs ; to mi- 
grate with them from place to place, and to traverse and patiently 
explore all the region in which it is reasonable to suppose Frank- 
lin's crew traveled and. perished. I shall be accompanied by the 
two intelligent Esquimaux, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, who, hav- 
ing accompanied me on my return from my first expedition, and 
after remaining with me for two years, now go back with me on 
this second voyage. 

I enter upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success. I 
shall not, like previous explorers, set my foot on shore for a few 
da}'s or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language 
is to me unintelligible. I shall live for two or three years among 
the Esquimaux, and gain their confidence ; and I have the ad- 
vantage of understanding the language, and of making all my 
wishes known to them. 

I will not close without offering my thanks to my Publishers 
for their patience and courtesy ; to the Artists for the beautiful 
and accurate drawings made by them, under my own eye, from 
my rough sketches ; and to the Engravers and Printers for their 
constant forbearance in the trouble I gave them, unaccustomed 
as I was to literary labors, yet anxious to obtain the utmost ex- 
actness in my narrative. 

C. F. IT. 

June 30, 1S64, on board bark Monticello,') 
bound for the Arctic Regions. ) 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
Departure. — " Rescue" Schooner. — Names of Crew. — Outfit. — Sea-sickness. — First 
Sight of Whales. — William Stern- . — Banks of Newfoundland. — Storm at Sea. — 
"Sulphur Bottoms." — The first Iceberg. — Visit to one. — The Danish Brig Mari- 
ane. — Past Experiences of Scurvy. — Death and Burial of Kudlago. — Fourth of 
July at Sea. — Halibut and Codfish. — First Meeting with Esquimaux. — Native Pi- 
lots. — Ephraim's Pants. — Midnight Sun. — Arrival at Holsteinborg Page 31 

CHAPTER II. 
Land and Visit the Governor. — Brief History of Greenland. — The Holsteinborg Dis- 
trict. — Esquimaux and European Population. — Protection and Care of the Na- 
tives by the Danish Crown. — Plagues of Greenland. — Musquitoes. — Trade and 
Barter. — A Yankee outwitted by an Esquimaux. — Dinner at the Governor's. — 
M'Clintock's Work. — The Priest's Wife. — Visit the Government Buildings. — Ar- 
rival of the Iiescve. — Lars's Care for his Family. — Dance on Shore. — A Mountain 
Excursion. — Rocks crumbling to pieces. — Action of Freezing Water in Crevices. 
— Sundays' and Esquimaux Amusements. — Greenland Festival. — Schools and 
Printing. — Dr. Rink 4!) 

CHAPTER III. 

Visit of Governor Elberg to the Ship. — His Pleasure at American Progress. — Adam 
Beck. — Another Mountain Ascent. — The "Woman's Hood." — A grand Scene. — 
Ball on board Ship. — Sun's Eclipse. — Danger to Ship and Boat in a Gale. — Cu- 
rious Esquimaux Feats. — Mishap to the George Henry's Windlass. — A stirring 
Picture. — Kind Assistance of the Governor. — Preparations for Departure. — Let- 
ters Home. — Leave-taking. — Final Adieus. — Farewell to Holsteinborg 71 

CHAPTER rv. 
Crossing Davis's Straits.— Sea-sickness again.— "Perpetual Motion."— Changing 
arance and Movements of Icebergs.— Beautiful Sunsets and Morning Skies. 
— Refraction. — Nature on a Spree. — Distorted Moon.— Mountains "hanging on 
a Thread."— God's living Arches. — "Merrie Dancers" in the Sky. — Approach to 
Land. — Fogs.— Another Gale. — Desperate Party of runaway Seamen. — Horrible 
Tale of Starvation and Cannibalism. — Anchor in Kowtukjua Harbor 83 

CHAPTER V. 

Vi-ir d by the Natives. — Brief Account of some of them. — A very aged Woman. — 

Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo.— A numerous Family. — I'garng and his thirteen Wins.— 

bing and Tookoolito.— Kudlago's Widow, Kok-er-jab-in.—" Blind George." 

— Excursion on Shore. — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs. — Beautiful Scenery. — 

How Nature splits huge Rocks.— An Alabaster Cavo.— Arctic Food.— Firsl 



v i CONTENTS. 

of Bear-meat. — Americanizing Kim-mi-loo. — A Blind Man threading a Needle 
and mending Clothes.— Astonishment created hy a Magnet. — Ugarng and the 
Quicksilver. — Author's narrow Escape from Death. — Geological Character of the 
Rocks. — Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay. — A Cruise in the Rescue. — Ar- 
rival in new Waters Pago 9'J 

CHAPTER VI. 
First Visit to Frobisher Bay. — " Meta Incognita." — Fossils. — Koo-jesse and his 
Family. — Old Artarkparu. — The beautiful Kok-cr-zliun. — Skinning Ducks. — Es- 
quimaux Food. — Native Mode of Sleeping. — Inuuit Head-ornaments. — Return 
to the Ship. — Excursion on Shore. — White Man's Grave. — Esquimaux Grave. — 
Chart made by Koojesse. — Innuit Skill in Geography. — Aurora Borealis. — Vis- 
ited by Numbers of the Natives. — Skill of the Women at Work. — Trial of the Ex- 
pedition Boat. — Journey on Laud. — Annawa. — Ancient Dwellings of the Innuits. 
— A Mountain Pass. — Old Mother Pe-ta-to. — Puto and the/White Child. — Whale 
captured. — An exciting Scene. — Great Feast for the Natives. — Author's first 
Trial at raw Whale-meat. — Custom and Education alone prevents the Enjoy- 
ment of raw Food. — Discovery of a Frobisher Relic 117 

CHAPTER VII. 
Boat Incident. — Life hanging on a Shoe-string. — Courage of Esquimaux Boys. — 
Author's Escape. — Decomposed Rocks. — Tcs-su-irin. — Arrival of the Georgiana. — 
Author's Sickness and Recovery. — Attention of the Natives. — Independent Char- 
acter of the Esquimaux. — Deserving the attention of Philanthropists. — A fearful 
Gale. — The Rescue and the Expedition Boat wrecked. — The Georgiana on Shore. 
— The George Henri] in great Danger. — Gale abates. — The Georgiana got off the 
Rocks undamaged. — She departs for Northumberland Inlet 13u 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Splendid Displays of the Aurora. — "The World on Fire." — Arrival of Captain 
Parker in the True-love. — Visit to his Ship. — Nikujar the Pilot. — Anecdotes of 
Parker's Arctic Experiences. — First Interview with the Innuits Ebierbing and 
Tookoolito. — Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty. — The 
Accomplishments of Tookoolito — Eenoolooapik. — A Walk on Shore. — Snow- 
storm. — A natural Causeway. — Fluctuations of the Compass Needle. — Tookoo- 
lito at Work. — She tries to Educate her People. — Her Power to do Good. — Ad- 
vantages of a Mission Colony. — Difference of Language among the Esquimaux. — 
Carl Petersen, M'Clintock's Interpreter. — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers 147 

CHAPTER IX. 
Visit to Esquimaux Village. — First Specimen of domestic Life among the Innuits. 
— Seal's Blood excellent. — Blind George in Trouble. — His paternal Affection. — 
"Black Skin" for Food. — Female Tongues good Cleaners. — The Angeko. — Ex- 
traordinary Conduct of the Natives. — The Angeko's Power. — Mysteries of Innuit 
Worship. — Koojesse's Trepidation. — Angeko's Cunning. — Choice of Wives. — Cu- 
rious Guide Poles to Travelers. — Charley's independence of Angeko. — Ship beset 
in the lee. — Hoar-frost on the Rigging. — Changes of Temperature. — Sudden 
Movements of the Ice. — Frozen in. — A Bear Hunt — Author's first Encounter with 
a Bear. — Death of Bruin. — Visit the Tupic of Ebierbing. — Scarcity of Innuit 
Food and Fuel. — The Esquimaux Lamp. — Patience and Perseverance of an In- 
nuit Hunter. — An Igloo 1C4 



CONTENTS. vil 

CHAPTEB X. 

Iicmarkablo Echo. — Visit of "Sampson." — Imniit Mode of Washing the Face. — 
'• Job's Comforters." — "Bridge of Sighs." — Mothers nursing their Children. — 
Serviceable Hoods. — Tails of Imniit Dresses. — Cold in Winter endurable. — Ex- 
traordinary mild Weather. — Igloos in Ruins. — Kelp used for Food. — Christmas 
and New Year's Day. — Sick Nukerton. — Inattention to the Infirm and Dying. — 
' Cruel Abandonment. — Innuit Superstitions. — Author's lonely Watch. — Death of 
Nukerton. — The female Angeko. — Kooperarchu's Death.. — Reflections. — Innuit 
Idea of a Future State I'age 177 

CHAPTER XI. 

A January Sledge Excursion to Cornelius Grinnell Cay. — Rough Traveling overland. 
— High Cliffs. — Descent of the Sledge on to the frozen Sea. — Camp on the Ice. — 
First Night in an Igloo. — Proceed on the Journey. — Dangerous Traveling. — 
Second Night on the Ice. — Detention. — Cold. — An icy Beard. — Hair-cutting. — 
A Storm. — Disruption of the Ice. — Fearful Peril. — Cessation of the Gale. — Con- 
tinue the Journey. — Ice on the Move in every Direction. — Deep Snow. — Treach- 
erous Footing. — Laborious Work — -Arrive at Rogers's Island. — Great Thirst. — In- 
nuit Welcome. — A Cup of Water. — Hospitality. — Light, Warmth, and Food. — 
Night's Rest. — Disappearance of the Ice. — Remarkable Preservation. — Frostbites. 
— A serviceable pocket Mirror. — Bad Weather. — Whalcskin eaten as Food.— 
Attempted Return to the Ship. — Author's weak State. — Innuit Seal-hunting.- 
Starving Condition of the Party :i' 

CHAPTER XII. 
Writing under Difficulties. — No Fire or Lamp. — Only two Inches of Black >Un for 
Food. — Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs. — Relief obtained. — Ebierbing's Return. — 
A Seal captured. — Supplies from the Ship. — Grand Feast of raw Meat.- 'Hunger 
needs no Sauce. — Great Consumption of Food at a time. — Old Ookijoxv tvinoo's 
Dream. — An Innuit Mark of a Seal-hole. — Tobacco-juice useful. — Wafrhmg for 
the Seal. — Innuit Endurance of Cold. — Eating frozen Seal's Entrails. — b\ 
cooking and partaking of Innuit Food. — Severe Cold. — The Angeko again. — 
Burning the Fingers with cold Brass. — First Reindeer seen. — More Inuuit Arri- 
vals. — Improvidence of the Natives. — Generous Disposition. — Live to-day and 
Want to-morrow. — Author Visits Kowtukjua — Clark's Harbor — and Ookoolear — 
Allen's Island. — Return to the Igloo Village. — Departure for the Ship. — Too- 
koolito's Sadness. — Quick Journey. — Plaintive Look of a Seal. — Arrive at the 
Geor'jc Henry , 20G 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Irksome Change from a Snow House to the Ship's Cabin. — Native Village on the 
Ice. — Scurvy on Board. — Best Cure for it. — "Tuktoo! Tuktoo!" — A Reindeer 
Huut. — Dogs in Chase. — Remarkable Sagacity and Courage of Barbekark. — The 
Deer killed by him. — Great Struggle between them. — A Venison Feast for the 
Ship's Crew. — Death of Blind George's Wife. — Some of the sick Crew sent to live 
with the Natives. — The Innuit King-wat-che-ung. — His Kindness to White Men. 
— Koojesse and Charley. — A sick Man's Obstinacy. — ( Ine oft lie Sailors missing. — 
Search for him. — Severely cold Weather. — Most of the Party unable to keep up 
the Search. — The Author and one Sailor persevere. — The missing Man's Tracks : 
his erratic Movements; ho gets confused and goes Seaward; has a Rest in the 



v jjj CONTENTS. 

Snow ; moves on again, and proceeds Miles from the Ship ; his Scramhle round 
an Iceberg. — Author and his Companion exhausted. — Temptation to lie down 
and Sleep. — Sledge arrives from the Ship. — Search continued. — Tracks lead to 
the Shore. — Signs of a fearful Struggle. — Discovery of the Body, frozen stiff. — 
Ground too hard to dig a Grave. — Cover the Corpse with Ice and Snow. — Return 
to the Shi]) Page 219 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Visited by more Innuits. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — The Seal-dog. — Perils on 
the Ice. — Innuits carried out to Sea. — Starvation.— Dogs eaten. — Three Months 
away from Land. — Return of the Party, mere Skeletons. — Thrilling Incidents. — 
An Innuit carried down by a Whale and afterward saved. — A Man's Leg snap- 
ped oft'. — Suzhi's Husband killed by an Avalanche. — Incidents of White Men's 
Perils and Escapes. — Kindness of the Natives. — Another Man nearly frozen to 
Death. — Heavy Snow-storm. — Danger to Mate Rogers and his Innuit Guide. — 
Dog Barbekark saves them. — Commencement of Spring. — Author's Occupations. 
— Makes some Instruments for his Use in exploring. — Plans. — Strange Informa- 
tion gathered from the Natives. — Tradition concerning White Men. — Frobisher's 
Expedition 243 

CHAPTER XV. 

First Excursion in Frobisher Bay. — Crossing the Mountain Pass. — Traveling on the 
Ice. — A Tradition concerning White Men masting a Ship. — Arrival at Oopung- 
newing. — Annawa's Home. — Hospitable Reception. — Close Sleeping-quarters. — 
Ten Persons in a Bed. — Morning Walk. — The Innuit Village. — Twer-puk-ju-a. 
— Sterry living with the Natives. — Miner. — Charming a Seal.. — Kokerjabin's Birth- 
place. — Kingaite. — Karmowong. — Author adopts Innuit Life. — Trip along the 
Coast. — The "Ice-foot." — Summer Resting-places of the Innuits. — Sundry Arti- 
cles belonging to a wrecked Ship. — Ee-vic-toon. — Native Monuments. — Grandeur 
of Kingaite Mountains. — The Grinnell Glacier. — A fatiguing Journey. — Disap- 
pointed of a Night's Shelter. — Moonlight Traveling. — A poor Supper. — Thirst. — 
An impromptu Igloo. — A cold Bed. — Next Day's Journey. — Discover the Na- 
tives. — Sampson and his Family. — Kind Reception. — A Seal Hunt. — Feasting. — 
The Seal's Eyes given to youngest Child. — Knowledge coming to an Inquirer. — 
Tide entering the Igloos at Night. — Innuit Women's Mouths good Receptacles for 
cleansing Purposes. — Snow-storm. — Author accustomed to Innuit Food. — How it 
is eaten. — Seal's Brains and Entrails. — Author becomes an Angeko. — Return 
Journey. — Laughable Incident. — A tight Fit. — Curious Mountain Mark. — Abun- 
dance of Animal Life. — Arrival at Twerpukjua and at Annawa's. — An animated 
Sunday Picture. — Return on Foot to the Ship. — Arrival 25G 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Snow-blindness. — Month of May. — Ship released from her Ice-prison. — A spirited 
Scene. — Sledge-dogs at full Speed. — "Bob, "the Angeko. — Falling Igloos. — An- 
ecdote of Bob. — Terrific Encounter with a Bear. — A Toss in the Air. — A power- 
ful Innuit. — The aged Woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo. — Tookoolito Interpreter. — Im- 
portant Information. — Traditions relating to White Men very many Years ago. — 
Ships with many People had arrived. — Two Innuit Women taken away. — Five 
Innuits killed by White Men. — Five White Men among the Innuits. — Written 
History confirmed by Oral Tradition. — Barrow's History of Arctic Discoverv. — 
Relics of the White Men to be found.— Wood, Coal, Brick. Iron. — Innuits must 



CONTENTS. ix 

possess the Truth concerning Franklin's Expedition. — More Information. — The 
Dreaded Land. — Preparations for Summer Work. — Illness of Tookoolito. — Ex- 
ploration at Head of Field Bay. — Dangerous Traveling on the Ice. — Pools of 
Water formed. — Arrive on Land. — Extensive View. — A beautiful Grassy Plain. 
Comparison with Greenland. — Lands behind the Coast, at this Part, very fer- 
tile. — Reindeer numerous. — Itcturn to the Ship Page 278 

CHAPTER XVII. 
A successful Deer-hunt. — Venison. — Another Journey. — Se-ko-se-lar Innuits. — 
The Land Pass.— Magnificent Scenery. — Countess of Warwick Sound. — Impor- 
tant Discovery. — Piece of Brick. — Relic of Frobisher's Expedition. — Sledge-drive 
in a Snow-storm.— A Whirl in the Snow.— An involuntary Slide.— Value of a 
Compass. — Safe Arrival on Board. — Anniversary of Departure from Home. — 
State of the lee.— ".Man-traps."— The Whale Depot.— Plenty of fresh Meat. — 
Stranger Innnits arrive. — A startling Tale. — Two Boats of White Men land on 
the Coast. — First Idea concerning them. — After-knowledge of the Truth. — Loss 
of the English Store-ship Kitty. — The Locality of Sekoselar. — Innuit Informa- 
tion. — Head of Frobisber Bay. — Tradition of Parry's Voyage. — Old Innuits re- 
member visiting him. — Extract from bis Narrative. — Sekoselar Innnits dislike 
civilization Food. — "Barbarous Stuff." — Strange Dialect. — Physical Superiority 
of the Sekoselar Men 287 

CHAPTEE XVIII. 
Journey to the Unknown, or "Dreaded Land." — Slender Outfit. — Abundance of 
Seal-meat soon taken. — Bad Weather. — Sylvia Island. — Lupton Channel. — 
Jones's Tower. — A Butterfly. — Tupic Encampment. — Magnificent Iceberg. — 
Dine on raw Seal. — New Land. — Remarkable Gap. — Cape Daly. — Ilummocky 
Ice. — Ancient Piles of Stones. — Discover a new Channel. — Dr. Kane's Channel. 
— Immense number of Seals. — Great Slaughter. — Koodloo still fears the "Dreaded 
Land." — Charming a Seal. — Abundance of Animal Life. — Arrive at the extreme 
Land.— Ascend a high Mountain. — Ancient Monuments. — Extensive View. — 
Davis's Straits. — Frobisber Bay. — Meta Incognita. — Resolution Island, and high 
Land to the North. — Sudden appearance of a Steam-ship. — Disappointment. — 
Mount Warwick. — A Bear-hunt. — North Foreland. — Return Journey. — Mode 
of making Traces and Walrus Lines. — Note-bonk Lost. — Its Recovery. — Heavy 
Snow-storm. — Encamp on a large Island. — Ancient Dwellings of Innuits. — Rapid 
Journey back to the Ship. — Dangerous Traveling. — lee breaking np. — Safe ar- 
rival on Board. — Means of sustaining Life in these Regions 238 

CHAPTEE XIX. 

An Excursion to the Whaling De'put. — Passage across Field Bay. — Singular Mode 

of capturing Seals. — Chapel] Inlet. — Cross to Frobisber Bay.— Arrive at the 

Whaling l)e|«'.t. — A large and bustling Place. — Consultation as to Author's Plans. 

— Vain Hope of pursuing his Voyage. — Puto in Distress. — A Walk to "Bear 

Sound." — Great number of Pieces of Limestone. — Boat Trip to Bear Sound 

Velocity of the Tides. — Immense number of Ducks and Wild-fowl. — Eggs ob- 
tained in abundance. — "Ice Collars." — Natural Bridges of Ire. — Return to Res- 
cue Harbor. — Stop at French Read. — Corpse of John Brown still there, and un- 
molested.— Arrive on Board.— Fourth of July again.— Field Bay clearing of Ice. 
— Look-out Island. — Luxuriant Vegetation. — Mnsquitoes. — Ugnrng'e Influence 
and Character.— A Love Affair. — Little Ookoodlcar and the Outcast E-tu. — An 



X CONTENTS. 

unnatural Father. — -A Child left deserted on a solitary Island.— Procures Food 
by catching Partridges with his Hand. — Lives a Hermit Life for Months. — Is res- 
cued by chance Visitors.— Grows to Manhood shunned by all his Race save a few. 
— Ugarng's generous Protection Page 317 

CHAPTER XX. 

The Georye Henri/ free from her icy Prison. — Dog " Smile" capturing a Seal, — Fresh 
Fish caught. — Another Trip to the Whaling De'pOt. — Immense Flocks of Ducks. 
— Large Shoals of Walrus. — A Walrus-attack on the Boat. — Islands in Frobisher 
Bay. — Innuit Diseases. — Consumption. — Sharkey's Wife. — " Las-as-ses.'.' — Iu- 
nuit love for Sweets. — Return Trip through Lupton Channel. — French Head 
again. — Corpse of John Brown gone. — All the Ice disappeared. — Great Heat. — 
Traveling over broken Ice. — Dangerous Leaps. — The Rescue's Ghost. — Supersti- 
tion of Sailors. — Ice-floes pressing on the Ship. — Great Danger. — The "Ghost" 
again appears. — Author's attempt to form a Vocabulary. — Aid of Tookoolito. — 
The Innuits fast passing away. — Return of all the Crew from Whaling Depot. — 
JIate Rogers. — Incidents of his Trip up the Bay. — Serious Illness of some Iumiits. 
— Starvation. — A good Harbor. — Eating Ducks raw. — Arrival on Board. — Au- 
thor's Plans for exploring. — Leaves the Ship. — Takes up his Abode with the Na- 
tives. — The Georye Henri/ departs. — Author's Visit to the Rescue's Hull. — Arctic 
Robins. — Unexpected Return of the Ship. — Ebierbing sick. — Jennie, the Angeko. 
— Practice of Ankooting. — Philosophy of the Operation. — Opening for Missionary 
Enterprise. — Pemmican, best Mode of preparing it. — Author Visits the Ship. — 
Returns to Whale Island. — Ankooting again. — Solemnity of the Company pres- 
ent. — Superstition. — Nice Distinction as to what is Work. — Final Visit to the 
Ship. — Natives' Doubts removed. — Crew completed. — The Fashions. — Suzhi the * 
heaviest Innuit. — Preparations for the Boat A'oyage nearly made 332 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Departure on Boat-voyage to explore Frobisher Bay. — An Innuit Crew. Author 

the only White Man.— Arrives at Lupton Channel, and makes first Encampment. 
—Next Day's Journey.— Innuit Mode of drowning Ducks.— Joyousness of the 
Crew. — Passing through Bear Sound. — Visit the deserted Whaling Depot.— Sec- 
ond Encampment on Sharko. —Third Day's Trip.— A Bear-hunt in the Water.— 
Author's narrow Escape.— Land on Oopungnewing.— Musquitocs again.— Visit 
Niountelik.— Explore the Island.— Important Discovery.— "Sea-coal !"— Proof 
of Frohisher's Expedition having visited here.— Joy of the Author.— Corroborative 
Testimony of Innuits from Tradition.— Carefully examine a Deposit of Coal.— 
Return to Oopungnewing.— Great Feast on the Bear.— Innuit Customs.— Bear's 
Bladder and Charms.— Polar Bear's Liver poisonous o\-,2 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Chewing old Boots.— Formation of Icebergs.— Innuits good Anatomists.— Proceed 
on the Voyage.— Koojesse draughting the Coast.— Sarah G.'s Cape.— Iron Isl- 
and.— Arrive at Jones's Cape.— A Settlement of Innuits.— Native Monuments.— 
Dental Mill for trying out Oil.— Blowing a Gale.— Danger to the Boat.— Arrive 
at Ming-u-toon.— Next Day's Trip.— Great Rise and Fall of Tides.— Boat nearly 
aground. — Encamp on an Island. — Bones of the Whale and other Animals. — A 
Grave. — Renew the Voyage. — A Mill-race of AVnters. — An exciting Time. — La- 
borious and difficult Work.— Beautiful Weather. — Arrive at Waddell Bay and 
make seventh Encampment. — Depart again. — Meeting with old Artarkparu. — A 



CONTENTS. xi 

persevering ami industrious Cripple. — Proceed toward his Village. — Annawa and 

other Natives there. — Women busily engaged sewing skills. — Nursing a big Boy. 
— A good Feast. — .More information about Probisher's Expedition. — Continue the 
Voyage. — Numerous Islands. — Eighth Encampment. — Ascend a Mountain. — Re- 
markable Features about it. — Large Caverns. — Huge Bocks ready to Fall. — The 
Aurora. — Curious Phenomena Page OGti 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Leave eighth Encampment. — Seals. — Meeting Innuits. — Make ninth Encampment 
on Kae's Point. — A Seal-feast. — Reindeer Moss abundant. — More traditional 
History. — Start on Voyage again. — A two-mile Walk over Rocks. — Jack the 
Angeko. — Ankooting Tweroong. — The. two Boats and two Kias. — Picturesque 
appearance of the Women Rowers. — The Flag of the Free. — Tenth Encampment. 
— Icebergs on the Rocks. — Renew the Voyage. — Visit the Island Frobisher's Far- 
thest. — The great Gateway. — President's Seat. — Beautiful and warm Day. — 
Fine Scenery. — Make eleventh Encampment. — Morning Walk. — Abundance of 
Game. — Seals and Reindeer in abundance. — The Roar of a Cataract. — Waters 
alive with Salmon. — Discover the Termination of Frobisher Bay. — Enter an Es- 
tuary. — Make Landing. — A Lcming. — Tweroong sketches Kingaite Coast. — Rein- 
deer Skins for Clothing. — Luxuriant Fields. — Reindeer Tallow good. — A pedes- 
trian Excursion. — Innuit Monument. — Ancient Dwellings.— Sylvia Grinnell River. 
— A Pack of Wolves. — Glories of the calm clear Night. — Aurora again. — A Land 
abounding with Reindeer. — Blueberries. — Method of taking Salmon. — Bow ami 
Arrows 883 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Prepare to leave twelfth Encampment. — Proceed on the Voyage. — Passing along 
Head of Frobisher Bay. — Peale Point. — Bishop's Island. — Land on Kingaite, ami 
make thirteenth Encampment. — Author ascends a Mountain. — The "Stars and 
Stripes." — A new Country. — Night at the Camp. — Sunlight on the Mountains. — 
Talk with sick Tweroong.— The Bible. — Innuit Ideas of Heaven and Hell. — Fog- 
gy Day. — Aggoun. — Not a Tuktoo, but a Goose. — Vexatious Delays.— Fourteenth 
Eucampment. — A Day of Trials and Discoveries. — Arrive at West side Bead of 
Frobisher Bay. — Jordan's River. — Hazard's Banks. — Explore the new Land. — 
Beautiful Cascade. — Extensive and verdant Plains. — Brent Geese. — Silliman's 
Fossil Mount. — Romantic Pass, the Great Gateway. — A white Whale. — An Innu- 
it's ill Humor. — His savage Attack on his Wife. — Another Walk to the Falls. — 
Picturesque Scenery. — Greenwood's Laud. — Reindeer. — Start on Excursion to the 
Great Gateway. — Bad Weather. — Arctic Owl. — Fossils. — Author sick. — Kind 
Attention of Tweroong. — Dish of Salmon. — Laughable Incident. — Koomuk and 
Pepper. — Another Excursion. — Visit to Silliman's Fossil Mount 397 

CHAPTER XXV. 
Departure from Greenwood Land. — Numerous Rocks. — Furious Tides. — Narrow 
Escape. — Preservation Island. — Beginning of Winter. — Ice forming. — Author's 
Illness. — Visits the principal Islands at Head of the Bay. — Koojesse a skillful 
Boatman. — Another critical Position. — Nearly wrecked. — Saved by the rising 
Tide. — Departure homeward. — The Kingaite Coast. — Boisterous Weather. — De- 
tained on a rugged Bland. — Renew the Voyage. — Difficulties with the Innuit 
Crew. — Freedom and Independence. — Land, and make eighteenth Encamp- 
ment .. 11- 



Xii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXVL 

Continue the Voyage. — Land on nn Island. — Inuuit Insolence. — Leave Kingaite 
Coast for the North Side of the Bay of Frobisher. — Arrive at nineteenth Encamp- 
ment. — Inuuit Superstition. — Extraordinary Scenes. — Singular Customs. — Twen- 
tieth Encampment. — Drinking Deer's Blood. — Twenty-first Encampment. — 
More Ankooting. — Mystical Songs. — "Fool's Gold." — Parting with old Too-loc- 
ka-ah. — Arrival at Niountclik. — Proceed to Kodlunarn, or " White Man's" Isl- 
and. — Important Discoveries. — Ship's Trench. — Ruins of Stone Houses. — Coal 
and Tile. — Return to Niountclik and encamp. — Next Day's Search. — Cruise in 
"Countess of Warwick Sound." — The American Flag again upraised. — Arrive 
at Tikkoon.— Discovery of a heavy Piece of Iron. — Passage across the Sound. — 
Strong Breeze. — Proceed up Victoria Bay. — Magnificent Scenery. — Precipitous 
Mountains. — A Cave. — A Seal floating on the Waters. — Ekkelezhun. — A fine and 
secure Harbor. — Discovery of several Tons of Coal and Flint-stones. — Return to 
Niountclik Page 421 

CHAPTER XXVII. 
A Storm. — Detained at Niountclik. — Examine the Island. — Another Deposit of 
Coal found. — Specimens collected. — Revisit Kodlunarn. — Minute Inspection. — 
More Relics found of Frobisher's Expedition. — A large Piece of Iron. — The 
"Ship's Trench." — Depart on return to Ship. — Twenty-sixth Encampment. — 
Revisit the Whaling De'pot. — Passage through Bear Sound. — Twenty-seventh and 
last Encampment by Lupton Channel. — Innuit Deposits of Food.— Good Faith 
and Honesty of the Natives toward each other. — Avoidance of the "Dreaded 
Land." — Last Day's Journey. — Arrive near Parker's Bay. — Anxiety and Excite- 
ment as to the Ship. — Gain Sight of her. — Arrival on Board. — All well! 43"> 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Visit the friendly Natives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — A Surprise. — Birth of a 
Son. — Artarkparu's Information. — More concerning Frobisher's Expedition. — A 
great Number of Innuits around the Ship. — They all concur in the traditionary 
History given to me. — Author's Anxiety to renew his Discoveries. — Another Boat- 
trip. — Cross the Bay to Chapell Inlet. — Camp for the Night. — Continue the Voy- 
age. — Bad Weather. — Heavy Gale. — Encamp once more. — Visit an Innuit De'pot 
of Food. — A severe Hurricane. — Boat-voyage abandoned. — Return to the Ship. — 
Capture of two Whales.- — A Man dangerously hurt by a Whale 442 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
The Anvil. — Preparations for returning Home. — Excursion to Bayard Taylor Pass. 
— Hard Climbing. — An extensive View. — The Ice Pack in Davis's Strait. — A 

rapid Descent. — Return to the Ship. — Startling Announcement of Captain B . 

— Another AVinter in the Ice. — General Gloom. — A bitter Disappointment. — How 
to live and keep Warm. — Innuit Simplicity regarding Money. — Author's Prop- 
osition concerning Stores 461 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Sick Mam-ma-yat-chc-ung immured in a living Tomb ! — The dying Woman lingers 

for Weeks, almost starving. — The Aurora Borealis. — A magnificent Display. — 

Strange Custom relating to new Mothers. — Nukertou's Grave. — More singular 

Customs. — A Talk with the Dead. — Presents to the Departed. — Life in the Win- 



CONTENTS. xiii 

ter. — Theatricals on Board. — Henry Smith, the "Negress." — Consternation of 
some of the Iiuniits on seeing a black Face. — Another Excursion. — A Winter 
Sledgc-jouruey. — Uhl Mother PetatO. — Novel Mode of warming the Feet. — .More 
traditionary Statements. — A great Feast. — Frozen Deer. — Deer's Paunch con- 
sidered delicious Food. — Return to the Ship. — Visit Tikkoon. — Tradition of n 
Shi]) built and masted Page 403 

CHAPTER XXXI. 
Movements of the Ship's Company. — Scarcity of Provisions. — A Man's Feet frozen 
Stiff. — Amputation necessary. — Dreadful Story of a Woman deserted. — Attempt 
to Rescue her. — The Attempt a Failure. — A perilous Situation. — A second Effort. 
— The Woman found dead. — Ebierbing at a Seal-hole. — Innuit Perseverance. — 
The Author's Plans 482 

CHAPTER XXXII. 
Commencement of Sledge Journey up Frobisher Bay. — Parting with Tookoolito. — 
Crossing the Pass. — Arrival at Oopungnewing. — Search for the "Anvil." — A 
Seal-feast. — A "Walrus limit. — Spearing the Walrus. — Building an Igloo. — In- 
nuit Puppies. — Arrival at Brewster Point. — A young Seal. — Unsuccessful At- 
tempt to catch the Mother.. — Trip up Newton's Fiord. — Out all Night. — An ex- 
tempore Igloo the fourth Encampment. — Dog Comforters. — Caught in a Storm. — 
Peril and Fatigue. — Safe Return to the fifth Encampment, same as the third 497 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Continue the Journey up Frobisher Bay. — Arrive at Beauty Bay. — The Sledge at- 
tacked by hungry Dogs. — Meeting with Friends. — Bereavement of old Allokce 
and his Wife. — Death of Tweroong. — Heart-rending Particulars. — A Seal-feast. 
— A sudden Excitement. — Strange A'isit of an Angeko. — Parting with Allokce. 
— Visit to the Grinnell Glacier. — Ascent by Polar Bear Tracks. — A Sea of Ice. — 
An exciting Journey back .".1 1 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Innuit Food. — Picture of a Dinner-party. — Rabbit-charming. — Proposed flyingTrip. 
— Freaks of Jennie. — Her Foot-race after the Sledge. — Feminine Coquetry. — 
Sharkey's Despair. — Change of Plans. — Koojesse's Ugliness — Final Adjustment 
of Plan. — Departure on flying Trip. — An Upset. — Wolves. — Chase of a Bear and 
Cub. — Capture of the latter. — Night Traveling. — Return to Place of Starting. — 
Set out for the Ship. — Arrive on Board ii'2'1 

CHAPTER XXXV. 
Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — They decide to Visit America. — More Frobisher Relics. 
— A Musket-ball. — Old ( tokijoxy Ninoo. — Interesting Conversation. — Her sketch 
of the Monument. — Innuit Superstition. — The Lock of Hair..— Sledge-journey 
alone. — Another Trip with Ebierbing. — Danger on the Ice. — Remains of Innuit 
subterranean Houses. — A critical Situation.— Boat-excursion to Countess of War- 
wick's Sound. — A large Traveling Company. — Kodlunarn again.— Fresh Discov- 
eries.— 'Another Voyage. — Sharkey's Monument. — Walrus Meat 642 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 
Revisit Victoria Bay.— Packed Ice setting in the Sound.— Detention and difficult Es- 
cape. — Return to the Whaling Depot.— Joyous News from the Ship. — All Hands 



x ; v CONTENTS. 

summoned on Board.— Great Excitement.— Adieu to Bear Sound, Lupton Chan- 
nel, and French Head. — Arrival on Board. — The Ship free from Ice. — Prepar- 
ations for Sailing. — Visit to Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — Their readiness to go 
to America.— August 9th, 1862, the Georye Henry lifts Anchor, and gets under 
way for Home. — Friendly Adieux to the Natives. — Once more at Sea. — First Sign 
of Civilization for twenty Months. — Newfoundland. — Pilot comes on Board. — 
First News of the War.— Kindly Reception at St. John's. — Arrival at New Lon- 
don. — Conclusion Page 55S 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

INNUIT OR ESQUIMAUX CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 
The Innuit Name.— Character of the People.— Their domestic Life.— Peculiar Cus- 
tom* concerning Women.— Social and political Life.— Theological Ideas.— Be- 
lief in a God.— The Angekos. — Mingumailo and his two Wives. —His Rage 
against Koojesse. — Superstitious Customs of the Innuits.— Customs connected 
with Hunting.— Innuit Christmas and New Year.— Innuit Language.— Innuit Cos- 
tume—Native Sagacity in studying Natural History.— Anecdotes of the Seal— 
of the Polar Bear. — Innuit Ingenuity.— Always ready in Emergencies.— Con- 
clusion • 56G 



APPENDIX. 

I. The Present of the Rescue Page 5S5 

II. Sums paid on Account of the Arctic Research Expedition 585 

III. Danish Currency 588 

IV. Pim-ma-in, or Chiefs „. 588 

V. Frobisher's Gold 588 

VI. The Wreck of the George Henry 588 

VII. Bob's Measurement 589 

VIII. Frobisher's Expeditions 589 

IX. The Loss of the Bark Kitty 593 

X. Mincralogical and Geological Specimens 594 

XI. Arctic Sledge 595 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Drawn by Chari.es Parsons, W. S. L. Jbwett, H. L. Stephens, Gkanvim.i: 
Perkins, and S. Eytixgk, after sketches by the Author, Photographs, anil 
from Implements and Clothing collected among the Esquimaux. 

1. CHART allotting Author's Track and Discoveries.. At Eiul of Volume. 

2. ESQUIMAUX IMPLEMENTS Titb-pwjc. 

3. TOOKOOUTO, C.P.HALL, AND EBI EBBING Frontispiece. 

4. Asi IBNT OF AH ICEBERG Page ST 

6. PORTRAIT OF KUDLAGO 40 

C. BURIAL OF KUDLAGO 43 

7. KUDLAGO'S MONUMENT 43 

3, I KEENLAND CURRENCY Hi 

9. GREENLAND WOMAN AND child CI 

10. FESTIVAL ON THE BIRTHDAY OF THE KING OF DENMARK G7 

11. DANCE ON BOARD THE "GEORGE HENRY" 73 

12. BOAT-SUMMERSET— ESQUIMAUX FEAT TS 

13. BELTED I' T.BERG 84 

14. GOTHIC ICEBERG SS 

16 DISTORTED MOON 7 

16. LAST SIGHT OF THE RUNAWAYS 03 

17. ICEBERG AND KIA 08 

is. PD?E SKETCH— CLARK'S HARBOR 100 

ID. STERRY'S TOWER 113 

20. FROBISHER BAY AND GRINNELL GLACIER HO 

21. ESQUIMAUX CHART, DRAWN BY KOOJESSE [28 

22. WRECK OF THE "RESCUE" AND OF THE EXPEDITION BOAT 1 '1 

23. EKKELUYUN— SALMON BAIT i.j; 

24. AURORA, NOVEMBER 23, I860 MS 

25. Af Ri )RA, DECEMBER 17, 1SC0 IB) 

20. NTKUJAR, Till: Bi IAT-STEERER AND PILOT 164 

2T. BONE SLEDGE-RUNNER V3 

!a BEAR-HUNT— TAPPING THE JUGULAR 174 

29. ESQUIMAUX STONE LAMP AND FIRE 175 

30. THE "GEORGE HENRY" IN WINTER QUARTERS 175 

31. THE DYING ESQUIMAUX NUKERTOU 100 

32. STORM-BOUND— ENCAMPED ON A FLOE US 

33. HEAD AND ANTLERS OF ARCTIC REINDEER 205 

34. SEALING IN THE WINTER 211 

85. BARBEKARK KILLING REINDEER 223 

88. -I HE LOST FOUND— FROZEN DEAD 

:.7. PARHELIA, OR MOCK BUNS 242 

88. ESQUIMA1 X AND SEAL-DOG 844 

(EORGE AND HIS DAUGHTER O.'.O 

IGLOOS, OR BNOW VILLAGE, AT OOPIJNGNEWIKG 

41. OODLOO, OR WOMAN'S KNIFE 

>XY NTNOO NARRATING TRADITIONS 277 

: I. OM THE TOP i>F SYLVIA ISLAND i 

II. ENCAMPMENT AT THE FOOT OF JONES'S TOWER 30' 

D OF OBI HER : | 

40. HOMEWARD BOUND, KB BREAKING UP 315 



Xvi ILLUSTRATIONS. 

•17. INNUIT STRATEGY To CAPTURE A 8EAI Page 319 

K SCALING AN ICE COLLAR IN BEAR SOUND 320 

49. DOG CAPTURING A SEAI 333 

60. FRENCH HEAD 330 

61. THE GHOST Of Till: "RESCUE" 339 

53. PASSING THROUGH l.UPToN CHANNEL 355 

63. WOUNDED NINOO TOWING Ills CARCASS 359 

.'4. DISCOVERY i>l' FROOISHER RELICS, AUGUST 11,1801 303 

65. SL/.IIl'S BOOT MILLING 309 

50. INNUIT MONUMENT AT TOONGWINE 372 

57. INNUIT SUMMER VILLAGE 377 

58. VIEW AT CAPE STEVENS AND WARD'S INLET '.. 379 

511. TUNUKDERLIEN, WIFE OF KOOJESSE 382 

60. ICEBERGS ON Till'. ROCKS— GREAT FALL OF TIDE 38T 

CI. ESTUARY OF SYLVIA GRIN NELL RIVER, FROBISHER BAY 3S9 

03. LANDING FOR NIGHT'S ENCAMPMENT 399 

03. RAISING THE AMERICAN FLAG 400 

04. SILLIMAN'S FOSSIL MOUNT 410 

05. A DESPERATE PILL 414 

00. FROBISHER'S GOLD MINE OK TRENCH 427 

G7. BOAT IN A STORM 431 

OS. ONE OF FROBISHER'S GOLD PROOFS 437 

69. FROBISHER RELICS IN STOCKING 438 

70. OOMIEN, OR WOMAN'S BOAT 450 

71. WOODEN MODELS OF FROBISHER'S ANVIL 452 

72. TALLOW MODEL OF FROBISHER'S ANVIL 453 

73. FIELD BAY AND DAVIS'S STRAIT 455 

74. AURORA SEEN AT FIELD BAY', NOVEMBER 2, 1S01 464 

7.".. AURORA AND METEOR OF OCTOBER 13, I860 405 

70. PLAYING THE KEELOUN 409 

77. THE HEIGHT OF HOSPITALITY 474 

75. CIVILIZATION SLEDGE 4S1 

79. SEEKING THE LOST VILLAGE 490 

SO. SHE MOVED NOT, SHE ANSWERED NOT 491 

81. EBIERBING AWAITING A SEAL'S " BLOW" 4110 

83. HARPOONING A WALRUS 501 

S3. II ALL ON HIS EXPLORING EXPEDITION 5114 

81 THE RETURN FROM NEWTON'S FIORD 510 

85. WE MUST CONQUER OR STARVE 512 

SG. ARM OF THE GP.INNELL GLACIER 517 

87. SLEDGE-LOG, LINE, AND REEL 531 

S3. TERMINATION OF W'ARD'S INLET 530 

59. THE HUNGRY WOLVES 530 

90. THE BEAR-HUNT 532 

91. YOUNG POLAR COMING TO THE POINT 534 

92. HALL AND EXPEDITION CROSSING FROBISHER BAY 535 

93. WALRUS SKULL AND TUSKS 541 

94. FACSIMILE OF SKETCH BY OOKIJOXY' NINOO 545 

•J.'.. MONUMENTAL ISLAND OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN 549 

HO. GATHERING FROBISHER RELICS, JULY, 1803 551 

97. FROBISHER RELICS 652 

95. ESCAPE OVER DRIFTING PACK: LAST SIGHTS 500 

99. FAREWELL, INNUITS 80S 

100. SECTIONAL VIEW OF SEAL HOLE AND IGLOO 57S 

101. ESQUIMAUX WATCHING AT SEAL IGLOO 579 

in.'. BEAR KILLING WALRUS 881 

lii3. ESQUIMAUX CHART, DRAWN BY' KOOPEKNEUNG 5S3 



INTRODUCTION. 



As this book is to be a work of narrative and adventure, and 
not one of argument and discussion, I shall touch but very lightly 
upon those subjects -which might lead to the latter, while I en- 
deavor to give as much variety and as much fullness of detail as 
possible to the former. 

That argument and discussion may arise from portions of what 
I advance is very probable ; but, if so, it will be better to enter 
upon such in another form than this. Eeaders very naturally ex- 
pect to be entertained, as well as, perchance, instructed in what a 
voyager or traveler puts before them. Long, prosy dissertations 
are seldom wanted. All that most people require is a truthful 
report of personal doings in strange lands, and a faithful record 
of incidents, discoveries, and interesting events connected with 
them. 

Such, then, is the task I have taken in hand, with the hope that 
a ready excuse will be granted for all those imperfections neces- 
sarily consequent upon the mode and manner of my carrying on 
the work in which I was engaged. I pledge myself as to the lit- 
eral accuracy of what I state, and my readers will be able to see, 
as they move onward with me through my narrative, how diffi- 
cult it was — alone, and with no other pair of hands, no other mind, 
no other thought, sense, or perception but my own — to record, day 
by day, the occurrences that came under my eye. 

In addition to this, I had to make all the observations — scien- 
tific, geographical, and otherwise — by myself, and this, too, with a 
knowledge self-acquired, and with instruments so few, and most of 
them so imperfect, till rectified by myself, that my labors were in- 
creased many fold. Thusfin the following pages, let truth, varie- 
ty of incident, and a faithful report of discovery and adventure 
be alone expected. Elegance of style and diction must not be 
sought for. 

As it will be well to avoid, as much as possible, breaking in 
upon the thread of my narrative elsewhere, I here give some par- 

B 



xviii INTRODUCTION. 

ticulars as to the cause of my embarking on a voyage to the Arc- 
tic Seas. 

It is -well known that, for many years past, the whole civilized 
•world has had its interest much attracted toward the polar re- 
gions. in consequence of the lamentable fate of the Franklin Ex- 
pedition. The labors of Great Britain to discover what had be- 
come of her lost children, and the sums of money devoted to that 
purpose (no less than £2,000,000 sterling), stand unparalleled in 
past history. Nor was America behindhand in the generous and 
humane work. That the missing navigators belonged not to our 
own beloved land made no difference. The one general feeling 
was the same with reference to a desire for participating in the 
search after those who, having periled themselves in devotion to 
science and the good of mankind, had become as brothers to us 
all. Hence the banner of Columbia — the glorious stars and 
stripes — floated to the breeze of an arctic clime, side by side with 
England's proud flag, in the noble errand of humanity, for which 
a goodly fleet of some twenty vessels had been sent forth ! Of 
the many bright names already chronicled for their generous 
deeds in connection with those arctic explorations, need I say that 
none stand more conspicuous than that of Henry Grinnell ? "What 
he and others have done is so familiar to all men who know any 
thing of this matter, that I need not recapitulate what has been so 
often told ; but I can not let pass the mention of that one name 
here without expressing the warm emotions of my own heart. 
Henry Grinnell has been to me, as he has shown himself to all 
who were at work in the Franklin search, a true and noble friend. 
To him I feel more than ordinarily indebted. He not only help- 
ed me in my undertaking, but he has cheered me on, and spoken 
words of comfort and bright hope when my soul was often nearly 
overwhelmed. The memory of his generous kindness frequcntly 
sustained and helped to invigorate me anew when wearied and 
exhausted in the wild regions I have lately been exploring. May 
every blessing, therefore, attend him and his, is my earnest and 
grateful prayer. 

As to the search for Franklin and his brave comrades, who has 
not heard of its fruitless result? Money and means expended 
without success ! Large ships and small ships, in magnificent ex- 
peditions, sent out vainly as to the recovery of those lost ! True, 
some discoveries were made, and certain relics and information 
brought to England by Dr. Piae in 1854, which gave a clew as to 



INTRODUCTION. 



vi-y 



where the missing navigators could have been found; but not 
until Captain M'Clintock, of the British Navy, in the spring of 
1859, visited Boothia and King William's Land, was any thing 
for certain known. Then, at last, we were positively assured of 
the locality where these martyrs to science had been, when, as a 
discovered document proved, the ships were abandoned and the 
majority of the crews had taken to the shore. This occurred in 
April, 181S, and 105 men, as we are told, under command of Cap- 
tains Crozier and Fitzjames, landed at a given spot, with a view 
of making their escape, if possible, toward their native home. 
What became of them, except two skeletons found in a boat, and 
one other near the beach, has not yet been known. Supposition 
alone has induced the world to believe them all dead ; and, de- 
spite proof upon proof, from facts, experience, and sound logical 
reasoning to the contrary, the government of England, and Brit- 
ish naval officials, with some eminent exceptions, have discarded 
all idea of farther search, though the truth could now so easily be 
obtained, and the ground to explore so small and comparatively 
so easy of access ! 

I will not trouble the reader now with my reasons for making 
these statements, based, as they are, upon some years of careful 
study and examination of all that has been said and written upon 
the subject Let me here briefly mention why I myself, with no 
previous experience, and no past history of my own to help me, 
took it up as I have done. 

In one word, then, it seemed to me as if I had been called, if I 
may so speak, to try and do the work. My heart felt sore at the 
thought of so great a mystery in connection with any of our fel- 
low-creatures, especially akin to ourselves, yet remaining un- 
solved. Why could not their true fate be ascertained ? Why 
should not attempts be made, again and again, until the whole 
facts were properly known. Captain (now Sir F. L.) M'Clintock, 
in 1857-9, had gone forth once more to seek for some elucida- 
tion of this mystery, but still I felt that something more might 
yet be attempted toward co-operating with that brave officer. It 
was already known that his vessel, the Fox, had been caught in 
the ice and delayed a whole year. It was possible that she might 
still not be able to get through to her destination, and therefore I 
fancied the work could be more effectually done by an independ- 
ent expedition proceeding in some other direction, afterward to 
join with M'Clintock, if need be, in his task. Accordingly, I con- 



xs INTRODUCTION. 

ceived an idea that perhaps the British government would lend, 
for a new American expedition, the arctic ship " Resolute," which, 
having been abandoned in the ice, had drifted out, and was pick- 
ed up in 1855 by Captain James Budington, of New London, 
who brought her to the States, where she was completely refit- 
ted at our national expense, and returned as a generous gift, in 
amity and good will, to England. 1 I had heard that she was after- 
ward dismantled and laid up as a hulk in the River Medway, and 
I thought it possible she might now be loaned to us for another 
attempt to be made under the American flag. A printed petition 
to the British authorities was gotten up and signed by S. P. Chase 
(then Governor pf Ohio), TJ. S. Senator George Pugh, and SLoyor 
Bishop, of Cincinnati ; but, before other names were attached to 
send it to England, M'Clintock returned with news of what he 
had discovered. "What this -was the civilized world is well ac- 
quainted with. He had obtained a few facts, but still left the 
matter very mysterious ! That it could have been otherwise was 
almost impossible by such a hurried and cursory examination of 
the ground as he made in spring, when the land is clothed in 
its winter's dress. Nor could he obtain much knowledge of the 
truth by a few casual interviews with detached parties of Esqui- 
maux, through an interpreter who he himself says "did not well 
understand them." No ; neither M'Clintock nor any other civ- 
ilized person has yet been able to ascertain the facts. But, 
though no civilized persons knew the truth, it was clear to me 
that the Esquimaux were aware of it, only it required peculiar 
tact and much time to induce them to make it known. More- 
over, I felt convinced that survivors might yet be found ; and 
again I said to myself, Since England has abandoned the field (I 
di 1 not then know there were any fresh efforts in that country 
10 renew the search), let one, an humble citizen of the United 
States, try to give to the Stars and Stripes the glory of still con- 
tinuing it, and perchance succeed in accomplishing the work. 
Accordingly, after mature consideration, I determined to make 
the effort. But how? what were my means? what the facilities 
for reaching the coveted goal of my ambition ? Cincinnati, where 
I then resided, was in a highly civilized part of the world, where 
ready transit from one place to another could be obtained ; King 
William's Land, where I wanted to go, was in the uncivilized and 
distant regions of the frozen North ! "What was I to do ? give it 
up ? Perhaps many would say, as some did say, Yes, what have 



1NTKODUCTI0X. X.\i 

you to do with it? why does it concern you? Away with the 
idea! But not so; my convictions were strong, and I could not 
resist the desire upon me. I determined, therefore, to try ; and, 
first of all, get what means were in my power, then find a way. 
Many before me bad accomplished much in the world upon as 
slight a foundation as that of mine. "What, then, was to hinder 
my making the attempt ? Courage and resolution were all that I 
needed; and though some persons might not concur in the wis- 
dom or prudence of my effort, still, as my mind was upon it, try 
it I would, and try it I did. 

I need not enter upon all the many difficulties I encountered. 
These fall to the lot of every man who essays to try his hand at 
something new, and especially so if he starts on a path trodden 
without success before him. But difficulties sharpen the wit and 
strengthen the mind. The experience of my native land was be- 
fore me in proof of what man could accomplish ; and I can now 
safely say that, though the obstacles in my way were many and 
great, I finally succeeded in overcoming them. How I surmount- 
ed those difficulties and started upon my voyage can not be told 
at any length here. Suffice it that I began in Cincinnati by men- 
tioning my hopes and wishes, and laying my plans before several 
of the leading men and other persons well known in that city. I 
also wrote a letter to Mr. George Peabod}', of London, stating that, 
in the event of my not succeeding in any other way to reach the 
arctic regions, I would attempt it overland by the great Fish 
Biver. This, however, was only an idea formed in case I could 
not get a ship of my own, or a conveyance in one by the sea 
route. 

On the 8th of February, 1860, I issued a circular (vide Ap- 
pendix), to which were attached upward of thirty signatures, 
and among them were the names of W. Dennison, Governor of 
Ohio; of the mayor, B, M. Bishop; of Miles Greenwood ; Senator 
Chase; several other persons of note.; and Thomas Hickey, who 
was with Kane on the second Grinnell Expedition. Mr. Hickey 
sent me a letter which, from its value as the opinion of one com- 
petent to judge, deserves notice. I here give an extract of it bear- 
ing upon my own ideas. He says: 

"During the residence of our party in the arctic regions we 
experienced many severe trials ; but, I must say, the major part 
of them emanated from our mode of living. When we lived as 
Esquimaux, we immediately recovered and enjoyed our usual 



xx ii INTRODUCTION. 

health. If Providence had so ordered it that we should not find 
our way back to civilization, but should cast our lot with Esqui- 
maux, I have no doubt we .would have lived perhaps quite as 
long, and in quite as good health, as in the United States or En- 
gland. Had we lost our commander, I confidently believe not 
one of our expedition would have returned. Our countrymen 
might have come to us, but we could not have gone to them. 
White men can live where Esquimaux can, and frequently where 
and when they can not. This I know by experience. * * * * 

"Little did I think, on returning to the United States with my 
companions and beloved commander, that I would ever again go 
to the north ; but believing, on my soul, from a practical life in 
the arctic regions, that you are right in entertaining the opinion 
that some of Sir John Franklin's men are yet to be found living ivith 
the Esquimaux, and that they should be rescued and restored to their 
country and friends, I hereb} r cheerfully offer my services, and vol- 
unteer as a member of the expedition you propose to organize. 

" For direct evidence of me, and my devotedness to this cause, 
I would refer you to the written works of him whose memory 
and name I almost worship — Dr. Kane." 

This confirmation of my views was exceedingly gratifying, but 
I had one sent to me which still more stamped upon my mind the 
truth of what I had surmised in respect to the Franklin Expedi- 
tion. It was from Henry Grinnell, Esq., of New York, and will 
be introduced farther on. 

After laying my plans before friends at Cincinnati, I at once 
started for the Eastern States, with a view of consulting men of 
experience in the arctic whale fishery, and also calling upon oth- 
er persons to whom I had letters of introduction. 

I stopped one day at Philadelphia, and visited Dr. Hayes, Mr. 
Eobert Kane, Mr. George Childs, and a few more ; then proceed- 
ed on to New York, where I was hospitably welcomed by Mr. 
Grinnell, who entered warmly into my views. 

On the 14th of February I went to New London, where I had 
an opportunity of meeting many experienced whaling captains, 
among whom was Captain S. A. Brown, who was very warm and 
kind in reference to my plans. Captain Christopher Chappel, who 
had passed a winter in Northumberland Inlet, likewise gave me 
great hope and encouragement. So did Mr. Thomas TV". Perkins, 
who alloyed me access to the logs of various voyages made in the 
arctic regions by vessels belonging to the late firm of Perkins and 



INTRODUCTION. xx iii 

Smith. But to Messrs. "Williams and Haven, upon whom I called 
when at New London, I am especially indebted. In every possi- 
ble way they tried to help me as to my plans ; and they most lib- 
erally tendered me the well-known schooner " Eescuc" (formerly 
of the first Grinnell Expedition) for $2000. 

I am also under great obligation to Mr. B. H. Chapell, of the 
same place, who then displayed — and has so ever since — an earn- 
estness in every thing connected with arctic research that com- 
mands my respect and esteem. 

Other persons that I called upon in New London were Captains 
Sisson, Tyson, Quayle, and S. 0. Budington, with whom I after- 
ward embarked on my voyage. Captain Budington had brought 
to this country an intelligent Esquimaux, named Kud-la-go, whom 
I afterward fortunately secured to accompany me as an inter- 
preter. 

At Groton I called upon an individual named "W". B. Sterry. 
He had been four voyages to the arctic regions, and spent three 
winters in Northumberland Inlet. I asked him, How long, at 
any one time, he had remained with the Esquimaux ? LTis reply 
was, Two months in the spring of 1855, thirty miles from the ves- 
sel, and with three families, consisting of about twenty individu- 
als, living in three or four huts. 

Sterry was able to give me a great deal of useful information, 
which all tended the more to confirm my views upon the subject 
of arctic exploration. 

From New London I returned to New York, where the great 
kindness of Mr. Grinnell, and the friendly attention of several oth- 
er well-known names, much encouraged me. Bromises of assist- 
ance were made, and donations tendered toward my expedition. 
Here, by invitation, on March 8th, 1860, 1 attended an informal 
meeting of the American Geographical and Statistical Society, to 
explain my views and intentions. At the meeting I gave a brief 
statement of my ideas on the subject of Franklin's Expedition, 
and argued upon the great probability of some survivors yet be- 
ing found. Soon after this, Messrs. Henry Grinnell, Miles Green- 
wood, and E. M. Bishop kindly became treasurers of the fund 
raising for my voyage, and it was now determined to adopt 
the following plan, which, I may here state, was the one I acted 
upon, so far as I could, throughout my whole undertaking. I 
give that plan as promulgated by me at the time. I said, " My 
object is to acquire personal knowledge of the language and life 



sx i v INTRODUCTION. 

of the Esquimaux, with a view thereafter to visit the Lands of 
King William, Boothia, and Victoria ; then endeavor, by person- 
al investigation, to determine more satisfactorily the fate of the 
105 companions of Sir John Franklin now known to have been 
living on the 25th day of April, 1848. 

" I take with me an Esquimaux interpreter, and during my so- 
journ in the arctic regions shall employ a crew of natives for the 
boat accompanying me. With these natives I purpose starting 
from Northumberland Inlet, and proceed up an arm of it that runs 
westward toward a lake not far from its extremity. This lake 
will be reached by crossing a small portage. I then shall traverse 
the lake to its western outlet, which, by Esquimaux report, is a 
navigable river emptying into Fox Channel. On arriving at 
" Fox's Farthest" (lat. 66° 50' N., long. 77° 05' W.), I shall, if prac- 
ticable, turn to the northward, proceeding on the east side of said 
channel to the Straits of " Fury and Hecla," thus uniting the dis- 
coveries of Fox in 1631 and Parry in 1821-3. 

" On completing this work I shall cross the strait to Igloolik 
(lat. 69° 20' p., long. 81° 53' W.), and try to establish friendly re- 
lations with the community of Esquimaux known to congregate 
at that point. I will there and then decide, by the circumstances, 
whether ' winter at Igloolik, return to Northumberland Inlet, or 
proceed soi hward on the east coast of Melville Peninsula to Win- 
ter Island, or to push my way directly westward across the Gulf 
of Boothia to Victoria Harbor. 

" During the winter and early spring, sledge-journeys will be 
undertaken with a view of acquiring a thorough knowledge of 
tke country. 

" When at Northumberland Inlet and other places, I shall care- 
fully examine into the facilities for traveling, so as to decide upon 
the most practicable course to pursue in my efforts to satisfactorily 
and truthfully determine the history of the Franklin Expedition. 

"To extend this undertaking to a favorable conclusion will re- 
quire the assistance of my fellow-countrymen. 

"This voyage is one I am about to make for the cause of hu- 
manity and science — for geographical discovery, and with the sole 
view of accomplishing good to mankind" 

Such was the statement I made of my views and intentions. 
Happily, I had strong confirmation of my opinions concerning the 
Franklin Expedition from Mr. Henry Grinnell, who gave me the 
following letter: 



INTRODUCTION. * xxv 

"New York, March 14, 18C0. 
"Mr. C. F.IIall: 

" Dear Sir, — Probably no one in this country is more desirous 
of arriving at the truth relative to the fate of Sir John Franklin 
and his party than myself. The fate of Franklin and some of his 
officers and men is known by the record found on King William's 
Land by Captain (now Sir F. L.) M'Clintock ; but the fate of 105 
members of Franklin's Expedition, living on the 25th day of 
April, 1848, and many other matters important to the history of 
that expedition, has yet to be determined. 

" I believe some of the 105 may yet be found habitants among 
the Esquimaux of Boothia, Victoria, or Prince Albert Lands. I 
farther believe that the graves of Franklin and some of his offi- 
cers and men, known to be dead, as well as the records of the ex- 
pedition and many important relics, will be found on King Wil- 
liam's Land, if search be made there in the months of Jul}', Au- 
gust, and September. 

" The course you propose to pursue is entirely a new and im- 
portant one, and I see not why, with the exercise of your best 
judgment, you may not ultimately accomplish all that could be 
desired in satisfactorily determining many of the unsettled ques- 
tions indicated above, as well as increasing our geographical 
knowledge of that portion of the arctic regions < er which you 
propose to pass. 

" You have my earnest wishes for the accomplishment of the 
noble object you have in view, and I will cheerfully contribute 
toward the requisite funds to carry it out. 

" With great regard, I am your friend, Hexry Grinnell." 

Shortly afterward, Messrs. Williams and Haven, of New Lon- 
don, sent me the following most kind and generous proposal : 

"As a testimony of our personal regard, and the interest wo 
feel in the proposed expedition, we will convey it and its required 
outfit, boats, sledges, provisions, instruments, etc., free of charge, 
in the barque George Henry, to Northumberland Inlet, and. when- 
ever desired, we will give the same free passage home in any 
of our ships." 

This generous offer relieved my mind of a great difficulty, and 
most gratefully I accepted their kind proposition. 

Having thus far succeeded in opening the way, I now gave di- 
rections for a suitable boat to be built. 



xxvi INTRODUCTION. 

Mr. G. W. Rogers, of New London, who had built the boats for 
the expeditions under De Haven, Kane, and Hartstene, was com- 
missioned to build mine. Its dimensions were as follows : length, 
28 feet; beam, 7 feet; depth, 29J inches; and thickness of her 
planking, which was of cedar, ^ths of an inch. In form she was 
similar to a whale-boat, drawing only eight inches of water when 
loaded with stores and a crew of six persons. She had one mast, 
on which a jib and mainsail could be carried ; a heavy awning 
to shelter the crew at night or when at rest; and the lockers 
for stores at each end were sufficiently large that a man could, if 
need be, comfortably sleep in either of them. Five oars, and all 
other essentials, formed a portion of her equipment. The sledge 
I took was made under my own eye in Cincinnati, as also a stock 
of pemmican. 

I now returned to the West for the purpose of settling my af- 
fairs and preparing for departure. 

The press gave friendly notice of my intentions ; and a circu- 
lar was issued by Mayor Bishop and Miles Greenwood, inviting 
my fellow-citizens to meet me at the Burnet House. This meet- 
ing took place on the 26th of April, and I was much gratified 
with its auspicious character. 

Soon after this (on May 10th) I bade adieu to my home and 
friends — to all of human ties that I held dearest to my heart, and 
departed for New York. Here I devoted the remaining time in 
various matters connected with my departure, constantly receiv- 
ing advice and assistance from Mr. Grinned. Finally, on Sat- 
urday evening, May 26th, I left for New London to join the 
George Henry. The funds for my expedition were, however, so 
low, that I found myself sadly deficient in many things that were 
almost absolutely necessary. But, at the last moment, when this 
was known to Mr. Grinnell, he unhesitatingly supplied the de- 
ficiency. 

On arriving at New London, I received many kind invitations 
from numerous friends I encountered there. Amon<r, others, I 
can not forbear alluding to a dinner given the day before my final 
departure by Mr. Haven (of the house of Williams & Haven), 
who, with his amiable family, extended every hospitality toward 
mc. On the occasion to which I refer, the viands were plentiful 
and good ; but Mrs. Haven uttered some graceful remark, wish- 
ing there had been longer time to have made a more abundant 
and richer display to welcome mc ; whereupon one of her young- 



INTRODUCTION. xxv i, 

est sons, a little lad, very intelligently said, "He guessed that 
where I was going to I might see the day when I should be glad 
to get as good!" Since then, how often and often have I called 
to mind that entertainment and young Master Haven's words, 
especially when obliged to eat scraps of raw walrus hide, whale- 
skin, the contents of walrus and reindeer paunches, etc., and some- 
times not able to get even that much to try and satisfy my crav- 
ing hunger! Frequently have I sat down and thought of my 
dinner at Mr. Haven's, vainly wishing that I could get, if it were, 
only the very poorest fragments of that Monday's feast. 

On the 29th of May, accompanied by Mr. Grinnell and several 
citizens of New London, among whom was Mayor Harris, I 
stepped from the wharf, amid a crowd of friendly spectators, 
and entered the boat that was to convey me on board. A few 
strokes of the oars, however, had only been made, when we re- 
turned at the voice of Mr. Haven hailing us. It was to give me 
a present, in the shape of a little book called "The Daily Food," 
which, though small in size, was great iu its real value, and which 
proved my solace and good companion in many a solitary and 
weary hour. 

Once more bidding adieu to all on shore, the boat swiftly car- 
ried me to the ship, where preparation was being made for depart- 
ure. In a few moments more the steam-tug was alongside, and 
we were towed out to sea. Then came the final moment of part- 
ing. The last farewell had to be uttered — the one word that was 
to sever me for many months, perhaps years, from my country, 
my home, my friends ! Never shall I forget the emotions I ex- 
perienced when the noble Grinnell came to take my hand and 
say, " Good-by ! God bless you !" Hardly could I respond to his 
kind and earnest expressions toward me and on my behalf. With 
warm but trembling utterance, this truly great and good man 
spoke of the brave old navigators, and those of our' own times, 
who had often dared the perils of unknown seas, relying on their 
own stout hearts, it is true, but depending more on the aid and 
support of a Supreme Power. He bade me ever do the same ; 
and, commending me to that MIGHTY Being, he once more, with 
moistened eye, said " Farewell !" and hastily embarked on the tug 
that was to convey the visitors on shore. 

The last link binding me to my own dear native land was now 
severed. The steamer cast off as we were passing Montauk Point, 
and then there arose one deafening shout from those on board, 



xxvm 



INTRODUCTION. 



when three loud cheers were given for the name of Henry Grin- 
nell ; and, as the echoes floated on the air, our good ship, now un- 
der sail, bore me rapidly away. Thus I left my country to try 
and accomplish that object upon which I had set my heart, name- 
ly, the solving of the yet unsettled mystery connected with the 
lost Feanklin Expedition. 

I may as well say here that, throughout my narrative, all references to the Ap- 
pendix will be noted by small numerals, indicating the explanatory notes. 





ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure. — " Rescue" Schooner. — Names of Crew. — Outfit. — Sea-sickness. — First 
Sight of Whales. — William Stcrry. — Banks of Newfoundland. — Storm at Sea. — 
"Sulphur Bottoms." — The first Iceberg. — Visit to one. — The Danish Brig Mari- 
ano. — Past Experiences of Scurvy. — Death and Burial of Kudlago. — Fourth of 
July at Sea. — Ilalibut and Codfish. — First Meeting with Esquimaux. — Native Pi- 
lots. — Ephraim's Pants. — Midnight Sun. — Arrival at Ilolsteinborg. 

It was on Tuesday, May 29th, 1860, that I departed from New- 
London, Conn., on my voyage in the barque George Henry. "We 
were accompanied by a tender, the Amaret schooner, .formerly the 
far-famed "Rescue" of arctic celebrity — a name that I intend to 
retain in speaking of her throughout my narrative. 

The officers and crews of these two vessels numbered in all 
twenty-nine persons; my expedition consisted of Kudlago and 
myself, thus making a total of thirty-one souls leaving New Lon- 
don. 

As I shall have frequent occasion to mention some of the ship's 
company by name, I here give a list of them and their rating on 
board. 

List of Officers and Crew. 



S. O. Budington Captain. 

Frank Rogers 1st Oflicer. 

A. J. Gardiner 2d " 

Reuben Lamb 3d " 

Robert Smith 4th " 

C.Kecney Boat-steercr. 

E.W.Morgan " 

A.Bailey " 

W.F.Roberts " 

W. R. Sterry... Blacksmith and Cooper. 

J. R. Hudson Steward. 

Geo. Beckwith Seaman. 

K. A. Comstock " 

H.Smith " 

A.S.Bradley " 



J. B. Neil * Seaman. 

J. Buckley " 

S. Willson " 

W.B.Russell " 

J.Gray " 

W.Stokes " 

W. Conley " 

W.Ellard " 

M. Silva " 

W.Johnson " 

J. Bruco " 

J. Antonio " 

F. Silva " 

J.Brown " 



30 AKCTIC RESEAKCH EXPEDITION. 

My outfit for this voyage,* and for the whole of my expedi- 
tion, consisted of 

The boat, already described ; 1 sledge ; i ton of pemmican ; 200 lbs. Borden's 
meat biscuit; 20 lbs. "Cincinnati cracklings" — pork scraps; 1 lb. preserved quince ; 
1 lb. preserved peaches ; 250 lbs. powder ; a quantity of ball, shot, and percussion 
caps ; 1 rifle ; G double-barreled guns, covers, and extra fittings ; one Colt's revolver 
complete ; glass beads, a quantity of needles, etc., for presents to the natives ; 2 
dozen pocket knives and choppers ; some tin-ware, 1 axe, 2 picks, files, etc. ; a 
good supply of tobacco and pipes ; wearing apparel for self, and red shirts for pres- 
ents ; a supply of stationery and journal books, etc. ; 1 common watch ; 1 opera- 
glass ; 1 spy-glass ; 1 common sextant and 1 pocket sextant ; 1 artificial horizon, 
with extra glass and mercury; 1 azimuth compass; 1 common compass; 2 pocket 
compasses ; 3 ordinary thermometers and two self-registering ones. Some naviga- 
tion books and several arctic works, with my Bible and a few other volumes, formed 
my library. 

This list, with a few sundries, constituted all the means and ma- 
terial I had to carry out the great undertaking my mind had led 
me to embark in. How far I accomplished aught commensurate 
with the ideas I had formed, let the sequel show ; but, even had 
I wholly failed, assuredly it would have been excusable under 
such circumstances. 

With regard to myself personalty, now that the excitement of 
preparation was over, and I had time to think more and more of 
my task, a reaction took place, which produced that depression of 
mind always to be found in similar cases. This was soon in- 
creased by the horrible sensation of sea-sickness which I experi- 
enced for several days after our departure. What my feelings 
were may be judged by the following extracts from an irregular 
diary, the only work I could at that time perform. Writing on 
the fifth day out, I find myself saying, 

" More miserable days than these past few have been to me it 
would be difficult to imagine. And why ? Because of sickness 
— sea-sickness. And what is sea-sickness ? Can any one tell un- 
less they have experienced it? I imagine not; nor, perhaps, can 
many describe it who have come under its infliction. I know- 
that I can not well do so. I have felt myself swung, tumbled, 
jammed, knocked, struck, rocked, turned, skewed, slewed, warped, 
pitched forward and backward, tossed up and down, down and 
up, this way and that way, round and round, crossways and kit-a- 
cornered, in every possible manner. On the ocean, fresh from 
civilized life, this may be called sea-sickness, but elsewhere I should 
* For particulars, see Appendix, No. 2. 



SEA-SICKNESS. 31 

term it next to a torturous death ! No more terrible experience- 
can a man have of life upon the broad waters than his first few 
days at sea when thus attacked." 

Again, at a later date I lind, "A miserable time I have had of 
it — ill nearly since we left; and now, as I write, my head is like 
a mountain of solid rock. Sea-sickness is really too bad, especial- 
ly after eating, or trying to eat, a good dinner." 

An ancient philosopher, on reviewing his work at the end of 
each day, and finding no special good accpaired or accomplished, 
used to write down in his diary, "Perdkli diem" — I have lost a 
day. Alas for me, I had to repeat that in my journal for twelve 
days ! It is true that several times I recorded the temperature 
of the air and sea, the state of the barometer, and made various 
other observations whenever the weather would permit, but, nev- 
ertheless, so powerless did I feel for mental or bodily work, that 
at the end of each clay I felt compelled to enter down as a sad 
but truthful fact, "Perdidi diem." At length I quite recovered, 
and on the 9th of June, for the first time since leaving port, I felt 
as a man should feel, once more strong and capable of any exer- 
tion. I soon began to classify my labors, devoting so manj^ hours 
to reading, to study, to writing, exercise, reflection, and sleep. As 
my buoyancy of spirits arose, and I watched the good shij) bound- 
ing on her way over the sparkling waters, every thing seemed 
full of life and animation. The Giver of all good was supreme 
upon the blue ocean as He was upon the shore. Even the "Moth- 
er Cary's chickens" — the little stormy petrel — sportively played 
about, no doubt happy in their way, as they danced up and down, 
slightly clipping the tips of their wings in the uneven waves, and 
then hieing away to absent mates, that they might be brought to 
greet the passing ship. 

About a week after our departure, the cry was raised, There 
she blows ! there she blows ! and, hurrying on deck, I for the 
first time saw at a distance the blowing of whales. What this 
"blowing" was like may be described by asking if the reader has 
ever seen the smoke produced by the firing of an old-fashioned 
flint-lock? If so, then he may understand the appearance of the 
hloio of a whale — a flash in the pan, and all is over. I watched 
with eager interest this school of "fin-backs," numbering some 
twenty-five or thirty whales — a rare sight to see so many togeth- 
er. But they are not generally attacked, as they are difficult to 
capture, and yield but little oil. 



32 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

A day or two after this, a cry of Porpoises ! brought all hands 
ou deck; and here a circumstance occurred, which, though triv- 
ial iu itself, well serves to illustrate the unartificial character of 
one of the ship's company, the "William Sterry previously men- 
tioned. It is related in my Journal as follows : 

" Directly the porpoises were seen, Sterry, who has a genial 
heart and strong arm, took his position by the martingale, or, ris 
a Dane would call it, ' Dolphin Striker,' which is under the bow- 
sprit. Harpoon in hand, there stood Sterry, prepared for a whale 
or aught else, ready for his blow. Now Sterry was Sterry — Sterry 
the cooper — Sterry the ship's carpenter — Sterry the ship's black- 
smith — Sterry the millwright — Sterry the genius — the immortal 
Sterry, who could eat more pork and beans, and drink more whis- 
ky out of a two-quart pantry pitcher, without distinguishing its 
smell and taste from pure cold water, than any other gentleman 
hailing from his native place of Groton. There indeed was Ster- 
ry, seemingly hanging between the heavens and the sea, his feet 
dangling on a tow line, and his hands grasping the martingale 
back-rope. While I stood watching him, his eyes appeared to 
roll in fire as they pierced the blue deep, especially so when he 
struck his head against the ' bobstay chains' in turning to look for 
the contrast between the porpoises beneath him and the jibboom 
above. And here I may add that Sterry was a great philosopher 
on ' contrasts,' pros and cons ; positives and negatives were with him 
the only 'hanimals that have souls worth saving.' "Well, there 
stood Sterry preparing to ' pucker,' and pucker he did. A strange 
sound, which arrested my attention, stole out of his mouth. 
Startled, I listened attentively, and found him actually whistling 
for the porpoises ! But no porpoise seemed to listen to his charm. 
Often did he poise his harpoon as his intended victim glided swift- 
ly through the waters beneath him, but as often did he have to 
drop it agaim At length the porpoises retired, and Sterry had 
to give up his game. 

" "When the attempt was over, I asked Captain B if Ster- 

ry's whistling really did any good, and the reply was, as I ex- 
pected, ' No, none whatever.' Sterry at the time was within hear- 
ing, and immediately said, ' Iguess-it-did-n't-do-much-of-any-harm- 
any-how-captain ;' and then, turning to me, added, ' Captain Hall' 
(so he always called me), ' I tell you what it is, Before you have 
been up North a great while, you'll find you've got to whistle as 
many whistles as there are species of /ianimals, birds, and fishes, 



MOVEMENTS OF TWO WILYLES. 33 

or you can never get along up there ; you can never capture such 
things unless you do whistle.' 

" ' But,' said I, ' please tell me, Mr. Stern-, what do you do when 
you see a ivhale ? ' Oh, then we always holkr,' was his quaint 
reply." 

I have mentioned this anecdote as characteristic of the man. 
He was frequently the life and soul of our party, and often I shall 
have occasion to allude to him. 

On the 12th, of June we passed through a fleet of codfishing 
schooners on the Banks of Newfoundland. Hundreds of boats 
were out, with a man in each, rapidly appearing and disappearing 
to our view as the fog, which was very thick, lifted, or as we 
neared them. 

The next day preparation wa3 made, and a close look-out kept 
for icebergs, the thermometer having fallen rapidly; but none were 
seen. Two whales, however, caused some interest in our vessel, 
and especially to myself. They were moving leisurely along in 
the same direction as the ship, and nearly under the bows. Every 
thirty seconds or so they came up to blow, and then sank beneath 
the water, leaving only a few feet above their backs. I saw them 
distinctly for several minutes, without cessation, thus propelling 
their vast bulk through the great deep. It was a most novel 
sight to me to see these two whales simultaneously gliding side 
by side, and even with the ship. Had they been a pair of naiads 
harnessed to the car of Neptune, they could not have been more 
uniform in their movements. They came up together, " blowed" 
together, and descended together. 

Meantime two boats were lowered, with a chosen crew, to give 
chase. Swiftly they shot toward their prey ; but the whales im- 
mediately altered their course, the boats following after them. 
For an hour was the chase continued ; but, in spite of all efforts, 
the whales escaped, and our disappointed comrades returned. 

For several days after this, nothing of note occurred worth nar- 
rating. A delicate snowbird lighted on the rigging, and, accord- 
ing to nautical ideas, was the augury of good luck. Other ma- 
rine birds and porpoises were seen, but there was little to relieve 
the monotony of our life except when the winds increased to a 
gale. Then, indeed, I found a change that in one respect I could 
admire. To myself, who had never before been upon the vast 
ocean, it was truly magnificent to behold the mighty workings of 
the great deep ! On one occasion, which I well remember, the sea 

C 



Si ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

appeared in "white caps," the bounding billows playing with us 
all day in fantastic gambols, while the ship plunged fearfully 
down into a deep abyss ; then, like a thing of life, would she leap 
skyward, as a mad wave struck the bow in all its fury, burying it 
beneath the sheet of spray, which flew far and wide in its impo- 
tent wrath. But the George Henry heeded it not. Like a lion 
shaking the dews of heaven from his mane, so did our good ship 
appear, bathed in crystal drops, but still driving on and on majes- 
tically. Rarely did I enjoy myself more than when those storms 
encountered us. It seemed to me as if no one could, to the full- 
est extent, appreciate the beauty, the grandeur, the greatness of 
God's creation but in experiencing a storm at sea. Watching it 
as I did, firmly wedged against the mast, with my arm encircling 
a cluster of ropes, I could keep my place, notwithstanding the 
vessel now and then would be on her beam-ends, or some fearful 
wave, overleaping the bulwarks, seek to take me away. And as 
I stood there, I could study Nature and Nature's God. As far 
as the eye could carry me, say for seven miles in every direction, 
making an area of over one hundred and fifty square miles, the 
ocean was dancing as if wild with joy. One moment it would 
seem as if a universal effort was being made by the waters to 
kiss the clouds ; in the next, diving low, low down, as if to hide 
their laugh, over the daring deed; then, as if to signify their un- 
willingness of my being so cool a spectator, the ship would be 
borne high up in their snowy arms, and all at once plunged quick- 
ly down into the bosom of the sea, covering myself and the decks 
with tons of briny water. 

On the 19th of June we were in lat. 51° 18' N., long. 49° 12' W., 
and here I give a few extracts from my diary to show my ideas 
and feelings at the time. 

"This day saw several of the largest size whales, Balcna Phy- 
salts, called 'sulphur-bottoms' by the whalers. It is indeed the 
king of fishes, though this term applies to the whale family in gen- 
eral ; but, being a very difficult kind to capture, whalers seldom 
ever venture in their chase. Less quiet and tranquil in its move- 
ments than the Mysticelus, or Greenland whale, it becomes furi- 
ous when wounded, and renders an approach to it dangerous. 
Its flight, when struck by the harpoon, is exceedingly rapid, and 
is so long sustained that it is very difficult — generally impossible 
— to tire it out. The game is not worth the cost and risk, for the 
blubber and bone of the Physalis are indifferent in quality and 



FIKST ICEBERG. 35 

quantity. I bad a fine view of these monsters of the deep, as they 
came within pistol-shot of the vessel. It was a grand sight to me 
to see a fish (is a whale a fish?) 100 feet long propelling itself 
quietly forward through the water as though it were but an hum- 
ble mountain trout. 

" June 20th, lat. 53° 9', long. 51° 16'. A good run, with a fair 
breeze since yesterday. Approaching the north axis of the earth ! 
Ay, nearing the goal of my fondest wishes. Every thing relating 
to the arctic zone is deeply interesting to me. I love the snows, 
the ices, icebergs, the fauna, and the flora of the North ! I love 
the circling sun, the long day, the arctic night, when the soul can 
commune with God in silent and reverential awe ! I am on a mis- 
sion of love. I feel to be in the performance of a duty I owe to 
mankind — myself— God ! Thus feeling, I am strong at heart, full 
of faith, ready to do or die in the cause I have espoused. 

"This evening the sun set about ten minutes to nine o'clock, 
but it was quite light at ten o'clock. 

" Thursday, June 21st. This morning, a few minutes after eight 
o'clock, I went upon deck to take my usual exercise. I noticed 
or felt a perceptible change in the temperature of the air. I look- 
ed at the thermometer and saw that it was falling. I tried the 
sea-water, and found that much colder also, being only two de- 
grees above freezing point. I immediately concluded that we 

were near icebergs, and mentioned it to Captain B , also to 

Sterry ; but, though the latter had been on several voyages to the 
arctic regions, and had spent four winters there, he doubted my 
ideas about it, especially when I ventured to predict we should 
see them within three hours. He said ' we should not,' and even 
laid a wager upon it; but at twelve o'clock the icebergs were 
really seen, and many of the old salts on board at once set me 
down as well up in arctic knowledge. 

"Directly the announcement was made I went on deck, and 
there, far away to the west, had m}' first view of an iceberg. By 
the aid of a good glass, presented by M'AUister & Brothers, 
of Philadelphia, the grandeur of this icy mountain of the deep 
was brought before me. Brief, however, was the glance I had. 
The motion of the vessel was such that I could not at first keep 
the iceberg within the field of the glass. But perhaps it was well 
I did not see all its splendor and magnificence at once. For years 
I had longed to see an iceberg, and, even in the distant view I 
then had, all my conceptions of its grandeur were more than real- 



36 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ized. "When first seen it was perhaps ten miles off, and appeared 
about 130 feet high, judging from a calculation made. As, to- 
ward evening, we approached, it appeared a mountain of alabaster 
resting calmly upon the bosom of the dark blue sea. Behind it 
was the setting sun just dipping its nether limb in the waters, 
while its upper reached some thick, heavy clouds extending 'half 
around the horizon, bathing them in a flood of crimson ! Close 
by, and peering out from a break in the sky, were Venus and 
the new moon, making a scene of sublimity and beauty fit for 
a poet's pen or the pencil of an artist. Not before ten o'clock 
P.M. were we alongside this magnificent pile of ice, and then, as 
it were, I had an opportunity of shaking hands with the first ice- 
berg I had ever seen. It is said that lovers like darkness better 
than light, and the hour named would seem to indicate that dark- 
ness was upon the face of the deep when I and my ' idol' met. 
But not so ; light abounded : not that of noonday, but that 
of early eve, when the sun had withdrawn his glowing face. 
Then it was we met. Iceberg was silent; I too was silent. I 
stood in the presence of God's work ! Its fashioning was that of 
the Great Architect ! He who hath builded such monuments, and 
cast them forth upon the waters of the sea, is God, and there can 
be none other !" 

After this, numerous icebergs were seen, one of which we pass- 
ed within a stone's throw. At a distance it had appeared of a 
pyramidal form, but on coming close its outline wholly changed. 
This I find to be a characteristic of most all views — of none more 
strikingly so than that of an iceberg. " Distance lends enchant- 
ment to the view," so goes the old saw, and, to a certain extent, 
this is true. 

But, on another occasion, I had a more minute inspection of one 
of these icy monsters of the deep. A large solitar}*- berg at one 
time was not far from us, and, as the weather permitted, a boat 
was sent in charge of the mate that I might have the opjDortumty 
of examining it. 

On arriving near, it was found of irregular form at the base, 
with several "tongues" or spreading pieces below the water. 
With some difficulty I got on to it at a sloping part, and began 
to mount toward the summit. Several pinnacles, ravines, gorges, 
and deep cavities were displayed as I ascended ; but decay was 
already making rapid progress, and evidently not long would 
elapse before the whole mass must fall to pieces. I succeeded, 



ASCENT OF AN ICEBERG. 



37 



however, in reaching the top without danger, using a boat-hook 
as a sort of alpenstock to aid me. 




A&CCNT OF AJ* ICEUEEO. 



Here resting a while, and, drinking in the ocean scene around, 
with our ship on the blue waters awaiting us, I then descended. 

On the way down I unfortunately trod on the rusty part of the 
boat-hook, and, having my boots off for surer footing, received 
a rather bad wound, which confined me to a couch for some 
days. 

Our progress toward Greenland was so tantalizingly slow, ow- 
ing to calms and head winds, that a fourth Sunday passed over 
us when still at a considerable distance from Holsteinborg, Green- 
land, the port of rendezvous of the George Henry and Rescue. 

Of these Sundays at sea, it gives me pleasure to speak in favor- 
able terms as to their observance on board. The crew exhibited 
most excellent demeanor; and as the George Henry had a small but 
carefully-selected library in the cabin, furnished by the house of 
Williams & Haven (owners of the vessel), good books were occa- 
sionally distributed by the captain among officers and men, much 
to their satisfaction, and, no doubt, advantage. 

Again referring to my Journal : 

"June 26th, at midnight, I witnessed a scene never to be for- 
gotten. I found the whole north illuminated — not by the aurora 
borealis — but by reflection of the sun's rays. The northern sky 
presented the appearance of a sunset perhaps twenty minutes 
over. I could hardly believe my eyes and my position as to 



38 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the points of the compass for some time. It did not seem that 
the morning sun could thus early be approaching in the east, nor 
did it seem that the brightening before me was either east or west. 
But I soon found the cause that so attracted my attention was 
the northern sun ! I was indeed delighted ; for, though familiar 
with the theory of our planetary system, yet I had little thought 
of the beauty and variety of sun scenes presented to the view of 
man between the latitudes of Cincinnati and that of 58i°, where 
we then were. 

" Early in the morning the captain came to my berth and call- 
ed me, saying that a sail was in sight, and that he was holding up 
for her. I was on deck in an instant with spy -glass in hand. All 
the men were on the alert, and every eye strained to discover 
what vessel it was. Our own colors were soon run up, and they 
were answered by the unknown showing the Danish flag. This 
immediately enlightened us, and we at once knew that the stran- 
ger was one of the government vessels of Denmark annually vis- 
iting Greenland. We laid-to for her, and, when she came near, 
ascertained her name to be the Mariane, from Copenhagen, bound 
to Disco. Our captain then sang out, ' What's your longitude ?' 
Whereupon the lusty old Dane hung over the brig's side a pon- 
derous ebony board, upon which was chalked in white '49° 20'.' 
Thus holding it a moment, we saw him turn his head broadside 
to us, and encircle his massive ear by his trumpet-shaped hand, 
as if to say, ' Now let us have 3'ours.' In stentorian voice, the 
answer was '53° 30'.' If a forty-pounder had been shot from 
the George Henry, the old Scandinavian commander could not 
have jumped higher than on this announcement. Then giving 
our ship to the glorious breeze that was dancing to do us service, 
away she bounded on her course. As long as we could see the 
Mariane of Copenhagen — a vessel bearing the royal F. B., 
wreathed by laurel branches, and crested bj r the imperial crown 
— she was still following in our wake." 

It may be as well here to mention that this Mariane was the 
identical vessel in which Dr. Kane and his party, after their mem- 
orable escape on the second Grinnell Expedition, took passage 
from Upernavik, intending to proceed home in her rid England. 
But, on touching at Goodhavn, Captain Hartstene, in the Belief 
Squadron, arrived in time to receive them, and thus prevented a 
longer voyage in the Danish brig. 

'■Fiiihaj, June 29th. During the night a smart breeze sprung up 



KUD-LA-GO. 39 

from the N.N.W., which now continues, doing us much service in 
putting us to the north. There is rain, and it is chilly ; but what 
of this to a determined soul? Oh, to be strong from the circum- 
stances ; to be excited by the powers of the mind ; to be inspired, 
as it were, by the divine Spirit, that I may continue to the end 
of life in my studies of Nature and her laws ! May I be strong 
iu the day of battle ; ma}- 1 not forget that I am a child of Deity 
— a humble instrument created for work ! 

"Saturday, June 30th. In a conversation with Captain B 

and his first officer, Mr. Eogers, this morning, I learned their views 
of the scurvy. They both understand the cause, the nature of 
it, and its cure. The former said he had gained his knowledge 
from dearly acquired experience. This is truly a fact, for in 
1855, while in command of the Gcorgiana, on a whaling vo}-age, 
he lost thirteen of his men by scurvy. But, said he, ' I am not 
afraid of losing any more men by scurvy while I have command 
over them. Whenever there are appearances of it aboard, I will 
have every pork and beef barrel — salt provision of every kind — 
headed up at once, and every man shall live upon bread and fresh 
provision, such as whale, walrus, seal, deer, bear, ptarmigan, duck, 
etc., etc' " 

Mr. Eogers stated that in 1856 he went on a whaling voyage to 
the South Sea, and that during the year scurvy broke out among 
the crew. Nine were seriously affected, and one died of it, all 
from eating salt provisions. Said he, " Those who had it seemed 
determined to die, for, against all reasoning and advice, they would 
have salt pork in preference to fresh game, such as ducks, eggs, 
etc., which they had in abundance." 

It may be here stated as a fact that the person who has the 
scurvy desires just that kind of food which he should not have, 
and, as a general rule, the same person affected will go almost any 
length to obtain it, notwithstanding he is well aware that death 
must follow in this contumacious course. 

I now approach a subject that, even at this present time, in 
dwelling upon it, affects me greatly. I allude to the death of 
Kudlago, which occurred on Sunday morning, the 1st of Jul}'. 
Hitherto I have said but little concerning him, owing to an inten- 
tion of confining my remarks to what I should have to narrate 
here. 

I have mentioned in the Introduction that he had been brought 
to the United States iu the previous fall, and when I first saw him 



40 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

he appeared to be, what I always found him, a remarkably mod- 
est aud unassuming man. From what I was then informed, he 
was quick to learn, and always endeavored to do as other people 
did. lie never expressed surprise at any thing. He looked upon 
the works of civilization with interest, but never with wonder. 
The first time he saw a locomotive no words escaped his lips, nor 
did he exhibit any signs but what were consistent with the idea 
of his having seen the same a thousand times before. One day, 
while riding in the cars toward New York, a boy passed through 
distributing circulars, giving one to Kudlago. He took it, look- 
ing attentively to see what others might do, and then, as they did, 
so, to all appearance, did he! Others held the circulars up before 
them and read. Kudlago held his up before his eyes and ap- 
peared to read. Though he could not read a word, yet he looked 
learned. Solomon may have been wiser, but surely not sharper 
than Kudlasro. 




Kl J'-I.A-l.n. 



On securing his services as my interpreter, I was in hopes that 
he would long remain with me ; but, though apparently in good 
health on leaving New London, the fogs we encountered when 
crossing the Banks of Newfoundland gave him a severe cold, and, 
though every attention was paid to him, he was evidcutly failing 
very fast. One day we shot an eider-duck, and lowered a boat 
to get it, purposely that Kudlago might have a generous meal 
in his accustomed way. The bird was skinned and carried to the 
poor sick Esquimaux, who dissected it at once, eating only the 
heart and liver, both raw. He seemed to relish it greatly, but 



BURIAL AT SEA. 41 

could eat no more. As he expressed a desire to be on deck, a 
tent was erected there, that he might enjoy the sunshine and 
the air. But nothing availed to save him. The following day- 
he was again taken below, and never again left his berth alive. 
He died about half past four on Sunday morning. His last words 
were, " Teik-ko se-ho? teifc-l-o se-ko?" — Do you see ice? do you 
see ice ? His prayer was that he might arrive home, and once 
more look upon his native land — its mountains, its snows, its ice 
— and upon his wife and his little ones; he would then ask no 
more of earth. "We had sighted the Labrador coast on our way, 
and after that we sailed several days without seeing ice. Kud- 
lago kept incessantly asking if we saw the ice, thinking, if so, we 
must be near to his home ; but, poor fellow, he was still far away 
when his final moments came. He died in lat. 63° 1ST., when near 
the coast of Greenland, and about 300 miles from his native 
place. 

Suitable preparations were soon made for his burial in the sea, 
and as I had always thought a " burial at sea" must be a scene of 
great interest, the one I now witnessed for the first time most 
strongly impressed itself upon me. Never did I participate more 
devoutly in what then seemed to me the most solemn scene of my 
life. There before us was the "sheeted dead," lying amidships 
on the gangway board, all in readiness for burial. The whole 
ship's company, save a solitary man at the wheel, had assembled 
in sorrowful silence around our departed friend, to pay the last 

respect we could to him. By the request of Captain B , 

who was bound by strong ties of friendship to Kudlago, I had 
consented to take an active part in the services. I therefore pro- 
ceeded to make such remarks as were deemed proper for the oc- 
casion. These were succeeded by my reading portions of appro- 
priate exhortations from the "Masonic Manual," after which I 
read a prayer from the same excellent work. In this all seemed 
deeply, solemnly interested. 

During these services the breezes of heaven were wafting us on 
— silently, yet speedily to the north. At a given signal from the 
captain, who was standing on my right, the man at the helm luff- 
ed the ship into the wind and deadened her headway. William 
Sterry and Robert Smith now stepped to the gangway, and hold- 
ing firmly the plank on which was the shrouded dead — a short 
pause, and down sank the mortal part of Kudlago, the noble Es- 
quimaux, into the deep grave — the abyss of the ocean ! Oh 



42 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



what a scene ! How solemn in its grandeur and its surround- 
ings! The Sabbath morning; a cloudless sky; the sua shining 
in all its glory; the cold, dark blue ocean, its heaving bosom 
whitened over, here and there, with high pinnacled bergs; the 




BUBUX "I KUDLAGO. 



lofty peaks of " Greenland's icy mountains" peering down from a 
distance in the east — these were some of the impressive features 
in the scene attending the burial of Kudlago at sea. 

An hour after the George Henry had been given to the leading 



KUD-LA-GO'S MONUMENT. 



43 



wind, I turned my eyes back to the ocean grave of Kudlago — a 

snow-white monument of 
mountain size, and of God's 
own fashioning, was ffi/er it! 
The next event of any 
importance to record was 
the celebration of our glori- 
ous Fourth of July. At 
that time we were in Da- 
vis's Straits, near a place 
called Suklcerloppen, in 
Greenland, under all sail 
for Holsteinborg, and we 
had been in great hopes to 
have arrived during the 
day, but contrary winds 
and calms had prevented 
us. As it was, we did the 
best we could, and tried 
to prove ourselves, as we 
knew all of us to be, true 
sons of our country. 

The day, commencing at 
the turn of the midnight 
hour, was ushered in by cheers and firing of guns. Pistols, guns, 
blunderbusses, were in readiness for the word that should make 
the mountains of old Greenland echo back our thunderings for 
FREEDOM AND OUR NATIVE LAND ! 

As the hour approached, several of us were stationed at vari- 
ous places, ready to discharge the weapons in our hands at com- 
mand. Twelve o'clock came, and the Fourth of July, 1860, was 
upon us. " One ! two ! ! three ! ! ! Fire ! ! ! !" was the signal ; and 
never did the George Henry quiver more under the peal of deep- 
throated guns, in a noble cause, than on that occasion. After 
this the jubilee was continued by firing, and cheers on cheers. 
The national colors were run up (for it was now broad daylight) 
and saluted. At noon another salute was given, and again twelve 
hours afterward, when the next midnight proclaimed that anoth- 
er anniversary of our glorious American freedom had again de- 
parted. 

But we had other causes of rejoicing on this especial day. At 




KUD-LA-GO'8 MONUMENT. 



44 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

five in the evening we bad arrived at a point on the coast of 
Greenland which was very much like the neighborhood of Hoi - 
steinborg. The bold mountain peaks were so thickly enveloped 
in clouds that it was impossible to determine the exact locality. 
The sea also was covered with fog ; hence it was wisely determ- 
ined to run off the land for the night and lie-to. This was done, 
and as we were upon good codfish banks, lines were put over to 
catch some. We were very successful. Before twelve o'clock 
three lines had drawn in full 800 lbs. of halibut and codfish, the 
latter largely predominating. I myself caught four cod weighing 
in all 100 lbs. One halibut weighed no less than 125 lbs., and 
two others fifty pounds each ! I was astonished at the sight of 
every cod drawn in. Such gormandizers had they been — preying 
upon the smaller ones of their kind — that their stomachs were 
distended to the utmost limit of expansion. 

The next day, July 5th, we once more stood in toward the land, 
but it still continued foggy, and we were unable to get near till 
about 4 P.M., having just before again sighted the Mariane. At 
that time two Esquimaux were seen coming at full speed toward us. 
In a few moments more they were alongside, and hoisted — kvacks 
and all — into the ship. Their names were " Sampson" and 
"Ephraim," each 5 feet 6£ inches in height, with small bauds, small 
feet, and pleasing features, except that both had some of their 
front teeth gone. These men had brought an abundance of sal- 
mon, caplins, sea-birds, etc., and eagerly began to trade with us. 
Speedily we were on the most friendly terms, and, as they were 
retained to pilot us in, merry-making was the order of the day. 
On entering the cabin to supper their conduct was most orderly, 
and when it was over they said, in good American, " Thank you." 
That night I had not long retired to rest before the captain 
came and told me it was calm, and a good opportunity for halibut 
and codfish. I was quickly dressed and on deck with line in 
hand. Two or three minutes more, and a halibut weighing 225 
lbs. was fast to my line, fifty fathoms deep, and in another two 
minutes I had the fish up in the sun's raj^s with harpoon stuck 
through him. In one hour a ton weight of codfish and halibut 
was taken by the use of only three lines. Sometimes, as I was 
informed, halibut have been caught weighing 500 lbs. each, and 
measuring eight feet in length. The Esquimaux in Greenland 
use the transparent membrane of the stomach of this fish instead 
of plates of glass. 



ESQUIMAUX PILOTS. 45 

During the night our two faithful Esquimaux kept on deck, 
watching the almost obscured mountains, that they might guide 
us aright. Their clothing was quite wet from exposure to the 
high seas that prevailed when they came to us, but they sat them- 
selves down on deck, and there watched, coughed, and quivered. 
I thought, at the time, it were better if they could be prevailed 
upon to adopt the custom of our seamen — always on the move 
when out in the open air ; but I understood they look upon our 
walking to and fro as foolishness — a great amount of hard work, 
with much expenditure of tanned skins (shoedeather) and muscle 
all for naught ! 

For about an hour, one of the Esquimaux made his way up 
into a whale-boat and went to sleep. On waking, he seemed quite 
thankful for the luxury of sleeping, though in the open air, his 
bed, for several days past, having been on the soft side of a boat, 
on the rocks of an island forty miles distant from Holstcinborg. 
He and his companion had been there engaged in hunting clucks, 
etc., when they discovered the George Henry. They were very rag- 
ged, and Captain B presented each with some new garments, 

which made them truly thankful. Some of the articles were new 
pants, and each man immediately put on a pair. Sampson's was 
a fair fit — that is to say, they were tight as a drum upon him ; but 
Ephraim's ! the waist would not meet within six inches. This, 
however, was all the same to him. He drew a long — very long 
breath ; so long, indeed, that I could not but think him like a 
whale, breathing once in ten minutes, or, if occasion required it, 
once in an hour ! Then, following this, Ephraim ceased for a 
moment to breathe at all, while he nimbly plied his fingers, and 
rapidly filled each button-hole with its respective button. Pants 
were now on and completely adjusted — buttoned! but as every 
living thing must have air or die, and as whales, when coming 
up to breathe, make the regions round about ring with the force 
with which they respire and inspire, so even an Esquimaux has 
to take in fresh draughts of oxygen, or he ceases to exist. Now 
Ephraim had, in buttoning his pants, suspended respiration for 
some longer time than nature was capable of sustaining. Ac- 
cordingly, nature resumed her functions, and, in the act of giving 
a full respiration, Ephraim's pants burst, the buttons flying all over 
the deck ! Civilization buttons and New London-made pants could 
not stand against the sudden distention of an Esquimaux's bow- 
els after being once so unnaturally contracted. Here the saying 



46 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

of old Horace 'would be useful: Naiuram expelles furca (amen us- 
que recurrel — You may turn Nature out of doors with violence, 
but she will return; and he might have continued — though the 
violence be an Esquimaux's bowels much contracted by a pair of 
New London-made pants of the nineteenth century ! 

I will now again quote from my Journal : 

"Saturday, July 7 th. After dancing around the harbor of IIol- 
stcinborg for many hours, we have at length made anchor within it. 

" During the last two or three days a fog of remarkable character 
has troubled us in making harbor. All at once the whole heav- 
ens would be clear and bright; in five minutes a thick fog would 
encircle us all around, closing from our view sunlight, the long 
ridge of Greenland mountains, the well-defined sea horizon, isl- 
ands, and icebergs. 

"Before coming to the North, I thought I was prepared to give 
a fair statement of the true theory of fogs. I now am satisfied 
that no one can give a satisfactory reason for the appearance and 
sudden disappearance — their reappearance and final dispersion, as 
I have witnessed them during the last four days. 

"At five o'clock this morning a Danish pilot came on board, who 
understood fully his business, which is more than I can say of the 
two Esquimaux, Sampson and Ephraim. Though they have 
shown great faithfulness, far beyond that of white men (as a gen- 
eral statement), yet I can not award them great praise in navi- 
gating large ships in their own and neighboring waters. 

"Last night was a happy night for me. No sunset. The slow 
descending sun, just dipping its edge in the Northern Sea, then 
hesitating in its course, then slowly mounting again into high 
heaven, gladdening my whole soul near to uncontrollable joy ! 

"The incidents connected are worthy to be recorded. The 
evening (at least after ten o'clock) was fine; sky as clear as a 
bell ; the air cool and invigorating. 

"I found, by a hasty calculation, that wc had made the north- 
ing which would allow us to see the sun continually when clear 
weather; that the sun would gladden our sight day after day 
without setting. I announced to all hands that the sun would 
not go down that night ; that on such a moment it would com- 
mence to return — to rise again. This was a novelty to many of 
the ship's crew. I then made my calculations carefully as to 
time — the hour, minute, and second when the sun would arrive ai 
its lowest meridian. This was necessary, that I might determine. 



MIDNIGHT SUN. 4- 

as well as the circumstances -would admit, the variation of the 
needle. 

" Twelve o'clock, low meridian, midnight — I use this in distinc- 
tion of high meridian, midday — was approaching. Every man, 
captain, and the ship's officers and crew, save the portion of watch 
off duty below and asleep, stood around me awaiting the anxious 
moment when the sun -would cease its downward and commence 
its upward course. 

" The George Henry was sweeping gently along, beating up north- 
erly and easterly against the wind. From the larboard side -we 
peered out upon the glorious scene. With my azimuth compass 
resting upon the bulwarks, my eye every other moment on it and 
the watch (the latter had just been placed in correspondence -with 
the ship's chronometer below), I at length announced the wished-. 
for moment — twelve o'clock. Cheer — cheer upon cheer followed 
from the ship's company. Time passed on ; the sun was slowly 
on its upward track. At first its motion was imperceptible; nev- 
ertheless, it was rising. 

"I continued to watch the upward and onward progress of the 
sun. Its northern declination is now growing less and less, there- 
fore the sun's presence here is less and less prolonged. Soon the 
arctic night will take the place of the arctic day, which is now 
fast clothing the mountains in green and flowers. 

" Before we finally entered Holsteinborg Harbor, the George 
Henry beat up against the -wind by tacking ship four or five 
times. At last the hour came when the position of the ship was 
pronounced by the Danish Esquimaux pilot — Lars Kleijl by name 
— to be good — very good. The morning was all that a high- 
bounding spirit could wish. I had turned in about two o'clock 
A.M., and was now greatly refreshed from a short sleep. When 
I arose the vessel was bending her beak toward the long-wished- 
for haven. Every one was on tiptoe with the joyousness of the 
present. An inquiry had passed back and forth why the natives 
did not come to meet us, as they were wont to meet American 
and English vessels. While yet far off, some one exclaimed, 
"There they come!" Every eye was quickly turned that way. 
I saw them at a distance coming swiftly in their kyacks. Their 
number seemed legion. On they come. They meet us, and greet 
with smiles. The George Henry kept her course ; the kyacks fol- 
lowed in our wake. We looked forward ; others and others were 
coming, as if to welcome us to their bay and hots 



48 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

" As we neared the land, how eagerly I sought to catch every 
view that was within sight. My eyes wandered far back to the 
most distant mountain; then I brought them quickly to those 
which seemed about to shake hands with me, piercing into their 
nooks and their time-worn rocks, now up to their pinnacles, now 
down to their broad massive bases. I was happy. 

" We saw the little Danish flag on the hill that stands as sentinel 
to the rock-ribbed bay. We passed on ; the western ridge, that 
runs far out into the sea, stole away the winds which were so 
gracefully carrjnng us to our chosen port, yet enough favored us 
to go slowly. Soon Holsteinborg, in all its imperial greatness, 
met our eye. 'Tis true, Holsteinborg was not gaudily attired, as 
some kings' palaces are ; but there she was and is, sparkling in 
diamonds of pure water, radiating rainbows in continual sunlight. 
There she was and is, surrounded by walls more ancient than 
Jerusalem, or Thebes, or Babel's Tower — of God's creation — 
mountains that seem to prop up this arctic sky — mountains 
wUbse southern sides are now clothed in green and laughing flow- 
ers, and whose northern slopes rest beneath a bed of white. 

" As we entered the harbor, our national colors, streamer, and 
ship's flag were raised, and the Governor of Holsteinborg re- 
sponded by hoisting the Danish ensign. Then, at 10 A.M. of 
this day, the 7th of July, 1860, and the fortieth day from the port 
of New London, United States, we came to an anchor. Had it 
not been for head winds and calms, we might have made the pas- 
sage in twenty-five to thirty days. Captain B has made it in 

thirty -four ; he says it generally takes about thirty. As it is, we 
have reason to thank God for His care and protection over us in 
this voyage. Oh, may He continue His blessing; may He be 
near unto me while in the prosecution of the great work before 
me ! With thee, God, I can accomplish much ; without thee, 
what am I ? — nothing ! nothing ! !" 

The Rescue schooner — our consort and tender — had not arrived. 
Her orders were to keep with us if possible ; but on the night of 
Thursday, 31st, the third day out, during the prevailing fogs and 
wind, we lost her. The rendezvous, however, was at this place, 
and we daily expected to see her. 



VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR. 49 



CHAPTER H. 

Land and Visit the Governor. — Brief History of Greenland. — The Holsteinborg Dis- 
trict. — Esquimaux and European Population. — Protection and Care of the Na- 
tives by the Danish Crown. — Plagues of Greenland. — Musquitoes. — Trade and 
Barter. — A Yankee outwitted by an Esquimaux. — Dinner at the Governor's. — 
M'Clintock's Work. — The Priest's Wife. — Visit the Government Buildings. — Ar- 
rival of the Rescue. — Lars's Care for his Family. — Dance on Shore. — A Mountain 
Excursion. — Rocks crumbling to pieces. — Action of Freezing Water in Crevices. 
— Sundays' and Esquimaux Amusements. — Greenland Festival. — Schools and 
Printing. — Dr. Rink. 

Immediately after we had dropped anchor, great excitement 
reigned on board. Some of us at once prepared for the shore, 
dressed in accordance with our home fashion of forty days ago, 
the captain and I intending to visit the governor. On landing, 
my heart leaped with joy as I touched the firm earth, and I could 
not help taking in my hands some of the rocky fragments on the 
beach and say, " Thank God, I am at last on arctic land, where I 
have so long wished to be ! Greenland's mountains, I greet 
you !" 

As Captain Budington had met the governor before, my intro- 
duction to him was easy. It was in the afternoon when our visit 
took place, and Governor Elberg received us with much kindly 
warmth. But the events that occurred during our stay were so 
various, and have been so minutely narrated in my private diary 
day by day, that I must try and introduce them as much together 
as I possibly can, first giving a brief sketch of what relates to Hol- 
steinborg and its vicinity. 

The early history of Greenland is generally well known, yet a 
brief resuml of it may not be uninteresting to the reader. In 
many respects it borders upon romance, as indeed all the old 
Scandinavian chronicles do, but well-attested facts state nearly as 
follows : 

About the middle of the tenth century, one Gunbiorn, an in- 
habitant of the previously-settled Iceland, discovered land to the 
west, and, on returning, made a report of what he had seen. Soon 
afterward, in the year 983, a person known as " Eric the Red" 
was sentenced by the Icelanders to banishment for the crime of 

D 



50 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

manslaughter, and he determined to visit the country GunbiO'rn 
had discovered. Sailing westward in a small vessel, he arrived 
at the new land, and coasted it toward the south ; then turning 
a point now known as Cape Farewell, he came to an island, where 
he passed his first winter. lie then remained three years explor- 
ing the ceasts, and finally returned to Iceland, where he gave such 
a report of " Greenland," as he termed the new countiy, that it in- 
duced many of the colonists of both sexes to go back with him. 
Only some of these reached their destination, the rest turning 
back or perishing by the way. A colony was now formed, and 
communication kept up with Iceland, and even with Norway. 
Leif, the son of Eric, went to the latter place, and, by command of 
the king, was instructed in the Christian religion, whence he was 
afterward sent back, attended by a priest, who baptized Eric and ■ 
all his followers. 

In the year 1001, one of the colonists, named Bjorn, was acci- 
dentally driven in his ship to the southwest of Greenland, and 
discovered a new country covered with wood. On his return, 
Leif fitted out a vessel, and, with Bjorn as pilot, went in search of 
this new land. He found it to be as described, and termed it 
Vinland, which there can be no doubt must have been part of 
North America, about the latitude of 45°. 

Meanwhile the colonists of Greenland increased in number and 
prosperit}'. In 1121 Arnold was elected the first bishop, and sev- 
eral churches were built. After this no less than seventeen bish- 
ops are known to have been elected from first to last, and the two 
settlements of East and West Greenland (into which the colonists 
had divided) numbered about three hundred villages. They had 
their little barques going from place to place along the western 
coast so high up as lat. 73°, and even, as is supposed from ancient 
records and from Euuic inscriptions seen there, to the entrance of 
the present-named Wellington Channel. 

For a long time after this the histo^ of these colonists is in- 
volved in obscurity. Intercourse with Europe was obstructed 
about the beginning of the fifteenth centuiy, and whether the col- 
onists were cut off by hordes of the Esquimaux from the north or 
west, or were destroyed by a pestilence, is 3 r et uncertain. There 
is, however, a document extant, discovered by Professor Mallet 
in the papal archives, which seems to warrant the idea of a hos- 
tile fleet " of wild heathen" having made a descent upon the col- 
ony, fell upon the people, " laid waste the country and its holy 



THE IIOLSTEIXBOUG DISTRICT. 51 

buildings with fire and sword, sparing nothing but the small par- 
ishes, and carrying captive the wretched inhabitants of both sex- 
es." Nothing, however, has been certainly known of their fate. 
Only ruins of their churches and convents now remain. 

At length, in 1576, Martin Frobisher visited Fricsland, now 
known to be Greenland, on his voyage of discovery to the north- 
west, but brought to light no particulars concerning the original 
colonists. Afterward, in 1605, James Hall, an Englishman, under 
Admiral Lindenow, was sent by Denmark to rediscover them if 
possible. He succeeded in landing upon the west coast, and com- 
municated with the natives, though nothing more resulted from 
his visit. Other voyagers touched upon its shores ; but not until 
1721, when that brave, and good, and truly Christian man, Hans 
Egede, conceived the project of himself going to Greenland, to 
spread religion among its natives, was any thing permanently ef- 
fected. Then Greenland soon came into notice, and, at various 
times, colonies and missionary establishments, under the Danish 
flag, were formed along its coasts. At present there are thirteen 
settlements, besides commercial and missionary stations. The 
most northern official settlement is Upernavik, in lat. 73° N., 
but there is a fishing establishment, called Tessuisdk, some few 
miles still farther on. Holsteinborg is in lat. 66° 56' N., long. 53° 
42' W. This latter place was, according to Crantz, the fifth col- 
ony begun in Greenland, and first settled in the year 1759. It is 
one of the most convenient places both for dwelling and trading. 

Holsteinborg District begins at North Stromsfiord, and extends 
for about ninety-two English miles. Its breadth eastward from 
the sea is also about ninety-two miles. There are four fiords in 
the district, and the mountains upon it are high, though not so 
lofty as farther north. The only European who has penetrated 
far to the eastward through this district is Kielsen, in 1830. He 
found the land not so mountainous as toward the sea. 

The harbor of Holsteinborg is good, and well landlocked. The 
spring tides are about 12 feet. 

The buildings have, as I was told, the best appearance of any 
in Greenland. They may be thus enumerated : 

The governor's house ; priest's house ; the church ; the lieuten- 
ant governor's house; the dance-house; school-house; brewing 
house; the blacksmith's ; two warehouses; one cooperage; one 
"'try" house for oil; thirteen Esquimaux houses, Danish built; 
three turf houses for Esquimaux, and one dead-house, where de- 



52 AECTIC RESEAKCn EXPEDITION. 

ceased persons are placed for six days before burial. Graves arc 
dug, even in winter, for burying. Thus the total number of 
buildings in Holsteinborg amounts to 29. 

The population is as follows : 

The inhabitants in Holsteinborg District proper number 197 : 
in Kemortusuk, 103 ; in Omanausiik, 97 ; in Sarfangoak, 158 ; in 
Itiblik, 108 — making a total of 663 souls. 

In the town of Ilolsteinborg there are only ten Europeans, but 
throughout all Greenland in 1855 they numbered 250. At that 
date it was estimated there were 9644 Esquimaux, three fourths 
of whom were of Danish blood and the rest pure. 

In the Holsteinborg District there are three small schooners, 
five small boats, and eleven whale-boats. 

In 1859, which was considered a bad year, only one whale was 
captured, though sometimes ten and twelve have been caught in 
a single season. Of reindeer 300 were secured ; of seal-blubber, 
5000 lbs. ; liver of sharks, 2000 lbs. ; blue foxskins, 100 ; white 
foxskins, 150 ; eider-down, before cleansing, 500 lbs. ; after cleans- 
ing, 100 lbs. ; and of stockfish — ■ that is, dried codfish unsalted, 
4000 lbs. 

I may state that during Governor Elberg's time, since 1850, 
there have been killed froni 5000 to 6000 reindeer. Several years 
ago there were obtained in two years from the Esquimaux about 
fifty tons of reindeer horn, costing some two skillings, or one cent 
federal money, per pound ; 4500 lbs. of it were sent home to Co- 
penhagen, but it would not pay freight. 

The governor also told me that "whenever the ships were 
obliged to take home to Copenhagen stone for ballast, they could 
sell it to no rjurpose, because it was complained of as rotten." 
This I found to be generally true. On several mountains I vis- 
ited, stones exposed to the atmosphere were crumbling. On 
Mount Cunningham I had satisfactory proof of it. Small mounds 
of stone that have evidently crumbled off the larger mountains 
may be seen lying at the base. The winters are doing their lev- 
eling work, and doing it rapidly. 

There are four midwives. Two have a good medical education, 
obtained in Copenhagen. They receive §70 (Danish) per ycar. : 

Dan] ii. 
The schoolmaster receives per annum sil'."> no 

Three other teachers, each " 100 00 

Three " " " 2.'. 00 

Three " " " 10 00 

Two " " " 6 00 



. :: 



MUSQUITOES. 53 

One of these latter gets six dollars, and teaches his two chil- 
dren — the only two children of his district — to read and write ! 

Four women, who teach the children "A, B, C's," get each one 
dollar per year. 

The men, sixteen in number, in the employ of government, get 
each forty to ninety dollars per year, besides provisions for them- 
selves and families. Every fourteen days bread is baked for 
them. 

In the town there are twenty-four stoves — only one to each 
house ; and these stoves require 100 barrels of coal and five fath- 
oms of wood. 

There are reckoned to be 1700 Esquimaux sealers in Green- 
land, -400 fishers, and one Esquimaux officer (a clerk), whose fa- 
ther was a Dane and the Governor of Lievely — Goodhavn. In 
addition, there are of Esquimaux 17 foremen and boatsmen ; 22 
coopers and blacksmiths ; 87 sailors ; 15 pensioners, whose busi- 
ness is to look after goats, and who get half rations of beer, pork, 
meat, and butter, etc., but full rations of pease, barley, etc. 

There are also 20 native catechists or missionaries. 

The European missionaries and priests number 18 German and 
11 Danish. 

Of first and second governors there are 31. 

Three doctors visit each place once a year. There are 36 Eu- 
ropean clerks ; 7 boat-steerers ; 28 coopers, carpenters, and black- 
smiths ; 19 sailors and cooks ; and 8 pensioners. 

The whole body of missionaries are paid per annum, in Dan- 
ish money, $16,360 ; of which amount Government House gives 
$14,650, and the East India Missions, at the outside, $2000. For 
schools and school-books the sum of $6500 is appropriated. 

I now proceed with my personal narrative. 

Among the numerous visitors that greeted us on our arrival. 
I was astonished to find myriads of musquitoes. Little did we 
expect so warm a reception in the arctic regions. Talk about mus- 
quitoes in the States as being numerous and troublesome ! Why, 
no man who has not visited the arctic shores in the months of 
July and August can have a good idea of these Liliputian ele- 
phants. In the States the very hum of a musquito is enough to 
set any one upon his guard. How many a poor soul there has 
been kept in a state of torment all night by the presence of only 
two or three musquitoes! But here, in the North, it is a com- 
mon, every-hour affair to have thousands at one time around you, 



54 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



some buzzing, some drawing the very life-blood from face, bands, 
arms, and legs, until one is driven to a state approaching mad- 
ness. Even the clothing worn in the States is no protection here 
against the huge proboscis with which each lady musquito is 
armed. 

On Monday, July 9th, a laughable circumstance occurred. It 
consisted in the fact that Esquimaux had managed to outwit 
Yankee, and thus it was : 

Sterry — the sharp Sterry, who understands the Esquimaux lan- 
guage, had been assisting Smith, the third mate, in some " trade" 
with the natives. Sampson, the pilot, was the man who had come 
on board, with several others, to see what could be picked up. 
lie was accosted by Smith, and asked if he had any thing to 
trade ; but the reply was that " all had gone." In fact, he had 
parted with every thing of value in his possession, and that, too, 
for nominal prices in return. Smith, however, was not satisfied, 
and again pressed the Esquimaux. At length it occurred to 
Sampson that he had money, with which he could purchase out- 
right some tobacco. So he asked Smith if he bad any to sell. 
Smith replied, " Yes ; how much do you want ?" Sampson there- 
upon drew forth a Danish bill, marked " sex skilling" — a shin- 



6-Skl.Rm. 



Z'tW. 



-if 









/ 



"7* 



GREENLAND CUEEENCT. 



plaster — and said, "How much you sell for this?" Smith took 
the bill with avidity, and showed it to our acute, jocular, and ever 



A YANKEE OUTWITTED. 55 

good-humored Sterry. I here show a fac-simile of it to my read- 
ers. Sterry, seeing the "sex skilling" on the bill, thought it to 
be six shillings Yankee currency, and accordingly himself ad- 
dressed the Esquimaux in native tongue. " How many plugs 
for this?" said he. "Four," answered Sampson. Now this, if 
each had understood the other, would have been clear, straight- 
forward, and a bargain. But Sterry, though well talking Esqui- 
maux on the west side of Davis's Straits, was not so proficient in 
it at Greenland, where there is a material difference. Accord- 
ingly, Sampson's reply he took to mean four pounds of tobacco, 
which amounted to thirty-two plugs. This, even at the " six shil- 
lings" Yankee currency, was a pretty "steep price," for the to- 
bacco was worth at least one dollar and sixty-eight cents. How- 
ever, for certain reasons connected with an extreme thirst then 
raging throughout both Sterry and Smith, it was concluded to let 
the tobacco go that the money might be had. Smith, therefore, 
went to his chest and got what Sampson wanted. As the plugs 
of tobacco were counted over to the Esquimaux, his eyes ex- 
panded with immense delight and astonishment. He hastened to 
his kyack with the "godsend," and hurried to the shore, the rich- 
est native man in Holsteinborg. Immediately he communicated 
to his friends the immense wealth that had befallen him from his 
" sex shillings ;" how he had asked only four plugs of tobacco 
from the white man on board the ship, and he had got eightfold. 
It was enough. What California was to Americans, so was the 
barque George Henry now to the Esquimaux of Holsteinborg. 
Kyack after kyack came with its dignified Esquimaux, each load- 
ed with a large complement of the fortune-making "sex skilling." 
Sampson, who had so quickly got rich, was among the new-com- 
ers, eagerly seeking for more. But, alas for the hopes of men, 
especially when founded on bank bills ! A speculation had al- 
ready commenced in town on the " skilling notes." They ran up 
above par to 300, 400, and, at one time, 800 per cent. ! And when 
the Esquimaux, to some scores of persons, arrived on board, they 
found themselves partly ruined instead of being enriched. Our 
Stony and Smith had discovered their mistake, and thus many 
an Esquimaux, who, like several white men, had invested his all 
in that sort of paper currency at high figures, found himself al- 
most beggared. Directly Sampson came on board, he was met 
by Smith at the gangway, and the following took place, to the 
dismay of the numerous new traders : 



56 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Taking the " cussed" bill from his pocket and handing it to 
Sampson, Smith said, " No good ; too little money for four pounds 
tobacco." Sampson, with honest face, looked Smith in the eye, 
and replied, " He be good ;" which really was true — good for its 
face, sex shilling, equivalent to about three cents federal coin. 
But Sterry, who had joined, now insisted, in as good " Husky" 
(Esquimaux) language as he could command, that "too little 
money for good deal tobacco," and he held up his finger of one 
hand, a thumb and all his fingers of the other. Sampson now 
understood, and woefully but honestly said, "I go get tobacco 
and bring it back." Smith handed him the bill, but Sampson at 
once told him to keep it until he should return. "No," said 
Smith, "take it along with you. I'll trust you. I see you're hon- 
est, and wish to do what is right. It's Sterry's fault," he added, 
afterward, " or I should not have been caught so. But, if I never 
get my tobacco again, I don't care. I've learned a good lesson, 
and that is, not to deal in ' Husky' bank-stock. I'm now a Jack- 
son man. D — n all banks except that of Newfoundland, where I 
hojue yet to catch more cod on my way to and from these parts." 

Need I say that the Esquimaux had to return on shore very 
crestfallen with their disappointment? Who would not have been, 
especially after investing in stocks, as many of them had done ? 

To finish the history of this affair, I may as well add here that, 
in a few days after this, " Sampson," with all his family and his 
friends, left Holsteinborg for some other place. Smith therefore 
became minus four pounds of tobacco, and the " sex shilling" be- 
sides ! Thus the Esquimaux completely outwitted two of our 
smart Yankees, and, what is more, did it without the smallest in- 
tention of dishonesty at the time. Sterry always declared that he 
thought the " sex shilling" bill was six Yankee shillings, and both 
he and Smith acknowledged they were anxious to get some Green- 
land money to " splice the main brace." Ever afterward they had 
frequent reminders from our ship's company of the joke. 

Thursday, July 10th, was a most interesting day to me, on ac- 
count of a visit paid by Captain Budington and myself to Gov- 
ernor Elberg. Leaving the ship, which was anchored half a mile 
from the landing, we were taken on shore by an Esquimaux boat 
rowed by natives, and arrived at Government House about 4 
P.M. We found him busily engaged with his clerk in preparing 
an Annual Beport for the King of Denmark ; but he kindly wel- 
comed us, and, putting aside his labors, escorted us into a private 



M'CLINTOCK'S VOYAGE. 57 

room. Here we soon entered into genial conversation ; and a pres- 
ent from Captain Budington of sweet ftotatoes grown in Florida 
(never before seen by the governor), with a case of preserved 
quinces from me, much pleased him. 

Hearing that I had on board a copy of M'Clintock's Voyage, he 
asked for the loan of it, and I let him have it soon afterward. 
Captain M'Clintock, in the account of his voyage, thus speaks of 
his visit to Holsteinborg in the latter end of April, 1858 : 

" We have been visited by the Danish residents — the chief trad- 
er or governor, the priest and two others. * * * I afterward 
visited the governor, and found his little wooden house as scrupu- 
lously clean and neat as the houses of the Danish residents in 
Greenland invariably are. The only ornaments about the room 
were portraits of his unfortunate wife and two children. They 
embarked at Copenhagen last year to rejoin him, and the ill-fated 
vessel has never since been beard of. * * * This is a grand 
Danish holiday ; the inhabitants are all dressed in their Sunday 
clothes — at least all wbo have got a change of garment — and there 
is both morning and evening service in the small wooden church. 
* - This is the only part of Greenland where earthquakes 
are felt. The governor told me of an unusually severe shock 
which occurred a winter or two ago. He was sitting in his room 
reading at the time, when he heard a loud noise like the discharge 
of a cannon. Immediately afterward a tremulous motion was 
felt; some glasses upon the table began to dance about, and pa- 
pers lying upon the window-sill fell down. After a few seconds 
it ceased. He thinks the motion originated at the lake, as it was 
not felt by some people living beyond it, and that it passed from 
N.E. to SW. * * * The mountain scenery is really charm- 
ing. * * * The clergyman of Holsteinborg was born in this 
colony, and has succeeded his father in the priestly office ; his 
wife is the only European female in the colony. Being told that 
fuel was extremely scarce in the Danish houses, and that the 
priests wife was blue with the cold, I sent on shore a present of 
coals." 

The governor invited us to visit the various buildings and the 
town. We first directed our steps to the general government 
store, where we saw almost as much variety as in a country store 
at home. There was a little of every thing, with a good deal of 
malt, barley, pease, and dry bread, which will keep for years. 

In a warehouse near the landing I noticed large quantities of 



58 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

whale rope, butter, fish, and crackers enough for his whole popu- 
lation (numbering 700 souls) for two years. Every thing was of 
the most substantial character, and stored in such a large quanti- 
ty in case the vessel which is annually sent to the colonists from 
Denmark should be lost. There -was also a large supply of deer- 
skins, sealskins, water-proof clothing, etc. In a loft over the store 
I saw some sword-blades, used for cutting blubber! Eesolving 
swords into plowshares is an old idea, but swords into blubber- 
cutters is something decidedly new. 

While at the store a customer arrived — an Esquimaux. He 
wanted some sugar and coffee. This was served to him, and he 
paid for it by a Greenland bill of twenty-four shillings, equal to 
fourteen cents American. 

We next visited the blacksmith's shop — a building that looks 
quite equal to a fine village dwelling-house. Inside was the ma- 
chine-shop, with long rows of whale gear, harpoons, lances, etc., 
and three whale guns. Here I saw a cast-iron stove, which the 
governor said was the kind used by the natives. This stove was 
filed all over and polished ; the stove-pipe, twenty feet long, also 
of cast iron. Its price was equivalent to $15 federal money. 
The blacksmith was a fine-looking, intelligent mechanic. 

Our next visit was to the school-house. To enter it we had to 
stoop much. "He stoops to conquer," was an idea that entered 
my mind as I thought of the teacher who bends his head on en- 
tering that temple of knowledge. The teacher's business is to 
bend. "As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined." Intelligence 
and virtue will yet conquer ignorance and vice. Who would 
not stoop that such a cause— the cause of knowledge — might pro- 
gress ? 

On returning to the governor's house, we went into an upper 
room which overlooks Davis's Straits and the many islands 
around the entrance of the harbor. Here is the " apothecary's 
shop," the contents of which the governor himself dispenses as 
required among the sick natives. Shelves of stationery were also 
round the room ; and in a closet a quantity of eider-down, from 
which, iU 1850, both Dr. Kane and Commodore De Haven had 
some for their beds. The keys of the government buildings — 
many of ponderous size — were also kept in a closet here. 

After examining the several places of note, we sat down to an 
excellent supper of duck, salmon, trout, eider-duck's eggs, butter, 
American cheese, some very rich goat's milk, white flour bread. 



EVENING PARTY ON SHORE. 59 

Yankee-brewed rye liquors, and good tea. A Danish custom of 
sbakinc; hands on rising from table followed. "We then went out 
for a walk, and to call on the lieutenant governor. This gentle- 
man was very kind and urbane in his demeanor. He brought 
forth numerous specimens of Greenland rocks and of fossil fish — 
capelin (Jlallotus villosus) — called by the Greenlanders " angmar- 
set," by the Danes "sild," and by the English "capelin." This 
fish is about six inches long, of a bluish-brown color on the back, 
and silver-white on the belly. The fossils were found about 100 
miles up a fiord, the entrance to which is close by here. Though 
they are of great value, the lieutenant governor most generously 
presented the whole to me. 

At his house I saw some very good snow-shoes, such as are 
used in Norway. They are about six feet long by five inches 
wide, and covered with sealskin. They are made of a flat, thin 
piece of board, bent up at its fore part. This is the kind of snow- 
shoe Parry bought at Hammerfest, in Norway, when on his North 
Pole voyage in 1827. He afterward used them for runners, on 
which he placed his two boats to be drawn over the ice. 

"We spent the evening in the governor's house, where a pleas- 
ant party was assembled, among whom were the priest's wife, Mrs. 
Kjer, and another lady, Feoken Billou, daughter of the governor of 
the District of Godhaab. The priest himself was absent on a 
journey. During conversation I related how M'Clintock had 
found the paper belonging to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and 
deep interest was evinced by all in the subject. The governor 
read from M'Clintock's work that portion relating to his visit 
here, and which I have already transcribed. When the part was 
translated which referred to the priest's wife being "blue with the 
cold," it caused immense merriment, none enjoying the joke more 
than the lady herself. The whole scene, indeed, was such as I can 
not readily forget. The Esquimaux servants, in their costume, 
were around, M'Clintock's book in the governor's hand, while the 
chart and fac-simile of the Franklin record lay open before him. 

After tea the ladies commenced knitting some lace, and during 
the evening Madam Kjer presented me with a mustard-ladle and 
two salt-shovels, all of ivory walrus tusk, made by an Esquimaux 
with only a knife! They were of excellent workmanship, and I 
valued them greatly. I had previously offered the ladies two pin 
and needle cushions, which they kindly accepted. 

During a conversation with the governor this day he informed 



GO ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

me that the whole of Greenland belongs to the King of Denmark 
as his royal prerogative, and is the only dependency that is con- 
trolled exclusively Ijy him. Much fault is found with this by the 
people of Denmark — much written in the papers. Those who 
are for the king retaining this right contend that otherwise the 
poor Esquimaux would at once become debased, and lose all the 
great influences that are now at work for their benefit. Throw- 
ing open the ports of Greenland would be followed by vessels of 
every country visiting the natives, and purchasing their skins, oil, 
and bone for liquor ! The Esquimaux of Greenland will dispose 
of their all to obtain spirituous drinks, and the governor said that 
not for any thing would he sell them a glass of liquor. 

After bidding the party a cordial good-night, we returned to 
the beach at half past ten, and found one of our boats ready to 
take us off. It contained Sterry (red as a beet), Smith, Rogers, 
and five or six others of the crew, who had been at a dance given 
by the mother-in-law of the lieutenant governor. They had all 
enjoyed themselves amazingly. 

The following day, Wednesday, July 11th, fogs prevailed. 
Hardly a musquito had been seen since Sunday ; and to me it 
was a singular fact, that a warm sunny day will bring myriads 
around you within the arctic circle, when, if it be at all foggy, 
none are to be seen. The bites of these annoying little insects 
remained for days, and my whole body was covered with the 
merciless wounds inflicted by them. 

In the afternoon an "oomiak," or woman's hoat, came along- 
side, rowed by Esquimaux girls. There were in the boat two 
mothers, with their babies, and ten young women. They had 
been out gathering fuel,* and called upon us on their way back. 

The accompanying illustration of an Esquimaux woman and 
child is a fac-simile of a wood-cut drawn and engraved by a Green- 
lander named Aaron, living near Godhaab, who has received no 
better education than the generality of his countrymen. 

About 2 P.M. of this day our consort, the Rescue, hove in sight, 
and, as the wind was almost gone, boats were sent to help her in. 
I went in one of the boats, pulling an oar, and, after rowing a dis- 
tance of some miles, got on board of the schooner. By that time 
it was calm, and the stillness of evening had approached. Another 
boat, containing Smith, and the noble, good-hearted Esquimaux 
pilot, called Lars Kleijt, had joined us, and there we were, in real 
* A dwarf shrub — Andromeda tetragona. 




[i"iic-?iniii(-' <fa wood-cut executed by oo Bequunsnx] 



ESQUIMAUX DANCE ON SHORE. 63 

whaling fashion, towing the new arrival into harbor. Four boats, 
of beautiful form and finish — two white, with blue gunwales, and 
two green — were in a line ahead of the Rescue, pulling her along, 
while the merry Voices of our men resounded upon the still wa- 
ters, and were echoed back from the bold mountains in answering 
glee. It was a pretty sight as witnessed from the schooner's deck, 
and one to be often remembered. " Otto," a pure-blooded Esqui- 
maux, stood at the wheel to steer us in, and all hands besides, ex- 
cept the cook, were in the boats. 

At midnight wc came to an anchor within a couple of stones' 
throw of Government House. 

Both Otto and Lars Kkijt were reckoned such good men and 
ice pilots that every confidence was placed in them. I asked the 
latter, " What for" — meaning how much — " you go to "West Land 
(King William's Land) with me?" His answer was, " My mother 
old man — she get no dinner — my little ones die!" 

Captain Walker, of a Scotch whaler, last year tried to get 
" Lars" to go with him, and offered to make him second mate ; 
but Lars said, " Me no go for all the world. My family !" A 
noble fellow this Lars. But, poor man ! he was then much dis- 
tressed, owing to the loss of his wife, who had died a few weeks 
previous to our visit. He himself appeared very sick, and my 
sincere wish was that so good a husband, son, and parent might 
be spared for his little ones and the mother he so greatly loved. 

Otto loved his grog. He and Lars went out fishing. On re- 
turn, coming aboard, he most earnestly asked for a glass of spirits, 
" to keep salt-water out of poor Esquimaux !" 

In the evening of the following day, myself, the captain, mate, 
Lamb, and most of the crew, went on shore to a grand dance given 
by the Esquimaux girls to the white-men visitors. Stcrry, our 
genial Sterry, was in his clement. He had a most capital faculty 
for gaining the affections of the fair sex, and proved himself ex- 
cellent on the variations. He had a continual crowd of the good- 
looking around him. We had an old sea-captain (an Esquimaux), 
Ironface, as a fiddler, perched up in the window, with pipe in his 
mouth, and merry, right merry did all of us become. Several 
dances, in excellent order, were performed, and many of our com- 
pany went through their waltzing with Esquimaux partners in 
capital style. Every thing was done in the most kindly and 
agreeable manner ; and when the party broke up, it left upon the 
mind of each of us a feeling of the most friendly nature. 



64 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

The first Sunday at Holsteinborg I determined to ascend the 
mountain on the north side of the harbor, and there worship in 
the great temple of the world's Creator. In the morning, accom- 
panied by Sterry, we began the ascent, with a fine clear sky above, 
and the glorious sun shining warmly upon us. But, ere we had 
got far, swarms of musquitoes came around. Fortunately, I had 
long hair on my head, and my beard and mustache were also of 
great length. Sterry, however, had to cover his face with a hand- 
kerchief having two little holes for look-outs. 

As we went on, streams of pure and sparkling cold water came 
dancing down the mountain side, and at these we several times 
quenched our thirst. Thus steep after steep we mounted, but at 
what cost i The sun's rays poured hot upon our backs, and both 
of us soon had to doff our coats, leaving the musquitoes to perse- 
cute us at will. All we could do was to push on quickly, to see 
if we could get into a higher region where these torments did not 
abound. But our bodies soon became weary ; and the steepness 
of the way was such that one false step would have proved fatal 
to us ; yet we were not without some relief. Patches of broad- 
leaved sorrel on the mountain-side refreshed us greatly as we 
rested, and beds of moss, covered with smiling flowers, served as 
our temporary couch. 

In about two hours we gained the summit, both of us covered 
with musquitoes, and driven almost to madness by their stings. 
In vain we tried every thing that mind could think of to get rid 
of them. Nothing availed. We were doomed by these merciless 
invaders, and our very life's blood was copiously drawn forth to 
supply their gluttonous desires. 

On the other side of the mountain we saw a beautiful little 
lake ; and upon standing by its side, it was found to be clear as 
crystal, mirroring forth the lofty peaks above us. On its north 
shore was a low shingly beach, that had been thrown up by the 
winds coming in this, the only direction they could cross the wa- 
ter. This lake was fed by various small streams that were leap- 
ing down from the snowy mountains, and, if it had got no other 
name, I termed it " "William Sterry" Lake. We walked along it, 
and saw numerous salmon, small trout (three of which we caught 
with our hands), and many skulls and horns of deer. 

It was now dinner-time, and our appetite was well sharpened 
by the exercise we had enjoyed. Accordingly, a fire was lit 
whereby to cook the fish, though at first I was greatly puzzled 



MOUNTAIN EXCURSION. 65 

how we were to get material for a fire ; but Sterry, who had been 
so much in this arctic region, well knew its resources. Where all 
looked barren to me, he soon found moss and some low brush- 
wood, like the running hemlock of the States. It is a tough 
shrub, with small leaves and white blossoms, which produce black 
berries with red sweet juice. Dwarf willow, heather, and small 
undergrowth wood of various description are intermixed. The 
dead wood, the leaves, stalks, and limbs of preceding years, are 
thickly interspersed with the growing portions of this fuel, and it 
was with it that Sterry so quickly made a fire. A result follow- 
ed, however, that we little expected. The abundance of such fuel 
around caused the fire to spread rapidly, and as a strong breeze 
was now blowing, it soon got beyond our control. Sterry, how- 
ever, very calmly said, " Never mind ; let it burn. Of what use 
is this to any body, hemmed in here by these mountains?" So I 
very quietly made myself content, and sat down to the primitive 
meal — a carpet of heather for our tabic, and huge precipices yawn- 
ing close by, with high, broken mountains that pierced the sky 
griml} r looking down upon lis. 

There is philosophy in every thing, especially in eating. The 
world eats too much. Learn to live — to live as we oucbt. A 
little food well eaten is better for any one than much badly eat- 
en. Our pleasures have a higher relish when properly used. 
Thus we thoroughly enjoyed our food, and, after a short nap, 
started on the return journey. 

As we passed along, I noticed several large rocks, thousands of 
tons in weight, that had evidently fallen from the tops of two 
lofty mountains, the detached portions corresponding in shape to 
the parts vacated. Every where was seen the effects of the freez- 
ing of the water that percolates into the crevices. The tremen- 
dous workings of Nature in these mountains of Greenland during 
the arctic winter often result in what many of the inhabitants 
think to be earthquakes, when, in fact, the freezing of water is 
alone the cause ! In descending, we encountered several little 
clear, babbling brooks, innumerable flowers, and shrub-fuel in 
abundance. Peat was also plentiful. Fox-holes in numbers were 
seen, and a natural canal, with an embankment, in appearance 
much like the levee at New Orleans. 

On arriving at the beach, which was a quarter of a mile long, we 
found it as smooth and inviting as that of Cape May. The limit 
of this beach was next to an abrupt bank with millions of broken 

E 



66 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

shells upon it, and covered with driftwood ten feet above high- 
water mark. One piece was twelve feet long, llere, from a boat 
that took us off, we heard that the town of Holsteinborg was 
much alarmed about the fire up in the mountain, and, from what 
I afterward gathered in an explanation I had with the governor 
when I apologized for our thoughtlessness, it was evident that the 
Esquimaux dreaded the loss of what they considered their best 
fields — not woods — of fuel. Fortunately, the fire went out in 
about an hour after its discovery by the people. 

It was on this Sunday afternoon that I heard of a curious cus- 
tom here. The dance-house is regularly opened after 4 P.M. 
The people go to church in the morning and afternoon, then they 
consider Sunday to cease, and amusement begins. I went to the 
dance-house, where I found the governor, his lieutenant, Miss Bii- 
lou, and Mrs. Kjer. Miss Biilou and the lieutenant governor 
danced, but the governor has not for years, and the priest and his 
wife never. Sometimes 150 persons are crowded into this dance- 
house. 

I asked the governor when the Sabbath began. He replied, 
" On Saturday evening, and ends Sunday at 4 P.M." I farther 
inquired if the Esquimaux were at liberty to work after that 
hour on Sundays. He said, " No, certainly not." " Then how is 
it the government dance-house is opened for balls at that time?" 
said I. " Oh, that is not work /" responded the good Governor 
Elberg. 

Referring to the amusements of these native Greenlanders, I am 
led to speak of a great festival that occurs here on the Danish 
king's birthday, and is general, on the same day, throughout all 
the settlements. His Danish majesty supplies the good cheer, and 
Europeans as well as Esquimaux join in t]je festivity. It is a 
most enlivening scene, as the accompanying sketch will show. 
The original of this picture, which I have in my possession, was 
drawn by a Greenlander, and Mrs. Kjer, who gave it to me, said 
it was an admirable representation of the great festal day. 

On another occasion I visited the church one Sunday morning, 
when the school-teacher — a native Esquimaux — preached exceed- 
ingly well, and I must say that the general attention given would 
do credit to people any where. The j)reacher played an organ, 
and went through the whole services in a most praiseworthy man- 
ner. Indeed, I was much struck with the great advance made by 
the native inhabitants of Holsteinborg in Christian and general 



ADVANCED EDUCATION OF TIIE GREENLANDERS. 69 

educational knowledge. Their school is well attended, and read- 
ing and writing are carried on admirably. 

Very few persons here at home have any true conception of the 
great advance made in education by these Greenland-Esquimaux. 
It has often astonished me when listening to the apt and ready 
way in which even children would pronounce some of their ex- 
traordinarily long words, some of those words consisting of no 
less than fifty letters ! 

The following is one of their long words, but not the longest: 

Piniagagssakardluarungnaerangat. 

In all the trials made on one occasion in the cabin, by both 
male and female— by old and young — by all, I found none but 
could read, and read well. 

I was surprised to see the rapidity — the full, clear enunciation 
of every syllable, with which they read; and one little Esqui- 
maux boy seemed to exceed the rest, though all did well. 

Perhaps I can not give my readers a better idea of this than re- 
printing a small portion of a child's First Primer, beginning at 
the alphabet, and giving the sound of each letter. The explana- 
tion was carefully made to me by Miss Biilou. 

The Greenland-Esquimaux alphabet consists of twenty-four let- 
ters, as follows : 

A, B, D, E, F, G, II, I, J, K, K', L, M, N, 0, P, E, S, T, U, V, Y, 
M,0. 

The sound of each letter only varies from what we give to the 
same in the following: 

G is he; H, ho; I, e; J, yoge; K, qu; K', qu; R, er ; IT, oo ; 
Y, oe-i. 

The following is the Lord's Prayer.in Esquimaux : 

" Atdtarput killangmetottina ! Akkit usfornarnlle ! Nakega- 
v6t tikkiudle ! Pekkosfajt killangmifut nunnamisaak taimaikil- 
le! Tunnisfigut udlome pikfavtinnik! Pisfaraunatta akketfo- 
ravta, pisftcngillavuttaak akketfortivut ! Usfernartomut pislitfa- 
raunatta, ajortomidle annautigut! Nalffigaunerogavit pirfarfou- 
nerudluttidlo usfornarnerudluttidlo isfokangittomut. Amen." 

The minister Kjer has been at work translating "Robinson 
Crusoe" into Esquimaux, that copies might be printed and dis- 
tributed among his people in Greenland. In his library there 
is an Esquimaux Bible, and every thing is done to make the 
natives of Holsteinborg good and happy. Dr. Rink has also is- 



70 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

sued some useful story-books in Esquimaux, one of which books, 
and also a copy of the doctor's famous work, the governor kindly 
gave me. 

Dr. Eink is so well known by repute among scientific men and 
others, that I need hardly say much about him. Unfortunately, 
he was absent at my visit, but I wrote to him about the object of 
my undertaking, and expressed my regret at not having had the 
pleasure of an interview.* 

The following are a few interesting particulars I obtained from 
Governor Elberg concerning this eminent man : 

At the time I visited Holsteinborg he had been inspector of 
South Greenland eight years ; two years also governor of Julian- 
na-haab. He is a tall man, and a clever student. He was em- 
ployed by government to survey Greenland, and received during 
the time 500 Danish dollars per annum, besides found in every 
thing. The government supplied all the boats, men, and pro- 
visions. 

Dr. Eink's wife was 17 years of age when he married her. She 
was the daughter of Governor Miiller, who in 1850 was succeeded 
by Governor Elberg over the Holsteinborg District. Mrs. Eink 
was born at Erederick's Haab, and she likes Greenland so well 
for her Some that she would be sorry to leave it. 

* The following is a copy of the letter I sent to Dr. Rink, and, as it explains some 
matters that belong to my movements after this date, I here append it : 

" Holsteinloeg, Greenland, July 24th, 1S60, on board the barque Gcorrc Henry, 
"Dit. H.Rink: 

"Dear Sir, — Though unacquainted personally, yet I claim to know you, in com- 
mon with my countrymen, from your works, as a man devoted to the increase of 
knowledge among men, especially that knowledge pertaining to geography and science. 

" On my arrival here, July 7th, it was with sorrow that I learned from Governor 
Elberg that you had departed. The pleasure and profit, intellectually, of meeting 
one so experienced in and devoted to the regions of the North would have been in- 
calculable. 

"I am on my way to King William's Land, via Frobisher Strait, Fox Channel, 
Fury and Hecla Strait, Gulf of Boothia, and Boothia. On the peninsula of Boothia 
and King William's Land I expect to spend the next three years, devoting myself 
mainly to the object of continuing and completing the history of the Franklin Ex- 
pedition. 

"I am satisfied that Frobisher Strait can be navigated, though no vessel has yet 
penetrated through its entire length. Fox Channel, on the east side, has never been 
navigated beyond latitude 66° 50' N. Fox's Farthest, and Parry's discovery near 
the east entrance of Fury and IJtda Strait, should be connected by other discoveries. 
I am hoping to complete this chain of discoveries this year. 

"Since my arrival here in Greenland — 17 days ago — I have received the most 
kindly and hospitable attention from Governor Elberg, the knowledge of which will 
he gratifying to my countrymen under whose auspices I am making this voyage. 

"Governor Elberg has presented me with a copy of your work upon South Green- 
land. This is another valuable acquisition to the geographic and scientific world. 
"Believe me, sir, Humcmi nihil ali num. 

"Respectfully. C.F.Hall." 



GOVERNOR VISITS THE SHIP. 7 1 



chapter nr. 

Visit of Governor Elberg to tbc Ship. — His Pleasure at American Progress. — Adam 
Beck. — Another Mountain Ascent. — The "Woman's Hood." — A grand Scene. — 
Ball on board Ship. — Sun's Eclipse. — Danger to Ship and Boat in a Gale. — Cu- 
rious Esquimaux Feats. — Mishap to the George Henry's Windlass. — A stirring 
Picture. — Kind Assistance of the Governor. — Preparations for Departure. — Let- 
ters Home. — Leave-taking. — Final Adieus. — Farewell to Holsteinborg. 

Our consort, the Rescue, having rejoined us, it was determined 
by Captain Budington to depart for his -whaling-ground on west 
side Davis's Straits directly all the necessary preparations about 
the ship were completed for navigating among the ice. Mean- 
while I availed myself of the spare time to frequently visit the 
shore, and take rambles in the neighborhood. But, though I find 
many things in my journal that might be worth mentioning at 
this period, yet there is so much to be said elsewhere, when I ar- 
rive on the actual field of my labors, that I must now hurriedly 
go over what more occurred at Holsteinborg. 

I here make a few extracts from my journal : 

"Jul// lolh. This afternoon Governor Elberg, with his lieuten- 
ant and wife, visited us, and were welcomed to the best of our 
power. I had promised the governor to show him a collection 
of arctic charts brought with me, and also the British Parlia- 
mentary Reports of the Searching Expeditions, and the works of 
Kane, Franklin, Parry, etc. ne was greatly interested, making 
many inquiries that I took pleasure in answering. A map of the 
United States much attracted his attention, and he asked several 
questions as to our home progress, and the rise of new cities, in- 
ventions, etc. Street-railroads were quite new to him, he never 
having heard of such in the Old Country. 

" He inquired very much about Mr. Grinncll, whose name is as 
familiar in Greenland as it is in the United States and Europe. 

"At our tea the governor partook of two dishes which he then 
tasted for the first time in Greenland, viz., fresh lobsters and cran- 
berry preserves. He pronounced them 'very good.' American 
cheese — with which he keeps himself well supplied — he also likes 
much. 



72 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

"After an interchange of friendly gifts — that from the govern- 
or being an Esquimaux suit of water-proof sealskin — our visitors 
took their departure, and were rowed on shore by girls, two of 
them very neatly attired in their native costume. 

" This day, in presence of Captain Budington and Lars Kleijt, 
I have had a prolonged conversation with Adam Beck, an Es- 
quimaux who acted as interpreter for Sir John Boss in 1850-1. 
Lars can talk much more fluently the English language than 
Adam Beck. The latter said : 

'"Captain Phillips' (who was with Sir John Boss) 'speak: 
"Adam Beck, plenty lie." Beck then paused a moment and add- 
ed, " Sir John Boss very good man — plenty pray — plenty eat — 
Carl Petersen no speak Husky (Esquimaux) quick — not good 
Husky speak — small speak Husky !" ' 

"Adam farther continued, and said 'he spoke with the Esqui- 
maux at Cape York. They told him two ships had been seen 
there ; that there were plenty of officers and men — much butter 
and much bread — ships go all to pieces — all die. Adam Beck 
speak to Petersen, lie! Petersen speak Adam Beck, lie! Carl 
Petersen plenty lie — d — d lie /' 

" Both Captain B and myself are satisfied that Adam Beck 

told to Sir John Boss exactly what York-Cape Esquimaux told to 
him. It seems that Commander Phillips and Carl Petersen re- 
peatedly told Beck that he was a liar, and otherwise abused this 
now almost wreck of a man ! The treatment Adam Beck re- 
ceived from Sir John Boss is remembered kindly to this day. 
Poor Beck was the instrument of communicating fabrications of 
Cape York Esquimaux, and for this English historians have writ- 
ten him down as the author, when it is not probable that he was, 
taking all the circumstances into consideration. The stigma cast 
upon him burns to his very heart's core to this day. Even here 
his name is blackened by the public notoriety given him abroad 
as the man who fabricated falsehoods relative to the destruction 
of two ships near Cape Dudley Digges, and the violent deaths of 
the officers and men supposed to refer to Sir John Franklin's Ex- 
pedition. 

" Who of us that has not done an act worthy to be so gener- 
ally condemned could stand up against this tide? Not one in a 
thousand would do it! Adam Beck is of the 999. He lives on 
the ' don't care principle.' He has lost all self-respect, for all shun 
him. I pity him from the bottom of my heart. Would that 



EXCURSION TO THE "WOMAN'S HOOD." 73 

cheering 'words like those Sir John Eoss was wont to utter when 
living could be whispered in his ear. Adam Beck is wretched 
— poor. He has an old, rickety, leaky boat, that some one has 
abandoned. That is all he has in this world, save the old skins 
on his back that once warmly covered him. I will strive to show 
him the respect due as a human being. Though he be an out- 
cast, I know there is in his breast a chord that will vibrate to 
kindness and humanity. 

"Saturday, July lith. This afternoon I started out for the 
mountains accompanied by Adam Beck. I had with me swing- 
ing from my shoulders my sextant and my glass, and in my pock- 
ets tape-line, geological hammer, chisel, and other traps. 

" After some distance we came to a river that it was necessary 
to cross, but for three miles we could find no practicable ford. 
At length I determined to strip and wade over, carrying my 
clothes and effects on my head. The water was intensely cold, 
and two winds met exactly in my passage, yet the scene was ex- 
traordinarily beautiful ! The golden sand under my feet — the dia- 
mond-shaped waves caused by the angular breezes — the arctic sun 
pouring down its bright, warm rays from just above the peaks of 
Greenland's mountains, and reflected from the sparkling waters 
around me, will never be forgotten. 

" On landing, I replaced my clothes and trudged along, gather- 
ing many beauteous flowers by the way. Up, up the mountain 
— steep following steep — away we went, leaving piles of stones — 
three stones in each (I said in my thoughts, ' Faith, Ilope, and 
Charity') — to mark the way on our downward path, for our route 
was heretofore unknown by the native or the European popula- 
tion. At length we came to the top of all save the last mountain, 
which was covered with snow. Here we found the steepness to 
be such that for a moment I hesitated ; but, determined to try and 
ascend yet higher, I made the attempt. Adam looked up and 
shook his head, actually falling to the ground, saying he ' would 
not, could not accompany me for the whole world !' Therefore I 
had to go alone. 

"The peak I was about to climb had the name of 'Woman's 
Hood,' and I started on my way up it with great caution, erecting 
piles of ' Faith, Hope, and Charity' at intervals, to guide me back. 
Kvery now and then I was obliged to desist. The sun in the 
northwest was pouring on my back compound rays, in addition 
to the dazzling glare reflected from the sea. The exertion made 



74 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

was immense. Frequently I had to dig out cracks between the 
rocks for both fingers and toes to hold on by. I dared not look 
around. I was unable to do any thing but go on. At length 1 
reached a lofty peak, and to my dismay beheld another beyond it, 
with a precipice between! For a moment I hung to the rock 
upon which I stood. I closed my eyes. I gradually opened 
them, with shaded hands. I gazed upon the awful depths be- 
low ; then, glancing round, I saw one of Nature's grand and 
mighty scenes. Mountains upon mountains, with great breaks 
between, burst on my view. On one side, the lake, river, and 
valley below, with Davis's Straits in the distance ; on the other, 
peak upon peak, to some five hundred, towering upward to the 
skies. Mount Cunningham, as the highest was called, was evi- 
dently inaccessible, and to attempt it would have been foolhardy. 
I therefore ended my journey here, erected a pile of stones, and 
then marking my name, began the descent. 

" I found Adam Beck anxiously waiting me, and, in due course, 
together we reached the town, where I procured a boat and got 
safely on board, well tired, but satisfied with my journey." 

Adam informed me that his children had no food, and though 
I had paid him well, and did for him all in my power, yet that 
could not help him much. The next day he, his wife, two chil- 
dren, and an infant at her back, went out in their rickety. canoe to 
try and catch fish for " poor picaninnies." 

The following is a fac-simile of Adam Beck's writing, when I 
asked him to put down his name and date of birth, which he did, 
adding the name of Sir John Boss. 



There is no C in the Greenland-Esquimaux alphabet, as already 
explained, and this accounts for its omission in the above. 

On the 16th of July we endeavored to return the many kind- 
nesses shown us by the good people of Holsteinborg by inviting 
them to a ball. The lieutenant governor -and lady, the school- 



DANCE ON BOAKD SHU'. 



75 



master and his wife, with their infant child at her back, and most 
all the town, were there. Never did the George Henry and her 
crew look happier, gayer, or present a more varied scene. With 
warm hearts, honest faces, and a ready mood for the fullest mirth 
of the hour, did we enter upon the festive day. 

The vessel was decorated for the occasion, and it would amuse 
many friends and readers at home were I able to give at length 
all that occurred. In this merry dance the Esquimaux did 
their very best, and our bold sailor-boys showed themselves not 
a whit behind. Even Captain B , Mate Eogers, and — my- 
self! had to join in the dizzy whirl. As for myself, I was pos- 
itively forced into it. In a jocular yet impressive manner, one 
and all insisted upon my treading on "the light fantastic toe." 
My hands were placed in those of two Esquimaux ladies, when I 
was fairly dragged into the dance ; and dance I did ! Yes, I 
danced; that is, I went through certain motions which in courtesy 
to me were called dancing, but what would the belles of my own 




1MNCE ON HOARD Till: i.vr.'.y. HF.MLY. 



country have said of it? I blush to think. However, it so hap- 
pened that nobody was hurt,' except a few of the Holsteinborg 
maidens, upon whose feet I had rather clumsily trod, and who 



76 ARCTIC KESEAKCH EXPEDITION. 

afterward went away limping, with a remark, " That man may be 
a good dancer" (I never danced before in all nry life), "but he's 
very heavy and far-reaching on his pedals !" As for the dan- 
cing, let me honestly confess that I felt the better for it. I am 
sure that many evils in my nature then found a way out at my 
feet. 

After the ball on deck, we succeeded in getting up some sing- 
ing below in the cabin. Among the Esquimaux, the schoolmas- 
ter — who is really a capital fellow — was the leader, and his sing- 
ing was truly excellent. There was, however, this singularity in it 
— many of the songs were to church tunes ! On our side, we had 
the national airs " Hail Columbia," " Star-spangled Banner," etc., 
which were vociferously cheered. While the latter was sung, I 
raised the silk emblem of our beloved country that was given me 
by a dear one at home to erect over Franklin's grave. The school- 
master, finding in "Eoss's Second Voyage" some Esquimaux 
verses, first read and then sang them most admirably. 

During the whole evening unbounded happiness reigned on 
board. Several presents were made, especially to the schoolmas- 
ter's wife, who received them with much modesty and pleasure. 
At length the party broke up, when our visitors departed for the 
shore in their numerous kyacks and family boats. 

On the 18th of July occurred the sun's eclipse. The view in 
Holsteinborg Harbor was fine, though a part of the time it was ob- 
scured by clouds. The Esquimaux were generally out looking 
at it with pieces of glass dipped in xualer I 

A singular fact in connection with this eclipse was told me by 
Mate Rogers. He said that "during it he and his party could 
catch no fish, though before and after it there was abundance ob- 
tained !" 

In the afternoon it began to blow a gale, and at the time nearly 
all hands were away on some duty or other. Mate Rogers and 

men were catching cod in Davis's Straits, and only Captain B , 

myself, and the young seaman, John Brown, were on board. The 
vessel began to drag her anchor, and, though we contrived to drop 
another, yet we were within a stone's throw of the rocky coast 
before she again held on. The three of us worked for our lives. 
John Brown put forth the strength of a giant, and myself and the 
captain did the same. Meantime our crew on shore had hastened 
off in a boat, and the governor had, in the midst of the gale, kind- 
ly sent another boat, with his superintendent and men, to our as- 



BOAT ESCAPE IN A STORM. 77 

sistance. These enabled us to make all secure on board ; but our 
anxiety now was no longer for the ship, but for Mate Rogers and 
those with him out seaward in Davis's Straits. It seemed impos- 
sible that any small craft could survive in such a storm. Our 
chances had been doubtful, even in a good harbor; what, then, 
had we reason to expect for the fate of those in a boat outside ? 
We felt dismayed, and eagerly were our glances bent in the di- 
rection our poor comrades had taken in the morning. Every 
glass was in requisition to catch a sight of them, but only the 
mountain waves dashing against the rock-ribbed coast, and send- 
ing their spray full fifty feet in the air, met our view. At last 

Captain B , who was aloft, cried out, " There they come ! there 

they come !" and, sure enough, we now saw them at a distance, 
struggling bravely, perseveringly, desperately, amid the roar and 
fierce turmoil of the wild sea threatening to ingulf them. Pres- 
ently they emerge from the confused mass of waters, and we be- 
hold them more distinctly. Oh, how they seem to strain each 
nerve ! How desperate their all but Herculean efforts to try and 
save themselves! One moment they appear to be lost; the next 
■we notice them again struggling on as determinedly as ever. 
" Pull, pull, for dear life's sake, my good men !" was the involun- 
tary cry of each on board ; and right bravely did they pull. On 
they come, thrown about and driven about in the very maddest 
of revengeful sport that Ocean and "Wild Storm could devise. At 
length they near the ship. A few strokes more — a well-directed 
movement of the steering-oar, and our beaten and exhausted com- 
rades are alongside ! Hurrah ! thank God, we have them safe on 
board ! 

It appeared that the gale had overtaken them suddenly, and at 
first they attempted to land upon an island, but this the breakers 
would not admit. There was no alternative, therefore, but to 
make for the ship as best they could. In doing so, a heavy sea 
struck the boat, overwhelming it and them. But now was the 
time for trial of the will and arm of man against winds and waves. 
Brave souls were in that boat, and Mat.; Rogers proved himself 
fully equal to the occasion. The boat was cleared, and stern, bold 
hearts defiantly pulled her onward to the ship, which they finally 
reached, utterly worn out by their fearful exertions. Now that 
they were safe, all their power was gone. A child could have 
overpowered the whole together. Wet, cold, and enfeebled, their 
case required immediate attention. Dry clothing, warm drinks, 



78 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and stimulants were at once supplied ; and thus, with careful treat- 
ment, they soon recovered. 

At 10 P.M. the gale had died away to a calm, and we all re- 
tired to sleep, completely exhausted with our bodily and mental 
labors of the past few hours. 

About this time I enjoyed a rare sight. One of the Esquimaux 
turned summersets in the water seated in his hyack! Over and 
over he and his kyack went, till we cried "Enough!" and yet he 
wet only his hands and face ! This is a feat performed only by a 
few. iu requires great skill and strength to do it. One miss in 
the stroke of the oar as they pass from the centre (when their 
head and body are under water) to the surface might terminate 
fatally. No one will attempt this feat, however, unless a com- 




ESQUIJIAUX FEAT — A 6UMMEESET. 



panion in his kyack is near. The next feat I witnessed was for 
an Esquimaux to run his kyack, while seated in it, over another. 
Getting some distance off, he strikes briskly and pushes forward. 
In an instant he is over, having struck the upturned peak of his 
own kyack nearly amidships, and at right angles, of the other. 
These feats were rewarded by a few plugs of tobacco. 

The day after the gale we had a mishap on board that threat- 
ened to prove serious, and, as it was, it detained us some days 
longer in Holsteinborg. Our anchors fouled, and, in trying to 
get one of them, the windlass gear broke. 

At this time our deck was crowded by the crews of both ves- 
sels, and Esquimaux men, women, and children, besides some dogs 



GOOD CHARACTER OF THE GEEENLANDERS. 79 

I had purchased for my future sledge traveling. These together 
presented a remarkably stirring picture, while the howling of the 
dogs, the sailors singing in chorus as they pulled on the ropes, 
with the varied voices of Americans, Esquimaux, French, Dan- 
ish, and Dutch, made a confusion of tongues somewhat akin to 
Babel. 

By noon all attempts to get the anchor, now the windlass was 
defective, proved vain. It was therefore decided to call upon the 
governor and ask him for his blacksmith to aid our Sterry in re- 
pairing the gear. Permission was instantly granted, but!*the in- 
jury done was of such a nature as to require days to make it 
good. The following day, however, we succeeded in hoisting up 
our faithful anchor, and it was then determined, as soon as the 
windlass was ready, to sail for the west or opposite side of Davis's 
Straits. 

While pulling on the ropes side by side with Esquimaux, I was 
strongly reminded of the opinion many civilized persons have of 
their savage and cruel nature. Why, instead of that, they are 
glorious good fellows. As for eating a man up, they would soon- 
er let a hungry man eat them out of all, without saying a word, 
unless it was " Welcome, stranger ! as long as I have, you shall 
share with me." This is just their nature. The time I was at 
Holsteinborg I saw much of the inhabitants, and my opinion as 
to their honesty, good-nature, good-will, and genuine hospitality 
is strong and unmixed. They possess these virtues to an em- 
inent degree. The. vices so prominent and prevalent in more civ- 
ilized communities are all but unknown here. The test they were 
put to on board the George Henry was enough to satisfy any man 
that they are honest, K umbers of Esquimaux, of all ages and of 
both sexes, were almost constantly on board, yet not the slightest 
thing was missed by any of us. We never thought it necessary 
to " keep an eye" on this or that, though their desire for any of 
our trinkets was ever so great. Wherever we placed an article, 
there we found it. 

Among other incidents well remembered of my stay at Hol- 
steinborg, I must not forget the garden attached to Governor El- 
berg's house. He was very proud of this garden, though there 
was but little in it. One evening he took me there. The radish- 
es and turnips looked flourishing, but they were diminutive in the 
extreme. Those I tasted were good. I relished them exceeding- 
ly, tops and all. 



80 . ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

I have mentioned purchasing here some dogs for sledge-work. 
They were six in number, and the governor kindly gave me his 
experience in selecting the best animals. I bought the six for 
about ten Danish dollars, equivalent to five dollars American. 
As these dogs will be frequently alluded to in my narrative, I here 
append a list of their Greenland names : 1. Kingolc ; 2. Barbekark : 
3. Ei — pronounced Ee; 4. Me-lak-tor — the leader; S.Me-rok; 6. 
Me-Mk, or Ki-o-lcoo-lik, afterward called Flora. 

For their food I purchased over two bushels of little dried fish 
("capelins")for twenty -five cents. 

At length the repairs of our windlass were complete, and on 
Tuesday, July 24th, a fair wind gave notice we were about to take 
our departure. Two pilots — Otto and Lars — came on board, and 
as some of our men had gone ashore, the colors were hoisted for 
their return. All was excitement. My letters for home had to 
be finished, and my last farewell uttered to kind friends. 

As I wrote in the cabin below, there was at my side a beautiful 
bouquet of arctic flowers in great variety, sent me by several of 
the Holsteinborg young ladies ; and I could not but feel, as I then 
expressed in my letter, astonished at the j^rofuseness of Nature's 
productions in that part of the world. 

Having finished my letters all but a few concluding lines, I 
was soon in a boat rowed by Esquimaux, and carried to the land- 
ing-place at the foot of a hill leading to the town. 

As we neared the shore, all the inhabitants — including dogs 
and goats as well as Esquimaux and Danes— covered the place. 
On the beach were the George Henry 's men just about to leave, 
having paid their farewell visit to the warm-hearted jDeople. 
Hearty cheers from the boat as it pushed off signified most clear- 
ly that not in words alone, but from the very soul, was meant 
" Farewell, good friends ; we thank you for your kindness, and 
will remember you forever !" To this the Greenlanders respond- 
ed by similar cheers, and I am sure with similar feelings. Indeed, 
the parting exhibited several scenes worthy of notice. Almost 
every evening during our stay in the harbor, our " boys" had been 
invited to dances with the Esquimaux. Acquaintance ripened 
as interviews increased. Friendships became firmly established, 
and, in some cases, love finally ruled supreme. On this parting 
I saw more than one pair of eyes moistened. I say it to no one's 
discredit. Many eyes of our people also were darkened as the 
gloom of separation came upon them. 



FAREWELL TO IIOLSTEINBORG. 81 

I hastened up to the governor's house with my letters. He 
and his deputy met me, and I was heartily pressed to enter. Ev- 
ery one knew of our early departure, and numerous boats full of 
Esquimaux were seen hastening to the vessel. But my own feel- 
ings at the time will be better expressed by the following extracts 
from my private journal: 

" Seated in the office-room, I added a few words to my corre- 
spondence home — to my dear ones, and to my noble friend, Hen- 
ry Grinnell. I then sealed up my letters and gave them to the 
governor, who kindly offered himself to carry the packet to God- 
haab, which place he soon intended to visit, and from whence a 
government vessel was to sail for Copenhagen in September. I 
was then invited down into the room where I had spent many 
pleasant hours with Governor Elberg. There I found awaiting 
the three parting glasses — one for me, one for the governor, and 
one for the lieutenant governor. Each had some good saying to 
utter. Blessings must and will follow to us all if kindly prayers 
can avail. With all my heart I thanked the governor for his 
great and increasing kindness to me while within his harbor; 
ay, more, I thanked him for his hospitality, which was overwhelm- 
ing. 

" My time was short. The lieutenant governor took me to his 
domicil. Then I hastened to the priest's, to bid Mrs. Kjer and 
Miss Biilou farewell. I then found the governor had ordered his 
boat to take me on board, he and the lieutenant governor intend- 
ing to accompany me. The ladies walked down to the landing 
with us, where I expressed a hope to have the pleasure of again 
seeing them after three or four years time in the United States. 
I especially promised that the lady who sometimes here is ' blue 
with cold' should never be so while there. A warm — a last shake 
of the hand, and I bid them an affectionate adieu. I was then 
carried away, amid the sorrowing hearts of many. * * * 

" On the 7th day of this month I rejoiced when I first put my 

foot where I was now bidding farewell in tears. Then I rejoiced 

(hat God had brought me in safety, thai I might put my foot upon 

arctic ground. Not a soul did I know in the whole North. In 

seventeen days I was acquainted with all Holsteinborg. I now 

leave it with regret. I sorrow at parting/rom so noble a people/ 
* * «• * 

" Kyacks in large numbers danced around us as wc made our 
way to the ship. I remarked to the governor that with all the 

F 



82 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

progress in ship and boat building of civilization, we had nothing 
in way of rowing with which we could equal the speed of a ky- 
ack. This is so. One Esquimaux with his kyack can outstrip 
any man or men among our people — or any other of the enlight- 
ened world — in rowing our boats. 

" When we got on board they were heaving up the anchor, and 
had nearly succeeded in getting under way, when, to the general 
consternation, our windlass broke again in a second place. Here 
was a dilemma. What to do was for a moment doubtful. To 
delay longer would be almost giving up the voyage ; to go to sea 
thus would be unwise. One remedy alone was open to us. Ster- 
ry declared he could manage it if we had the screw-plate and cer- 
tain gear in the blacksmith's shop that had been used in the re- 
pairs before. It was left to me to broach the subject to the gov- 
ernor, and after a consultation with him he generously granted 
what was desired. A boat was sent off for the articles, and upon 
its return sail was made on the ships. A last leave-taking in the 
cabin took place, and finally the governor, his officials, and all the 
good people of Holsteinborg left us under ideated cheers. A 
few minutes later, and Olio and Lars, the two noble pilots, also de- 
parted, and we were once more alone to ourselves, the Rescue fol- 
lowing us. 

"After our friends had gone I watched with long and eager 
gaze the receding mountains, especially the one I had ascended 
on July 14th. It was midnight, and the northern sky flooded in 
crimson light — the east and the west tinged with mellower hue — 
the long ridge of mountains, reaching far south, and far north 
sharply cutting their contour upon the sky, formed a glorious pic- 
ture to the eye ! The mountains looked black as Erebus in con- 
trast with the red and glowing clouds that were behind, so that 
only a profile could be taken of them. As they faded in the dis- 
tance, so was shut out the very spot where Holsteinborg lay ; but 
not so was effaced the memory of it and its generous inhabitants 
while life exists within me !" 



■'PERPETUAL MOTION." 83 



CIIAPTER IV. 

Crossing Davis's Straits. — Sea-sickness again. — "Perpetual Motion." — Changing 
Appearance and Movements of Icebergs.— Beautiful Sunsets and Morning Skies. 
— Refraction. — Nature on a Spree. — Distorted Moon. — Mountains ''hanging on 
a Thread." — God's living Arches. — "Merrie Dancers" in the Sky. — Approach to 
Land. — Fogs. — Another Gale. — Desperate Party of runaway Seamen. — Horrible 
Talc of Starvation and Cannibalism. — Anchor in Kowtukjua Harbor. 

The first clay or two after our departure, I had a repetition of 
my old complaint, sea-sickness. Here the dogs managed better 
than I. They could walk the deck ; / was unable. Perhaps 
having four props to my two considerably helped them. But 
the first night out we had a terrible shaking. - Davis's Straits 
was more like the broad ocean, and certainly as boisterous. If 
this Strait and Baffin's Bay were, as I suggest, called "Davis and 
Baffin's Sea," then could its billows roll high as the heavens, deep 
as the lowest depths, without our once thinking of their assum- 
ing to be what they are not. 

At about midnight I had bid farewell to Greenland, and — to my 
supper ! Talk of " perpetual motion !" Why has the world been 
so long in seeking out so simple a problem? Ask me — I used 
to say — ask poor sea-sick me if I believe in perpetual motion! 
A ship at sea is perpetually jumping up and clown, which motion 
would run a saw-mill — is perpetually rolling, and this would 
serve to turn a grindstone — and is perpetually creaking, see- 
sawing, pitching forward, and swinging backward. 

During the night "things in general" got capsized. I would 
not like to swear that the Gfeorge Henry turned a " summerset," 
but, on my honor, I can say that when I retired to my berth, an 
India-rubber cup lashed firmly on my writing-table, and holding 
a beautiful Greenland bouquet in water, was the next morning 
emptied of its contents, and every flower and drop of water scat- 
tered far and near, though the cup remained in its position ! Three 
half reams of paper, that had been placed securely over my bunk, 
and had there rested quietly all the previous part of the voyage 
from New London, were found scattered over an area of say sev- 
enty-five feet. One heterogeneous mass presented itself to all 



84 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



eyes in the morning. Medicine-chest and contents — guns and 
ammunition — my arctic library and the library of the George Hen- 
ry — geological and ornithological, cetaceous and floral specimens 
— sailors' chests — magnetic and astronomical instruments — pens, 
ink, and paper, charts and maps, etc., besides two human beings 
— the captain and myself — wrapped in deep slumber by their side. 
But soon out of all this chaotic mass we produced harmoii}' again. 
Things got into their places ; and I, by degrees, mastered my sick- 
ness, and was the man once more. 

On July 27th we had a heavy snow-storm, and soon afterward 
the land on the west side of Davis's Straits was seen, the mount- 
ains covered with snow ; but, owing to frequent fogs (sometimes 
it seemed to rain fog) and unsettled weather, we could not near 
the George Henry's destination, which was now changed to a place 
more south of Northumberland Inlet. "We came across but little 
ice, except bergs, and frecmently expressed much surprise at it. 
The icebergs, however, were numerous, and many of them deeply 
interesting — one especially so, from its vast height and odd shape. 
I say " odd," though that applies in all bergs, for no two are alike, 
nor does any one seem long to retain its same appearance and po- 
sition. The following is a sketch of one I called the Belted Ice- 




UKLTtU> 1CEUEIIO. 



GOTHIC ICEBERG. 85 

berg; but ice movements are as mysterious almost as the mag- 
netic pole. The captain told me that he had known two vessels 
to be beset near each other in the ice, and in a few days, though 
the same ice was around each vessel, yet they would be many 
miles apart! Bergs have been known to approach and recede 
from each other in as beautiful and stately a manner as partners 
in the old-fashioned, courtly dances of years gone by. 

Of the various bergs I particularly noticed, a few descriptive 
words may here be said. The first view of one that attracted my 
attention looked as if an old castle was before me. The ruins of 
a lofty dome about to fall, and a portion of an arched roof already 
tumbling down, were conspicuous. Then, in a short time, this 
changed to a picture of an elephant with two large circular tow- 
ers on his back, and Corinthian spires springing out boldly from 
the broken mountains of alabaster on which he had placed his 
feet. The third view, when at a greater distance, made it like a 
light-house on the top of piled-up rocks, white as the driven snow. 
It took no great stretch of fancy to finish the similitude when the 
sun to-day, for nearly the first time during a week, burst forth in 
all its splendor, bathing with its flood of golden fire this towering 
iceberg light-house ! 

Another berg I could not help calling the Gothic iceberg. 




GOTHIC 1CZJJE&G. 



The side facing me had a row of complete arches of the true 
Gothic order, and running its whole length were mouldings, 
smooth projections of solid ice, rivaling in the beauty of all their 
parts any thing I ever saw. The architecture, frieze, and cornice 



86 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

of each column supporting the arches above were as chaste and 
accurately represented as the most imaginative genius could con- 
ceive. Here and there I saw matchless perfection displayed in 
the curvature of lines about some of its ornamental parts. Spring- 
ing out from a rude recess, away up in its vast height, I saw a 
delicate scroll, which was quite in keeping with Hogarth's "Line 
of Beautj-." 

As I was gazing npon one of the many bergs we passed, it 
overturned, and burst into a thousand fragments ! 

Relative to the formation of these icebergs, Sterry — upon whose 
authority alone I mention it, and who is entitled to his own the- 
ory upon the subject — told me that, at a place between two 
mountains in Northumberland Sound, he once counted something 
like a hundred strata of ice that had been deposited, one layer 
each year. They were of various thicknesses, each course marked 
by a deposit of sediment like dirt. He did not complete count- 
ing the number of layers, as the height would not admit of his 
doing so. 

On our way across Davis's Strait, not far from Cape Mercy, we 
passed the spot where, in 1856, the British discovery-ship Res- 
olute had been found by the very vessel I was now on, the George 
Henry. 

I have just been describing the beauty of icebergs as seen on 
our way across ; let me now attempt to picture some of those gor- 
geous sunsets and phenomena of Nature we witnessed. I extract 
from my diarj^ at the time : 

"July 2&th. This evening the whole horizon has presented a 
most beautiful sight. A zone of rich mellow purple, with match- 
less tints darting upward to the height of some thirty degrees, met 
the eye. Then all at once, as the sun disappeared, the purple was 
replaced by a deep blue. As to the 'tints' of which I write, I am at 
a loss to describe them. Take a thousand rainbows — stretch them 
around the horizon — intermix them — entwine them — spin and 
twist them together, and you have the appearance of those tints 
crowning that zone, first of purple, then of blue. 

" July 31st. Strange sights to-night. Looking through my ma- 
rine glass to the northeast, when the sun was about three degrees 
above the horizon, I was astonished at the view before me. 
Mountains, islands, icebergs, and the sea were in one vast confu- 
sion. From the sun northerly to the southeast, wherever I turn- 
ed my glass, confusion worse than things confounded met my 



NATURE OX A SPREE. 87 

sight. A little reflection, however, brought me to a realization 
of the fact. The extraordinary appearance of every thing at and 
beyond the horizon was from 'refraction,' so called. 

" We speak of this and that ' looming up' at home, but little did 
I think what it signified until this night. Mountains far distant 
— mountains whose true position was considerably below the hor- 
izon — were now considerably above it, and icebergs dangling from 
their tops! This refraction? It was Nature turned inside out! 
Nature turned topsy-turvy ! ! Nature on a Spree ! ! ! Yes, Na- 
ture on a spree ! 

" As I went forward I was met by many of the crew (those 
now on their first vo}*age to these regions), who called my atten- 
tion to some icebergs ahead that looked just like ' Bunker's Hill 
Monument,' only much higher. A few moments before, I had 
noticed these bergs as mere pigmies. Now the pigmies had be- 
come giants ! ' Nature on a spree' had given to mere snowballs 
on the horizon all the beauty and symmetry of ' Bunker's Hill 
Monument,' running high up, in alabaster columns, to prop the 
azure sky ! 

" Soon the moon came rolling up ; and what a phase or face it 
showed, with its wofully distorted countenance ! I took my Nau- 
tical Almanac for the year (1860), and there found, " August 1st," 
the sign for Full Moon ! The large round circle stared me in 
the face. There could be no mistake. A moon ' as big and round 
as a cart-wheel' — as we boys used to say — should be the aspect 
of fair Luna in the heavens this night. But here was the rising 
moon 'up to time,' yet where was the full moon? The moon as 
it ought to be was a moon somewhere else, not here ; for, as it 
ascended above the horizon, its lower limb was like a crushed hat. 
then as a drunkard's face — fiery-red, and swollen out to its utmost 




DISTORTED HOUS. 



88 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

limit of expansion ! Sketching as it then appeared, the preceding 
may give the idea, so unnatural was the goddess as she arose from 
her ocean bed to-night. But this, however, did not last long. A 
few moments sufficed to carry her upward in her regal course be- 
yond the influence of ' Nature on a spree,' and a short time after- 
ward, as I looked again, I found 

" ' How calmly gliding through the dark blue sky, 
The midnight moon ascends.' 

"August 6th. Going on deck this morning, found Nature again 
on a spree. I have been observing its working for two hours. I 
will record some of its phenomena. 

" When I first observed the unnatural appearance of the bergs, 
sea, and islands toward the southwest, the morning sun was ten 
degrees high, and shining brightly. The barometer then stood 
29.35 inches, the thermometer 41°, wind blowing moderately from 
southwest. Looking to windward, I saw the top of a distant berg ; 
then all at once a snow-white spot, not larger than a pin's head, 
appeared in the clouds hanging directly over the- berg. In a few 
seconds it enlarged to the size of an Egyptian pyramid inverted. 
At every roll of the vessel this resplendently white pyramid 
seemed to descend and kiss the sea, and then as often ascended 
again to its celestial throne. 

" Dioptrics, the science of refracted light, may satisfactorily ac- 
count for all this, but I very much doubt it. Some land that was 
seventy-five miles distant, and the top of it only barely seen in an 
ordinary way, had its rocky base brought full in view. The 
whole length of this land in sight was the very symbol of distor- 
tion. Pendent from an even line that stretched along the heav- 
ens was a ridge of mountains. 'Life hangs upon a little thread,' 
but what think you of mountains hanging upon a thread? In my 
fancy I said, if Fate had decreed one of the sisters to cut that 
thread while I witnessed the singular spectacle, what convulsions 
upon the land and the sea about us might not have followed? 
But Nature had an admirable .way of taking down these rock 
giants hanging between the heavens and the earth. Arch after 
arch was at length made in wondrous grandeur from that rugged 
and distorted atmospheric land ; and if ever man's eye rested upon 
the sublime, in an act of God's creative power, it was when he 
arcuated the heavens with such a line of stupendous mountains ! 
Between these several mountain arches in the sky were hung ice- 
bergs, also inverted, moving sileutly and majestically about as the 



BEAUTIFUL SUNRISE. 89 

sea-currents drifted those along of which they were the images. 
In addition to all this there was a wall of water, so it appeared, 
far beyond the usual horizon. This wall seemed alive with mer- 
ry dancers of the most fantastic figures that the imagination could 
conceive, and its perpendicular columns were ever playfully 
changing. Oh, how exquisitely beautiful was this God-made liv- 
ing wall ! A thousand youthful forms of the fairest outline seem- 
• ed to be dancing to and fro, their white arms intertwined — bodies 
incessantly varying, intermixing, falling, rising, jumping, skip- 
ping, hopping, whirling, waltzing, resting, and again rushing to 
the mazy dance — never tired — ever playful — ever light and airy, 
graceful and soft to the eye. "Who could view such wondrous 
scenes of divine enchantment and not exclaim, ' Lord, how 
manifold are Thy works ! In wisdom hast Thou made them all ; 
the earth is full of Thy riches !' 

"August 8th. The sunrise this morning was fine. Long before 
the sun came to the horizon the clouds were all aglow ! They 
were in long, narrow belts, one overtopping another, the lower 
edges of all visible and pendent, reflecting the crimson of the 
sun's rays. To attempt to paint the beauty, the glory of this 
scene, either by my pen or by the pencil of any mortal artist, 
seemed to me like a sacrilege. God often shows to the world His 
power and goodness, but seldom does He beautify earth for man 

to completely feel it is heaven before him !" 

-:; *:- : :- # * * * 

Our progress toward the harbor we wished to reach was very 
slow. At length, on July 30th, we were within three miles of 
" Sanderson's Tower," on the west side of entrance to Northum- 
berland Inlet ; but as it was late, and the wind unfavorable, we 
had to go seaward for the night. The following day head winds 
and calms still retarded us, and we were now also anxious for our 
consort, the Rescue, she having parted from us a short time previ- 
ously. The place we wanted to reach was called by the Esqui- 
maux Ookoolear, now named by me Cornelius Grinnell Bay, the 
anchorage being in about latitude 63° 20' N. For several days 
we had been struggling against strong breezes, and on the 2d of 
August we had only about six miles more of southing to make ; 
but a very thick fog again came on, and once more we had to 
stand off to sea. 

On the 4th we were not far from Ookoolear, and occasional!)- 
hopes arose that wc might reach an anchorage before night. But 



90 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

it was not so. A dozen times was the ship headed for our har- 
bor, and as often were we baffled by the fog. Sometimes it would 
disperse, leaving the heavens bright aud warm ; then would our 
gallant barque be swiftly plowing the deep toward the wished- 
for haven. Suddenly the fog again descended, enveloping us in 
the gloom of night, so that we could not see a quarter of a mile in 
any direction, and then once more would the vessel's course have 
to be arrested. So it continued all day, and toward evening the 
annoyance was increased by a heavy gale. Of course there was 
no alternative but to run off the land to- sea, and accordingly it 
was done. 

The next day, when the weather moderated, we made sail back 
toward our harbor, and at 8 P.M. we were near the same position 
as on the 4th, still more than thirty miles distant from where we 
had to go. Fogs then encircled us, and thus we were till the fol- 
lowing day, when more clear weather appearing, Oookoolear was 
seen, and ahead of us were observed " Sterry's Tower," " Eogers's 
Island," and " Sarah's Island." 

• As we were standing in to the land, the Rescue, under good sail, 
was discovered away near the mountains. 

At this time a circumstance occurred that startled myself and 
all on board beyond measure. I will relate it from my journal 
as I find it recorded at the time. 

" Tuesday, August 1th. After dinner I had gone and perched 
myself up in one of the whale-boats hanging over the ship's side, 
for the purpose of viewing the mountain scenery as we passed 
along, and also sketching. I had my marine glass with me, and 
during an interval when the fog — which now and again settled 
upon us — disappeared, I swept the horizon all around. As I look- 
ed easterly, my eye caught a strange black sail. Directing the 
captain and mate's attention to it, they examined, but could not 
make out what it was. At length we decided that it was a whale- 
boat with dark-colored sails, and approaching us. Nearer and 
nearer it came, though yet far off; for when I had first seen it, re- 
fraction had made the small sails loom up higher even than those 
of a 300-ton vessel. By this time every one on board was anx- 
iously looking to the strange boat, wondering what it was, com- 
ing from a direction seaward. After watching it more than an 
hour, we noticed that the sail was taken down, and soon afterward 
we lost sight of the boat entirely. In vain our glasses were 
pointed in the direction she was last seen. Nothing could be ob- 



THE RUNAWAYS. 91 

served of her, and many began to think we bad been deceived by 
refraction; but at length the captain exclaimed,' 'I can now see 
the boat, though a mere speck. I should not wonder if it is one 
of my own left here on the last voyage, and manned by Esqui- 
maux.' I looked long and attentively. At last I saw the flash 
of oars following each stroke, as the dazzling ra} r s of a western 
sun fell upon the uplifted blades. I could see nothing else but 
these oars, and to me it seemed as if the rowers were pulling 
quickly — desperately. The excitement now became great among 
us, especially as the distance decreased between the boat and the 

ship. Captain B thought it was an Esquimaux crew, and 

Mr. Rogers said the men were white. 

"As they neared, it struck me that the rowers — now to be seen 
more clearly — might be some shipwrecked mariners pulling for 
dear life ; and to ascertain this, the ship was deadened in her way. 
In a few moments more the strange boat was near enough to 
make her crew out for white men, nine in number ; and directly 

they got alongside, a question was put by Captain B as to 

who they were. The steersman promptly answered, ' Crew from 
the AnseU Gibbs, of New Bedford.' In reply to another question, 
he said, ' We are from the north, and bound to the south.' This 
was enough to satisfy us that they were runaways. 

" In a few minutes a variety of questions was put as to the 
number of ships, the whaling, etc., in Northumberland Inlet, where 
we conjectured the AnseU Gibhs to be ; and then the inquiry was 
made of them, ' You are runaways, are you not ?' The response 
immediately was, ' Yes, we are !' They then told us that they 
had left Kingaite, in Northumberland Sound, on Saturday, August 
2d, at 11 P.M., and had thus run the distance, 250 miles to where 
we met them, in less than three days. The reason they gave for 
deserting their ship was because of 'bad treatment on board,' and 
'not having enough to eat.' They explained about this, and 
added much more, which may or may not be true. At all events. 
they made up their minds to start for the I r nit>A States on the first 
chance, and this they did by taking a whale-boat, two tubs of 
whale-line, three harpoons and as many lances, a 'conjuror' — that 
is, a portable cooking apparatus — two guns and ammunition, a 
small quantity of provisions, a few blankets, and other trifli 
things; and this to go a voyage over a tempestuous sea, part of 
it often full of ice, and along an iron-bound coast, for a distance 
of say 1500 miles ! However, there they were so far. One in- 



92 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

strument — a compass — only for navigation ; no sextant or quad- 
rant ; no one in the boat capable of taking observations had they 
possessed instruments, and without food enough to carry them 
on. The chief of this rash crew was John Giles, a ' boat-steerer,' 
which means, in whaling parlance, one who has charge of the 
boat and crew when out whaling. Only two of the company bad 
ever been to sea before, and those two had been on whaling voy- 
ages to 'Desolation' Island in the South Seas. They were all 
young men — Americans belonging to various places in the East- 
ern States. 

" When Captain B— — had asked several cpaestions, the chief 
of these unfortunate men modestly supplicated for some food, as 
they were all very hungry. This was immediately responded to 
by the captain saying ' Come and eat ;' but at first they hesitated, 
fearing they might be arrested. But hunger prevailed, and, mak- 
ing secure their boat, they entered the ship, and fell to upon the 
salt junk and biscuit like hungry wolves. Never before did I 
see men eat with such avidity and relish. To them it was a feast, 
having had only half a biscuit each and one small duck among 
the whole number during the past day. 

" I found that nothing would alter their purpose as to proceed- 
ing on their desperate voyage. They meant to strike for York 
Factory in Hudson's Bay; but on my showing them a chart and 
the course to Besolution Island, thence across Hudson's Strait to 
Labrador, this latter course was decided upon, with the hope that 
fishermen might pick them up. 

"The captain kindly gave them some beef and pork, powder 
and shot, and a chart. To this I also added some ammunition 
and caps. 

" They remained with us about two hours, and then, after de- 
ciding to go on, instead of landing for the night (perhaps they 
were still fearful of being captured), they got into their boat, and, 
with many thanks to us, started on their perilous voyage. 

" I watched them long as they passed away from us bending 
to their oars. It was 9 P.M. when they departed. The moon 
was shining brightly in the east — the alabaster mountains of ice 
were scattered about upon the darkening waters — the craggy 
rocks sharply cut their black profiles against the distant sky, and 
the winds were gently but coldly blowing in sad harmony with 
the occasion. As they vanished from my view I said to myself, 
'Will the civilized world ever see these desperate men again ? It 



LAST SIGHT OF THE RUNAWAYS. 



93 



is next to a miracle if so. And yet what lesson do they teach 
me ? If these nine men can undertake such a voyage, and un- 




MY LAST SIGHT OF Till: RUNAWAYS. 



der such wretched circumstances, with so little preparation, why 
should not I, having far better means, be able to accomplish mine? 
For themselves, I added, ' God be with them !' I know not how 
just or unjust their cause may be, but I do know that human 
life is now at stake, and my sympathy goes with them.' " 

Before I pass from this strange occurrence, it will be better to 
give the sequel of their history, so far as yet known, through three 
of the wretched crew who reached Indian Harbor, Labrador. The 
following particulars I gleaned at St. John's, Newfoundland, on 
my way home in the fall of 1862. 

It seems that a Captain Nathan Norman, who does business in 
Labrador, and is also a magistrate, encountered the survivors of 
this boat's crew, and, hearing their tale, demanded from them a 
statement in writing ; whereupon one of them, Sullivan by name, 
drew up an account, the original of which is in my possession. 
It was given to me by Eobert Winton, Esq., editor and proprietor 
of the St. John's Daily News, through C. 0. Leach, Esq., United 



94 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

States consul at that place. The following is a verbatim copy of 
Sullivan's written statement, made in the fall of 1861 : 

"My name is John F. Sullivan. I left ray home in South Iladley Falls, Mass., 
about the 1st of March, 1SC0, for Boston. I remained in Boston uutil the 20th of 
the same month. I applied at different offices fur a chance to ship ; being a stranger 
in the place, and a green hand, I found it very difficult to get a berth to suit mc. 
At last I got a little discouraged, and that day signed my name at No. 172 Com- 
mercial street, Boston, and left for New Bedford, Mass. Next morning I shipped to 
go aboard of the ship Daniel Webster, then laying at New Bedford, but to sail the 
same day on a whaling cruise to Davis's Straits, to be gone 18 months. 

"I left New Bedford in the Daniel Webster on the 21st of March, 18G0. There 
were forty of us in the crew, all told. We had very rough weather for many days 
after leaving, which caused many of us to be sea-sick ; I suffered from it about three 
weeks ; after that time I began to recruit. There was nothing happened of any 
consequence worth mentioning until we passed Cape Farewell, about the last of 
May. After that we had quite a hard time, working the ship through the ice; oc- 
casionally, however, we made out to get her through, and came to anchor, July 0, 
1860. 

"We spoke many vessels going in. I will name some of them: the Hannibal, of 
New London ; the Black Eagle and Antelope, of New Bedford ; the Ansell Gibbs, of 
Fairhaven ; the Pioneer, of New London. These vessels were anchored very close 
to one another in the harbor; the crews were at liberty sometimes to pay visits to 
each other; each one would tell how he was treated; several complained of very 
bad treatment, especially the crew of the Ansell Gibbs; they were planning some 
way of running away for a long time, but they found no opportunity till the 4th of 
August. 

"My shipmate, whose name was Warren Button, was aboard that day, and heard 
a little of the conversation, and he joined in with them, and said he would go, and 
perhaps one or two more of his crew. He immediately came aboard and informed 
me ; and he pictured every thing out so nice', that I finally consented to go with 
him. We had no great reason for leaving our vessel ; we could not complain of 
very bad treatment aboard ; all we could complain of was that we were very badly 
fitted out for such a cold climate ; and, after we arrived there, hearing of so many 
men that died there the last winter of scurvy, we were afraid to remain there, for 
fear that we might get it. We thought by running away, also, we would be all right ; 
but we were sadly mistaken. 

"After it was agreed upon to leave, each one was busy making preparations for 
a start. I, with my shipmate, packed what few things we thought would be neces- 
sary into a traveling-bag which belonged to me; we then crept into the hold, and 
filled a small bag and a pair of drawers with hard bread, and waited for an oppor- 
tunity to hide it on deck, unknown to the watch. After we succeeded in that, we 
made a signal to the other crew that we were ready. It being boats' crew watches 
aboard the Ansell Gibbs, they every one of them left ; they found no difficulty in 
lowering away the boat, which after they did so they lowered themselves easily into 
her, and soon paddled under our bows; we then dropped our traps into her, and, 
taking with us two guns and a little ammunition, got into her, and soon pulled 
around a small point out of sight of the vessels. The names of the crew that left 
the Ansell Gibbs arc as follows: John Giles, hont-steerer, John Martin. Hiram J. 
Davis, Williard Hawkins, Thomas Colwell, Joseph Fisher, and Samuel J. Fisher. 

"At 11 o'clock at night, on the 4th of August, we left the vessels in Cumberland 



STARVATION AND CANNIBALISM. 95 

Stmts, latitude G5° r>9', about five miles from Penny's Harbor. Although it being 
a little foggy, with a fair wind we stood across the Straits. When about half way 
across we dumped overboard a tub of towline to lighten the boat some. \Vc had 
nothing but a small boat-compass to guide us ; we had no opportuuity of getting a 
chart before we left, and not much of any thing else. 

''We made the other side of the Straits by morning; then, by taking the spy- 
glass, we thought we could perceive a sail in chase of us, but we soon lost sight of 
her. The other crew were depending mostly on us for bread, as my shipmate in- 
formed them we had a better chance to get it out of the hold ; their bread lay close 
to the cabin ; so, what bread they had, with oars, would not exceed more than twenty 
pounds. We all saw that the bread would not last long, so each one desired to be 
put on allowance of one biscuit a day to each num. We hoped, by the time that 
was gone, to reach some place where we would find help. We made a very gooil 
run the first three days, sleeping at night in the boat; on the fourth day out we fell 
in with the barqne George Henry, Captain Budington, of New London. He asked 
us aboard ; the boat-stecrer acted as spokesman. The captain told us we were very 
foolish to leave the vessels to undertake so long a trip. I believe he would have 
taken us all if we wished to stay ; but as we had left a whaler, we did not like to go 
on board another, as he was also going to remain there through the winter ; so we 
were determined to push along, as we had been foolish enough to start in the first 
place. However, before we left, he gave us a small bag of bread, a piece of salt pork, 
and some ammunition ; also a chart. We then bade him good-by, and set oft' again. 
That night we made a 'lee,' found some moss, and made a fire; before we ran in 
we shot a small duck, which made a good stew for all hands. Two days after this 
we shot a white bear; he was in the water when we shot him, and there being a 
heavy sea on at the time, we could get no more than his hind quarters in ; them we 
skinned — the rest we could not save. That night we managed between us to cook 
it, as we were divided into watches, two in each watch ; by doing so, we could watch 
the boat and keep her with the tide. We kept on in this way, always tracking the 
shore, and at night going ashore to lay on the rocks, with our boat's sail over us for 
shelter. 

"We had very rough weather in crossing the Straits. We were on Resolution 
Island four days, waiting for a fair wind ; we got it at last, but so strong that it came 
very near swamping our little boat many times through the night. It kept two of 
us bailing water out all the time, and we were glad to reach the land, after being in 
the boat thirty hours, wet to the skin. What bear's meat and bread we had was 
most gone by this time ; there was nothing left but a few crumbs in the bottom of 
the bag. There was nine parts made of the crumbs ; then they were caked off, 
each man taking his share. 

"On the ICth of August we made Cape Chidleigh ; on the 20th we divided the 
last crnmbs; after that we picked up what we could find to eat. We found a few 
berries and mushrooms ; we suffered very much from the cold, very seldom having 
a dry rag upon us. 

"We continued on in this condition until the 3d of September, when, to add to 
our misfortune, W T illiard Hawkins and Hiram J. Davis (who we called ' the doctor') 
ran away from ns that night, and took with them every thing that was of any use 
to us; they even took the boat's compass, and left us in a miserable condition, with 
our boat broadside on the beach. It being their watch, they made out to get off. 
We thought it was useless to make chase after them, so we let them go. It then 
commenced to rain, and there was a heavy sea rolling in, and, weak as we wire, wo 
found some difficulty in shoving the boat off. However, after n hard tug, wc sue- 



96 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

cceded, and then pulled out some ways ; we then up sail ; it was not up long before 
it blew so strong that it carried away the mast. We then ran in under a jib, and 
made a lee. About half an hour after we landed my shipmate died of starvation. 
The evening he died, Samuel Fisher proposed to eat him ; he took his knife, and 
cut a piece off the thigh, and held it over the fire until it was cooked. Then, next 
morning, each one followed his example; after that the meat was taken oft" the 
bones, and each man took a share. We stopped here three days. We then made 
a start ; but the wind being ahead, we were obliged to put back. Here we stopped 
two more days. During that time the bones were broken up small, and boiled in a 
pot or kettle we had ; also the skull was broken open, the brains taken out, and 
cooked. We then got a fair wind, but as we got around a point, we had the wind 
very fresh off shore ; we could hardly manage the boat ; at last we drove on to an 
island some ways out to sea ; we got the boat under the lee of it ; but the same 
night we had a large hole stove into her. Being unable to haul her up, we were 
obliged to remain here eight days : it was on this island they tried to murder me. 

"The third day we stopped here, I was out as usual picking berries, or any thing 
I could find to eat. Coming in, I chanced to pick up a mushroom. I brought it in 
witli me ; also an armful of wood to keep. While kneeling down to cook the mush- 
room, I received a heavy blow of a club from Joseph Fisher, and before I could get 
on my feet I got three more blows. I then managed to get to my feet, when Samuel 
Fisher got hold of my right arm ; then Joseph Fisher struck me three more blows on 
the arm. I somehow got away from them, and, being half crazy, I did not know 
what to do. They made for me again ; I kept begging of them, for God's sake, to 
spare my life, but they would not listen to my cries. They said they wanted some 
meat, and were bound to kill me. I had nothing I could defend myself with but a 
small knife; this I held in my hand until they approached me. Samuel Fisher was 
the first to come toward me ; he had a large dirk-knife in his hand ; his cousin was 
coming from another direction with a club and a stone. Samuel came on and 
grasped me by the shoulder, and had his knife raised to stab me. I then raised my 
knife, and stabbed him in the throat ; he immediately fell, and I then made a step 
for Joe ; he dropped his club, and went up to where the rest was. I then stooped 
down to see if Samuel was dead ; he was still alive. I did not know what to do. 
At this time I began to cry ; after a little while the rest told me to come up ; they 
would see there was nothing more done to me. I received four deep cuts on the 
head ; one of the fellows dressed them for me, and washed the blood oft' my face. 
Next day Samuel Fisher died ; his cousin was the first one to cut him up ; his body 
was used up the same as my unfortunate shipmate's. 

"After a while we managed to repair the boat, and left this island. We ran in 
where we thought was main land, but it proved to be an island ; here we left the 
boat, and proceeded on foot, walking about one mile a day. At last we reached the 
other side of the island in four days ; then put back again to the boat. It took us 
four days to get back again. When we got there, we found tho boat was stove very 
bad since we left her. We tried to get around the island in her, but she sunk when 
we got into her ; we then left her, and went back again to the other side of the isl- 
and, to remain there until we would die or be picked op. We ate our boots, belts, 
and sheaths, and a number of bearskin and sealskin articles we had with us. To 
add to our misery, it commenced to rain, and kept up for three days; it then began 
to snow. In this miserable condition, we were picked up by a boat's crew of Esqui- 
maux on the 29th of September, and brought to Okoke on the 3d of October. The 
missionaries did all that lay in their power to help us along, and provided us with 
food and clothing, then sent us on to Nain, where we met ' the doctor,' who was 



AKKIVE AT CORNELIUS GUINXELL BAY. 97 

picked up three days before ivo were. He reported that his companion died, and 
told many false stories after he was picked up. 

"The missionaries of Nam helped us on to Hopedale ; from there we were sent 
■ m to Kibokok, where two of 11s remained through the winter. One stopped with a 
planter, named John Lane, between Nain and Hopedale; the doctor stopped with 
John Walker until March, when he left for Indian Harbor; the remaining two, Jo- 
seph Fisher and Thomas Cohvell, also stopped with planters around Indian Harbor. 
Mr. Bell, the agent at Kibokok, kept two of us until we could find an opportunity of 
leaving the coast. Wo left his place about the 10th of July, and came to Macovic. 
waiting a chance to get off. 

" Captain Human has been kind enough to give mo a passage; my companion was 
taken by Captain Hamilton, of the Wild Rover. We have had a very pleasant pas- 
sage so far, and I hope it will continue so. 

"Sir, I hope you may make it out; it is very poor writing, and was written in 
haste. . John F. Sullivan." 

In addition to the above, Mr. Leach kindly furnished me with 
the following information in a letter dated Feb. 25th, 1863 : 

" Mr. Kenneth M'Lea, Jr., merchant of Newfoundland, informs 
me that he has had letters from the missionary settlements on the 
coast of Labrador, in which they say these men conducted them- 
selves ' shamefully.' Instead of feeling grateful for the hospitality 
they received, they demanded to be supported with the privilege 
of doing as they pleased. I understand one of them still remain- 
ed at Labrador. No doubt the rest have shipped under assumed 
names, feeling ashamed to return to their native country." 

Soon after the boat, with its desperate crew, had left us, we 
were passing one of the channels leading to the long-sought bay. 
This bay is a very fine sheet of water, and is protected by " Sa- 
rah's" Island at the entrance. Its length is about fifty miles, and 
its width six miles. On entering it by the south channel we were 
becalmed, and the boats were set to work towing us in ; but, 
though we were up all night, next morning saw us still at some 
ten miles' distance from our harbor. At this time a perfect flotilla 
of boats were discovered approaching us. They were six whale- 
boats, fully manned, five belonging to a ship called the Black 
Eagle, Captain Allen, and one to the Rescue. As soon as they 
arrived, quietly greeting us, they wheeled in line ahead of our 
own boats, and aided in towing us in. An interesting seen. ]■■ 
was before and around us : eight boats in line, pulling the ship 
onward, with brawny arms at the oars, and merry voices pouring 
forth the sailor's songs as measured and uniform strokes gave 
even time to the movement; the still waters of the deep bay, 
the perpendicular rocks by our side, and the craggy mountains 

G 



98 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



overhanging our heads, their peaks reaching up as if to kiss the 
clouds ! 

At noon, August 8th, 1860, we reached our anchorage, and at 
length were secure in the harbor we had so long been seeking. 
The Rescue had anchored before us. 




IOF.KEHU AND Kl-k. 



the innuits, ou Esquimaux. 99 



CHAPTER V. 

Visited by the Natives. — Brief Account of some of them. — A very aged Woman. — 
Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo. — A numerous Family. — Ugarng and his thirteen Wives. — 
Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — Kudlago's Widow, Kok-er-jab-in. — "Blind George.' 
— Excursion on Shore. — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs. — Beautiful Scenery. — 
How Nature splits huge Rocks. — An Alabaster Cave. — Arctic Food. — First Taste 
of Bear-meat. — Americanizing Kim-mi-loo. — A Blind Man threading a Needle 
and mending Clothes. — Astonishment created by a Magnet. — Ugarng and the 
Quicksilver. — Author's narrow Escape from Death. — Geological Character of the 
Bocks. — Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay. — A Cruise in the Rescue. — Ar- 
rival in new Waters. 

Previous to our anchoring, Captain Allen, Mates Lamb and 
Gardner, joined us on deck, bringing with them an Esquimaux 
named Ugarng, and others of his people. Several women were 
also ou board, dressed in the peculiar costume of the West Land 
natives ; but not until we had dropped anchor could I do more 
than give a passing glance at these strange-looking figures. The 
excitement consequent upon arriving in a new place was naturally 
great on my mind. The land around me — its inhabitants, its rug- 
ged hills, its mountain tops covered with snow, all belonged to that 
especial part of the northern regions connected with the ultimate 
field of my labors. When, however, the vessel was made station- 
ary, and the greatest excitement had abated, I could better exam- 
ine our visitors, and never shall I forget the first impression they 
made upon me. 

It has been said b}- a well-known witty writer, now deceased, 
when referring to the Esquimaux, in an arctic book he was re- 
viewing, that they are "singular composite beings — a link be- 
tween Saxons and seals — hybrids, putting the seals' bodies into 
ih<ir own, and then incasing their skins in the seals, thus walk- 
ing to and fro, a compound formation. A transverse section 
would discover them to be stratified like a rolly-polly pudding, 
only, instead of jam and paste, if their layers were noted on a per- 
pendicular scale, they would range after this fashion : first of all, 
seal — then biped — seal in the centre with biped — and seal again 
at the bottom. Yet, singular enough, these savages arc cheerful, 
and really seem to have great capacity for enjoyment. Though 



100 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

in the coldest and most comfortless dens of the earth, they are 
ever oil the grin, whatever befalls them. When they see a white 
man and his knickknacks, they grin. They grin when they rub 
their noses with snow, when they blow their fingers, when they 
lubricate their hides inside and out with the fat of the seal. Tru- 
ly, then, as Sterne says, ' Providence, thou art merciful T " 

The above description must speak for itself; but, without en- 
dorsing more than its reference to the good-humor of the Esqui- 
maux, I must say that, whatever they may be pkj-sically and so- 
cially, they are undoubtedly a kind-hearted, hospitable, and well- 
disposed race of beings. On my first meeting with them, at the 
time I am writing of, in Cornelius Grimiell Bay, I was much struck 
by their peculiar dress and good-natured features. The women 
especially attracted my attention, and I could not but think of old 
Grimes — " that good old man" — in his long-tailed coat. The dif- 
ference, however, in the coats of these Esquimaux women and that 
of old Grimes is that they do not button down before. In truth, 
there is no button about these arctic coats. They have a long, 
neatly-worked flap behind, with a baby pouch on the shoulders, 
and are slipped over the head like a frock. But a full descrip- 
tion of their dress will be given in a chapter devoted entirely to 
the manners and customs of these singular people. 

Among the visitors on board when we anchored were a few 
who will frequently figure in my narrative. Ugarng, who has 
been already named, was a very prominent character, and it seems 
to me well to give some account of him and his famiby, especially 
as the history of most all the Innuits I met is so full of strange 
adventure, and so indicative of their peculiar customs, that it can 
not fail to be interesting. The particulars were gathered only 
at intervals long after my first acquaintance with the parties. 

At the time of which I write there lived in the neighborhood 
of my explorations a very aged and singular woman called Oo- 
ki-jox-y M-noo. This patriarchal dame was born on an island 
named An-nan-ne-toon, situated on the north side of HudSbn's 
Strait, and when I first saw her I believe she could not have 
been less than one hundred years old. She was an important 
personage among her people, and, as the reader will find, proved 
of much service to me from the knowledge she had of Innuit tra- 
ditions. 

Now this woman had been married to a man called Pkr-hoo-nc- 
me-loon, who had also, at the same time, a second wife, Poor-loong- 



00-KI-JOX-Y NI-NOO. l(jl 

wong, sister of Ookijoxy Ninoo. By the second wife he had 
three children, with whom we have nothing to do. But by the 
former he had eight sons and daughters, and at length died in a 
good old age, leaving his other wife to survive all her own chil- 
dren except the Ugarng already named. 

The progeny of this old woman was as follows : 

1st A daughter, that died at its birth, owing to an accidental 
fall previously received by the mother while playing ball in the 
spring. 

2d. A daughter, Tou-yer-nud-loon, who grew up to womanhood, 
a large, strong woman. She married a Pim-ma-in* or chief, who 
was considered a very smart Innuit. After many years she had 
by him two children, and at the birth of the latter she died. The 
infant was then allowed to die, because, as was told me, "it was 
impossible to take care of it ;" and two or three days afterward 
the husband also died. With regard to this woman, it was con- 
sidered among the Innuits impossible to tell which looked oldest, 
her mother or herself. 

3c/. A daughter, called Noo-ker-pier-ung, who was born not far 
from Newton's Fiord, in Frobisher Bay. She married a man 
named Oo-yung, and these were the parents of E-bier-ling, a per- 
son who will often appear as a very important character in my 
narrative. The mother died about 1852. 

4tth. A son, New-wer-kier-ung, who married, first, a cousin of 
Ebierbing's wife, the intelligent Tookoolito, by which cousin he 
had a boy ; secondly, a woman called E-ker-too-kong (" Polly," as 
we named her), by whom he had many children, who all grew 
very fast and fat, but died young. He died before his wife, and 
she then married a fine, bold, and — to white persons as well as 
his own people — most kindly-disposed, humane man, christened 
by us "Bob" — his Innuit name, King-wat-che-ung. The wife was 
a half-sister to another good but afflicted man, called Pau-loo-yer. 
or, as I always styled him from his loss of sight, "Blind George.' - 
Of him I will speak presently. 

The fifth child of the old woman was Ugarng, whom I shall 
bring forward in a moment. 

The sixth was a daughter, An-ner-surng, who married Mik-e- 
lung. They had two or three children, but one of them, E-ter- 
loong, a little boy, cross-eyed, was almost always by his grand 
mother's side, and was evidently regarded by her as a pet. 

The seventh child was also a daughter, Kood-bo-loon, who mar 



102 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ried a brother of one " Chummy" (a man that visited the States 
in 1861-2). By him she had two children ; one died young, and 
the other is now living and married. 

The eighth and last child was another daughter, Oo-yar-ou-ye- 
iing, who married and had two children, a boy and girl. The 
latter was named Oo-kood-lear, and I was well acquainted with 
her. 

These were the children and grandchildren of old Oo-ki-jox-y 
Ni-noo. Now let me turn to the account of Ugarng. 

This man was born at or near Newton's Fiord, in Frobisher 
Bay, and was about 50 or 55 years old. From his early days he 
displayed great qualities as a daring and successful hunter. Many 
of his well-attested exploits border on the incredible, so marvel- 
ous did they seem. Not a few, possibly, I shall be able to relate 
farther on. Perhaps, however, not among the least of them may 
be considered the fact that he had had no less than thirteen wives; 
and, at the period I formed his acquaintance, had three living 
with him. His first wife, Ak-chur-e-you, he left, long before she 
died, because she bore him no children ; his second, Oo-soo-kong, 
gave him a son and daughter; both, with herself, dead. The 
third wife was alive, but left at Paclley. Afterward she had two 
children by another man. The fourth also had two children by 
another man ; the fifth hung herself after giving him a daughter, 
now 14 years old. The sixth — still alive, and related to Tookoo- 
lito — had no children; the seventh was Kun-ni-u, whom I shall 
frequently name. She likewise had no children up to the time 
of my last seeing her; the eighth was Kou-nung, who had two 
children by another man — the children now grown up and mar- 
ried. The ninth was Eok-kong, or Pun-nie, his present second 
wife, but with no children ; the tenth was Ak-chuk-er-zhun, who, 
however, left him and went to live with Kooperneung (" Charley"), 
a man I often afterward employed. The eleventh wife of Ugarng 
was Nik-u-jar (" Polly"), by whom he had a child called Menoun, 
about three years old when I last saw it. N&cujar died while I 
was up there. She had been the wife of Blind George, already 
mentioned, but left him a few years after he became blind. 

Ugarng was a remarkably intelligent man and a very good 
mechanic. He had several excellent traits of character, besides 
some not at all commendable. 

In 1854-5 he was on a visit to the States, and among his remi- 
niscences of that visit he said about New York. "G — d — ! too 



UGARNG.— "BLIND GEORGE."— KOK-ER-JAB-IN. 103 

much horse — too much house — too much white people. Women? 
ah ! women great many — good I" 

I now bring forward another man, already mentioned, Pau-loo- 
yer, or "Blind George." Of his parentage there is but little 
known, even by himself, except that his mother hung herself. 
He was born about 1819, and when young the Innuits took care 
of him. He grew up and became one of the first Escpiimaux of 
his place. He was an excellent pilot, greatly attached to Ameri- 
cans, and very desirous of learning their language. He married 
the Nik-u-jar already spoken of, and by her had three children. 
The first was born in the spring of , and had black spots cov- 
ered with hair on its body. It died before six months old. 

In 1852-3 he became blind through an epidemic that took off 
very many of the natives. His second child also died ; and the 
third, born in 1856, was an interesting girl called Eoo-koo-yer. 

Xikujar continued with her poor blind husband for five years 
after his affliction, and they were always attentive and kind to 
each other. But, as he was unable to work, she accepted the of- 
fer of Ugarng to become his principal or family, that is, household 
wife. She took with her the little girl Koohooyer, and Ugarng 
became partial to it, and as he was a bold, successful hunter, gen- 
erally contrived to provide for all his household, and even many 
more, without stint " George," though greatly attached to his 
child, knew it was for her advantage to be with her mother, and 
thus allowed her to go, though occasionally seeking for her com- 
pany with him. 

I shall frequently speak of this afflicted Innuit in my narrative, 
and therefore have mentioned these particulars. 

Another person to be referred to here is Kok-er-jab-in, the wid- 
ow of Kud-la-go. She was born at Kar-mo-wong, on north side 
of Hudson's Straits, probably about the year 1814. She had had 
three husbands, the first being a tall, stout man, called Koo-choo-ar- 
chu ("Sampson"), by whom she had one son, Ning-u-ar-pi-ng. But 
this husband she left because he added another woman to his 
household. Her second husband was An-you-kar-ping, a fine, 
powerful man. He was lost by the upsetting of his ki-a.* When 
the ki-a was found it was broken into fragments, and it is thought 
by the Innuits that he had attacked a hooded seal, which in re- 

* The Greenland term for a boat or ennoe containing one man is Ky-aclc, but 
among the Innuits I was acquainted with Ki-a is the word, and such I henceforth 
use. 



104 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

turn, ferociously attacked and destroyed him and his boat. By 
this husband she had one son, often mentioned in my journal as 
" Captain." Her third husband was Kudlago, who had also been 
previously married to a woman named Ne-ve-chad-loo, by whom 
two daughters, Kok-er-zhun and Kim-mi-ho, were born to him. The 
first of these was a pretty young woman, aged twenty-three, and 
married to Shi-mer-ar-chu ("Johnny Bull"), who was always ex- 
ceedingly jealous of her. Kimmiloo was an interesting girl of 
about sixteen years old. By Kok-er-jab-in no children were born. 
She and her third husband did not get on happily together. On 
one occasion this woman was nearly dead from a severe dropsical 
complaint. The angeko was then called in, and his wife's brother 
undertook to perform an operation for her cure. This he did in 
the following manner: Ebierbing held Kokerjabin while the op- 
erator, with a sort of lancet having a blade three inches long, 
stabbed her quickly and forcibly in the abdomen. Water poured 
forth copiously and soon after this she recovered. 

At the time of my first arrival among these Innuits, several of 
them were in different places hunting and fishing; but I afterward 
became so well acquainted with them, and was on such familiar 
terms, that they and others I shall introduce seemed almost of my 
own family. 

But I will now proceed with my own personal narrative. 

In the afternoon, accompanied by Sterry, Gardiner, and Lamb. 
I went on shore. There I visited several of the natives in their 
tupics — summer skin-tents. 

The honesty of this people is remarkable. I noticed on the 
beach coal, wood, four tubs of whale-line, tar, oil-casks, mincing 
machine, coils of rope, trying kettles, harpoons, lances, etc., all left 
here since the previous fall, and yet as safe as on board the ship ! 
Another trait of their character, however, is not at all commend- 
able. One of the first things attracting my attention, close to the 
tents, was the skeleton of an Innuit, or Esquimaux woman, just 
as she had died some three years before ! She had been sick, and 
was left to take care of herself. The remains of her tent — her 
skin bedding, her stone lamp, and other domestic articles, wert 
still by her side. This inattention to the sick and dead is a cus- 
tom of the Esquimaux, and, in another place, I shall again refer 
to it. 

When I returned on board, Kudlago's wife had just arrived. 
She had heard on shore of her husband's death, and at once, with 



DOG BARBEKARK. 105 

her son (the daughter not arriving till next day), hastened to the 
ship. Sorrowfully, and with tears in her eyes, did the poor Es- 
quimaux widow, Kok-er-jab-in, enter our cabin. As she looked 
at us, and then at the chest where Kudlago had kept his things, 
and which Captain Budington now opened, the tears flowed fast- 
er and faster, showing that Nature is as much susceptible of all 
the softer feelings among these children of the North as with ub 
in the warmer South. But her grief could hardly be controlled 
when the treasures Kudlago had gathered in the States for her 
and his little girl were exhibited. She sat herself down upon the 
chest, and pensively bent her head in deep, unfeigned sorrow; 
then, after a time, she left the cabin with her son. 

The following day I again went on shore for an excursion up 
the mountains, " Captain," a lad about fifteen years of age, accom- 
panying me. My dogs had been landed immediately upon our 
arrival, and now greeted me with much joy. Poor creatures, how 
they liked once more to bury their shaggy, panting bodies beneath 
the snow ! They skip, they run, they come and look, as if grate- 
ful, in my eye, and then bound away again in the wildest exuber- 
ance of animal spirits. 

I have before mentioned some particulars of these dogs, and I 
now relate an anecdote concerning them during our passage 
across from Greenland. 

One day, in feeding the dogs, I called the whole of them around 
me, and gave to each in turn a capelin, or small dried fish. To do 
this fairly, I used to make all the dogs encircle me until ever}' 
one had received ten of the capelins apiece. Now Barbelcark, a 
very young and shrewd dog, took it into his head that he would 
play a white man's trick. So, every time he received his fish, he 
would back square out, move a distance of two or three dogs, and 
force himself in line again, thus receiving double the share of any 
other dog. But this joke of Barbekark's bespoke too much of the 
game many men play upon their fellow-beings, and, as I noticed 
it, I determined to check his doggish propensities ; still, the cun- 
ning, and the singular way in which he evidently watched me, in- 
duced a moment's pause in my intentions. Each dog thankfully 
took his capelin as his turn came round, but Barbekark, finding 
his share came twice as often as his companion-;', appeared to 
shake his tail twice as thankfully as the others. A twinkle in 
his eyes, as they caught mine, seemed to say, " Keep dark ; these 
ignorant fellows don't know the game I'm playing. I am con- 



106 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

founded hungry." Seeing my face smiling at his trick, he now 
commenced making another change, thus getting three portions to 
each of the others' one. This was enough, and it was now time 
for me to reverse the order of Barbekark's game by playing a trick 
upon him. Accordingly, every time I came to him he got no 
fish; and although he changed his position rapidly three times, 
yet he got nothing. Then, if ever there was a picture of disap- 
pointed plans — of envy at others' fortune, and sorrow at a sad mis- 
fortune — it was to be found on that dog's countenance as he 
watched his companions receiving their allowance. Finding he 
could not succeed by any change of his position, he withdrew 
from the circle to where I was, and came to me, crowding his way 
between my legs, and looked up in my face as if to say, "I have 
been a very bad dog. Forgive me, and Barbekark will cheat his 
brother dogs no more. Please, sir, give me my share of capelins." 
I went the rounds three times more, and let him have the fish, as 
he had shown himself so sagacious, and so much like a repentant 
prodigal dog ! 

This dog Barbekark afterward again made himself remarkably 
noticed, as I shall have occasion to relate. He shared all my la- 
bors with me, and was here as my companion in the States, until 
he died a few months back. 

I now return to an account of my excursion on shore. 

The day was bright and lovely when I ascended the mount- 
ain. Beautiful crimson snow lay about by the side of large patch- 
es of the purer white, and as I traveled on, my heart felt as light 
and buoyant as the air I breathed. The scenery was grand and 
enchanting. Two or three lakes were passed, one of them half a 
mile long by the same in width, with its waters at a temperature 
of 38°, and as clear as crystal, so that the bottom could be dis- 
tinctly seen. It had deep snow-banks all around it, and yet, to 
my surprise, musquitoes were floating on and over its surface, 
breeding by myriads. Some beautiful falls were situated here, 
walled in by huge mountains and their fragments. Many of these 
were enormous rocks, apparently capable of being easily set in 
motion by a man's power with a crowbar, so delicately were they 
poised upon each other. The frozen waters of winter have been 
doing wondrous work in throwing down these mountains. If 
water can find a crack in rocks, they are sure to be broken 
asunder. 

The inventions of men give them easyjjower to split rocks 



MOUNTAIN EXCURSION.— BEAUTIFUL VIEW. 107 

that arc massive and hard. This is done by drilling holes and 
entering steel wedges, which are acted upon by slight blows. 
Another way is to drill deep into the rock and charge with gun- 
powder. But God has Ills way of splitting rocks ! He uses the 
little snow and rain-drops. They find their way into every re- 
cess. Crevices are at length filled with solid ice. They are en- 
larged ; chasms now yawn ; another winter, and down from their 
rude heights the cliffs fall, making the earth to quake in her 
career ! 

There were many, very many rocks that would be cast from 
their places, high up the mountains, on the next spring. A per- 
son can hardly conceive the quantity of rock that is lifted from 
its base every season by the freezing of water. 

Never can I forget the visit I made on this excursion to the 
stream that runs wildly down the mountain's side, between the 
first and second lakelets, near Koiv-tuk-ju-a — Clark's Harbor. 

For one third of a mile the stream was covered with a huge 
pile of snow. I crossed to the upper part of this with my Esqui- 
maux boy, and went down to the stream itself to slake my thirst. 
I kneeled and drank of the sparkling waters. As I looked round 
before rising, what did I see ? a cave of alabaster ! snow-arch- 
es, numberless and incomparable ! At a point where several arch- 
es commenced to spring were pendent finely-formed icicles, from 
which poured, perpendicular to the earth, unbroken streams of 
water, having the appearance of inverted columns of crystal sup- 
porting the arches. The number of these columns was great. 
Away, far down the cave, through which the stream passed, all 
was dark — dark as Cimmerian darkness. 

From this I turned my eyes upward. Overhanging my head 
were pinnacled mountains 1000 feet above me. Far as the eye 
could see they extended. On my still bended knees, I thanked 
God that I lived to behold how manifold and wonderful was the 
world's creation. None but God and that untutored Esquimaux 
saw me there, amid the roar of that mountain waterfall, offering 
up this, my heart's prayer ! 

While there I gave the dogs some dinner (capelins), and then 
had my own along with the Esquimaux. A good appetite made 
Lisfa the sea-biscuit and Cincinnati pork, and then, after rest- 
ing a while, I began the return journey. I had ascended to a 
t of about 1500 feet above the sea, and two miles from the 
beacli, making a collection of various geological and other speci- 



108 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

mens; but these latter I unfortunately lost. On my way down, 
a good snow-slide, for about a quarter of a mile, on an angle of 
50°, carried me swiftly on, and, in due time, I got back to the 
tents, where a score of Esquimaux at once kindly greeted me. 
Away from all the rest, seated alone among the rocks, I saw Kud- 
logo's widow, weeping for the loss she had sustained. Her son al 
once went and tried to console her, but she would not be comfort- 
ed, and her grief was allowed to have vent unrestrained. 

The next day we had for dinner salmon, venison, and bear- 
meat ! It was then I took my first lesson in eating the latter. 1 
found it passable, with a taste somewhat akin to lamp-oil, but yet, 
on the whole, good. 

A few days afterward I made another excursion ; and as I pass- 
ed on my way up the mountain steeps, flowers greeted me at ev- 
ery step I took, lifting their beautiful faces from behind the gray 
old rocks over which I was passing. At length I reached a 
height beyond which I could mount no farther. Under the 
friendly shelter of a projecting cliff, I sat myself down amid the 
most luxurious bed of sorrel that I ever saw. I made a good 
feast upon it, and in ten minutes I could have gathered a bushel, 
it was so plentiful. 

"While here I had a look around. What a magnificent picture 
was before me ! The bold mountains across the bay, with higher 
snow-capped ones behind them ; the waterfall of 500 feet ; the 
George Henry, the Rescue, and Black Eagle, lying at anchor be- 
neath the shadow of those mountains, and the Esquimaux village 
low at my feet, was an admirable subject for a sketch. 

I seized my pencil, but paper I had left behind. Still I was 
not to be balked. I had a new clay pipe in my mouth. I took 
this pipe and inspected the bowl. A little fancy-line ran down 
its centre opposite the stem. This line would serve to represent 
the dashing, foaming waterfall before me ; the plain surface on 
each side would do for the sketch. This I made ; and such as it 
then was is here presented to the reader, even as I hoped I might 
be able to do, under the title of the "Pipe Sketch." 

After this I gathered a bouquet of flowers, some geological 
specimens, and returned. 

On my way I again met Kudlago's widow and another Esqui- 
maux woman. As we passed a place where some tents had for- 
merly stood, Koher-jab-in called my attention, with tears in her 
eyes, to the spot where her husband had his tent when be bade 






AMERICANIZING KIMMILOO. 109 

her adieu on his visit to the States in 1859. She lifted up a por- 
tion of the back-bone of a whale which was bleaching near bj, and 




jft.- 45SL 




l*m SKETCH — TLAr.K'rt DAEUOK. 



said it was of one Kudlago had killed. Her tone, her manner as 
she spoke, was truly affecting, and I have no doubt she felt deep- 
ly the loss she had sustained. 

On August 11th, among the Esquimaux arrivals was Kudla- 
go's idol — a pretty little girl. She looked sad for the loss of her 
dear father. But how her eyes sparkled in the afternoon when 
several things were produced that her father had carefully gath- 
ered for her ! The account of her first arrival I find in my jour- 
nal as follows : 

"Kimmiloo has just been Americanized. Captain B 's 

good wife had made and sent to her a pretty red dress — a neck- 
tie, mittens, belt, etc. 

" Mr. Rogers and I, at a suggestion from me, thought it best to 
commence the change of nationality with soap and water. The 
process was slow, that of arriving to the beautiful little girl, 
whom we at length found, though deeply-imbedded layer after 
layer in dirt. Then came the task of making her toilet. With 
a very coarse comb I commenced to disentangle her hair. She had 
but little that was long, the back part from behind her ears hav- 
ing been cut short off on account of severe pains in her head. 
IIow patiently she submitted to worse than the curry-comb proc- 
ess I had to use 1 This was the first time in her life that a comb 
had been put to her head. Iler hair was filled with moss, seal, 



HO ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and reindeer hairs, and many other things — too numerous to call 
them all by name. Poor thing ! yet she was fat and beautiful — 
the very picture of health. Her cheeks were as red as the blown 
rose. Nature's vermilion was upon them. 

"A full hour was I before getting that child's hair so that I 
could draw the coarse end of a coarse comb through it ! At last 
that job was completed. Her little lingers quickly braided a tag 
of hair on each side of her head. Then I gave her two brass 
rings (which is the fashion among the Esquimaux women) through 
which to draw the hair. The skin trowsers and cbat were thrown 
off, and the red dress put on." 

Many Esquimaux now visited us, and from them I tried to ob- 
tain all the information I could as to my intended journey to- 
ward King William's Land. I also discussed the question with 
Captain Allen, of the Black Eagle, who I soon found well capable 
and willing to advise me. It was, however, too late in the season 
to attempt commencing the journey then, and this all of those with 
whom I conversed, Esquimaux and white men, told me. I had 
therefore to wait, and meanwhile make myself well accustomed 
to the sort of life I should have to endure while actually prose- 
cuting my undertaking. 

A day or two afterward I was showing Kimmiloo, Ookoodlear, 
and Shookok (pretty little Esquimaux girls) the pictorial illustra- 
tions in a number of the Family Bible, when "Blind George" 
came on board. When I asked him his name, he said, in Esqui- 
maux, " George — poor blind George, as Americans call me." 

" What is your Innuit name ?" said I. " Pau-loo-yer," was the 
response ; and then immediatcby added, " What is yours ?" I told 
him, and after repeating it several times till he had pronounced 
it correctly, he was satisfied. I explained that the prefix " Mr.'' 
to the "Hall," which I had casually given, was an address ap- 
plied to men ; whereupon, soon afterward meeting the steward 
and blacksmith, and hearing them called by those terms, he at 
once said " Mr. Steward — Mr. Blacksmith." I tried to explain 
the difference to him, and it was not long before he understood 
me. He was quick to perceive mistakes, and, when he saw an 
error of his own, had a hearty laugh over it. He made all his 
clothes — sealskins ; and the way he threaded his needle was most 
amusing and singular. He took the eye end of a needle between 
his teeth, bringing the needle into proper position, and then placed 
it on his tongue near the end. He next brought the end of his 



BLIND GEOKGE AND THE MAGNET. HI 

thread toward the eye of his needle, and, after several trials, the 
thread was finally drawn through the eye by his very sensitive 
tongue. He then grasped with his lips and teeth the end of the 
thread, and thus the needle was threaded! I have seen "Blind 
George" thus thread his needle, time and again, in ten seconds ! 

"Wishing to test his quality as a tailor, I gave him one of my 
coats to mend in the sleeve. It was full of rents, but to only one 
did I call his attention. I left him at his work ; and being myself 
afterward busy at something else, I had forgotten him. When I 
again went to him where he was generally seated in the main 
cabin, he had every breah mended, and all his work well done/ 

I took out my little magnet and put it into his hands. He 
passed it through and through his fingers, and then I placed the 
armature upon it. This was a mystery to him. The Escpimaux 
exclamations that escaped his lips were numerous and amusing. 
I then took the armature and gave him a sewing-needle, bringing 
it and the magnet together. This was also wondrous to him. It 
was many minutes before he became satisfied it was really so. 
He would pull one end of the needle off the magnet, and when he 
let go it would fly back. The approach of an armature to a mag- 
net, both in his hands, also greatly surprised him. As they came 
near and he felt the attractive power, he instantly threw them 
aside, and it was some time before I could get him to make anoth- 
er trial. Still more careful was he the second time. The contact 
was at last made, and made quick as lightning, but just as quick 
did he drop the two. Finding, however, that he was not injured, 
and that the little girls were enjoying a hearty langh at his ex- 
pense — they having before tried it — he at last succeeded. I next 
tried him with a paper of needles, desiring him to bring the mag- 
net near them. He did so, but at the cost of my time and pa- 
tience, as I had to pick them up from all parts of the cabin. On 
discovering that the needles had sprung from his hand, he acted 
as if smitten by a thunderbolt, throwing needles, magnet, and all 
helter-skelter away ! and still more, he at once declared I was an 
An-ge-ko I 

At this time Ugarng was often on board the ship, and one day 
I was much amused at his vain attempts to pick up some mercu- 
ry which I had out upon a sheet of white paper. The metal as- 
sumed a globular shape, and looked precisely like shot made of 
tin. Now the mercury thus presented to his view seemed to be 
quite beyond his comprehension. Generally, an Esquimaux is 



112 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

stoical under all circumstances, no matter how startling they may 
be, but here was something that completely upset his equanimity. 
After nearly half an hour's attempt to understand the lively sub- 
stance before him, and to grasp it, he gave up, and also lost his 
temper. He burst out in some broken words, like oaths he had 
heard on board ship, declaring the d — 1 was in it, and nothing else. 

A short time after our arrival at this anchorage I had a narrow 
escape of my life. It was most providential. No other arm but 
the Almighty's could have shielded me from so imminent danger 
as that to which I had been exposed. In the afternoon I went 
down seaward for the purpose of examining some rocks. I had 
with me my revolver, pencil, and portfolio. The stratification of 
these rocks was very remarkable, and for several rods I saw a 
quartz vein running as straight as a line N.N.W. and S.S.E. Its 
dip was 60°, and in thickness one and a half to two inches. Ev- 
ery where around, the fallen ruins of mountains stared me in the 
face. I was perfectly astonished at the rapidity with which huge 
rocks had evidently been rent to pieces. I also saw, standing by 
themselves, square pillars of stone, the strata of which were com- 
pletely separated, so that I could take them off one by one, as 
leaves of paper. Some were an inch, half an inch, two inches, and 
others six inches thick. Anxious to obtain some specimens, I 
was engaged, with my knife, digging out some quartz and gold- 
like metal, slightly bedded in a fresh -broken rock before me, 
when, as I leaned forward, the revolver fell from my belt, and in- 
stantly exploded close to my hand and face ! For the moment I 
thought myself dangerously wounded, so great was the pain I ex- 
perienced in my hand and forehead ; but the next instant I ascer- 
tained that the ball had just cleared me, merely forcing the pow- 
der into my hand, forehead, and round my right eye. It was a 
narrow escape, and a warning thereafter to be more careful how I 
left the hammer of any gun or pistol I had about me. 

The rocks about here were indeed very remarkable. One pile 
consisted entirely of mica, quartz, and feldspar ; and the nearest 
approach I can give to its appearance is to let the imagination 
conceive that the feldspar was in a state like putty, and worked 
up into various uncouth figures, the spaces between each filled up 
with mica and quartz. Then would there be an appearance sim- 
ilar to what I observed on these rocks, only that ages and ages 
should be added to cut out deeply the mica and quartz, leaving 
the pure quartz veins almost unaffected. 



STERRVS TOWER. 



113 



On the 14th of August the brig Georgiana, belonging to the 
same owners as the George Henry, arrived from some other -whal- 
ing-ground. Thus four vessels were now near each other, the 
Black Eagle, Georgiana, Rescue, and our own ; and a very sociable 
and agreeable time was spent, during leisure hours, in visiting 
each other. But none of us were unnecessarily idle. Prepara- 
tions had to be made for the coming winter, and for whale-fishing 
while the season yet lasted. The Blade Eagle and Georgiana had 
their own plans, but that of the George Henry was to visit another 
and smaller bay on the south side of this inlet. Meanwhile Cap- 
tain Budington had erected a stone and turf house for the benefit 
of his boats' crews, when, as was intended, some of the men should 
be stationed there "to fish." The roof was made from timber, 
with canvas well coated with tar over all. 

On the 16th we sailed for Nu-gum-mi-uke, the intended win- 
ter quarters of the George Henry and Rescue. As we left the bay 
— which I have named after my kind friend, Cornelius Grinnell — 
we passed several prominent places, and among them Sterry's 
Tower. The following is a sketch of it : 




BTEEEY'M TO WEE- 



The next day, in company with many of the natives, we arrived 

H 



114 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

at Nu-gum-mi-uke (a bay that I named after Cyrus W. Field, one 
of the promoters of my expedition). The harbor we entered was 
hard to find, but it was thought to be perfectly safe. Soon after- 
ward the ship and her crew made ready for whaling; but for nry- 
sclf, I determined upon mixing unreservedly with the natives, 
and for this purpose tried to secure Ugarng as a guide and com- 
panion. I presented him with a beautiful ivory-handled knife, 
given to me by " Wayne & Son," of Cincinnati, hoping this would 
lead to good results. He was much pleased with it, and said, in 
his own tongue, Icuoy-en-na-rnik (I thank you). 

Ugarng's wives were really good-looking, and capital workers, 
chewing more seal, reindeer, and walrus skins for boots and mit- 
tens than any other women of the country. This chewing proc- 
ess will be described at another time; but I may here observe 
that it is one of the principal modes of making the skins pliable, 
and changing them into any desired form. It is a labor always 
performed by females, never by men. The Innuit women also 
washed clothes, and soon became so proficient that they could do 
them as well as Americans. One morning I gave my clothes to 
be washed by a woman called Nukertou, and by the evening she 
returned the articles to me completed and in good order. Ugarng 
gave me an excellent pair of native boots, made by one of his 
wives, and, in return, I presented her with some brass rings, which 
the women greatly prize for doing up the hair. 

Wishing to visit some of the innumerable islands that lay scat- 
tered about the bay, and also place my dogs on some place best 
suited for them, where the remains of a whale were found, I took 
three Esquimaux boys and little Kimmiloo in the boat with mc 
to pull. I accomplished my errand, and, on the return, much en- 
joyed the sight of my crew, including the girl (all fresh types of 
the Iron race of the North), smoking with pipe in their mouth, 
and, at the same time, pulling heartily at the oars ! 

On Monday, August 20th, after tea, the captain, myself, Smith, 
Steny, Morgan, and Bailey took a boat, and went out a ducking. 
The wind was blowing fresh from the northwest, therefore we beat 
to windward. On the way we killed five ducks — a sport that was 
exciting enough, though not remunerative, five or six shot hav- 
ing to be expended in killing one duck. While tacking, I lost 
my venerable hat — the one I punctured with a pike when rais- 
ing it high in the air on top of the first iceberg I visited. 

On the 21st of August, at 7 A.M., the Rescue was got under 



A CRUISE IN THE EESCUE. 115 

way for the purpose of taking a party of us over to an inlet on 
the opposite side of Field Bay. It was intended by the captain 
to examine this and other places to see their availability for fish- 
ing depots, and I gladly took the opportunity of accompanying 
him. 

"While heaving up anchor, an incident occurred that served 
well to illustrate the character of the Iunuit Ugarng. His third 
wife, Kun-ni-u, with the captain and myself, were at the windlass 
brake, and it was quite an amusing sight to behold us. Pres- 
ently we had to stop for a moment, and, on commencing again, 
Kunniu could not quickly lay hold ; whereupon her husband, 
who was standing by, looking on with a sort of dignity, as if he 
were lord of all he surveyed, at once ordered her to go ahead : 
and when she grasped the brake, he turned and strutted about the 
deck in quite an independent manner. 

Two boats had to tow us out of the harbor, owing to there be- 
ing no wind, and we passed through a channel between two small 
islands that was probably never navigated before. One man 
went aloft to con the way, and I stood on the bow to watch for 
rocks under water. Several I saw far down — some at five and 
ten fathoms deep, and looking white and yawning ; but they were 
harmless, even had they been much nearer the surface, for the 
Rescue, only drew eight feet water. 

At 8 A.M. a light breeze filled the sails, and, taking up our 
boats, away we went across the waters of the bay. A course 
nearly due south was steered, somewhat westerly of Bear Sound, 
and in due time we approached the opposite shores, where some 
wild and rooky, but magnificent scenery was presented to our 
view. At 2 P.M. we turned into one of three or four entrances 
that led, by a safe channel, into a long and beautiful bay. On 
either side of us were towering mountains, one especially of a 
bold and lofty character, with its peak looking down majestically 
into the waters below. 

The breeze had now somewhat freshened from the N.E., and 
was sending us along full five knots an hour. Great was the ex- 
citement; most exhilarating the whole scene. "We were in wa- 
ters quite new to us, and approaching Frobisher Straits — then, at 
least, so believed by me. Our lady-Esquimaux pilot, Kunniu, 
guided us safely on, but care was also needed ; Morgan, therefore, 
went aloft to look out, and I again took my place on the bowsprit 
end. Occasionally a huge white old rock peered up its head, as 



116 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

if to ask, "Who were we that thus disturbed the usual quietude of 
the place, and unsettled the peace that had reigned during the 
world's age ? But no interruption to our progress was made. We 
went on and on, creating the most joyous emotions in my breast 
as we proceeded. My heart leaped within me as the vessel 
bounded forward. 

I had taken my glass in hand and cast my eye to the south- 
west. There I could see the extent of the bay was limited by a 
very low coast, but beyond it were the high, bold mountains of 
Mela Incognita, across the olden " Straits" — so termed — of Martin 
Frobisher. Though in the blue melting distance, and some fifty 
miles off, yet they seemed like giants close by. Then, too, the 
lofty hills of rock on either side of us, with the sun-glade, like a 
pathway of dazzling gold, ahead, made the picture beautiful and 
exciting in the extreme. It was my first visit and approach to 
the scenes of Frobisher's discoveries, and well might I be excused 
for the joyousness of my heart on the occasion. 

At length the schooner carried us to the termination of the bay, 
and in a few moments more we had safely anchored in a good 
spot, having four and a half fathoms' depth at low water. 



FIRST VISIT TO FROBISHER BAY. HI 



CHAPTER VI. 

First Visit to Frobisher Bay. — "Meta Incognita.*' — Fossils. — Koo-jesse and his 
Family. — Old Artarkparu. — The beautiful Kok-er-zhun. — Skinning Ducks. — Es- 
quimaux Food. — Native Mode of Sleeping. — Innuit Head-ornaments. — Return 
to the Ship. — Excursion on Shore. — White Man's Grave. — Esquimaux Grave. — 
Chart made by Koojesse. — Innuit Skill in Geography. — Aurora Borealis. — Vis- 
ited by Numbers of the Natives. — Skill of the Women at Work. — Trial of the Ex- 
pedition Boat. — Journey on Land. — Annawa. — Ancient Dwellings of the Innuits. 
— A Mountain Pass. — Old Mother Pe-ta-to. — Puto and the White Child. — Whale 
captured. — An exciting Scene. — Great Feast for the Natives. — Author's first 
Trial at raw Whale-meat. — Custom and Education alone prevents the Enjoy- 
ment of raw Food. — Discovery of a Frobisher Relic. 

It was half past four o'clock, August 21st, when we dropped 
anchor in this beautiful inlet, which I name after Eichard H. 
Chapell, of New London, Connecticut. "We then had a hurried 
tea, and immediately afterward took a boat and went on shore. 
Our party consisted of the captain, Mates Gardiner and Lamb, 
Morgan and Bailey, besides myself. Four Esquimaux — two of 
them being Ugarng and his wife Kun-ni-u — also accompanied us. 

On getting ashore we found that the neck of land dividing the 
waters just left from those of Frobisher "Straits" was less than 
a mile in breadth, and so low that, except in one part where a 
ridge of rocks occurred, it could not be more than a few feet above 
the sea, and possibly covered at high tides. Portions of this 
isthmus were sandy, and the rest full of stones, rocks, and several 
specimens of shale, many of which I eagerly collected. On one 
plat of sand we observed some foot-tracks, which Ugarng stated 
to be of reindeer, though such an opinion seemed to me ridiculous 
from the appearance before us, and so the event proved on the 
following day, when we encountered some Esquimaux who had 
been here. 

On arriving at the ridge of rocks, which I call "Morgan's Hill," 
and which overlooked the whole locality around, I paused a mo- 
ment to gaze upon the scene before my eye. There, facing me, 
was the celebrated " Strait" — so called — of Frobisher, and beyond 
it in the distance Meta Incognita* — thus named by Queen 1! 

• "Mela Incognita" embraced both sides of "Frobisher Straits," and, in fact, 
was meant to include the whole of his discoveries. 



118 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXTEDITIOX. 

beth, but termed Kingaite by the Esquimaux. Two hundred and 
eighty-two years previously, in that very month of August, the 
great English navigator, then on his third voyage, was sailing on 
the -waters now -within my view, and, after many perils from 
storms, fogs, and floating ice, he and part of his original fleet 
(which consisted of fifteen vessels) assembled in "Countess of 
Warwick's Sound," which I supposed to be not far off. As I 
gazed, how I longed to be exploring it, then hopefully anticipating 
it would prove the highway to my ultimate destination, King 
William's Land. But such was not to be. Disappointment is 
the lot of all men. Mine afterward proved great ; and yet I have 
reason to be thankful for what I afterward accomplished. 

I looked long and earnestly. The land on the opposite side of 
the " Straits" was clear before me, though at a distance of some 
forty miles, and it appeared as if a long line of ice or snow top- 
ped a considerable portion of it. I hastened from the place 
whereon I stood, and walked to the beach, where the waters of 
the so-called Frobisher Strait washed the shores. There, with 
spy-glass, I again carefully examined the opposite land. The 
same appearance presented itself. But not till some months aft- 
erward, when exploring up the "Straits," did I have positive 
proof that what I now saw was really an enormous and magnifi- 
cent glacier, which, when I visited it, I called after the name of 
Henry Grinnell. 

Continuing with my glass to trace the land westerly, it seemed 
to me that the mountains in that direction united with the land 
on which I stood, and if so, no " strait" existed. But, as refrac- 
tion at first was going on, I fancied that I might be deceived. A 
longer look, however, made me still feel doubtful ;* and while I 
stood charmed and spell-bound by the picture before me, a crowd 
of strange thoughts filled my soul as I reflected upon my own po- 
sition there, and remembered the history of those early voyages 
made by Frobisher and his companions. But I had not much 
time to ponder. The party was awaiting me, and I had to return. 

On my way back I found many other specimens of fossils, a 
quantity of which I secured ; and as I was well loaded, Kunniu, 
Ugarng's wife, offered to assist me in carrying them. The hood 
of her long-tailed coat was widely opened to receive my load. 
Some fifty pounds' weight of rock specimens, etc., were placed in 

* A week later, as will be seen, six intelligent Esquimaux positively assured me 
that this was a bay, and not a " strait.'' 



THE ESQUIMAUX BOARDING TIIE EESCUE. J2J 

this convenient receptacle, now answering the purpose of a geolo- 
gist's saddle-bag; another time, an Esquimaux lady's bonnet or 
pouch ; and, next, a baby -house ! One of the limestones, on being 
broken in two, exposed to view an imbedded mineral the size and 
shape of a duck-shot. I tried to cut it with my knife, but it was 
hard as steel ; and no effect was made upon it except by scraping 
off the oxyd, which then left displayed something like bright iron. 
Unfortunately, I afterward lost this specimen by dropping it in 
the ship's hold. 

"We got on board the Rescue about nine o'clock, and had a very 
pleasant evening in the cabin. The next morning we were again 
on our way toward the George Henry. As we passed out of the 
bay, taking another channel, it fell calm, and two boats' crews 
were ordered ahead to tow. There was a strong tide running, 
and right in the channel some rocks were seen just below water. 
It was too late to alter the schooner's course, and, though every 
effort was made to get clear, yet we should have been left upon 
those rocks had it not been for the swell of the sea and a good 
pull at the oars carrying us right over them I 

In the afternoon, while still towing, three ki-as, followed by 
oo-mi-ens (family boats of the natives) filled with women and men, 
approached. On the present occasion, a highly-intelligent Innuit, 
Koojesse by name, was boat-steercr of one, while his family and 
other Esquimaux, with all of their connections, their tents, cook- 
ing utensils, etc., accompanied him. As soon as they reached the 
Rescue, all came on board, Koojesse having with him one of the 
finest Esquimaux dogs I had seen. More dogs, deerskins, walrus 
heads and tusks, with abundauce of game, such as ducks, etc., 
were with the part}'. 

Among tbe number now arrived was Kudlagd's eldest daugh- 
ter, Kok-er-zhun, a truly fair and beautiful young woman, already 
married to a young man called Shi-mt r-ar-chu, otherwise Johnny 
Bull. She came alongside full of hope and happiness, expecting 
to hear of, and perhaps to meet her father. Both herself and 
TunuMerlien, the wife of Koojesse, delayed approaching until they 
had made a change of dress, and then, when ready, on deck they 
came. But, alas ! how sad was the blow she had to receive ! See- 
ing Eunniu, Ugarng's wife, whom she knew, the question was put 
to her. "Nou-ti-ma wong-a a-id-id?" — "Where is my father? and 
when Kunniu, in a calm but kindly way, communicated the painful 
news, it was as if a thunderbolt had riven her heart ! That face, 



122 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

a moment before beaming with hope and happiness at the thought 
of meeting her father, was instantly changed to an expression of 
deep woe ! Tears coursed down her cheeks, and, though the usu- 
al calm dignity of Esquimaux nature forbade outcries or noisy 
lamentation, yet it was evident she most acutely felt the sudden 
calamity. Her Esquimaux friends, and all who knew her father, 
sympathized greatly with her, as indeed did we Americans. Ev- 
ery thing in our power was done to alleviate her distress, but it 
was long before she got over the shock. 

In one of the oomiens there were no less than eighteen women 
and children, an old "patriarch" named Ar-tarJc-jxi-ru, who was 
crippled in both nether limbs, but blessed with the heaviest beard 
and mustache yet seen among his people — ten dogs, tents, rein- 
deer skins in immense number, venison, seal-blubber, ducks, wal- 
rus heads and tusks, hunting instruments, and, in truth, all the 
worldly goods of some seven families ! 

Having made fast the oomiens astern, taken the kias on board, 
hoisted the old man up by a rope, and allowed all the rest to 
mount as best they could, we soon had our decks crowded with 
about thirty good-humored natives of all ages and sizes, and of 
both sexes. 

It was not long, however, before the female portion were put to 
work in skinning some of the ducks. While doing so I sat be- 
side them, and eagerly watched their operations. They asked me 
for my knife, and were delighted with the excellent one I lent 
them. Taking a duck, and drawing the knife once around the 
outer joint of each wing and the head, they seized the cut part 
with their teeth, and stripped the fowl entire ! The ducks were 
very fat, and most of it adhered to the skin. This caused these 
daughters of the North to rejoice with each other on the feast of 
fat skins that awaited them on completing their work ! After all 
the ducks had been skinned, they were delivered to the cook as 
fresh provision for the ship's company. It was understood that 
for preparing these ducks the native women were to have the 
skins as pay, and this was considered ample. A short time after- 
ward I saw mothers, fathers, sons, and daughters in bed on deck, 
with their duck-skins in hand, peeling off the " luxurious" fat with 
their teeth, each now and then giving a peculiar kind of grunt in 
great satisfaction! "In bed" among the Esquimaux is to repose 
in puris naturalibus between reindeer skins with the hair on. Be- 
ing well enveloped in these heat-retaining skins, they proceeded 
to eat themselves to sleep ! 



THE IXXUIT AXD WHITE MAN'S GRACES. 123 

Most of the female portion of those on board had each a really 
beautiful ornament upon their head, bent like a bow, and extend- 
ing from points just forward and below the ears up over the top 
of the head. At the apex it was one inch wide, tapering down to 
half an inch at the extremities, and it looked and glistened in the 
bright sun like burnished gold. There were two fastenings to 
this ornament — a string of variously-colored beads going under 
the chin as a bonnet-tie, also one passing down bchiud the ears at 
the back of the neck and head. It struck me that this was not 
only a beautiful ornament to the Esquimaux women, but would 
also be to ladies at home. 

Before Artarkparu came on board he was very anxious to 
make well secure some drift timber he had found. One piece was 
a ship's deck-plank, probably a part of the English whaling ves- 
sel 7' • . wrecked in Bear Sound in 1858. This vessel was 
about 500 tons, and was lost by getting upon the rocks, when, the 
tide leaving her high and dry, she rested amidships upon a crag- 
gy point, and so broke her back. Her anchors, oil tanks, and 150 
fathoms of chain were said to be still lying there. 

In the evening I conversed with Kokerzhun about her father's 
death. She was deeply interested at the many particulars I men- 
tioned, and I was surprised to find her so intelligent and com- 
paratively accomplished. She was, withal, really handsome, but 
retiring and ladylike. She understood several words of the En- 
glish language, and was very solicitous of acquiring more knowl- 
edge of it. She and her husband were invited for the night into 
the cabin, where Mate Gardiner gave them up his berth, and, my 
wrappers answering for coverlets, they were soon asleep. The 
next morning we arrived at our anchorage, and I soon returned 
to my quarters on board the George Henry. 

That evening I landed for a walk, and about half a mile from 
the beach I found a white man's grave — a mound of sand — at the 
head of which was an inscription cut upon a raised wood tablet, 
and reading literally as follows : 

DIED, 

on Tin: ."1st jult, 1857, 
WILLIAM JAMES, AOED 28 tears, 
HI, r. ii. i>., OH BOABD Tin: 

B. SHIP INNI1T, OS P. II. 1'. 

j. n. s utter, 

COMMANDER. 



124 , ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Dreary was the scene around that solitary grave, the last rest- 
ing-place of one who was taken away in the prime of life, far 
from home and all who were dear to him. At the end of each 
line was rudely engraved a willow branch, a substitute for the 
cypress, which, in all ages, and in all parts of the civilized world, 
serves as a memorial of the dead. 

Strangely enough, after an hour's walk I came across another 
grave, but this time that of an Escpiiniaux. The grave was sim- 
ply a steep ledge of rocks on one side, and on the other long 
stones set up on end. Within this were the bones and skull of 
the deceased man. At the head was a pile of rude stone cover- 
ing the utensils that belonged to him when living. Through the 
openings I saw a powder-flask, a little tin tea-kettle suspended 
over a blubber lamp, the knives which he was wont to use, and 
other trifles, all placed in perfect order. Beside this pile were 
his seal, walrus, and whaling instruments. The grave was with- 
out cover, that he might freely roam over the mountains and 
freely traverse the seas to that world whither he had gone. The 
grave was situated on an eminence or bluff overlooking the bay, 
islands, and scenery far and near. As I stood by this grave the 
setting sun was crimsoning the whole heavens, picturing to my 
mind the glory that follows death to those who deserve it. 

After-inquiries that I made enabled me to ascertain the name 
of the deceased, which I found to be one Al-lo-kee, a man cele- 
brated in his day as a great hunter, persevering sealer, and daring 
whaler. 

On Friday, August 24th, Koojesse made me an excellent chart 
of Nu-gum-mi-uke, Northumberland Inlet, Bear Sound, and lands 
adjacent — especially of the so-called Frobisher Strait. He signi- 
fied his willingness to accompany me next season on my intend- 
ed expedition, but declined to venture this year. 

Trade to-day commenced with the natives for whalebone and 
walrus tusks. Several polar bear skins had already been bartered. 

On Saturday, 25th of August (1860), had a very interesting, 
and, to me, important conversation with the intelligent Koojesse, 
Ugarng, and his wife Kunniu. The three of them were great 
travelers, both the former having been in the United States, and 
the latter was born at the " King's Cape" of Luke Fox, discov- 
ered by that navigator in 1631. She had been to the Mela Incog- 
nita of Frobisher, and all along the north coast of that land, which, 
by her account (as clearly explained to me), was connected with 




A. Countess of Warwick's Sound. 

B. Bear Sound. 

C. Field Bay. 

D. Too-jar-choo-ar, "1 

E. Ok-pun, 

F. Too-jarn, 

G. Too-jar-too-ark, 



Resolution Island. 



* "Resolution Island" is put down on our charts as one island, though it really 
consists of several, called bv the natives as indicated above. 






126 ARCTIC BESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the opposite shores, thus making Frobisher "Strait" an inlet or 
bay. Koojesse and Ugarng had also visited the land referred to, and 
each of them declared that there was no other water communica- 
tion to what we call Fox's Channel except through the Hudson's 
Straits. This I was very desirous of knowing more about ; and 
at my request Koojesse finished drawing his chart of the coasts, 
bays, and islands from Northumberland Inlet to Resolution Isl- 
and, and both sides of the so-called Frobisher Strait to its head. 
The original of this chart is now in my possession, and it has al- 
ways astonished me for its remarkable skill and general accuracy 
of detail. A facsimile of most of it is here shown, reduced to T Vth 
of its original size. 

The charts that I possessed of this locality were such as our 
geographers at that time believed to be correct, and I pointed 
out to Koojesse the places about which I desired information. I 
showed him the route I proposed taking when I got up to about 
longitude 72°, in what I had supposed to be Frobisher Strait, 
but he and the others stopped me by saying "Argi/ argil" (No! 
no!) They then took hold of my hand, moving it around till it 
connected with "Meta Incognita;" then following southeasterly 
the north coast of this land till arriving at the channel leading 
into Hudson's Strait, about longitude 66° W., and, turning round, 
went thence up Hudson's Strait continuously on to "King's 
Cape." Of course the names which we place upon our charts are 
unknown to the Esquimaux, and, consequently, I have endeav- 
ored in this work, where possible, to give both together. 

The knowledge that the Esquimaux possess of the geography 
of their country is truly wonderful. There is not a part of the 
coast but what they can well delineate, when once it has been 
visited by them, or information concerning it obtained from oth- 
ers. Their memory is remarkably good, and their intellectual 
powers, in all relating to their native land, its inhabitants, its 
coasts, and interior parts, is of a surprisingly high order. In 
what they related to me concerning Frobisher Strait there could 
be no doubt, and at once I felt convinced that no passage existed 
in that direction. However, this I determined to personally ex- 
amine at the earliest opportunity. Meanwhile I tried all in my 
power to persuade Koojesse to go with me, without delay, to King 
William's Land, but in vain. Earlier in the season he would havi 
gone; now it was too late. I had, therefore, no alternative bui 
to wait until the following spring. 



TRADE WITH THE NATIVES. 127 

At midnight there was a fine display of the aurora borcalis, or 
rather aurora australis, for the direction in which the lights ap- 
peared was south, not north of us. The barometer stood at 30.05 ; 
thermometer, 32° ; wind, moderate N. W., and the sky " clear as 
a bell." I took on deck two delicate compasses to observe if they 
would be affected by the lights, but they were not in the least. 
The display was really beautiful; the streams darting up like 
lightning, and passing the zenith. Some banks of light were so 
thick that the stars behind were obscured, even those of the first 
magnitude. 

The following day we had a visit from Artarkparu, who, I find, 
is brother to Allokee, the man whose grave I had noticed. Ar- 
iarkparu had a single brass button, as an ornament, pendent from 
his skin coat. The device on it was a bee with expanded wings, 
and the motto " Vive ut vivas. 11 

A young man Esquimaux, whom we called Napoleon, from a 
resemblance in features to Bonaparte, used to visit us daily, 
dressed in a blue military coat minus the tail (which had been 
completely torn off), and with a row of big brass buttons running 
over each shoulder and down in front. The device on these but- 
tons was three cannon on carriages, with a crown for the crest. 

Another comical sight was a fat Esquimaux woman who ap- 
peared among us dressed in an old calico curtain put on over 
her sealskin suit. The number of natives now visiting us was 
very great, but it was made a rule that all except a privileged 
few should leave the ship at 8 P. M. During the day much trade 
was carried on in bartering for skins, walrus tusks, etc. One pair 
of tusks measured full twenty-six inches in length. The skull of 
the walrus is very firm and thick. No rifle-ball would have the 
least effect on it. I have specimens that will show this. 

Decidedly the Esquimaux are a happy people. As they crowd- 
ed our decks, I one day noticed about a dozen women seated and 
busily engaged at their work. Two were mending one of the 
boat's sails. Some were chewing ook-gook (large seal) skins for 
soles of Jcum-ings (native boots), others sewing; while one was 
tending across baby. This little fellow, by-the-by, was genera 
as good-humored as the rest, but a piece of raw seal-blubber had 
disordered him, and hence his troublesome manner. It is rare to 
find an Esquimaux child but what is very quiet, and only on ex- 
traordinary occasions will they raise any cries. One Esquimaux 
lady, whose husband was as dark as half the negroes of the States, 



128 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

bad a very pretty serai-while baby, looking true American all 
over! 

On the 29th of August I thought it advisable to try my expe- 
dition boat, with a view to preparing her for the trip to King 
William's Land. Accordingly, she was brought in from where 

she was anchored near the ship, and Captain B , myself, and 

Smith entered her for a sail. She was found to answer admira- 
bly, and proved herself of high merit in model and capabilities. 
Later in the day I again went away in her with Smith and two 
men. We pushed outside into the bay. A fresh easterly breeze 
was blowing, and this gave the boat a good test. Two of the 
ship's boats were also out under sail, but we passed them at such 
a rapid rate that it surprised every one. Truly glad was I to 
find my boat so good, and little did I then imagine she was so 
soon to be lost. 

On the 30th of August I went in an Esquimaux boat, with 
some of the natives, to convey across the bay Annawa, his wife, 
their infant, and a son, besides the widow of old Allokee, toward 
their home, which was at the head of an inlet opening into Fro- 
bisher Strait. Koojesse was of the party, which was comprised of 
fifteen persons. 

We left the ship at 9 A.M., and when about two thirds of the 
way we landed in a bight of a large island. Here I saw an old 
Esquimaux settlement, and I should think there must have been 
no less than fifty huts formerly erected there within a space of 
500 feet of where I stood. The Esquimaux do not make their 
winter habitations now as in the years when the huts I allude to 
were built, the remains of which were before me. 'During the 
last few years Esquimaux live almost entirely in igloos — " snow- 
houses" — through the winter season. Formerly they built up an 
earth embankment, or a wall of stone about five feet high, and 
over this laid skeleton bones of the whale on spars of drift-wood, 
then on top of that placed skins of the seal or walrus./ Many of 
the ancient embankments where we landed had the Is^rgest of 
whale skeleton bones placed " cob-house" style, and so incorpora- 
ted with the earth as to keep the whole firmly and enduringly 
together. ( The entrances were serpentine tunnels under ground, 
with side walls, and roofed with slabs of stone. To pass through 
them one is obliged to go on " all-fours." j 

I noticed here a dog-sledge such as the Esquimaux use in their 
winter excursions. It was ten feet in lentrth, the runners of one 



ESQUIMAUX TRAVELING. 129 

and a half inch plank, and shod with the jaw-bone of the whale. 
The width was thirty inches, and the cross-bars fastened by strings 
of whalebone. 

Allokee's widow had wintered here, and she at once bent her 
steps to the spot where she had formerly halted, and took from 
the ground a large pewter plate that had been left there. I asked 
her where she had obtained the plate, and her reply was "En- 
glish" — thus probably obtained from one of the whalers. The 
use she made of this piece of ware was as a receptacle for needles, 
knives, beads, reindeer sinew for sewing, etc. 

After staying here a short time we again started, and arrived 
at our destination about one o'clock. There the Esquimaux fam- 
ily left us, intending to foot it for about two days over mount- 
ains, through valleys, and across rivers before arriving at their 
home. But not only had they to walk that distance, they had to 
carry a heavy pack on their shoulders ; and I was appalled when 
I saw the load each one took, especially on such a journey, with- 
out the least particle of food with them. 

Our return was made without difficulty, and I got on board 
much pleased with the excursion. 

On the 3d of September we were visited by an old gray-haired 
Esquimaux woman called "Pe-ta-fo." In talking with her she 
declared that her children had numbered twenty-five, but all were 
dead except two. She explained this by throwing out both hands, 
fingers and thumbs widely spread, twice, and one hand thrice, thus 
making twenty-five. At the time I could not help doubting her, 
but she was afterward confirmed by other evidence. 

Of this kind old woman I shall have more to say farther on, 
but at the time of her first visit she greatly interested me by her 
intelligence and excellent memory. Kunniu, Ugarng's third wife, 
also proved herself far more gifted than I should have supposed. 
Her husband wished me to have her as my own, and then she 
could go with me to King's Cape, where she was born ; and she 
herself frequentty explained that I could not go the way I want- 
ed by boat, owing to land all around the Frobisher waters ; but, 
as I was unable to start that season, I had to decline the offer. 

Some of the amusing tricks played by these Esquimaux women 
are especially deserving notice. The variety of games perform- 
ed by a string tied at the ends, similar to a "cat's cradle," etc., 
completely throws into the shade our adepts at home. I never 
before witnessed such a number of intricate ways in which a sim- 

I 



130 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

pie string could be used. One arrangement represented a deer ; 
another a whale ; a third the walrus ; a fourth the seal ; and so 
on without end. 

This Kunniu was a first-rate woman in all relating to work, 
whether in boat or on shore. She was an excellent pilot, and 
could pull an oar with any of our men. One day a whale was 
captured by the George Henry's crew at the lower part of the 
bay, and it was necessary for all aid to be rendered in towing 
the monster alongside our ship. The natives gave every assist- 
ance, and I also went with a boat, rowed by Kunniu and three 
others, to help. But I found they were doing well without us, 
and accordingly returned. On our way back a strong north- 
wester was blowing, and it was becoming very difficult to cross 
the channel. A heavy sea prevailed, and the tide was strong, 
causing a commotion in the waters any thing but pleasant. In 
the boat was that Esquimaux woman I have mentioned as pos- 
sessing the semi-white child, and never did mother more dote 
upon a babe than she upon this. Her care and solicitude for its 
preservation was truly affecting. It lay in the bow of the boat 
as she pulled and pulled, seemingly with the strength of six men, 
and every now and then she would look at it with a tender glance, 
while renewed force was placed upon her oar. Mother? Yes, 
she was a true mother ; and Kunniu evidently must have been 
the same, for she pulled like a giantess. How they watched to 
see if we progressed ! How they turned their eyes to the sleep- - 
ing babe, as a wave would occasionally mount up and top its 
white crest clear over our heads I 

At length we were able to get the boat under the lee of an isl- 
and, and so make more headway in smoother water ; and finally, 
after some very severe labor, we got on board. 

As for the whale, during the afternoon it was brought along- 
side, and a most interesting sight it was to see the seven boats 
towing this " king of fishes" toward the ship. I was reminded by 
it of the way in which old Borne celebrated her " triumphs" over 
great kings and kingdoms. "We of the white race were proud of 
our victory over such a monster of the deep, and they of the dark- 
er skin were rejoiced at having aided in the capture of what 
would very soon give them an immense quantity of "black skin" 
and "krang" for food. 

The skin of the MysticeLus (Greenland whale) is a great treat 
to the Esquimaux, who eat it raw ; and even before the whale 



1NNUITS EATINO KAW FOOD. 131 

was brought to the ship, some of the skin, about twenty square 
feet, had, by permission, been consumed by hungry natives. The 
" black skiu" is three fourths of an inch thick, and looks like In- 
dia-rubber. It is good eating in its raw state even for a white' 
man, as I know from experience ; but when boiled and soused 
in vinegar it is most excellent. 

I afterward saw the natives cutting up the Jcrang (meat) of the 
whale* into such huge slices as their wives could carry ; and as 
they worked, so did they keep eating. Boat-load after boat-load 
of this did they send over to the village, where several deposits 
were made upon islands in the vicinity. All day long were they 
eating; and, thought I, "What monstrous stomachs must these 
Esquimaux have !" Yet I do not think, on the whole, they eat 
more than white men. But the quantity taken in one day — 
enough to last for several days — is what astonishes me ! They 
are, in truth, a peculiar people. " God hath made of one blood all 
nations of men to dwell on the whole face of the earth, and hath 
determined the times before appointed, and the bounds of their 
habitations." Take the Esquimaux away from the arctic regions 
— from the shores of the northern seas, and they would soon 
cease from the face of the earth. The bounds of their habitations 
are fixed by the Eternal, and no one can change them. Thus 
these people live. 

My opinion is, that the Esquimaux practice of eating their food 
raw is a good one — at least for the better preservation of their 
health. To one educated otherwise, as we whites are, the Esqui- 
maux custom of feasting on uncooked meats is highly repulsive ; 
but eating meats raw or cooked is entirely a matter of education. 
" As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined," is an old saw as appli- 
cable to the common mind of a people in regard to the food they 
eat as to any thing else. "When I saw the natives actually feasting 
on the raw flesh of the whale, I thought to myself, " Why can not I 
do the same ?" and the response to my question came rushing 
through my brain, independent of prejudice, " Because of my edu- 
cation — because of the customs of my people from time immemo- 
rial." 

As I stood upon the rocky shore observing the busy natives at 
work carving the monster before me, my eye caught a group 
around one of the vertebra, from which they were slicing and cat- 

* The blood of this whale, a short time after its death, was rising 100° Fahrenheit. 
Forty-eight hours after, its krang was still <|uilc warm. 



132 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ing thin pieces of ligament that looked white and delicious as the 
breast of a Thanksgiving turkey ! At once I made up my mind 
to join in partaking of the inviting (?) viands actually smoking in 
my sight Taking from the hands of Ugarng his seal-knife, I 
peeled off a delicate slice of this spinal ligament, closed my eyes, 
and cried out " Turke}' !" But it would not go down so easy. 
Not because the stomach had posted up its sentinel to say " no 
whale can come down here!" but because it was tougher than any 
bull beef of Christendom ! For half an hour I tried to masticate 
it, and then found it was even tougher than when I began. At 
length I discovered I had been making a mistake in the way to 
eat it. The Esquimaux custom is to get as vast a piece into their 
distended mouths as they can cram, and then, boa constrictor- 
like, first lubricate it over, and so swallow it quite ivhole! 

" When you are in Eome, do as the Eomans do." Therefore 
I tried the Esquimaux plan and succeeded, but that one trial was 
sufficient at the time. 

A day or two afterward I again went on shore to where a por- 
tion of the whale's carcass remained. 

The natives were so careful of the prize that numerous piles 
of stones, covering deposits of krang and blubber, were seen on 
the islands around. This would seem to bespeak a, provident in- 
stead of an improvident trait in their character; but I am in- 
clined to think the former is more the exception than the rule. 

One old woman kindly came to me and offered a generous 
slice of the " whale-gum" she was feasting on. Beaching out my 
hand, with one stroke of her " ood-loo" (a woman's knife — an in- 
strument like a mincing-knife) she severed the white, fibrous 
strip quick as thought. It cut as old cheese. Its taste was like 
unripe chestnuts, and its appearance like cocoa-nut meat. But I 
can not say this experiment left me a very great admirer of 
whale's gum, though, if the struggle was for life, and its preserva- 
tion depended on the act, I would undoubtedly eat whale's gum 
until I got something better to my liking. 

On September 5th, while taking a walk on Look-out Island, 
half a mile south of the ship, I discovered a large piece of what 
I supposed to be iron mineral, weighing 19 pounds, and " in shape 
and appearance resembling a round loaf of burned bread." Cir- 
cumstances afterward furnished me with many interesting par- 
ticulars of this piece of iron, and ultimately I ascertained it to be 
an undoubted relic of Frobisher's Expedition. 5 



A BOAT INCIDENT. 133 



CHAPTER VII. 

Boat Incident. — Life hanging on a Shoe-string. — Courage of Esquimaux Boys. — 
Author's Escape. — Decomposed Rocks. — Tcssu-u-in. — Arrival of the Gtorgicma. — 
Author's Sickness and Recovery. — Attention of the Natives. — Independent Char- 
acter of the Esquimaux. — Deserving the attention of Philanthropists. — A fearful 
Gale. — The Rescue and the Expedition Boat wrecked. — The Gec-iyiana on Shore. 
— The George Henry in great Danger. — Gale ahates. — The Georgiana got off the 
Rocks undamaged. — She departs for Northumberland Inlet. 

The incidents connected with my every-day life for some time 
at this period, though never without novelty to myself, would, I 
fear, seem to present a sameness of character if too often brought 
forward in the disjointed form in which they occurred. I will, 
therefore, occasionally throw together several matters that refer 
to the same subject, though scattered over the next two or three 
weeks. 

Of these not the least interesting to me was the native habits 
and customs as displayed in their beautiful villages. I was never 
tired viewing them, and at every opportunity was on shore among 
.their tupics — summer tents. 

At other times I would make an excursion to some of the 
many islands around the ship, for the purpose of exercise and col- 
lecting specimens. I took one or more of the natives with me 
generally, and, on a certain occasion, the following incident oc- 
curred : 

In the morning of September 8th, I went over in a boat to an 
island. I had with me a little " one-eyed" Esquimaux compan- 
ion, and, after about three hours' ramble, we returned to the land- 
ing only to find the boat entirely out of our reach. The tide had 
risen so much that approach to it was quite out of the question. 
The fastening of the boat was to a rock now far out, and beneath 
the waters! Here was a dilemma. What was I to do? The 
dashing waves threatened every moment to surge away the boat; 
and if that went, and we were left upon that solitary, barren isl- 
and for a night, the probability was we should both suffer great- 
ly. There was no other way of getting off but by the boat, and 
the tide was still fast rising. For a time I was puzzled what to 



13-± ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

do. But, as "necessity is the mother of invention," I at length 
bethought me of a plan. If I had a line long enough to allow of 
a stone attached to it beiug thrown into the boat, all would prob- 
ably be right. But I had no line. What then could I do ? Pres- 
ently an idea struck me. The telescope-case, containing a spy- 
glass (which swung to my side), had a long leathern strap. My ma- 
rine (opera) glass was also pendent from my neck by a piece of 
green curtain-cord. The native boots on my feet were made fast 
by strong thongs of sealskin. Quickly these were tied together 
and made into a line of some twenty feet long. To this a moder- 
ately heavy stone was attached, and with a good throw I man- 
aged to cast it into the boat. "With a steady, gentle pull, the 
boat was once more within reach, and my Esquimaux companion 
and myself able to rejoin the living world ! 

It is said that "our lives often hang upon a brittle thread!" 
True, indeed. Certainly it was something like it in the present 
case, and I believe there can be no impropriety in saying that 
mine and my little Esquimaux's depended for once upon a strong 
shoestring I 

Another boat adventure may be here worth narrating. About 
a month after the previous occurrence I went on " Look-out'" Isl- 
and to spend the day making observations, etc. Two young Es- 
quimaux accompanied me ; but, though the place where I landed 
was only about half a mile south of the ship, we were some time 
getting there, and on arrival I found, from the high breakers 
ashore, it would be better to send the boat back. The troubled 
sea was such that in a little time the boat, if left there, would have 
been pounded to pieces. I wrote a note to the ship, asking for 
one of the working boats to call for me at evening. As the two 
boys went off in the boat, no small anxiety was caused by wit- 
nessing the difficulty and delay they experienced in reaching the 
ship. And no wonder. The boat they had to manage was 
twenty-eight feet long and six feet beam, and this to take across 
a channel where the sea is often very considerable. However, 
the tide helped them, and in time the} r got alongside. 

In the evening one of our whale-boats came for me under 
charge of Mr. Rogers, who also found much difficulty in approach- 
ing any place where I could get on board. He nearcd a rock 
upon which I stepped, but instantly found myself slipping. I had 
in hand and about my person sextants, artificial horizon, nautical 
and surveying books, tape measurer, etc., etc., and there I was, 



ARRIVAL OF TES-SU-WTN. 135 

poised upon the edge of a precipitous rock, fixed in deep water, 
with furious surf around it ! I felt alarmed, more perhaps for my 
instruments than myself, for the former would be lost, while I 
might readily be saved. All of the boat's crew were anxiously 
bending their eyes upon me as I kept slipping, and for a moment 
unable to help myself. But, thanks to my Esquimaux boots, 
which had been well " chewed" by the native women, I was able, 
by a great effort, to press my feet and toes upon the ice-covered 
rock, until Keeney, the "boat-header," managed to spring on shore 
to my assistance, and in another moment I was in the boat. Thus 
I was saved on this occasion simply by the flexibility of Esqui- 
maux boots ! 

One Sunday after dinner I took the dingey, a small boat be- 
longing to the ship, and, accompanied by four Esquimaux boys, 
directed it to the foot of the mountains north of our harbor. The 
mountains are God's temples ; to them I like to bend my steps on 
Sundays. 

" God, that made the world and all things therein, seeing that 
he is Lord of heaven and earth, dwelleth not in temples made 
with hands." 

I used, therefore, to say, " To what place shall I go where I 
can better worship my God than on the mountains? How can I 
so well learn His power as looking upon and contemplating His 
almighty works?" 

After leaving the boat in a safe little harbor, we began our up- 
ward tramp, and I was much interested in a pile of rock which 
seemed nearly undermined by old Father Time. The remaining 
stone was feldspar ; that which had been eaten out — a stratum of 
five feet thick — was composed of mica and a small proportion of 
quartz. The distance excavated in some places could not have 
been less than three or four fathoms ! At first it seemed decidedly 
venturesome to go under this rock shed; but, on witnessing the 
firmness of the feldspar, its immense height, length, and breadth, 
it restored my confidence. 

I greatly enjoyed my walk, and returned on board without 
mishap by the evening. 

On the 10th of September we were visited by some new-comers 
— an Esquimaux called Tes-su-ioin, and his family and boat's crew. 
They had left Ookoolear — Cornelius Grinnell Bay — on the pre- 
vious day, bringing a letter from Captain Allen, of the Black Eagk, 
which vessel was still where we had left her on the 16th of Au- 



136 AECTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

gust, when sailing for this place. The number in Tessuwin's boat 
was eleven, including four females. He had with him his wife, 
Neu-er-ar-piiig, and a sister's child called Oy-Lig, meaning whale. 
Tessuwin and his wife had both been to Fox Channel from Kem- 
misuite, in Northumberland Inlet, and the information they gave 
me concerning those parts, and all around the Frobisher waters, 
was very interesting, fully confirming the other reports. Tessu- 
win had often seen, and, with many others, visited in his kia the 
Hudson Bay Company's ships, as they passed up Hudson's Strait. 
He said that very few Innuits now dwelt on Kingaite (if eta Incog- 
nita), and nearly all the native inhabitants were fast dying off. 

Soon after Tessuwin's arrival another boat from Captain Ty- 
son's ship, then at the same place as the Black Eagle, came on 
board, and after a stay of two days returned, taking back several 
of the natives, among whom was Kookoodlear, the young wife. 
of one of the George Henry's hired Esquimaux crew. Tessuwin 
left us on the 15th, he having engaged himself and family to Cap- 
tain Allen for the whaling season. 

A few days after this, on the 18th, we were much surprised at 
the sight of a vessel coming up the bay, and soon afterward we 
ascertained she was the Georgiana, Captain Tyson. It was even- 
ing when she neared, passing on the opposite side of some small 
islands that inclosed us in our harbor. As she was going along 
about three or four knots an hour, suddenly I perceived her ujdou 
a rock, and in another moment her bow was raised some four 
feet higher than the stern. All was then confusion. A boat was 
seen to take a line out, but the increasing darkness prevented 
much being observed, and I felt great anxiety as to her fate. 
Fortunately, the tide was on the flood, and in less than an hour I 
had the satisfaction of seeing her again free. In ten minutes more 
she dropped anchor about two cable lengths from us. 

The following days an interchange of visits took place, and 
new life was diffused by the friendly spirit of emulation created 
between the two ships' companies in whaling. One day, when 
the boats were out, it was seen by those of us who remained on 
board that a whale had been captured, but at first we could not 
tell which ship's company were the victors. By-and-by it was 
ascertained to be the George Henry's, and I here mention it to re- 
late an instance of generous feeling on the part of Captain Tyson. 

When Smith, who was the lucky captor, had fastened to the 
whale, and was looking for means to secure his prize, Captain Ty- 



YVIIALK-SKIN GOOD FOR FOOD. 137 

son, in Lis boat, came up, and, without a word, proceeded to lance 
the huge monster so as to render him incapable of farther resist- 
ance. Directly this was done, Tyson left, to go cruising for oth- 
ers ; nor did he once make any proposition in reference to a claim 
for a share, as customary among whalers. His act was most 
friendly, especially so where whaling has so much to create strife. 

About this time I was very sick — indeed, had been quite pros- 
trated for several days by severe rheumatic pains. The cause 
originated with myself in consequence of needless exposure. I 
had experienced no material illness before since leaving home, 
and I believed, even as I now believe, that what Governor Elberg, 
of Holsteinborg, said to me about the healthy condition of all who 
reside in the arctic regions, as compared with other parts of the 
world, was true. But I had neglected even the commonest pre- 
cautions during wet, cold, and fogs, and thus I now suffered. I 
allude to it for the purpose of showing the great sympathy 
evinced for me by the Esquimaux whenever they came on board. 
In moving about near my cabin they would walk on tiptoe, as 
though instructed in our customs at home ; and on one occasion, 
two little girls, Oolcoodlear and a companion, were so careful lest 
they should disturb me, that they would hardly turn over the 
leaves of an illustrated Atlas that had been placed before them for 
their amusement. 

This sickness of mine continued, with intermissions, for several 
days ; but eventually I triumphed over it, and was able to move 
about again as I had been accustomed to. During my sickness 
various dishes were prepared for me from game that was captured, 
but I well remember the joy I felt on eating a portion of a rein- 
deer's tongue, brought on board by some of the Esquimaux after 
a successful hunt. The previous day all hands had been eating 
(and relishing it too) some soused " black skin" of the whale, and 
I had freely taken of my share, but the satisfaction was nothing 
compared to that produced by the reindeer tongue. Neverthe- 
less, I still assert that the black skin is good, either raw or cooked; 
and, when prepared as pig's feet are in the States, it is luxurious. 

At this time the George Henry was feeding and employing in 
the whaling service thirteen Esquimaux — that is, two boats' crews 
and one over. They got three meals a day in the cabin. The 
ration to each was one sea-biscuit, a mug of coffee, and a slice of 
salt junk. Besides this, they were furnished with all the pipes, 
tobacco, clothing, guns, and ammunition they wanted. In return, 



138 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

they generally went out cruising for whales just when they 
pleased, came back when they pleased, and did as they pleased. 
If one or several took an idea to go off deer-hunting, or for any 
other object, away he or they would go. They would be inde- 
pendent in the fullest sense of the word, and restraint was what 
they could not brook. 

We Americans talk about " freedom and independence," but 
we are far behind these Northerners. While we are pleased with 
shadows, the dusky sons of an arctic clime enjoy the substance. 
They will do as they please, without any one having the acknowl- 
edged right or power to say to them, " Why do you so ?" 

I could say much, very much upon this subject, but perhaps it 
may be considered out of place, therefore leave it for another op- 
portunity. Still, I must make one remark. The Esquimaux 
really deserve the attention of the philanthropist and Christian. 
Plant among them a colony of men and women having right- 
minded principles, and, after some patient toil, glorious fruits must 
follow. I can not realize the fact that here is a people having 
much of nobleness and even greatness in their composition, yet 
unvisited and apparently uncared-for by the missionary- world. 
Nothing, however, could be done toward their good until a course 
is adopted similar to that pursued by the King of Denmark with 
Greenland. It is a painful, but too evident fact, that the Esqui- 
maux on the west of Davis's Straits are wofully debased, and fell- 
en from their original virtues — though possessing many still — ow- 
ing to the visits of reckless white men on their coasts. In Green- 
land the case is different. There, under the Danish king's con- 
trol, Christian colonies, churches, schools, store-houses, and stores 
of every needful variety, are to be found interspersed from Cape 
Farewell to Upernavik, and the inhabitants comfortable and hap- 
py. Priests and catechists, schoolmasters and schoolmistresses, are 
educated to their several posts, and are well paid for their serv- 
ices from his majesty's coffers. Danes emigrate to the land, mar- 
ry and intermarry with the Esquimaux. Knowledge and virtue, 
industry and prosperity, are the results. And, notwithstanding 
the expenses for the support of all this, including the salaries of 
inspectors, governors, and several scores of employes, yet the net 
proceeds of this apparently desolate land exceed ten thousand 
dollars, federal money, per annum! This is well for Greenland. 
Paying for all her imports ; paying the expenses of some ten ships 
annually from and to Copenhagen ; paying all the other expenses 



A FEAKFUL GALE. 139 

named, including missionaries, and yet realizing an annual return 
of net profit for the King of Denmark of ten thousand dollars ! 
How many nations of this modern day do better ? And, with 
this fact before us, why shall not the same occur (adopting the 
same plan) in the land of the Esquimaux on the west side of Da- 
vis's Straits ? Let my countrymen look to it whenever the first 
opportunity arrives. 

On the 27th day of September (1860) there broke upon us that 
fearful gale which caused the loss of my expedition boat and the 
far-famed Rescue, drove the Georgiana on shore, and came near 
proving the destruction of the George Henry and all on board. As 
it was of so serious a character, I will here give the particulars in 
detail. 

Wednesday, the 26th, commenced with light winds from the 
N.E. At noon it began to snow, with an increasing breeze. At 
1 P.M. all the boats came on board from their cruising-ground, 
and preparations were made for bad weather. The wind now 
rapidly increased to a gale, and at 8 P.M. the second anchor was 
let go, with all the cable given that could be allowed without let- 
ting the George Henry get too near the rocky island astern of us. 
The schooner Rescue, at this time, was about fifty fathoms distant 
on our starboard bow, and the brig Georgiana a little more easter- 
ly. At 9 P.M. the gale was still increasing, and a heavy sea rising. 
At this time the deck watch came in the cabin and reported that 
the Rescue was dragging her anchors, and as we looked upon her 
dark form through the thick darkness of the night, it seemed, as 
she kept moving by, that her destruction was inevitable and im- 
mediate. But, when abeam of us, she held on, though pitching 
and surging heavily. The Georgiana was seen but faintly, and it 
appeared as if she, too, was in great danger. At 11 P.M. it was 
blowing a perfect hurricane, with thick snow, and just then we 
could perceive the brig driving astern toward the island. She 
had, as wc afterward learned, broken her small anchor, and drag- 
ged her large one. On she went, driving heavily, amid the wild 
stir of the elements, and the awful darkness of that snow-storm 
night — on and on, with nothing to save her, until presently we 
could see she had struck upon the island leeward of us, where, 
after "worrying" her anchor round a point of land, she got into 
some slightly smooth water, and there continued pounding her 
larboard side on the rocks. The crew now left her and went on 
to the island, expecting every moment that she would part her 



140 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

remaining chain, and so be driven out into the bay, where there 
would be no possible chance of saving their lives. 

Meanwhile, we ourselves were momentarily expecting destruc- 
tion. It did not seem possible that our anchors could hold. 
Wind, and storm, and a raging sea appeared to be combined 
against us. Thirty souls, besides near a score of natives, were on 
board, and all preparing for the moment when it was probable 
the George Henry would be adrift on the rocks. But, thanks to 
Providence and our good anchors, we did not stir, though at no 
time very far from the rocks. Every now and then I was on deck, 
not to hear the howling winds, for the whole cabin below resound- 
ed with their roar, but to gaze upon the terrible scene. And 
what a scene ! It was truly awful. Never before had I seen its 
like— never had I pictured to my imagination the reality of such 
a night. As I tried to steady myself by holding fast to some 
fixed rope, my eyes were spell-bound by the fearful sight before 
me. There behind was the brig, pounding away upon the rocks ; 
and here, closer to us, was our consort, the schooner, plunging 
and chafing at her anchors as if mad at the restraint put upon 
her, and insanely desirous of letting go her hold to rush upon the 
shore. Ever and anon would she throw her bows low down, tak- 
ing up the briny sea, and then, swiftly surging to and fro, spring 
fearfully on her chains. On the rocky, desolate island astern, 
the moving figures of those belonging to the brig could be dis- 
cerned, evidently doing their best to keep warm in that bitter 
night. Through the rigging of our ship came the howling wind 
and the driving snow, while the fierce waves played and leaped 
about in the wildest fury. Yes, it was indeed a fearful sight, es- 
pecially as it was increased in horror by the dread uncertainty of 
our own and our consort's continued safety. 

At length these our fears were in part fulfilled. Toward morn- 
ing the hurricane became stronger. Every blast seemed as if 
about to tear us from our hold, then lift us into the air and hurl 
us upon the rocks for destruction. Presently our eyes caught 
sight of the Rescue in a moment dashing before the storm toward 
the dreaded shore. She had parted chain, and, with one bound, 
went hopelessly broadside on, amid the breakers at her lee. 
Thump! thump! crash! crash! away the tottering masts! the 
ropes, the bulwarks, the all of what was once the noble-looking, 
beautiful, and renowned schooner Rescue ! In and among the 
rocks, with their jagged tops tearing her to pieces, and the boil- 



THE RESCUE AXD EXPEDITION BOAT WBECKED. 143 

ing surges driving over her decks, as the snow-storm poured its 
heavy drift around, even as if it were a wondrous funeral sbroud, 
so did the doomed craft meet its fate. 

So, too, was my expedition boat torn from its moorings, and, 
sharing the Rescue's sad end, doomed me also to a wreck of dis- 
appointment in the hopes I had cherished concerning her. And 
all this we saw as, with startled gaze and anxious thought, we 
stood on deck, powerless to save, and equally powerless to avert 
our own doom, if it should come. 

The night passed on. The morning light slowly and cheer- 
lessly pierced through the increasing thickness of falling snow as 
it flew past us on the driving wind. Dimly at first, then more 
distinctly, but still in dread spectre-like form, loomed up the rug- 
ged island scene, with its wrecks and desolation. Figures all but 
indistinct were moving about, and the two ships were pounding 
upon the rocks, tearing at their anchors as if in the most con- 
vulsive death-throes. The Rescue was on her broadside, with her 
bow easterly, and evidently breaking up. The Georgiana, being 
in a more sheltered spot, appeared to be less hurt. But it was 
necessary to do something, if possible, to release the men from 
their position on shore, and get them on board of us, for we seem- 
ed now likely to hold on. Accordingly, the moment a lull in the 
wind took place, which was at 9 A.M. of the 27th, a whale-boat 
was carefully lowered and passed astern. Into it two brave 
hearts, Mate Rogers and a seaman, stepped, with a view of ven- 
turing through the boiling waves and surf to try and assist their 
wrecked comrades. Cautiously the boat was allowed to drift off 
toward the island, a strong and good line of great length attach- 
ed to it from the ship. Skillfully was it guided over the seas 
and through the breakers. Mate Rogers and his bold compan- 
ion well and nobly did their work. In a few moments the boat 
was under the Rescue's projecting bowsprit, and speedily, though 
requiring exceeding care, Captain Tyson, his crew, and those who 
had been on board of the schooner got into her. A short time 
more, and all were standing safely on the George Henry's deck. 

At noon both the stranded ships were pounding very heavily 
on the rocks, and jumping their anchors in such a manner as to 
cause the two vessels to move their position more round the isl- 
and, though in opposite directions. Thus it continued through- 
out all of the 27th, the wind increasing rather than the contrary. 
But on the following morning the gale abated, and at nine o'clock 



144 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

a party of our people managed to get on shore. "We found the 
larboard side of the Rescue badly stove, but the Georgiana, by be- 
ing in a much less exposed place, was perfectly tight, and com- 
paratively uninjured. Her crew soon afterward took possession 
of her again, and ultimately she was got off the rocks, and once 
more anchored in deep water. 

As for the Rescue, after a careful examination, it was found she 
was too far damaged to be repaired with any means at our com- 
mand. Accordingly, it was determined to totally abandon her ; 
and this was put in execution the following day by clearing her 
hold of all the contents, and saving whatever was valuable of her 
material. 

I went on shore to examine what remained of the schooner, 
and also to look after my expedition boat. I found my boat to- 
tally wrecked, nothing remaining but the stern-post fast to a 
three-inch cable. It appeared that during a part of the gale she 
had been driven high up on the rocks, and though the Georgian's 
crew endeavored to save her by additional fastenings, her fate was 
sealed. The tempestuous elements would not allow her to escape, 
and she was broken to pieces in the fury of the storm. 

I need not say how much I grieved at the loss of my boat. To 
me it was irreparable, and for a time I was nearly overcome by 
the blow ; but I reasoned that all things were for the best in the 
hands of a good Providence, and I therefore bent submissively to 
His will. 

The natives who had been on board of the Georgiana were on 
the island when I landed. They had found the sail of my boat, 
and turned it to account as a shelter, and now were as hapjjy and 
merry as though nothing unusual had occurred. 

The Rescue, when I examined her, was high and dry on the 
rocks, with her bottom stove in. I mounted her side (her decks 
were inclining to the shore at an angle of 45°); I entered her cab- 
in, looked into her hold, and again descended outside, going un- 
der and around her. Then, as I gazed at her battered hull, griev- 
ing at the end she had come to, what a number of interesting as- 
sociations crowded upon my mind. She had been of the " United 
States' Grinncll Expedition" in search of Sir John Franklin in 
1850-1, being the consort of the Advance, in which latter vessel 
Dr. Kane afterward made that memorable voyage (the second 
Grinnell Expedition) in search of Franklin in 1853-5. The Res- 
cue's quondam consort, after having given forth freely of its 



AUTHOR'S PLANS AFTER LOSING HIS BOAT. 145 

planks and timbers for the preservation and warmth of Dr. Kane 
and his party, was finally given up to the ices of the North which 
unrelentingly grasped it. The Advance was abandoned Sunday, 
May 20th, 1855, in Rensselaer Harbor, lat. 78° 37' N., and long. 
70° 40' W. Five years, four months, and seven days after this 
occurred the total wreck of the Rescue, in a harbor named after 
her, situated in lat. 62° 52' K, and long. 64° 44' W., nearly due 
south of her former consort. 

After well examining the Rescue, I went to the wreck of Koo- 
jesse's whale-boat, lying on the windward side of the island. 
This boat had been fast to the schooner's stern, and, of course, 
went on the rocks at the same time. She had originally belong- 
ed to Kudlago, having been given to him in 1858. When Kud- 
lago left for the States in 1S59, he gave the boat to Koojesse to 
use until his return.* 

I may add here that an oomicn (woman's or family boat) be- 
longing to the natives went adrift during the storm and became 
a total wreck. A boat of this kind is of great value to the Esqui- 
maux, and, when lost, is to them something akin to the loss of a 
first-class ship to us at home. 

I must now say a few words concerning myself. Even in the 
midst of the howling tempest, when our own safety on board the 
George Henry was a matter of doubt, my thoughts kept turning to 
what I should do, now that my expedition boat was lost. But it 
did not take me long to consider. I was determined that, God 
willing, nothing should daunt me ; I would persevere if there was 
the smallest chance to proceed. If one plan failed — if one disas- 
ter came, then another plan should be tried, and the disaster rem- 
edied to the best of my power. Thus, without delay, and while 
yet the hurricane blasts made the ship tremble beneath us, as the 
captain and I stood on her deck, I asked him if one of the ship's 
boats could be spared me to prosecute my voyage to King Wil- 
liam's Land, now that my own little craft was wrecked. liis re- 
ply, after some consideration, was favorable ; but, when the time 
approached for my departure, it was found the one that alone 
could be spared to me was frail, rotten, and not seaworthy. 

* Before I close this acconnt of the Rescue's wreck and the loss of my expedition 
boat, with the escape of the George Il'nry, it may be interesting to mciitiim thai this 
latter vessel did not live through another voyage after her return to the States in 
1862. She was wrecked the 16th day of July, 1863, on ono of the lower Savage 
Man. Is in Hudson's Strait, alwtit LOO miles farther south than Rescue Harbor. The 
particulars will be found in the Appendix (6). 

K 



146 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



On the 1st of October the Georgiana, having made good her de- 
fects so far as she could, left the harbor under all sail for Nor- 
thumberland Inlet to winter. By her I forwarded letters to 
friends at home, should she meet, as was expected, with whalers 



returning to England. 




EK-KR-LU-YUN, 

the white-stone Balmon-bait used by Esquimaux. 



SPLENDID DISPLAYS OF THE AURORA. 14; 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Splendid Displays of the Aurora. — "The World on Fire." — Arrival of Captain 
Parker in the True-love. — Visit to his Ship. — Niktijar the Pilot. — Anecdotes of 
Parker's Arctic Experiences. — First Interview with the Innuits Ebierbing and 
Tookoolito. — Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty. — The 
Accomplishments of Tookoolito. — Eenoolooapik. — A Walk on Shore. — Snow- 
storm. — A natural Causeway. — Fluctuations of the Compass Needle. — Tookoo- 
lito at Work. — She tries to Educate her People. — Her Power to do Good. — Ad- 
vantages of a Mission Colony. — Difference of Language among the Esquimaux. — 
Carl Petersen, M'Clintock's Interpreter. — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers. 

For several days now our life was of a very monotonous de- 
scription, except so far as varied by the visits of Esquimaux, who 
were frequently on board performing different avocations more 
or less useful to us. Scrubbing the cabin floor, sewing and dress- 
ing sealskins, were some of the occupations that engrossed their 
time. Occasionally the younger members were ready pupils un- 
der my hand in trying to learn whatever I could teach them of 
civilized education. 

But at this time the phenomena of Nature frequently gave me 
intense delight. The aurora, in all its glorious brilliancy, shone 
forth on several nights, and often did I linger on deck gazing 
upon it, with my soul entranced by the sight. It is impossible 
for me to give a just and full description of the immeasurable 
beauty and grandeur of such a scene. All I can attempt to do is 
to put before the reader my thoughts and sensations at the several 
times, as recorded in my journal. 

"November 23, 1860. A few places at six o'clock this evening 
where the cerulean sky and stars can be seen. While standing on 
deck near the bow of the vessel, viewing Mars in its meridian 
passage at this place, all at once a bright, beautiful beam of aurora 
shot up midway between the star and the moon. The moon — 
some 39° or 40° east of Mars — was shining brightly, but above 
and below it were cirri cumuli clouds. Between the planets all 
was clear. The aurora beams increased rapidly. They were of 
prismatic colors to-night, pea-green predominating. Oh that I 
could pen or pencil the beauty of this display ! The kind of 
clouds which I have named arc the most distant of any. The 



148 



ARCTIC KESEAECU EXPEDITION'. 



aurora, as it frequently ascended high in the heavens, plainl}- 
painted its golden rays upon the face of the clouds, thus proving 
it was at play between me and them. Blind George, the Esquimaux, 
was standing by my side. I told him what was going on in the 
heavens. I said the moon was shining, and the aurora showing 
off finely at the time. He wished me to place him in position 
that his face might be upturned toward what I saw and so ad- 
mired. This I joyfully did. Joyfully do I say ? No, no! For, 
as Paulooyer (Blind George) asked me, I saw that he was possess- 
ed of an uncontrollable yearning, seeming to me like that of a 
pinioned eagle, to soar away to the regions of the stars. He 
sought to tear away the curtains which God, in his own dispensa- 
tion, bad seen fit to place before his eyes, that he might again see 
the handiwork of Him who made the stars, the world, and all 
that is therein. 

" My ecstasy in the beauty of the scene before me was caught 
up by the spirit of George, thus making him an object worthy of 
a poet's pen — worthy of lasting remembrance." 




Tin. All:. .1: 



On another occasion, December 3d, I find myself saying, " The 
aurora commenced its fantastic dances at 5 P.M. It now stretches 




ACTOEA, DECEMBEB 17, 1SG0. 



"THE WORLD ON FIKE." 151 

its arch across the heavens from S.E. to W., the whole southerly 
of the vessel. Though not at first so, yet now their base is of 
prismatic colors. I know of no phenomenon more deeply inter- 
esting than that which is to be seen here every fair night in the 
aurora." 

Again, on another morning, December 17th, at six o'clock, I 
write, " The heavens arc beaming with aurora. The appearance 
of this phenomenon is quite changed from what it has been. 
Now the aurora shoots up in beams scattered over the whole 
canopy, all tending to meet at zenith. Plow multitudinous are 
the scenes presented in one hour by the aurora ! This morning 
the changes are very rapid and magnificent. Casting the eye in 
one direction, I view the instantaneous flash of the aurora shoot- 
ing up and spreading out its beautiful rays, gliding this way, then 
returning, swinging to and fro like the pendulum of a mighty 
clock. I cast my eyes to another point; there instantaneous 
changes are going on. I close my eyes for a moment ; the scene 
has changed for another of seemingly greater beauty. In truth. 
if one were to catch the glowing heavens at each instant now 
passing, his varied views would number thousands in one hour. 
Who but God could conceive such infinite scenes of glory ? "Who 
but God execute them, painting the heavens in such gorgeous 
display ?" 

At another time the aurora presented a neiopha.se, rays shooting 
athwart the southwestern sky parallel with the horizon. 

Later still, March 11th, I say: "It seemeth to me as if the 
very doors of heaven have been opened to-night, so mighty, and 
beauteous, and marvelous were the waves of golden light that a few 
moments ago swept across the ' azure deep,' breaking forth anon 
into floods of wondrous glory. God made LTis wonderful works 
to-night to be remembered. I have witnessed many displays of 
the aurora since making anchorage in this harbor, a great many 
of them of surpassing magnificence, yet what I beheld this night 
erowns them all. I could never have anticipated the realization 
of such a scene ! 

" I was not alone enjoying it. Captain Budington and Mate 
Gardiner were with me, and we all looked on in wondrous yet 
delighted awe. 

" The day had been fine, with a moderate wind from the north- 
west. When the sun went down behind the ridge of mountains 
limiting the bay, a perfect calm followed, with a sky absolutely 



152 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

cloudless. At 4 P.M. there had been seen one solitary and pecul- 
iar cloud hanging in the heavens to the north about 15° above 
the horizon. This cloud was a deep dark blue, looking much like 
the capital letter S. This at last disappeared, and the night set 
in, still beautiful and mild, with myriads of stars shining with ap- 
parently greater brilliancy than ever. 

" I had gone on deck several times to look at the beauteous 
scene, and at nine o'clock was below in my cabin going to bed 
when the captain hailed me with the words. ' Come above, Hall, at 
once! The world is on fire!' 

"I knew his meaning, and, quick as thought, I redressed my- 
self, scrambled over several sleeping Innuits close to my berth, 
and rushed to the companion stairs. In another moment I reach- 
ed the deck, and as the cabin door swung open, a dazzling, over- 
powering light, as if the world was really ablaze under the agency 
of some gorgeously-colored fires, burst upon my startled senses ! 
How can I describe it? Again I say, no mortal hand can truth- 
fully do so. Let me, however, in feeble, broken words, put down 
my thoughts at the time, and try to give some faint idea of what 
I saw. 

"My first thought was, 'Among the gods there is none like 
unto Thee, Lord ; neither are there any works like unto Thy 
works /' Then I tried to picture the scene before me. Piles of 
golden light and rainbow light, scattered along the azure vault, ex- 
tended from behind the western horizon to the zenith ; thence 
down to the eastern, within a belt of space 20° in width, were the 
fountains of beams, like fire-threads, that shot with the rapidity 
of lightning hither and thither, upward and athwart the great 
pathway indicated. No sun, no moon, yet the heavens were a 
glorious sight, flooded with light. Even ordinary print could 
have been easily read on deck. 

" Flooded with rivers of light. Yes, flooded with light; and 
such light ! Light all but inconceivable. The golden hues pre- 
dominated ; but, in rapid succession, jmsmatic colors leaped forth. 

" We looked, we saw, and trembled ; for, even as we gazed, 
the whole belt of aurora began to be alive with flashes. Then 
each pile or bank of light became myriads ; some now dropping 
down the great pathway or belt, others springing up, others leap- 
ing with lightning flash from one side, while more as quickly 
passed into the vacated space ; some, twisting themselves into 
folds, entwining with others like enormous serpents, and all these 



MORE OF AURORAL MAGNIFICENCE. 153 

movements as quick as the eye could follow. It seemed as if 
there was a struggle with these heavenly lights to reach and occu- 
py the dome above our heads. Then the whole arch above be- 
came crowded. Down, down it came ; nearer and nearer it ap- 
proached us. Sheets of golden flame, coruscating while leaping 
from the auroral belt, seemed as if met in their course by some 
mighty agency that turned them into the colors of the rainbow, 
each of the seven primary, 3° in width, sheeted out to 21° ; the 
prismatic bows at right angles with the belt. 

•• AVhile the auroral fires seemed to be descending upon us, one 
of our number could not help exclaiming, 

" ' Hark ! hark ! such a display ! almost as if a warfare was go- 
ing on among the beauteous lights above — so palpable — so near 
— seems impossible without noise.' 

"But no noise accompanied this wondrous display. All was 
silence. 

" After we had again descended into our cabin, so strong was 
the impression of awe left upon us that the captain said to me, 

"'Well, during the last eleven years I have spent mostly in 
these northern regions, I never have seen any thing of the aurora 
to approach the glorious vivid display just witnessed. And, to 
tell you the truth, Friend Hall, / do not care to see the like ever 
again.' 1 ". 

That this display was more than ordinarily grand was evi- 
denced by the testimony of the Innuits, particularly Tookooli- 
to, who, when she came on board a few days afterward, stated 
that she had been much struck by its remarkable brilliancy, and 
that "it had exceeded in beauty and magnificence all displays 
ever before witnessed by her." I would here make the remark 
that the finest displays of the aurora only last a few moments. 
Though it may be playing all night, yet it is only now and then 
that its grandest displays are made. As if marshaling forces, 
gathering strength, compounding material, it continues on in its 
silent workings. At length it begins its trembling throes ; beau- 
ty anon shoots out here and there, when all at once the aurora 
flashes into living hosts of powdered coruscating rainbows, belting 
the heavenly dome with such gorgeous grandeur sometimes that 
mortals tremble to behold ! 

On October 13th we had an unexpected arrival. A steamer 
and a sailing vessel were observed coming up from sea, and in 
the eveningTaoth vessels anchored on the opposite side of Field 



154 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Bay. In a short time wc ascertained that the strangers were 
well-known English whalers, being no less than the famous Cap- 
tain Parker, of the True-love, and his son, commanding the steam- 
ship Lady Celia. They had come from Cornelius Grhvnell Bay- 
in less than a day, leaving Captain Allen, of the Black Eagle, there. 
Intelligence of our schooner's wreck had reached them at that 
place a few days after it had occurred, an Esquimaux and his 
wife having traveled by land and carried the news. 

Directly there was an opportunity I paid a visit to the new- 
comers, starting from our ship early in the morning. Ugarng's 
boat and crew took me there. The party consisted of himself, 
his wife Nikujar, and child, Kokerjabin (Kudlago's widow), Ster- 
ry, and myself, besides other Esquimaux. 

When we were one mile from Look-out Island the sun was lift- 
ing his bright face from the sea. The whole ridse of mountains, 
running southeasterly to " Hall's" Island of Frobisher, was in 
plain sight, covered with white, and as we approached them, no 
opening into the harbor where the vessels were supposed to lie 
could be seen. But Nikujar, being a capital pilot, knowing every 
channel and inlet within two hundred miles of our anchorage, the 
steering-oar was given to her ; and there, seated upon the logger- 
head, with her jn-etty infant in its hood behind her neck, she steer- 
ed us correctly to the spot. 




MK-U-JAU, TUK BOAT ffTSBUB AM) PILOT. 



PARKER AND THE "TRUE-LOVE."— NIKUJAR THE PILOT. 155 

With a few good strokes of the oars, we soon entered the snug 
little cove where the Parkers had taken shelter. In a moment 
or two after passing the steamer we were standing on the deck 
of the True-love, most kindly welcomed by Captain Parker, senior, 
and shortlv afterward by his son, who came on board. I there 
found "Blind George," who immediately recognized my voice, 
•calling me by name, and saying, "How do you, Mittcr Hall?" 
and then, without waiting for reply, adding, " Pretty well, I tank 
you !" 

I was, indeed, right glad to again meet this noble but afflicted 
Esquimaux. The four times I had seen him at Cornelius Grinnell 
Bay caused him to be much impressed upon my memorj^, and 
now, strangely, here he was, and actually in presence of Nikujar, 
who was his former wife, before TJgarng took her away and made 
her his. Ugarng, however, could support the woman, and poor 
blind George could not ; hence the latter had to submit, and be 
content with an occasional visit of their only child, as an idol 
which he cherished even more than his own life. 

Captain Parker soon took me into his cabin, and had an ex- 
cellent breakfast spread on the table. After this, conversation 
turned upon many subjects of a most interesting nature. He had 
l>rought his ship, guided by an Esquimaux pilot — Ebicrbing — 
from Niountelik, in Northumberland Inlet, to Cornelius Grinnell 
Pay, through a channel 128 miles long, and not above one to two 
miles broad, behind a line of islands facing the sea. The steamer 
towed the sailing ship, as no vessel of their size could pass up or 
down such a channel unless with a fair wind. In the channel 
the flood tide runs south, while elsewhere it runs north. Captain 
Parker said the scenery was most magnificent, and there was 
plenty of salmon, deer, and other game. Altogether it was a trip, 
as he expressed it, that I would have been delighted with. 

Among the many incidents related to me by Captain Parker, 
one or two may be worth recording here. lie said that in 1833-4 
he had been down I^ince Begcnt's Inlet as far as Cape Kator. in 
company with the Isabella, Captain Humphreys, who rescued Sir 
John Eoss and his companions after their four years' abode in an 
icy home. Parker had seen Eoss's boats while on their way to 
escape, but supposing them to be the Isabella's, took no especial 
notice. In Eegent's Inlet, he said, there wore hundreds of whales 
between Cape York and Cape Kater. He had caught five off 
Cape Kater, and twenty - three more between there and Cape 



156 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

York. Seals, narwhals, white whales, and the walrus, were also 
in great abundance. 

He likewise described to me, in a most graphic manner, the ter- 
rible storm of 1830 in Baffin's Ba} r , when twenty-two vessels were 
wrecked, and yet his own ship escaped without the slightest dam- 
age. One thousand men had to make good their retreat upon the 
ice toward the Danish settlements, some 600 miles distant, and all 
arrived safely with the exception of two, who died from the ef- 
fects of spirituous liquors they injudiciously drank. 

Captain Parker, at the time I saw him, was sixty-nine years of 
age, and good, to all appearance, for half a score more iu the arc- 
tic regions. He had been navigating those northern seas (whal- 
ing) for forty-five years, with an interval of about five years, when 
he rested. He commenced in 1815, and was a commander in 
1820. He had never lost a ship. On the present voyage neither 
vessel had a chronometer. They depended upon dead reckoning for 
their longitude. 

There was a doctor on board, quite a young man, and appa- 
rently of merit. He had been one year in Springfield, Ohio. 

The True-love is well known in arctic history as connected 
with the late searching expeditions. In 1849 she landed some 
coals at Cape Hay, in Lancaster Sound, as requested by Lady 
Franklin, who sent them out, that fuel might be deposited at ev- 
ery likely spot where her husband and his companions might pos- 
sibly visit This remarkable vessel is 100 years old, and was built 
in Philadelphia, Pa. 

I explained to Captain Parker all about my plans, and he ex- 
pressed himself much interested in them, promising to let me 
have a boat I desired, as an additional one to that I should get 
from the George Henry, and which would be needed to carry my 
stores. 

On Captain Parker's invitation I remained to dinner, and then, 
after a most agreeable visit, returned to the George Henry. 

In a few days after this both the Parkers^uddenly went to sea 
— as we supposed, driven out of their anchorage by a gale that 
had been blowing, and, owing to this, I did not receive the boat 
promised me, nor were we able to send home the letters that had 
been prepared. 

It was about this time I was visited by two Esquimaux, man 
and wife, who will henceforth often appear in my narrative, and 
who, together with a child afterward born to them, accompanied 



EBIERBING AND TOOKOOLITO. 157 

me to the States. The man's name -was Ebierbing — otherwise 
called by us "Joe" — his wife's, Tookoolito, or " Hannah." 

I was informed that this couple had been taken to England 
in 1853, and presented to her majesty Queen Victoria, and that 
the female was a remarkably intelligent, and what might be called 
an accomplished woman. They had remained nearly two years 
in Great Britain, and were every where well received. I heard, 
moreover, that she was the sister of To-to and Ee-noo-loo-a-pik, 
both celebrated in their country as great travelers and intelligent 
men, and the latter well known in England from his visit there 
in 1839, and from a memoir of him published by Surgeon Mac- 
donald, of the ill-fated Franklin Expedition. Ebierbing was a 
good pilot for this coast, and had brought Captain Parker's ship 
through the channels, as already narrated. At the time of the 
gale, when my boat and the Rescue were wrecked, he was up in 
Northumberland Inlet, and also lost a boat of his own. 

When I visited Captain Parker "Joe" was not on board, nor 
did I know much of him until the above particulars were furnish- 
ed to me. I was, therefore, naturally anxious to see this couple, 
and looked forward to our meeting with much hope that it would 
prove not only pleasing, but useful in many ways. The first in- 
terview I had is recorded in my journal as follows : 

"November 2, 1860. While intently occupied in my cabin, writ- 
ing, I heard a soft, sweet voice say ' Good morning, sir.' The 
lone in which it was spoken — musical, lively, and varied — instant- 
ly told me that a lady of refinement was there, greeting me. I 
was astonished. Could I be dreaming? Was it a mistake ? No! 
I was wide awake, and writing. But, had a thunder-clap sound- 
ed on my ear, though it was snowing at the time, I could not 
have been more surprised than I was at the sound of that voice. 
I raised my head : a lady was indeed before me, and extending 
an ungloved hand. 

"Of course, my welcome to such an unexpected visitor in these 
regions was as befitting as my astonished faculties for the mo- 
ment could make it. The doorway in which she stood leads 
from the main cabin into my private room. Directly over this 
entrance was the skylight, admitting a flood of light, and thus re- 
vealed to me crinoline, heavy flounces, an attenuated toga, and an 
Immensely expanded ' kiss-mc-rmick' bonnet, but the features I 
♦ould not at first make out. 

l? ' Coming events cast their shadows before them.' Ladies are 



158 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

events casting xtmhra and ftenunibra along wherever their path- 
way be, thus bespeaking glory about them constantly. Knowing 
the philosophy of all this even before leaving the States, I imme- 
diately tried to do honor to my unknown visitor. But, on turn- 
ing her face, who should it be but a lady Esquimaux ! "Whence, 
thought I, came this civilization refinement? But, in a moment 
more, I was made acquainted with my visitor. She was the Too- 
koolito I had so much desired to see, and directly I conversed 
with her she showed herself to be quite an accomplished person. 
She spoke my own language fluently, and there, seated at my 
right in the main cabin, I had a long and interesting conversa- 
tion with her. Ebierbing, her husband — a fine, and also intelli- 
gent-looking man — was introduced to me, and, though not speak- 
ing English so well as his wife, yet I could talk with him tolera- 
bly well. From them I gleaned many interesting particulars of 
their visit to England, and I was gratified to hear that they had 
actually dined with Prince Albert, who treated them very kindly, 
and with much consideration. 

" Ebierbing, in speaking of the queen, said he liked her very 
much, and she was quite ' pretty.' He also said that Prince Albert 
was a ' very kind, good man, and he should never forget him.' " 

The following conversation, as copied from my journal, written 
at the time, will show the sentiments of Tookoolito on civilized 
life. 

I asked her how she would like to live in England. She re- 
plied, " I would like very well, I thank you." 

" Would you like to go to America with me?" said I. 

" I would indeed, sir," was the ready reply. 

In reference to the Queen of England, she said, 

"I visited her, and liked ike appearance of her majesty, and 
every thing about the palace. Fine place, I assure you, sir." 

Tookoolito was suffering with a cold, and I noticed that when- 
ever she coughed she threw her face on one side and held her 
hand before her lips, the same as any lady of good manners would. 
Her costume was that of civilization, being a dress with heavy 
flounces, an elegant toga made of young tuktoo fur deeply fringed, 
and a bonnet of the style invented on the principle "cover the 
head by a rosette on its back !" 

As Tookoolito continued speaking, I could not help admirina 
the exceeding gracefulness and modesty of her demeanor. Sinw 
pie and gentle in her way, there was a degree of calm intellectual 



LOST IN A SXOW-STOKM. 159 

power about her tbat more and more astonished me. I felt de- 
lighted bej-ond measure, because of the opportunity it gave me 
for becoming better acquainted with these people through her 
means, and I hoped to improve it toward the furtherance of the 
great object I had in view. 

After a stay of some duration she went on shore, and the fol- 
lowing day I visited her and her husband at their tent. She was 
then in native costume, and it seemed to me that this suited her 
even better than the other. 

Some short time after this, I made an excursion by myself to 
the island on which was situated the Esquimaux "North Star" 
village. 

The day became stormy after I had landed in one of the native 
boats, but I continued my walk, accompanied by the dogs, to a 
part of the island I wished to visit. On arriving there, I found a 
sort of natural causeivay, formed of stones, leading to a smaller 
islet, and, crossing it, I continued examining the locality for some 
time. At length the snow-storm increased so much as to compel 
my return, and I made my way back to the south side of the 
main island. 

But now I could hardly see my way. The snow came down 
so thick that I was fain to take shelter under the lee of some 
rocks near me, and, while there, I examined my compass to as- 
certain if I was going right. To my astonishment, I found the 
course I had pursued was exactly the reverse of the right one. I 
looked again and again, and yet the needle pointed exactly oppo- 
site to what I had expected. What was I to do ? retrace my 
steps ? For a moment I hesitated ; but at length moving on, I 
was about walking back as I had come, when, on looking at the 
compass again, I found it just the opposite of what it was before ! 
Strange, thought I. Surely there must be local attraction in the 
rocks where I took shelter. But still it made me anxious, espe- 
cially as the weather was becoming worse. Indeed, I felt it very 
possible I might be lost in the storm, and perhaps have to wander 
about all the coming night, or be frozen to death by remaining 
stationary, should the compass play me another trick ; but at last, 
thanks to my faithful dogs, they actually guided mo straight to 
the village, where I arrived without any mishap. 

The one I entered was Ebierbing's. He himself had gone out, 
b$, Tookoolito welcomed me as usual, soon entering into lively 
and instructive conversation. Two native boys were there at the 



160 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

time, and Tookoolito herself was busy knitting socles for her hus- 
band! Yes, to my surprise, she was thus engaged, as if she had 
been in a civilized land and herself civilized, instead of beiug an 
Esquimaux in her own native wilds of ice and snow 1 

It was a strange contrast, the sight within that tent and the 
view without. The latter presented a picture of barrenness and 
storm ; the former much that tended to the idea of warmth and 
home. Knitting stockings for her husband ! How much of dear 
home was in that- favorite domestic occupation ! Then, too, her 
voice, her words and language, the latter in my own vernacular, 
were something more than common in that region. I have before 
said that she was peculiarly pleasing and refined in her style and 
manners ; and now, while sheltering me beneath her hospitable 
roof, with the bright lamp before me, the lively prattle of the two 
boys came in strong contrast to the soft tones of her partly civil- 
ized tongue as my mind opened to receive all she uttered. 

What she said, and what my impressions were at the time, will 
be found in the following extract from my journal : 

"November 14^,1860. Tookoolito, after returning from En- 
gland five years ago, where she and her wing-a (husband) spent 
twenty months, commenced diffusing her accomplishments in va- 
rious ways, to wit, teaching the female portion of the nation, such 
as desired, to knit, and the various useful things practiced by civ- 
ilization. In all the places around Northumberland Inlet she has 
lived, and done what she could to improve her people. A singu- 
lar fact relative to dressing her hair, keeping her face and hands 
cleanly, and wearing civilization dresses — others of her sex, in con- 
siderable numbers, follow these fashions imported by her. This 
shows to me what one person like Tookoolito could accomplish 
in the way of the introduction of schools and churches among 
this people. To give this woman an education in the States, and 
subsequent employment in connection with several of our mis- 
sionaries, would serve to advance a noble and good work. And 
yet I must state that, unless a working colony, or several of them, 
were established, co-operating in this work, and laws were made 
by the fundamental power that should be as rigid relative to whal- 
ers visiting the coasts as those of Denmark to Greenland, all would 
be as naught. 

"The working or trading colony would make its government, 
school, and church institutions self-supporting. Let the 2)la?i of 
Denmark for Greenland be followed. It is a good one, and works 
well. 



THE ESQUIMAUX LANGUAGE.— VARIOUS DIALECTS. 161 

"While in the tent, Tookoolito brought out the book I had 
given her, and desired to be instructed. She has got so she can 
spell 'words of two letters, and pronounce most of them properly. 
Her progress is praiseworthy. At almost every step of advance- 
ment, she feels as elated as a triumphant hero in battle. She is 
far more anxious to learn to read and write than Ebierbing. I 
feel greater confidence (allowing it were possible to feel so) in the 
success of my mission since engaging these two natives. They 
can talk with me in my own vernacular, are both smart, and will 
be useful each in the department they will be called upon to fill. 
Tookoolito will especially fill the place of an interpreter, having 
the capacity for it surpassing Karl Petersen, the Dane, who has 
been employed as Esquimaux interpreter by various expeditions 
in search of Sir John Franklin — 1st, by Captain Penny, 1S50-1 ; 
2d, by Dr. Kane, 1853-5 ; 3d, by Captain (now Sir Leopold) 
MClintock, 1857-9. 

" Tookoolito, I have no doubt, will readily accomplish the dif- 
ferences in language between the Innuits of Boothia and King 
"William's Land, and that of her own people around Northumber- 
land Inlet and Davis's Strait. The pronunciation of the same 
words by communities of Esquimaux living at considerable dis- 
tances from each other, and having but little intercourse, is so dif- 
ferent that it is with difficulty they are understood one by the 
other. I should judge, from the very great difference of the lan- 
guage as spoken by the Greenlanders and the natives on the west 
side of Davis's Strait, that Petersen was of little service to M'Clin- 
tock as an Esquimaux interpreter. This conclusion would be ar- 
rived at by any one reading the narrative of M'Clintock's inter- 
views with the natives on King William's Land. 

" The Greenlanders have a mixed language consisting of Dan- 
ish and Esquimaux. ***** * Even the intercourse 
of the whalers with the Esquimaux around Northumberland In- 
let has introduced among them many words that are now in con- 
Btant use. Tookoolito informed me to-day that the words picka- 
ninny, for infant; cooney, for wife; pussy, for seal; Husky, for 
Innuit ; smoketute, for pipe, and many other words, are not Es- 
quimaux, though in use among her people. 

" I now complete the tupic interview'. Before I was aware of 
it, Tookoolito had the 'tea-kettle' over the friendly fire-lamp, and 
th- water boiling. She asked me if I drank tea. Imagine my 
surprise at this, the question coming from an Esquimaux in an 

L 



162 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Esquimaux tent ! I replied, 'I do ; but you have not tea here, 
have you ?' Drawing her hand from a little tin box, she display- 
ed it full of fine-flavored black tea, saying, ' Do you like your tea 
strong?' Thinking to spare her the use of much of this precious 
article away up here, far from the land of civilization, I replied, 
'I'll take it weak, if you please.' A cup of hot tea was soon be- 
fore me — capital tea, and capitally made. Taking from my pocket 
a sea-biscuit which I had brought from the vessel for my dinner, 
I shared it with my hostess. Seeing she had but one cup, I in- 
duced her to share with me its contents. There, amid the snows 
of the North, under an Esquimaux's hospitable tent, in company 
with Esquimaux, for the first time I shared with them in that 
soothing, cheering, invigorating emblem of civilization — T-E-A ! 
Tookoolito says that she and her winga (husband) drink it nearly 
every night and morning. They acquired a taste for it in Eng- 
land, and have since obtained their annual supply from English 
and American whalers visiting Northumberland Inlet. 

"By-the-by, Tookoolito said to me during the entertainment 
just described, ' I feel very sorry to say that many of the whaling 
people are very bad, making the Innuits bad too; they swear 
very much, and make our people swear. I wish they would not 
do so. Americans swear a great deal — more and worse than the En- 
glish. I wish no one would swear. It is a very bad practice, I 
believe.' 

"How, think you, beloved Americans, I felt with these hot coals 
on my head ? Oh that ever}' swearing man, and every saint, could 
have seen and heard that Esquimaux woman as she spoke thus ! 
I had just returned from a hard encounter with deep snow — fall- 
ing snow, driven by almost a hurricane ; but, God, give me a 
thousand storms — worse, if they could be — rather than have the 
like thundering in my ears again ! Her words, her looks, her voice, 
her tears, are in my very soul still. Here, one of the iron daugh- 
ters of the rocky, ice-ribbed North, standing like an angel, pleading 
the cause of the true God" weeping for the sad havoc made and 
making among her people by those of my countrymen who should 
have been, and ever should be, the glorious representatives of 
freedom, civilization, and Christianity ! It was too much ; I was a 
child. I confess, I blushed for this stain upon my country's hon- 
or — not only this, but for the wickedness diffused almost through- 
out the unenlightened world by the instrumentality of whalers 
hailimr; from civilized lands. 



T00K00L1T0 REBUKING SWEARERS. 



163 



" This I am ready to admit, that some commanders, some offi- 
cers, and some crews of whaling ships are as they should be, exem- 
plary men — men who take pleasure in doing good wherever they 
are — who seek to extend the bounds of civilization, planting phil- 
anthropic and Christian institutions where darkness and igno- 
rance had before reigned universal. 

"Being now ready to return — three o'clock P.M. — Ebierbing 
kindly gathered a crew from among his friends to convey me 
aboard. Much scko (ice) had set into the cove, causing us great 
trouble and delay to get out. Once clear, a few strokes brought 
us alongside. 

" 10 o'clock, night, thermometer 29°, barometer 29.525 ; wind 
south — fresh ; cloudy." 




UONE 6Lni»GE-ECNNER. 



16-J. ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Visit to Esquimaux Village. — First Specimen of domestic Life among the Innuits. 
— Seal's Blood excellent, — Blind George in Trouble. — His paternal Affection. — 
"Black Skin" for Food. — Female Tongues good Cleaners. — The Angeko. — Ex- 
traordinary Conduct of the Natives. — The Angeko's Power. — Mysteries of Innuit 
Worship. — Koojesse's Trepidation. — Angeko's Cunning. — Choice of Wives. — Cu- 
rious Guide Poles to Travelers. — Charley's independence of Angeko. — Ship beset 
in the Ice. — Hoar-frost on the Rigging. — Changes of Temperature. — Sudden 
Movements of the Ice. — Frozen in. — A Bear-hunt.— Author's first Encounter with 
a Bear. — Death of Bruin. — Visit the Tupic of Ebierbing. — Scarcity of Innuit 
Food and Fuel. — The Esquimaux Lamp. — Patience and Perseverance of an In- 
nuit Hunter. — An Igloo. 

At this time I frequently paid visits to the Esquimaux village, 
and one trip I find recorded in my journal as follows: 

" October 30. After dinner a boat was sent from the ship to ob- 
tain some fresh water at the head of the bay, and I availed my- 
self of the opportunity to go on shore. Smith had charge of the 
boat, and in less than an hour we arrived at a beautiful little har- 
bor two and a half miles distant northwesterly from the vessel. 
Here there was a complete Esquimaux village, and all the inhab- 
itants, men, women, children, and dogs, rushed out to meet us. 
Our crew consisted of five white men, and each of them soon en- 
gaged a native to carry water to the boat, while he himself sought 
amusement among the tents. Smith and I walked on for about 
an eighth of a mile to the lakelet where the water was obtained, 
and put the Esquimaux fairly to work. We then returned, and 
called at one of the tents. Smith, being first, intended to pass in, 
but had no sooner lifted the folding door (pendent skins) and in- 
troduced his head, than he rapidly withdrew it again, exclaiming, 
: Whew ! By thunder, I'm not going in there! It's crowded, and 
smells horribly. How it looms up !' He then turned away, but 
I, having more inducements to bear the infliction, determined to 
pass in. 

" Bowing down almost to a horizontal position, in went head, 
shoulders, body, and all. The next second I found myself butt 
up against a dozen Esquimaux, all lusty fellows, and crowded to- 
gether in a heap, each armed with a knife ! But there was no 
cause for alarm. The knives were not for any warlike or evil 



SEAL-BLOOD SOUP. 165 

purpose. They were being used simply for cutting off strips of 
seal, to be shoved into the -widely-extended mouths of the hungry 
people before me. Quite at the back of the tent I perceived my 
Esquimaux friend Koojesse seated between two pretty females, 
all three engaged in doing full justice to a dish of smoking-Jiot seal- 
blood! Seeing me, Koojesse at first seemed abashed ; but, on my 
expressing a readiness to partake of any food they had to spare, 
one of the women immediately drew forth from the stew-pan about 
four inches of seal vertebras, surrounded by good meat. I man- 
aged to eat the latter, and then determined to try the seal-blood. 
To my surprise, I found it excellent. 

" On first receiving the dish containing this Esquimaux stew, I 
hesitated. It had gone the round several times, being replenish- 
ed as occasion required ; but its external appearance was not at 
all inviting. Probably it had never gone through the cleaning- 
process, for it looked as though such were the case. But I screw- 
ed up courage to try it, and finally, when the dish again came to 
those by my side, I asked Koojesse, 'Pe-e-uke?' (Is it good?) 
' Armelarng, armelarng' (Yes, yes), was the reply. 

"All eyes were fixed upon me as I prepared to join with them 
in drinking some of their favorite soup. 

"Now the custom of Esquimaux in drinking seal-blood is to 
take one long s-o-o-o-p — one mouthful, and then pass the dish on 
to the rest till the round is made. I followed suit, and, to my as- 
tonishment, found the mixture not only good, but really excel- 
lent. I could not have believed it was so far superior to what 
my previous notions had led me to expect. 

" Seeing I was pleased with it, she who presided at the feast in- 
stantly made ready a pretty little cup, which was clean outside 
and in, or as clean as an Esquimaux can make it, and filled it 
with the hot seal-blood. This I sipped down with as much satis- 
faction as any food I had eaten in my life ; and, in return for the 
friendly act of my Innuit hostess, I gave her a highly-colored cot- 
ton handkerchief. She was in ecstasies with it, and the whole 
company joined with her in expressions of kindness and good- 
will toward me. Clearly I had ingratiated myself with one party 
of the natives here, and this I was determined to do in like man- 
ner elsewhere. 

"Soon afterward I left them, and, crawling out of their tent on 
all-fours, passed through the Tillage toward the beach. On the 
way I heard a voice calling out ' Mittcr Hall — Mitter Hall ;' and, 



166 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

on turning round, perceived poor ' Blind George.' I went to him, 
and found that he was in great trouble. He tried to tell me all 
his grief, but with difficulty could he give utterance to his words. 
'Ugarng,' said he, 'Ugarng home to-day? My pickaninny away 
go. Mitter Hall, speak-um, my pickaninny — speak-um, my pick- 
aninny here.' 

" The fact was that, as already stated, Ugarng had got his child, 
and the poor blind man wanted her to be with him for a while. 
I therefore spoke to Ugarng, and often afterward little Kookoo- 
yer was seen by her father's side. 

" While in the village I called at another tent, and was treated 
to a liberal piece of ' black skin' after it had been well cleansed 
of foreign substances by the free application of a lad3 T 's tongue !" 

On November 10th I again visited the shore, accompanying 
the water-boat. We found the lakelet frozen over, and that our 
ice-axe by mistake had been left on board. This would have 
proved a great annoyance to us had not one of the Esquimaux 
(Charley) brought his seal-spear to our aid, and speedily opened a 
good-sized " well-hole." In helping to carry the water, I fell into 
line with the natives, joining them in their mirthfulness of heart 
as they went along. As we passed the topics, every woman and 
child gave a joyous smile and kindly word to the stranger. It 
was on this occasion, after I had been about two hours on shore, 
that I noticed something unusual bad occurred. An excited 
crowd of natives were rapidly gathering round a } 7 oung man who 
appeared to be frantically addressing them. Whatever his object, 
I soon perceived that he contrived to greatly affect his hearers. 
One moment he made them like infuriated demons ; at another, 
they were melted to tears. Now they were clenching their fists 
and gesticulating in a maddened way ; presently they were calm 
and full of joyful repose. It was astonishing the hold he had 
over the people around him. So complete was this power that a 
simple motion with the tip of his finger would be followed by de- 
monstrative movements on the part of the audience. An Esqui- 
maux might be quietly enjoying a smoke, when a word from the 
orator would bring the pipe from the smoker's mouth to the 
speaker's pouch, or into the man's own pocket, just as directed. 

I soon ascertained that the orator was an angefco, or wizard- 
man, and that his name was Ming-u-mai-h. Though young, he 
was very much credited by the whole population of that and the 
neighboring village. As I approached, his eye. soon caught mine, 



THE ANGEKO. 167 

and immediately leaving his snow rostrum, he bounded like a 
deer toward me. "With a face of innocence and full of smiles, he 
grasped my hand and welcomed me to his magic home; but, 
though returning the salutation in a friendly manner, I could not 
so cordially evince pleasure at his acquaintance as I generally did 
with others. It appeared to me that he was one of those who 
lived upon the credulity and ignorance of his race, and this 
thought probably made itself perceptible on my features ; at all 
events, in a moment or so he left me, and, throwing his arm 
around Ugarng's neck, he walked with him into a tent, whither 
they were soon followed bj" Charley and the rest of our hired wa- 
ter-carriers. Koojesse was of the number ; and, while I was look- 
ing on, much surprised, loud and exciting words were heard from 
within. Presently Koojesse came out ; and upon my making in- 
quiries, he told me, in a cautious manner, that the angeko was at 
work, as we should call it, exorcising and otherwise performing 
various spiritual exercises ! 

Fearing to be considered intrusive, I walked away toward the 
boat, Koojesse again taking up his water-bucket and continuing 
his work ; but hardly had I reached the landing-place when down 
came Mingumailo with a proud and excited step. lie took me 
by the arm and beckoned me to go with him. I did so, being de- 
sirous of witnessing some of the farther acts of this curious and 
important personage. 

"We walked, arm in arm, toward what, though only a tent, I 
might well style his temple, for toward it several of his worshipers 
were bending their steps. As we passed along, Koojesse was seen 
in the distance with a bucket of water in each hand. In an in- 
fant, at one word, one motion of my companion, Koojesse, 
though otherwise a man of great intelligence and strong mind, 
left his water just where it was and joined us. On approaching 
the tupic, Mingumailo ordered Koojesse to go in first, and then 
directed me to follow. I did so by falling upon my hands and 
knees, and, in this necessary posture, entered the abode of our Es- 
quimaux prophet. The angeko followed, and immediately di- 
rected Koojesse to take a position on one side of the bed that was 
within, and me to be on the other side. Next to Koojesse was 
seated a pretty Esquimaux woman, one of the nulianas (wives) 
"f the angeko, the other wife — for he had two — not then being at 
home. 

Now commenced the solemn exercises of the peculiar worship 



163 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

of these people. Mingumailo sat facing us. He began by rapidly 
clapping his hands; so rapidly, indeed, that it was impossible to 
count the strokes. Then he accompanied this clapping by some 
metaphorical expressions beyond the power of ordinary intelli- 
gences to divine ; and, indeed, no one but an angeko is considered 
capable of divining them. In fact, the word angeko signifies l he is 
very greed,' and this is given as a reason why none but angekos — 
the really great — should understand. Of course, I demeaned my- 
self accordingly, and was as quiet and serious a listener as any 
one there. Occasionally the angeko would cease his voice and 
the motion of his hands. Then all became still as death. Pres- 
ently, with renewed vigor he would recommence his services, pat- 
ting his hands — which were moved around during the operation 
— now in a circle, now before my face, now before Koojesse's. 
Another minute he would pat the chest on which he sat, first on 
one end, then on the other, next on this side, then on that, after- 
ward on the top, and so repeating all the operations again and 
again. Every now and then, with his eyes staring into the far- 
thest recesses of the tent, he would become fixed as marble, and 
looking quite hideous. 

At such times Koojesse was brought into active use. He was 
directed, as muck by the angeko's signs as by the sudden and 
sharp words uttered, to fix his eyes upon this point of the tent, 
then that, but more particularly to where it was said by the wiz- 
ard 'Kudlagd's spirit shook the skin coverings. 1 

Poor Koojesse ! I could not help pitying him, though myself 
hardly able to control the laughter reigning within me. There 
he sat, large drops of perspiration streaming from his nose (Es- 
quimaux sweat profusely only on the nose), and as earnest as 
though life and soul were the issue. All at once came unusual 
efforts. The climax was at hand. A grand finale was to take 
place, and this was done with a sprinkling of clear words in Es- 
quimaux, just enough for Koojesse and myself to understand. 
The angeko spirit spoke: 'He was in want. The kodluna (white 
7nan) could relieve his wants. "Would not the kodluna give the 
spirit one of the double-barreled guns in his possession?' 

This was enough. I saw through the scheme in a moment; 
but, though astounded at the impudence of the proposition. I be- 
trayed nothing to show surprise. I merely turned to Koojesse, 
and quietly asked if that was really the angeko's meaning. The 
reply, in subdued tones, was ' yes ;' whereupon I farther asked 



CHOICE OF THE ANGEKO'S WIVES. 1G9 

him if this man -would be very useful in my future explorations 
to King William's Land ; and on being answered in the affirma- 
tive, I said aloud, ' Well, if Angeko goes with me next season, he 
shall have a gun — one of my best.' This made the wizard-man 
leap for joy ; for he thought, as I afterward found, that I meant to 
give it him at once. He grasped my hands, he threw his arms 
around my neck, he danced about the tent, and did many other 
extravagant things, which showed his gratification on making such 
a triumph of skill and strategy. He had, as he chose to believe 
(though I immediately explained, or tried to explain, that the gift 
was not intended for the moment), accomplished a great feat in 
charming a Icodluna into giving him a gun as recognition of his 
magical power. So complete was his happiness, that he told me I 
should have the choice of his two wives, all his (uktoo skins (rein- 
deer furs) that I might need, and sealskins for making boots, with 
other articles in abundance. That he had great riches of this de- 
scription — probably obtaimed from his credulous worshipers — 
was evident from the rolls of beautiful skins I saw around me. 

While the angeko was thus expressing himself, his second wife 
came in, and quietly took a position near the household lamp, 
which she began to renew with fresh seal-blubber. This gave 
Mingumailo the opportunity to again press the offer of one of his 
wives to me. He begged of me, there and then, to select either 
of them ; but I soon gave him to understand I was already sup- 
plied with a wife at home. 

This, however, neither satisfied his ideas about matrimony, nor 
— as it appeared — those of his wives ; for both of them at once 
decked themselves out in all the smiles and blandishments that 
they possessed. I asked them if they really coincided in the offer 
their husband had made, and was immediately told that they glad- 
ly did. However, I was about again declining the offer, when 
the angeko suddenly made a sign to Koojesse, and both departed, 
leaving me alone with the proffered wives. I uttered a few kind 
words to them, and, giving each a plug of tobacco with a friendly 
grasp of the hand, left the tupic and went toward the boat. 

On my way, and just outside the angeko's tupic, I noticed an 
oar of a kia stuck upright in a drift of frozen snow. Upon it 
were suspended little packages done up in red woolen rags, dif- 
ferently and ingeniously arranged. On one side hung a portion 
of a well-dressed sealskin, beautifully variegated by parti-colored 
patches sewed on to it as if for signs. I inquired of several Es- 



170 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

quimaux the meaning of this, but none would inform me till I 
met Koojesse, who said it was for a guide to any Irmuit stranger 
traveling that way, and who was thus welcomed, as well as direct- 
ed what to do. 

As soon as Koojesse had left the tent, he immediately set to 
work in completing the operation of filling our water-cask. He 

had been told by Captain B to find, fill, and send off another 

cask, left on shore during some stormy weather a few days back, 
and this he now did by directing nearly the whole inhabitants of 
the village to aid in the task. Every conceivable article possessed 
by the natives that would hold water, from a pint up to a gallon, 
was brought into requisition. Most of these articles were made 
of tin, supplied by the various whaling ships A'isiting Northum- 
berland Inlet, but it would have puzzled a white man to detect 
any difference between their color and a negro's. Some of the 
vessels, however, were made of odkgooh skins, and were excellent 
affairs — water-tight, light, but strong, and in no danger of being 
broken or indented. 

As soon as the one cask in our boat was full we were ready for 
starting, when it was ascertained that Ugarng and Kunniu were 
absent. Seeking for them caused some slight delay, and, mean- 
while, Angeko began his tricks again. By signs he first ordered 
one, and then another of the Esquimaux, to do this and do that, 
and, with a single exception, all obeyed. The exception .was 
Kooperneung (Charley), who, standing in the boat's stem, was 
smoking a pipe. He was told by the angeko to put away his 
pipe; but Charley, with the same smiling face that he generally 
possessed, laughed loud and heartily as he laid hold of his pipe, 
gave it a swing, and replaced it, smoking away as before. Evi- 
dently Charley was an Independent, though I imagined, from 
what I had seen of him before going to the wizard's tent, that his 
bravado now was more because he was under present civilized 
rule than from any real strength of mind in the matter. 

The other natives pulling the boat were servilely obedient. At 
a signal from the angeko, who swung his arms on high, my Innuit 
crew tossed up their oars, and turned their attention to the shore. 
There we saw him surrounded by the villagers, and making signs 
for us to return. 

Now Ugarng had on his neck a colored kerchief given him by 
some civilized hand. This was stated by the angeko to be a great 
encumbrance, and would be better off than on — in fact, would be 



HOAR-FROST. 171 

better in his, tbe wizard's possession, than tbc present bolder's. 
Accordingly, with great reluctance, Ugarng unwound it from his 
neck and cast it on shore to his master. Mingumailo swung it 
proudly in the air, wound it around his waist, and expanded it^. 
between his outstretched hands, all the time making his way to- 
ward the village like a conqueror, followed by his people ! 

After this wc were allowed to depart, and in due time I got on 
board. 

"November 19th, 1860. Last night the ice from the head of the 
bay set down upon the ship, completely closing us in. We are 
now cut off, for the present, from all the world. We can not ap- 
proach the land, nor can any one from the shore approach us. 
This will continue until the ice becomes solid enough to make a 
pathway upon it." 

Such is the record in my journal under that date, and I here 
transcribe it to note the day when we were first "beset." 

The temperature at this time was +5°, and the weather mod- 
erate and clear. In the day it was cloudy, but wc had the sun 
shining upon us for a few moments, to show me how prettily its 
soft light could play with the crystal white of the ship's rigging. 
Again and again did I look upon the scene. It was truly beauti- 
ful ! Hoar-frost crystals — piles upon piles of crystals standing out 
boldy to windward, six inches from the masts and rigging! 

Two days afterward the ice had hardened sufficiently to form a 
good protection to the ship during a heavy gale that came on, and 
which probably would have driven us from our anchorage had we 
not been thus guarded. The next day, however, we had open iva- 
ler all around ws, the ice having been broken and driven out to 
sea by a change of wind when the gale abated. But toward even- 
ing it again came in, though not strong enough to inclose us. 
Thus it continued setting in from seaward until, on the 23d, we 
were again fast bound and firmly fixed by a solid pack for the 
winter. To me the change seemed almost magical. At noon of 
Wednesday, 21st, we had been bedded in ice that seemed fast for 
the winter. At 6 P.M. of that day, in some places the ice began 
to give way. During the ensuing night all of it had left the har- 
bor and bay. 

Morning of the next day saw us clear. At 3 P.M., the wind 
being southerly, some pieces of ice were seen floating toward us 
from sea, but still we were free. This morning of the 23d, how- 
ever, the harbor and bay, save* a narrow channel of water, was one 



172 AECTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

complete mass of ice. Up to the extent of the bay, running X. 
N.W. full fifteen miles from its entrance, all was quite a solid 
pack, much of it five to seven feet thick, though in some parts 
Only from one to three feet. 

The temperature of the sea water at this time was 26°, and the 
air 18° ; the barometer 29.55, and wind fresh from the west. 

On this day, finding it impossible to any longer use the boats, 
they were dismantled for the season. Nearly nine months must 
elapse before they can be used again. 

Sunday, the 25th of November, we had a heavy gale from the 
eastward, bringing with it a remarkably warm air (the thermom- 
eter 32°), and breaking up some of the ice in such a manner that 
at one time we expected to be driven out to sea with it. We 
were, however, preserved by the pack, in one portion remaining 
firm, and thus giving us a shelter, though not more than a hund- 
red yards from where the disruption was taking place. On the 
1st of December there was a great calm, lasting till the 4th ; but 
finally, on the 6th of December, we were no longer under any 
doubt as to being well secured in the solid ice for the winter. In 
all directions, the harbor and bay were completely frozen over. 

On November 24th I had my first sight of, and encounter with, 
a polar bear. I was engaged writing in my cabin, when a shout 
was heard on deck, "A bear! a bear!" and immediately relin- 
quishing my pen for the rifle, I went up and joined a party who 
started in chase. 

Sterry and the Esquimaux ITgarng had already gone off to the 
hunt, and I rapidly followed, accompanied by " Charley," while 
all the natives that had been on board, and several of the ship's 
crew, came after us. The bear took a direction near the island 
where my dogs had been placed, and the howling they made was 
truly terrible. 

As Charley and I neared one of the outer islands, about half a 
mile from the ship, bang went the first gun. Then a second re- 
port, and soon afterward I could see the bear retreating across a 
channel to another island. He had received some severe wounds, 
for blood was pouring out on either side of him, crimsoning his 
white coat and the ice beneath. The channel was covered over 
with ice that appeared too frail for us to make passage upon. 
Down through this ice every now and then the bear would plunge. 
But soon returning to the same hole, he slid himself out of it upon 
the ice in a very sprawling, but to me interesting manner. Once 



A BEAR-IIUNT. 173 

out, he immediately rose upon bis haunches, knocked his torment- 
ors (the Esquimaux dogs) to the right and left with his fore paws, 
and then ran on. But the dogs were again upon his track, sur- 
rounding and cutting off his retreat to the shore. Thus we were 
soon up with him, though keeping at a respectful distance from 
the wounded prey. Charley desiring to try his hand at my rifle, 
and knowing he was a good marksman, I allowed him to do so. 
He fired as the bear was again on his haunches engaged with the 
dogs. The shot took effect in his breast, and the brave beast fell 
kicking and tumbling ; but, after a moment's struggle, was once 
more on his feet again, flying away. Morgan, of our ship, now 
tried his double-barrel, with three bullets in each, but both barrels 
missed fire. Another shot was then fired, and this time the bear 
tumbled over, as we all thought, dead. A cheer from us follow- 
ed; but hardly had our voices died away, when the poor beast 
was again on his feet struggling to get off, white men, Esquimaux, 
and dogs all after him. Once more a heavy charge — this time 
from Morgan's gun — went into him, striking his face and eyes, 
and down went Bruin " dead again." One cheer was given, then 
another commenced, when, lo ! as if the noise had revived him, 
the brute, seemingly with as many lives as a cat is said to have, 
went off again, running feebly, but still with some remaining 
vigor. Spears were now thrown at him by the natives, but these 
rebounded from his tough hide, proving as harmless to him as 
tooth-picks. 

Once more he was down. Then raising his head, and looking 
round upon his foes, which numbered a full score without includ- 
ing the dogs, he seemed as if preparing for the last fight and 
death-spring. It was a dangerous moment, and so all felt. But 
now was the time for me to try my hand. Hitherto I had not 
fired. This, then, was the moment to do so. I stepped out, and 
placed the hair-trigger as it should be, and leveled my gun. 

" Shoot at his head ! give it him in the skull !" was the cry 
from those around ; but I watched my opportunity, and, when he 
gave a certain downward throw -of his head, fired, tapping the 
jugular vein. It was enough. One convulsive movement, as 
the blood oozed out from the keen cut made by my rifle ball, and 
the life of the polar bear was ended. 

The next task was to get the carcass on board, and at first we 
intended to drag it there. A line of sufficient length was upon 
the ground, ready for placing round the bear's neck ; but this was 



in 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



finally abandoned, as his weight (near that of an ox) would break 
through the treacherous ice around the island where we were. It 




EEAR-11CKT— ." TATI'ISG THE JUUULAU- 



was then decided that the Esquimaux should skin the animal on 
the spot, quarter it, and thus carry it piecemeal to the ship. Ac- 
cordingly, we left them to the task, and had not long been back 
to our cabins when the prize arrived, the carcass still smoking 
hot, though the skin was already frozen stiff. 

I should mention that, as soon as the bear was discovered, 
Ebierbing hastened after it with his dogs, which were regularly 
trained to keep bears in check until rifles and spears should ar- 
rive. The dogs which I had brought from Greenland never had 
been " educated" for bear fights, therefore they seemed to act upon 
the principle that " distance lends enchantment to the view" by 
getting upon the most distant and highest part of the island on 
which the bear was killed. 

As regards the use made of our prize, I have only to say that 
we divided it with the Esquimaux, and had a capital dinner of a 
portion of our share. I liked it better than the best of beefsteaks. 

A day or two after this bear-hunt I paid another visit to North 
Star village, accompanied by Ebierbing, who took me direct to 
his tupic. After passing on all-fours through the low snow-pas- 
sage which he had made, leading to the interior, I found myself 



ESQUIMAUX STONE LAMP AND FIRE. 175 

facing Tookoolito, seated near a lamp, and herself covered with 
skins, she having been taken sick on the last occasion of vis- 
iting our ship. Mittens, boots, stockings, and articles of clothing, 
all in a wet state, were on the " dry net" that always hangs over 
the. lamp, but on this occasion the lamp was not performing its 
usual heat-giving functions. Owing to the backwardness of the 
cold season in freezing up the bay, the condition of the natives 
from want of blubber and food was in an alarming state. Many 
of them could have no friendly lamp to give light and heat. 

The Esquimaux lamp is the " all in all" to these people. By it 
their igloo is lighted and kept warm ; by it they melt ice or snow 
for their drink ; and by it they dry their clothing, mittens, boots, 
stockings, etc. Without the lamp, Esquimaux could not live — 
not so much because of its warmth or use for cooking, but be- 
cause it enables them to dry their skin clothing, melt ice for drink, 
and gives them light during the long arctic night of winter. 




BOOU-L1M ami IK-KU-MK1S, 

the Stone Lamp and Fire of the Esquimaux. 

"When I called upon Tookoolito the lamp was without oil, and 
could apt give either sufficient light, heat, or drying power, hence 
the melancholy aspect of her otherwise happy abode. Ebierbing, 
however, intended ve»y soon to make a sealing excursion, and ob- 
tain blubber at any risk. 

When obliged, Esquimaux do not hesitate in undergoing the 
greatest privations to get food for their families. They will watch 
over a seal-hole for one hour or fifty, if need be, in the coldest 
weather, waiting for the seal to come up and breathe. Kvdlago 
in this manner caught the first seeds of the complaint which car- 
ried him off. Tlis family were starving; and after bearing the 
pain of seeing them suffer for a few days, he could endure it no 



176 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

longer. Lie went out in some of the worst and coldest weather 
known here, and exposed himself for nearly two days and nights 
continuously, patiently watching for a seal, which he eventually 
captured. Ebierbing now intended to do the same thing rather 
tbau allow his home to be wretched much longer. 

I need hardly say that every thing in my power was done for 
TooJcoolito, as also for poor Nukertou, who was very sick. 

From Tookoolito's I walked a little way on, and found two Es- 
quimaux, "Charley 11 and "Mine?;" making an igloo, or snow-house. 
In a short time more it was finished, and I was quite surprised at 
its beauty. With the exception of a single stain upon its spotless 
snow at the apex or centre of the dome, it was one of the most 
chaste pieces of architecture I ever saw. The exceptional stain 
was, I am sorry to say, something emanating from civilization. 
It was the juice of tobacco ! I sqized the long snow-knife from 
the bands of one of tbe Esquimaux, and scraped away that which 
so marred the beauty of the whole, while the inmates looked on, 
and then applauded me when it was done. 



i 



REMARKABLE ECHO. 177 



CHAPTER X. 

Remarkable Echo. — Visit of "Sampson." — Iunuit Mode of Washing the Face.— 
"Job's Comforters." — "Bridge of Sighs." — Mothers nursing their Children. — 
Serviceable Hoods. — Tails of Iunuit Dresses. — Cold in Winter endurable. — Ex- 
traordinary mild Weather. — Igloos in Ruins. — Kelp used for Food. — Christmas 
and New Year's Day. — Sick Nukertou. — Inattention to the Infirm and Dying. — 
Cruel Abandonment. — Innuit Superstitions. — Author's lonely Watch. — Death of 
Nnkerton. — The female Angeko. — Kooperarchu's Death. — Reflections. — Innuit 
Idea of a Future State. 

The month of December came in, as I have previously said, 
with a great calm of four days, and though the ice was then much 
broken up, making a transit to the shore difficult, yet I contrived 
to frequently land for exercise, and to see more of Innuit life. 

One day, while walking near a channel between two islands, I 
heard a very remarkable echo, of so striking a character that an 
Innuit boy and three dogs, near at hand, could hear my voice 
only through its reflected sound. The tide was out, leaving a 
rock bluff on the opposite side of the channel, whence the sound 
was reverberated. After giving utterance to my voice, in one 
second of time the echo came back to me, thus making the dis- 
tance across 550 feet, as sound travels 1100 feet per second. 

On December 8th, at noon, the thermometer was at zero, anci 
on the 9th, 15° below zero, or 47° below the freezing point. Yet, 
strangely to me, the cold was not felt so much as I should have 
supposed. The ice was solid around us, and our good ship quite 
laid up in winter quarters. Now and then we could hear some 
heavy and startling cracks, as if disruption was about to take 
place ; but nothing of any note occurred to disturb or to vary the 
usual monotonous life on board. Visits from the Esquimaux 
were made daily, and often we had several sleeping on the cabin 
floor and on sea-chests in impromptu beds made of sails, thick 
wearing apparel, etc., and a curious picture it was thus to see 
them. Frequently, accompanied by some of these visitors, I went 
to their village and to the islands around us, always being received 
by the natives in the most friendly manner. 

Once we had a stranger arrive who bad formerty lived near 

M 



17S 



ARCTIC BESEABCH EXPEDITION. 



"King's Cape," at a place called by Esquimaux Se-ko-se-lar* This 
man's name was Koo-choo-ar-choo, but known by us as " Sampson," 




THE GEOBGE HENET IN WINTEB QUARTERS. 

from his great size and strength. He was large and muscular, 
five feet six inches high, and weighing over 200 lbs. He was 
famous, too, as a great hunter, and had even captured ivhales by 
himself, iviih only the aid of a boy / When he visited us, his prcttj^ 
little daughter Puh-e-ne-yer, of about ten years old, accompanied 
him, and I was much amused with the nimble way in which she 
undid and then rebraided her hair. The use of a comb she did 
not know until I gave her one and showed her. As for the fa- 
ther, I found him very intelligent, and, through Tookoolito, who 
acted as my interpreter, he gave me much geographical informa- 
tion. 

Another of our visitors was Puto, the mother of a while child. 

* From various sketches drawn for me by Esquimaux, I concluded Se-ko-se-lar 
to be a place on the north side of Hudson's Strait, near a large bay as yet undiscov- 
ered by white men. This bay is somewhere between the longitudes 72° and 7~> c 
west, making far up, due north, and abounding in seals, walrus, white whales, and 
the MysHceti, or Greenland whales. 



PUTO AND THE WHITE CHILD. 179 

This woman had once been considered handsome, and even now 
showed some signs of her former beauty. She was about 35 years 
i )ld, and, though she had a hard time of it alone, supporting her- 
self and child, yet she was generally cheerful, smart, hind, and 
industrious. On one of my visits to Tookoolito's igloo, Puto 
with her child was there, and I then witnessed the operation — very 
rarely performed — of washing a child's face. This was done by 
ing it all over, much as a dog would do the hand that had 
just contained a fresh beefsteak. She did this twice while in my 
presence, and the true color of the child's face was then more 
clearly seen. 

Owing to some cause or other which I could only surmise, Puto 
suffered more from various privations than the other women. 
She was often a week with hardly any thing to eat, and, in con- 
sequence, her poor child was nearly starved. On the occasion I 
now refer to, after I had left the igloo and wandered about to other 
dwellings, I came across Charley and Ebicrbing, just arrived with 
a sledge-load of frozen krang, whale-meat, for the dogs. Puto at 
the moment also came to the spot, and immediately asked for 
some. They gave her about twenty -five pounds of it; and this 
she slung to her back, along with a pack of equal weight already 
there, besides the child ! 

Ye mothers of America I what say you to taking an infant, be- 
sides an additional pack of fifty pounds on your back, and start- 
ing off on a tramp of several miles — such was the distance to 
Puto's home — with the thermometer 40° to 45° below the freez- 
ing point? 

This, however, reminds me that at the same time I was obliged 
to be very careful, and especially of my nose. An instance had 
already occurred — a few days previous — of one of the ship's crew 
getting his nose frostbitten, without discovering the serious fact 
until pointed out to him, and thus just saving it in time. Ac- 
cordingly, I had to protect mine by as much covering as I could ; 
but, as I then said, deliver me from any more of " Job's comfort- 
ers" — boils — especially if there be any signs of them approaching 
that bridge below my eyes, which, from late experience, might in- 
deed be termed " the bridge of sighs I" 

On the visit just mentioned, I met a sister of Ebierbing, and 
also another woman, just taking up their quarters in the same 
place. In fact, it was a matter of mutual accommodation, for the 
purpose of creating more warmth within, and economizing light 



ISO ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION". 

and fuel. They arrived, bringing their worldly goods, while I 
was talking to Tookoolito, and at once the new-comers proceeded 
to place their lamp on the opposite side to that of the mistress of 
the igloo. They first filled it abundantly with seal-blubber, then 
putting in large wicks of moss, soon brought forth a long, even 
train of light and a glorious heat. The new-comers, it appeared, 
had managed to procure some of the precious seal-blubber, so 
much needed. 

At Ugarng's igloo, which I visited the same day, I there en- 
countered several women and children congregated together. I 
was welcomed at once by Nikujar, "Polly," the first or family 
wife of Ogarng, and by Punnie, his tliircl wife — No. 2 wife, Kun- 
niu, being absent, though her lamp was bright and in full trim. 
Little Kookooyer (the child of Blind George) was also there, and, 
with her fat cheeks, laughing eyes, and pleasant voice, greeted me 
as I entered. 

"Polly," in speaking to me, could only raise her voice to a 
whisper, for she was suffering from a pulmonic disease, and al- 
„rnost unable to utter a word without pain. 

While waiting at this igloo, in came Puto and her child — Puto 
finding it necessary to rearrange the pack at her back prior to a 
final start for the upper village. Her infant was given to little 
Kookooyer to hold ; but, as it was rather noisy, I thought to 
pacify the babe by taking it in my own hands, and, in doing so. 
tried to show them how civilized mothers carry and nurse their 
children. This, however, only produced a hearty laugh ; and I 
was made to understand that, in all the matters relating to the 
tending of infants — even in the very minutest, as there and then 
shown to me — the Innuit custom was the best. 

I could here mention one or two facts, but it will be unneces-' 
sary more than to say that mothers here at home will comprehend 
all my meaning when I tell them that an Innuit infant is carried 
naked in the mother's hood, yet in close contact with the parent's 
skin. Thus every childish necessity is generally anticipated in 
good time by the ever-sensitive, watchful mother. 

On the 18th of December we heard of an arrival at the upper 
village from Annaioa, the Esquimaux who, with his famity, it may 
be remembered, went away on the 30th of the previous August. 
This Esquimaux was a brother of some of the most enterprising 
Innuits in the North. He lived almost the life of a hermit — that 
is, he resided with his small family in a distant part, away from 



THE -BROADWAY BELLE." 131 

other people, bis abode being at an island called Oo-pung-ne-uring, 
in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, on the north side of Fro- 
1 liflb.er'a Bay. It was his son who had now arrived, with a view 
of doing a little trade, if he could. 

Many of the Esquimaux came to me, not onh/ as ordinary vis- 
itors and to see what they could get in way of presents, but also 
to do some trading. At the same time, several of the younger 
ones gladly received instruction from nryself in the civilized 
tongue. As regards trading with them, it was generally done for 
articles of use, reindeer-skin dresses especially being necessary for 
me for winter, and no one could be more cxjDert or more tasteful 
than the Innuit women in making them. 

On one of my visits to the upper village, a daughter-in-law of 
Artarkparu was just finishing ofi" her winter coat with a long tail, 
the universal fashion there among the ladies. It was prettily or- 
namented (?) with federal coin of the United States — old copper 
cents — eight in number, arranged in rows, and fixed as pendents 
to the tail. 

On another occasion, when "Kokerzhun came on board with her 
husband, she had on a beautiful luktoo (reindeer) fur dress, having 
a skirt standing out hoop fashion ! The variety of colors of the 
tuktoo was most prettily arranged, and so well did she appear, 
that it was said by some of us she would pass at home for a 
" Broadway belle." 

So excellent were the dresses made for me by these Innuit wom- 
en, that I did not hesitate paying tolerably "liberal" for them, par- 
ticularly as they were rather scarce. I obtained a native jacket 
for a knife, two small skins for another knife and some powder, 
and a good deerskin for more powder, buckshot, and caps. Many 
of the natives had guns, obtained from the whalers of Northum- 
berland Inlet either by barter or as returns for services rendered. 
I could not, at that time, get all I desired in the way of Innuit ap- 
parel, though it was useless to attempt traveling in any other cos- 
tume, as nothing but that could withstand the cold ; but from my 
first arrival I had been obtaining several articles, and thus I was 
now tolerably well supplied. 

About this time, and toward the end of December, I was much 
astonished at the changes in the temperature. On the li)th the 
thermometer, on this gloriously fair and calm morning, was 

20°, barometer 30.175. Cold indeed ; by thermometer, 52° be- 
low the freezing point. Yet so calm was the weather, that to my 



1S2 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

person it seemed no colder than at the commencement of the sea- 
son, when the thermometer indicated 32° above 0. But let a 
smart breeze spring up coming from the N.W., then how like hot 
iron it will burn ! The weather was such that, unless we soon had 
snow, the ice would freeze thick and solid throughout the regions. 
Snow upon the ice serves to keep it warm, the same as snow on 
the ground in the Northern States of America. 

In my journal at this date I find as follows : " I have just been 
out walking and running, exposing myself, my face and hands, to 
the cold air. A light breeze prevailing from N.W. I am confi- 
dent there is something yet to be discovered relative to air and 
cold. The human system is not such a liar as three excellent 
thermometers I have would make it, if I gave full credence to 
their story this morning. My three thermometers say 20° below 
zero, and yet far greater exposure now than at other times, with a 
higher register of temperature, leads to no unpleasant results. I 
am aware moisture in the air makes a great difference as affecting 
the human system; but a fact is a fact. The cold air from the 
same direction — equally charged with aqueous matter at different 
times — shows a difference of ten to twenty degrees in the ther- 
mometer ; and yet the air at the lowest temperature affects the 
human system less than the highest. 

"December 20th, 5 30 A.M., thermometer —5°, barometer 30. 
200. Wind very light, N.W. Yet there must be a storm prevailing 
not far from us, as a tremendous roar of waters and cracking of 
ice comes from the direction of Davis's Straits. The ice around 
the shore of this harbor is constantly ' singing,' indicating that a 
heavy sea is now affecting us even here. * * * 7 A.M., the 
wind went round to the N.E., when it commenced snowing; ther- 
mometer 4°, barometer 30.100. At 10 P.M. we had the thermom- 
eter 14° above zero, barometer 30.050, wind N.E., blowing a gale, 
the ice breaking up in Field Bay, and also in our harbor. 

"Friday, December 21st. Thermometer 21° above zero, barom- 
eter 30.012. "Wind light from east. The bay is nearly clear of 
ice. What little there is fastens up our harbor. The weather is 
too warm for the igloos ; they have commenced dripping. If the 
like continues, down will come snow-houses. 

"Saturday, December 22(7. The thermometer is actually +32i c : 
barometer 30.100. Wind N.E. During the night considerable 
rain fell. The natives are in sad plight. There has been not ex- 
actly a conflagration in the Esquimaux village, but disruption, and 



IGLOOS IN RUINS. 183 

a melting down. Nearly every igloo is in ruins, owing to the un- 
expected storm of rain. Some have fallen, others about to. The 
men Innuits are busily engaged in erecting outer walls, filling in 
snow between the old and the new. I visited nearly every hab- 
itation, and found the natives exclaiming ' jx-ong-e-loo I pe-ong-e- 
too !' — bad ! bad ! 'Karg-toon' — very hungry. 

"At Ebierbing and Tookoolito's there was great distress. Their 
igloo was nearly destroyed. In the night the whole of the dome 
had fallen in, covering their bed, furs, dresses, etc., in wet snow. 
Ebierbing was busy in making a canvas tent over the ruins, while 
Tookoolito cleared out the snow from beneath. He was wet 
Through, and had not a dry skin upon his back, having been out 
all the morning trying to save his igloo from the almost univer- 
sal ruins around him. 

" Dec. 22c?. Eaining hard throughout this day, with occasional 
sleet and snow. Tookoolito visited the ship, and upon her return 
I let her have an umbrella, whioh, though she well knew the use 
of it, was really a novelty to others of her people, who consid- 
ered it a ' walking tent? 

" The extraordinary mildness of the season has caused a most 
sad state of things among the natives. They can not obtain their 
accustomed food by sealing, as the ice and cold weather alone 
give them the opportunity. Hence in many of the igloos I have 
seen great distress, and in some I noticed kelp (seaweed) used for 
. 

" "Whenever I visited the natives, such small quantities of food 
its I could spare from my own slender but necessary stock were 
taken to them, and on one occasion I gave Tookoolito a handful 
of pressed ' cracklings' which I had brought with me from Cincin- 
nati. They were given me by a friend there for dog-food, and I 
can now record the fact that Cincinnati pressed ' cracklings' made 
as rich a soup as ever I had eaten." 

The preceding extracts from my diary about the weather, and 
its effects upon the condition of things around me, will show that 
almost the very existence of these children of the icy North de- 
pends upon the seasons being uniform with the time of year. The 
high temperature we had experienced, however, did not long con- 
tinue. A few days afterward, on the 30th of December, the ther- 
mometer was down to zero; and on the 5th of January it was 
-ixty degrees below freezing point! The bay and harbor had 
again been coated over with solid ice, and parties of Innuits were 



1S4 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

out in all directions seal-hunting, but with such slight success that 
several of them departed for other quarters, where they hoped 
seals would be more abundant. Among these were Ugarng and 
his family. They started for Cornelius Grinnell Bay, but, before 
leaving, a few cakes of hard bread were given them, that the party 
might have something to fall back upon in case of success not fol- 
lowing immediately. 

It was not long, however, before Ugarng returned very sick. 
He left in the morning, and arrived at the ship about 4 P.M.. 
thus making a rapid journey on his sledge of about forty miles. 
Two days afterward, baving received extra aid and medicine, he 
once more started, and, as will be presently related, when I made 
an excursion to where he had gone, I fouud him busily engaged 
sealing. 

Among the other incidents to be mentioned as occurring about 
this period of my narrative, I must not forget to say that Christ- 
mas and New Year's Day were celebrated by us in our winter 
quarters with all the honors it was in our power to show. A 
few of the natives were on board to dine on Christmas Day, and I 
took the opportunity to give Tookoolito a Bible that had been 
placed in my hands by the Young Men's Christian Union of Cin- 
cinnati, and which I thought could not be devoted to a better pur- 
pose. I inscribed upon it the following: 

" Presented to Tookoolito, Tuesday, December 2oth,1860." 

Her first act was to read the title, i: Holy Bible," then to try and 
read some of its pages, which she still longs to understand. 

The new year of 1861 was welcomed by me at its very earliest 
commencement, having been up throughout the night. The pre- 
vious evening I had been paying visits on shore among the na- 
tives, and at 1 A.M. of the first day of January I was engaged 
in writing, in the midst of the sleeping forms of Esquimaux made 
warm and happy for the night in our main cabin. Paulooyer 
(Blind George) and his' little girl, Kookooyer, were there, well 
wrapped up, and Kimmiloo, in my sleeping bag, was asleep on a 
sea-chest. Koojesse and his wife Tunukderlien were in my berth, 
and two other Esquimaux were on the cabin floor. Ebierbing 
and Tookoolito were on shore in their own igloo, and it was to 
them that, at half past 5 A.M., I made my first New Year's 
"call." Various other "calls" were made, all with a view to 
some beneficial result, and, if possible, to do the poor people good 



SICK NUK-ER-TOU. 135 

in their then wretched state, and throughout the day sundry man- 
ifestations among our own men were given, akin to those adopted 
at home. 

On this day, January 1st, 1861, we had the thermometer — 1°, 
barometer 29.20, and the weather calm, with light clouds. We 
did not, therefore, feel the cold as might have been expected, and 
thus our New Year's Day passed off most agreeably. 

I have now to relate an occurrence that was as startling to me 
in its terrible yet solemn character as any thing I had ever before 
known or heard of. 

I have mentioned that another Esquimaux woman, called Nuk- 
ertou, was found to be very sick, and I therefore determined to 
again call upon her, taking some medicine, and a little quince 
jelly that had been given me by loved ones at home. 

I left the ship, and, after crossing some very broken and dan- 
gerous ice, which formed a sort of unstable and disjointed cause- 
way, arrived at the village during the morning. I asked Tookoo- 
lito to accompany me, which she chccrfulty did, and together we 
went to the tupic of Nukcrtou. She had been left alone in her 
sickness, all nncared for, as was customary, I regret to say, with 
the Esquimaux when any of them were helplessly ill. 

The poor woman was very glad to see me, but she was so weak 
and suffered so much that she could hardly move. I gave her 
medicine, which soon relieved her, and for this I received many 
thanks ; but I thought her end near. I could see by her wasted 
form and utter prostration that she had not long to live. Per- 
haps, had she received such early attention from her own people 
as is shown among families in civilized life, she might have sur- 
vived ; but from no one did she get this, and only by chance did 
her illness reach my ears. 

I have before mentioned her kindly nature, ever ready to do 
any thing she could for all of us on board without looking for fee 
or reward, and, so long as she had strength, she was to be seen at 
some friendly task ; but her absence was not particularly noticed, 
owing to the fact that Innuits are of a character so thoroughly in- 
dependent that they come and go just as they please. 

On the present occasion, Nukertou was living in an igloo occu- 
pied by Shirrierarcku (Johnny Bull), with his wife Koh rzhun, and 
her little sister Kimmiloo. The latter came in while I was speak- 
ing to Nukertou, and when Tookoolito left, the girl showed much 
attention to her. 



186 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

The sick woman la}' on skins of the reindeer placed on the 
snow platform opposite the entrance of the igloo, and, though in 
the usual condition of Esquimaux when in bed, said she felt quite 
warm. The medicine, and perhaps the kindly words, had done 
her good. But some days afterward I found her snow bed had 
become unfit for sleeping upon. Some unusually high tempera- 
ture of the weather for that time of the year, added to the heat — 
though not much — of her own body, had melted the snow couch, 
and she had sunk in an awkward position. Accordingly, one 
da} r (December 21), assisted by her friends, I made her a fresh 
bed by procuring blocks of drifted snow, crushing them finely as 
flakes, and making the same into a soft, smooth basis, upon which 
was placed the usual layer of the small dry shrub, and on top 
of that some reindeer skins. This, then, was the new bed for 
poor sick Nukertou, and for a time she seemed more comforta- 
ble. But neither the attentions of Tookoolito or myself availed. 
Gradually she declined ; and, though we administered to her such 
food as was necessary (all the Innuit people, at this period, being 
near a state of starvation, owing to a very bad season for seal- 
hunting again), her death rapidly approached. 

On December 30th, I find the following in my journal concern- 
ing her : 

" Invited Tookoolito to go with me and make a call upon sick 
Nukertou. We found her as yesterday. I had a talk with her, 
Tookoolito acting as intrepreter. What a scene for my memory ! 
There sat Kokerzhun before her fire-lamp, drinking in even- 
word, as Tookoolito interpreted to sick Nukertou what I had re- 
quested to be said. Tookoolito went on talking to Nukertou all 
that I had taught her of God, Christ, heaven, the good, etc., and 
there she stood, weeping over the form of her whom we all love 
as a sister — noble Nukertou. 

"After this interesting interview Tookoolito and Kokerzhun 
proceeded to the vessel, while I went to the former's igloo, and 
obtained my spirits of camphor for the purpose of laving the tem- 
ples of Nukertou. Here I remained, chafing the hot, tattooed 
brow of this afflicted but resigned Esquimaux — here I remained 
alone with this dear one, whose spirit may soon be in the pres- 
ence of God and angels. Oh that she may go to that happy 
land where all is rejoicing, and the song is Glory to God in the 
highest !" 

The day but one afterward I paid my usual visit to Nukertou. 



A LIVING TOMB. 18" 

and found that Shimerarchu was building a new igloo for her. 
Upon inquiry, I found that it was to be Jier living tomb I I was 
thunder-struck. A living tomb ! Yes. And so, Tookoolito said, 
according to custom, it must be ; and so it was. 

On the 4th of January, 1861, Nukertou was removed to the 
new igloo. She was carried thither upon reindeer skins by four 
women, who took her in through an opening left for the purpose 
at the back, not by the usual entrance. Snow blocks were then 
procured, and the aperture well closed, while a woman stood by 
and gave instruction what to do. An ordinary entrance was then 
made, and, as soon as completed, I went into the igloo. 

Nukertou was calm, resigned, and even thankful for the change. 
Of course she knew that it was to be her tomb ; but she was a 
child of her people, and as she had now become a helpless burden 
to them, with only a few days more to live, it seemed to me that 
she took it as a matter of right and justice, and no one could ob- 
ject. Therefore she was thankful that her last moments were 
being so carefully seen to. 

A new igloo of stainless snow, a well-made bed of the same 
material, where she could breathe her last, would make her few 
remaining hours happy. True, she would be alone — for such 
was the custom of her people — but she did not fear it. She was 
content, and appeared cheerfully resigned. 

It may be asked by some, Why did not I try to prevent such an 
outrage upon the feelings of any Christian person ? If so, I reply 
that I did try to get her on board the ship, but I soon found that 
in no one thing are the native tribes more sensitive than interfer- 
ence with their superstitious rites and ceremonies, especially in 
relation to death. Hence it might have been most unwise, even 
if possible, to have taken Nukertou on board. Therefore I did 
my best for her in the igloo, where she would have been literally 
imbed alive* but for my request to attend upon her. 

On the 8th of January she died ; and as the incidents con- 
nected with her death were very striking, I will transcribe them 
from my journal as entered down at the time : 

'* Monday, January 7th. This evening, fearing that Nukertou 
was wholly neglected, I went on shore about five o'clock. Of 
course it was then quite dark, with the thermometer 57° below 
the freezing point, and it was necessary for me to have a lantern 
in hand, besides some of the natives to guide me across the ice. 
* Ilcrcaftcr I shall havo occasion to relate an actual occurrence of tliis kind. 



188 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

On arriving at the igloo, Ebierbing and the others remained out- 
side, while I, pushing aside the little snow door, drew n^self 
through the low, narrow-tunnel entrance, which was just of size 
sufficient to admit my squeezed-up bod}-, and neared the inner 
part. A strange and solemn stillness pervaded the place, only in- 
terrupted by the perceptible, but irregular and spasmodic breath- 
ings of the dying creature within. I raised myself up, looked to- 
ward her, and gently uttered her name. She answered not. A 
second call from me was alike unresponded to. I therefore went 
to her and felt her pulse. It still beat, but told me too surely 
that she was dying. Immediately I cried out for Ebierbing and 
Koodloo (the latter a male cousin of Nukertou) to come in. They 
did so reluctantly. I informed them that Nukertou was dying. 
The announcement seemed to be overwhelming in sadness. 
"Watching intently each breathing of this friend of all, for a while 
we were silent. At length it occurred to me that Tookoolito 
would wish to be informed of Nukertou's condition. I therefore 
indicated the same to her husband, who immediately ran with all 
haste to send her here. A few moments found Tookoolito' in the 
presence of the dying. No call from her familiar voice could 
arouse a recognition from the one who was now about to depart. 
Alas for us! Nukertou was surely on her way to the land of 
spirits. 

" Tookoolito, remaining here as long as was required, and find- 
ing the change going on with Nukertou was by slow degrees, re- 
turned to her igloo, leaving me and Koodloo with Nukertou. In 
one hour I left Koodloo alone in charge, and stepped over to 
Ebierbing's for a few moments. Upon my return to Nukertou's, 
what was my astonishment when I found the igloo sealed up — 
blocks of snow placed firmly in and around the entrance-way. It 
seemed to tell me that she was dead. I had but a short time be- 
fore learned it to be the usual custom among the Innuits, when 
one of their number is dying, for all to retire from the igloo or 
tupic, whichever it might be, and not return to it. But I thought. 
'After all, perhaps not dead !' I threw back block after block of 
unspotted snow, till at length I made my way into the main igloo. 

u Xul-er(ou ivas not dead! She breathed, and was much about 
the same as when I last saw her. I determined then to remain, 
doing what I could to smooth the pillow of the dying. The lamp 
was nearly out ; the cold was intense, the thermometer outside 
being 51° below the freezing point; and, though I had on the 



DEATH OF XUK-EU-TOU. IS') 

Esquimaux dress, it was with difficulty I could keep my blood 
from congealing. There I was, the lone, silent watcher of a dy- 
ing Esquimaux, encircled within snow walls that were soon to be- 
come her tomb. Thank God I was there ! It did my soul good 
to hold communion with high heaven at such a time. It did 
me good to be where angels, just from heaven, came to greet and 
bear away a soul precious to God. "What a scene ! Indeed, to 
me it was one that has become ineffaceably fixed on memory's 
tablet. 

"About twelve, midnight, I heard footsteps approaching. Soon 
the sound as if the entrance was being closed up again. I thought, 
Can it be that I am to be imprisoned here, doomed to have this 
my living tomb? I listened a while. I found it true that I was 
being shut up as though dead. Of course those who were doing 
this knew not I was there. At length I cried out ' Turbar ! tur- 
bar !' Stop ! stop ! At this, all was again silent as the grave for a 
moment. I then said, ' Ki-ete' — come in ; and in came the two 
who were performing the last sad act of respect to the dead. But 
what shall I say of their last act to the living? The two proved to 
be Koodloo and a woman called Sbo-ou-Ie-arng, or Suzki, as we 
named her. Here they remained half an hour with me, then de 
parted. I was again alone with the dying Esquimaux. Nearer 
and nearer drew her end. Coldness was creeping over her. In 
deed, I found the cold taking hold of me. The native lamp 
which serves for light and fire, had ceased from want of blubber 
or oil. There was only my lantern-lamp to give light, and the 
oil of this was kept fluid by the caloric of my encircling hands. 

"During the day my fur stockings had become damp from per- 
spiration, therefore my feet were nearly frozen. Every few min- 
utes I was necessitated to jump and thrash myself — to do any- 
thing I could to keep my limbs from frostbites. 

'• llow intently I watched each change in Nukertou ! One, 
two, three, four, five, six, seven did I slowly count in the inter- 
vals of her breathing, and these increasing to even double that 
number. At last I could count nineteen between her inspirations, 
but her respirations were short and prolonged — irregular. At 
length Nukertou ceased to live. I exclaimed, ' She's dead ! Re- 
ceive back»hcr spirit, I pray thee, God, for she is Thine.' 

"I placed the lamp before her face. She breathed not. And 
there I sat on the platform, of snow by her side, her disheveled 
locks matted and tangled with reindeer hair, falling in wilddisor- 



190 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



der over her tattooed brow. I called to her, ' ISTukertou ! Nuker- 
tou !' but no response came back. The silence o^ the dead alone 
remained. 




THE DYUiU I 



CK-EK-TOU. 



"I now left for another part of the island, to call her cousin 
Koodloo. He was asleep in an igloo, and, on awaking him, he ac- 
companied me back. But I could find no one willing to lend a 
helping hand ; no one would touch the dead. I therefore determ- 
ined to lay the corpse out myself. Koodloo would do nothing 
but hold the lamp, and I had to perform the whole. I put her on 
a snow bed, crossed her hands upon her breast, closed her lips, 
and placed lumps of the pure snows of heaven upon her eyelids, 
with a snow pillow under her head. This done, I then left for 
the ship, having first taken the precaution to seal up the igloo so 
as to prevent the dogs from eating up her remains. 

"It was three in the morning when Nukertou died, and as I 
left her, so did her body remain, unvisited, uncared-for, within 
that igloo tomb !" 

My journal continues : " It might as well be here stated what 
occurred in Nukertou's igloo on the arrival of my valuable and 
esteemed friend Tookoolito, when her husband informed her of 
the dying condition of Nukcrtou. To my mind the incident goes 
to show how strongly are fixed among any people customs, how- 
ever absurd they may appear to others. 



ESQUIMAUX SUPERSTITIONS. 101 

" Tookoolito, on arriving last evening, proceeded to examine 
Nukertou's condition — feeling her pulse, listening to her breath- 
ings, watching her every motion. Too true, indeed, did she find 
what I had said. Tookoolito gently spoke words that astonished 
me, because they came from one who is not only conversant with 
my vernacular, but with the belief and practices of civilization. 
She said Nukertou was dying, and that we must all retire at once ; 
that if we delayed till Nukertou's death, the skin dresses we had 
on would never do to be put on again. 

" This was spoken with an earnestness that wanted no guarantee 
of her firm belief in what she said. Under the circumstances, I 
had no hesitancy as to my course then and (here. I knew she had 
confidence in me ; that she knew I always treated her people as 
well as I could my own ; that she knew I never endeavored to 
cast a slur or make light of any of the customs of her country. 
Therefore I said, ' Tookoolito, listen to wong-a (me) a moment. 
On Christmas day I gave you a good book — the Bible. Tlini 
hook is the Word of God. It tells you and me — every body — to 
visit the sick, the afflicted, the widow, the helpless, the poor.' 

"Kindly I proceeded, to the best of my poor ability, to show 
her wherein it was wrong thus to leave the sick — the dying. Her 
astonishment at what I said seemed as great to her as was mine 
at her recorded remark. During this important conversation, al- 
lusion was made as to working on tuktoo furs during the season 
of catching walrus. It is a fact that, when the Innuits begin to 
catch walrus, no work is done on reindeer skins; therefore all 
winter clothing is made up before any attempts are made to get 
walrus. The reasons why will be stated some time hereafter. 

" In my arguments with Tookoolito I told her it was not to be 
wondered at that she and her people believed many unreasonable 
things, when there had been no one to teach them better — no one 
to tell them of the Bible. I told her that some people of America 
.and in England believed a great many ridiculous things, but that 
did not make them true ; told her that I only wished to do her 
good; that whenever I could kindly show where they — her peo- 
ple — were doing wrong, I should do so ; that if she or her people 
could prove to me her or their ways were all the best, then I 
would be one to do as Innuits did. After this interview under 
the snow-roof of the dying, I heard Tookoolito, in her igloo, earn- 
estly engaged in telling her wing-a all that I had told her. They 
both seemed thankful for what I had said."' 



192 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

In connection with the preceding account of Nukertou's death, 
and the Innuit customs referring to it, I may here mention an- 
other occurrence somewhat similar, which took place about the 
same time. 

There was a sick native, whom I visited on two or three occa- 
sions, named Kooperarchu, who suffered greatly from ulcers on the 
neck. His case was desperate, and no remedies we applied avail- 
ed him. As his end approached, the angeko took possession of 
him altogether, and when I once tried to see the patient, all the 
natives assured me it would be useless while the augeko was 
there. But I determined to make the trial, and, after some per- 
suasion, and as a great favor, was admitted by the dying man's 
family. 

This time the angeko was a woman, and when I entered, her 
position was at the farther side of the igloo, with her back to me, 
but seated, cross-legged, under a pile of skins. At her side was 
the poor man, Kooperarchu, kneeling, and in a state of complete 
nudity, though snow and ice were above, beneath, and around him. 

At first I was startled at this; but, remembering what great 
wonders have been and can be accomplished by a sick person's 
complete faith in his ph}' sician, I made no attempt at interference 
except motioning for one of the brothers to place some covering 
over the patient's shoulders. 

The angeko was constantly engaged in addressing some un- 
known spirit, doing it in as varied a way as could be well con- 
ceived. The whole family participated in the scene, placing 
themselves in position, responding, ejaculating, and doing what- 
ever the angeko required ; and all this with a solemnity that was 
particularly striking, so much so, indeed, that the exercises re- 
minded me, in some respects, of what is known as a Methodist 
"love-feast." 

"When the exercises were through, the angeko, turning round, 
appeared to notice me, and expressed surprise ; but I soon molli- 
fied her rising anger by a slight present, which made her and the 
family very friendly. 

Notwithstanding all the efforts made by this angeko, they 
availed nothing in arresting the rapid strides disease was making 
on this poor man's life. On the following day, myself being sick 
on board, I requested Tookoolito to see the patient, and take to 
him certain medicines I gave her. She did so then, and likewise 
on the next day, remaining half an hour with him. Soon after 



THE INNUIT HEAVEN. 193 

she bad returned to her igloo, "Jack," a brother of Kooperarchu, 
called and said the sick man was dying. Immediately Tookooli- 
to went back, and, feeling bis pulse, found it almost gone. Koo- 
perarchu felt himself dying, and said to her, as, in our language, 
she explained it to me, " I going to die — I can not help it — I wish 
to die. My mother and father in kood-k-par-mi-ung (the Innuit 
heaven) — I go to meet them — I must go — I can not stop !" Sbe 
asked bim, "Go now?" He replied, "Yes." This was the last 
word he spoke. Thus Kooperarcbu died. 

Kooperarchu was buried soon after his death. His friends and 
relatives wrapped him in two tuktoo skins and carried him awa}\ 
The frozen corpse was suspended across the shoulders of bis broth- 
er by a strap placed under the arms and across the breast, as one 
would carry a gun. Tookoolito headed the funeral train, and 
a married sister of the deceased, with a younger brother, and a 
couple of dogs, besides some of the natives, followed him to the 
grave. This grave was but a little distance from the village, and 
merely consisted of a recess made in the snow, with tbc same ma- 
terial piled over the dead body. 

* * * * * * * 

Three days after Kooperarchu's decease I was able to visit his 
family igloo. There I found his relations all sitting in a close 
group on the snow platform. They were bemoaning the loss of 
a brother and excellent seal-hunter. For three days from the death 
bis family bad thus to mourn, according to Innuit custom. At 
the end of that time they expected their lost brother would be in 
" kood-le-par-mi-ung," there forever to enjoy its pleasures, feast- 
ing on reindeer meat, and wandering from star to star. 

N 



191 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XI. 

A January Sledge Excursion to Cornelius Grinnell Bar. — Rough Traveling overland. 
— High Cliffs. — Descent of the Sledge on to the frozen Sea. — Camp on the Ice. — 
First Night in an Igloo. — Proceed on the Journey. — Dangerous Traveling. — 
Second Night on the Ice. — Detention. — Cold. — An icy Beard. — Hair-cutting. — 
A Storm. — Disruption of the Ice. — Fearful Peril. — Cessation of the Gale. — Con- 
tinue the Journey. — Ice on the Move in every Direction. — Deep Snow. — Treach- 
erous Footing. — Laborious Work — Arrive at Rogers's Island. — Great Thirst. — In- 
nuit Welcome. — A Cup of Water. — Hospitality. — Light, Warmth, and Food. — 
Night's Rest. — Disappearance of the Ice. — Remarkable Preservation. — Frostbites. 
— A serviceable pocket Mirror. — Bad Weather. — Whaleskin eaten as Food.— 
Attempted Return to the Ship. — Author's weak State. — Innuit Seal-hunting. — 
Starving Condition of the Party. 

Having a great desire to try and do something in the way of 
exploring, and particularly to accustom myself to actual life among 
the Innuits, I at length determined to venture on an excursion by 
sledge and dogs to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, whither Ugarng had 
already gone. Accordingly, after due preparation, myself and 
party were ready on the 10th of January, 1861, and away we 
went. 

The following account of the first day's journey is from my 
journal, as written every evening in an igloo — snow hut: 

" Thursday, January 10th, 1861. Thermometer 30° below zero, 
or 62° below freezing point ! My company consists of self, Ebier- 
bing, Tookoolito, and Koodloo, the cousin of the deceased Nuker- 
tou. By 4 A.M. I was up, and, with lantern in hand, went and 
called Ebierbing and his wife. They arose, and at once proceed- 
ed to gather up whatever things they would require during our 
stay. I then returned to the ship and packed up my own mate- 
rial. The outfit for this trip consisted, in provisions, of 1^ lb. pre- 
served boiled mutton in cans, 3 lbs. raw salt pork, 15 cakes (i lbs.) 
sea-bread, J lb. pepper, 2 lbs. ground burnt coffee, 1 quart molas- 
ses, 1 quart corn-meal, and 3 lbs. Cincinnati cracklings for soup. 
Then, for bedding, 1 double wool blanket, 1 sleeping-bag, 1 cloak 
and 1 shawl for bed-covering. For clothing, besides my native 
dress upon me, I took 1 extra under-shirt, 1 woolen shirt, 2 pairs 
extra stockings, 1 pair extra pants, 2 towels, and 2 pairs mittens. 



COMMENCE TO LIVE WITH INNUIT3. 195 

My books were Bowditch's Navigator, Bumfs Geography and 
Atlas of the Heavens, Gillespie's Land Surveying, Nautical Al- 
manac for 1861, a Bible, and ' Daily Food.' My instruments were, 
1 telescope, 1 self-registering thermometer, 1 pocket sextant, 2 mag- 
netic compasses, and 1 marine glass. I had also a rifle and am- 
munition, oil for lamp, and a hand-saw, besides paper, ink, pens, 
memorandum and journal book. 

"At 10 A.M. we were in readiness — Ebicrbing with the loaded 
sledge and team of dogs (five of his and five of my Greenland- 
ers) — alongside the George Henry. Tookoolito was gayly dressed 
in new tuktoo skirt, tuktoo pants, jacket, etc. Bidding adieu to 
our friends on board, we then started, Tookoolito leading the way 
— tracking for the dogs — for about one mile to the shore, in 
a northeasterly direction. Thence our course was that which 
Ugarng had evidently taken the day before. Over hill and moun- 
tain, through vale and valley, away we went.* Sometimes, when 
on a descent, our speed was rapid. Now and then we all got on 
the sledge for a ride. My spirits were high, for this was my first 
sledge - traveling trip. Ebierbing managed the dogs admirably. 
Indeed, I should consider him a capital dog - driver. I think I 
never perspired so profusely as I have this day. Some of the 
events during our journey have been most amusing. Once we 
were descending a steep incline, all of the company holding on 
to the sledge, so as to prevent its too great speed downward, 
when, one of my feet breaking through the treacherous snow- 
crust, headlong I went, and, like a hoop, trundled to the bottom 
of the hill. Tookoolito hastened to my relief, and, seeing a frost- 
bite on my face, she instantly applied her warm hand, the Innuit 
way, till all was right again. Another steep incline caused the 
sledge to descend so rapidly that at length it went over three or 
four of the dogs, who were unable to keep ahead of it, though 
running at great speed. 

"By 3 P.M. we ncared the frozen waters of the ocean, after 
passing over some very abrupt and rocky ground. On the mar- 
gin of the sea the cliffs were almost perpendicular, and it was nec- 
essary to lower the sledge down to the ice below. Accordingly, 
the dogs were detached, and while Tookoolito, whip in hand, held 
on by their traces, which were from twenty to thirty feet long, 

* For route of this sledge-trip, see track on Clinrt. From Rescue Hnrbor, Iat. 
X., long. CI- 11' \Y.. over land to Tuk-c-lik-c-ta Hay ; thence on the sen 
ice to Rogers's Island, lat. C3° 12' N., long. 01° 32' W. 



196 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

we lowered the sledge. The tide, however, was out, and it caused 
some difficulty iu getting on to the main ice. At length all was 
safely accomplished, and once more we started on our wa3 r , Too- 
koolito again leading. Then we proceeded for about five miles, 
when we came to an igloo out on the ice, which had evidently 
been erected and occupied the night before by Ugarng and his 
party. Here we should have stopped ; but, as the igloo was too 
small for us, we went on another mile, and then, finding good ma- 
terial for building a snow house, we encamped at 5 P.M." 

Ebierbing and Koodloo at once commenced sawing out snow- 
blocks, while I carried them to a suitable spot for erecting the 
igloo, which took us one hour to make. And a right good one it 
was, as I soon found. The door sealed up, and the cheerful lamp 
in full blaze, with a hot supper preparing, made me feel remark- 
ably comfortable, though in a house of snow, built so speedily 
upon the frozen surface of the treacherous ocean. I will here 
give this matter more in detail. 

Soon as the igloo was completed, Tookoolito entered and com- 
menced placing the stone lamp in its proper position. It was 
then trimmed, and soon a kettle of snow was over it making 
water for coffee and soup. She then proceeded to place several 
pieces of board we had brought with us on the snow platform 
where our beds were to be made. Upon these pieces was spread 
the canvas containing some of that small dry shrub I have al- 
ready alluded to. Over this went the tuktoo skins, and thus our 
sleeping accommodations were complete. 

I should mention that every article on the sledge is passed in 
through an opening at the back of the igloo, for the purpose of 
convenience. TThen all is thus within, then this opening is closed, 
and a proper entrance made on the side opposite the beds. The 
dogs are left outside. 

The drying of whatever has been worn during the da}', or 
whatever has become wet with perspiration, falls to the lot of the 
" igloo wife." She places the things on the in-ne-tin (a net over 
the fire-lamp), and through the night attends to the turning of 
them, as occasion requires. Her other duties consist in the re- 
pairing of such clothing as may be needed. Nothing is allowed 
to go one day without repair. Every thing, where care is re- 
quired, even to pipes and tobacco, is placed in the igloo wife's 
hands — in this case, Tookoolito's. These matters I particularly 
noticed on the occasion of my first night spent in an arctic igloo. 



FIRST NIGHT IN AN IGLOO. 197 

Presently our evening meal was ready. It consisted of Cin- 
cinnati crackling soup, a small piece of raw salt pork for each of 
us, half a biscuit, and coffee. Tookoolito proved herself an ex- 
cellent cook ; and I soou felt convinced that no party should think 
of traveling in these regions without an Innuit man and his wife, 
for the latter, above every thing, is the " all in all," or at least the 
•' better half." 

After supper, myself and the two male Esquimaux had each a 
pipe, and then turned in, my position being between the hot- 
blooded Innuits Ebierbing and Koodloo. 

I slept as well as I would ever wish, and on the following morn- 
ing, about nine o'clock, after breakfast and repacking the sledge, 
we again started. Our proper course was due north, but, owing 
to hummocky ice, we could not follow it. Iu truth, sometimes 
we were obliged to make a retrograde movement to get out of 
"a fix" that we were occasionally in among icebergs and hum- 
mocks. Owing to this, we made but five miles direct toward our 
destination during the day. 

It had been expected that we could reach Cornelius Grinnell 
Bay in one day from the vessel, but too many obstacles existed 
to allow it, and thus a second night came upon us while still 
upon the frozen sea. A storm was also gathering, and its dark- 
ness, with the howling wind, which had changed from off the land 
to right upon it, was foreboding. We were likewise much wea- 
ried with the day's labors, and it was some time after we stopped 
before a suitable place was found and our second igloo erected. 
At length, though long after dark, we were comfortably located, 
enjoying a hot supper beneath the snowy dome, the foundation 
of which rested on the frozen bosom of the mighty deep. But 
not too soon were we under shelter. The storm had burst in all 
its fury, and we could hear the wind roaring outside as we warm- 
ed ourselves within. 

All night long the gale continued, and the next morning — the 
third of our journey — it was found impossible to go on. It was 
blowing a strong gale, and continued so all day, with snow in im- 
penetrable thickness. "We were therefore obliged to keep inside 
our shelter, wrapped in furs. 

While thus detained, I took the opportunity to have my hair 
cut by Tookoolito. It had grown to a great length, even to my 
shoulders, and I now found it very inconvenient. Jly beard, 
whiskers, and mustache were also shorn nearly close to my face. 



198 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



In musquito time they were serviceable, but now they had become 
quite an evil, owing to the masses of ice that clung to them. In- 
deed, on the previous night I had to lose a portion of my whis- 
kers. They had become so ice-locked that I could not well get 
my reindeer jacket off over my head, therefore I used my knife, 
and cut longer attachments to them. 

I may here mention that, after this, when we vacated the snow- 
house, our dogs rushed in to devour whatever they could find, 
digestible or not digestible, and my locks were a portion of what 
they seized. In went my discarded hair to fill up their empty 
stomachs ! A few days later, I saw the very same hirsute mate- 
rial, just as clipped from my head, lining a step leading to another 
igloo, having passed through the labyrinthian way from a dog's 
mouth onward. 

About 4 P.M. Ebierbing ventured outside to see how matters 
looked, but he soon returned with the astounding news that the 
ice was breaking, and water had appeared not more than ten rods 
south of us! I looked, and, to my dismay, found that a crack or 




STOKM-BOUND — ENCA.Mr.MUM "N Til 



i'6 STRAITS, JAKTJAEY llTIl AKP I'JTH, 1661. 



opening extended east and west to the land, distant about three 
miles ! The gale had evidently set the sea in heavy motion some- 



STORM-BOUND.— PERILOUS SITUATION ON TnE ICE. 199 

where, and its convulsive throbs were now at work underneath 
the ice close to and around us. It still blew very hard, but as yet 
the wind was easterly, and so far good, because, if a nearer disrup- 
tion took place, we should be forced toward the land, but if it 
changed to north or northwest, away to sea we must go and 
perish ! 

Seriously alarmed, we consulted as to what was best to do — 
whether at once to hasten shoreward, or remain in the igloo and 
stand the chance. On shore, nothing but rugged precipices and 
steep mountains presented themselves ; on the ice, we were in 
danger of our foundation giving way — that is, of being broken up, 
or else driven to sea. At length we decided to remain while the 
wind lasted in its present quarter, and, to guard as much as possi- 
ble from any sudden movement taking us unawares, I kept with- 
in sight my delicately -poised needle, so that the slightest shifting 
of the ice on which we were encamped might be known. 

In the evening the gale abated, and by 10 P.M. it was calm, 
but the heavy sea kept the ice creaking, screaming, and t/i tender- 
ing, as it actually danced to and fro ! It was to me a new but 
fearful sight. "When I retired to bed I laid down with strange 
thoughts in my mind, but with a conviction that the same protect- 
ing hand would watch over me there as elsewhere. 

The night passed away without alarm, and in the morning 
Koodloo made an opening with a snow-knife through the dome 
of the igloo for peering out at the weather. He reported all clear 
and safe, and, after a hot breakfast, we packed and started, though 
under great difficulty and hazard. 

The ice had given way, and was on the move in every direc- 
tion. The snow was also very deep — sometimes above our knees 
— and moreover very treacherous. We could hardly get along ; 
and the poor dogs, which had been near starving since we had 
left the ship (Esquimaux dogs endure starvation, and yet work, 
amazingly), had to be assisted by us in pushing and hauling the 
sledge, while constant precaution was needed against falling 
through some snow-covered ice-crack. Every now and then we 
came to openings made by the gale and heaving sea. Some of 
these were so wide that our sledge could hardly bridge them, and 
a detour would have to be made for a better spot. At other places 
we had to overcome obstructions caused by high rugged ice that 
had been thrown up when masses had been crushed together by 
the tremendous power of the late storm. 



200 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

To guard against and extricate ourselves from these dangers, 
yet find a track amid the hummocks around, each of us by turns 
took the lead, and in this manner we proceeded on our way ; but 
it was evident we had hardly strength enough to persevere in 
reaching our destination that night. By 2 P.M. we were so ex- 
hausted that I deemed it best to make a halt, and use a little more 
of the slender stock of provisions I had with me, and which, ow- 
ing to our being so much longer on the way than expected, had 
become very low. Each of us, therefore, had a slice of raw salt 
pork and a quarter of a biscuit. This, however trifling, gave re- 
newed strength, and again we pushed forward, hauling, scram- 
bling, tumbling, and struggling almost for our lives. 

It was dark ere we got near the locality where our next en- 
campment was to be made, and where, in fact, we intended to re- 
main a while for the purpose of hunting and sealing, and myself 
exploring. 

At length we caught sight of an igloo which afterward proved 
to be Ugarng^, and, as soon as we saw it, fresh efforts were made 
to get nearer, but we found our passage more and more obstruct- 
ed by the broken, upturned ice. Often the sledge was carried on- 
ward by making it leap over these impediments, spmetimes from 
one point of ice to another, and at others down and up among the 
broken pieces. Finally we succeeded in reaching the shore ice, 
which we found all safe and sound, and in a short time more we 
were alongside of Ugarng's igloo, encamped on the southwest side 
of Eogers's Island, overlooking Cornelius Grinned Bay and the 
mountains surrounding it. 

Immediately I ran into Ugarng's igloo, and obtained some wa- 
ter to drink, for I must mention that all day long we had been 
famishing on account of thirst. The material to make water had 
been abundant around us — beneath our feet, here, there, and ev- 
ery where — but not a drop could be obtained, owing to our fire- 
lamp and equipments not being in use. Thus it was most thank- 
fully I received the warm-hearted welcome given mc by Nikujar, 
family wife No. 1 of Ugarng, as she handed a cup of refreshing 
cold water. Then I remembered how, on one occasion at the ship, 
this same woman, with her infant, came and asked me for water, 
which I gladly gave to her, with something else. Now she gave 
it to me. 

I should mention that, in winter, water is most precious to the 
natives. It is made only by melting snow or ice over the ikku- 



STARTLING SCENE.— GRATEFUL TO HEAVEN. 201 

mer (Qre-lamp), which is an expensive heat and light when oil 
and blubber become scarce ; and in this case our materials for 
fuel were all expended. 

While our own igloo was being erected, Ugarng and his second 
wife arrived from sealing, and, to the joy of all, brought with him 
a line seal. LTe generously supplied us with what we wanted, and 
thus an excellent supper was added to cheerful light and genial 
warmth from the now well-fed lamp. 

My fourth night in an igloo, on this journey, was spent more 
comfortably than the previous two had been, and on the follow- 
ing morning I rose greatly refreshed and strengthened. As I 
looked upon the expanse over which we had passed, I was start- 
led to find the ice all gone out to sea. This was confirmed by a 
view shortly afterward obtained from the top of a mountain be- 
hind our igloos, and I felt truly grateful to Heaven for having 
so preserved us. 

During the day I took a walk on shore, and the two Esqui- 
maux went sealing. They returned at night with a fine prize, 
which made us an excellent feast ; and, as my own stock of pro- 
visions was exhausted, except a trifle I reserved in case of sick- 
ness, this supply was most timely. 

On the following day, January loth, Ebierbing and Koodloo 
departed, with the sledge and dogs, on a hunting excursion, and 
I went away to examine the locality around. During my walk 
over the hills I came across numerous tracks of rabbits, and I 
also saw in the distance several prominent headlands that were 
familiar to me from noticing them when we first arrived here in 
the ship. 

While rambling about, I fortunately preserved myself from a 
severe frostbite in the face by taking the precaution of carrying 
a small pocket mirror which belonged to Tookoolito. I had asked 
the loan of it, knowing how necessary it was, when one is alone 
in those regions, to have a detector of frostbites ; and I found the 
use of a mirror in such a case ecprivalent to the companionship 
of another person. 

That night I was alone with Tookoolito and Punnie; the latter 
Ugarng's third wife, she having come to our igloo to keep com- 
pany with us until the husbands returned. It was very cold — 
the thermometer down to 57° below freezing point. Now my 
usual sleeping-place was between Ebierbing and Koodloo; but 
they being absent, I had to lay on the general bed, wrapped in 



202 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

my furs and blankets. During the early part of the night my 
feet were almost frozen. I tried all I could to keep them warm, 
but in vain. At last a smooth low voice reached my ear: 

" Are you cold, Mr. Hall ?" 

I answered, " My feet are almost frozen. I can not get them 
comfortable." 

Quick as thought, Tookoolito, who was distant from me just 
the space occupied by little Puunie (that is, Punnie slept in the 
middle), got down to the foot of her bed ; thence she made pas- 
sage for her hands directly across to my feet, seizing them and 
drawing them aslant to her side. My modesty, however, was 
quieted when she exclaimed, 

"Your feet are like ice, and must be warmed Lmuit fashion !" 

Tookoolito then resumed her place beneath her tuktoo furs, in- 
termingling her hot feet with the ice-cold ones of mine. Soon the 
same musical voice said, 

"Do your feet feel better?" 

I responded, " They do, and many thanks to you." 

She then said, " Well, keep them where they are. Good-night 
again, sir." 

My feet now were not only glowing warm, but hot through the 
remainder of the night. When I awoke in the morning, as near 
as I could guess, there were no less than three pairs of warm feet 
all woven and interwoven, so that some difficulty was experienced 
to tell which were my own. 

Ebierbing and Koodloo did not return until the next evening, 
bringing with them some black skin and krang— all the success 
attending them — which was obtained from a cache made the pre- 
vious fall by the natives when our ship was in the bay. The 
black skin was compelled to be our food, as nothing better could 
be had; and at supper I ate heartily of the rato frozen whale hide. 

The following noon a very heavy snow-storm came on, and con- 
tinued throughout the next and two following days, confining us 
almost entirely to the igloo, myself obliged to live on black skin, 
krang, and seal. 

On Sunday, the 20th of January, ten days after leaving the 
ship, we found ourselves in a sad state from actual want of 
food. The weather continued so bad that it was impossible to 
procure any by hunting, and all we had hitherto obtained was 
now consumed, except a very small portion held in reserve. I 
had intended sending Koodloo back to the ship for supplies, but 



STARVATION.— SERIOUS TIMES. 203 

waited for more suitable weather. This morning, however, it was 
absolutely necessary an attempt should be made, and as Koodloo 
refused to go alone, I decided upon proceeding with him. 

We expected to be obliged to make one night's encampment 
on the sea ice, now again, so far as we knew from that around us. 
compact, and we hoped to reach the ship on the following day. 
My only preparation was a sleeping bag and shawl, with a carpet 
sack of sundries, and half a pound of baked mutton, which I had 
carefully preserved to the present moment. 

At 8 A.M. we were in readiness, with a sledge and team of 12 
dogs, most of them nearly starved. Bidding adieu to Ebierbiug 
and Tookoolito, Koodloo and I started on our journey. 

At first, much hummocky ice impeded the way, but this we got 
through, and I anticipated a speedy trip. I was, however, disap- 
pointed. Soon, deep snow appeared ; and though we struggled 
for some miles due south, it was at length evident that to go on 
like that would be impossible. Occasionally the sledge and dogs 
contrived to get forward pretty well, but often they were so buried 
as to be almost out of sight. Koodloo seemed to think of giving 
it up, and I was so weak as to be hardly capable of dragging my- 
self along. While in this dilemma as to what we should do — go 
on, or return to the igloo — I perceived Ebierbing and Ugarng on 
their way toward us. 

They had noticed my difficulty, and Ebierbing now came on 
snow-shoes to offer his services in going to the ship in my stead. 
I accepted the proposal, and he, with Koodloo, went forward, 
Ugarng going in another direction, seeking for seal-holes, while I, 
slowly and with difficulty, owing to my weakness, returned to the 
igloo. I was a long time getting back, and when I arrived ther 
was obliged to throw myself on the snow platform quite exhausted. 

Toward evening, the weather then being fine, I walked on to a 
hill that overlooked the bay, and with my glass saw Ebierbing 
and Koodloo slowly wending their way along near where our 
second igloo had been erected, the former leading. That night 
and the following day I was hardly able to move. My weak 
state, owing to want of food — all my daily fare being a small piece 
of black or whale skin — had become very serious. 

In the evening I went to Ugarng's. He had just returned from 
scaling, having been out two days and one night over a seal-hole. 
All the reward he had, however, for his patient exertions was the 
seal coming up and giving a puff; then away it went, leaving 



e 



jnl ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Ugarng a disappointed Iimuit. But he bore bis disappointment 
very philosophically. lie said, in bis native tongue, " Away I go 
to-morrow morning again !" 

The next morning, which was very fine, Ugarng and Jack went 
out sealing again, while I visited several portions of the island. 
The following day Ugarng returned once more unsuccessful, 
though he had remained all night over the seal-bole. This was 
very bad for the whole of us. We could not now have even a 
fire-light until another seal was captured ; and when I called at 
Ugarng's, I found they were in the same condition. Nikujar 
(Polly) was alone, except her infant and Kookooyer, their daugh- 
ter by George. They were without light. Her child was rest- 
less, and she said the cause was hunger. " Me got no milk— meat 
all gone — blubber too — nothing to eat — no more light — no heat 
— must wait till get seal." 

While I waited, the second wife came in and said Ugarng was 
still watching over a seal-hole. Jack soon afterward returned 
without success. Sad — very sad ! My own state was bad enough, 
and I felt it severely ; but I could not bear to witness the wants 
of the poor people around me, having no power to relieve them, 
unless Ebierbing should soon come back with some provisions 
from the ship. All that I had to eat was my piece of black skin, 
and this I relished. Indeed, I could have eaten any thing that 
would have gone toward keeping up the caloric within me, and 
make bone and flesh. 

One night I asked Tookoolito if I might try the taste of some 
blackened scraps that bung up. I knew that she had reserved 
these for the dogs, but nevertheless I had an uncontrollable long- 
ing for them. I was very hungry. Tookoolito replied that she 
could not think of my eating them — the idea made her almost 
sick ; therefore I did not urge the matter more ; but soon after- 
ward I saw they were gone, Punnie (Ugarng's third wife) having 
taken them, and passed the whole into her own stomach ! 

Ugarng came in late again unsuccessful, and Tookoolito gave 
him a cup of tea, such as it was, for, owing to the absence of prop- 
er light and fuel, it could not be well made. Directly he bad it, 
off he went once more to try for seal. 

The next morning Ebierbing had not returned, and we were 
all at our wits' end to find something to eat. At length Tookoo- 
lito made out to cut off some of the white from a piece of black 
skin. From it she "tried" out sufficient oil to use for beating 



Till', lit K)l) SIIUNA.MITK. 



205 



some snow-water, which, when warmed, was thickened with In- 
dian meal, a few hamlfuls having been found remaining of the 
small quantity I had brought with me. The quantity of meal 
did not weigh above two ounces, yet it seemed to " loom up" as it 
was incorporated in the tepid water, and the incident strongly re- 
minded me of the good woman and Elijah of Bible history. Too- 
koolito, with whom I shared the meal, thought the "pudding" 
excellent, and so did I. Indeed, I shall not readily forget that 
breakfast, even — as I wrote at the time — " if I live to enjoy a 
thousand more dainty ones in my native home." 




UkAD AND A.MLH18 OF Tilt: AKCTIO REINDEEU. 



206 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Writing under Difficulties. — No Fire or Lamp. — Only two Inches of Black Skin for 
Food. — Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs.— Relief ohtained. — Ebierbing's Return. — 
A Seal captured. — Supplies from the Ship. — Grand Feast of raw Meat. — Hunger 
needs no Sauce. — Great Consumption of Food at a time. — Old Ookijoxy Ninoo's 
Dream. — An Innuit Mark of a Seal-hole. — Tobacco-juice useful. — Watching for 
the Seal. — Innuit Endurance of Cold. — Eating frozen Seal's Entrails. — Mode of 
cooking and partaking of Innuit Food. — Severe Cold. — The Angeko again. — 
Burning the Fingers with cold Brass. — First Reindeer seen. — More Innuit Arri- 
vals. — Improvidence of the Natives. — Generous Disposition. — Live to-day and 
Want to-morrow. — Author Visits Kowtukjua — Clark's Harbor — and Ookoolear — 
Allen's Island. — Return to the Igloo Village. — Departure for the Ship. — Too- 
koolito's Sadness. — Quick Journey. — Plaintive Look of a Seal.— Arrive at the 
George Henry. 

At this time, though I kept in general good health and spirits, 
I was fast losing flesh. But almost worse than want of food was 
the want of light and fuel. On several occasions, the only way I 
had to keep myself from freezing was by sitting in bed with plenty 
of tuktoo furs around me. The writing of my journal was done 
with the thermometer +15° to less than 0, while outside it was 
from —25° to —52°. During the day I several times went up 
the hill to look for Ebierbing's reappearance from the vessel, but 
no signs of him met my eye, and the night of January 2-ith (four- 
teen days from the ship) saw us with our last ration of food, viz., 
a piece of "black skin" LJ inch wide, 2 inches long, and £ of an 
inch thick. It was under these very " agreeable" circumstances I 
went to sleep, hoping to dream of better things, even if I could 
not partake of them. " Better things" fortunately did arrive, and 
in a way that I could partake of them. 

At midnight I heard footsteps within the passage-way to our 
igloo. Intuitively I knew it was Jack with ooksook — seal-blub- 
ber. I sprang out of bed and drew back the snow-block door. 
There was Jack, his spear covered with pierced seal-blubber 
hanging in strips like string-dried apples. I had allowed my 
poor starving dog " Merok" to slccj) within the igloo that night, 
and, directly I had opened the door, on his scenting the luscious 
fat, quicker than thought he gave one leap — a desperate one, as 
if the strength of a dozen well-fed animals were in him. In an 



RELIEF OBTAINED. 207 

instant I grappled with the dog, and made great efforts to save 
the precious material; but, though I actually thrust my bands 
into his mouth, and though Tookoolito and Punnie also battled 
with him, Merok conquered, and instantly devoured that portion 
he had seized. 

This misfortune, however, was not single. Before Jack could 
get his well-loaded spear and himself into the igloo, all the other 
dogs about the place were around him, fighting for a share of 
what was left. They succeeded in obtaining nearly all before we 
could drive them away, and thus the good portion intended for 
us from what Jack had procured was lost to us, but not to the 
dogs ! Jack, who was of Ugarng's party, and had brought this as 
a present, returned to his own igloo, and left us disconsolate to 
ours. "Better things," therefore, in that case, were not for us; 
but. nevertheless, as I have said above, they did arrive, and that 
speedily. 

Not before 9 A.M. did I again leave my tuktoo bed and go out- 
side the igloo to look around. Naturally and longingly my first 
glance was in the direction whence I expected Ebierbing. In a 
moment my eyes caught something black upon the almost uni- 
versal whiteness. I looked again and again. It moved, and im- 
mediately my heart leaped with joy as my tongue gave utterance 
in loud tones to Tookoolito within, " Ebierbing ! Ebierbing ! He 
is coming! he is coming!" The response was, "That is good;" 
and I — merely adding, " I go to meet him" — bounded away as 
fast as my enfeebled body would allow. 

I soon found, however, that if progress was to be made toward 
him, I must do it by slow degrees and patient steps. " Black 
skin," in homoeopathic quantities, daily taken for food, had but 
kept my stomach in sufficient action to support life. All the 
strength I now had was mostly from the beefsteaks of dear Ohio, 
eaten and moulded into human fat, muscle, and bones before leav- 
ing my native home. But this remaining strength was very, very 
small, and thus my efforts to get on soon nearly exhausted me. 

After a great struggle through the deep snow, I at last got 
within hailing distance, and sang out to know if it was really 
Ebierbing, as the party I had seen was no longer advancing. No 
reply came to my question, and I immediately hastened my fee- 
ble steps to see the cause. A moment or two more brought me 
near enough to be convinced. It was Ebierbing, with the sledge 
and dogs, but so exhausted with his labors that he had been 



i;OS ARCTIC RESEAECH EXPEDITION. 

obliged to throw himself down, completely overpowered. Soon I 
was by his side grasping his hand, and, with a grateful heart, 
thanking him for the really good deed he had performed in thus 
coming alone with the relief I saw before me. 

In a short time the loaded sledge was examined, and I found a 
bos of sundries sent from the ship, as also a very fine seal, caught 
thai morning by Ebierbing himself. There was likewise a quantity 
of whale - meat, brought from Kescue ITarbor for the use of our 
dogs. 

Directly Ebierbing could renew his journey, we started togeth- 
er ; but the dogs and both of us were hardly able to get the sledge 
along. Finally we reached the shore ice, and here we were so 
exhausted that not one inch farther could we drag the loaded 
sledge. Kunniu, wife No. 2 of Ugarng, seeing our condition, hast- 
ened to give assistance, and with her strong arms and our small 
help, the sledge was soon placed high on the shore by the side of 
the igloos. 

Ebierbiug's first and most earnest call was for " water." This 
was supplied to him, and then we commenced storing our new 
supplies. The seal was taken into the igloo — the usual place for 
a captured seal — and the sledge, with its contents, was j:>roperly 
attended to. Of course the news of Ebierbing's arrival with a 
seal " spread like wildfire," and in our quiet little village, consist- 
ing of three igloos, all the inhabitants with exhausted stomachs- — 
including my own — were prepared for wide distention. 

The seal weighed, I should say, about 200 lbs., and was with 
young. According to Innuit custom, an immediate invitation 
was given by the successful hunter's family for every one to at- 
tend a " seal feast." This was speedily done, and our igloo was 
soon crowded. My station was on the dais, or bed-place, behind 
several Innuit women, but so that I could see over them and 
watch what was going on. 

The first thing done was to consecrate the seal, the ceremony 
being to sprinkle water over it, when the stalwart host and his as- 
sistant proceeded to separate the " blanket" — that is, the blubber, 
with skin — from the solid meat and skeleton of the seal. The 
body was then opened and the blood scooped out. This blood is 
considered very precious, and forms an important item of the food 
largely consumed by Esquimaux. Next came the liver, which 
was cut into pieces and distributed all around, myself getting and 
eating a share. Of course it ivas eaten raw — for this was a raw- 



GREAT SEAL-FEAST. ' 209 

meat feast — its eating being accompanied by taking into the 
mouth at the same time a small portion of delicate white blubber, 
which answered the same as butter with bread. Then followed 
distributing the ribs of the seal for social picking. I joined in all 
this, doing as they did, and becoming quite an Innuit save in the 
quantity eaten. This I might challenge any white man to do. No 
human stomach but an Innuit's could possibly hold what I saw 
these men and women devour. 

Directly the " feast" was ended all the company dispersed. Too- 
koolito then sent around bountiful gifts of seal -blubber for fire- 
lamps; also some seal meat and blood. This is the usual custom 
among the Innuits, and, undoubtedly, is a virtue to be commend- 
ed. They share each other's successes, and bear each other's 
wants. Generally, if it is found that one is short of provisions, it 
may be known that all are. "When one has a supply, all have. 

A fter the feast and the gifts were over, we had leisure to attend 
to ourselves, and in what "great good humor" we were soon to 
be found ! Our lamps were all aglow and our hunger sated. I 

then took up the letter sent me by Captain B , which added 

to my pleasure in its perusal. 

It appeared, by what I read, that every one on board the ship, 
as also the natives in the two villages, had given us up for lost 
during the gale we encountered when encamped on the ice. 
From the long absence of all information about us, and the fact 
that the same gale had broken up the ice in Field Bay, it was 
concluded that we had been driven out to sea, and probably had 
perished. Koodloo's wffe never expected to see him again; and 
old Ookijoxy Ninoo, the grandmother of Ebicrbing, said she dreamt 
about him in such a way that his death was almost assured to her. 

My information from the ship told me that the natives in both 
villages were still badly off, not having caught one seal since our 
departure. 

I must now mention, briefly, how Ebierbing obtained the fine 
seal he brought with him. On his way to the ship he discovered 
a seal-hole, but, being hurried for time, he merely erected a small 
pile of snow near at hand, and squirted tobacco-juice as a mark upon 
it. On his return, he readily found the hole by this mark, and, 
though he felt the necessity of hastening on to our relief, and had 
received instructions from the captain to hurry forward, yet he 
determined to try for the prize by spending the night in attempt- 
ing to gain it. Accordingly, binding my shawl and various furs 





210 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

around his feet and legs, be took his position, spear in hand, over 
the seal-hole. This hole was buried in two feet of snow, and had 
been first detected by the keen sagacity of one of the dogs with 
him. Ebierbing, while watching, first thrust the spindle shank 
of the spear a score of times down through the snow, until he 
finally hit the small aperture leading through the ice. It was a 
dark night, and this made it the more difficult, for, in striking at 
a seal, it will not do to miss the .exact spot where the animal comes 
to breathe — no, not by a quarter of an inch. But, to make sure of 
being right when aiming, Ebierbing put some dark tuktoo hair 
directly over it, and thus, after patiently watching the whole night 
long, he was rewarded in the early morning by hearing the seal 
blow. In a moment more he captured it by a well-directed aim 
of his spear. 

The next morning, January 26th, the Innuits Ugarng, Ebier- 
bing, and Jack all separated for some place where they hoped to 
get seals. I supplied them as liberally as I could with my pro- 
visions, and then myself remained behind to proceed with certain 
observations I daily made in reference to determining positions, 
and otherwise noting down particulars concerning the locality 
around me. 

The rations sent me from the ship were examined and placed 
in safety from the dogs, but not from the truly honest Innuits, 
for such precaution was not needed ; and then I tried to go on 
with some work. But it was colder than we had yet experienced, 
the thermometer being that night (the seventeenth of my igloo 
life) 75° below the freezing j:>oiut ! Bemembering that our sealers 
were out on the ice, and, as they had said, would each be watch- 
ing for a prize, I shuddered, fully expecting they must be frozen 
to death; but what was my surprise and pleasure in the after- 
noon to see Jack and Ebierbing return, each with a seal — the one 
captured about midnight, the other early in the morning. 

Ebierbing admitted that he had felt the cold very much while 
watching, and, though well wrapped in furs tied around him, 
could hardly prevent his feet from freezing. As to his nose, that 
did get touched by the frost, but he soon remedied it by smoking 
a Yankee clay pipe "loaded" with Virginia tobacco. 

Ugarng returned in the evening unsuccessful. 

Another " seal-feast" was of course made, and on this occasion 
I supped on seal soup, with about two yards of frozen seal's en- 
trails (very good eating) as a finish to the affair. 




r:.V(.IN'i IN THE Wl.NTKK. 



INNUIT MODE OF EATING FOOD. 213 

These seal suppers I found to be most excellent. The seal- 
meat is cooked in a pan suspended for three or four hours over 
the fire-lamp. Generally it is boiled in water — half of it sea- 
water — and blood! "When ready, it is served up by first giving 
to each person a piece of the meat. This is followed by a dish of 
smoking-hot soup, that is, the material in which the seal has been 
cooked ; and I challenge auy one to find more palatable food in 
the United States. It is ambrosia and nectar! Once tasted, the 
cry is sure to be "More! more!" 

The seal-meat, I may state, is eaten by holding it in both hands, 
the fingers and the dental " mill" suppbying the offices of both 
knife and fork. This mode of eating was known before such in- 
struments were thought of. Among the Innuits generally, the 
following practice prevails : Before the igloo wife hands any one 
a piece of meat, she " soiqis" it all over, that is, suc7cs out all the 
fluid from the meat that would probably otherwise drip out. 
Farthermore, if there be any foreign matter upon it, such as seal, 
dog, or reindeer hairs, she licks them all off with her pliant tongue. 

On January 29th we had the cold so severe that the thermom- 
eter showed, during the night and in the morning, 82° below the 
freezing point ! yet, strangel} r , I had experienced more severe sen- 
sations of cold when the temperature was at zero than at this low 
state. Still it was cold, and bitingly cold ! How Ebierbing and 
the other men — who had again left on the previous evening — 
could keep to their watch during that cold night was to mc mar- 
velous; yet they did so; and when Ebierbing returned about 
9 A.M. without success, he told me that he was unwearied in his 
watchfulness all through the dreary time. At midnight a seal had 
come to breathe, but he was not so ready or so smart — probably 
was too much frozen — as to strike in time, and therefore lost it. 

Sometimes the wives accompany their husbands sealing, even 
in such weather. 

Eecording my own experience of igloo life at this time, I may 
here say that, having then spent twenty nights in a snow house, I 
enjoyed it exceedingly. Now, as I look back at the past, I find 
no reason to utter any thing different. I was as happy as cir- 
cumstances permitted, even though with Innuits only for my 
companions. Life has charms every where, and I must confess 
that Innuit life possesses those charms to a great degree for me. 

On the 31st we had a stranger visit us — a boy called Koo-oh- 
hong — who arrived from a spot one mile west of where our first 



214 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

igloo bad been erected. lie bad found us out, and stated tbat be 
left bebind, at tbe stopping-place, Mingumailo tbe angeko, witb 
bis two wives. Tbey bad started for that spot a short time pre- 
ceding us, but now, having been a long while without food, be 
came to see if we could supply him. The lad had an abundance 
given him, and never before did I see sucb an amount of gorging 
as I did then by tbat boy. 

Next day Ugarng departed on a visit to tbe sbip, and witb 
sundry presents of seal-meat, etc., from Ebierbing to his aged 

grandmotber and friends. I also sent a letter to Captain B , 

preferring to remain until I bad completed all my observations. 
While taking some of these, however, I " burned" my fingers most 
sadly by laying bold of my brass pocket sextant witb my bare 
band. I say burned tbem, because tbe effect was precisely tbe 
same as if I bad touched red-hot iron. Tbe ends of my finger- 
nails were like burnt bone or born ; and the fleshy part of tbe 
tips of my fingers and tbumbs were, in appearance and feeling, as 
if suddenly burnt by fire. 

On tbe 3d of February we caught sigbt of some reindeer on tbe 
ice, making their way slowly in single file northward, and eventu- 
ally coming within a quarter of a mile of our igloos. I had given 
my rifle to Ebierbing on tbe first sight of them, tbat be might 
try bis skill in killing one ; but, owing to tbe charge of powder 
being too small, be missed, and tbe reindeer, alarmed, darted off 
with the speed of tbe wind, mucb to our regret. 

That night, about 12 o'clock, we were aroused by a call from 
some one evidently in distress. The cry came from the passage- 
way just without the igloo, and was at once responded to by Ebi- 
erbing telling tbe stranger to come in. He did so, and who should 
stand before us but Mingumailo tbe angeko ! He spoke feebly, 
and said tbat be was very ill, thirsty, and hungry ; and tbat be, 
witb his family, bad had nothing to eat for nearly one month! Im- 
mediately a pile of frozen seal-meat was pointed out to him, with 
permission to eat some, and, quick as lightning, the famished man 
sprang to it like a starving bear. But bow be did gorge ! He 
swallowed enough, 1 thought, to bave killed six white men, yet 
be took it without any apparent discomfort. Water was supplied 
to bim, and of this he drank copiously — two quarts went down 
his camel stomach without drawing breath ! Seeing bis tremen- 
dous attack upon our precious pile of fresh provisions, I really felt 
alarmed lest be meant to demolish tbe whole, and leave us witb- 



IMPROVIDENCE OF THE NATIVES. 215 

out. To feed a hungry man was well enough, and a ready act on 
the part of all of us ; but then for him to have a stomach as huge 
and voracious as any polar bear, and try to fill that stomach from 
our limited supply of food, was more than we could reasonably 
stand. I grew impatient ; but finally the angeko gave in. He 
really had no power to stow away one piece more. lie was full 
to repletion ; and, throwing himself flat on the igloo floor, he re- 
signed himself to the heavy task Nature now had to perform 
in the process of digesting the monstrous heap he had taken 
within. 

After a time the angeko told us that one of his wives had accom- 
panied him, but had gone into another igloo. The other wife kept 
with them as far as she could, when he was obliged to leave her 
till means of relief could be found. He had built an igloo for her, 
and then hastened on to our snow village. In the morning Noo- 
okkong, the Innuit lad, went with some food to her, and soon aft- 
erward brought her in, thus making an addition of no less than 
four hungry mouths to aid in consuming our supplies. To add 
to our dilemma, Ugarng returned on the following day bringing 
with him three more fasting beings besides himself. They were 
his mother, Ookijoxy Ninoo, his nephew Eterloong, and his niece 
Ookoodlear, all related to Ebierbing. 

Ugarng, however, brought for me additional supplies from the 
ship ; but I saw quite clearly that, whatever I might feel inclined 
to do for my late companions in their need, it would never an- 
swer to begin supplying all strangers that arrived, particularly 
the angeko, who was lazy, and living upon the credulity of his 
people. Therefore I determined to stop this as speedily as pos- 
sible. The angeko, however, left us in a day or two for another 
place, where he and his wives were afterward found, again starv- 
ing. 

News from the ship told me that all were well on board, and 
that the natives had caught one seal, the captor being Koodloo, 
who had remained there when Ebierbing went with him on the 
first trip back to the vessel. 

Sterry, of the ship's company, had been some time living at a 
place in Frobisher Bay, and had, with the natives, caught two 

walrus. Captain B intended going thither the next month 

with some men, to see what could be done the coming season in 
the way of whaling. 

After this arrival, the usual daily incidents of our life were un- 



216 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

varied for some time. Occasionally seals were obtained, princi- 
pally by Ugarng and Ebierbing, and then a grand feast of raw 
food took place. 

The improvidence and thoughtlessness of the Innuit people are 
remarkable. If they can live bountifully and joyously to-day, the 
morrow may take its chance. This was repeatedly shown in the 
conduct of one and all during my residence with them in the 
igloos. Not even Ebierbing and Tookoolito were exempt from 
this failing. They would eat, and let others eat up all they had 
one da} r , though they — and, I must add, myself— starved the next. 
In addition to this want of due consideration concerning food for 
their own home, Tookoolito was generous in the extreme, always 
giving when asked, and trusting to what might happen afterward 
for replenishing the supply. Ugarng's numerous family, consist- 
ing of no less than seven individuals, made incessant demands 
upon her and Ebierbing, and also upon myself, whenever it could 
be done by cajolery, or — as I often thought would follow — by in- 
timidation. My own stores I freely gave to an extent that I con- 
sidered advisable, and no more ; but I frequently pointed out to 
my Esquimaux friends the necessity of husbanding what they 
obtained by their persevering and arduous labors. It was, how- 
ever, of no use. Eat, eat, give, give, let go and never mind, seem- 
ed the principle that guided them ; and, consequently, in a short 
time starvation again stared the whole village in the face. 

Ebierbing, however, was a most persevering and indefatigable 
sealer. During that season he caught more seals than any other 
man ; and on one occasion, by the aid of my rifle, which I had 
loaned to him, he succeeded in bringing back four seals, after hav- 
ing taken six, but two were lost. This was on an excursion he 
took by way of Clark's Harbor to Allen's Island. Ugarng had 
gone with him, and built an igloo near a narrow channel kept open 
by swift tides, discovered at that place. The angeko, staying at 
Clark's Harbor, would not stir from there, having found a deposit, 
formerly made by us in the ship, of whale krang, and upon this 
he and his two wives were living — that is, so far as he allowed the 
poor women to share with him. When, however, Ebierbing was 
returning with his great prize, this lazy, worthless angeko must 
needs join him to share in the feast which followed. I need hard- 
ly say that my own feelings toward the man were not of the most 
peaceable ; but I was alone, and even my two Innuit friends yield- 
ed to the sway of their angeko ; hence I was powerless to avert 



DEPARTURE FOR THE SHIP. 217 

aught such a man might instantly command to be done, had I of- 
fended him. 

When Ebierbing returned with the four seals he merely staid 
long enough for the feast, and was off again, with the understand- 
ing to look out for me, as I purposed following him. This I did 
on the 10th day of February, being the thirty-eighth of my de- 
parture from the ship, and of my living thus wholly among the 
Innuits. The Innuit Jack was my companion, and we arrived at 
Kowtukjua (Clark's Harbor) about 3 P.M. 

This place was where we had anchored in the ship during the 
previous fall, and where I nearly lost my life by the accidental 
pistol-shot on the 13th of August. I examined the locality, and 
then, at -4 P.M., started for Allen's Island. 

We arrived at Ugarng's igloo about 7 P.M., and were wel- 
comed by Kunniu, Ugarng himself being out sealing. Here I 
staid until the 18th, aiding them as far as I could, and curiously 
watching the various efforts made to sustain and enjoy life by 
these singular people of the North. 

In a future chapter I shall dwell upon this more largely ; but 
now I must only say that great success attended Ugarng's exer- 
tions, and when we all started for the igloo village it was with a 
good store of food upon our sledge. We arrived in the after- 
noon, and, after the usual feast, passed the evening in social con- 
versation. 

I had now been forty-two nights in an igloo, living with the 
natives most of the time on their food and according to their own 
customs. I therefore considered that I had gained some experi- 
ence in the matter, and, having made several observations for de- 
termining the locality of places, prepared for my return. 

I bade adieu to my Innuit friends in the village, and on the 
21st of February left what I then called " my Northern home" for 
the ship. I was accompanied by Ebierbing, Ugarng, and Kun- 
niu, and we had the sledge and dogs with us. The parting from 
Tookoolito was affecting. She evidently felt it ; but the hope of 
herself and husband soon being with me again on my future ex- 
cursions removed much of the disappointment she then felt at my 
going away. In fact, both she and Ebierbing were as children to 
me, and I felt toward them like what a parent would. 

It was a fine day when we left the village at 7 A.M., and rapid 
progress was made. As we moved out into the bay, a glow of 
red light suffused the heavens at the eastern part of the horizon, 



218 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and when we had made about four miles south the sun began to 
lift his glorious face, his darting rays kissing the peaks of the 
mountains around. Occasionally I looked back to the igloos 
where I had spent so many days— far from uncomfortable ones — 
among my Innuit friends ; but soon they were out of sight, and 
my thoughts now turned wholly to the warm hearts that I hoped 
to meet on board that night. 

At 9 A.M. we reached new ice, which started the sealers to try 
their hands once more for a prize. In ten minutes more Ebier- 
bing had found a hole, and actually secured a seal ! He hailed 
me to come, and, on reaching the spot, I was asked to pull the 
seal up while he enlarged the hole, that it might be drawn on to 
the ice. I did so ; and as the beautiful, eloquent eyes of the vic- 
tim met my sight, I felt a sort of shudder come over me, for it 
seemed to say, " Why disturb me here ? I do no harm. Do not 
kill me !" But the great sealer, Ebierbing, with his spear, had al- 
ready enlarged the hole, and, hauling the prize higher up, speed- 
ily ended its life by a few well-directed thrusts midway between 
the seal's fore-flippers. Not a struggle did the victim make. Its 
end was as peaceful as that of a lamb. 

Ugarng had been unsuccessful ; but the one prize of Ebierbing 
was something, and, after properly securing it to the sledge, away 
we went on our course again. At 10 A.M. we lunched on frozen 
seal, and our dinner was the same. "We reached the land at 3 
P.M., and crossed it in two hours and forty-five minutes to Field 
Bay. A half hour's traveling upon the ice brought us to the 
ship, where I found all the crew ready to welcome me with out- 
stretched hands, and, I am sure, kindly hearts. For a moment, 
on once more standing upon the ship's deck, I felt myself over- 
powered ; but, speedily recovering, I returned the congratulations 
offered, and, after seeing my companions were attended to, I de- 
scended to the cabin, where numerous comforts of civilization 
awaited me. A warm supper was most acceptable. I was much 
fatigued with my journey ; and, soon after a short conversation 
which followed, I gladly retired. Once more, then, did I enter 
my own little domicile, where I did not forget to return thanks to 
Him who had so preserved me in health and safety during that, 
my first experience of personal life among the native Innuit tribes 
of the icy North. 



NATIVE VILLAGE ON THE ICE. 219 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Irksome Change from a Snow House to the Ship's Cabin. — Native Village on the 
Ice. — Scurvy on Board. — Best Cure for it. — "Tuktoo! Tuktoo!" — A Reindeer 
Hunt. — Dogs in Chase. — Remarkable Sagacity and Courage of Barbekurk. — The 
Deer killed by him. — Great Struggle between them. — A Venison Feast for the 
Ship's Crew. — Death of Blind George's Wife. — Some of the sick Crew sent to live 
with the Natives. — Thelnnuit King-wat-che-ung. — His Kindness to White Men. 
— Koojesse and Charley. — A sick Man's Obstinacy. — One of the Sailors missing. — 
Search for him. — Severely cold Weather. — Most of the Party unable to keep np 
the Search. — The Author and one Sailor persevere. — The missing Man's Tracks ; 
his erratic Movements ; he gets confused and goes Seaward ; has a Rest in the 
Snow ; moves on again, and proceeds Miles from the Shi]) ; his Scramble round 
an Iceberg. — Author and his Companion exhausted. — Temptation to lie down 
nnd Sleep. — Sledge arrives from the Ship. — Search continued. — Tracks lead to 
the Shore. — Signs of a fearful Struggle. — Discovery of the Body, frozen stiff. — 
Ground too hard to dig a Grave. — Cover the Corpse with Ice and Snow. — Return 
to the Ship. 

My first night (February 21st, 1861) on board the George Hen- 
ry, after forty-three days away in an igloo, was a sleepless one ; 
not from any want of comfort, but in consequence of the supera- 
bundance of it. From the pure atmosphere of a snow house to 
the warm, confined air of a small cabin, the change is great, and 
I felt it extremely while undergoing the resulting "sweating" 
process. 

The next morning I visited the crew to see how the men were, 
and was sorry to find one or two cases of scurvy among them. 
The legs of one man, from his knees down to his feet, were almost 
as black as coal tar. In reply to a question put to me, I said that 
forty-three days in an igloo among Innuits was, in my opinion, 
the best cure for them. I then went on shore with Captain 
B . 

My dogs were all well, and right glad to see me. The wreck 
of the Rescue still existed, though much of its materials had been 
used for fuel and other useful purposes. 

I found, astern of the George Henry, several igloos built upon 
the ice, though but few of the natives remained here. Nearly all 
the inhabitants of both villages had gone away to Frobisher Bay, 
where they hoped more success would attend their exertions to 



220 ARCTIC EESEAECn EXPEDITION. 

procure food. Indeed, I understood that not less than a hundred 
Innuits were located in one place, and doing well. 

On the 24th of February Ebierbing returned to Cornelius Grin- 
nell Bay, carrying with him many presents and articles of provi- 
sions for himself and wife, given by Captain B and myself. 

Ugarng also went away well loaded ; and Koodloo and his family, 
Sharkey, with some of our dogs, and one or two other persons, 
likewise departed for the same place. Sharkey was to come back 
soon with the dogs, which were only loaned to him for the occa- 
sion. Koojesse, Johnny Bull, Kokerzhun, and all the natives that 
were about the ship on my arrival, or who came over soon after- 
ward from Frobisher Bay, evinced their joy at my return in a 
way that much pleased me, and showed that I had a hold of no 
slight nature upon their affections. 

Thus two or three days passed away while preparations were 
being made by the ship's company for their spring whaling, and 
by myself for another excursion, previous to making an effort to- 
ward proceeding on the main object of my voyage. 

While thus occupied, an incident occurred that, when related, 
as here, from notes taken at the time and from facts well-attested, 
may perhaps, by some of my readers, be deemed almost incredi- 
ble. But precisely as it took place, just so I narrate it. 

About 9 A.M. of March the 4th, the Innuit Charley, then on 
deck, reported reindeer in sight upon the ice. This immediately 
caused much excitement, and, from captain to cabin-boy, the cry 
ran through the ship, " Tuktoo ! Tuktoo I" Of course we were 
now all but certain we should get a taste of north country venison, 
for there were numbers of us to give chase and insure a capture. 
Guns were charged, and a whole party were going off to the hunt, 
when it occurred to the more knowinsr ones that it would be wise 

O 

to let Koojesse, who offered himself, proceed alone, taking with 
him only the rifle which I put in his hands. The wind, which 
was blowing from the north, placed the herd on the windward 
side of him, thus making his chance more favorable on account 
of the deer being unable so readily to " scent" the foe. 

As Koojesse cautiously proceeded, we all watched him most 
eagerly. Fifteen minutes saw him "breasted" by a small island 
toward which the deer approached. "When they were within 
rifle shot he fired, but evidently missed, for the game wheeled 
round and darted away. 

Directly the report was heard, Barbekark, my Greenland dog, 



REINDEER HUNT. 221 

bounded off toward the battle-ground, followed by all the other 
dogs. This was annoying, as it threatened to put an end to any 
more firing at the game ; and if they would have heeded us, we 
should have instantly recalled them. But it was now useless. 
The dogs -were in full chase, and fears were entertained that if 
they got too far away, some, if not all of them, would be lost. At 
length we saw Barbekark pursuing — not in the deer (racks, cir- 
cuitous, flexuous, mazy in course, but — in a direct line, thus evin- 
cing a sagacity most remarkable. The other dogs, not taking the 
same course, soon fell behind. 

On and on went Barbekark, straight for a spot which brought 
him close upon the deer. The latter immediately changed their 
course, and so did Barbekark, hot in pursuit after them. Thus it 
continued for near two hours; first this way, then that; now in 
a circle, then zigzag ; now direct, then at right angles, among the 
numerous islands at the head of the bay. 

For a while nothing more was thought of the affair, save an ex- 
pression of regret that the dogs would not be able to find their 
way home, so far had they been led by the enticing game. 

A little before twelve, midday, Barbekark was seen coming 
back, and presently he came on board, with blood around his 
mouth and over his body. No importance was attached to this 
beyond supposing that he had come into collision with the deer ; 
but as for killing one, the thought was not entertained for a mo- 
ment. Those who had often wintered in the arctic regions said 
they had never known a dog to be of any use in hunting down 
deer, and therefore we concluded that our game was gone. But 
there was something in the conduct of Barbekark that induced a 
few of the men to think it possible he had been successful. He 
was fidgety, and restlessly bent upon drawing attention to the 
quarter where he had been chasing. 

lie kept whining, and going first to one and then another, as if 
asking them to do something he wanted. The captain even no- 
ticed him jumping about, and playing unusual pranks; running 
toward the gangway steps, then back again. This he did several 
times, but still no one gave him more than a passing notice. lie 
went to Keency and tried to enlist Ms attention, which at last he 
did so far as to make him come down to me (I was writing in my 
cabin at the time) and mention it; but I gave no heed, being so 
much occupied with my work. Perhaps, had Barbekark found 
me, I should have comprehended his actions. As it was, he failed 



222 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

to convey his meaning to any body. Presently one of the men. 
"called " Spikes," went off to the wreck of the Rescue, and Barbe- 
kark immediately followed ; but, seeing that Spikes went no far- 
ther, the dog bounded off to the northwest, and then Spikes con- 
cluded that it was really possible Barbekark had killed the deer. 
Accordingly, he returned on board, and a party of the ship's crew 
started to see about it, though the weather was very cold and in- 
clement. They were away two hours; and when they came 
back, we could observe that each was carrying something like a 
heavy bundle on his head. Still we could not believe it possible 
that it was portions of the deer ; and only when they came so 
near that the strange fact was perceptible could we credit our 
senses. One man, almost Hercules like, had the skin wrapped 
around him, another had half of the saddle, a third the other half, 
and the rest each some portion of the deer that we had all espe- 
cially noticed. In a short time they were on board, and depos- 
ited their loads triumphantly on the scuttle-door leading to the 
cooking department below. 

Every officer and man of the ship, all the Innuits and Innuit 
dogs, then congregated around the tempting pile of delicious fresh 
meat, the trophy, as it really proved, of my fine Greenland dog 
Barbekark. The universal astonishment was so great that hard- 
ly a man of us knew what to say. At length we heard the facts 
as follows : 

Our men had followed Barbekark's return tracks for about a 
mile from the vessel, in a direct line northward ; thence westward 
some two miles farther to an island, where, to their surprise, they 
found Barbekark and the other Greenland dogs seated upon their 
haunches around the deer lying dead before them. 

On examination, its throat was shown to be cut with Barbe- 
kark's teeth as effectually as if any white man or Innuit had done 
it with a knife. The windpipe and jugular vein had both been 
severed; more, a piece of each, with part of the roots of the 
tongue, the skin and flesh covering the same, had actually been 
bitten out. The moment " Sam," one of the men in advance of 
the rest, approached, Barbekark jumped from his watchful posi- 
tion close by the head of his victim and ran to meet him, with 
manifestations of delight, wagging his tail and swinging his head 
about. At the same time he looked up into Sam's eyes as if say- 
ing, "I've done the best I could ; I've killed the deer, eaten just 
one luscious mouthful, and lapped up some of the blood. I now 



DOG BARBEKARK KILLS THE DEER. 



223 



give up what you see, merely asking for myself and these my 
companions, who have been faithfully guarding the prize, such 
portions as yourselves may disdain !" 

The snow around the spot showed that a terrible fight had tak- 
en place before the deer gave up its life. Somehow during the 
struggle one of the deer's hind legs had got broken ; and when 
our men arrived at the spot, several crows were there picking 
away at the carcass. But Barbekark and the crow family were 
always on good terms, and probably this was the reason why he 
did not drive them away, for sometimes they rested upon his 
back. 




i;ac-i;e-kaek killing the iieisdeee. 



As soon as our men had reached the dead deer and found it 
ready for them, they skinned it, and then cut it in pieces for car- 
rying on board. They regretted that no harnesses were at hand, 
so that they might have had the dogs — Barbekark at the head as 
conqueror — drag the whole carcass to the ship. As soon as the 
prize was on board, it was fairly distributed among the ship's 
company fore and aft, and my brave dog was greeted with many 
a word of praise for his remarkable hunting feat! 

In afterward dressing the deerskin, it was seen that the ball 



224 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

from my rifle, fired by Koojesse, bad really taken effect. It was 
found in a piece of the flesh still adhering to the skin, at that part 
■which covered the hip. The ball had gone through the skin, and 
was flattened by striking the bone. I have that ball, and keep it 
as a memento of this remarkable affair. 

In referring to this incident a day or two afterward, Captain 
B said to the men, " Boys, who at home, think you, will be- 
lieve that affair of Barbekark's and the deer-hunt, with what fol- 
lowed ?" The general reply was, " Not one in a thousand will be- 
lieve it." "In fact," added the captain, "/can hardly believe it 
even now, though it was so." And thus may many others say ; 
yet the facts are precisely as I have related them, and they are 
evidence of the keen sagacity and almost human intelligence, al- 
lied to great bravery, of my faithful Greenland dog Barbekark. 

On the 5th of March Sharkey returned from Cornelius Grinnell 
Bay. He was accompanied by one of the angeko's wives, and 
brought us information of all my Innuit friends, and also of Xi- 
faijar's death, which occurred about two or three days after I had 
left. 

I have before mentioned that this woman, Nikujar, was the 
family wife No. 1 of Ugarng, and had formerly been the wife of 
Blind George. Indeed, until he became blind, she was to him a 
happy and loving partner, giving him the one child, Koolcooyer, 
be now so much doted upon ; but when the curtains of an end- 
less night were drawn over him, he lost her. She consented to 
become the wife of Ugarng, leaving the noble-hearted but now 
blind " eagle" to be alone. 

By Ugarng Nikujar had another child, Me-noun, but she was 
always wishing to have her first one, Kookooyer, with her. 
Thus it was that I so often saw the girl in Ugarng's home instead 
of with her own father. Nikujar, however, did not get on quite 
so well as she had expected. Ugarng's second wife, Kuuniu, 
seemed to be his favorite, probably on account of her being so 
serviceable to him in hunting and sealing; and Nikujar had fre- 
quently to remain by herself, or with wife No. 3, to take care of 
their home. Disease also laid hold of her. She was sick when I 
first saw her, and consumption had sown the seeds of death in her 
frame. Gradually she wasted away, and during my sojourn at 
the igloo village it was evident to me she could not long survive. 
It was therefore no surprise when I heard of her decease. To 
Blind George, however, who was on board when the news arrived, 



A MAN LOST, AND FOUND EEOZEN DEAD. -^;, 

the intelligence was a heavy blow. Notwithstanding her faith- 
lessness, he had always retained his original love for the mother 
of their dear child ; and when he heard she was no more, he went 
and hid himself, that he might mourn without restraint. "When 
I sought him out, I found he was giving way to almost uncon- 
trollable grief, his eyes streaming with tears, and his lamentations 
loud and painful to hear. I tried to comfort him, and by sooth- 
ing words direct his thoughts upward, where the best consolation 
is ever found. 

At this time a very serious event occurred, the narrative of 
which I here transcribe from my diary : 

"Sunday, March 17th, 1861, 11 o'clock, night. 

" A man lost ! The man found — dead ! ! frozen to death ! ! ! 

" I am too fatigued, my mind too overwhelmed with the dread- 
ful incidents of the day, to make record of what belongs to this 
day's journal. I leave all for the morrow, after having said, 

" Peace to the soul of John Brown, one of the men of the 
George Henry f" 

"Monday, March 18th, 1861. 

"I now resume the painful record of the subject foreshadowed 
in the few words of my last night's penning. 

"Turning back to the record of last Tuesda}' (I refer to my 
MS. journal book), it will be seen that two of the George Henry's 
men, John Brown (who now sleeps in death) and James Bruce, 
both afflicted with scurvy, were sent to Oopungnewing, in Fro- 
bisher Bay, distant by sledge-route seventeen nautical miles, for 
the purpose of having them stay with the Innuits for a while, liv- 
ing exclusively upon fresh meat, walrus and seal. They accom- 
panied, as there stated, the Innuit "Bob" (King-wat-che-ung), 

with whom Captain B made distinct arrangements to care 

for them, providing for all their necessities. This Innuit Bob has 
a noble soul, one that prompts him to nolle deeds, continually out- 
pouring in behalf of the poor, the friendless, the unfortunate, and 
i'k. lie is the one to whom Captain B feels himself in- 
debted for saving his life in the disastrous winter here of I800-6, 

when he (Captain B ) lost thirteen of the crew of his vessel — 

the Qeorgiana — by scurvy. 

"On Friday last, March 15th, by the journal (my MS. journal), 
it will also be seen that Koojcsse and Charley (Koo-per-ne-ung) 
went over to the Innuit settlements at Frobisher Bay with the 
dogs and sledge, for the object of trafficking for walrus tusks and 

P 



226 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

meat. It was expected that they would return by the evening 
of the same day, but the inclement weather that succeeded their 
starting out, the gale of the night and next day, prevented their 
return till twelve meridian of Saturday, at which hour they 
started. 

"John Brown and James Bruce, feeling so much relieved of their 
complaint, they prepared themselves to return with Koojesse and 
Charley. While the load of walrus skins, walrus meat, etc., was 
being lashed to the sledge by the two Innuits, Brown and Bruce 
started on together. They had not proceeded more than half a 
mile when Bruce proposed that they should return, delaying their 
journey to another day, as the wind was blowing strong and cold; 
the indications of the weather being otherwise unpropitious. To 
this proposal Brown objected. Bruce declared they would be 
frozen before they could reach the vessel, and this being his hon- 
est conviction, he not only decided to go back to the igloo they 
had just left, but strenuously exerted himself to induce Brown to 
do likewise. The last words of this unfortunate young man to 
his companion (Bruce) were, 'I'm going on ; for, by G — , I'm de- 
termined to have my duff and apple-sauce* at to-morrow's dinner.' 

"Bruce returned to Bob's igloo, taking from the sledge his sleep- 
ing blankets. Brown finally retraced his steps until he met the 
sledge party, which he joined, continuing his journey homeward 
to the vessel. The sledge was" heavily loaded, so that their prog- 
ress was very slow. Having proceeded some seven miles, hum- 
mocky ice obliged Charley and Koojesse to leave the greater part 
of the load. To unload and make a deposit under piles of ice 
was a work of time. Brown was anxious to proceed without the 
delay requisite to make the cache. He made known his determin- 
ation to proceed alone. The two Innuits, who foresaw the dan- 
gers to which Brown was about to expose himself, advised that he 
should wait for them. All that these experienced, storm-and-cold- 
proof men of the North could say in warning him did not suffice 
to cool the ardent desire of Brown to join as early as possible his 
cheer companions at the George II inn. 

"Seeing that Brown was about to take his departure, Koojesse 
and Charley persuaded him to take along one of the dogs, that i: 

* Sunday is duff-day with the forward hands. "Duff" is a favorite dish with them, 
and also, I may say, with the officers and all in the steerage. The "apple-sauce" re- 
ferred to in Brown's remark is explained by the fact that dried apples are incorpo- 
rated in the "duff." 



A SICK MAN'S OBSTINACY. 227 

might guide him in the direct route to the ship. Koojesse disen- 
gaging the single trace from the peto* the same was passed to 
Brown's hand.. Thus he had a guide, a leader in harness, whose 
instinct was truer than that of any man, with all his boasted in- 
teUigence. But this dog Brown exchanged for a younger one un- 
used to the route. With heart bounding with hopeful throbbings 
that he would soon be among his home companions — that he 
would soon be participating in the longed-for food of civilization 
(for which he had acquired a hundred-fold stronger desire than he 
ever had before, in the course of his brief stay among the Innuits, 
whose almost sole living is fresh animal food), Brown started on, 
traveling with vigorous step the rough ice-road before him. Long 
before the safe ice-covering had been made over the meat deposit, 
Brown was out of sight of Koojesse and Charley. 

" A few minutes after twelve o'clock that night (Saturday) I 
retired. A little later, I heard first the cry of the dogs ; then the 
loud, peculiar, and unmistakable voice of the Innuit dog-driver; 
and then the musical sledge, whose glassy bone-shoeing rung to 
the music of the snows. 

"Previous to my turning in, all hands had retired. No one 
was up to learn the news from Frobisher Ba}' settlements. 

" The sledge was driven up alongside of the George Henry; the 
dogs were quickly unharnessed ; the small portion of the original 
load was placed on deck, out of reach of the dogs, Charley de- 
parting for his igloo near the stern of the vessel ; while Koojesse 
(whose winter quarters are with us) hastened in, divesting him- 
self of his dress, and placing himself alongside of his warm sleep- 
ing miliaria, Tu-nuk-der-lien, who had retired hours before I did. 
to the usual place of their tuktoo bed, close beside the door of 
my sleeping apartment. A few moments found the wear)- In- 
nuit, my friend Koojesse, in the arms of sleep. The sleep of a 
tired Innuit is usually accompanied with loud nasal sounds. 

"My lateness in retiring on Saturday night, my unquiet sleep. 
made me a later riser on the following glorious day of days — 
the Sabbath. 

" Breakfast hour with us is eight o'clock. I was up and dress- 
ed only half an hour in advance. What was the first news thai 
awaited me? That one of my ' Greenlanders' had been outrage- 
ously mutilated by some Innuit, who had cut clean off the ani- 

* The short line ttiat connects all the draught lines or traces of the dogs to the 
nraners of the sledge. 



228 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

mal's left ear. ' King-ok,' a fine dog, was the subject of this wick- 
ed act. King-ok's offense was biting harnesses. As I have said 
before in my journal, let a dog offend an Innuit, and woe be to 
the dog ! Any instrument at hand is used in administering pun- 
ishment. In this case a snow-knife was seized, and my noble dog 
King-ok became the terrible sufferer of an ungoverned passion. 

" I had allowed my six dogs, in order to complete the team of 
twelve, to be used in making this Frobisher Bay trip for the ad- 
vancement of the George Henry's interests. Captain B burned 

with laudable indignation on learning the sad condition of my 
dog. "What astounded me, and every one of the ship's company, 
was the discovery of the fact that Koojesse was the Innuit who 
committed this brutal deed. His only excuse was that his com- 
panion Charley had first severed the ear of his dog, and he (Koo- 
jesse) thought he must do the same to my dog. 

"But what of this — cruel and savage though these two acts 
were — compared with the terrible story I am yet to relate ? 

"Yesterday morning, after breakfast, I went upon deck, and 
there met Ad Bailey, who said to me, standing by the gangway, 
' Charley has just told me that the Frenchman, John Brown, start- 
ed from the igloos of Frobisher Bay with them (Koojesse and 
Charley) ; that he, Brown, finally left them, and came on ahead ; 
that they saw nothing more of Brown ; but, as they passed from 
the land on to the ice of Field Bay, this side, saw his tracks, and 
wished to know of Bailey what time Brown arrived at the vessel.' 

"Bailey had just ascertained from the hands forward where 
Brown belonged that he had not arrived J At once, under a pain- 
ful apprehension of the real state of the case, I rushed down into 
the cabin, made my way to the captain's room, where I found him 
preparing for his usual deck- walk, and announced to him the facts 
I had just learned, telling him of my immediate readiness to go in 
search of him who I knew must be lost, suffering, or — as I feared 
from the cold of the night (57° below the freezing point) — a dead 

man. Captain B instantly went forward, and learned that 

what I had told him was too true — that Brown had not arrived. 
Only a bundle of blankets and fresh walrus meat was there, just 
brought in by Charley, the same having been placed on the sledge 

by Brown on the point of starting home. Captain B ordered 

Brown's ship companions to go in immediate search. This was 

responded to cheerfully, of course. Captain B returned to 

the aft cabin, and told me that parties were getting ready to move. 



THE SEARCH FOR BROWN. 229 

x\.s fast as I could, I made the exchange of civilization dress for 
my Innuit costume. "With my marine glass and compass in hand, 
I made my way on deck. A company of ten men met me there, 
prepared for the dangerous work before us. The thought occur- 
red to me that we should take along with us one of the Iunuits 
of the sledge party which came in on Saturday night, either Koo- 
jesse or Charley. Seeing the former on deck, I asked him to ac- 
company us. He quickly joined in. Our first work was to go 
to the spot where the tracks of poor Brown were seen as reported. 

" We set out at 8 20 A.M., taking a true "W.N.W. course. 
Our movements were rapid, impelled by the feeling that incited 
all hearts with the hope we might be in time to save human life. 
It was only occasionally that we walked — we ran! I felt, oh! 
that we had wings, and could determine these anxious fears and 
doubts in a few moments, instead of waiting the hours that it will 
require to settle them ! Koojesse and Sam, both great travelers, 
were for pressing on with all their immediate strength. I knew 
this would not do; that by this course they would not only sac- 
rifice their own important services for a long search, which evi- 
dently it would be, but also those of all the other men. I there- 
fore repeatedly cautioned them to do only as they and all of us 
could also do and hold out. But neither reason nor a prudent 
foresight of the prolonged hours which would be required in this 
painful service could stay them. One after another of our com- 
pany fell back. Ere we came within two miles of the tracks, 
even Koojesse gave out. Eve was obliged to move with slow 
steps from his overexertion. The sequel will show the wisdom 
of my advice, which was finally acknowledged by all, even Sam. 
I may as well state here that, after proceeding three miles from 
the vessel, I saw, away in the distance, objects that appeared mov- 
ing. I called attention to them. Then I first learned that a par- 
ty of five had preceded us in this search. Though they had fif- 
teen minutes' start of us, we were soon up with them. 

" When we came within a quarter of a mile of the land, the 
tracks of poor Brown were found by Koojesse, who had seen the 
same but a few hours before. The distance made from the ship 
was full six geographic or sea miles in one hour and forty-two 
minutes, the patty arriving at the tracks at 10 10 A.M. Only 
four out of the ten accomplished this, myself of the number that 
did. I could not be in the rear, injudicious ns I knew to be the 
overexertion that we were making. 



230 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

" Soon as we struck upon the almost obliterated footprints of 
the lost one, our movements were even quickened. Yet the 
tracks led, for more than a mile, in a direct course to the vessel, 
and but a few steps southward of our way up. I have written, a 
few lines preceding this, the words, ' the almost obliterated foot- 
prints of the lost one.' By reference to my journal (IIS. journal i 
of last night, I see that I there noted the following phenomenon, 
viz., ' Showers of snow while the heavens are clear. Stars shin- 
ing brightly.' At midnight, the time of my last visit to the deck. 
I wrote this, though a previous record had been made of the same 
phenomenon taking place as early as 9 P.M. 

" ' Twelve, midnight, stars shining : all clear over the whole- 
expanse, yet snowing ! Thermometer —12°.' 

" This accounted for the filling up of the tracks. Besides, the 
light wind of this morning had swept the beautiful fine snow- 
crystals into them. 

" We followed on hopefully, some of our number even saying, 
' It may be we shall find John has arrived at the vessel ahead of 
us.' Oh that it had proved so ! 

" The course of Brown was so near ours outward that those 
who had fallen behind had but to turn a little southward to reach 
it. Hence those who were last became first in the search. The 
upper part of Field Bay is studded with islets. To one of these 
his footprints were directed. At length they turned around its 
southwestern side, where he met with hummocks that obstructed 
his course. Still farther south he bent his steps to get around 
them. Each of these turns had a tendency to throw him out of 
the true course to the ship, which at first he evidently had in 
mind. 

" One of the men, finding a place among the ice to which Brown 
had turned in, actually exclaimed, ' Here he is !' But his out- 
ward steps were soon traced, so that this gleam was soon over- 
shadowed. 

" Getting out again in full view of the bay, Brown nearly re- 
gained his original course. Following this a while, he again de- 
viates. Now our hearts are cheered again, for he takes a proper 
course ; another minute and we are sad — he diverges. After 
having taken a wrong course, which overwhelmed all with sor- 
row as we followed it for seven minutes, he suddenly turned north- 
erly toward a magnificently-pinnacled iceberg that is ice-locked 
away up the bay. This we thought he had recognized, and that, 



THE SEARCII CONTINUED. 231 

on reaching it, he would then know where he should direct his 
steps. But, alas ! too soon he turns in another — a wrong direc- 
tion. 

" His tracks by eleven o'clock A.M. showed that he was lost. 
Up to this hour it was evident to us that John had in mind near- 
ly the proper direction in which the harbor of the vessel lay. It 
is true that now and then his tracks led in a direction that indi- 
cated doubt, but mainly otherwise. When John Brown first 
made Field Bay, passing from the land over which he had j ust 
come from Frobisher Bay, it must have been nine o'clock last 
night. He could have been but a little in advance of the sledge 
party he had left in Frobisher Bay. Hence it was not by daylight 
that he was struggling to reach the vessel ; for, not being used to 
traveling alone, nor familiar with the route, and it being by night 
he was traveling, no wonder at his deviations as indicated to us 
up to the hour I have named, to wit, eleven o'clock A.M. But 
at this hour I exclaimed, ' Seel see! he who made those tracks was 
lost.' They were tortuous, zigzag, circular, this way and that — 
every way but the right way. 

"At length John took a course S.S.W., leading him obliquely 
to the opposite side of the bay from where the vessel lay. How 
our hearts ached at this. Making, finally, a large circular sweep 
— having perhaps seen the dark, black, buttress-like mountains be- 
fore him, which he must have known were not on the side of the 
ba/he wished to make — he then took a S.S.E. course, which wa^ 
the proper one, had he not been making the southing which he 
had. But this he did not long follow. Another and another 
bend in his steps, all leading him out of the way. 

"I here state that, in following the tortuous tracks leading 
southwesterly, Sam Wilson and Morgan continued a direct course 
southeast. Soon the alarm was raised that Sam and Morgan had 
sighted the object of our search. We looked in that direction, and 
concluded they had, for they were under a full run. A piece of 
dark-colored ice, raised up from the main, had, however, deceived 
them. 

" On, on we followed the steps of the lost for miles, leading gen- 
erally southeast. 

" Some distance ahead of me and William Johnston were Mor- 
gan, Sam Wilson, and ' Fluker.' I felt that I was acting the ju- 
dicious part, and therefore kept up a rapid walk — a gait that I 
could sustain for hours. Occasionally I cast my eyes back. 



232 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Groups were still following after, some of them far behind. At 
12 o'clock M. I was pained to see that all in our rear had become 
exhausted, and were directing their steps toward the vessel. Out 
of twenty men in all who left the ship, but five of us now contin- 
ued the search. 

" I must confess that the race of the morning had seriously ex- 
hausted my strength. Nothing but the hope of saving human 
life could have induced me to take another step at twelve. By 
occasional rests, myself and my companion were reinvigorated. 
By this prudence, and that of avoiding farther overexertion in 
running, we found that we were fast gaining upon the three ahead 
of us. 

" Thirst — burning thirst continually harassed me. Seeing an 
iceberg at our right, we turned to it. Seating ourselves by it, 
with our knives we chipped off piece after piece, with which our 
thirst was partially allayed. The first piece which I put into my 
mouth froze it fast. Tongue, palate, and lips refused farther 
service until the ice became of freezing water temperature. The 
cause of this of course was that the ice contained a degree of cold- 
ness even far lower than the temperature of the air then around 
us. The air at twelve and one o'clock was only 42° below freez- 
ing point, while the berg was 60° — that is, 28° below zero. I took 
the precaution of holding succeeding pieces in my mittened hand 
until I raised their temperature to near freezing point, when I 
could with perfect safety introduce them to my parched tongue. 

"By-the-by, I found one serious obstacle to my stopping to 
rest. Cramps of a most excruciating character in the calves of 
my legs threatened to overpower me. After 1 o'clock P M. I suf- 
fered less from them. This grievous affliction arose, undoubted- 
ly, from the overexertion upon our setting out. 

"At 1 o'clock P.M. I and "William Johnston saw the three 
ahead of us (Morgan, Sam, and Fluker) throw themselves flat on 
the ice. By this we knew the} 7, had become exhausted. Fifteen 
minutes later found us with them, and flat beside them. Oh, how 
glad I was to make my bed for a while upon this bosom of the 
deep ! how refreshed we all were by that prostration of our wear} 7 
limbs ! While we were resting, Sam exclaimed, ' Well, come, let 
us eat dinner;' these words being accompanied by the act of 
drawing out of his pocket two sea-biscuit. One of the other men 
drew out another. These three cakes of bread made us a feast, 
though weighing but three quarters of a pound total. The fore- 



SEABCHmG-PABTI EXHAUSTED.— AUTHOB PEBSEVEBES. 233 

sight that could make this provision should have kept in reserve 
the strength which the exigencies of our undertaking required. 

" We were all invigorated by the repast, and by resting, though 
only for the space of fifteen minutes. 

" At 1 30 P.M. we resumed our march. We were now on dan- 
gerous ice, near the mouth of Field Bay, the tracks of the lost one 
still leading us seaward. A heavy sea might take us beyond our 
power to return. Every one felt that if Brown continued the 
course in which we were then following him, he must have ar- 
rived at a point where he had been carried out to sea on some 
floe. 

•■ Most of our little companj- felt that they could not go farther, 
so exhausted were they. Sam Wilson was the first of the five to 
declare he would not ; he said he could not go farther, although 
lie was one of the forward ones of the morning. Yet he did con- 
tinue on with us until ten minutes past two P.M. They felt they 
had tried to perforin their duty. This was a terrible blow to me. 
I felt that I could not give it up so, discouraging as was my con- 
dition. I resolved that, so long as God should spare my strength. 
I would follow on and on ; and, knowing the risk, I did not feel 
that I could take the responsibility of persuading any one to ac- 
company me. Up to this time the course of the tracks was tor 
tuous — now sweeping almost in circles, now to southeast, now to 
the east, now to the northeast, now to the south, but mainly lead- 
ing to the open sea, far to the east. I regretted much that some- 
one of us had not thought to bring along a snow-knife. With 
this simple instrument in hand, I would have taken the responsi- 
bility of inducing some one to continue on with me. With this 
we could have erected an igloo for the night, or any other time, 
if we should be overtaken by a gale or storm before our return. 
Fifteen minutes after two P.M. I left my companions, who had 
resolved to return, and proceeded on alone. I knew God would 
be with me in my work. I had not proceeded far before I was 
overtaken by William Johnston, who said, 'I have resolved that 
I will accompany you rather than return now. I do not feel that 
I have more than strength enough left than would enable me to 
return to the vessel ; but I may feel better soon. John was my 
shipmate, and I loved him. I shall ever regret, perhaps, if I re- 
turn now.' 

" Aa we passed on together, we were soon encouraged by find- 
ing the tracks bending away from the direction of Davis's Straits. 



234 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Our feelings of hope were soon increased almost to those of joy, 
for we found the main course of the tracks now led west, as if 
John had seen the mountains westward, and to them was attempt- 
ing to make his way, and then follow them up to the point where 
he left the land. But how soon was this cup dashed from our 
hopeful lips ! The steps of the lost soon circle around to the 
southeast, then east, carrying us back again. For fifteen minutes 
we followed a true course west. Hope lifted us up again, and 
quickened our steps. At last they turned, circling to the south : 
thence around all the points of the compass, crossing, for the first 
time, his own tracks. This occurred one hour after parting com- 
pany with our men, whom we had left to return. Having follow- 
ed his footprints around this circle of twenty rods radius, in less 
than three minutes another circle occurs. He now strikes due 
north. With bounding, almost happy hearts, we follow, for this 
course leads almost directly to the vessel. The channel of water 
leading to Bear Sound of Frobisher was only ten miles due south 
of us. This place, though of historical and geographical interest 
to me, was as naught in the work I was now performing. 

" But how oft is man doomed to disappointment ! The tracks 
turn again in a circle. Now they come in rapid succession. 
Bound and round the bewildered, terror-stricken, and almosr 
frozen one makes his way. Five circles, one interlocking anoth- 
er, does the lost man make; then strikes out, and continues two 
more — in all, twelve circles did John make within less than two 
miles. 

"During our protracted search, I and my companion often 
threw ourselves flat upon the hard snow that covered the sea-ice. 
This gave us rest. At one of these resting-places I fell instantly 
into a sound sleep. Had I been alone, I know not what would 
have been the result ; but Johnston roused me after considerable 
exertion, and we pressed on. Every now and then we came to 
places where the lost one had seated himself to rest. In all, we 
found eight such places. Just before the company parted, we 
came to a spot where John had made a hole down into the snow, 
evidently with the desire to get some of the most compact with 
which to quench his thirst During this whole search we made 
frequent calls on 'John' by loud shouting. 

"At four o'clock, while following the tracks, which were then 
tending northward, I thought I heard the cry of dogs. I threw 
back my hood, which is attached to the jacket in the Iunuit way, 



TRACES OF THE LOST MAN ON A BEHG. 2o5 

and listened. I asked Johnston if he had heard any thing. He 
answered nay ; adding, he thought it only my imagination. I 
saw that my companion was getting exhausted. Ilere we were 
far from the vessel, the sun sinking lower and lower, and the cold 
increasing. 

" Somehow I felt that, upon the return of the three who left us 
a little after two o'clock, the captain would send out a native 
with kummitie (sledge) and dogs, suitably provided to co-operate 
with me in keeping up the search. I regretted, indeed, that I had 
not sent word by Morgan for the captain to do this. It would 
be an easy matter to find us, as the tracks of the three would lead 
to ours, whence we could be traced. 

"Fifteen minutes after 4 P.M. the tracks of John turned south. 
Johnston had said he would continue with me till we should reach 
the coast on the west side of Field Bay, if John's track should con- 
tinue there. Now they turned from the vessel south. Here, for 
the first time, I solicited him to go with me as far as a point of 
land toward which we were headed. Lie acquiesced. Passing 
two miles south, a magnificent mountain of ice — an iceberg — 
stood a little way to the left. As we came in line with it — the 
berg bearing east — we found the footprints of John Brown square- 
iy turned toward it. At any other time, how I should have en- 
joyed the sight before me — a pile of alabaster, pinnacled as no 
human mind could design or human art execute — here and there 
a covering of cream color, the side facing the descending sun re- 
flecting dazzling prismatic colors. To this, in the darkness of 
night, John had directed his steps. As we arrived at its base, we 
found that this berg was evidently grounded, the ice between it 
and the sea-ice being in fragments, from the rise and fall of the 
tides. We feared we might find that poor John had lost his life 
about this berg, for his tracks showed that he had ventured where 
no man by daylight would dare put his foot. One place gave pal- 
pable evidence where he had followed around to the south side and 
there fallen in. But from this he had extricated himself, and con- 
tinued around to 'the east side, where he again ventured. From 
appearances, I thought John in search of some place where he 
could be protected from the wind and cold, where he could sleep. 
He passed across the dangerous broken ice floating amid sea wa- 
ter on to a tongue of the berg. He walked along a little cove 
that was roofed by overhanging ice ; he finds no safe place there. 
But where are his outward steps? For a while we thought it ccr- 



236 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

tain that John was cither in some of the recesses of this vast berg, 
or had made a false step, and gone down into the deep. Passing 
northerly, I finally descried returning tracks. He had made a 
fearful, desperate leap from a shelving alcove to the main or sea- 
ice, and thence, after passing a few rods east, he tivrned again to 
his course south, which he had pursued before turning to the berg. 

"It was now half past 4 P.M. On we continued, though the 
steps of my companion were growing moderate. Down again we 
threw ourselves flat upon the ice. While we were thus resting 
listlessly, Johnston cried out, 'Hark! I do hear the dogs.' No 
sooner had he spoken this than the driver's cry came to our ear?. 
We jumped up — looked away to the northeast. Thank God ! Cap- 
tain Budington has sent us help. New life was ours. Kummitie 
and dogs, and two co-helpers, are fast approaching. I can not ex- 
press the thankful joyfulness of heart I felt, even in the still doubt- 
ful issue of our search. Still on and on, to the south, we followed 
John's tracks. As I knew Johnston would soon be overtaken, I 
quickened my steps, and soon left him far behind. I turned a 
few minutes after, and who hailed me ? My noble friend the cap- 
tain himself. Now I felt sure we should not return till the fate 

of the lost man should be determined. Captain B bid me 

make my way to the sledge, for he knew I must be very much 
fatigued. He required the Innuit Charley, the dog-driver, to take 
my place in tracking. It was a relief to me and Johnston that 
we received this assistance just as we did. 

" Captain B had set out a little past two, immediately on 

seeing the return of the major part of the company of five. He 
had visited Look-out Island, and with his ' spy' had watched our 
movements. He directed his course to the returning party ; fol- 
lowed their tracks, on meeting them, to the place where we part- 
ed, thence followed oui-s — which, of course, were the circuitous, 
serpentine, and angular one of 'the lost' — until, with his sharp 
eyes, he sighted as, when he struck a direct course. When Cap- 
tain B overtook me it wanted five minutes of 5 o'clock. A 

few moments brought us to a recess in the coast near the point 
which, according to Johnston's promise, was to terminate his far- 
ther search with me. 

"John's tracks showed that he had endeavored to make land. 
I left the sledge, and, with Charley, followed them up, while Cap- 
tain B and Johnston awaited our determination of the course 

John had finally taken. John, we found, had endeavored to mount 



THE LOST FOUND— FKOZEN DEAD. 237 

the shore, but the high, perpendicular walls of ice thrown up by 
the ever-changing tide would not admit of his accomplishing the 
undertaking. 

" From behind these ice barriers the edges of sombre rocks 
peered through. Johnston was deceived thereby at one particu- 
lar spot, and exclaimed, ' There he is ! There ! do you see ?* 
pointing excitedly to the point indicated. For a few moments all 
eyes were strained; but sighting showed that John's tracks led 
easterly, and then south, around the spit of land, on the ice. 
Again we followed on for half a mile, when we were led into a 
cove that was terminated by a high rock bluff. LTere the ice be- 
came rough. Captain B ■ and myself were on the sledge, 

while Charley and Johnston kept directly upon the track. From 
the bottom or extreme line of the cove that made up to the base 
of the indicated bluff sprung out another spit, which swept around 
a little way to the south, its southern side being limited by the 
channel* through which we passed last fall with the Rescue, up 
into the bay, where we made anchorage while we visited Frobish- 
er Bay. As the tracks of the lost led up into this recess, Captain 

B and myself thought that John had made his way up into 

it for the purpose of passing directly across the neck of the penin- 
sula instead of going around it. 

" Charley- and Johnston thought it best to continue on his track. 

while Captain B and myself concluded to pass on with the 

dogs and kummitie till we should reach the place where John 
would probably make the ice on the other side. The distance 
around, we thought, could be but trifling. Before we had passed 
out of sight of the track followers, we heard the loud but mourn- 
ful toned voice of the Innuit Charley. We checked the dogs, 
turned them back, and thence followed up. Our eyes were watch- 
ing intensely each movement, each step of Charley. All at once 
he stopped, then threw up his' arms and hands, letting them fall 
slowly, droopingly. 

" It needed no other language than what we saw in the motions 
of this noble-hearted Innuit to tell us the terrible termination of 
this day's search. 

" Charley and Johnston turned to meet Captain B and my- 
self. Said they, ' We've found him, and fear he is dead.' Neither 
pproached nearer than within half a dozen rods of him 

* In this idea, at the time, I was mistaken. The channel (lending to Chapelt 
Inlet) is full five miles more to the southward of French Head. 1'iV/c Chart. 



238 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



whom we had so long sought. I flew as fast as my limbs would 
carry me. A few moments found me grasping his arm. It was 
as cold and rigid as the monuments of ice around us ! 

" Deep silence reigned for a while, as our little company of four 
stood around the frozen body of John Brown. There, in the 
midst of the little circle, lay the form of him who was lost, but 
now found. But oh, what a finding! Spare me from the like 
again ! 




IIIF. LOST FO0M> — FltOZE.N DEAD. 



" I had hoped to find the lost man — to have become a guide to 
him — to have given hope to the despairing — to have saved human 
life ; and yet how thankful I felt that his fate had been truthful- 
ly determined. 

" Evidently, from his tracks and the rigidness of his limbs, John 
had died some time in the morning. From the iceberg for a dis- 
tance of two miles the footprints were quite fresh compared with 
the tracks we had seen leading to it. It is quite likely that in 
the covered shelving of the iceberg, whither he made his way so 
desperately, he spent some of his time in resting — perhaps sleep- 
ing. It was almost a sleep of death, for his tracks indicated fee- 



THE GRAVE AND MONUMENT OF JOHN BROWN. 239 

bleness — almost a blindness. Two rods before reaching the final 
spot of his death, we found where he had fallen down as he walk- 
ed along, the disturbed snow showing that great effort had been 
made to regain his walking posture. The place where we found 
him also exhibited unmistakable signs of a terrible struggle to 
raise himself up again ; but alas ! a foe as irresistible as iron had 
been fastening his fingers upon him all the night long. John had 
fought like a true soldier — like a hero ; but he had to yield at last. 
lie died facing the heavens, the left hand by his side, the right 
extended, and his eyes directed upward, as if the last objects mir- 
rored by them were the stars looking down upon him in his 
death-struggles. His face bore evidence that his death was like 
sweet sleep. 

"Every article of John's clothing was in its place — his hands 
mittened — his head, ears, and nose protected as well as they could 
be by a Russian cap — his feet shielded by native boots and stock- 
ings, and his body well clothed in woolen garments, over which 
was his sealskin jacket. 

" Well, we found the lost, determined his terrible fate, and now 
what remained to be done? 

"We considered it imprudent for us to attempt to convey the 
remains back to the vessel ; we thought it our duty to show all 
becoming respect for the dead, and equally our duty to guard 
well the living against the exposures that threatened us on our 
return, for it was now 5 o'clock P.M., and we were full ten miles 
by direct route from the ship. 

"Captain B and myself concluded to make his grave 

ashore, at the base of a noble mountain bluff or headland, that 
would stand forever as the monument of the deceased. But it 
was soon found that not a stone could be moved. We then de- 
cided to make his grave upon the ice, on the very spot where he 
died, covering his form with the unspotted ice and snow that lay 
in profusion around. This sad duty was performed with weeping 
hearts. When all was completed, with reverential awe of the 
God of the heavens and the earth, we bent over the grave of our 
friend, and shed the tears of mourning, tempered with the hope 
that ' now it is better with thy spirit !' 

" With slow steps we moved from this toward the dogs and 
sledge, by which we were to travel for hours to our quarters. It 
was half past five when we left the grave of John Brown. Our 
team of twelve dogs made rapid progress some of the way, while 



240 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

at times there seemed to be a ' bugging' of the sledge-shoes to the 
snow tbat made the draught very heavy. We bad some earnest 
work to do to keep ourselves from freezing. Every now and 

then we took turns in jumping off and running. Captain B 

had unfortunately ventured out with a pair of civilization boots, 
having found his native ones too small. On the return passage 
he got Johnston to pull off one of his boots, as be found one foot 
freezing. This simple, cpiick act of pulling off the captain's boot 
(with unmittened hand) gave Johnston a pile of frozen fingers. 
Half a dozen times Johnston's nose was frozen, and as often I 
rubbed it into order. I took the precaution of keeping myself in 
active exercise by running along beside the sledge for more than 
half of the way home. The thermometer was down to 59° below 
the freezing point, with a fresh wind from the northwest. Thus 
we had severe battling to do to keep from becoming subjects of 
King Cold. 

" Every now and then I threw myself flat on the sledge, there 
keeping myself well to the leeward of Captain B and the ex- 
cellent dog-driver Charley. I then, with face upturned, could see 
the workings of the Almighty in the heavens above. The aurora 
was spanning the blue vault, painting in beauteous colors that 
part of the sky which seemingly overhung the ever-to-be-remem- 
bered spot where we had bid adieu to the remains of our friend, 
John Brown. 

" What think you, my friends, were my thoughts, as I lay with 
my eyes looking above — the glory of God's creation shining upon 
me — as I was swiftly carried along, with the consciousness in mj- 
breast of having performed, on this holy da}', simply my duty — 
the duty of man to man ? 

"As we neared the vessel, groups of anxious friends came out 
to meet us. How they peered among our number — all four of 
us upon the sledge — to see if John Brown was among our com- 
pany ! None of us could speak. It was like a funeral train. 

"A voice from one, trembling between hope and fear, asked, 
as we drove alongside the George Henry, ' Tell us, did you find 
him ?' ' Yes,' I replied. ' Was he dead ?' continued the same 
voice. ' You have it ; alas ! it is too true,' was my answer. 

"Now the terrible news flew from one to another — from fore- 
castle to steerage, all exclaiming, 'How sad — how terrible an 
end!' 

"Having partaken of refreshments, and exchanged my native 



CONCLUSION OF THE SEAKCII. 241 

skin-dress — which "was wringing wet with my profuse perspira- 
tion of the day — for my civilization clothes, which I wear only 
when about the ship, I had to relate all the incidents connected 
with my search to the company around. 

" I was sorry to find every one who had been out engaging ac- 
tively in the search completely used up. The three from whom 
I parted a little after 2 P.M. did not get to the vessel until near 

six. 

******* 

"The distance traveled yesterday was full fifty-one English 
miles, a feat at which I myself am surprised. 

" On reaching the vessel about 9 o'clock at night, we found 
there had been an arrival of Innuits (seven in number) on two 
sledges, with dogs, from Frobisher Bay settlement. They brought 
along a portion of the walrus deposited by Charley and Koojesse 
on the other side of the land that lies between us and Frobisher 
Bav. 

J 

"These Innuits also brought the dog which the unfortunate 
Brown took with him as a guide. They met the dog out on Fro- 
bisher Bay, returning toward the igloos. It had on simply the 
harness without the draught-trace, which, to all appearance, had 
been cut with a knife close up to the harness. This dog is a 
young black one, and was not suitable as a guide. Had Brown 
taken either of the others (he had his choice), he would have been 
conducted safely to the vessel. But he felt sure he knew the way. 
How fatal that assurance has proved to him ! 

" Bruce, the companion of Brown, arrived with the party of In- 
nuits last evening (5 P.M.). When coming, he was pushing on 
ahead of the party, and saw, in the distance before him, a black 
creature which he took to be a bear. He turned upon his heel, 
and ran as fast as his legs would carry him back to the advancing 
sledge party, crying to them vociferously to ' ki-ete 1 (hasten toward 
him), as a bear was after him. It proved to be the young, docile 

black dog of Captain B 's which John had taken as his guide 

to the vessel. The draught-string of ookgook skin (large seal- 
skin) had, without doubt, been used by John to fasten around his 
kum-ings (native boots), to keep them properly on his feet. We 
noticed, when we found him last evening, that his feet-gear had 
apparently just received the addition of new thongs. His tracks 
showed that his kum-ings had a tendency to slip down, and to 
make him slipshod. 

Q 



242 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

"The natives brought the dog along with them. As they came 
across the land, when near Field Bay they found where this black 
dog had lain down to sleep, and found also that, as he rose, he 
walked around in circles, then struck westward, instead of the di- 
rection of the vessel. This certainly shows that the dog had not 
answered the purpose as guide to poor John. 

"How unfortunate this young man, John Brown, has been in 
this matter ! Had he listened to the advice of either Captain 

B or his own companion, or to the warnings of the two In- 

nuits, Charley and Koojesse, this sad end of his life which I now 
record would not have been made. 

" His age, I understand, was eighteen at the time of his death. 
His parents reside in France. 

" '-Requiescal in pace.' 1 " 




rAimr.LiA, on mook suns, 
tia seen at Field Buy, March 14, 1S61. ■ 









THE ESQUIMAUX SEAL-DOG. 243 



CHAPTEE XIV. 

Visited by more Innuits. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — The Seal-dog. — Perils on 
[he Ice. — Innuits carried out to Sea. — Starvation. — Dogs eaten. — Three Months 
away from Land. — Return of the Party, mere Skeletons. — Thrilling Incidents. — 
An Innuit carried down by a Whale and afterward saved. — A Man's Leg snap- 
ped off. — Suzhi's Husband killed by an Avalanche. — Incidents of White Men's 
Perils and Escapes. — Kindness of the Natives. — Another Man nearly frozen to 
Death. — Heavy Snow-storm. — Dauger to Mate Rogers and his Innuit Guide.— 
Dog Barbekark saves them. — Commencement of Spring. — Author's Occupations. 
— Makes some Instruments for his Use in exploring. — Plans. — Strange Informa- 
tion gathered from the Natives. — Tradition concerning White Men. — Frobisher's 
Expedition. 

For several days after the search which was made for poor 
Brown on the 17th of March, I was much troubled with boils, the 
result of eating the ship's salt meats, which caused great prostra- 
tion, and rendered me unable to do any thing but take a few ob- 
servations and register the weather. It was noticed by every one 
that I had considerably decreased in weight; indeed, my whole 
frame showed signs of hard usage, and that I was getting emaci- 
ated ; but, having a good constitution, I soon recruited, and after 
a short period of rest I was able to get about my work again. 

On the 20th of March several of our Innuit friends arrived 
from various places where they had been hunting and sealing, 
thus striving to find means of subsistence. 

The Innuits are, as I have frequently said, most persevering 
sealers, and will go, with their dogs, even in the very coldest of 
weather, and under most dangerous circumstances, to hunt for 
seal-holes. The sagacious dog, on snuffing the air and finding it 
charged with seal odor, follows it to the windward till lie leads 
his master to the very spot where a seal has its hole. The man 
then proceeds prospecting with his spear through one to three feet 
depth of snow, until he finds the small opening in the ice leading 
to the main seal-hole. The hole found, the long spindle shank of 
the spear is withdrawn, carefully avoiding all disturbance of the 
snow. Then the sealer remains silently and patiently listening 
for a seal's "blow." 

On hearing the second or third "puff," the spear is forcibly 



244 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



struck through the snow to the seal-hole, the harpoon penetrating 
the unseen seal's head. The seal instantly dives, and runs out the 




AN ESQUIMAUX AND 1318 6EAL-DOG. 



full length, say six to ten fathoms, of the line that connects the har- 
poon to the harpooner. The seal's breathing-hole is then "un- 
snowed" and enlarged to the size of the main, when the prize is 
drawn forth. 

Thus seal-holes are found and seals captured during the long 
winters of the North. 

Among the Innuits just referred to as now arrived were Ugarng, 
Ebierbing, and Tookoolito ; and I was glad to find them well, 
though the latter two had suffered considerably since I had been 
with them. 

Tookoolito informed me that a short time after my departure 
from Cornelius Grinnell Bay, the Innuit " Jack," while out seal- 
ing, had nearly lost his life by falling through the ice into the 
swiftly-running tide. He only saved himself by catching his chin 
on to the edge of some firm ice just as the current was sweeping 



INNUITS DRIFTED TO SEA ON ICE. 245 

him under, but his gun, powder, and every thing else belonging 
to him was carried away. She also told me that the angeko, 
whom I have formerly mentioned as being so lazy, had, with his 
two wives and this same "Jack," nearly perished b}' being driven 
out to sea on some ice that broke away. They had gone on a 
sealing excursion several miles up the coast, northerly and east- 
erly of where I had spent my time during the trip of January and 
February. All at once the ice on which they were became de- 
tached, and away they drifted to sea. In a few days wind and 
tide set the floe back again, and thus they escaped a terrible 
death. 

Ebierbing related to me several incidents of the fearful expo- 
sure of his Innuit friends, who had, at various times, been swept 
away from land on the sea-ice. 

In the winter of 1859, the Innuit "Sampson" and a party of 
fifteen others, were out walrus hunting on the ice in Frobisher 
Bay, when a gale came on, and drove the ice out to sea. Escape 
was impossible. On and on the ice moved. The despairing In- 
nuits erected an igloo, and then awaited their fate. The cold was 
so terribly severe that most of the dogs perished. Two survived 
for some time, but had finally to be eaten as food. Thus for 
thirty days the Innuits continued, until at length the ice upon 
which they were floating united to some near the land, and they 
were enabled to reach an island in the bay. Thence they got 
upon the main shore, and returned to their families alive, but such 
skeletons in form that they were hardly recognizable by their 
friends. One of the party, from weakness, had fallen into the sea, 
but was taken out again, his garments immediately freezing hard 
Upon him. The Innuits Sharkey, Kop-e-o, whom I called "Dick,'' 
and most of those now at the lower village, were of this com- 
pany. 

Another incident mentioned to me was that a party of Innuits 
a few years ago went out on the sea-ice walrus hunting, and, be- 
ing driven away from land, were unable to reach it for three 
months ! Fortunately for them, however, they did not suffer as 
the others had done. "Walruses were caught, and thus they were 
enabled to exist 

Not a winter passes but similar occurrences take place among 
the Innuits. Indeed, during our stay in Rescue Harbor several 
persons were carried away on the ice, but in a day or two after- 
ward succeeded in getting ashore again. 



24(3 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

i Numerous anecdotes of remarkable escapes were at different 
times related to me by the Innuits. One or two may be aptly 
brought forward here. The following was told me by Tookoo- 
lito. 

In the spring of 1857, a company of Esquimaux, natives of 
Northumberland Inlet, were far out on the floe, by open water, 
for the purpose of whaling. A whale was at length seen mov- 
ing leisurely along within striking distance, when the Esquimaux 
succeeded in making fast to it by four harpoons, each of which 
was fastened by a ten to fifteen fathom line of ookgook hide to a 
drug made of an uncut sealskin inflated like a life-preserver. 

By some incautious act of one of the harpooners, one of his legs 
became entangled in the line, and quick as thought the whale 
dragged him down into the sea out of sight. His companions 
were horror-stricken, and for a while all around was still as death. 
The whole party earnestly peered out upon the blue waters far 
and near, looking for the reappearance of their comrade. The}- 
paced to and fro ; when at last a shout came from one of their 
number — "The lost is found!" — which brought all to one spot. 

The circumstance that led to this fortunate discovery was the 
sight simply of the finger-tips of one hand clinging to the top 
edge of the floe. The rescuers, on looking over the verge, found 
the almost dead man moving his lips, as if crying for aid, but his 
voice was gone ; not even a whisper responded to his most des- 
perate struggles to articulate. Another minute, it was certain, 
would have sealed his fate — an ocean grave. 

It seems that, on coming up from the "great deep," the unfor- 
tunate harpooner had attempted to draw himself on to the floe, 
but this he was too enfeebled to do. When this whale turned 
flukes, as it instantly did on being struck, it went down perpen- 
dicularly for soundings, as the Mysticetus (Greenland whale) gen- 
erally does. Its great speed, and the resistance of the "drug," 
with that of the drag of the victim's body, caused such a strain 
upon the line that it parted. On this very fortunate moment the 
buoyant " drug" shot upward like an arrow, bringing with it its 
precious freight — a living soul. A few weeks after, this same 
whale, with the four harpoons fast to it, was found in drift ice 
dead. The Esquimaux state that whenever a harpoon penetrates 
to the flesh of the whale, it will surely die. Harpoons struck into 
the blubber, and remaining there, will not prove fatal ; it is only 
so when it goes through the blubber into the " krang" (flesh). 



INCIDENTS OF PERILS AND ESCAPES. 247 

Another incident, but of a most fatal character, occurred not 
many years ago in Field Bay. A party of Innuits were out in 
two oo-mi-ens (large skin boats) when a whale was struck. The 
line, in running out, whipped around a leg of the harpooner, in- 
stantly tearing it from the body at the hip-joint ! The shock capsized 
the boat and all that were therein. The sea all around the vic- 
tim became thick with oitg (blood). A landing was early sought 
and effected, but the poor creature soon died. 

The following sad accident was also related to me : Koo-ou-le- 
arng's wing-a (husband) was killed, when Ebierbing was a boy, 
at Kingaite, in Northumberland Inlet. Lie was out sealing near 
the base of the high land (Kingaite signifies high land), when an 
avalanche of snow came suddenly upon him, not only overwhelm- 
ing him, but a large extent of ice, carrying it and him down, far 
down into the sea. Being missed, he was tracked to the fatal 
spot, but no other traces of him were ever discovered. 

While on this subject I may as well relate one or two occur- 
rences narrated to me by whaling captains, which show that white 
men often do go through seven perils, and endure the same sort 
of life as the Esquimaux. 

Captain Sisson, on one occasion, told me of a shipwreck that 
occurred in September, 1853, forty miles north of Cape East, in 
Kamtschatka. The crew were obliged to remain about eleven 
months on shore, living among the natives in a perfectly helpless 
condition, and without any thing of value. Yet they were well 
treated, and soon acquired the habits of the natives, eating the 
same food, and living in the same manner ; and finally, without 
the loss of a man, came away quite fat and healthy. 

Again, another case may be mentioned as reported to me. In 
the fall of 1851, Captain Quayle, of the M-CUb/wl, whaler, from 
New London, entered a harbor in Northumberland Inlet, but, 
not meeting with success, it was proposed that some of the ship's 
company should winter there with a view to commence whaling 
in the spring, if that should be practicable. The first mate, now 
Captain S. 0. Budington, and W. Sterry, with ten other volun- 
teers, agreed to do so. Except the first officer, the whole were 
single young men. 

The understanding was that the McClelland should return for 
them by the next July ; and meanwhile provisions, two boats, 
and various other effects, were placed on shore for their use. 

The twelve men now went to work to make preparation for 



248 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

their stay. A house was built of stone, filling in the walls with 
turf, and snow on the outside, making a total thickness of six feet. 
The roof was made of sealskins sewed together and placed on 
poles. For a window, which was in the roof, intestines of the 
whale answered well. The stove served for cooking and heating, 
and coal had been left for fuel ; but this becoming exhausted by 
the end of December, an admirable substitute was found in some 
skeletons of whales, which were discovered frozen in the ice some 
thirty miles distant, and were transported to the house by means 
of dogs and sledges. The bone burned well, being full of oil, and 
it was easily cut up with an axe. 

An incident connected with the transport of this bone is wor- 
thy of record. One day in February, a younger brother of Cap- 
tain Quayle, with a companion, set out for the bone depot on a 
dog-sledge. On their return a furious snow-storm came on, and 
the dogs, as well as the men, lost their way. Darkness over- 
taking them, they determined to rest till morning under the lee 
of an island, but during the whole night it was a terrible battle 
for life. The only salvation for them was in pounding each other, 
wrestling, tumbling, kicking, etc. Occasionally the " death-sleep" 
would be found creeping over them, when all their strength and 
resolution were called into action in the manner just described. 
The next day they arrived in safety at the house. 

The stock of provisions left with the party was exhausted be- 
fore any ship arrived, but whale-meat, seals, venison, and ducks 
were found in abundance. The natives also were very kind, 
sharing with them whatever game they found. Thus they lived 
until September, 1852, when Captain Parker, in an English whaler, 
took them away. 

On March 27th another man came near being frozen to death. 
Strangely enough, it was Bruce, the very companion of the unfor- 
tunate Brown ! 

It appeared that Bruce, who was still under attacks of scurvy, 
had again gone to the Innuit settlement at Oopungnewing, but 
one morning suddenly determined upon returning to the ship. 
Esquimaux "Bob," with whom he was staying, insisted upon his 
remaining that day, as the weather was too bad. But no ; Bruce 
would go, and at once started off alone. 

Seeing that the white man was apparently bent on his own de- 
struction, or did not know what he was about, the dark-skinned 
but spotless-hearted and noble-minded Esquimaux " Bob," being 



SEVERE EFFECTS OF A SNOW-STORM. 249 

himself unable to leave, engaged an Innuit woman, whom we call- 
ed Bran Neiu, to accompany Bruce. The good creature readily 
did so, and by her means (as Bruce admitted) he was enabled to 
reach the vessel in safety. 

Another circumstance occurred, which, though not very seri- 
ous in results, might have proved so, had it not been for my dog 
Barbekark. 

On the 28 th of March Mate Eogers started for the whaling 
depot in Frobisher Bay. He had with him sundry articles re- 
quired for spring operations, and a sledge and dogs, driven by 
Koojesse. Among the dogs was my Greenlander, Barbekark. 

They left at 6 A.M., the weather then moderate ; but at noon 
it was blowing a hard gale from the northeast, with thick-falling 
snow, which continued during the day. 

At half past nine in the evening one of the ship's officers, Mr. 
Lamb, going upon deck, heard the cry of dogs, and soon found 
that Mr. Bogers was returning. In a few moments, to our aston- 
ishment, for the gale was severe, he and Koojesse, with the sledge, 
arrived alongside, and soon afterward the mate was down in the 
cabin, but so completely overpowered by exhaustion that he could 
hardly speak. His face was the only spot, in appearance, human 
about him, and even this was covered with snow-wreaths pelted 
at him by the ruthless storm. 

After sufficient time for restoration, he related the incidents of 
the past fifteen hours. It appears that, as they passed from Chap- 
ell Inlet to Field Bay, at about 1 o'clock P.M., it blew quite a gale, 
and the air was so filled with snow that they could hardly see the 
dogs before them. Here Koojesse advised that they should build 
an igloo, and remain in it until the end of the gale, but Mr. Rog- 
ers thought it better they should return home to Bescue Harbor, 
after resting a few minutes, and refreshing themselves with some 
snow-water. This, with some difficulty, they obtained, and at two 
they started back for the vessel. 

At first they got on pretty well as far as Parker's Bay, keep- 
ing the ridge of mountains running southeast and northwest on 
their left, and within sight. On reaching Parker's Bay, they then 
struck across the ice toward the ship. This was almost fatal to 
them. Esquimaux dogs arc often unmanageable when it is at- 
tempted to force them in the teeth of a storm, and so it proved 
now. The leader of the team, a dog belonging to the Innuit 
Charley, lost his way, and confused all the rest. The snow-storm 



250 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

was upon them in all its fury, and men, as well as dogs, were be- 
coming blinded. Presently the leading dog directed the team to- 
ward some islands near the head of the bay ; but, on approach- 
ing them, it was seen that Barbekark was struggling to make a 
different route, and these islands convinced the two human minds 
that dog sagacity, when known to be true, was best when left to 
itself in such emergencies. Accordingly, Barbekark was allowed 
to have his own way, and in a short time he led them direct to 
the ship. 

I asked Mr. Bogers what they had intended to do if the vessel 
could not be found. His reply was, that when it became dark, 
Koojesse had once proposed to stop for the night on the ice, and, 
to insure as much safety as possible, they were to throw them- 
selves among the dogs, cover themselves with the two bearskins 
they had, and thus try to preserve life until daylight would help 
to show them where they were. 

The end of this adventure was, that Koojesse remained so far 
blind for days that he could not see to do any thing; and Mr. 
Bogers's face, in its uncovered portions, had actually turned to a 
deep dark red, while the shielded parts were perfectly white, 
thus showing what contrasts these Northern storms can paint in 
one short day. 

A lesson to be gathered from this, as I then thought, and still 
believe, is to allow the natives to do what they consider best in 
such times. They thoroughly understand the way to prepare for 
and withstand the warring elements of their own regions, and it 
is well for white men always to heed their advice, however unrea- 
sonable it may seem to be at the time. 

On the 8th of April the cooking apparatus and other material 
were moved up from below, where they had been during the 
whole winter, and thus what we might call symptoms of spring 
(though there is no real spring in those regions) presented them- 
selves. But here a few extracts from m} r diary at this time may 
be suitable. 

"April 8th, 1861. This P.M. the party of eight which left the 
George Henry last Sunday for Frobisher Bay, to trade for walrus 
meat, returned. They were accompanied by the Innuit Sharkey, 
a man as dark -colored as a negro. A large quantity of walrus 
meat was obtained, which furnished us with abundant fresh food 
for ourselves, and plenty for the dogs. To-day we had venison 
for dinner. 



MARTIN FKOBISHER'S EXPEDITIONS OF 1576-8. 251 

The First Traditionary History gained from the Esquimaux relative 
to Frobisher 1 s Expediti . 
About the 1st of April, 1861, there was quite an intelligent 
Esquimaux, named Koojesse, in the neighborhood where I was 
(Rescue Harbor), who occasionally, in his communications, made- 
reference, in a vague way, to a certain matter which at first exci- 
ted but little of my attention, and yet, in the sequel, it will be seen 
that it related to what was of the most important character. I had 
several conversations with this Esquimaux in the presence of 
Captain Budington, who, being more proficient at that time than 
myself in the Innuit vernacular, assisted me as interpreter. 

This native spoke of a time long, long ago, when kod-lu-nas 
(white men) built a vessel on an island in the bay lower down 
(Frobisber Bay). Spoke also of brick (" milc-e-oo-hoo-loo oug," small 
red pieces), timber, chips, etc., as having been left there. 

The idea of a vessel having been built in those regions seemed 
too improbable to be entertained for a moment. So unreasonable 
did the story appear of constructing a ship in such a perfectly 
woodless country, that I thought it a waste of time and paper to 
make a record of it; therefore what transpired in the first two 
or three interviews with the Esquimaux Koojesse, in relation to 
this subject, is not in my original notes. Finally, in a few days, 
I began in my reflections to connect the Esquimaux report with 
the time when Martin Frobisber made his discoveries, and simul- 
taneously commenced to make record of whatever was stated to 
me in subsequent interviews. 

The commencement of said notes is under date of April 9th, 
1861. I now extract them from my original journal, as made im- 
mediately after an interview with the Esquimaux Koojesse on 
the P.M. of same date : 

" Among the traditions handed down from one generation to 
another, there is this: that many — very many years ago, some 
white men built a ship on one of the islands of Frobisher Bay, 
and went away. 

" I think I can see through this in this way : Frobisher, in 1578, 
assembled a large part of his fleet in what he called ' Countess of 
Warwick Sound' (said to be in that bay below us), when a coun- 
cil was held on the 1st of August, at which it was determined to 
send all persons and things on shore upon 'Countess of Warwick- 
Island ;' and on August 2d orders were proclaimed, by sound of 



252 - ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

trumpet, for the guidance of the company during their abode 
thereon. For reasons stated in the history, the company did not 
tarry here long, but departed for i Meta Incognita? and thence to 
England. 

" Now, may not the fact of timbers, chips, etc., etc., having been 
found on one of the islands (within a day's journey of here) many 
years ago, prove that the said materials were of this Frobisher's 
company, and that hence the Innuit tradition ? 

"In a few days I hope to be exploring Frobisher Bay. I may 
thereafter have something to add to the matter above referred to." 
I now turn to other matters in my journal. 

"April 9lh. As I write, the main cabin table of the ship is sur- 
rounded by natives playing dominoes. There are Ebierbing, Miner 
and his wife, Charley and wife, and Jim Crow with his wife. 

" The gale of to-day has been terrific. One would have to con- 
test sharply with the elements in order to breathe, if outside of the 
cabin for a moment. In the afternoon an alarm was raised that 
Sharkey's wife had fallen down the forecastle steps and was dy- 
ing. It seems that in mounting the stairs leading therefrom with 
her semi-white child, she was taken with a fainting-fit, in which 
she fell. Though no bones were fractured, } r et she was so severe- 
ly injured that she has been in a critical condition ever since, and 
some of the time unconscious. 

"April 10th. This day Sterry left for Frobisher Bay settlement, 
to remain a while among the natives. Parties are now very oft- 
en going backward and forward, conveying ship's material to the 
intended whaling depot at Cape True.* In the evening there 
was another magnificent display of the aurora. At 9 o'clock a 
long line or arch, extending from the west to the east, began to 
rise from the horizon. I noticed a peculiarity of this night's dis- 
play worthy of record. When the centre of the auroral arch had 
risen about three degrees above the horizon, a long line of narrow 
black clouds rested parallel with the base of the aurora. Slow- 
ly the arch mounted the heavens, the clouds all this time becom- 
ing less and less black, until they were finally exhausted. The 
clouds were as dark as ' thunder-clouds' when I first saw them. 
In half an hour the stars shone brightly where they had been. 
They seemed to follow upward as the arch lifted. When the arch 
became elevated 25°, other belts of aurora sprang into action, so 

* So named after Benjamin C. True, of Cincinnati, Ohio. Cape True is in lat. 
02° 33' N., long. 64° 55' W. 



TRIP Ui' BUDINGTON MOUNT. 253 

that there was a sight worth the admiration of beings even supe- 
rior to man ! 

"To-day I have purchased of the captain the chronometer 
that had belonged to the Rescue. I intend to make record of all 
the observations I take, leaving most of them to be worked up on 
my return home. Some undoubtedly will prove to be erroneous ; 
but / shall do what I can to make all my observations reliable. 
There is nothing that has weighed more heavily upon me than 
the want of a good time-piece. When I make my journey west- 
ward and northward to King William's Land, I shall require the 
chronometer. Indeed, I need it in my journey up Frobisher Bay 
this spring. I am anxious to perform work that shall redound 
to the credit of those who have so generously, so nobly assisted 
me in my outfit for the voyage I am making here in the North. 
God giving me health and help in the prosecution of my work, 
I will do my duty as a geographer and a humanitarian. 

"April 12///. This morning is gloriously fine. I must do out- 
door work to-day. I will off' for a trip up Budington Mount, and 
from its peak take some angles and bearings of prominent places 
around and about the bay. * * * * Just returned, and a 
fine time I have had of it. It was, however, dangerous business 
going up the mountain's steep, icy, and hard, snow-covered sides, 
but it was even worse coming doivn. Any one who is experi- 
enced in mountain excursions, especially in these regions, must 
know that the latter is far more difficult than the former. 

" When at the summit it was very interesting. I had an In- 
nuit companion with me, and, while I took my observations, he 
slept on a bed of snow, and seemed as comfortable as any white 
man on a bed of down. As we descended, he made steps for us 
with a long, sharp stone which he had picked up for the purpose ; 
but even then we had to exercise great caution. A mishap might 
have endangered our lives, and also my instruments. 

" To-night the aurora is beautiful as usual. Its rays shoot up 
somewhat more dome-like than before. It extends northwest 
around to the south, and thence to the east. How many are the 
times I am blessed with the sight of this phenomenon. Its 
changes are constantly going on. I never see it twice alike. 
Every moment the scene changes. In bright disorder, the heav- 
ens are almost nightly painted with the blaze of this incompara- 
ble, incomprehensible light. As its brightness oft is mirrored by 
my eyes .and soul, I often feel that I am truly 

" 'Arrayed in glory and enthroned in light.' 



254 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

" Eleven o'clock, night, A few minutes ago I came from deck. 
The aurora then spanned the heavens near to the zenith ; a few- 
minutes later — I have just been on deck again — all is gone ; not a 
beam any where visible. The stars have it now all to themselves, 
Jupiter bearing the palm, as be outshines them all. 

"April loth. Have had a long tramp to-day round the head of 
Field Bay, triangulating and making observations. Koojesse ac- 
companied me for a while, but the charms of scaling soon took 
him away, and some time afterward, when I was on a mountain 
peak, I saw him at a distance, b}< the aid of my glass, most unmer- 
cifulty punishing his dog, probably because the poor animal could 
not find a seal igloo. The Inuuits, when they do punish dogs, 
beat them cruelly. 

" April Villi. Yesterday I took my first lunar observation. I 
did it alone, expecting only to obtain an approximation to the 
true longitude of this place. To-day I have taken another, with 
assistants to measure altitudes at the same time. 

" I have had equally unexpected success in making some of my 
own instruments. Being without a protractor, I made one, the 
other day, from a piece of copper which had formed a portion of 
the Rescue's sheathing; and this served a double purpose, being 
useful in my chart- work, and also remaining as a relic of the once 
memorable expedition schooner. Another instrument I had also 
to make, and succeeded in making, though it occupied much time, 
namely, an artificial horizon. I constructed it with various con- 
trivances of my own, and now I have both these instruments by 
me as pleasing mementoes of my sojourn in these dreary regions, 
where no stores exist to supply me with articles so indispensable. 

"April 19lh. To-day I was not a little amused to see the rig in 
which the laughing Innuit Sharkey appeared. A present was 
made him of a new wool shirt, edged all around, except the flaps, 
with scarlet — bright flaming red. He proudly strutted around 
among us white folk with this on the outside of all his other 
clothes, wearing it like a frock! 

"April 20lh. To-day the snow embankment around the ship 
has been taken away, and the crew are busy putting the vessel in 
complete order for service. Paint and varnish are now freely 
used in the process of renovation. 

"April 21st. I am preparing to go over to-morrow to the Innu- 
it settlement on Frobisher Bay, intending to explore around the 
waters mapped out by the geographers as Frobisher Strait. My 



PREPARE TO EXPLORE FROBISUER BAY. 255 

wish is to chart the lands around that place within the next 
mouth, and even to do much more. Koojesse has promised to go 
over with me if the weather will permit. 

"I have omitted to mention the 'spot' on the sun that I first 
saw on the 19th when taking observations. At the moment I 
thought it was a defect in my sextant glass, but afterward found 
it to be on the face of old Sol. 

<; Twenty minutes before midnight. I have just returned from deck 
entranced by the fires that are burning in the heavens ! A new 
play to-night by the aurora — at least so to me. Going up, I saw 
that the moon was struggling to penetrate, with her borrowed 
light, the white clouds that enshrouded her. Looking around, I 
found the heavens covered with petite dancers clothed in white. 
My powers of description of this peculiar appearance and work- 
ings of the aurora at this time are inadequate. There is no color 
in the aurora to-night ; it is simply white, like the world beneath 
it. 

•• Midnight I have been on deck again. I am now satisfied 
that I have occasionally seen the aurora during this month in the. 
daytime, when the sun was well up in its course and shining 
brightly. 

•• I now retire to my couch for some refreshing sleep, prepara- 
tory to making an effort in the morning for commencing the ex- 
ploration of Frobisher Bay." 



256 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XV. 

First Excursion in Frobisher Bay. — Crossing the Mountain Pass. — Traveling on the 
Ice. — A Tradition concerning White Men masting a Ship. — Arrival at Oopung- 
newing. — Annawa's Home. — Hospitable Reception. — Close Sleeping-quarters. — 
Ten Persons in a Bed. — Morning Walk. — The Innuit Village. — Twer-puk-ju-o. 
— Sterry living with the Natives. — Miner. — Charming a Seal. — Kokerjabin's Birth- 
place.- — Kingaite. — Karmowong. — Author adopts Innuit Life. — Trip along the 
Coast. — The "Ice-foot." — Summer Resting-places of the Innuits. — Sundry Arti- 
cles belonging to a wrecked Ship. — Ee-vic-toon. — Native Monuments. — Grandeur 
of Kingaite Mountains. — The Grinnell Glacier. — A fatiguing Journey. — Disap- 
pointed of a Night's Shelter. — Moonlight Traveling. — A poor Supper. — Thirst. — 
An impromptu Igloo. — A cold Bed. — Next Day's Journey. — Discover the Na- 
tives. — Sampson and his Family. — Kind Reception. — A Seal Hunt. — Feasting, — 
The Seal's Eyes given to youngest Child. — Knowledge coming to an Inquirer. — 
Tide entering the Igloos at Night. — Innuit Women's Mouths good Receptacles for 
cleansing Purposes. — Snow-storm. — Author accustomed to Innuit Food. — How it 
is eaten. — Seal's Brains and Entrails. — Author becomes an Angeko. — Return 
Journey. — Laughable Incident. — A tight Fit. — Curious Mountain Mark. — Abun- 
dance of Animal Life. — Arrival at Twerpukjua and at Annawa's. — An animated 
Sunday Picture. — Return on Foot to the Ship. — Arrival. 

On Monday morning, April 22d, 1861, at half past 10 o'clock, 
I started on my trip — the first yet made by me into Frobisher 
Bay. My guide and companion was Koojesse ; and as we should 
have to cross a neck of land between the two bays, thence travel 
on foot upon the ice, I could not carry much baggage. All, there- 
fore, that I took was the following : 

My native tuktoo jacket, pants, and mittens, an extra pair of 
native boots and stockings, my charts and chart material, protract- 
or, dividers, parallel and plain rule, artificial horizon, with bottle 
of mercury, a pocket sextant, azimuth compass and tripod, marine 
glass, thermometer, besides beads and several plugs of tobacco, for 
presents to the natives. With these articles pendent to a strap 
passing over my shoulders, across my breast, and down my back, 
I departed. 

Our course from the ship was westerly to the other side of 
Field Bay, where we struck the land, and met some of the natives 
with dogs and sledge, conveying walrus hide, meat, and blubber 
to the vessel. A couple more were also going thither to obtain 



BAYARD TAYLOR PASS. 257 

eye-water for Stcny, who was at that time living with some of 
the people near the island called Oopungnewing. From Field Bay 
our track was over the mountain pass much frequented by the 
natives. This pass, which I have named after Bayard Taylor, 
was, in some parts of it, very steep and fatiguing, but the scenery 
was grand and captivating. 

Half way on the route we stopped at a spring of delicious wa- 
ter, and there had our dinner. Thence we continued to ascend 
until reaching the summit of the pass. We then commenced our 
descent by following a course between high rocks, along a path 
that was, in one or two places, very steep. 

Presently, after passing through a magnificent gorge, we came 
on to a small inlet leading up from an arm of Countess of War- 
wick Sound. This we traversed for about an eighth of a mile, 
until, coming to an abrupt turn where a bold, bluff mountain was 
on either side, I caught sight of Frobisher Bay, and the mountains 
of Kingaite beyond. The view was, to me, quite exciting. The 
ice-covered bay, with the distant peaks of Mela Incognita, and the 
dark, abrupt cliffs at our side, seemed a glorious picture to one, 
like myself, beholding it for the first time. 

The sun was now descending, but the moon's silvery rays would 
serve to guide us on, therefore we hastened forward, though the 
distance was yet some miles to travel. In a short time more we 
were traversing the snow-wreaths that covered the bay-ice, and, as 
we passed on, Koojesse pointed out a place at our right which he 
said was where the " white men, a long time ago, had masted a 
ship ;" but this seemed so improbable that I did not at that time 
believe him. 

The island we were now going to was the one Annawa and 
his family went to at the time we escorted them part of the way 
the previous fall (see page 128), and we now intended to rest 
there for the night. But it was quite 9 P.M. before we arrived, 
and then some of the family were in bed. This, however, did not 
prevent our having a prompt and most friendly reception. The 
aged Annawa and all those with him quickly gave us food, and 
a prompt offer of hospitality for the night. They were all much 
rejoiced to see me, and, though there was no " spare bed," yet I 
was cordially invited to share theirs. Soon afterward, tired and 
sore with my long walk of near twenty miles over ice, mountain, 
and ice again, I retired to rest as best I could. 

That night my sleep was a sound one, though I was tightly 

R 



258 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

squeezed, the sleepers being numerous, and all in the same bed! 
There were nine of us, besides the infant at the breast — a boy 3i feet 
in height, of portly dimensions ! 

The order of our sleeping was as follows : Key-e-zhune, the 
wife of Annawa, lay in her place by the ik-ku-mer or fire-light, 
with " infant" Kvk-uk-jun between herself and her husband ; then 
next to him was the child Oo-suk-je ; I lay alongside of the child, 
Koojesse next to me ; then came Esh-ee-loo, with his wife Oong-a, 
all of us facing upward. Then, with feet at our faces, were a 
young man Innuit, and the little girl Kim-mi-loo, who lives with 
Annawa. 

The space in which the ten were compacted and interwoven 
was less than as many feet! Of course, I had to sleep in my day- 
dress, as no spare bed is kept in reserve for company, nor have 
they a tuktoo covering more than they need for the family ; but 
I got along through the night after a fashion. It was, however, 
not very pleasant. Whenever I attempted to turn to relieve my 
aching bones, a little boy by my side roared like a young lion, 
awaking all the sleepers, and thus a confusion followed that would 
have deprived me of farther slumber but for my great fatigue. 
However, the night passed on, and early in the morning I slipped 
out as a snake from his deciduous epidermis, and prepared myself 
for a walk. 

The igloo was built at the base of a mountain, and up this I 
ascended until, reaching its summit, I had a good view of the re- 
gion around me. I was now where I had long hoped to be. Be- 
low, and encircling the island, was a field of ice, making an excel- 
lent footway for travel. To the south and the west were the 
open waters of Frobisher Bay, its surface dotted over with broken 
ice, which was quietly floating about. This however, just then, 
was vexatious, as it prevented me from making my intended 
sledge-journey to the westward. Besolution Island and Mela lu- 
cor/nita were also in sight (the former visible on the horizon, prob- 
ably by refraction) ; and at nvy back the bold mountains seemed 
all but touching me, though some few miles distant. 

On the top of the mountain I found many small pieces of lime- 
stone, and, while collecting some of them, Annawa and two other 
Innuits joined me. They had come for the i">urposc of looking 
out to see if any seals or walrus were near; and when, through 
my glass, I discovered one, they were off immediately. Soon aft- 
erward I perceived them on the ice prepared for the hunt. 



BLIND GEORGE AND HIS DAUGHTER KOOKOOYER. 



259 



After staying on the summit nearly an hour, I descended, and 
found a substantial Innuit breakfast of walrus-meat and soup 
ready for me. This breakfast had been prepared by Oonga, wife 
of Esheeloo, both of whom shared Annawa's igloo. This igloo of 
Annawa's was adorned on the exterior with a score of walrus 
skulls and tusks. The family had lived here, as I have already 
mentioned, for some time alone, but latterly their privacy had 
been much invaded by some of the ship's company, and by sev- 
eral Innuits from the North Star and upper villages. Among 
these latter I recognized Miner, with his wife Tweroong, and Ar- 
tarkparn, brother of Annawa. There was also Pulo, the mother 
of that Anglo-Saxon child before referred to; and Pauhoyer 
(Blind George), whom I noticed facing the sun, as was his way 




when it shines. He immediately recognized my voice, and glad- 
ly greeted me when I hailed him. These, and many more, were 
domiciled in some half dozen igloos built near Annawa's; but 
there was also another village, called Twer-piikju-a, where several 
Innuits resided, and to this, after breakfast, I bent my way, tak- 
ing Koojesse with me. 
Before starting, I delivered every thing I had, as was cu- 



260 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ary with the Innuits, into the hands of Nood-le-yong for safe 
keeping. We then started about nine o'clock, taking a course 
over the hilly centre of the island. Arriving at the top, I heard 
a sound filling the air as if something was sweeping b} r . It was 
like the rush of many waters, or the groaning of ice far away. I 
asked Koojesse what it was, and he replied, Meituks (ducks). I 
thought it could not be possible, but was a whimsical reason 
given by Innuits for something they know exists, and yet can 
not comprehend. I laughed, shrugged my shoulders, and then 
passed on. 

We arrived at the other village after a walk of about three 
miles, and there I met Mr. Sterry, the George Hennjs carpenter. 
He was suffering from snow-blindness, brought on by exposure 
upon the ice while out with a party of Innuits walrus hunting. 
He had obtained leave of absence from his duties on board, and 
was now living with the natives, "keeping house" (igloo) as 
though he was of the country. 

Together we went on a hill to watch the movements of the In- 
nuit Miner, who, with a gun, was sealing. We saw him working 
his way almost imperceptibly along in his ki-a through the open- 
ings in the ice toward his coveted prey, which rested quietly un- 
conscious of his presence. As Miner approached, he kept up a 
loud, peculiar noise, a mixture of Innuit singing and bellowing, 
which seemed to work as a charm upon the seal. Every few mo- 
ments he would lay down his gun and make a stroke or two with 
his long, double-bladed oar ; then the seal, as if alarmed, would 
seem about to depart. As soon as the slightest motion indicative 
of this appeared, Miner would again seize his gun and aim, at 
the same time vehemently increasing the tones of his seal-song. 
The seal, thus again charmed, kept quiet, and Miner would once 
more take to his oars, thus endeavoring to gradually decrease the 
distance between them. So it occurred for several times, and evi- 
dently Miner had great hope of securing a good prize, but sud- 
denly, and when the hunter was almost as near as he desired to 
be, the seal broke away from the "soothing voice of the charm- 
er," raised its head, made a plunge, and, before Miner could lire, 
disappeared. Then came upon our ears, as we looked and listen- 
ed, the loud, peculiar ejaculation of disappointment, E-e-e-uk ! and 
no wonder, for the poor hunter lost by it about half a ton of fresh 
provisions. I, too, owing to the interest I felt, was also nigh hav- 
ing a loss, which, though not so important as his, was one which I 



ISLAND OF OOl'UXGNEWIXG. 261 

did not then wish to experience. A meridional observation on 
the ice with my pocket sextant was secured only just in time to 
save it. 

I continued my walk, and ascended a mountain close by, pick- 
ing up several fossil stones on its summit, and enjoying the view- 
around me. Soon I was joined by the Innuits Kokerjabin (Kud- 
lago's widow) and Neitch-ee-yong, both of whom were born on 
the shores of the great bay before us. Kokerjabin pointed out to 
me the place of her nativity, on the opposite side of the bay, call- 
ed by her Kar-mo-wong, an inlet which makes its way up into the 
interior of Kingaite (Meta Incognita). She said that from a high 
point at the termination of that inlet she had often seen the oorai- 
ens of kodluaas (ships of the white men) pass up„ and then, at a 
later time, down the waters which were on the other side of Kin- 
gaite. This made Kingaite to be mereby a narrow tongue of land, 
the extreme of which, as Kokerjabin stated it to be, I could see 
bearing from me by azimuth compass 102°, or true bearing S. 
16° "W. Karmowong bore S. 51° W. true. I took several other 
observations and measurements the next and following days, for 
the purpose of mapping the locality and accurately placing upon 
record all that I might discover bearing upon Frobisher's expe- 
dition. My sleeping accommodations at night were with the na- 
tives in their igloo, and I partook of their food, eating it even as 
they themselves did, and, I might add, thoroughly enjoying it. 

Thus two days passed away, and on the third, which was April 
25th, I again started for an extension of my trip. 

It was about noon when I left, accompanied by Stcrry, Koker- 
jabin, and her son " Captain." This youth pf twelve years would 
insist upon taking with him a toy sledge, to which "Pink," a lit- 
tle dog of a few months old, was harnessed, and, as he made it a 
point to have the sledge, I was obliged to let it be taken with us. 

Our first five miles were circuitous, though on a general course 
(true) of about "W.N.W. From the breaking up and consequent 
absence of the sea-ice, which had occurred two days before my 
arrival, we were obliged to follow the shore-ice, walking on what 
Dr. Kane called the "ice-foot?' Thus we were one moment this 
way, the next that, and sometimes walking on shore. This made 
it very difficult to get on, especially as the tide at that time rose 
and fell full thirty feet ; and, besides, the frequent change from ice 
to land was no easy work. 

When wc had gone about four miles, an old Innuit man was 



262 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

seen with his gun quietly seated on the rocks overlooking the 
bay and watching for seals. A few words of greeting were ex- 
changed, and I then looked around the place. I noticed that 
about here there was quite a level spot of ground for these re- 
gions ; and what more particularly attracted my attention was a 
complete natural breakwater of stones, evidently thrown up by 
the heavy seas. The side next the sea was sloping at an angle 
of 40°, and that facing the flat of land, which it protected, about 
50°. The stones were of every variet}' of shape, though not much 
worn, and weighing from one to twenty-five pounds. 

On this flat portion of land I perceived many signs of its hav- 
ing been the frequent resort of Innuits during the summer months 
— circles of stones for keeping down the skins which form their 
tents ; bones of walrus and reindeer were also numerous. Here, 
too, I saw, to my surprise, ship's blocks, iron hoops two and a half 
inches wide, part of a coffee-jjot, preserved meat canisters, an oak- 
en bucket in good order, and several pieces of wood, all, as I aft- 
erward conjectured, formerly belonging to the " Traveller," an En- 
glish whaling vessel lost three years previous near " Bear Sound," 
about thirty miles nearer the sea. 

It was at this place we lunched, and had the pleasure of finding 
abundance of water on the rocks to quench our thirst. Here, on 
a point of land called hy the Innuits Evictoon, was a native mon- 
ument such as they usually erect on prominent places. 

As we were about to resume our march, two seals were discov- 
ered in the sun near some cracked ice. Immediately the old man 
started off to try his rusty gun upon them, at first stumbling hur- 
riedly over some broken ice that intervened, and then proceeding 
very cautiously. When within forty rods he lay down upon his 
front, and kneed, footed, and bellied himself along, not unlike the „ 
movements of the seals he was after. But, as in Miner's case, a 
moment afterward his prey, taking the alarm, rose up, and with a 
plunge instantly disappeared. The old man jumped up, crying 
aloud E-e-e-uk! and walked on. 

As we traveled forward the mountains of Kingaite loomed up in 
magnificent grandeur, and, on looking at them, something struck 
me as it had done when first viewing the place in August, 1860, 
that more than mere land existed there. It seemed as if a huge 
ice ridge ran along parallel with the coast, uniting mountain with 
mountain and peak with peak. Seeing how intent I was upon 
this, Kokerjabin readily answered my inquiry as to what it really 



NIGHT-TRAVELING ON THE ICE. 263 

was. In reply, she said " it was solid ice, and never had she known 
it to change its appearance, either in summer or fall." 

This was enough. I immediately concluded that there were 
glaciers over there, and certainly the one I then looked at ap- 
peared to be not less than fifteen to twenty miles long. But, as I 
afterward visited the locality, I shall reserve farther mention of 
them till I come to another part of my narrative. 

About dusk we reached the south point of the island Nou- 
yarn,* where we had expected to find an Innuit village, the place 
of our intended visit. But, to our disappointment and vexation, 
the settlement was not there. "Within two hundred fathoms of 
the shore we saw sledge-tracks leading from the land out into 
the bay, and thence northward and westward. Here, also, on the 
ice, we saw two double-barreled guns standing up in the snow, 
and an Esquimaux lamp ; but not a human being besides our- 
selves was there. We knew not what to do. Dark and cold, we 
should undoubtedly suffer much if unable to get shelter. "What 
could we do? We might, for a while, follow the sledge-tracks, 
but not long, as the darkness was upon us. Eight o'clock, and 
we had neither shelter, food, nor light. Even to keep warmth in 
us for a moment, it was necessary to be in action, or the chances 
were we should freeze; and to remain so all night, we might per- 
ish. Sterry proposed that we should return to the igloos we had 
left in the morning, but to this Kokerjabin and myself objected. 
The best thing we could do, as I thought, was to follow the tracks, 
and, if not meeting with Innuits, build an igloo and make the best 
of it. This was agreed to, and again we started forward, Koker- 
jabin leading the way, which she did most admirabl} 7 , guiding us 
here and there among numerous inlets, without once being in the 
wrong or confused. 

The moon had now risen from her sea-bed, but looked as if 
guilty of some wicked act, being both horribly distorted and red 
in the face ! But the higher up she got, the better was her ap- 
pearance, and the greater was her usefulness to us night-travelers. 
At length, about half past ten, and when we had gone some three 
miles farther, Kokerjabin brought us to a small island called An- 
nu-ar-tung, where she expected to find the Innuits. 

"We listened; we strained our eyes for an igloo light, but in 
vain ; not a sound, not a glimmer of any thing we had hoped for 
met our ears or our eyes. Still, we determined to be thoroughly 
* Lat. 02° 55' N., long. 65° 52' W. 



264 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

convinced, and accordingly tried to get on shore. This, however, 
even in daylight, would have been a difficult task where there was 
so great a rise and fall in the tide as thirty feet, but at night we 
found it a terrible job. At last it was accomplished ; and looking 
about for the igloos, and meeting with none, it was finally settled 
that we should have some supper before trying any thing more. 

Our stock of food consisted of a small piece of "salt junk" and 
some few pieces of hard bread, all of which I had brought from 
the vessel with me; nevertheless, every mouthful we took was 
delicious to our hungry appetites. But the thirst ! how could we 
quench it? We had nothing by which to make snow-water, and 
we had vainly searched the rocks around for some. Every parti- 
cle was firmly locked up in the fingers of zero cold. " Thirst, 
most thirsty !" we had to say, and, in sooth, to remain thirsty. 

The next thing we did was to build an igloo, where, at all 
events, something like shelter could be obtained, and warmth by 
clustering together. Four human stoves, besides as many heat- 
ing, smoking tobacco-pipes, would help to make us passably com- 
fortable ; and so we found. 

Kokerjabin, the master-mason, aided by Stcrry, built the igloo 
out of a snow-bank which faced a ledge of rocks running length- 
wise of the island — under the lee of which, fortunately, it was — 
while I and the Innuit boy went upon the higher part of the land 
seeking for water. The igloo completed, on lying down we found 
that it was too limited, and that we should be inconveniently and 
perhaps injuriously cramped; therefore a remedy must be found, 
and this was by cutting "pigeon-holes" in the snow-bank for our 
feet. This answered, and soon we were fast asleep, though upon 
a bed of snow, and at my back a snow-bank. 

Toward morning I felt myself getting very cold, and, to warm 
us up, it was judged wise for all to smoke, which was done most 
agreeably. I then cut a doorway r , and crawled out of the igloo on 
all-fours. The wind was fresh and piercing from the east, and, to 
get some circulation in our veins, Sterry and I made a run to the 
top of a hill. There we had a good look around, and then de- 
scended, but on arriving at the igloo we found Kokerjabin and 
her son gone. "We therefore followed in their tracks, and soon 
overtook them on the highest point of the island. Presently 
Kokerjabin discovered, through the glass, some igloos on an isl- 
and farther on. To these we immediately determined to bend our 
steps, more especially as Kokerjabin said she knew the island 



ARRIVAL AT SAMPSON'S. 265 

well, and bad often resided there. It was called Ak-l-oo-irie-shul- 
too-ping* One hour's walk across the ice brought us close to 
it. Ice boulders, however, always between the sea-ice and the 
" ice-foot," gave us the usual trouble in getting on shore ; but, this 
over, we soon found ourselves, to my great joy, among familiar 
faces. The first I saw was Sampson, who, taking me kindly by 
the hand, squeezed it, hugged it, ptalted it, and then led me into his 
igloo. 

It was an early hour for them, and his family were still in bed, 
yet they all arose and heartily welcomed me. Food, and especial- 
ly tuater, was plentifully put before me, and I need not say how 
gratefully I partook of both. Four large igloos were there, each 
occupied by two families. The bay being partially frozen over, 
the men were preparing to start on a grand sealing excursion to- 
ward Kingaite, which here seemed to be only about twenty-five 
miles off. Two of the women accompanied this party, and before 
they left I arranged with Sampson to stay in his igloo until he 
returned. His wife was sick, and with her two daughters she re- 
mained to " keep house." 

Sampson and his party started about 8 A.M. of Thursday, April 
25th, and at noon a snow-storm raged so furiously that some fears 
were entertained for their safety ; but they returned in the after- 
noon, having captured one fine seal. A feast, as usual, followed; 
and here I noticed for the first time an Innuit custom of giving to 
the youngest child the seals eyes. That night, while in bed, I re- 
ceived a rather unwelcome visitor in the following way : 

It has been justly said that "knowledge is often pursued under 
difficulties," but in my case the knowledge I desired came to me 
instead of my seeking it. 

I was desirous of making myself acquainted with the tides in 
that region, and took every opportunity to investigate the subject; 
but, on the night in question, between seven and eight o'clock, the 
tide came pouring into the igloo, threatening destruction to all with- 
in it. The full moon, by Greenwich time, was, April 24th, 10 h. 
23 m., and, consequently, the highest rise of the tide would here be 
some forty hours after. I had watched for it during some time, 
and finally retired to my tuktoo furs, little expecting it would 
show itself to me by my bedside in the way it did; but such a 
proof was enough. From it I ascertained that the rise of tide at 
full and change was thirty feet. Fortunately, the tidal flow and 
• In lut. G2° 66' N., long. 65 57' W. 



^lii', ARCTIC KESEAKCH EXPEDITION. 

abrupt inundation produced no serious damage, though it gave 
work to the females of the igloo, who hurriedly secured the fur 
dresses and other valuables from the salt water. 

It was strange to me to see them cleaning or curbing the seal- 
skins. The mouth of the female currier served as a deposit for 
all the scrapings, and the tongue was kept in constant requisition 
to keep free the scraper, a dish being by to receive the contents 
of the mouth when full. 

The scrapings of board, hands, etc., all went first to the mouth, 
then to the dish, and thence to the dogs ! 

The storm continued during the following day, and I remained 
where I was, studying more and more the habits of this strange 
people, and endeavoring to give some elementary instruction to 
the children. 

Our breakfast and dinner were both excellent; for the former, 
raw frozen walrus, of which I had a piece for nry share of about 
five pounds, and at the latter, seal. The portion of this allot- 
ted to me and Sterry was the head. "We complied with the In- 
nuit custom. Sterry took a mouthful, then passed it to me, and 
when I had done the same it was returned to him, and so on. Of 
course fingers were all in all. No knives and forks are found 
among the Innuits; fingers and teeth are more than their equiv- 
alent. 

When the meat, skin, and hair were all dispatched — even the 
eyes, except the balls, which were given to the youngest child of 
Sampson — we "tapped" the brain. I was surprised at the amount 
of a seal's brains, and equally so at the deliciousness of them ! 
The skull was almost as thin as paper. Shoot a seal in the head 
and it dies. Shoot a walrus in the head, and the damage is to thi 
ball, which immediately flattens, without effecting any injury what- 
ever to the walrus. 

Later in the day I attended another feast in the igloo of Koo- 
kin, who had invited his old mother, Shel-lu-ar-ping, and two oth- 
er venerable dames, and I must say that if my friends at home 
could then have seen how like an Innuit I ate, they would have 
blushed for me. 

First came a portion of seal's liver, raw and warm from its late 
existence in full life. This, with a slice of oohook (blubber), was 
handed to each, and I made away with mine as quick as any of 
the old adepts. Then came ribs inclosed in tender meat, dripping 
with blood. How ambrosial to my palate! Lastly came — what? 



THE SEAL-FEAST.— AUTHOR BECOMES AN ANGEKO. 267 

Entrails, which the old lady drew through her fingers yards in 
length. This was served to every one but me in pieces of two 
to three feet long. I saw at once that it was supposed I would 
not like to eat this delicacy; but, having partaken of it before, I 
signified my wish to do so now ; for, be it remembered, there is no 
part of a seal but is good. I drew the ribbon-like food through 
my teeth Innuit fashion ; finished it, and then asked for more. This 
immensely pleased the old dames. They were in ecstasies. It 
seemed as if they thought me the best of the group. They laugh- 
ed — they bestowed upon me all the most pleasant epithets their 
language would admit. I was one of them — one of the honored 
few ! 

Soon as this round of feasting was ended, one of the old lady 
Innuits drew my attention to her afflictions. She had a dreadful 
pain in her side and back, and had been badly troubled for weeks. 
Before I had time for thought, she drew off her long-tailed coat 
over her head, and sat there before me nude as Nature made her. 
The laughing face and the joyful, ringing voice of the old lady 
were now exchanged for expressions indicative of suffering and 
the need of sympathy. The whole party present were now absorb- 
ed in the subject before me. I put on as long and dignified a face 
as I could in this trying scene, and, as much was evidently ex- 
pected from me, I was determined no disappointment should fol- 
low. Therefore I proceeded to manipulate the parts affected, or. 
rather, 'plowed my fingers in the rich loam — real estate — that cov- 
ered the ailing places. The result was that I gave notice that she 
should live on, eating as much fresh seal and walrus as she want- 
ed, drinking water several times a day, and applying the same 
amount at the end of every ten days that she had drank in that 
time to the outside of her body by the process of scrubbing, which 
I there and then practically explained to her and the others. I 
told her, moreover, that as the suk-c-neir (sun) was day by day 
getting higher and higher, she must keep herself warm and dry, 
and then, in my opinion, she would soon be quite relieved. 

So caressingly did I finger the old lady's side during the deliv- 
ery of my impromptu advice, that she declared I was the best an- 
geko she had known, and positively she felt much better already. 
Placing on her coat, she then jumped up and ran away to her own 
igloo as lively as a cricket. 

During the time I was stopping in Sampson's igloo I made ev- 
ery incpairy possible about the tradition concerning ships entering 



268 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the bay a long time ago ; but I was unable, from my then slender 
knowledge of tbeir language, to get intelligible answers. There- 
fore I Lad still to remain patient about it. 

The following day, Saturday, April 27th, we commenced our re- 
turn; but it was cold and stormy, and, as I had left some of my 
fur dress at Annawa's, I sought to borrow reindeer trowsers, mite, 
and socks there. These I readily obtained; but the first-mention- 
ed article being too small for my dimensions, one of the Innuit 
women slit them clown with her oodloo till they did fit, after a fash- 
ion. But, on attempting to move, I was as if in a vice. I could 
not walk, I could not run, nor could I seat myself; I could only 
waddle and tumble clown ! On the ice in front of the igloos I tried 
to get on, but yon, my reader, should have been there to have 
seen and enjoyed the sight I presented, and to have heard the 
ringing, side-splitting laughter of this generous-hearted and kind 
band of Innuits at the grotesque figure I cut in old Seko's skin- 
tight breeches. A sledge drawn by dogs had been loaned to us, 
and upon this I threw myself; but, long after our departure, on 
my looking back, I could see the merry lot still watching, and ap- 
parently enjoying the fun I had created. 

Our sledge went fast, the dogs being good ones, with an excel- 
lent Innuit driver, Ning-u-ar-ping, the son of Sampson and Kok- 
erjabin. On the smooth clear ice, which extended from Samp- 
son's village to where we had first halted on our way up, our 
progress was very rapid. As we passed the island where we had 
spent the night before meeting the Innuits, I saw our igloo still 
standing. A little farther on, I observed to the north a peculiar 
mark — the work of Nature — by the west side of the entrance to 
Newton's Fiord, standing out boldly upon one of the mountains. 
On inquiry, I found it was considered by the natives as a remark- 
able spot, known to them from time immemorial. It was called 
Ing-ee. "Whosoever would know what this means, let him confi- 
dentially ask an Esquimaux man. 

After some miles' travel we came to a depot of walrus flesh, 
made by Sampson's people on a previous occasion ; and here, after 
loading from it, the sledge left us on its return. 

Sterry and I, Kokerjabin and Captain, then walked on, and, 
after a tedious journey of about fifty miles — though direct on]}' 
some twenty from the village — we arrived at Twerpukjua at 9 
P.M., so thoroughly fatigued as to be right glad of the friendly 
beds immediately offered us. 



THE SNOW VILLAGE.— A SUNDAY PICTURE. 271 

Next morning I arose much refreshed, and took a walk on the 
neighboring hill. The ice had before parted and left the bay al- 
most free, but I was greatly astonished at the immense number 
of ducks I saw swimming about. For miles and miles around 
the waters were literally covered and black with them, making 
such a thundering, indescribable medley of sounds as quite start- 
led me. Talk about the " absence of life" in these regions of ice 
and snow ! "Why, before my eyes were countless numbers of 
animated creatures, from the winged fowl of the sea to the seal 
and walrus I 

What do all these creatures live upon? "Why are they here? 
The waters must be, alive with other innumerable creatures ! Soon 
"great whales" will be here, and for what? Is there food for 
(hern here too ? 

At 9 A.M. I left Twerpukjua, and directed my way to Anna- 
wa's, at the island of Oopungnewing, where I arrived in due 
course, and was kindly welcomed as usual. Noodle3"ong was 
busy sewing skins together for making the summer tupic or tent, 
and Annawa, with other men, were out sealing. In the afternoon 
these latter returned, and we had the customary feast in the open 
air. 

It was Sunday, and I could not help thoughtfully looking upon 
the scene before me. There was the snow village of pure white 
igloos, with their wad-lings and (ook-soos embellished by trophies 
of the walrus hunts. A score of laughing, happy, untutored, un- 
civilized, and " unchristianized" sons and daughters of the North 
were around or near me. There was a group on my right com- 
mencing the feast; three women, that had been out gathering 
kelp (seaweed) as an article of food, coming up from the beach ; 
Annawa and his sealing company drawing up their kias on the 
floe-ice seaward ; open water near by covered with clucks; Blind 
George standing in front of Bob's igloo, facing and welcoming 
the sun's warm rays ; a number of boys drawing another captured 
seal across the rugged ice lining the shore ; and one young urchin 
with a brace of clucks newly shot. In the narrow distance were 
some icebergs and floating masses of ice, and behind, as well as 
far off, the bold mountains, which gave a grandeur to the view. 

The next morning, April 20th, accompanied by Esheeloo and 
his wife Oonga, I started on foot for the ship in Rescue Harbor, a 
distance of about twenty miles. 

Part of the way was over broken ice, and this made the jour- 



272 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ney both tedious and difficult. At noon we were at the foot of 
Bayard Taylor Pass leading to Field Bay, and after a lunch we 
walked on over the land, stopping a moment at the half-way sta- 
tion for a drink of delicious water, and arrived on the other side 
at i P.M. 

Field Bay had firm ice upon it, and over this we traveled as 
rapidly as we could, finally reaching the ship at 8 P.M., having 
been just twelve hours on the way. 




OOD-LOO, OR WOMAN'S KNIFE. 

The illustration one third the size of the original. 
In the hands of an Esquimaux woman, this simple instrument, made of hone and iron (the arc sim- 
ply edged with iron), is equivalent to the knife, hatchet, scraper, and shears of civilization. 






AUTHOR PARTIALLY SNOW-BLIND. 273 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Snow-blindness. — Month of May. — Ship released from her Ice-fetters. — A spirited 
Scene. — Sledge-dogs at full Speed. — "Bob, "the Angeko. — Falling Igloos. — An- 
ecdote of Bob. — Terrific Encounter with a Bear. — A Toss in the Air. — A power- 
ful Innuit. — The aged Woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo. — Tookoolito Interpreter. — Im- 
portant Information. — Traditions relating to White Men very many Years ago. — 
Ships with many People had arrived. — Two Innuit Women taken away. — Five 
Innuits killed by White Men.— Five White Men among the Innuits. — Written 
History confirmed by Oral Tradition. — Barrow's History of Arctic Discovery.— 
Relics of the White Men to be found. — Wood, Coal, Brick, Iron. — Innuits must 
possess the Truth concerning Franklin's Expedition. — More Information. — The 
Dreaded Land.— Preparations for Summer Work. — Illness of Tookoolito. — Ex- 
ploration at Head of Field Bay. — Dangerous Traveling on the Ice. — Pools of 
Water formed. — Arrive on Land.— Extensive View. — A beautiful Grassy Plain. 
—Comparison with Greenland.— Lands behind the Coast, at this Part, very fer- 
tile. — Reindeer numerous. — Return to the Ship. 

Directly after my arrival on board, on April 29th, 1861, 1 had 
a good wash, which I stood much in need of. I then found that 
snow-blindness had come upon me. During the journey I had 
felt some difficulty in sighting the way, but did not experience 
any pain. Now, however, my face burned as if on fire, and my 
eyes were intolerably painful. My cheeks were much the color 
of tanned hide, and all about my features gave unmistakable ev- 
idence of exposure to severe weather. 

That night I again enjoyed the luxury of taking off my skin 
dress, which I had not been able to do for the previous eight 
days. But my snow-blindness, which is attended with most ex- 
cruciating pain, allowed me little rest, and the next morning found 
me so bad that I could hardly do any thing. 

It was now the last day of April, 1861, and many symptoms 
of a change from winter to summer (the only real changes during 
the year in arctic climes) were observable. True, a heavy snow- 
storm was prevailing, but the weather was much milder than it 
had been, and the ice was beginning to yield. In the morning 
the ship was released from her ice-fetters, and had lifted herself 
up full two feet, showing how much lighter she had become 
through the consumption of stores since the period of freezing in. 

S 



274 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

On the 3d of May, which was a beautiful and warm day, Ebi- 
erbing and Tookoolito arrived, with all their effects, intending to 
stay with me until I was ready, as previously arranged, to leave 
for King William's Land. They were well, and had got through 
the interval since I had last seen them in the usual precarious 
manner, sometimes with, sometimes without success in sealing, 
so alternately with or without food. 

The following morning we had another snow-storm, which con- 
tinued with slight intermissions for several days. 

On the 6th of May, Captain B , wishing the dogs to be well 

fed previous to being employed in transporting the whale-boats, 
stores, etc., over to the whaling depot at Cape True, asked several 
of the Innuits to take them over to Oopungnewing, where there 
was plenty of walrus skin and meat; but one and all refused. 
They said "the weather was too bad;" whereupon I volunteered 
to go with any Innuit that would accompany me ; but, finally, the 
gale having abated, Captain B himself determined to go, tak- 
ing with him two of the Esquimaux, who at last consented to ac- 
company him. 

There were twenty-five dogs, and these we had harnessed to a 
sledge by the Innuits Charley and Jim Crow, who were ready to 

start. Captain B went ahead, and I, following with the sledge, 

soon overtook him, but not until I had seen a good specimen of 
dog-driving. 

At the beginning it was slow work to get the dogs under way, 
but, once on the start, away they went, pell-mell together, and swift- 
ly, over the fair white snow. It was amusing to see my Green- 
land dogs, with the others, weaving and knitting, braiding and 
banding their traces into knots and webs that apparent^ would 
defy human devices to unravel. One dog would leap over the 
backs of a dozen others ; another dog, receiving the snap of the 
thirty-feet lash in the driver's hands, thinking it the work of his 
nearest neighbor, would seize him, as if to repay it by a ten-fold 
severer snap: then the rest would join in the fray, till all became 
involved in a regular dog-fight. It was a picture to see these 
twenty-five dogs flying almost with the speed of wind over the 
frozen surface of the deep snow. But, after joining the captain 
and resigning to him my place, it was not quite so pleasant for 
me to return. I had but light garments on, and the weather was 
still severe. However, the distance was not far, and I reached 
the ship without much difficulty. 



TERRIFIC ENCOUNTER WITH A BEAR. 275 

Captain B , to my astonishment, returned on the following 

day at about 10 P.M. He had duly arrived at Oopungnewing; 
was hospitably received in Bob's igloo for the night; and, having 
supplied himself with a load of walrus meat — indeed, he might 
have had half a dozen loads, so abundant was the supply at that 
time — and preferring to return rather than stay where the igloos 
were about tumbling down, owing to the moist weather, he came 
back in the midst of the continuous storm. The labor of getting 
over the Bayard Taylor Pass was very severe to him, especially 
at the steep ascent on the other side. He could only make two 
or three steps before he was obliged to rest, each step carrying 
him thigh deep into the soft snow. 

With the captain came "Bob" and his wife "Polly;" but this 
time Bob came in a professional capacity. He was a doctor, or, 
rather, an angeko, and now came to visit the sick mother of 
Sharkey. 

The following day I chanced to witness him engaged at the 
work. I was walking among the ruined igloos, which, having 
fallen down, had been nearly all replaced by skin tents, when I 
heard the peculiar sound of ankooting close by. It was near the 
tupic of Ar-lung-ung, mother of Sharkey ; but I did not enter, for 
generally no one but the family is allowed to be present on such 
occasions ; and, though one can not help pitying the superstitious 
feeling that directs them to this, yet why should any of us make 
light of it? They are earnest in the matter, and only follow the 
customs of their fathers for generations before them. Possibly, 
however, it may yet be the honor of our countr}', through some 
noble-hearted Christian philanthropist, to bring them to a knowl- 
edge of the one true God. 

The Innuit Bob was a man that ever}' one of us highly esteem- 
ed. I have before alluded to him in warm terms, and I will now 
mention a circumstance which belonged to the romantic incidents 
of his life. 

In the winter of 1854-5, he and a companion, with some clogs, 
attacked a large polar bear. His companion's name was Se-nik- 
too — "Moose," as called by the whalers. He afterward, in 1858, 
died at Allen's Island, leaving a widow — the Puto whom I have 
frequently named. 

Moose fired at the bear, when it rushed toward them. Bob 
stood his ground until he too had fired, and then immediately 
turned and ran ; but the next moment the bear was upon him, 



276 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and, seizing his left shoulder in its jaws, threw him high over its 
head, as if he had been a mere bag of feathers ! Bob fell about 
four fathoms off, and was getting up, when the bear again laid 
hold of him, this time by the leg, and gave him another toss. The 
dogs, however, now managed to keep the animal at bay ; and 
Moose coming to Bob's aid, they bravely renewed the attack, un- 
til at length these courageous Innuits succeeded in conquering 
the brute. Unfortunately, they lost him after all their trouble, 
for the ice broke, and the tide swept their prize away. 

I saw the scars of the wounds inflicted by this monster, Bob 
taking off his reindeer dress in the main cabin to gratify me. 

Captain B said that the laceration was terrible, for he had 

seen it a few days after the occurrence, and administered such re- 
lief as was in his power. Bob was undoubtedly a powerful man, 
muscular, full-breasted, of great nerve, and firm as iron. When 
he stripped I had a good opportunity to see this, and he allowed 
me to take the measurement of his body. 7 

On the 10th of May Ebierbing's grandmother, the aged Oolajoxy 
Ninoo, arrived with him from Cornelius Grinnell Bay, where he 
had been to fetch her to his home. I was anxious for a conver- 
sation with her, as she could give me much information, from na- 
tive traditions and personal observation, about the Frobishcr ex- 
peditions of 1576-8 ; but it was not until the next day that I had 
the opportunity. 

Next morning I went on shore at Cooper's Island, a small isl- 
and near the George Henry in Rescue Harbor, where Ebicrbing. 
Tookoolito, and Ookijoxy Ninoo lived in tupics. Our conversa- 
tion commenced by my leading the way, through Ebierbing, his 
wife acting as interpreter, which, aided by my own increasing 
knowledge of the language, enabled me to quite understand the 
old lady's narrative. 

Ebierbing said that " he well recollected, when a boy, seeing, on 
an island near Oopungnewing, oug (something red, which I inferred, 
from his subsequent explanation, to mean bricks) and coal. At 
that time he knew not what those things were, but when he visit- 
ed England in 1855, he there saw bricks, and understood their 
use for the first time. Coal he had seen on board an English 
whaler previous to that, but not until years after his noticing these 
things on the island. He said he used to play with these bricks, 
piling them up in rows and in various forms, as children often 
do, and also marked stones with them, and -was delighted to see 



FROBISHER'S EXPEDITIONS. 



277 



the red strokes. He also remembered Innuit women using the 
bricks, whenever they could be obtained, for polishing the brass 
ornaments worn on the head. Likewise he could well remember 
how some of his aged people told him that many — a great many 
vears ago, ships came into the Bay Tia-ituyjL-pinfj-oo-sc-ong" (Fro- 
hisher Bay). This was Ebierbing's statement. I now proceed to 
that of his grandmother. But, before doing this, let me describe 
the scene as it was at the time of my receiving the following im- 
portant communication from her : 

Her tupic was very small — only large enough to hold herself 
comfortably in a sitting or reclining posture — but I managed to 
squeeze in beside her, seating myself at her right side. Tookoo- 
lito was outside by the entrance, facing the old lady and myself. 




OLD OOKUOXT MSOO KULBATINU TUB TRA1HTION8 Or I1CB PE0r-I.lt. 



The position of Ookijoxy Ninoo was usually a reclining one, 

she resting her elbows on the pillow-place of her bed, and her 

chin upon her hands. By her side was her little kood-lin (lamp), 

and in front of that was a small board, on which was a handful 

:ed beans given to her by some one from the ship, and also 



278 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

a few broken pieces of sea-bread which Tookoolito had saved for 
her. There was, besides, abundance of walrus blubber and skin 
for her to eat when hungry. 

During the time I was in her tupic and listening to her words, 
a favorite grandchild of hers, E-ter-loong, was just outside, fre- 
quently crying for food. The old lady gave the child a part of 
the beans and biscuit ; but his noise was a great interruption. 

The weather was very cold — bitterly so ; and I often requested 
Tookoolito to take my place inside, but she preferred my retain- 
ing " the seat of honor." 

The following is the substance of her statements to me respect- 
ing the objects of my inquiry. 

Placing before her the sketch-chart formerly drawn by Koo- 
jesse, and showing her Cornelius Grinnell Bay, Singeyer, Field 
Bay, tracing along down through Bear Sound to Cape True, 
thence to Oopungnewing, I asked her if she recognized those par- 
ticular parts. Her reply was that she did ; and immediately ask- 
ed, "What is the name of the island where Koochooarchu (Samp- 
son) was?" meaning the island where myself, with Sterry and 
Kokerjabin, visited Sampson on the previous April 27th. I re- 
plied, " Ak-koo-wie-shul-loo-ping." 

"That," said she, "is where I have spent much of my life — many 
of my best days. But the place where the kodlunas (white peo- 
ple) of the ships landed is called Nvountelik, an island near Oo- 
pungnewing." 

She then proceeded to say that upon Niountelik she had seen 
bricks, and coal, and pieces of timber of various sizes. She had 
also heard from old Innuits that, many years before, ships had 
landed there with a great number of people. She remembered, 
when a little girl, hearing Innuits tell about these people hav- 
ing killed several Innuits ; also that farther down, or on Kingaite 
side, as the old lady spoke it, they took away two Innuit women, 
who never came back again. 

I asked her if she knew how many ships had come there ? Her 
reply was, They came every year ; first two, then three, then 
am-a-su-ad-lo oo-moo-arch-chu-a (many — a great many ships). 
"Five Innuits were also killed by the kodlunas" (white people). 
Not feeling quite certain of the meaning of her answer, I repeated 
the question, How many ships came here? Tookoolito, on receiv- 
ing the answer, gave it to me in this way : " She said ' they came 
every year,'" and then ceased from repeating more of the old 



TRADITIONS OF THE LNNUITS. 279 

woman's words. This puzzled inc ; I knew not what to make of 
it. I began to think that perhaps whaling ships had annually 
visited the great bay. But, after a few moments, I found Tookoo- 
lito had ceased speaking merely to consider the true interpreta- 
tion of what the old lady had said into my vernacular. She con- 
tinued by saying, ' : First two, then two or three, then many — very 
many vessels. " 

This was clear; and I immediately took up the only book I 
then had with me bearing upon the subject, "Barrow's Chrono- 
logical History of Arctic Discover}'," and, turning to the account 
of Frobisher's voyages, I read what had been given to the world 
by means of writing and printing, and compared it with what was 
now communicated to me by means of oral tradition. Written 
history tells me that Frobisher made three voyages to the arctic 
regions as follows : 

First voyage in 1576, with two* vessels. 

Second voj-age in 1577, three vessels. 

Third voyage in 157S, fifteen vessels. 

Traditionary history informs mc that a great man)-, many years 
ago the vessels of white men visited the bay (Frobisher's) three 
successive years : 

First, in two vessels. 

Second, in three vessels. 

Third, in many vessels. 

But this is not all that traditionary history gave me on that day. 
Written history states that Frobisher lost Jive of his men on his 
first voyage when conveying a native on shore. Oral history 
told me that five white men were captured by Innuit people at 
the time of the appearance of the ships a great many years ago ; 
that these men wintered on shore (whether one, two, three, or 
more winters, could not say); that they lived among the Innuits; 
that they afterward built an oomien (large boat), and put a mast 
into her, and had sails ; that early in the season, before much wa- 
ter appeared, they endeavored to depart; that, in the effort, some 
froze their hands; but that finally they succeeded in getting into 
open water, and away they went, which was the last seen or heard 
of them. This boat, as near as I could make out at the time, was 
built on the island that Frobisher and his company landed upon, 
viz., Niountelik. 

I have here put down a part only of what I recorded in my 
* Sec Appendix, No. 8. 



280 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

journal at the time, and, consequently, much of it will be found 
to have been the result of some slight mistake in what I then un- 
derstood; but, coupled with the previous statements of Koojesse, 
and the information which I afterward obtained, it will be seen 
that the main facts about Frobisher's Expedition are well sup- 
ported by evidence. 

The old lady farther informed me that frequently, in her life- 
time, she had seen wood, chips, coal, and bricks, and large pieces 
of very heavy stone, on the island of Niounielik. 

This again puzzled me. What could " very heavy stone" 
mean ? I asked her " what kind of stone it was," and to this she 
replied, " It was black, and very heavy. No Innuits had ever 
seen such kind of stones before." 

This at once led me to conclude that the heavy stones were 
iron; and still more so when Tookoolito observed, " I think, from 
what the old lady says, these stones were very heavy, a small one 
being as much as an Innuit could lift. I think, perhaps," added 
she, " they were iron." " And so do I. By-and-by, I will see to 
it," was my reply. 

The information thus obtained seemed so clearly to bear upon 
Frobisher's Expedition that I determined, as soon as I could, to 
visit Niounielik, and ascertain all about the matter. I thought 
to myself, if such facts concerning an expedition which had been 
made nearly three hundred years ago can be preserved by the na- 
tives, and evidence of those facts obtained, what may not be glean- 
ed of Sir John Franklin's Expedition of only sixteen years ago ? 
The singular fate of La Perouse and his expedition was unknown 
to the civilized world for thirty-eight years, and then brought to 
light only by the exertions of one individual, Captain Dillon, an 
English master of a merchant ship ! Here, too, we have the first 
intimation of the fate of Frobisher's five men— after being shroud- 
ed in mystery for 285 years — all but determined by personal in- 
quiry among the natives ! Why not, then, be able to ascertain 
from the same natives — that is, of the same Innuit race — all those 
particulars so interesting, and many of them so important to sci- 
ence, concerning the Lost Polar Expedition? I was now con- 
vinced, more than I had ever been, that the whole mystery of 
their fate could have been, and may yet be easily determined with 
even the smallest well-directed aid. At all events, I felt that, 
while life and health sbould be spared me, I would devote my- 
self to this undertaking. 



THE DREADED LAND. 281 

Such was the current of my thoughts at the time I was in 
the old lady's topic and listening to her words ; and, let me add, 
such are now my thoughts, and, so far as may be permitted, such 
are my intentions. 

In continuation of my interview with the aged Innuit, I asked 
her why Innuits, as I had been informed, do not now live upon 
the land beyond Bear Sound, extending eastward between the 
waters of Frobisher Bay and Field Bay ? 

To this, as interpreted, she said, 

"A great many years ago, before I (Ookijoxy Ninoo) was 
born, the Innuits all around these bays were very many. The 
number of Innuits on Ki-ki-tuk-ju-a (Lok's Land of Frobisher) and 
the other islands in that direction was great; but at one time 
they were nearly all out on the ice, when it separated from the 
land and took them out to sea. They never came back, nor did 
any Innuit ever hear of them again. Since then, Innuits never 
live there, nor ever visit the place." 

As she spoke about this catastrophe she did so under evident 
feelings of constraint and horror; and when I asked if she had 
ever visited it, her emphatic reply was, "Never/ Never!" 

This accounted to me for much apparent mystery which I had 
noticed respecting the region in question whenever I addressed 
any Innuit upon the subject. They could not — or would not — 
give me any information about it; and when I once tried to get 
a company of natives to go there with me, all refused. Yet ev- 
ery year they make frequent passages, backward and forward 
through the channel Is-se-hi-su7i-ju-a (called by Frobisher Bear 
Sound), dividing the " ill-fated land" from the main. 

The old woman farther added that the Innuits had lived on 
that land, as Innuits do live — that is, moving about wherever 
food can be had — both before and after the white men's ships 
came years ago; but, since the great disaster occurred which 
swept so many of her people awaj 7 , no Innuits would go there. 

After eliciting all the information I then could from the old 
woman, I left her, with great astonishment at her powers of mem- 
ory, and the remarkable way in which this strange people of the 
icy North, who have no written language, can correctly preserve 
history from one generation to another. 

Nine generations had passed away since the visit of Frobisher, 
yet now, on the 11th of May, 1861,1 received from an old wom- 
an, probably a hundred years old, statements which I could not 



282 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

otherwise than believe to be facts concerning him and his co-ad- 
venturers ! I was astonished, and also, in a measure, pleased, for 
it gave me stronger hopes than ever of my being able thereafter 
to obtain all the knowledge I required concerning the expedition 
of Franklin. Meanwhile I determined upon revisiting Oopung- 
newing, and going to Niountclik as soon as possible. 

At this time all on board the George Henry were very busy in 
certain matters connected with the ship, such as refitting and pre- 
paring her for the time when she might proceed to other quar- 
ters for whaling operations. Boats on sledges, men and their ap- 
parel, sleeping-gear, and other necessary material, were daily sent 
off to the working depot at Cape True, in Frobisher Bay, so that 
on the 17th of May only three white men remained in the vessel. 

I now decided to make a sledge exploring trip up the Bay of 
Frobisher, as I could not depart for King William's Land till 
about the 1st of August, the earliest practicable moment of being 
able to commence my journey by boat to that locality. 

At this time Tookoolito was suddenly taken ill. It was on the 
evening of May 18th, when, as I was engaged upon my charts, 
Tookoolito aiding me in the Innuit names, I noticed she sudden- 
ly dropped her head, and, as I thought, to reflect upon something. 
But Sharkey's wife, who was sitting opposite, soon convinced me 
to the contrary by springing toward her. I saw what the matter 
was in a moment. Tookoolito had fainted; and, when aided by 
such means as were in my power, she soon revived, but a general 
prostration, accompanied by terrible pains in the head, ensued. 
As it was necessary for her to have immediate rest, she was placed 
in my berth, and the little girl, Ookoodlear, sent to attend upon 
her. 

Meanwhile I had another patient suddenly on my hands. Di- 
rectly Tookoolito revived, Mam-ma-yal-che-ung, wife of Sharkey, 
was seized with bleeding at the lungs. The poor woman, like 
many of her people, especially those of her sex, was in a rapid de- 
cline, and, as I thought, had not long to live. She had gone upon 
deck, where I found her coughing and vomiting up blood most 
fearfully. The snow-wreath at the gangway was crimsoned as if 
a bear's jugular had been opened there. I at once gave her a 
glass of alum water, which checked it after she had bled for some 
twenty minutes. She then wen) down to my cabin, and attended 
upon Tookoolito until the return of Ebierbing, who was greatly 
affected at the condition of his wife. 



EXCURSION TO THE HEAD OF FIELD BAY. 283 

Poor Tookoolito continued very sick for some days, but, with 
suck care and relief as could be given to her. she ultimately got 
wed enough to go about as usual. Perhaps the cause of her sick- 
ness was overexertion in moving their tupic from one island to 
another the day previous. It had been heavy work for her, but 
she had to do it, for the custom among Innuits is to make the 
women perform all such domestic and ordinary labor. 

Before leaving for my exploration of the Frobisker waters, 1 
determined to examine the head of Field Bay, the bay where we 
were now at anchor. I commenced this work at 9 A.M. of the 
20th of May. The Innuits Ebierbing and the angeko, with Mam- 
ma-nar-ping, one of the wives of the latter, were with me, though 
the two former only went part of the way, they leaving me to 
chase some reindeer, the tracks of which we found near the foot 
of Grinned Mountain. I myself, with the woman as guide and 
attendant, continued the trip alone. 

The traveling was very bad, in consequence of the snow hav- 
ing melted and formed several pools. Over these pools, which 
almost uniformly covered the sea-ice, was a thin coating of fresh- 
water-ice, not uniformly of sufficient thickness and strength to 
bear our walking upon it; indeed, but a small portion of it was 
firm enough to hold us up. "Whenever it gave way, down we 
would go, ankle deep, and sometimes deeper. Then, too, the daz- 
zling glare of the ice on the upper part of the bay caused addi- 
tional care and labor in w r alking. 

Every few rods we saw seals out on the ice, basking in the sun's 
rays. 

At 4 P.M. we made land, and there stopped to rest and dine. 
I had abundance of hard bread and a large piece of salt pork, and 
at that season of the year there was plenty of fresh water to be 
obtained. Thus we were able to make a good repast, and, after 
a short stay, proceed on our journey. 

Our way led us toward Alden Mountain ; :: and we had to go 
over an extensive plain, deeply covered with snow, which is at 
the head of Field Bay. Almost every half dozen steps were sure 
to be succeeded by a downfall of no pleasant character, and it was 
severe to me, besides being injurious to my box chronometer slung 
at my side. Never did I experience more annoying travel. A.- 
we proceeded it became much worse. Every few steps, down, 

• A mountain nt the extreme hend of Field Bay, which I have named nficr Charles 
Alden, of Newbury, New York. 



284 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

down we went, oftener waist-deep than otherwise. Sometimes the 
surface snow would appear firm, and then I had hope of all being 
right for our getting forward, but the next moment we were sink- 
ing to our hips in some treacherous spot. Occasionally I would 
be making fair headway, when my Innuit guide would go down, 
and, while trj'ing to help her up, the snow-crust would give way, 
and I then followed suit. It seemed as if it took three hours for 
us to make one mile. 

After much struggling we arrived at a small rocky hill, and, 
ascending it, an extensive view was before me. On the west 
of us I could see a lakelet, long and narrow, that extended in a 
northerly direction to the base of Alden Mountain. This lake- 
let, on my way back, proved to be influenced in its waters by the 
sea for two or three days at the periods of high tides — full and 
change. 

It was now 8 P.M. We were both much fatigued, and yet it 
would not do to remain. Not a blanket had we, nor any article 
that would serve to keep warmth in us during the night, which, 
however, was now daylight all through. The heavens were cov- 
ered with portentous clouds, and many circumstances led me to 
conclude it most advisable to return ; but I could hardly determ- 
ine in what direction it would be best to go. There were the 
plains, but they were covered deeply with the treacherous snow. 
As I reflected, a passage in the " Good Book" came to my mind : 
" Be angry, and sin not ;" but, whether I sinned or not, God only 
is my judge. This, however, I must confess : that as I walked on 
that treacherous snow-crust, every now and then going down, 
down, down, my temper at length would fly up, up, up, making 
the scale-beam keep dancing for full three hours, until some fair 
walking gave ease to my weary limbs and quiet to my ruffled 
soul. 

On a careful survey of the routes we could follow, I finally de- 
cided upon going to a low ridge which was farther west of us and 
free from snow. That ridge extended in a line running to the 
S.S.E., and lay in about the direction I wanted to go. To reach 
it we had to traverse along an abrupt Rand-bank bordering the 
lakelet already mentioned. "We then came to a beautiful grassy 
plain quite destitute of snow, and over which it was a perfect lux- 
ury to travel. All my weariness and pain were quite forgotten 
in walking across this carpet of Nature. It was surrounded by 
rugged, sombre, rocky mountains, and consequently appeared to 



FERTILE PLAINS.— NUMEROUS REINDEER. 285 

me like an oasis in the great desert. For nearly one year I had 
sighted nothing but rocks, rocks, rocks, here, there, and every 
where, piled into mountains of such varied and horrible shapes 
that they seemed as if created to strike terror into the heart of 
man ; and now to fall thus unexpectedly upon a plain covered 
with grass, yielding so friendly and " down"-like to my aching 
feet, particularly under the circumstances described, was enough 
for me to express my great joy and admiration. 

It is said that the name Greenland was given to that land by 
the Norwegians and Icelanders because it looked greener than 
Iceland. I could, therefore, on my trip across that grassy plain, 
fully appreciate their feelings on beholding a greener land than 
their own. Yet many a one going directly from the United 
States and visiting Greenland would from the bottom of his soul 
exclaim, 

" This Greenland ! Then, indeed, have I come into a Paradise, 
but into that of which Milton speaks : 

" ' o'er the back side of the world far off, 

Into a limbo large and broad, since called 
The Paradise of Fools' " 

With reference to the plain I crossed over, Tookoolito after- 
ward informed me that in 1860 a company of Iunuits, herself and 
Ebierbing of the number, spent three weeks in passing over the 
land amid the mountains, and on other plains of great extent 
westward of Cornelius Grinnell Bay. Their trip was made for 
a reindeer hunt. On their way, and running northwest from the 
plain near what I have called Alden Mountain, was another plain, 
extending in every direction as far as the eye could reach. This 
convinced me that in general arctic navigators know but little 
about the interior of the northern country. Earely any thing but 
the coasts are seen and explored. On the trip I am now referring 
to I saw more level ground than since I left the United States. 
Nothing in Greenland that I saw could compare with it. 

Tookoolito also informed me that reindeer visit those plains in 
great numbers. On their excursion they killed as many as they 
wanted ; and so numerous were the deer that they might be com- 
pared to flocks of sheep. Much of the meat they had obtained 
during the hunt was left behind. The fawns were chased down 
by the Innuits and caught ; as she said, " their feet being dry, they 
could not run well. When the feet of tuktoo are wet, they can 
go much faster over the mountain rock 



286 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

From information I afterward obtained, the plains here spoken 
of appeared to be well known to our friendly Innuits as a breed- 
ing-place for the deer; and the whole country between Frobisher 
Bay and Niountelik (a place in the north part of Northumberland 
Inlet) had been frequently traversed by several of the intelligent 
natives who visited us; but, unless discreetly questioned, it is 
rare for an Esquimaux to say much of himself, his people, or his 
native land. It is only by degrees, and by a long association 
with them, that any one can elicit any material facts. 

At half past 10 P.M. we were on the top of another mountain. 
Here we had something more to eat ; and then, proceeding to the 
sea-ice, directed our steps toward the vessel. The walk was one 
of great labor, yet not so trying to the temper as that of some pre- 
vious portion of the clay. 

At three o'clock in the morning we arrived on board of the 
ship, completely exhausted with the fatiguing journey, made, dur- 
ing eighteen hours, over a distance of about twenty-five miles. 



SUCCESSFUL DEER-HUNT. 287 



CHAPTER XVII. 

A successful Deer-hunt. — Venison. — Another Journey. — Se-ko-se-lur Innuits. — 
The Land Pass. — Magnificent Scenery. — Countess of Warwick Sound. — Impor- 
tant Discovery. — Piece of Brick. — Relic of Frobisher's Expedition. — Sledge-drive 
in n Snow-storm. — A Whirl in the Snow.— An involuntary Slide. — Value of a 
Compass. — Safe Arrival on Board. — Anniversary of Departure from Home. — 
State of the Ice. — "Man-traps." — The Whale De'pGt. — Plenty of fresh Meat. — 
Stranger Innuits arrive. — A startling Tale. — Two Boats of White Men land on 
the Coast. — First Idea concerning them. — After-knowledge of the Truth. — Loss 
of the English Store-ship Kitty. — The Locality of Sekoselar. — Innuit Informa- 
tion. — Head of Frobisher Bay. — Tradition of Parry's Voyage. — Old Innuits re- 
member visiting him. — Extract from his Narrative. — Sekoselar Innuits dislike 
civilization Food. — "Barbarous Stuff." — Strange Dialect. — Physical Superiority 
of the Sekoselar Men. 

The following day, May 21st, 1861, Ebierbing and Mingumailo 
returned from their deer-hunt. They had been successful, hav- 
ing shot with a rifle of mine three deer, one of which was lost, and 
the other two were secured. It appeared that Ebierbing first shot 
one of a group of eight which they came across. It struggled 
and fell before he could approach the spot, but rose again and ran 
away. In a moment more, however, he managed to shoot anoth- 
er, and Mingumailo a third. Thus was secured to us several 
hundred pounds of fresh meat — venison. 

The deer were killed high up in the mountains, and the two 
hunters had to carry the carcasses (portions at a time) a distance 
of two miles down to the sea-ice, where they made a cache by 
piling on heavy stones. What they could carry of it to the ship 
they did, and all of us on board had an excellent feast. 

About this time we heard that some Innuits had arrived at 
Sampson's settlement from the " Sekoselar" mentioned in a note 
at page 178. The news made me still more anxious to proceed 
on my exploring trip, but various causes tended to prolong my 
delay, and, even when ready for the excursion, I was unable to 
proceed farther than a day's journey. 

The Esquimaux arc good as guides, as companions, as hunters 
and purveyors of food, but it is impossible to place any great de- 
pendence upon them in keeping faith as to time, or one's wishes 



288 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

on a journey. They u-ill do just as they please ; and if aught is 
seen that may serve them for food, they will away in chase, no 
matter how much delay is thereby occasioned in a white manV 
enterprise, or however great the loss and inconvenience. In my 
case, absolutely dependent upon them for aid in exploring, I could 
do nothing but exercise my patience to the fullest degree. Hence 
it was not until the 27th of May that I was able to start on anoth- 
er trip to the waters of Frobisher Bay. 

At that season of the year, traveling over the ice and snow- 
covered land by day was almost impossible. The slush and the 
numerous pools of water upon the former rendered a passage not 
only very difficult, but often dangerous ; and, upon the land, the 
fatigue occasioned was more than could be well endured. Night, 
therefore, was chosen for our journeys, unless occasion required 
us to continue on during the day. 

Accordingly, at 10 P.M. of the 27th of May I started from the 
ship with dogs and sledge, after having my outfit well attended 
to by Tookoolito. She was unable to accompany her husband, 
who had joined my company. The rest of my companions were 
two Innuit men and two women, one of them being Punnie, and 
the other a beautiful young woman called An-nu-tik-er-tung, wife 
of Kus-se-e-ung. Myself and the two women led the way, and 
in about an hour arrived where the upper village had been dur- 
ing the winter. Here we stopped to collect various things be- 
longing to the Innuits who were with me, and which they had 
left there when departing for Frobisher Bay. We also stopped 
at another spot not far off, and collected tent-poles, coverings, kia 
frames, buckets, skins, etc., making a very considerable addition 
to our already heavy load. It was an hour and a half past mid- 
night when we again started, but our foot travel was now good, 
the best of the season, the ice being firm during the night. 

During the walk I had an interesting conversation with Ebier- 
bing, who, among other things, told me of the great price the 
Sekoselar Innuits were willing to give for any articles of iron. A 
small piece of good iron, suitable for a spear-head, would procure 
a seal or tuktoo jacket from them, and with a needle one could 
purchase a deerskin. The Sekoselar Innuits can only obtain iron 
occasionally, when a communication is had with natives living on 
the coast. They still use bone needles, bows, and arrows. 

As we neared the land on the opposite side of Field Bay the 
sun was tipping the mountains with red. It was then nearly 



A RAGING SEA TEASING UP ICE. 289 

half past 2 A.M., and I also noticed that clouds were bugging 
some of the high lands. This indicated a coming storm. At 

45 A.M. we passed from the bay to the main land, and now it 
began to blow strongly from the southwest. I selected the lee 
side of some rocks and took several compass bearings, then pro- 
ceeded on my way alone, the rest of my party, with the sledge, 
having gone on before. I overtook them at the summit of Bay- 
ard Taylor Pass, and then together we began the descent on the 
other side. 

I have already spoken of this Pass, but each time I traversed it 

1 could not help being transfixed with wondering awe. Near the 
western termination of this pass each side is walled by bold, crag- 
gy mountains, and the scenery there is truly magnificent. Well 
might I exclaim, as I did on viewing it, Great God, thy works 
are indeed mighty ! Shortly after, when we reached the frozen 
waters of the bay, the dogs and sledge carried us along past scen- 
ery ever changing and remarkable. While crossing this, I j udged 
it to be Frobishers Countess of Warwick Sound. 

Our course this time, owing to a wide gap in the ice, led us to 
the north of Oopungnewing, as we intended to make for the low 
point of land called Twerpukjua; hence we passed the island at 
some little distance. Here, when nearest to it, Punnic left us to 
go to Annawa's settlement; and after resting a while, employing 
the time in sealing, we again proceeded. Niountelik Island we 
passed about a quarter of a mile off, and then, at 10 A.M., we ar- 
rived at Twerpukjua. 

When approaching the shore-ice we met a party of Innuits 
with a sledge and team of dogs going to the vessel, having just 
come from the island where I had been April 25th and 26th, 
while staying with Sampson. Among them were Johnny Pull, 
his wife Kokerzhun, and Xew-wer-che, one of the most enterpris- 
ing and energetic Innuits with whom I was acquainted. They 
reported that the ice had broken up, and said it would be impos- 
sible for me to proceed on my journey by sledge. This I soon 
perceived to be the case. While consulting with them, I could 
lite enough to convince me so. The wind was then blow- 
ing strong from the south. A heavy sea was at work tearing up 
the ice between Niountelik and Twerpukjua. To where we were, 
the distance from the raging, open sea was not two hundred fath- 
oms. 

It was a trial to me to give up this trip, yet I acted as I believe 

T 



290 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

a wise man should, and accordingly determined to abandon the 
attempt and try it by boat. I therefore ordered our return ; but, 
as I wished to examine the islands of Oopungnewing and Nioun- 
telik, I proposed to Ebierbing that we should stay three or four 
days at Annawa's; and, to prevent our being encumbered with 
so much baggage as I had brought for an extended trip, told him 
to make a transfer of it from our sledge to John Bull's, who would 
take it back to the ship. 

While this transfer was being made, my eye accidentally caught 
sight of a piece of brick, among sundry odds and ends of Innuit 
articles brought from the upper village at the head of Field Ba} r . 
While looking upon it, I called to mind the stor} 7 I had heard 
from old Ookijox} 7 Ninoo about relics of this kind seen on Nioun- 
telik, and I at once asked Kusseeung and Arng-mer-che-ung what 
it was. They replied, " Stone" — a stone that the old mother of 
the latter had given him a long time ago. I then asked from 
whence she got it, and both Inuuits immediately pointed to the 
island Niountelik, which was less than half a mile from where 
we stood. 

Ebierbing took this bright-colored brick from my hand, looked 
at it, and said, "That is the same as I have seen on that island,'" 
pointing to Niountelik. He then added, " Many of my acepjaint- 
ances up the inlet (meaning Northumberland) have pieces of the 
same kind that came from that island." 

My feelings upon seeing the piece of brick, and hearing what 
was said about it, may be easily imagined. There, in my hand, 
was undoubtedly a relic of that expedition which had visited the 
place only eighty-six years after the discovery of America by 
Columbus, since which time it has remained unknown to the civ- 
ilized world ! This relic, then, was more precious to me than the 
gold which Frobisher sought there under the direct patronage of 
Queen Elizabeth. Until now no proof had existed that Frobisher 
and his expedition ever visited the particular bay or "straits" 
bearing his name ; but, from all that I had gathered from the in- 
formation given mc by the natives, and from what I had now 
seen, a strong conviction rested on my mind that it was so, and 
doubt was at an end. 

After stopping at Twcrpukjua nearly three hours, I bade adieu 
to those of my Innuit friends who were going to Sampson's, and 
proceeded toward Annawa's at Oopungnewing. Johnny Bull and 
his party took their way to the ship, Ebierbing accompanying me. 



LINCOLN BAY AND BAYAKD TAYLOR BASS. 291 

When near Oopungnewiug, we saw Punnie coming to meet us, 
and soon she gave us the information that Annawa and the whole 
settlement had gone to Og-bier-seer-o-ping (Cape True), and now 
not a tupie remained. Here again was another disappointment. 
I had no tent with me, having left my own at the vessel, and it 
would not do to remain without shelter, as a gale was even then 
blowin°\ therefore we had no alternative but to return. Accord- 
ingly, we rejoined Johnny Bull with his party, and were soon on 
our wa} 7 , at a swift speed over the ice, toward the land pass. 

Our backs were nearly to the wind and snow, and therefore our 
trouble from this source was far less than if facing it. The gale 
helped us greatly a part of the way back. It drove the sledge 
sometimes faster than the dogs could go ; thus occasionally they 
were dragged along instead of their drawing us. Besides this, the 
strong wind had closed the gap which we had been obliged to 
avoid in the morning, and we now traversed the ice as safely as 
though we were passing over a marbled floor. 

Soon afterward we came to the glare ice of Lincoln Bay,* which 
is on this (the west) side of the Bayard Taylor Pass. Here the 
wind and snow played fantastic tricks with the sledge, dogs, and 
all our company. We were in company with the other Innuits, 
but Joe, myself, and Johnny Bull were footing it while passing 
along this bay. Had the wind been against us all would have 
been well, but it came quartering on our right hand and at our 
backs, and this caused numerous eddies and snow-wreaths. 

We were ahead of the sledge, intending to jump upon it as it 
passed. After resting a while, on it came ; and, watching the op- 
portunity, Joe and Johnny were fortunately able to spring on, 
but I could not. Just as I made my attempt, a terrific gust sent 
me whirling along for nearly a quarter of a mile over the glassy 
ice. Then my feet caught upon a firm snow-wreath, and I stuck 

* There are three important bays that mako up from the ever-memorable "Count- 
ess of Warwick Sound," which was discovered and so named by Frobisher nearly 
three centuries ago. The geographical position of this sound, as well ns the nature 
and extent of Frobisher " Strait" (a misnomer, for it is a bay), remained unknown Jo 
the civilized world from the dnys of Queen Elizabeth down to 18G0-2, when I had 
the good fortune to rediscover, examine, and determine much relating to Frobisher's 
Expeditions of 157G, 7, and '8. 

The three bays — important on account of their geographical and historical connec- 
ti ma — I have named, 1st. Lincoln Bay; 2d. Victoria Bay; and, 3d. Napoleon Bay, 
after three distinguished personages of the present day, to nit, the President of the 
United States of America, the Queen of England, and the Emperor of France. {Vide 
Chart.) 



292 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

fast till I gathered my senses to look round and see where I was. 
It was snowing fast and furiously, and what with that coming 
down, and that thrown upward by the wind, every object three 
or four fathoms distant was hidden from sight. Fortunately, the 
almost perpendicular side of a mountain that I had before noticed 
was within a distance that could be seen. From this I struck a 
course leading up the bay to the land-route. In a short time I 
had overtaken the party, which had been detained by one of the 
dogs giving out. Casting it off, I took a seat upon the sledge, 
and away we went merrily toward the Pass. As we drove along 
we were a curious sight to behold, for we resembled a living 
snow-bank. 

We ascended the Pass on foot, crossed the summit, descended 
on the other side, and again made the sea-ice of Field Bay. Here 
two more of our dogs gave out, and we cast them adrift, though 
they still followed us. "We had nine remaining, and this made a 
good team. 

We rested half an hour, then started again, the Innuits endeav- 
oring to find their way, as usual, by the previous sledge-tracks ; 
but we had to go this way and that way, in and out among the 
numerous islands covering the head of the bay, until finally all 
traces of our route were lost. Nevertheless, they would have found 
a course to the ship, though, pierhaps, with some delay and difficul- 
ty, but I saved all this by using my compass, and thus directing 
them which way to go, and by 9 P.M. we were on board, having 
been absent only 22^- hours. 

The following day, May 29th, was the anniversary of our de- 
parture from the United States. My thoughts at that time I find 
mentioned in my diary as follows : 

" One year ago to-day the George Hem-y sailed from New Lon- 
don. It seems to me a short year, though spent in regions that, to 
many civilized men, would be repulsive, and would appear unqual- 
ified desolation. Still, I like this country — not as a place in which 
to spend all my life, if it be one of fourscore and ten years, but for 
toork to be continued three or five years." 

On the following day, as there appeared to be some indications 
of its turning out fine, I thought of taking a trip to a place called 
by the Innuits Sing-ey-er. Accordingly, I procured the services 
of Ebierbing and started; but in two hours afterward there came 
on thick weather, and every indication of a storm. We had, 
therefore, to abandon the journey and return. While we were 



MAX-TRAPS.— STARTLING NEWS. ^,i;, 

out, however, and I was engaged taking observations, I beard a 
cry. "Mr. Hall I" I looked around, and saw Ebierbing, at a little 
distance oft", crawling out of a bole in the ice into which he had 
fallen. I hastened to his assistance, but before my arrival he was 
out, and fortunately without any injury. 

As I have before mentioned, it is risky traveling on the sea-ice 
at this season of the year, on account of pools of water just be- 
neath a covering of snow. A traveler passing along over an ap- 
parently excellent route often finds himself unexpectedly floun- 
dering in water, and the cause of this danger may be explained 
in the following manner: 

I examined several of these " man-traps" — as they really prove 
to be — and found large leaves of seaweed within these holes in 
the ice. Any extraneous matter, such as this seaweed, stones, 
ashes, etc., put on the surface of the ice, absorbs the solar heat, 
and soon sinks down into the ice, forming a water-hole not only 
the size of the object itself, but encircling quite a space around. 
A driving storm may afterward cover the surface with snow, and 
thus make a perfect man-trap. 

Soon after our return on board there was an arrival from Cape 
True, where the George Henry s officers and men were staying to 
prosecute whaling. I learned that they were all doing well in 
the way of fresh food, ducks, walrus, etc., being abundant. 

On the second day of June a parly of Sekoselar Innuits, six in 
number, came to the ship, and we soon became very friendly to- 
gether. At first these natives said nothing very particular far- 
ther than that they had visited the Hudson Bay Company's 
ships while passing up and down; nor should I have obtained 
any other news had it not been elicited almost by accident. In 
fact, unless there be some motive to engage them in conversation 
with strangers, the Esquimaux are seldom communicative. It is 
as if the knowledge which they possess ought not to be 
away unless for some especial reasons. The Innuits, as a race, 
are naturally reticent. They arc often distant and reserved, and 
only by kindness, tact, and gradually leading up to a subject can 
any information be obtained from them. Thus it was not until 

1 lowing day, when a letter arrived from Captain B , that 

I learned of these Esquimaux being acquainted with some facts 
concerning while people dying at Selcoselar. The captain had heard 
it so reported by other natives, and wrote to me that I might 
make some inquiries about it. 



294 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

On the receipt of this letter I immediately sent for Ebierbing 
and Tookoolito to come on board and act as interpreters. I then 
invited the two Sekoselar men (by name Ook-goo-al-loo and Too- 
loo-ka-ah) into the cabin, and opened a conversation, in which 
both participated. Tookoolito was the principal speaker, and she 
interpreted very well my own questions and their answers. That 
her interpretation was correct, and equally so their information, 
has, since my return home, been proved by facts, which at that 
time I was unaccpiainted with. Indeed, I then misapplied the 
story, firmly believing it to bear upon the lost Franklin Expedi- 
tion. What that story was may be seen in the following sub- 
stance of all which was related to me through Tookoolito : 

The Sekoselar Innuits said that " no kodlunas (whites) had 
ever been to or ever died at Sekoselar, but two years previous to 
this time two kodluna boats, with many oars (meaning many oars- 
men), arrived at a place farther down (at Karmoivong*) — so they, 
the Sekoselars, had heard — and there stopped a while ; how long, 
whether one or two days, was not known. That these kodlunas 
had plenty guns, plenty powder, plenty shot, 2}lenty balls, and 
plenty small casks of provision. They had many tuktoo skins 
(reindeer furs) to wrap around their bodies and their feet. 

" To make their boats not so deep in the water, the kodlunas 
(whites) took out amasuadlo (a great many) balls and placed them 
on a rock. The Innuits at that place, and in the vicinity where 
the kodlunas landed, thought the balls were soft stones. They 
supposed the whites had come from ships that had been lost or 
wrecked in the ice. 

" When these whites left the land they went farther down to- 
ward the big sea. 

" The whites had arrived at Karmowong in the fall of the } - car, 
one day when the weather was very bad, wind blowing very 
hard, and snowing fast. It was very cold too. 

"The Karmowong Innuits thought the whites had obtained 
their tuktoo furs of the Sekoselar men. The skins had on the 
winter coat of the tuktoo. None of the kodlunas died there. 
They all went away in boats, and the Innuits never saw or heard 
of them more." 

From farther questions that I put, and which were readily an- 

* I think Karmowong to be the islands called by Baffin " Middle Savage Islands," 
north side of Hudson's Strait. Indeed, it may also include, quite an extensive bay 
in that neighborhood, which the Esquimaux sketched for me as being there- 



NOT OK FRANKLIN'S LOST CREWS. 295 

swered, I concluded in my own mind that the kodlunas must have 
been at Karmowong in the fall of 1858, and the way the Seko- 
selar Iunuits keard-of it was by a native man who had seen the 
whites and the two boats. 

Now, upon receiving this information, I at length came to the 
conclusion that it referred to some of Franklin's lost crews. Two 
boats of white men going toward the great sea, and apparently 
subsisting upon Innuit food, with reindeer skins for wrappers, and 
other such material, would seem to indicate that a few of the long- 
lost voyagers had at last made their way from King William's 
Land and Boothia toward the goal of their ultimate deliverance. 
The experience I had already gained of Esquimaux life proved to 
me what white men could endure under the exigency of circum- 
stances. There was myself — not reduced to any such absolute 
necessity as the poor English voyagers undoubtedly must have 
been — yet capable of sustaining and even of enjoying life among 
the natives. How much more so, then, the unfortunate men of 
Franklin's wrecked ships? To me the matter seemed conclusive, 
although I could not give implicit confidence to what I had heard 
until personally testing the truth by examination. 

On my return to the States, however, I find that the whole sto- 
ry must have had reference to the loss of a British vessel called 
the Kitty, which was crushed in the ice of Hudson's Strait in the 
fall of 1859, and the crew obliged to escape by two boats. Some 
of the particulars of their history remarkably coincide with the in- 
formation given to me by the Sekoselar Innuits, as may be seen 
in the Appendix No. 9. 

Another instance of the faithful preservation of traditions 
among the Innuits, and also of the accuracy of their reports when 
communicated freely, is to be found in the following additional in- 
formation given to me by the Sekoselar natives. 

In seeking to obtain the truth concerning the two boats and 
white men, I induced Ookgooalloo to sketch me his "country" on 
paper. lie did so, and by that sketch I was convinced that Se- 
koselar was not the King's Cape of Fox, as I had at one time sup- 
posed, but lies east of it, extending along the coast on the north 
side of Hudson's Strait about two degrees; say from longitude 
75° west to longitude 73° west. This, then, would fill the blank 
on Parry's chart of that locality, and give to it, as the Innuit 
showed me, a deep bay, flanked by low lands, with a narrow isth- 
mus between the waters of this bay and the head of Frobisher 
Bay, thus shown so to be, instead of a " strait." 



296 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

The sketch which was drawn by Ookgooalloo extended from 
above Fox's Farthest down to King's Cape, and thence along the 
north shore of Hudson's Strait to North Bay, where the upper 
Savage Islands are situated. " North Bluff" is adjoining that 
bay, and is called by Innuits Ki-uh-tvk-jvra, and King's Cape, Xoo- 
ook-ju-a. When the Sekoselar party left home in the previous 
year, i860, they traveled, as Innuits generally do, very slou: In 
the fall they arrived at the head waters of Frobisher Inlet, and 
Ookgooalloo marked upon his sketch the track they pursued 
from Sekoselar to the place where they commenced the land route 
across the isthmus. The head waters of Frobisher Bay they call- 
ed See-see-ark-j u-a, and into it ran, according to his account (which 
I afterward found true), a river of fresh water, sometimes very 
large, and containing salmon in abundance. During the winter 
of 1860-1 this party of natives made their way down the bay till 
they came across " Sampson" and his people, at the place which I 
had visited a short time previous. 

Ookgooalloo then told me "that ships did not come in sight at 
Sekoselar, nor at Noo-ook-ju-a, but his father, Koo-ook-jum, had 
said that many years ago two ships came close to Noo-ook-ju-a 
(King's Cape) and Sekoselar, and that he, Koo-ook-jum, with 
many other Innuits, went out to the ships in kias and oomiens, 
and went on board." 

Now these two ships could be no other than Parry's, in his ex- 
pedition of 1821-23, and consequently it was full forty years since 
the occurrence now mentioned took place. Parry's account is as 
follows : 

"July 31s/, 1821. Latitude 64° 01', longitude 75° 10' west. In 
the afternoon Captain Lyon discovered and made the signal for an 
Esquimaux 'oomiak coming off from shore under sail, accompa- 
nied \>j eight canoes. "We tacked to meet them, and lay to half 
an hour for the purpose of adding to our stock of oil. In this 
boat were sixteen persons, of which number two only were men, 
an old and a young one, and the rest women and children. In 
the features, dress, and implements of these people we saw noth- 
ing different from those of the Esquimaux last described (those 
of the Savage Islands), but they were better behaved than the oth- 
ers, with whom our ships (meaning the Hudson Bay Conrpany's 
ships) have had more frequent intercourse." 

Again, under date of August 1st, Parry continues : 

" We beat to the westward, between Nottingham Island and 



l K.VMTIOX OF PABBY'S SUITS. 297 

the north shore (King's Cape), the distance between -which is about 
four leagues, and the latter fringed with numerous islands. In 
the course of the morning several canoes and one oomiak came 
off from the main land, containing about twenty persons, more than 
hall' of whom were women and children. They brought a little 
oil, some skin dresses, and tusks of the walrus, which they were 
desirous of exchanging for any trifle we chose to give them.'' 

In this account we see a complete verification of the statement 
made by Ookgooalloo as to his father's visit to the only ships 
known to have been near his own " country." And I the more 
particularly allude to it because of many other reports given to 
me concerning the past, all of which, in my.opinion, have received 
equal confirmation. 

The natives from Sekoselar were not partial to civilized food, 
especially Ookgooalloo and his wife Pittikzhe, for they had not 
tasted any before. We gave each of them a mug of coffee and 
some sea-biscuit. They tasted it — spit it out — tried it again and 
again, and finall}' the man contrived to " worry" it down ; but the 
woman gave it up, declaring, in her own Innuit way, that " such 
stuff was not fit to eat." Though repeatedly urged to participate 
in the regular meals served to the Esquimaux on board, Pittikzhe 
positively declined tasting any more "such barbarous food." 

I found that the Innuits of Sekoselar had a very peculiar way 
of speaking — that is, with a slow, drawling tone. Their words are 
: 'long drawn out." The natives in our locality made fun of this, 
and it still more convinced me that there is a considerable vari- 
ance between the dialects of different bands of the Esquimaux. 
Another thing I noticed was the physical superiority of these men 
over those living around Field Bay, and along the coasts visited 
by whaling ships. "Whether all of the Sekoselar people were 
equal to those whom I saw I am unable to say, but "Sampson," 
who was also a native of that district, showed, as I have before 
said, to similar advantage when compared with the Innuits in our 
vicinity. 

After making these men and women several presents, for which 
they expressed much gratitude, they departed at 5 P.M. on their 
return to Sampson's tupio, then near Eviction, about one day's 
journey N. W. of Oopungnew in 



298 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Journey to the Unknown, or "Dreaded Land." — Slender Outfit. — Abundance of 
Seal-meat soon taken. — Bad Weather. — Sylvia Island. — Lnnton Channel. — 
Jones's Tower. — A Butterfly. — Tupie Encampment. — Magnificent Iceberg. — 
Dine on raw Seal. — New Land. — Remarkable Gap. — Cape Daly. — Hummocky 
Ice. —Ancient Piles of Stones. — Discover a new Channel. — Dr. Kane's Channel. 
— Immense number of Seals. — Great Slaughter. — Koodloo still fears the "Dreaded 
Land." — Charming a Seal. — Abundance of Animal Life. — Arrive at the extreme 
Land. — Ascend a high Mountain. — Ancient Monuments. — Extensive View. — 
Davis's Straits. — Frobisher Bay. — Meta Incognita. — Resolution Island, and high 
Land to the North. — Sudden appearance of a Steam-ship. — Disappointment. — 
Mount Warwick. — A Bear-hunt. — North Foreland. — Return Journey. — Mode 
of making Traces and Walrus Lines. — Note-book Lost. — Its Recovery. — Heavy 
Snow-storm.- — Encamp on a large Island. — Ancient Dwellings of Innuits. — Rapid 
Journey back to the Ship. — Dangerous Traveling. — Ice breaking up. — Safe ar- 
rival on Board. — Means of sustaining Life in these Regions. 

On Wednesday, the 5th day of June, 1861, a day or two after 
the departure of the Sekoselar Innuits, I prepared myself for an- 
other trip, intending this time to visit what the Innuits term the 
"Dreaded Land," which comprises all the islands eastward of 
Bear's Sound and">Lupton Channel, between Frobisher Bay and 
Field Bay. As was necessary, I left on board the ship some in- 
structions how to find me and my companions in case the ice, 
which was becoming very precarious, should break up, and leave 
us on some of the islands unable to get away. My intention was 
to fall back upon the land should the ice break up, and then, if 
we had to be sought, it would be necessary to look for us some- 
where between Hall's Island and Bear Sound."- 

On the 5th of June, at about three o'clock in the afternoon, in 
company with Ebierbing and Koodloo, I left Bescue Harbor, and 
set out for the " Dreaded Land." Our sledge was drawn by six 
dogs, just half the number that such a journey required. Our 
progress was slow ; for, besides the want of a sufficient team, we 
saw many seals, the ice being dotted over with them, and the In- 

* Hall's Island, hit. 02° 33' N, long. 64° 00' W., and Bear Sound, lat. G2° 31' N., 
long. G-t° 50' W., were so named by Frobisher; the former after Christopher Hall, 
master of the Gabriel, of the expedition of 1676; the latter after James Bear, mas- 
ter of the Michael, one of the expedition vhi]s of 1.177. 



DILLON MOUNTAIN.— LOK'S LAND.— LUPTON CHANNEL. 299 

nuits consumed much time in making their peculiar cautious ap- 
proaches (elsewhere described), which are always necessary in 
order to take these animals. Koodloo is a good sealer. Having 
selected his game, he succeeded in crawling up to within thirteen 
fathoms of the seal, and shot him in the head. In five minutes we 
who were on the sledge arrived at the spot where our prize lay 
by his hole, when a general dog-fight took place. 

The weight of fresh meat thus obtained being no less than 200 
pounds, we found ourselves in the predicament of the man who 
bought the elephant. "What should wc do with our seal ? Final- 
ly, we fastened it behind the sledge, dragged it to a convenient 
place, and cut it up ; took with us a part of the meat and blubber 
for present use, and deposited the remainder era cache — that is, we 
buried it under snow by the side of a hummock, and tarried a 
while to have a raw seal-feast. 

In the evening, after our repast, we resumed our journey, pro- 
ceeding at first in the direction of Dillon Mountain,* at the east 
end of " Lok's Land,"-)- but changed our course at ten o'clock on 
account of hummocks, and now proceeded due south toward Lup- 
ton Channel. £ Some time after midnight w r e made our first en- 
campment on the ice, and lay down to repose upon a couch of 
snow. 

At 10 30 A.M. of June 6th we resumed our journey, and soon 
after observed a seal upon the ice ; but, as we were to windward, 
it scented us, and down it went. We were still among hum- 
mocks, and enveloped in fog. Before noon the fog lifted, and we 
found ourselves in sight of land near Lupton Channel. We stop- 
ped a while opposite the entrance to this channel for a seal which 

* This prominent and peaked mountain I have named in honor of a warm friend 
of arctic explorations, J. D. Dillon, of London, England. It is in lat. G2° 32' N., and 
long. 04° 12' W. 

t The land which I think I have identified as the one so named by Frobishcr in 
honor of Michael Lok, one of the earliest, wannest, and most liberal supporters of his 
(Frobisher's) expeditions of 157G, 7, and '8. 

"Lok's Land'' is an island on the cast side of Bear Sound and Lupton Channel, 
and extends easterly eighteen nautical miles ; its width is twelve miles. It is called 
I'V the natives Ki-ki-tub-ju-a, which means Long Island. The ccntro of "Lok's 
Land" is in lat. 02° 29' N., long. 01° 28' W. (Sec Chart.) 

t I have named the channel uniting the wnters of Field Bay to Bear Sound after 
James Lupton, of Cincinnati, Ohio, one to whom the Young Men's Mercantile Asso- 
ciation of said city owes a debt of gratitude for his great and untiring service in its 
behalf. 

Lupton Channel (its north termination) is in lat. C2° 35' N., and long. G4° 38' W. 



300 



ARCTIC EESEAECH EXPEDITION. 



was discovered ahead. But seal, land, mountains, and clouds be- 
came closed in by thick fog; a snow-storm came on from the 
W.N.W., and it soon blew a gale. 

This weather compelling us to hold over, we all left the sledge 
and dogs, and went a few rods on to the land, to prospect for a 
suitable spot for an encampment. We found one by the side of 
a mountain of rock. Here we broke up a beam — a part of our 
sledge — for fuel to prepare our coffee. We ought, for this pur- 
pose, to have taken with us more of the ooksook of the seal taken 
the day previous ; but we expected to have captured another by 
that time. We saw two in the morning, but they were shy, and 
went down. Had it not been for the hummocks, we should have 
pursued our course toward Hall's Island ; but it requires weather 
in which one can see more than five fathoms ahead to travel safe- 
ly over such ice. 

The land on which we here encamped is an island about a 
quarter of a mile long, which I have named Sylvia*,* at the east 
side of the entrance to Lupton Channel. When on the highest part 
of it, about 500 feet above the sea, I drew the followine; sketch. 




TXSW PB02I Tin: TOP OP byi.via [SLAHD. 



* After the daughter of Henry GrinnelL Sylvia Island is in lat. G2° 35i' N., 
long. 64° 36' W. 



VIEW Fill i.U THE TUP OF SYLVIA ISLAND.— JONES'S T( (WEB. #01 

Here before me, looking southerly, was the open water of Lup- 
ton Channel, which, as my native attendants informed me, never 
freezes over, in consequence of the swiftly-running tides. Yonder, 
leading southeasterly around the bold front of Lok's Laud, is Bear 
Sound; there, farther south, the low islands; and, showing dark- 
ly over these, the open water of Frobisher Bay, and away in the 
blue distance the huge mountains of Kingaite {Mela Incognita) ; 
while there, on the right, and on the left, and behind me, all was 
solid ice. 

On Friday, June 7th, having slept soundly on the rock, we 
breakfasted on raw seal, and, with the aid of more fuel (another 
cross-bar) from our sledge, made some hot coffee, which indeed is 
a great luxury at any time to an arctic traveler. Not long after, 
Ebierbing started on ahead, while Koodloo struck tupic, harness- 
ed the dogs, and packed the kummitie, and I triangulated and 
made observations for time, latitude, etc. With beautiful weather 
and a cloudless sky, Koodloo and myself left Sylvia Island, though 
not before half past 1 P.M., and traveled on the ice along the coast 
toward a noble-looking mountain not far off. The dogs flew, for 
they scented and sighted seals in the bay. At 3 o'clock P.M. 
we arrived at the base of Jones's Tower,* the mountain just al- 
luded to. 

A short time after this I began to ascend Jones's Tower, the 
mountain which I especially observed for the first time some 
months before, when entering Field Bay. When near the sum- 
mit I made the following entry in my note-book : 

•• -f -17 P.M. With my glass I see that Ebierbing has just killed 
a seal. Thank God for our daily bread (seal), while we study 
His glorious works. Thirty seals around the little bay on the 
ice by their holes, sunning." 

At the top of the tower I took several observations, and then 
attempted to descend on the opposite side to that by which I had 
climbed up. But I found here, as I had before, that going down 
a precipitous mountain is much worse than going up it. I could 
not manage it by the new route, and therefore had to reascend in 
order to take the other. 

From the summit of this mountain the view was extensive, 
yet I could not thence discern Frobisher Bay, although, as I then 

* A mountain I have named after George T. Jones, superintendent of the Cincin- 
nati branch of the American Bank Note Company. Jones's Tower is in lat. 62 
».,loDg.M c 84'W. (See Chart.) 



302 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



thought, it was not more than from five to seven miles off. I here 
found a butterfly just bursting its prison walls. The wind at the 
time was so strong as almost to defy my power of holding on. 
The place looked like a huge tower rather than a mountain ; and 
on one side of it there was, as it were, a broad highway, leading 
spirally to within fifty feet of the apex. From this elevation a 
hundred icebergs were in view. On the way down I found some 
skeleton bones of a whale, about 300 feet above the sea-ice ; and 
also tufts of grass and some reindeer moss. At the base I found 
Koodloo and Ebierbing with more seals which they had killed, 
and a fire made of the small shrub* before mentioned. 

In the evening we encamped here, close to Robinson's Ba}',f a 
beautiful sheet of water on the east side of the tower, fiere we 
erected our tupic, such as we could make, and the United States 
flag floated from its top. Our appearance at that time may be 
conceived from the following sketch. 




ENCAMPMENT AT 



1 DOT OF JOME&'S TOWEU. 



Next morning, having a cloudless sky and a gentle breeze 
(which afterward, however, increased to a strong gale), we pursued 
our way. In a short time we captured another fine seal, which 
was deposited en cache, to be available on our return. As we pro- 
ceeded, scenes of increasing beauty met my eye. The shore of 
the " dreaded land" presented many features of interest to me, for 
it was all new, and especially attractive from its associations with 

* Andromeda tetragona, a plant of the heath tribe that abounds throughout the 
arctic regions. 

t This bay I named after Samuel 1! bins id, of Cincinnati, Ohio. 



. CAPE DALY.— HUDSON'S ISLAND. 303 

the expeditions of Martin Frobisher. On tbe left were several 
channels of open water. Before and around me were several ice- 
bergs frozen in tbe pack — one berg in particular being very mag- 
nificent in appearance, and resembling a Gothic church. 

We had now advanced about six miles from Jones's Tower, 
and had reached Cape Daly,* when the rugged character of the 
ice hindered our farther progress with the sledge. Koodloo and 
I therefore walked ahead inland about half a mile to "prospect,"' 
and, arriving upon an eminence at the opposite side of the cape, 
we thence saw that we might have better traveling by rounding it 
aud reaching the other side. Accordingly, we returned to the 
sledge and refreshed ourselves with a feast of raw seal. 

The wind greatly increasing in violence made traveling still 
more arduous, but we were determined to persevere, and so we 
rounded the cape, but with great difficult}', owing to hummocky 
ice and deep, soft snow. Cape Daly is the termination of a neck 
of land distinguished by a remarkable gap in its ridge. 

Resuming our proper course, we hurried forward toward an- 
other cape — Cape Hayesf — the most northerly point of Hudson's 
Island.* There we again prospected, and found it would be im- 
possible to proceed farther with the sledge on account of the 
hummocky ice in our way. 

Hall's Island at this time was less than two miles distant ; but 
to reach it by our present course, on the northern side of Hud- 
son's Island, was an utter impossibilit} 7 , in consequence of the 
indescribably rugged ice with which M'Clintock Channel§ was 
firmly packed. 

"While examining Cape Hayes we came to circles of stones, evi- 
dently placed there many years ago by the Innuits that formerly 
inhabited this now forsaken land ; but beyond this, nothing worth}- 
of note was to be seen. "We therefore returned to the sledge, and 

* Named in honor of Judge Charles P. Daly, of New York City. Cape Daly is in 
lat. C2° 35' N., long. G-t 21 W. 

+ I have named this cape after 1. 1, naves, surgeon of the second Grinncll expe- 
dition. Cape Hayes is a low point of land flanked by a high ridge of rugged rocks, 
and is the north extreme of Hudson's Island. 

1 Hudson's Lland, so called in honor of Frederick Hudson, of New York, n Btrong 
friend of arctic explorations. The centre of this island is in lat. G2° 34' N., long. 
n'W. Its length is about three miles, extending north and south ; width, two 
miles. 

§ The channel between Hall's Island of Frobishcr and Hudson's Island (riil, 
Chart) I have denominated M'Clintock Channel, after Captain (now Sir Leopold) 
M'Clintock, commander of the yacht Fox in search for Sir John Franklin in 1857-9. 



304 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

thence back about a quarter of a mile to a bight flanked by high 
mountains. 

While Koodloo and Ebicrbing were here erecting a tent, I as- 
cended one of these mountains, and thence discovered to the 
southwest, between Lok's Land and Hudson's Island, a channel 
that no white man (unless of Frobisher's expedition) ever saw be- 
fore — a channel that probably no Innuit of any late generation 
had ever visited. The next day, June 9th, we pursued our jour- 
ney down through Dr. Kane's Channel,* which connects Frobish- 
er Bay with Field Bay ; the extreme land, which I especially de- 
sired to visit, lying from five to seven miles to the east of the low- 
er or southern termination of said channel. The sledge went 
swiftly, bounding from snow-wreath to snow-wreath, but I man- 
aged to pencil down my notes as we rode along. 

Never did I see a more interesting sight than that now present- 
ed. Wherever my eye turned, seals appeared in great numbers 
on the ice by their holes ; and, as may be supposed from what I 
have previously said of the Innuit character, it was quite hopeless 
to expect that my companions, or the dogs, would attend to my 
wishes in getting forward. No ; a " seal-hunt" was inevitable ; 
and away we went, at the rate of ten miles an hour, bounding 
like deer over the smooth ice, and were quickly among the ani- 
mals, dealing death around. It was the work of but a few mo- 
ments ; and the very notes from which I now write were record- 
ed as I sat by a seal-hole, the water of which was crimsoned with 
blood, some of which still marks the page before me. Around me 
was a scene of death. Our captured seals were now so many 
that my Innuit companions did not know what to do with them. 
They appeared almost crazy with joy, at least so far as they are 
capable of showing signs of extravagant delight in matters of this 
kind. 

Ebierbing said that, "although they had all dreaded this land, 
it was a good land, and now he was not sorry he had come. 
There was plenty land— plenty water — plenty seal — and nobody 
there !" 

In addition- to the numerous seals, we soon afterward came 
across polar bear-tracks, and could see where Bruin had torn up 
the seance in his path. But just then we would not stop for any 
thing except for Ninoo. It was " onward" with us now. The 

* Thus named in memory of Dr. Kane, the arctic explorer. This channel di- 
vides Hudson's Island from Lok's Land. 



KOODLOO CHAJiMING A SEAL. 305 

way was clear, the day fine, and good prospects before us for get- 
ting around to " Hall's Island" of Frobisher, to the extreme east- 
ern limit of all that land toward the great sea. Therefore I urged 
my companions on, though it was with some difficulty I could 
persuade Koodloo to accompany us. lie had been uncomfortable 
from the moment we bad trodden upon a portion of the " dreaded 
land,'' and now that we arc going round it by the "big waters," 
which had carried off so many of his people, he was in a state of 
great agitation. But I succeeded in persuading him to stay with 
us, especially as I promised to return as soon as I had visited the 
extreme land. 

As we opened out to the south, and arrived where we had ex- 
pected to see the entrance of Frobisher Bay frozen solid like Field 
Bay, which we had just left, my astonishment was great to see, at 
a short distance from us, open water, with numerous icebergs drift- 
ing, and a heavy sea rolling in, and beating on the edge of the floe. 

About noon we stopped to allow Koodloo to make up to a seal 
that he was desirous of obtaining, and I was as deeply interested 
as ever in the way in which he contrived to get so near to his in- 
tended prey. "While the seal would be taking its "cat-nap" (a sleep 
of ten to fifteen seconds), Koodloo made his approach by hitches, 
propelling himself along, recumbent on his side, by one foot, till 
he got close up, say within twelve fathoms of it. During the seal's 
watchful moments it seemed to be charmed by the peculiar talk, 
and by the scratching noise made by the sealer. But the animal 
proved too shy; the charm was broken, and down through its 
hole in the ice it plunged ; and away we went again, our course 
leading us close by the side of the expanse of open water, in and 
upon which were numerous seals and ducks, giving evidence of 
animal life here in abundance. The seals were frequently hunt- 
ed; and although it did not aid our progress, yet it served to re- 
lieve the tedium, and give excitement to our journey. 

w"e now nearcd the land; and when within half a mile of 
"Hall's smaller island" of Frobisher, I went on by mysellj leav- 
ing Ebierbing to occupy himself among the seals. 

On my walk I saw numerous bear-tracks, and such other evi- 
dence around me that I could not help exclaiming, "This outcast 
region is indeed one of plenty instead of barrenness!" 

In a few moments I was on the top of the highest elevation of 
"Hall's smaller island," and from it took several compass bear- 
ings as I viewed the scene around. But I was unable to stay 

U 



306 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

long ; and intending to revisit the spot, I soon went back to the 
sledge. 

During my absence two seals bad been killed ; but unnecessari- 
ly, for it was impossible to carry more than their skins and livers 
with us. Still, wherever a seal was observed, the two Innuits 
would away after it. This seriously delaj-ed us, and it was near 
midnight before we got back to our previous night's encampment 
on the northern side of Hudson's Island, where we again rested. 

The next day, Monday, June 10th, we once more passed through 
Dr. Kane's Channel, and at 8 47 P.M. reached the middle of the 
south shore of Hall's Island. Here we encamped by a little cove 
on this shore, near the west end of the channel which runs on the 
north side of the small island which I ascended the day previous. 
Ebierbing went to seek fuel, which he found on the shore of our 
little bay in the shape of drift-wood. Koodloo and he then pre- 
pared our food, while I was off to ascend the mountain that flank- 
ed the place of our encampment. On the top of this mountain I 
found an Innuit monument which evidently had been erected cen- 
turies before, for it was black with the moss of ages. 

The " monument" was a very long stone stuck up between two 
larger ones, and the whole made firm by other stones wedged in, 
and in a way peculiarly Innuitish. 

The view from the summit was fine. Meta Incognita, Corne- 
lius Grinuell Bay, Field Bay, Davis's Straits, and Frobisher Bay, 
were all in sight. Inshore of me there was a beautiful lakelet a 
mile long and half a mile wide, surrounded by several hills of 
rugged rock, that contrasted strangely with its smooth and uni- 
form white. 

After spending a short time upon the summit, I began my de- 
scent, when, as I turned toward the north, what was my great as- 
tonishment and joy to perceive a vessel — a steamer — with English 
colors, close to the land ! There was the black hull, the smoke- 
stack, and every thing about her seemed plainly visible. In a 
moment I was back to the summit for a more distinct view, and 
there saw her tack ship again and again, presenting first one side 
of her bull and then the other, as she worked up and down the 
open " lead" (a narrow channel of water in the ice), close by the 
shore. 

What my thoughts were I leave the reader to judge. I was 
all but overpowered with joy. I should now hear news of my 
native home — perhaps of dear friends. I should again mingle 



WHO IS PRESIDENT?— THE PHANTOM SHIP. 307 

with the inner world of civilization, and hear tidings of what was 
going on in the ever-changing theatre of active and social life at 
home. I should probably know who had been elected President 
of the United States, and how my own country progressed in na- 
tional weal* This and much more I should soon learn, if I made 
speed and could get on board before this stranger vessel moved 
too far away. 

Accordingly, I rapidly descended to the encampment, and told 
Ebicrbing and Koodloo what I had seen. Not a moment was 
lost in getting ready for a walk across the land to the other side. 
Loaded guns were taken for the purpose of firing a signal, that the 
vessel might send us a boat; and away we went, hurrying along 
as fast as the rugged surface of the ground would permit. 

IIow beautiful was the picture fancy painted in my mind while 
we were thus hurrying across the island from its south to its 
north shore. How eagerly I wished we were there, and ready to 
push off on the ice, if need be, to visit the stranger. What sur- 
prise, too, I thought within mj'self, would be occasioned by our 
coming from the "dreaded" land, especially seeing me, a civilized 
man, alone with the natives. 

But all my pleasant visions and romantic fancies were sudden- 
ly and rudely dispelled when we reached the other side, and stood 
upon a spot near the north shore. No ship — no vessel was there ! 
Had she disappeared? No. The object upon which I had gazed 
with such a transport of feeling was indeed there before me, as I 
had seen it from above; but what was my disappointment — my 
utter amazement and chagrin, when I found that the supposed 
steamer was only a remarkably-shaped portion of the mountain's 
side ! Never before had I been so completely deceived ; and per- 
haps, had I had my perspective glass with me, I might have de- 
tected the mistake while upon the mountain-top. Yet even now, 
after the illusion was dispelled, I was astonished at the similitude 
which Nature had here portrayed of a steam vessel. The black 
of that projecting rock, with the white snow apparently standing 
out apart from the mountain-side to which it belonged, made up 
a figure so completely like that of a ship, and my change of posi- 
tion at every few steps so magically represented the appearance 
of repeated tacking, that only the close inspection which I was 
now making could convince me of the illusion. But it was now 

* Little did I then dream that my country lind been plunged into a cruel civil 
war ! 



308 ARCTIC RESEABCH EXPEDITION. 

dispelled. It was almost cruel, if I may venture to use such a 
term, to awake me from my late dream of expected joy to the re- 
ality of so great a disappointment. However, so it was ; and if 
any thing would have relieved my own vexation, it was the blank 
look of astonishment depicted on the features of my two compan- 
ions on ascertaining the truth. Strange to say, by the time we 
had arrived at the spot where the best view of it could be obtain- 
ed, it looked no more like a vessel than a cow ! One glance, and 
we turned away — I in disgust 

Our journey back was any thing but agreeable ; but we took it 
leisurely, and at half past 1 A.M. of the 11th arrived at our en- 
campment. 

In speaking to Ebierbing about the reasons for the Innuits de- 
serting a place which we now had evidence to show was abound- 
ing with animal life, he told me that the dread of it could not be 
removed. It had left upon the minds of all Innuits an impression 
of horror which descended from joarent to child, and was likely 
to last for a long time. Even he himself would not have come 
now but for much persuasion and the influence of the civilized 
white man over the dark races, besides his strong personal attach- 
ment to me. As for Koodloo, he had been induced by the ex- 
ample and persuasions of Ebierbing more than by any favorable 
feelings on his own part. After he had arrived here, it was plain 
to me he regretted it; and possibly, in his inner soul, " the myste- 
rious ship" may have added to his superstitious feelings concern- 
ing the place. 

While returning from this trip across Hall's Island, Ebierbing 
related to me the following anecdote, prefacing it by the simple 
remark that the breaking away of sea-ice and carrj-ing off one or 
more Innuits is not a rare occurrence. Once two of his people 
were driven out of Cornelius Grimiell Bay while on the ice seal- 
ing. The ice finally brought up against Lady Franklin's Island,* 
twenty-five miles from the main land, upon which island the for- 
lorn Innuits landed. Here they lived for several months on 
ducks, walrus, bears, and seals, which they found there in abun- 
dance. They did not make their appearance for months, and 
were given up as lost. But, to the surprise of every one, they 
ultimately returned, having effected their escape by means of 
" floats" made of the skins of seals which they had killed. I 

* Named by me in honor of Lady Franklin. Lady Franklin Island is in lat. 62- 
55' 30" N., long. 63° 30' W. 



ASCEND MOUNT WARWICK.— RESOLUTION ISLAND. 309 

may here mention that also, in returning on the before-described 
vexatious walk, we noticed a wall of stone — moss-covered stone — 
at the outlet of the lakelet, which was made, as Ebierbing said, by 
his people that had lived a great many years before, for a hiding- 
place, to enable them to kill tuktoo as they followed along their 
path, which was close by. Numerous old bones of this animal we 
saw by this wall. 

On the 11th of June, at noon, I put on a rock a delicately-bal- 
anced compass needle, the north pole of which stood on zero. At 
12 midnight it was one degree west of zero. At 3 30 A.M. of the 
12th it was one degree east of zero point ; but more about this in 
its proper place. 

On the same day, the 11th, half a mile northwest, on the top of 
the mountain in the rear of our camp, I took bearings of various 
prominent places; and while taking the angle of an island five 
miles distant to the south, Ebierbing and Koodloo with me, the 
former, looking around with the glass, suddenly exclaimed, " Ni- 
noo ! Ninoo !" pointing, at the same time, in the direction of the 
very island I was sighting. In an instant Koodloo rushed off to 
harness up the dogs, and I after him, Ebierbing remaining behind 
for a moment to watch the bear's movements. Present!}- I de- 
cided upon returning to continue my work and let both the In- 
nuits go in chase. Eeascending to the spot I had left, I continued 
on to the northward and westward till I had ascended a still high- 
er mountain, the table-topped " Mount Warwick" of Frobisher. 

There I remained for hours, with changes in the atmosphere so 
tantalizing that it vexed me greatly. One moment there was a 
beautiful sky, the next every thing was enveloped in thick fog. 
So it continued, calm as a summer's day at home, not a cloud in 
the sky as the fog lifted, the sun shining brightly for a moment, 
and anon darkened by impenetrable vapor. I was greatly disap- 
pointed. I had fixed a capital point by sun to take my angles of 
various mountains, bays, headlands, etc., but, in consequence of 
the state of the weather, was obliged to leave my work incom- 
plete. 

In descending to a lower point, I distinctly saw Mela Incognita, 
the fog having dispersed in that direction. Also I saw Resolu- 
tion Island, which bore S. 12° "W. (true). 

I returned to the camp shortly after, but Ebierbing and Kood- 
loo had not yet arrived. 

"While waiting for the two Innuits, I gathered some fuel, kin- 



310 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

died a fire, and filled the tea-kettle to make coffee. Presently I 
heard the crack of my rifle, and concluded that another seal was 
killed, little imagining what had actually occurred. But near 
midnight, when Ebierbing and Koodloo arrived, they told me 
that not only one of the largest-sized seals (ookgook) was killed, 
but also the bear. I could hardly believe them. A bear? It 
was too much to believe. I could readily conceive that they had 
succeeded' with seals, but that they had captured the bear, and 
without the smallest signs of any struggle, was almost incredible. 
I could not, therefore, help laughing at Ebierbing as he persisted 
in the statement ; and I said to him, " You're making game of 
me." On the instant he replied, " Come to the sledge (which was 
only a short distance off) and see." There, true enough, was 
Ninoo's skin, with portions of the meat ; and now we had heef in 
abundance. The ookgook had been left on the ice, at the edge 
of the floe by the open water. 

Ebierbing told me that they went over to the mountain island 
where he had first espied the bear, and saw the brute lying down. 
On their approach he sprung up and darted away. Three of the 
dogs were immediately let loose by cutting the traces with which 
they were harnessed to the sledge. After these three had started, 
the remaining dogs were cast adrift, which soon overtook the 
other dogs, and assisted in bringing the bear to bay. They bark- 
ed, bit, struggled, and fought bravely, the bear doing his best to 
defend himself. Now and then Ninoo would start to run, but the 
dogs were quickly fast to his stern, turning him round more rap- 
idly than the rudder does a ship under a nine-knot breeze. 

The dog and bear fight continued for half an hour, when Ebier- 
bing, getting as favorable an opportunity as he desired, sent the 
messenger of death to Ninoo's heart. 

The bear was very fat, as all polar bears in the neighborhood 
of the "deserted land" must be, in consequence of the immense 
number of seals there. His stomach was filled to its utmost ca- 
pacity, and, Innuit-like, the two men took care of every portion 
that was serviceable. 

The bear was immediately skinned, and the best portions of the 
carcass brought away. The rest was left to feast other animals 
than man. On returning from this bear-hunt, Ebierbing shot the 
ookgook which he referred to. 

Our feast that night was uncommonly good. Some of the faf, 
with portions of the lean, was well cooked ^ and when wc lay 



VISIT TO NORTH FORELAND. 



311 



down to rest, I would not wager that our stomachs were not as 
widely distended as had been that of the defunct Ninoo. 

I may here mention that the bear's bladder was inflated and 
hung up to the pole of our tupic, and, according to Innuit cus- 
toms, should remain there three days. 

Early in the morning of Wednesday, the 12th of June, I was 
up, and ready for a proposed trip. It had been decided to set out 
this day on our return to the ship, but I could not think of leav- 
ing this interesting region without visiting the utmost extreme of 
laud — the " North Foreland" of Frobisher. Leaving my two com- 
panions asleep, I walked off alone. The snow was deep and soft, 
making my traveling laborious. When about halfway, I ascend- 
ed a hill that overlooks the channel between "LTall's Island" and 
" nail's smaller island." The channel was free from ice save 
near its west end. close by the little bay of our encampment, and 

presented an animated pic- 
ture of life, for seals and 
aquatic birds in great varie- 
ty were sporting there. But 
as only a very brief time re- 
mained for this journey, I 
was obliged to hasten on. 
At length, after a labori- 
ous walk, I reached "North 
Foreland," the goal of my 
ambition in this present 
trip. 

Here the view was as en- 
chanting as it was extens- 
ive. The sea around, as far 
as the eye could reach, was 
open; yet much ice, in the 
various forms of " sconce" 
pieces, floes, aud bergs, was 
drifting about. 

"North Foreland" pre- 
sented a bold front, As I 
looked down from its heights (an elevation of several hundred 
feet), the sea was "playing fantastic tricks," its mighty waves 
dashing in quick succession against the rocky rampart by which 
I was shielded, leaping upward as if to meet and greet me, say- 




FK'HilSHEE. 



312 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION 

ing, " White man, we saw } r our namesake here nearly three hund- 
red years ago ; ivhere is he now?" 

Nearly south of North Foreland are three islets, the nearest one 
fourth of a mile off shore. The largest is a quarter of a mile 
long, and is distinguished by a prominent rock that looks like a 
huge bee-hive, with smaller ones on each side of it. The others 
are quite small, being respectively about seventy and a hundred 
and forty fathoms in length. In every direction about here I saw 
recent traces of reindeer and rabbits, also circles of stones, and 
other signs of Innuits having lived here long ago. 

The following are some of the measurements which I made 
while on this morning walk: The width of North Foreland 
(which is the eastern extremity of Hall's Island), measuring it a 
short distance back from the cliff, is about a quarter of a mile. 
Hall's Island extends a mile farther eastward than "Hall's small- 
er island." The latter is eight tenths of a mile in length. 

After spending an hour at this interesting spot, taking bearings 
of distant objects, and observing the general appearance of the lo- 
cality, I reluctantly retraced my steps to our encampment, a dis- 
tance of two miles, where I found on the sledge every thing in 
readiness for our departure. 

At 9 19 A.M. we set out on our return to Eescue Harbor. 
When out on the sea-ice, we stopped by the edge of the floe, next 
the open water, at the carcass of the ookgook killed by Ebierbing 
the day before. In the dilemma which followed as to what we 
should do with it, I proposed that it should be carried to land and 

buried under heavy stones, supposing that Captain B , then 

at Cape True with his men, might send a boat's crew round by 
Frobisher Bay, which was all open water, and get the blubber, 
and perhaps the meat, and also some of our deposited seals. But 
Ebierbing assured me that it mattered not what might be the size 
or the weight of the stones covering it, Ninoo would find out the 
deposit and rip it up. It was finally concluded to save only the 
skin. To effect this, they girdled the animal's body, cutting the 
skin transversely in widths of about five or six inches, and then 
slipped it off in cylinders, each of which was to be afterward cut 
spirally, making a long strip of skin, which is of great value for 
walrus and seal lines, and dog-traces. This ookgook was an ob- 
ject of more than common interest. Though so easily dispatched 
— the rifle ball, on penetrating his skull, causing instant death — 
yet, as Ebierbing pointed out, it bore numerous marks of wounds 



NOTE-BOOK LOST AND FOUND.— THE GALE. 313 

received in a conflict -with a polar bear. It had bad a struggle 
with its mighty foe, and had escaped. 

We did not get ready to proceed on our journey until 12 M. 
"We then crossed the floe at the south side of Hudson's Island, 
taking the same route we had traveled three times before. When 
we were nearly through Kane's Channel, and while I was exam- 
ining its shores, having occasion to make some record, I opened 
the covers of my note-book, and found, to my consternation, that 
its contents were gone ! I knew not what to do. I felt that, if 
they should not be recovered, most of what were to me the im- 
portant notes that I had taken on this trip would be useless, ow- 
ing to the break in my narrative which the loss of these would 
occasion. My hope of recovering them was indeed slight, for my 
record had been kept on a few small oblong leaves of paper, 
slightly stitched together, which the wind might speedily scatter 
away. Still, I determined to go back and search for them, Ebier- 
bing agreeing to accompany me. 

We made our way back over rugged ice and snow by follow- 
ing our own tracks ; but the wind, then from the southeast, blew 
at right angles, and made it less likely that we should succeed. 
Ebierbing went ahead, a little on one side, and I kept straight on 
the course by which we had come. Thus we retraced our steps 
for some three miles, when, to my great joy, I heard Ebierbing 
shout, "Ni-ne-va-ha! Ni-ne-va-ha!" — I have found it! I have 
found \t\ And, sure enough, there, in his hands, I saw my little 
note-book, which he had just picked up. 

The distance we had traversed was three and a half miles, so 
that, in returning to the spot from which we had set out, we had 
walked full seven miles. This, however, was not of much account 
to me in comparison with the value of my note-book. 

I had directed Koodloo to proceed with the sledge ; but before 
we had reached him a furious gale from the northeast broke upon 
us, accompanied with much snow. This threatened an end to 
our day's travel, and I therefore determined to encamp as soon 
as possible. 

We traced Koodloo by the sledge tracks clown Allen Young's 
Bay,* near some sheltering land, and there found him, on the 
lee side of the sledge, flat on the snow, asleep ! yes, sound asleep, 

* Named in honor of Captain Allen W. Young, second in command under M'Clin- 
lock. in search of Sir John Franklin in 1S57-9. Allen Young's Bay is in lat. 02 
88' N., long. G4° 14' W., its east side bounded by Dillon Mountain. 



314 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and covered with drift, while the gale was beating around, and 
roaring almost with a voice of thunder. So thick and fast did 
the snow come down that we could not see a dozen yards before 
us. Yet here did Koodloo — as most Innuits can — sleep away as 
undisturbed by the storm as if in his tent. Here a great danger 
threatened us. This gale might break up the ice; and if so, and 
we were encamped on an island, escape would be impossible, for 
we had no boat. The wind was so furious that we could hardly 
stand erect, and already it was tearing up the ice in all directions 
about the main bay. It was an awkward position, and one that I 
had anticipated. But it was necessary immediately to prepare 
some shelter, and accordingly we selected a spot on a point of 
low land, north of and near Dillon Mountain, where Innuits evi- 
dently had erected their tupics very many years before. Bones 
of seal and walrus, fragments of wood, and circles of stones, show- 
ed the dwelling-places of Esquimaux who had lived there before 
the land became abhorred. 

The erection of our tent was a matter of great difficulty. One 
of us had to stand up before the blast to break its force, another 
to erect the tupic, and the third to try to make it stand. Placing 
the covering over the tent-poles was a toil especially arduous. 
The wind seemed to press with a force of tons. Flap, flap went 
the canvas, beating us about, and giving us such bruises that sev- 
eral times I thought it impossible to get through with the task. 
But at length it was accomplished. All the crevices were filled 
with moss, so as to render the admission of fine snow nearly im- 
possible ; and thus, in the teeth of a remarkably heavy gale, we 
finally succeeded in getting as much shelter as could be expected 
under such circumstances. The next day, June 13th, the gale 
continued with unabated fury to 11 A.M. Most of the time dur- 
ing this storm we had to keep inside the tent; and whenever we 
did venture out, it was necessary to use great care, lest the force 
of the wind should throw us down. That the tent stood was a 
marvel. But stand it did, and gave us shelter until Friday the 
14th, about 12 meridian, when we resumed our homeward route. 

Our journey was comparatively rapid. We arrived at Sylvia 
Island at 10 P.M., without any obstacle save in rounding Cape 
Daly, though the seaward ice was any thing but safe ; and after 
resting and partaking of coffee prepared with a tent-pole for fuel, 
we made a direct course for the ship. Now came the danger. 
Every where the ice was cracked, or moving, or gone ! "Wc care- 



OUR ESCAPE FROM THE DREADED LAND. 315 

fully pursued our way, literally with fear and trembling. Not 
for one moment was our footing safe. The thick-ribbed ice was 
broken into every conceivable form and size, and nothing but 
the absolute necessity of avoiding detention on the islands would 
have induced us to venture on the treacherous footing; but it 
was our only hope under heaven — our only means of escape — and 
upon it, and across it, we pursued our way. 




HOMEWARD BOUND— ICE HBEAKIKQ Cr. 



To add to the dangers of our situation, a thick mist soon settled 
upon us ; and there we were, three men, the dogs, and sledge, on 
the broken ice, in the middle of a bay wide open to the sea. 
Even the Innuits were more than usually alarmed, and finally be- 
came so confused that they wandered out of the proper course ; 
and it was only through my insisting that my compass was the 
best guide that, after going three miles out of our way, we at last 
arrived safely on board the ship at 10 87 A.M. on Saturday, the 
15th of June. 

Thankful was I that we met with no serious accident; and this 
was the more extraordinary considering our rate of traveling (we 
were only twenty hours coming from near Dr. Kane's Channel) 
and the dangerous character of the ice over which we had 
come. 

As an instance of what can be accomplished in securing the 
means of sustaining life in the arctic regions, I will here give a 
few particulars bearing upon the subject, and belonging to this 
particular journey. 



316 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

We set out with 

20 sea-biscuit, weight 5 lbs. 

Salt-junk " 5 " 

Coffee and pepper, say 1 " 

Total provision for the three 11 •' 

Powder 1 lb. 

Balls, in number 30. 

1 rifle, 1 gun, 2 seal spears, with lines and harpoons. 

We were away ten days, and in tliat time obtained 

1 polar bear, equal to 1000 lbs. 

1 ookgook (largest-sized seal) 1500 " 

9 seals 1800 " 

Making a total of 4300 " 

— that is, over two tons of fresh meat, besides skins for clothing, 
and oil for fuel and light. 

Most of the meat and blubber we deposited en cache, and the 
ookgook we left on the ice ; but we were obliged to abandon all, 
excepting a very little blubber, and the small proportion of meat 
which was consumed by ourselves and the dogs. The skins we 
saved. 



A THREE DAYS' GALE. 317 



CHAPTER XIX. 

An Excursion to the Whaling Dep8t. — Passage across Field Bay. — Singular Mode 
of capturing Seals. — Chapell Inlet. — Cross to Frobisher Bay. — Arrive at the 
Whaling Depot. — A large and bustling Place. — Consultation as to Author's Plans. 
— Vain Hope of pursuing his Voyage. — Puto in Distress. — A Walk to "Bear 
Sound." — Great number of Pieces of Limestone. — Boat Trip to Bear Sound. — 
Velocity of the Tides. — Immense number of Ducks and Wild-fowl. — Eggs ob- 
tained in abundance. — "Ice Collars." — Natural Bridges of Ice. — Return to Res- 
cue Harbor. — Stop at French Head. — Corpse of John Brown still there, and un- 
molested. — Arrive on Board. — Fourth of July again. — Field Bay clearing of Ice. 
— Look-out Island. — Luxuriant Vegetation. — Musquitocs. — Ugarng's Influence 
and Character. — A Love Affair. — Little Ookoodlear and the Outcast E-tu. — An 
unnatural Father. — A Child left deserted on a solitary Island. — Procures Food 
by catching Partridges with his Hand. — Lives a Hermit Life for Months. — Is res- 
cued by chance Visitors. — Grows to Manhood shunned by all bis Race save a few. 
— Ugarng's generous Protection. 

Ox my return, June loth, 1861, 1 found Innnit visitors at the 
ship. The only two men left on board were quite well. I was 
also much pleased to see that all my own apparel had been put 
in order, and such as needed it washed by Tookoolito, who had 
occasionally visited the vessel during my absence, and had thus 
thoughtfully provided for my comfort. 

The following few days I devoted wholly to resting myself and 
preparing for my long-desired voyage to King William's Land, 
which I intended to make as soon as I could obtain the means of 
prosecuting it, and the ice would psrmit. 

On the 17th another heavy gale burst upon us, which continued 
until the 20th. It blew hard, but there was no danger just now 
to the ship, for Rescue Harbor was still paved over with thick, 
solid ice; yet she trembled through her whole frame, and her 
masts quivered like reeds. In the outer bay, seaward, the ice was 
broken into innumerable fragments. On account of the storm, 
the natives on board, who had come from Cape True, could not 
return, and those on shore I perceived to be suffering from a gen- 
eral wreck of their habitations. LTardly a tupic was standing. 
The gale had razed them to the ground. 

My late companions, Ebierbing and Koodloo, set out on the 



318 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

20th sealing, and returned the following day, having secured eight 
seals, weighing in all about 1400 pounds. This would have sup- 
plied them with food for a long time, bad they provident habits. 

At this time news came by Koojesse from the whaling depot 
at Cape True, in Frobisher Bay. All the officers and crew sta- 
tioned there were well, though still unsuccessful. 

As Koojesse was to return as soon as possible, I determined to 
go with him, and accordingly we set out on the following even- 
ing, June 21st. 

At 7 P.M. we left the ship, with sledge and a team of eight 
dogs, including my faithful Barbekark. Our load was light, and 
we went along over the uncertain ice at three miles an hour. We 
had a thick fog all the way in crossing Field Baj r , and Koojesse, 
though a capital guide, was evidently taking a wrong course after 
leaving Bescue Harbor, until I showed him by my compass how 
we ought to go. By that means we got into the old sledge-tracks, 
marking the course to and fro, and were even with French Head* 
in two and a half hours from the ship. 

On the passage I noticed another singular and striking method 
which the natives use to capture seals. I will relate the incident 
as recorded in my journal of Saturday, the 22d of June: 

"We saw many seals out on the ice, but did not succeed in 
killing any, though Koojesse made several attempts. * * * * 
At 7 43 P.M., Rescue Harbor time, the dog Merok (brother dog 
of the notable Barbekark), a good sealer, saw a seal which he had 
scented some moments previous. Away he darted as fast as his 
now inspirited companion-dogs would allow him. Koojesse at 
once saw what was up, and set up a peculiar continued loud cry, 
in which I joined. The flying dogs, with kummitie, and our 
noise, so alarmed poor seal that it knew not what to do. The 
seal had his head over his hole, yet high raised, looking at the 
motley sight, and listening to the paudemonian sounds, which 
frightened it near unto death. On we went ; but when the dogs 
were within a few paces only, the seal regained his senses, and 
down he went just in time to save his — blubber! Koojesse says 
that young seals are often captured by such procedure as this, but 
seldom old ones." 

On arriving near the base of French Head, a little the other 

* "French Head" is a prominent headland, south side of Field Bay, and so named 
to commemorate the death of the Frenchman, which occurred near its base, as re- 
lated in Chapter XIII. French Head is in lat. 62° W 30" N., long. CI' io W. 



SEAL-CHARMING. 321 

side of it, we turned toward Chapell Inlet, intending to cross over 
the isthmus at its bead. The channel by which we had first en- 
tered this inlet in the Rescue (August 21st, 1860) was now full of 
hummocks ; we therefore crossed over a neck of laud perhaps 
half a mile wide, covered with submerged ice. The floating qual- 
ities of the sledge, as well as of the load, including ourselves, 
made our passage by water rapid, though not very comfortable. 

We crossed this " pass" — used frequently by the Innuits and 
the ship's crew in going to and from Cape True — and entered the 
inlet. Here I found many portions of the ice covered with the 
melted snows, and in some places the sledge sank deep in the wa- 
ter, much to the annoyance of the dogs as well as of ourselves. 

On the way Koojesse again had " talk" with some more seals 
which we saw, and it was with great interest I watched hiin. He 
lay down on one side, and crawled by hitches or jerks toward his 
victim; then, as the seal raised its head, Koojesse would stop, and 
commence pawing with his right hand and foot while he uttered 
his "seal-talk." On this the seal would feel a charm, raise and 
shake its flippers both "fore and aft," and roll over on its side 
and back, as if perfectly delighted, after which it would drop its 
head to sleep; then Koojesse would hitch, hitch along, till the 
seal's head would pop up again, which usually occurred every few 
moments. But Koojesse approached too near, and this broke the 
charm, allowing the seal to escape, and leaving the disappointed 
sealer to cry " E-e-e-uk!" 

The great trouble with the Innuits in this mode of sealing is 
that they often endeavor to get too near — say within five or seven 
fathoms — so as to make sure of their aim with a gun or spear, and 
this alarms their pre)'. 

During our progress up the inlet I observed a very small new- 
ly-made igloo, and asked Koojesse what it meant. "Wich-ou, 
ou" (wait, wait), said he in reply, and in a few moments we 
came alongside. The next instant Koojesse had jumped off the 
■, and with a grab through the snow, drew forth by one of 
its hind flippers a fine seal that he had killed when on his way 
up to the vessel. 

As we proceeded up the inlet, gradually the low land at its 
bead appeared, and at two in the morning of the 22d we had 
reached it. From here we turned westward, following the sinuos- 
ities of the coast for two miles, when we struck across the narrow 
strip of land dividing Chapell Inlet from Frobisher Bav. A few 

X 



322 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

minutes sufficed to find us slowly working along the badly-brok- 
en shore-ice on that side, the bay itself being wholly free, except 
a few bergs. Occasionally the dogs went pell-mell down, and over 
the steep broken ice ; then the sledge would butt against a per- 
pendicular hummock, sending us forward, very much like a stone 
out of a sling ; but we got along without serious mishap, and ar- 
rived at Cape True at half past two in the morning. 

As my eye first caught sight of the whale depot I was quite as- 
tonished. I had formed no conception of its being such a busy- 
looking place. There were numerous and thickly-crowded habi- 
tations, white men and Innuit tents, mills {toy wind-mills), and a 
liberty-pole, holding high to the breeze an extemporized emblem 
of our country ! People were already up and about, and every 
pinnacled rock had some person upon it to witness our approach. 
The dogs soon landed us on the rocks which formed the " public 
square" of the town, and quickly, from one and all, I received a 
hearty welcome. It seemed almost like home again to behold so 
many friendly and familiar faces. Several Innuits were here, 
most of whom I well knew, and they were delighted to sec me. 

Immediately on my arrival I was invited by the captain and 
officers into their quarters, and had an excellent breakfast put be- 
fore me. Of course one of the first inquiries was about my trip 
to and return from the " dreaded land/' This I soon answered 
by giving an account of what I had done, and then, my morning 
meal ended, I took a walk along the beach. Every where I found 
fragments of limestone in abundance, and my pockets were soon 
filled with specimens, which I brought home. 

One object of my visit to the whale depot was to see about pre- 
paring for my departure to King William's Land, and to consult 

Captain B respecting it. The boat promised me had to be 

made read} 7 , and therefore I at once entered upon the subject with 
him. The following is an extract from the entry made in my 
journal at the time (Saturday, June 22d, 1861) : 

" Captain B says that he has been out in this bay (Frobish- 

er) several times since coming over, and that he has been much 
impressed with the subject of my making my trip or voyage this 
summer, as expected, in a whale-boat. He thought it his duty 
to open the matter to me at once, announcing the conclusion he 
had come to, painful to him and to me. The boat which I had 
made in the States, specially designed and made for my expedi- 
tion to King "William's Land, was a suitable one for me, but a 



DISAPPOINTED BUT NOT DISHEARTENED. 323 

whale-boat was unfit. Captain B continued to say that I 

had not any more of an outfit, provision, etc., than I should take, 
but that, with the crew necessary, I could not possibly carry more 
than a very small proportion of what I had. He found that with 
the boat's crew, and the three line-tubs each boat has, no addition- 
al weight could be added to navigate in such waters as he knew I 
would be obliged to in getting to the point of my destination. 

" This is a serious matter with me — one pregnant with such 
thoughts I can not put upon paper. I can not, I will not sell my 
life foolishly. If the loss of my expedition boat, which was well 
planned and strongly made, has taken from me the proper, the 
only judicious means of carrying out my purpose of going to King- 
William's Land, then I must delay — I must lose one year in re- 
turning to the States and preparing again for the voyage that I 
am still determined to make, God wiUing. I will refer in my 
journal to this subject again." 

Among the Innuits staying at the whale depot was the woman 
Puto, mother of the semi-white child. This poor woman was very 
badly off, her husband being dead, and she had but scant means 
of providing for herself and offspring. Seeing her sad condition, 
I gave her several trinkets, and, in addition, a box of 100 percus- 
sion caps. This latter present caused her to weep for joy. She 
knew not how enough to thank me. With them she could trade 
among her people for many conveniences she wanted. Any 
thing in the way of ammunition is thought more of by the Innu- 
its than almost any other articles that could be named. 

At this time the weather was fine, and the view of Kiugaite, 
with its miles and miles of mountain wall, its glaciers, and its 
snows, was grand indeed. More than ever was I desirous of ex- 
ploring that coast ; and I thought that, even if nothing else could 
be done, I might possibly examine some of the places made fa- 
mous by Frobisher's voyages in 1576, 7, and '8. " Bear Sound" 
was but a short distance to the eastward, and the second day after 
my arrival at the whale depot I took with me "Captain" (Koker- 
jabin's youngest son), and walked toward it. But he proved only 
a hinderance to me. I had to go full fifteen miles to reach a point 
of land distant not more than two and a half miles in a direct line. 
I was obliged to make for the head of Chapell Inlet by first wad- 
ing through some soft, wet snow, that covered shore-ice and the 
land on my way. Then I had to make a long circuit around 
some stones and rocks, and afterward ascend hill after hill, going 



324 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

through valleys full of snow soft and deep enough to cover my 
whole bod}'. But, wherever I went, small pieces of limestone were 
in abundance, even to the very mountain-tops. 

At length I arrived at my destination on the west side of Bear 
Sound. There — beside those waters, on whose shores Frobisher 
and his men had labored for the mineral wealth which he believed 
he had found there — I had my noon repast, my Innuit companion 
sharing it with me. Besting a while, I forgot my youthful at- 
tendant while contemplating the scene around me. Presently I 
rose to return, and missed "Captain." I called ; no reply. Where 
had he gone? There was a steep precipice close by, and I be- 
came alarmed lest he had fallen over it. I therefore instantly 
sought for him, and after some moments found his tracks. He 
had left me without a word, intending to go by a more direct, but, 
as I thought, dangerous course to the depot. I followed him, and 
we then returned together, arriving at the tents much fatigued. 

While I was stopping at Cape True the boats frequently went 
to get fuel from the scattered remains of the Traveller before men- 
tioned. The shore was strewed with portions of the wreck, which 
would serve many years for fuel for ships' companies occupied as 
the George Henry's was at the whaling depot. 

The crew of the George Henry were at that time living " in clo- 
ver." They had plenty of ducks, duck eggs, seal, walrus, etc., and 
whenever they wanted a supply they had only to go and take 
what Nature here so plentifully furnished. On one of these oc- 
casions (June 24th) I accompanied a party that went " duck-egg- 
ing." It consisted of two whale-boats, manned by whites and In- 
nuits, under command of Charles Keeney and A. Bailey. I went 
with the latter, leaving the whale depot early in the morning, and 
striking right across a little bight to the west entrance of Bear 
Sound. 

On entering this sound I was surprised at the velocity and sin- 
gular movements of the tides. As we advanced the tide was ebb- 
ing, and running swiftly up toward Field Ba} r . But when we 
had reached Ellis Island,* the movement of the tidal waters ap- 
peared to be reversed, and they were throwing themselves furi- 
ously about. Eddies, and whirlpools, and mill-races were there 
running and whirling around in the wildest and most fantastic 

. * A prominent, bold rock island, west side of Bear Sound, about one sixth of a 
mile in diameter, three miles from Field Bay, and named after John W. Ellis, of 
Cincinnati, Ohio. "Ellis Island" is in lat. 62° 32' N.,Jong. 64° 45' W. 



DUCK-HUNTING AND EGGING.— ICE COLLARS. 325 

way, carrying on their foaming surface small bergs, "sconce" 
pieces, and ice fragments of all shapes, in utter disregard of each 
other. When the tide turned these masses came whirling back, 
as if madly bent on heaping destruction wherever they could. 
This scene in Bear Sound was singularly grand and striking. 

With regard to these tides I will not say much here, reserving 
such subjects for the Appendix ; but I soon found this to be a sub- 
ject requiring attentive consideration, and this I afterward had an 
opportunity of giving to it. 

As to egging and duck-hunting, I can say more about it now. 
The ducks were very numerous, flying over our heads in every 
direction. They were in the water drifting with the swiftly-run- 
ning tide, on the ice, and on nearly every one of the numerous 
islands we passed. Wherever we saw a great many upon or 
around an island, we visited it for eggs. 

The first island we pulled to was one in the midst of a sweep- 
ing, driving tide, so that it seemed to defy all human exertions to 
approach it ; yet, after " a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull al- 
together," we conquered. The boat was taken round to the op- 
posite side of the island from that where the tide struck it, and 
though the water rolled and tumbled as if mad, we managed by 
a plan of our own to get upon the top of the magnificent " ice 
collar" that engirdled the island. 

This was the first time in my life that I saw eider-ducks' nests, 
and consequently the first occasion on which I aided in abstract- 
ing the large, luscious eggs. In ten minutes four of us gathered 
six doze,n, and at another island, in twenty minutes, sixteen dozen 
and five. The eggs taken are replaced by fresh ones, as the 
ducks lay every two or three days. Many ducks were shot, but, 
owing to the swift tide, only a few were obtained. The rest were 
swept away. 

In speaking of the " ice collars" surrounding the islands, I may 
mention that if they had been simply perpendicular the difficulty 
in mounting them would not have been so great; but they pro- 
jected over from ten to thirty feet, and when the tide had fallen 
some twenty-four feet it was no slight task to surmount them. 
We managed it in some cases by extending two of our long oars 
from the boat to the top, thus forming a substitute for a ladder. 

Many of the islands in Bear Sound were locked together by 
natural ice bridges, several of these being arched in a most re- 
markable manner. 



326 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 




6CALLNG AN ICE COLLAE IN BEAK &JCNI1. 



We approached to within three miles of Sylvia Island, the same 
on which I and my Innuit companions had encamped on our late 
journey to the " dreaded land," and I could not but view it in a 
most friendly way when I remembered how its warm, dry rocks 
gave us a good bed and protection from the storms. 

Our excursion lasted some hours, and we returned to the tu- 
ples, both boats well laden with eggs. The total acquisition of 
our two boats' crews was one hundred dozen eggs and five ducks. 
An eider-duck egg is nearly twice the size of a hen's. 

At this time Captain B was absent with two boats a short 

distance up the bay " prospecting" for whales. He returned on 
the 28th of June, during a fierce storm of wind and rain, and he 
informed me that the trip back was made under most unfavorable 
circumstances. The previous night had been passed on an island 
above Evictoon, the only shelter obtained from the storm being 
that which their boats' sails afforded when put up as a tent. His 
own crew suffered greatly from the cold; but the Innuits with 
him, not finding sufficient room inside the tent, went out and lay 
down tinder the lee of some projecting rocks! Tiny rested and slept 
well, while the white men could hardly keep themselves, as they 
said, from beins; frozen. 



RETURN TO THE SHIP.— FOURTH OF JULY. 327 

On the evening of Friday, the 28th of June, having spent seven 
days at Cape True, I purposed starting back the next day for the 
vessel. An extract from my journal of that date I will here in- 
troduce : 

'•To-morrow I accompany Captain B back to the George 

He goes with the expectation of remaining there until 
the vessel is liberated, when he intends to return to this bay and 
cruise around a while, and if unsuccessful, to return to Field Bay 
or proceed to Cornelius Grinnell Bay. Two boats' crews are to 
follow in a few daj's, while two remain here (Frobisher Bay) for 
a little while, to continue cruising for whales." 

Here follows another entry in my journal, made just before 
leaving the whaling depot : 

" Saturday, June 29th, 1861. I soon start for home — that is, set 

out for the vessel. Captain B and I arc to have one sledge 

for ourselves and our traps, and will have Koojesse for dog-driver. 
Charley, the good-hearted Inuuit, is to take another team along, 
to convey the clothes of two of the George Henry's men — one the 
carpenter, a Portuguese, and young Smith, who are to go along. 

"Puto and Miner's wife have been mending my kum-ings (na- 
tive boots) this morning, that I may go dry-shod to the vessel, as 
we anticipate watery traveling." 

At 8 A.M. of the 29th we left Cape True, and at 6 P.M. arrived 
at French Head. As we passed " French Head," where poor John 
Brown had met his death a little over three months previous, we 
had a look at the spot. Lo! there were his remains just as we 
had left them, except that foxes or bears had eaten part of his 
skin clothing. His corpse was untouched ! As for the monu- 
ment we had erected over him, that had melted away, and soon 
the ice beneath his body would melt away also, and lower him 
into his ocean grave. 

The journey back to the ship was very difficult. In many 
places pools of water and broken ice led to the apprehension that 
no passage would be found; and nearly the whole way we had 
to walk almost knee-deep through slush and water covering the 
sea-ice. But at length, about midnight, we arrived on board, and 
soon threw ourselves down to rest, after a most fatiguing journey 
of sixteen hours. 

Four days later was the Fourth of July, and the followin 
tract from my diary will show how it was celebrated among 

" Thursday, July ith, 1861. Eighty-five years ago to-day was 



328 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

made the Declaration of American Independence. Here, amid 
mountains robed in snow — on a sea covered with thick-ribbed ice 
— among a people free as God's own children can be, we celebrate 
the birthday of our freedom. The iron free sons of the North 
have joined us in making the welkin ring with our cheers and 
steel-throated welcomes of this memorable day. 

"Soon after nine last night all turned in, agreeing to be on 
deck a few minutes before twelve midnight. Slecja stole so heavi- 
ly upon us that it was 1 o'clock A.M. when Morgan came to my 
berth and called me. A few moments sufficed to find a company, 
armed and equipped as the law (the George Henri/ s) directs, ready 
for action. Some of the company were, as they leaped from their 
blankets, in stocking-feet and drawers. Nevertheless, they had 
willing hands and patriotic hearts, wide mouths and deep-toned 
throats, therefore they 'passed muster.' The signal was given by 
me, and in voices of thunder we spoke, and then followed cheer 
upon cheer. The ensign was hoisted, while we saluted it with a 
round of cheers and sulphurous fire. 

"After a capital dinner, an old cast-away gun, that had been 
lying about the deck, was filled to the brim with powder, the 
charge hammered down, and the barrel plugged to the muzzle. 
The stock had been ripped off in the morning by the Innuits, 
leaving only the barrel. It was now taken far out on the ice, 
placed on a pure white bed, aud fired. One grand explosion filled 
the air, and the old gun was shattered into innumerable frag- 
ments, some flying over the vessel, others mounting high into the 
air, and one piece going as far as Cooper's Island, a quarter of a 
mile off, where it was afterward picked up. 

" Such has been our celebration of Independence Day, 1861. 

" This afternoon I visited Cooper's Island, and, with chisel and 
hammer, dug out some of the ' black ore,' such as was discovered 
by Frobisher's expedition of 1578, with which many of his ships 
were laden. This ore attracts and repels the magnetic needle 
about like iron. It is very heavy." 

On the 6th of July I went to "Whale Island for the purpose of 
looking seaward, that I might see the state of the ice and consider 
the probability of the ship becoming free. It was only about six 
miles to the open water — the sea. Good prospect, therefore, of 
soon being entirely free. All the ice, except that around the 
ship, where islands blocked up the passages, had drifted away, 
and hope rose strong within us that we should soon be able to 



FLOWEKS.— MUSQUITOES.— UGAUM K 329 

make sail from Eescuc Harbor where the vessel bad lain so 
long. 

Another island {Look-out Island) I found wholly destitute of 
snow, and vegetation was quite luxuriant upon it. Grasses and 
flowers looked truly beautiful when contrasted with the bay and 
snow-covered mountains around. 

On the 7th of July we were visited by the first musquiloes of 
the season ; and, from the torment they gave me, I was strongly 
reminded of my sufferings at Ilolsteinborg the previous year, and 
also had a taste of what would probably come. 

Another arrival this day was Ugarng and his wives. lie was 
loaded with the spoils of a successful reindeer hunt, and, in addi- 
tion, had killed a white whale in Cornelius Grinnell Bay. He and 
several more Innuits went off to the whale depot to see what pros- 
pects existed there for hunting or fishing, but he did not remain 
long. Upon his return he determined to revisit the place he had 
lately left, 

Ugarng had great influence among his people, and I have often 
thought he was not a man to be wholly trusted. Indeed, I some- 
times felt that nothing ever done for him would cause a grateful 
return. He was a bold, successful, and experienced hunter, and, 
as such, was frequently engaged by the whalers he encountered ; 
but little dependence could be placed upon him. The strongest 
agreement.would be instantly set at naught whenever he saw any 
thing more likely to conduce to his own interest. 

In the present case Ugarng was using all his powers of persua- 
sion to induce every Innuit to leave our locality and go with him. 
What his real motive was I can not say ; but it is probable that 
now, when there was abundance to be had by hunting and seal- 
ing, he — who disliked the restraints of civilization — wanted to go 
farther away, and to take along all his friends, relatives, and ac- 
quaintances, so as to be perfectly and absolutely free. He tried 
every means to induce Ebierbing and Tookoolito to go with him, 
and for a time there was some hesitation on their part about it; 
but their attachment to me prevailed, and neither of them would 
consent to go. A general migration, however, did take place. 
Many of the Innuits accompanied I '._'arng; and I afterward heard 
that several others, as Annawa, Artarkparu, and all belonging and 
known to them, went away about the same time from the whaling 
(where a few of the ships' crews still remained to look for 
whales), taking their course up Frobisher Bay. 

a rng's party consisted of his two wives, Kunniu and Punnie; 



330 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXl'EDITIOST. 

infant, Me-noun ; nephew, Eterloong ; and his aged mother, Ooki- 
joxy Ninoo, besides Johnny Bull and his wife Kokerzhun, Bob 
and his wife Polly, Blind George and his daughter Kookooyer, 
and, lastly, E-tu the ivifeless. 

About the time the great leave-taking took place between these 
unsophisticated children of the North and Ebierbing with his 
wife, an incident occurred that especially deserves to be recorded. 
There was an Innuit young man named E-lu, who had lately- 
joined the natives here from some other place. This Etu I had 
noticed as somewhat singular in his ways, and remarkable in his 
appearance. He was much under the protection or rule of 
Ugarng, and seemed to be his willing follower. 

Now Ugarng wanted little Ookoodlear (cousin of Ebierbing 
and niece of Ugarng) to marry this Etu, but she unhesitatingly 
expressed her dislike to the proposal. 

On the day of Ugarng and his company's departure, I was on 
shore to bid them all farewell. 

About the time this company of Innuits was ready to start for 
Cornelius Grinned Bay (July 15th), I went over to Whale Island. 
As I arrived there I looked toward Look-out Island, and found 
that the boat of Bob's, with several natives, was on the move 
southeast toward the open water. The boat was lashed upon a 
sledge drawn by a portion of Ebierbing's clogs, the natives assist- 
ing in pushing. Just by "Whale Island was Ugarng's sledge load- 
ed with rupics, and nearly in readiness for the final start. 

I went into Ebierbing's tupic, and there found Tookoolito busy 
in attending to her friend Kokerzhun's departure. These two 
women were strong friends, and the separation for what would 
probably be a long time was evidently painful; but I saw some 
one else also much affected. Little Ookoodlear was weeping as 
if her heart would break, and, on inquiry, I ascertained it was be- 
cause Ugarng wanted to take her away and marry her to Etu. 
So great was her dislike to the young man that nothing but force 
would make her his wife. 

Ebierbing, seeing the wretchedness of her mind on the subject, 
went, in company with Koodloo, to Etu, and told him that the 
girl was yet too young to marry, and that, moreover, she did not 
like him. This explanation had some effect, and Ookoodlear was 
allowed to remain behind on Ebierbing declaring that he and his 
wife would be her protectors. 

I heard a most extraordinary account of this Etu. It seems 
that, in consequence of something that happened to his mother be- 



SPOTTED BOY.— BREVOOKT ISLAND.— CAPE MUKCHISON. 331 

fore he was born, the poor infant came into the world marked all 
over with snow-white spots and black spots, just like a kou-oo-lik, 
a large spotted kind of seal. The father, looking upon this spot- 
ted child as a monster — a living curse in his family — determined 
to get rid of him, and accordingly conveyed the boy to Ki-lci-tuk- 
ju-a, i. e., Long Island, called by me Brevoort Island,* the southern 
point of which is Cape Murchison.'f- This island was quite desti- 
tute of means of subsistence, and, to appearance, the poor boy was 
left there to perish by starvation. Strange to say, however, Etu 
lived on. He succeeded in catching partridges with his hands, an 
act never before or since known to have been done by Innuits. 
Thus the summer passed on, and winter approached. Still he 
lived, subsisting upon whatsoever he could find in the shape of 
food, a wild hermit-boy, on a solitary, almost unapproachable isl- 
and, far from his fellow-beings. Eelease came to him in the fol- 
lowing manner : 

One day a party of Innuits visited the island, and, to their as- 
tonishment, saw this young child standing upon a rock looking at 
them. He was like a statue, and they, knowing the place to be 
uninhabited, could hardly tell what to think of it. At length 
they went toward him, and he, seeing them kindly disposed, at 
once rushed into their arms, and was thus saved from the cruel 
death intended for him by his inhuman father. 

Since then he had grown to manhood, being, when I saw him. 
about twenty -five years old. He had had three wives, none of 
which remained to him. The first was accidentally drowned ; 
the second was taken away by her mother ; and the third — her fate 
I never learned. His intended fourth, Ookoodlear, who was only 
about thirteen years old, escaped in the way I have mentioned. 

Etu's fortune was a hard one. Few liked him. He seemed to 
be tabooed from his youth, and as if always destined to be an out- 
cast, because Nature had put marks upon his body, making him 
to differ from others of his kind. "Whether it was the knowledge 
of this isolation that made him a lazy and indifferent hunter, I 
can not say ; but certain it is, such was the character he had, and 
it redounds to the credit of Ugarng that he gave the poor fellow 
the hand of friendship in the way he did. 

* So named after J. Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn, New York. This is a very 
long and prominent island south of the cape, on the west side of the entrance to 
Northumberland Inlet ; its southern cape — Capo Morcnison — is nearly on a paral- 
lel with the north entrance to Cornelius Cirinnrll Bay. 

+ Named after Sir Roderick I. Mnrchison, of London, England. Cape Mtirchi- 
son, the south extreme of Brevoort Island, is in lat. G3° 13' N., long. 03° 55' W. 



332 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XX. 



i 



The George Henri/ free from her icy Prison. — Dog " Smile" capturing a Seal. — Fresh 
Fish caught. — Another Trip to the Whaling Depot. — Immense Flocks of Ducks. 
— Large Shoals of Walrus. — A Walrus-attack on the Boat. — Islands in Frobisher 
Bay. — Innuit Diseases. — Consumption. — Sharkey's Wife. — " Las-as-ses." — In- 
nuit love for Sweets. — Return Trip through Lupton Channel. — French Head 
again. — Corpse of John Brown gone. — All the Ice disappeared. — Great Heat. — 
Traveling over broken Ice. — Dangerous Leaps. — The Rescue's Ghost. — Supersti- 
tion of Sailors. — Ice-floes pressing on the Ship. — Great Danger. — The "Ghost" 
again appears. — Author's attempt to form a Vocabulary. — Aid of Tookoolito. — ■ 
The Innuits fast passing away. — Return of all the Crew from Whaling Depot.. — 
Mate Rogers. — Incidents of his Trip up the Bay. — Serious Illness of some Innuits. 
— Starvation. — A good Harbor. — Eating Ducks raw. — Arrival on Board. — Au- 
thor's Plans for exploring. — Leaves the Ship. — Takes up his Abode with the Na- 
tives. — The George Henry departs. — Author's Visit to the Rescue's Hull. — Arctic 
Robins. — Unexpected Return of the Ship. — Ebierbing sick. — Jennie, the Angeko. 
— Practice of Ankooting. — Philosophy of the Operation. — Opening for Missionary 
Enterprise. — Pemmican, best Mode of preparing it. — Author Visits the Ship. — 
Returns to Whale Island. — Ankooting again. — Solemnity of the Company pres- 
ent. — Superstition. — Nice Distinction as to what is Work. — Final Visit to the 
Ship. — Natives' Doubts removed.. — Crew completed. — The Fashions. — Suzhi the 
heaviest Innuit. — Preparations for the Boat Voyage nearly made. 

On Wednesday morning, the 17th of July, 1861, we were de- 
lighted to find that our ship had broken from her eight months' 
imprisonment during the past night, and now swung to her chains 
in the tidal waters of Eescue Harbor. But it was only in a pool 
she was free. Ice still intervened between our anchorage and 
the main bay, and we could do nothing but wait yet longer with 
whatever patience we could command. I myself Tvas getting 
quite impatient. Time was passing on, and no chance yet of- 
fered' for my going away on one or other of my intended explo- 
rations. What could I do? I was, at times, as if crazy; and 
only a walk on some island, where I could examine and survey, 
or a visit to my Innuit friends, helped to soothe me. But the 
reader will feel little interest in all this; I will therefore pass on 
to some other incidents of my voyage. 

Ebierbing had been out one day with dogs and sledge where 
the ice was still firm, when suddenly a seal was noticed ahead. 



SLEDGE AND BOAT TRIP. 



333 



In an instant the dogs were off toward the prey, drawing the 
sledge alter them at a marvelous rate. The seal for a moment 
acted as if frightened, and kept on the ice a second or two too 
long, for just as he plunged, "Smile," the noblest-looking, best 
leader, seal, and bear dog I ever saw, caught him by the tail 
and flippers. The seal struggled violently, and so did dog Smile, 
making the sledge to caper about merrily ; but in a moment more 
the other dogs laid hold, and aided in dragging the seal out of his 
hole on the ice, when Smile took it wholly in charge. The prize 
was secured this time wholly by the dogs. 




I-ICELs A M:.VL. 



On the 18th we had an excellent supper of fresh fish, caught by 
the Innuits with spears and hooks among the ice cracks ; and al- 
most daily something fresh was added to our food. 

At this time most of the ship's crew were again at the whaling 
depot, cruising in every direction for whales. Indeed, Mate Eog- 
ers and some of the men bad been left there to keep a look-out 
when the captain came away, to see about getting the vessel round, 
and frequent communication had, as usual, been maintained. 

On the 23d it was necessary to send a supply of sundries to the 
company there, and a boat's crew were dispatched, I accompany- 
ing them. 

As the ice still hung together between the ship and open water 
in the bay, the boat was lashed upon a sledge drawn by dogs, my 
favorite Barbekark being one, and away we started, arriving at 
the sea-edge of the ice in about two hours' time. There we launch- 
ed the boat, and were soon bounding along upon the sparkling 



33-i AltCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

waves toward Lupton Channel. Many seals were seen bobbing 
their heads above water; and, as we entered among the islands 
within the channel, ducks were to be seen in every direction, some 
flying, some in the water, and some on the islands. They were 
in such numbers that, when above us, they almost darkened the 
air. Nearly all were Icing ducks (males), their mates being en- 
gaged in domestic affairs at home — sitting — while the "lords of 
the house" were gathering food for them. 

In passing through the channel and Bear Sound the tide was 
favorable, and swept us along with great rapidity. Occasionally 
we were in a mill-race of waters, and it required much care to 
navigate the boat. 

At a quarter past 4 P.M. we reached the whaling depot, dis- 
tant about thirty miles, having been eleven hours coming from 
the ship. 

We found the officers and men all well and in good condition. 
They had lived on ducks, duck eggs, seal, walrus, and venison, 
which they had in abundance, but they were much disheartened 
at their poor success in whaling. Not a whale had been caught 
since the past fall. Walrus in any numbers could be obtained, 
and many had been secured for their skins and tusks ; but the 
main object of the voyage had as yet been a failure. 

With reference to the walrus, Mr. Sogers told me that one day, 
when out cruising for whales, he went, with two boats and crews, 
half way across Frobisher Bay, and then came to an iceberg one 
hundred feet above the sea, and, mounting it, with a sj^y-glass, 
took a look all around. Whales there were none; but walrus— 
"Why," to use his figurative- but expressive words, "there were 
millions out on the pieces of ice, drifting with the tide — walrus in 
every direction — millions on millions." 

On their way back, Mr. Lamb, in charge of the second boat, had 
a fight with some walrus in the following manner. Approaching 
a piece of ice on which some of these creatures were basking, he 
attacked one of them, whereupon all the rest immediately rushed 
toward the boat, and vigorously set upon him and his crew. For 
a time it seemed necessary to fly for safety ; but all hands resisted 
the attack, and would have got off very well, but that one of the 
walrus herd pierced the boat's side with his tusks, and made the 
invaders retreat to repair damages. Mr. Lamb had to drag his 
boat upon an ice-floe near by, and stuff in oakum to stop a seri- 
ous leak thus caused. Finally he succeeded, though with some 



SWIFT TIDES IN BEAR SOUND. 335 

difficulty, in getting back, and thus ended his encounter with a 
shoal of walrus. 

Witb reference to Frobisher Bay, I may here mention that, on 
taking a look with my glass from " Flag-staff Hill," adjoining this 
whaling depot, and sweeping around from the southeast extreme 

of Meta Incognita toward the land I recently visited (the drea 

land), I was astonished to see, just on the horizon, what appealed 
to be islands stretching nearly across. One of the Innuits (Shar- 
key) told me that he had been to those islands, and that his peo- 
ple sometimes make a passage across the entrance of the bay by 
starting on the Kingaite side, and then striking from one island to 
the other, by way of Too-jar-choo-ar (Resolution Island), until able 
to make the distance (avoiding the dreaded district) to the place 
where we then were — Cape True. Years ago reindeer were very 
numerous on those islands, but at last the moss failed and they all 
died. Their horns and bones are to be found scattered all over 
the place. Polar bears are plenty there. 

I was sorry to find several of my Innuit friends at this place 
very sick from the complaint that was introduced to their race 
when first brought into contact with civilization, viz., consump- 
tion. Sharkey's wife was rapidly declining. Her bleeding at the 
lungs had left her white as the driven snow, and poor as fleshlcss 
bones could be. 

I will here relate an anecdote, which will serve to show how 
fond some of the Innuits are of sweets, as well as of fat or blubber. 

Mr. Rogers was carrying along over the rocks a jug of "las-as- 
ses," as the Innuits pronounce molasses. All at once the bottom 
of the jug dropped out, and the contents splashed down, his hand 
flying up as if an electric shock from a strongly-charged battery 
had been given him. Quick as it was noised about, the spot 
sweetened over with the " lasasses" was not unlike a sugar hogs- 
head near a bee-hive on a warm sunny day. The Innuits, men, 
women, and children, crowded round it to lick up the sweet mix- 
ture ! 

After arranging all matters that Captain B had asked my 

attention to, and enjoying a good rest in one of the officers' tents, 
we started on our way back to the ship, taking with us several 
Baddies of venison, half a dozen brace of ducks, and other good 
things for those on board. 

When about half way through Bear Sound, the commotion and 
roar of the waters were such as no person who has not witnessed 



336 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



the like could form an adequate idea of. Small icebergs were 
swept along, roundabout, this way and that way, at a speed of full 
eight knots an hour. On one side piles of ice were carried swift- 
ly to the south, and on the other side ice was sweeping in the con- 
trary direction. The turmoil and confusion seemed almost de- 
moniac. At length the surging ceased for a while, and then it 
began again, every thing to appearance being in readiness for a 
race up toward Lupton Channel. And so it continued, obliging 
us to ply the long steering-oar briskly to keep the boat in its 
course, as we were borne along with the rapid tide. 

When we got out of the channel a fresh breeze helped us on- 
ward until we came near "French Head," when it failed. Here 




FKENCH 11EAP. 



all the ice had disappeared and gone down the bay, thus, at last, 
carrying to the great sea the mortal remains of poor John Brown, 
there soon depositing them to rest quietly beneath the waters that 
link together people of all nations of the earth. He now lies 
buried in the world's great grave-yard. Nature, however, marks 
the spot where he must have fought valiantly the last battle of 



PERILOUS PASSAGE ON THE ICE. 337 

life. The bluff stands out boldly to view whenever any one may 
be navigating in or near Field Bay. "French Head? is a niunu- 
ment as enduring as the everlastiug mountains. 

At 4 P.M. we reached the ice-lloe, and there re-lashed the boat 
upon a sledge sent forward ready for our arrival. The ice was 
very much worse than it had been the previous morning, and we 
fell through it in many places. Finally we reached the ship at 8 
P.M., greatly fatigued with the laborious exertions we had made. 

At this time the heat was almost overpowering. On the 25th 
of July, at 2 P.M., the mercury stood at 95° in the sun, and no 
work could be done except when we were clad in the lightest gar- 
ments. What a contrast to the period only a few weeks past, 
when my reindeer furs were needed. 

The day after my return to the ship I visited the tupics on 
shore, and took sundry articles of my apparel for Tookoolito and 
the other women to put in order for me, as they generally did. 
On the way I had far more difficulty than I anticipated. Two of 
the sailors had brought me in a boat as far as the broken ice 
would permit, and then I proceeded toward the shore by moving 
from one piece of ice to another. But it soon became evident 
that there was much dangerous work ahead. The ice around the 
shores and about the harbor and bay was now disappearing like 
dew before the morning sun. I was indeed surprised to find the 
changes that had taken place within one day. Several wide 
chasms between boulders of shore-ice had to be crossed, and my 
leaps were often made with more or less danger of getting a down- 
fall into the briny deep. Now and then I was obliged to throw 
my pack in advance, and then go back for a good run, so as to 
make my flying leap sure to carry me over the yawning gulf. 
For a full hour did I work thus to accomplish a distance of per- 
haps twenty rods. Now I would be upon a small piece of ice, 
pushing along as though it were a boat. Soon as I reached an- 
other piece I would have to run on to it ; thence to another, leap- 
ing cracks and channels that would certainly have made my hair 
stand on end at an earlier period of my life. At length I reached 
the last piece between myself and the shore. It was divided from 
the beach by a breach of some considerable distance ; but there 
was no alternative ; leap it I must. Therefore I first threw my 
pack ashore, which went into a pool of water on the rocks, and 
then, with a good run, made a great spring, which fortunately just 
carried me on to terra firma, 

Y 



338 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Many of these occurrences are common enough in the life of an 
arctic voyager ; but I mention this one as a passing incident, and 
to show what was the state of the ice around our ship at the time 
we were all so desirous of moving her. 

In the evening I got on board again without much difficulty, as 
a boat came for me to firm ice, which I had gained. 

The following morning, July 27th, all the ice about the vessel 
had nearly gone, though there were still some heavy pieces inter- 
vening between us and the outer bay. But what especially 
causes me to remember this da}' was the sudden disappearance of 
the wrecked Rescue. On looking toward Cooper's Island, where 
her hull had remained for so many months, we were surprised to 
find it gone. The waters had floated it away, and, for a moment, 
we fancied nothing; more of the famous schooner would a»ain be 
seen, unless away toward or on the great sea. But shortly after- 
ward, on visiting "Whale Island, close by, we saw that the Rescue 
had drifted off with the tide, and had got in to the narrow chan- 
nel of open water that then surrounded the island. " The i?es- 
c«€," says my journal, " seems yet to live ; she has navigated her- 
self completely around Cooper's Island since early this morning. 
She sweeps around slowly and — I was about to say — prettily." 

The Rescue was doomed to wander about " like a ghost" — as 
some of the men said — for days. By the alternate ebb and flow 
of the tide, she was carried seaward, to be brought back to her 
old place, then to be carried out again. Then back again she 
came, dancing from place to place, like the ever-changing ice 
sconces surrounding her. She made the circuit of another island 
southeast of Cooper's, and again came near to us ; and so in and 
out, dancing here and moving there, the poor Rescue played about 
ns, until at length her very presence seemed to cause a supersti- 
tious dread. This was especially so when another day, and yet 
another, passed on, and still our vessel could not be moved away. 

As an illustration of this superstitious feeling among the sea- 
men, it may be mentioned that the want of success attending the 
George Henry in whaling was attributed to the circumstance of 
bringing the Rescue with them as a tender. Some said she had 
never been any thing but a drawback since first built, and that 
she had nearly caused the loss of numbers of lives ; now she 
seemed to hang about them as an omen of ill luck — as a ghost! 

At 8 P.M. of the 27th of July the breeze freshened up strongly 
from TV. and "W.N.W. Soon the ice yet in the vicinity of the 



THE "GEORGE HENRY" IN DANGER.— THE GHOST. 



339 



vessel began to move, and in heavy patches came toward the ship. 
All the crew had retired to rest except the captain and myself, 
but the men were quickly called up to ward off the threatened 
danger. On came the ice, directly toward the ship. A portion 
struck the cable, and strained it till the metal tinkled like steel. 
Fortunately, a projecting point of Cooper's Island partly arrested 
the entire floe of ice, and thus broke the shock ; yet the strain 
upon the ship's cable was intense. Men were ordered to get over 
the bow on to the floe with chisels and other implements, to cut 
away that portion pressing upon the chains, which was done aft- 
er some hard work. But we fully believed the ship was drag- 
ging her anchor, and at this precise moment, lo ! the immortal 
Rescue was seen, like the ghost in Hamlet, emerging from the 
mist, and moving on from near Cooper's Island straight to the 
very spot where she had been at anchor when overtaken by the 
hurricane which had wrecked her. The instant she was discov- 
ered, an exclamation burst from the crew that the very acme of 
bad luck seemed to have reached them ! They never could do 




any thing until that curse was out of sight ! Indeed, some of the TV 

expressions used about her were much stronger, and certainly, to 



340 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

others less interested in the Rescue than myself, her appearance so 
often, and apparently in such mystic form, was enough to cause 
annoyance, if not actual superstitious dread. 

All through that night great vigilance was needed in guarding 
the vessel, for the ice pressed tremendously upon her, and in the 
morning men were again at work cutting the floe. Finally they 
succeeded in separating a part that strained most upon the cable, 
and thus we escaped the greatest danger. 

On July 28th, in the morning, I went over to Whale Island and 
brought Tookoolito on board, to continue the work begun some 
time previous of getting up a vocabulary of the Innuit of these 
regions for collation with Parry's, compiled on his second voyage 
up Hudson's Straits. Tookoolito was very serviceable in this. 
She gave me valuable explanations of words, and also expedi- 
tiously interpreted into her own tongue portions of the " Progress- 
ive Eeader" which I had previously presented to her. 

In reference to this really important matter t the following ex- 
tract from my journal at the time may be here brought forward. 
I said : 

" Oh that such a noble Christianizing work was begun here as 
is now established in Greenland ! What a valuable aid for it 
could be found in Tookoolito ! Will not some society, some peo- 
ple of civilization, see to this matter ere this noble race pass 
away ? * * * It seems to me that the days of the Innuits 
are numbered. There are very few of them now. Fifty years 
may find them all passed away, without leaving one to tell that 
such a people ever lived." 

At this time the men that had remained at the whaling depot 
were summoned on board the ship, and on the evening of the 28th 
it was reported that some of them were coming. I went on deck, 
and asked one of the sailors, whom we called " Spikes," who was 
then on watch, where they were. Ue replied, He didn't exactly 
know, but thought they might be that way — pointing to an island 
southeast of us — for he heard voices in that direction. I listened, 
and then gave a shout. But my first idea was that Spikes had 
been mistaken, as the echoes of Innuit voices on Whale Island 
were often heard. Soon, however, I was satisfied. An answer- 
ing shout from white men came back to mine. A boat, therefore, 
was soon manned by Smith, myself, Spikes, Bill, and j r oung Smith, 
and away we went in the direction whence the sound had come. 

We made a quick passage down the harbor as far as open wa- 



ALL HAXDS ABOARD. 341 

ter permitted ; then we struck into broken ice, where our prog- 
ress became slower. But, by the good steering of the elder Smith, 
we still pushed on, oftener using the ice for our oars to rest against 
than water. "We passed the " Ghost," which was now floating 
with the tide ; and her bow — or so much of it as was above wa- 
ter — became a resisting medium on which the starboard oars of 
our boat found hold in several heavy pulls. 

Presently we came to a desolate island, and on it we found 
Morgan, Bailey, Keeney, and Ebierbing, who had come from a 
point some three miles below, and made their way there by trudg- 
ing over ice, ferrying across spaces of water on drifting ice, wad- 
ing, etc. This party was but a small portion of the one that left 
the whaling depot in the morning for the ship. The remainder 
had stopped for the night at a point below, where, owing to the 
ice, the boats they had with them could not be taken farther. 
Morgan and his company, however, felt determined to try and 
reach the vessel that night, but had run great risks in so doing. 
The ice between the islands below was all in a disruptured state, 
and only by great daring did they succeed in getting to the place 
where we found them. In making across several channels their 
only way was to find a fragment of floating ice, place themselves 
upon it, and paddle over by a small piece of board which they 
found. We succeeded in getting this party to the vessel ; and, 
finally, Mates Bogers, Gardiner, and Lamb, each with his boat and 
crew, also arrived, though not without great difficulty on account 
of the ice which they encountered on their way. And thus the 
whole ship's company were safe on board. 

The information given me by Mr. Bogers I found very inter- 
esting. It was as follows: 

On the day I left the whaling depot, Bogers — who, with an 
Innuit crew, had gone up Frobisher Bay — arrived at the native 
settlement beyond Evictoon. Here they found Sampson, Ook- 
goo-al-loo, their families, and the old lady Innuits, whom I met 
the previous April, as mentioned page 266. For some time Sog- 
ers did not recognize Sampson, though well acquainted with him, 
for he was completely changed in appearance, and not much more 
than a mere skeleton. He was informed that, some weeks before, 
a little pimple made its appearance near Sampson's left breast. 
It received a scratch. Inflammation followed, and this had in- 
creased so much that his very vitals were being eaten out. The 
sight was horrible ! No Innuit of Eogers's crew dared behold it. 



342 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Nothing was done, or could then be done, to alleviate Sampson's 
distress or arrest the progress of his disease, which was evidently, 
as Rogers thought, a cancer. It was neglected, and the dirt, tuk- 
too hair, etc., that were allowed to accumulate within it, irritated 
the sore and hastened its progress. 

Ookgooalloo was also confined to his tupic, unable to sit up. 
and spitting blood. And the other Innuits seemed to be all starv- 
ing, only one man being in a condition to go out and hunt for 
food. On the following morning Rogers started for an island a 
little farther up, and arrived there at 11 A.M. While there he 
visited a place in which, he was informed by the natives, a good 
harbor could be found; and he saw that such was the case for 
small vessels, but not for the George Henry, as only eight feet wa- 
ter, and this over black sandy bottom, could be found. He re- 
mained an hour there, and then struck a course direct down the 
bay for the whaling depot. The wind, however, came against 
him with so great force that he was obliged to make for Samp- 
son's settlement, and remain there for that night. Next morning 
he again set out, and on the way his Innuit crew killed many 
ducks, which they ate raw. Rogers was offered some, but he 
said to me, " I could not go that." He arrived at the whaling 
de"pot, at Cape True, about 11 P.M. on the 26th, and finally re- 
turned to the ship as already stated. 

The return of the George Henry's crew on board, and the break- 
ing up of the ice, were the signal for the ship's departure to anoth- 
er place, to try anew the chances of whaling ; but with all relating 
to such work, except where it is connected with my own personal 
labors, I have nothing to do. My task was that of research, ex- 
ploration, and discovery, and not to aid in the capture of whales, 
albeit that, in itself, was an exciting and adventurous occuj^ation. 
I had come to the North for another and, to me, a more glorious 
purpose. When, therefore, the time approached for the vessel to 
move away, the hour had also come for me to leave her and take- 
up my abode with the natives, as I had originally proposed. 
What my plans and intentions were, as noted and recorded at thc- 
time, I will now proceed to show. 

It was now the 28th of July, 1S61. In two or three days the 
vessel was to leave Rescue Harbor to cruise for whales. I intend- 
ed, therefore, to make a boat voyage to explore the so-called " Fro- 
bisher Strait," which had been proved to me, by Innuit testimony,* 
* See page 12G, and the Sketch Chart, page 125. 



AUTUOli LEAVES THE SHIP TO EXTLOUE. 343 

in the fall of 1860, while in Rescue Harbor, to be a bay. The 
course I purposed to pursue was down and across Field Bay to 
Lupton Channel and Bear Sound, and thence along the northern 
coast of the misnamed " strait" to its termination, and thence, if 
possible, down Kiugaite (Meta Incognita) side ; then crossing over 
to "North Foreland," and returning to Field Bay by way of the 
south side of the i; dreaded laud," and thence through Bear Sound 
and Lupton Channel. The boat which I now had was not as 
good by any means as I should have wished, but I was obliged to 
make it answer. My crew were to be all Innuits. I had ar- 
ranged for Ebierbiug and Tookoolito, Koodloo and Jennie his 
wife, and probably Jennie, sister of Ebierbing, to be of the party, 
with Suzhi also, who was likely to be exceedingly useful, in con- 
sequence of her great strength, notwithstanding her weight, which 
was not less than 200 pounds. I expected to be gone two months, 
at the end of which time, if the vessel should still be hereabouts, 
I would again rejoin her to return to the States. I earnestly 
hoped to succeed in accomplishing all this. God willing, I was 
resolved it should be done. 

The vessel was expected to sail on the 30th. I therefore gath- 
ered up some of the things I designed taking with me on my boat 
voyage, and carried them on shore to Ebierbing's tupic. 

On Tuesday, the 30th, A.M., preparations were made to weigh 
anchor. The time had come for me to leave. I placed such 
other things as I required in the old, rotten, leaky, and ice-beaten 
whale-boat with which I was to make my voyage to the head of 
Frobisher Bay. I also compared my chronometer with the Chorgi 
Henry's; my two assistants, Jennie and little Ookoodlear, were in 
the boat to pull me on shore, and now nothing remained but to 
take leave of captain, officers, and crew. 

It was done. The farewell was uttered. The George Henry 
was under sail, and I set out on my way to Whale Island, to com- 
mence life in earnest among the Esquimaux. I took up my 
abode in the tupic of Ebierbing and Tookoolito, other natives. 
relatives of theirs, being with us and near by. 

As I walked about — the only white man among them — my po- 
sition seemed, and in reality was, strange. At last alone ; the 
ship gone ; all of my own people, my own blood, my own lan- 
guage, departed; and now, by myself, to do whatever work I 
could. Well, this was what I designed. I would not despond. 
It was good. Freedom dwells iu the North — freedom to live as 



34J ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

one pleases, act as one pleases, and go where and -when one 
pleases ; so I determined to look brightly forward, placing all my 
dependence on God. 

I watched the ship's progress. She got along but slowly. 
There was a light wind from the southeast against her. It was 
tack, tack, all the day long. Every now and then I ascended a 
hill on the island to look at her. It was past meridian before she 
got down as low as Parker's Bay.* By evening she had reached 
French Head, but late in the P.M. had drifted back, evidently 
with the tide, to Parker's Bay. White clouds now capped the 
high land about there, which was the precursor of a storm. 

During the day, Sharkey, E-e-u-ar-ping (the latter the youngest 
son of Artarkparu), and a boat's crew of those Innuits remaining 
at Eescue Harbor, started off to French Head. Koodloo also, in 
my boat, with Suzhi and Ookoodlear, with the children, went 
among the islands ducking, but obtained only two ducks. Wish- 
ins to manufacture some balls of the lead which I had with me for 
my rifle and Koodloo's gun, the thought came into my head that 
the hull of the Rescue had still some hard coal in her, and that, by 
taking advantage of the low tide, I could obtain it ; therefore I 
and Koodloo, with Suzhi, went in the boat to the "ghost." The 
tide was still ebbing when we got alongside, but, on examination, 
it was found that the water inside of her was too deep to fish for 
coal. We therefore started elsewhere to fish for something else, 
or try for seal. We drew up to the point of an island to gratify 
the Innuits in killing some little birds about the size of our rob- 
ins at home, but here called by the natives sil;-yar-ung. They 
were too small game for the expense of powder, therefore Kood- 
loo tried to kill them by throwing stones, but failed, though they 
were by no means shy. We then rowed off to look for seals. 
Presently we saw one. My rifle was instantly raised, but just as 
I pulled the trigger a little boy in the boat lifted himself up and 
unsettled my aim. The seal went off, much to our vexation, as 
we had nothing on shore to eat except the two ducks. We again 
saw the seal, but were unable to kill it ; therefore we returned to 
the "ghost," and this time were able to enter her hull. After 
some trouble I succeeded in procuring about two and a half buck- 
ets of hard coal, and having had an old stove placed in my boat 
when I left the ship to leave on Whale Island, the present acqui- 
sition made it very serviceable. 

* Named after Captain John Parker, of null, England. Parker's Bay makes 
westward from Field Bay. and is in lat. G2° 48' N., and long. G4° 55' W. 



EBIERBING SICK.— THE FEMALE ANGEKO. 345 

In the evening Sharkey and ten more Innuits returned with- 
out any success in procuring food. Thus we had a large com- 
pany now here, and nothing to eat except the two ducks. True, 
I had a barrel of sea-bread, about twenty pounds of salt pork, a 
ninety-pound can of pemmican, ten pounds of coffee, two gallons 
of molasses, one pound of tea, and half a pound of pepper, all of 
which, excepting the pemmican, I procured at the ship by ex- 
change. But this stock was for my Frobisher Bay expedition, 
not for consumption here. Unfortunately, my right-hand man 
Ebierbing was now very sick, but I was in hopes I should bring 
him round again in two or three days. I had taken from the ves- 
sel my case of medicines, and with these I hoped to do him some 
good. I took one more look at the ship. There she was, still en- 
deavoring to get out of the bay, but with no wind to help her. I 
thought she would, perhaps, be out of sight before the morning. 
Farewell, then, I said in my heart, gallant ship, and may good luck 
attend you. Good-night to all. I then retired to my Innuit bed, 
among my honest, kind-hearted Innuit friends. 

On Wednesday, July 31st, hardly awake, and still on my sleep- 
ing-couch, I heard an exclamation of surprise from Tookoolito, 
who had gone outside the tuple. The wind was blowing a gale, 
with rain. Tookoolito's cry was, " Ship coming back I" Up I 
got, and, on rushing to the skin doorway, true enough, there was 
the George Henry nearly up the bay. I watched her. She ad- 
vanced still higher up, and presently dropped anchor northwest 
of us, some two or three miles off. The return of the George Hen- 
ry was wise, for the gale had become furious, and, had she contin- 
ued on, it might have driven her on shore lower down the bay. 
Once more, then, the ship and her company were near me. Lit- 
tle had I expected this when looking at her the evening before. 

I may here as well relate something very curious, which I have 
recorded under this date as having occurred during the previous 
night. Ebierbing was very ill, and both his wife and his aunt 
were alarmed. The latter went out at midnight, and brought in 
Jennie, wife of Koodloo, who is a female angcko, to practise on 
the sufferer. She took her position at once, sitting, Innuit fash- 
ion, in a corner of the tupic, facing from us, and proceeded with 
her incantations, while deep seriousness fell on all around. As 
went on,ejaculatory expressions of approbation were occasion- 
ally uttered by the persons present, as also by the patient Pres- 
ently Ebierbing became more calm, his pains seemed to decrease, 










346 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION". 

and finally he fell asleep, and actually slept well ! This is strange, 
most " passing strange ;" yet it is a fact that the ankootiug does 
seemingly benefit the patient, acting as a charm. The mind be- 
ing diverted from all thought of the clay house to something 
above which the soul aspires to reach, makes one forgetful that 
there is any thing like pain in his or her system. 

This people, knowing that I did not make fun of them or taunt 
them for believing as they do, had confidence in me, therefore I 
was a privileged one in their midst when ankooting was going 
on. It is against their customs to have any but the family pres- 
ent, but hitherto I have always had access to their meetings. 

Let Christians plant a colony among the western Innuits, as has 
been done in Greenland, and in time this people will become con- 
verts to Christianity, for that is the only true religion ; and the 
truth, when properly presented to honest minds, will be received 
with open hearts. 

Jennie is not only a good angeko professionally, but also of 
pleasing features, and would pass for handsome with many judges 
of beauty. 

On the 1st of August the weather still continued bad, with rain 
and mist. I was obliged to open my case of pemmican, and in 
doing so, found under the top a card, incased in tin, reading thus : 
" George Schlee, Cincinnati, Ohio. Farewell I" Though I am un- 
acquainted with the person whom this name represents, yet this 
told me that some one in the employ of JJ. W. Stephenson, of 
Cincinnati — the maker and sealer up of my pemmican cans — had 
kind thoughts and good wishes for me, though a stranger to him. 
"Farewell" is a word of rich import from well-known friends, 
but from a stranger, whose soul ma}' be beating in unison for the 
same noble cause to which one devotes his life, the word becomes 
almost sacred to the life and heart of the adventurer. 

The next day Ebierbing still continued very sick. Several of 
the natives took a boat and went up to the ship ; and I heard 
that she was to remain in the bay, seeking a secure harbor higher 
up. Later in the day I saw her under sail, but the fog soon closed 
her from my view. 

An extract from my journal of this date (Friday, August 2) 
runs thus : 

" This morning for breakfast cold rock pemmican. It goes 
better this way than when made into soup. The two families al- 
ready mentioned as members of the expedition trip I purpose to 




• 



PUMMTfiAW— VTRTT THE SHU'. ,",17 

make seemed to like it. A very little of this solid, rich food sat- 
isfies one's appetite. This article is eaten, not because it tastes 
good, for it does not, but to live. It is almost like eating tallow- 
caudles. One must have a sharp appetite to eat pemmicau in the 
usual way it is prepared. In the manufacture of mine I used the 
best of beef and beef suet in the place of what is generally used, 
to wit, beef and hog's fat. The composition consists of an equal 
weight of beef (dried and granulated) and beef suet, which are in- 
corporated while the latter is hot, and then put up in tin cans and 
hermetically sealed. Thus made and put up, it will keep good for 
years. One pound of my pemmican is ecpiivalent to two and a 
half pounds of fresh beef-steak. Four pounds of fresh beef, on be- 
ing dried, is reduced to a pound." 

At 2 30 P.M. I went up to make my call on Captain B in 

his new harbor, two and one half miles off, taking with me Kood- 
loo and other Innuits as my boat's crew. We soon arrived, and 
after the first greeting between us, I mentioned my desire to take 
Koojesse with me instead of Ebierbing, who was too sick to go on 
my Frobisher Bay trip. The arrangement was made, so far as 
concerned Captain B (he having pre-engaged Koojesse's serv- 
ices), and, after a short stay on board, I departed. 

There was some difficulty in getting back to my Innuit home, 
owing to both wind and tide being against me, and, when the isl- 
and was reached, my boat could not be hauled up on account of 
low water. I was therefore obliged to keep on the watch nearly 
all night, to guard against the danger of losing her. 

The night was a stormy one ; the rain, at times, descending in 
torrents, and the wind blowing furiously. Every now and then 
I enveloped myself in an oil-cloth suit, and went down to watch 
the condition of the boat. The tide would soon be up so far as 
to enable us to draw her on the beach ; so, thinking that all was 
right, I laid myself down to rest. 

About 2 A.M. of the 3d, however, I was aroused by invalid 
Ebierbing, who said that, from the noise, the sea was beating on 
shore. Immediately I went down to the boat, and, finding it in a 
precarious condition, called up all the natives, and with their aid 
at once had her dragged above reach of the sea. Tl 
again retired to my couch, and slept soundly till the musical voice 
of Angeko Jennie once more aroused me. Looking round, I saw 
she was renewing her professional practice over her patient. Too- 
koolito and Suzhi were seriously, I may Bay solemnly engaged in 




O 



34S ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the exercises, enthusiastically making their responses to Jennie's 
ejaculations. The effect upon the suffering patient, Ebierbing, 
was, as before, quite beneficial. 

On Sunday, the 4th of August, while in the tupic, I learned 
something that surprised me. On the previous day myself and 
some Innuits had gone ducking and sealing without any success. 
Now I was told that our ill luck was on account of our working 
during Ebierbing's sickness, as all of the natives, including intelli- 
gent Tookoolito, sincerely believe. They consider that it is wrong 
to work when one of their number is sick, and especially to work 
on skins that are intended to Iceep out water ; for instance, it is 
wrong to work making kum-ings (outside or water-proof boots) 
and covering for boats. 

The way I happened to find this out was as follows : I had ar- 
ranged for Koodloo to make a sealskin covering for Ebierbing's 
kia, and to put it on. This morning, as nothing else could be 
done on account of the bad weather, I asked Tookoolito if Kood- 
loo could not proceed with it. To my astonishment, she replied 
that " Innuits could not do such work at the present time." Her 
answer seemed to me so strange that I made farther inquiries of 
her, when she told me that "if they worked on the skins for the 
kia, Ebierbing would never get well ; he would die. The ' first 
Innuits 1 adhered to this custom, and they must too. All their peo- 
ple believe this, and could not help it. Many Innuits had died 
because of the working on skins for kias and kum-ings while 
one of their number about them was sick at the time." She add- 
ed, " The reason why Koodloo could not shoot any thing yester- 
day, though close by some ducks, was because wrong was done in 
working while Ebierbing lay sick." 

" But," said I to Tookoolito, as I was engaged chafing Ebier- 
bing's side and back, and applying liniment, " what are j t ou do- 
ing now but working?" 

She replied, holding up her hands full of needles that were fly- 
ing swiftly in knitting, "This is not work." 

Her answer nearly made me laugh aloud ; but I repressed the 
feeling, and quietly accepted her definition of what was or was 
not work. I was also told that during Ebierbing's sickness the 
angeko must do no work on any account. 

"We were now living on pemmican and coffee. I dealt out 
enough bread for Ebierbing, as he was sick, but there was no sup- 
ply for any of us yet. Sunday night was a stormy one, with the 



> 



LIFE AMONG INNUITS. 349 

wind from the northeast blowing almost a gale. Every thing 
was in a wet state, outside and in, except bedding and clothing. 
A flood of water occupied half of the tupic. 

It would astonish most people at home to see how comfortably 
I lived with the Innuits, like one of themselves. While I jotted 
down notes, or more fully wrote out notes previously made, Suzhi 
chanted some Innuit tunc, and Ebierbing and Tookoolito enjoyed 
what among civilized white folks would be a " tea-table chat." 
"We lived also, at times, on pemmican and kelp, a sea-weed gath- 
ered by the Innuits when the tide is out. These people are not 
exclusively flesh-eaters, for in the summer-time they occasionally 
gather and eat a few berries and leaves of stunted wild plants 
that grow sparsely in these regions. Both summer and winter 
they collect kelp, and eat it, but only as a sort of luxury, except 
in case of great scarcity of food, and then they fall back upon this 
resource. I have acquired a taste for this sea-weed, and eat it as 
they do, raw or boiled, in which latter state it is more tender. 

The stormy weather continued some days, and no work could 
be done. On Tuesday, August 6th, the wind blew a gale, with 
rain. On Wednesday we had a little better weather, and I went' 

over to the ship again to see Captain B . I hoped to set out 

on my trip up Frobisher Bay within a day or two. On Wednes- 
day evening, during ebb tide, the " ghost" of the Rescue drifted 
out of the harbor into the bay, and went seaward. I thought this 
was probably the last we should see of her. On the same even- 
ing I communicated to Ebierbing and Tookoolito my intended 
immediate departure, and informed them that I had made ar- 
rangements with the captain for their removal nearer the ship, so 
that Ebierbing might receive some better attention. They were 
sorrowful at my leaving, but hoped to see mc again before many 
weeks. 

I then requested Ebierbing to assist me in persuading Koodloo 
and his nuliana "Jennie" to accompany me, which would just 
complete my now proposed crew. I soon found that both Ebier- 
bing and Tookoolito were very loth to have the angeko (Jennie) 
leave while Ebierbing was sick. I therefore gave her up, accept- 
ing Koodloo's offer to go without her. 

On Thursday morning, the 8th of August, I found that Ebier- 
bing had slept better than for several nights past. At 9 A.M., 
while Koodloo was on the top of our island (Whale Island), he 
cried down to Tookoolito, who was making our morning coffee 






350 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

under the lee of some rocks, that a boat was coming from the 
ship. I ran up, and was delighted to find it so, for I knew by 
this that the proposals I had made to the Innuits Koojesse and 
Charley, whom, with their wives, I wanted for my crew, had been 
accepted ; and yet I was pained, as I thought of the necessity of 
leaving behind my faithful friends Ebierbing and Tookoolito. I 
hastened back, took my cup of coffee and dish of lump pemmican, 
and breakfasted. 

Well, the boat arrived, and brought me a note from Captain 

B . I told Ebierbing that we could now remove him and his 

effects ; that Captain B had kindly responded to my request, 

and sent down for him, and that so good an opportunity ought 
not to be lost. He was willing to do as I advised , but Koodloo 
was slow to move. Meanwhile almost a gale had sprung up in 
the east, rendering it inexpedient to venture to take Ebierbing to 
the ship in his weak state. As it was necessary to visit the ship 
prior to my final departure on the proposed voyage, I left Ebier- 
bing and Tookoolito with the assurance that I would call again 
the next day, and that they would be removed as soon as Ebier- 
bing could bear it and the weather should permit. "We arrived 
on board just at noon. Shortly after, Koojesse and Charley came 
aboard from the Innuit village near the ship, when I soon found 
that they were fearful I wished to prolong my stay at the head 
of Frobisher Bay until the cold weather, and, if so, they were not 
disposed to go. I therefore explained to them that I should prob- 
ably return in about a month, or, at farthest, in less than two 
months. They were then quite satisfied, and agreed to accom- 
pany me. My journal of this clay, August Sth, 1861, concludes 
thus : 

"As I meet Koojesse and Kooperneung (Charley), I find them 
in capital spirits. At tea their wives Tu-nuk-der-lien and Ak- 
clmk-er-zhun are aboard, and appear in good new dresses, and 
hair dressed in ' States fashion.' Converse with them of the voy- 
age we are about to make to ' ices-sec-iwlcd (far-off land). I am 

highly elated, my crew so far excellent. Captain B , with 

whom I have counseled, advises me to take Ebierbinsr's aunt, 
Koo-ou-le-arng (Suzhi), making, with Koodloo, a crew of six — five 
at the oars and one boat-steerer, leaving me free to be constantly 
on the look-out. The only objection to Suzhi is that she is very 
heavy, weighing not less than 200 pounds — the very heaviest In- 
nuit of the country. 



PREPARATIONS COMPLETE. 351 

"All arrangements are now made to start from the vessel early 

to-morrow morning. Breakfast is ordered by Captain B to 

be in readiness at 5 A.M. The Innuits are to strike their tupics, 
and have them in the boat, and be alongside at that hour. The 
weather is now good, and to-night gives every indication of a fair 
day to-morrow. May it prove so. I have taken out of the ship's 
" run" a can (ninety pounds) of pemmican, and one cask of ' Bor- 
den's' meat-biscuit (about one hundred pounds), brought with me 
from home. These I shall carry along in the boat, being the 
most condensed form of valuable provisions. Not that I expect 
these will be the only provisions I shall have, for there is reason 
to suppose we shall acquire much in going up Frobisher Bay in 
the way of ducks, seals, and reindeer, the latter when we arrive 
at the head of Frobisher Bay. 

"At a late hour I turn in, to rise early, that we may be off to 
reap the benefit of a fair tide not only in going down to, but pro- 
ceeding through Lupton Channel. An ebb tide will favor us 
much in getting to the channel, and the flood in getting through 
it." 



352 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Departure on Boat-voyage to explore Frobisher Bay. — An Innuit Crew. — Author 
the only White Man. — Arrives at Lupton Channel, and makes first Encampment. 
— Next Day's Journey. — Innuit Mode of drowning Ducks. — Joyousness of the 
Crew. — Passing through Bear Sound. — Visit the deserted Whaling Depot. — Sec- 
ond Encampment on Sharko. — Third Day's Trip. — A Bear-hunt in the Water. — 
Author's narrow Escape. — Land on Oopungnewing. — Musquitocs again. — Visit 
Niountelik. — Explore the Island. — Important Discovery. — "Sea-coal!" — Proof 
of Frobisher's Expedition having visited here. — Joy of the Author. — Corroborative 
Testimony of Innuits from Tradition. — Carefully examine a Deposit of Coal. — 
Return to Oopungnewing. — Great Feast on the Bear. — Innuit Customs. — Bear's 
Bladder and Charms. — Polar Bear's Liver poisonous. 

"Friday, August 9lh, 1861. I was up in good season, and got 
every thing in readiness ; then started off in a boat a company of 

young Innuits — 'trundle-bed Innuits,' as Captain B called 

them — who slept aboard the George Henry last night, to call up 
Koojesse, and Kooperneung, and their nuliauas (wives). 

" Breakfast was ready at the appointed moment, and the Innu- 
its of my company ready for it. This dispatched, my bag and 
baggage were placed snugly in the boat, along with the already 
well-packed assortment such as Innuits have. As usual in start- 
ing off, I compared chronometers. ***** 

" All in readiness and aboard, we start, purposing to stop at 
Whale Island for Koodloo, Koo-ou-le-arng (Suzhi), and my things, 
as well as to bid my Innuit children, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, 
good-by. All hands were on deck to witness our departure. 

Captain B 's smiling face, of course, was not wanting in the 

picture the scene presented. As the boat was pushed out into 
fair water for a ' white-ash breeze,' standing with stcering-oar in 

my hand, I asked Captain B if — ' in the name of God and the 

Continental Congress' — I should take possession of the country I 
was about to visit and explore, planting the American flag upon 
it. 

" He answering affirmatively, I then bade him and all adieu, 
expressing the hope that when I returned I should find every 
cask of the George Henry overflowing with oil, and all her decks 
filled hipfh with bone- 



EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 353 

'• We started from the vessel at 6 14 A.M., and arrived at Whale 
Island at 7. I found the Innuits, my friends Ebierbing and Too- 
koolito, expecting me. They seem to regret they can not accom- 
pany me on this trip. I was glad to find Ebierbing improving. 
Having spent a few moments with them, I told them that, to make 
out my crew, I must have Koo-ou-le-arng, Ebierbing's aunt, if they 
could spare her. In ten minutes she was ready for the journey 
of two months. I called on Koodloo, who made all haste in pre- 
paring to accompany me. Jennie, Koodloo's wife, as I have said, 
could not be spared, as Ebierbing and Tookoolito thought her in- 
dispensable in her profession as an angeko for the former while 
he is sick. 

"As we (Koodloo and I) had not succeeded in getting any thing 

of consequence in the way of fresh provisions for Ebierbing and 

Tookoolito during my stay upon "Whale Island, I left them the 

remainder of the can of pemmican on hand, also a small portion 

of the bread, coffee, and tea of the allotment to me for my Fro- 

bisher Bay trip. Captain B is to send a boat from the George 

Henry for these Innuits, also for Koodloo's wife and children, to 

remove them to the place where the other Innuits arc, near the 

present position of the vessel." 

******* 

It was 8 A.M. when we left Whale Island, Rescue Harbor, 
under sail. My comparry consisted of Koojcsse and his wife Tu- 
nuk-der-lien (" Belle"), Koo-per-ne-ung ("Charley"), and his wife 
Ak-ckuk-er-zhun (" Susy"), Kood-loo, and the widow Koo-ou-le- 
arng ("Suzhi"). They were all in excellent spirits as well as 
myself. In about forty minutes a boat came alongside manned 
with Innuits, who were on their way across the bay for a tuktoo 
hunt. 

From the ship to Whale Island, and also from Whale Island 
out into the bay, we encountered much ice that the wind and tide 
had driven in from Davis's Straits. Between Parker's Bay and 
French Head we made an island which I found to be entirely of 
rock, without aparticle of vegetation or of soil. An impenetrable 
fog had surrounded us nearly all the afternoon, and the boat com 
pass was in constant use until toward evening, when the fog be- 
to lift, Charley shot a seal at along distance with my rifle. 
Wc now had a raw set As we approached Lupton Chan- 

nel — which it was doubtful if wc could get through, on account 
of the quantity of ice — wc passed a berg, which Tunukderlicn as- 

Z 



354 ARCTIC EESEARCn EXPEDITION. 

cended. At 6 44 P.M. we reached the entrance of Lupton Chan- 
nel, and found a strong tide running into Field Bay, whirling, 
foaming, roaring, and boiling like a caldron. As we labored on, 
at our right were the iron cliffs of Bache's Peninsula,* and con- 
spicuous among them was a bold rock terminating like a chim- 
ney-top. On the left lay Lok's Land, the " much-dreaded land" 
of the Innuits ; and looking forward down the channel, we saw 
the bold front of Ellis Island. By dint of hard pulling we at 
last got through the channel, but I had to give up all idea of 
reaching Cape True that night, as had been my intention and 
hope. We therefore stopped at 8 P.M. in a small cove on the 
southeast side of Bache's Peninsula, and opposite to Ellis Island, 
and there made our first encampment, f Ducks were abundant, 
and the Innuits shot several. "We found wood plentiful, from the 
wreck of the Traveller. We were closely packed this first night 
out in our large tupic, after a glorious supper of seal, ducks, and 
coffee. 

Here we found relics of former Innuit encampments, circles of 
stones, bones of seal, walrus, etc. We saw a white whale making 
its way up the channel. 

Next morning, Saturday, August 10th, 1861, at 8 A.M., we pro- 
ceeded on our \oyagQ. In passing down through Bear Sound, 
soon after leaving, I witnessed a novel proceeding on the part 
of my companions. It consisted in drowning some of the ducks 
that played about us in large numbers. This cruel method of 
obtaining game was used to save shot and powder, and the man- 
ner of accomplishing it is as follows : 

A flock of ducks was seen swimming some distance ahead of 
us. As we approached, most of them flapped their wings and 
flew away, but the rest dived below the surface of the water. 
One of them was selected for the subject of Innuit amusement, 
thus : whenever it popped its head out of water, the natives made 
a great noise, accompanied with every conceivable motion, throw- 
ing about their hands and arms to frighten the bird down again. 
On its reappearance, wherever it showed itself, the boat was steer- 
ed by Koojesse toward it. Then the same noise and frantic ges- 
tures were repeated, and continued without intermission, so as to 

* I have named this peninsula after A. D. Bache, Superintendent of the United 
States Coast Survey. It is hounded by Field Bay, Lupton Channel, Bear Sound, 
and Chapel] Inlet. 

t First encampment in lat. C2° 33' N., long. G4° 43' W. 




Passim; TUBOUan LOFTON CHANNEL. 



NOVEL DUCK-HUNT. 357 

allow not one moment's breathing-time to the terrified duck. 
Koodloo stood on the bow of the boat, pointing out the course 
taken by the duck, which could be easily traced in the clear wa- 
ters below, and on the instant of the sign being given, Koojesse 
most expertly turned the boat in the direction indicated. In 
1 minutes the duck gave up the chase. It came to the sur- 
face utterly exhausted, and was easily captured by Koodloo, who 
hauled it in with his hand. 

The joyous feelings displayed by the Innuits over this capture, 
which was to them a source of amusement, was hardly less than 
if they had killed a Ninoo. The rocks and hills bordering on 
Bear Sound resounded with their joyous shouts and boisterous 
laughter. Echo sent back their merry voices, until I myself, 
though vexed at any delays that might retard us, could not help 
joining in the hilarity of the scene. 

This way of securing ducks was continued for some time, and 
ended with what was to me an affecting trait of nature, always 
touching to the heart. One of the ducks caught was a mother, 
with its young still unfledged. The parent was dying, and the 
fledgling, at each gasp of its mother, would place its beak in con- 
tact with that of its parent, as if soliciting food, and then crouch 
beneath the old duck's wings to nestle there. Again and again 
was this done, as if trying all its power to attract the watchful at- 
tention of its mother ; but it was soon left alone, and Tunukder- 
lien then took care of it. 

So much time had been consumed in drowning ducks and in 
sealing that the tide was now against us, forcing us to hold over a 
while ; therefore we landed on Lefferts Island,* which is in the 
midst of Bear Sound. Here I took a walk back upon the island 
while the Innuits were feasting on ducks and seal. At meridian 
I took observations for latitude, and soon after we again started, 
making our way down on the west side of the sound. The ducks 
we now saw were innumerable ; the water and air were black with 
them. 

On arriving at Cape True, the old whaling depot, we rested a 
while, and I examined the now deserted place. Of course no 
white man's tent or Innuit tupics were to be seen, but several frag- 
ments denoted what had existed there. 

Frobisher Bay had no ice upon its waters except a few bergs. 

* So named by me nftcr Marshall !.• Berts, of New York City. This island is the 
largest in Bear Sound. 



;;.-,s ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and not a ripple disturbed its glassy surface. This compelled us 
to use the oars for some time after leaving this place, and what 
with the many stoppages made for game by my Innuit compan- 
ions, and a fog that afterward settled upon us, it was a tedious 
passage to our second encampment, which was at Cape Cracroft,* 
a point of land connected by a narrow neck with Blunt's Penin- 
sula,! instead of at Niountelik, as we had expected. 

We passed the night as the previous one, and the next morn- 
ing again proceeded direct for Oopungnewing Island. The same 
kind of tantalizing but exciting chase after ducks delayed us con- 
siderably, until when about two miles from Oopungnewing. Koo- 
jesse was steering, when, suddenly taking up my spyglass, and 
directing it to some islets near Oopungnewing, he cried out, " Ni- 
noo ! Ninoo !" This was enough to make each of the boat's crew 
spring into new life, for of all game that they delight in Ninoo is 
the chief. They started ahead with fresh vigor, the women pull- 
ing hard, but as noiselessly as they could, and the men loading 
their guns ready for the attack. I relieved Koojesse at the steer- 
ing-oar. 

When we first saw Ninoo we were about two miles distant from 
it, and I could perceive this " lion of the North" lying down, ap- 
parently asleep ; but when within half a mile Ninoo saw us, raised 
himself upon his haunches, looked around, then fixedly at us, and 
off he started. Immediately the men began to make some most 
hideous noises, which arrested Ninoo in his course, and caused 
him to turn round. This was what we wanted, to gain time in 
the chase which had now begun. But Ninoo was not so easily en- 
trapped. His stay was only for a moment. Off he went again, 
flying over the island, and quickly disappearing. Then, with a 
strong pull, and a firm, steady one, the boat was sent swiftly along. 
Presently a point of the islet where we had seen Ninoo was 
rounded, and again we beheld him far ahead of us, swimming di- 
rect for Oopungnewing. This encouraged the Innuits. They re- 
newed their shouts without intermission. Every now and then 
the object of our pursuit would wheel his huge form around, and 
take a look at his pursuers ; and now the chase became very ex- 

* This cape, at the southeast side of the entrance to the Countess of Warwick? 
Sound (of Frobisher), I name after Miss Cracroft, niece of Lady Franklin. It is in 
lat. 62° 41' 30" N., long. G5° 07' W. 

t The land bounded by Bayard Taylor Pass, Field Bay, Chapcll Inlet, and Fro- 
bisher Bay, I have Darned after Edward and George W. Blunt, of New York City. 



POLAR-BEAR HUNT. 



359 



citing. We were gaining on him. Ninoo saw this, and therefore 
tried to baffle us. He suddenly changed his course, and went 
out directly for the middle of the bay. In an instant we did the 
same, the old crazy boat bounding forward as swiftly as our oars- 
men could propel it in the heavy sea that then prevailed. But 
we could not gain upon him. He seemed to know that his life 
was in jeopardy, and on he went without any more stopping when 
he heard a noise. The " voice of the charmer" no longer had 
charms nor aught else for him. He had to make all speed away : 
and this he did at about four miles per hour, striking out more 
and more into the open bay. Once he so changed his course 
that by some dexterous movement of ours we succeeded in cut- 
ting across his wake, and this gave us an opportunity to fire. 
We did so, but only the ball of Koojesse's gun took effect. Ni- 
noo was struck in the head, but the poor brute at first merely 
shook himself and turned his course from down the bay in a con- 
trary direction. The shot, however, had told. In a moment or 
two we could see that Ninoo was getting enraged. Every now and 
then he would take a look at us and shake his head. This made 
the Innuits very cautious about lessening the distance between 
him and the boat. Again we fired. One or more shots took ef- 




WOUNUED NINOO TOWb Ilia OWN UAUCA88 FOtt UB. 



360 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

feet. Ninoo's white coat was crimsoned with blood about his 
head, and he was getting desperate. His movements were errat- 
ic, but we finally drove him again in the direction of Oopungne- 
wing, our policy being to make him tow his own carcass as near 
the land as would be safe to prevent his escape, and then to end 
his life. This was accomplished when within about one eighth 
of a mile from the island. The last shot was fired, and Ninoo in- 
stantly dropped his head without making another motion. 

We now pulled to him. He was quite dead, and. we at once 
took him in tow by fastening a walrus thong around his lower 
jaw, its huge tusks effectually serving to keep the noose from 
slipping off. Thus we towed our prize along, until, reaching the 
land, we hauled him on shore, and made our third encampment 
upon the southwest side of Oopungnewing Island.* 

During this chase I had a narrow escape from losing my life. 
Koojesse was seated on the locker at the boat's stern, with gun 
cocked and leveled at Ninoo, when, just as he was about to pull 
the trigger, I, intent upon the bear, suddenly rose, right in a line 
with his aim. It was but a second of time that saved me. Koo- 
jesse had just time to drop his gun, as frightened as man could 
be at the danger in which I had unknowingly placed myself. 

"While we were firing at the bear, Tunukderlien and another 
of the women, for some reason unknown to me at the time, lay' 
down in the boat completely covered with tuktoo skins. 

As soon as we landed I went to the top of the island to make 
observations and look around, but the vast swarms of musquitoes 
attacked me with such violence that I was almost desperate. Aft- 
er catching a few sights for time (longitude) and a solar bearing, 
and taking a round of angles, I beat a hasty retreat. So torment- 
ed was I that I thought I had lost as much blood during the time 
I was up there as the Ninoo we killed. 

Musquitoes are fond of white men's blood. They can smell it 
a long way off, I am sure, for they came in swarms from every di- 
rection, and made me the centre-point of their bill presentations. 
When I got back to the encampment I must have looked very 
hideous, for my hands and face were blotched all over. 

I found the Innuits had skinned Ninoo, and were feasting on 

* Oo-pung-ne-wing is near the west side of Countess of Warwick's Sonnd, and is 
one mile and a half long and one mile wide. It is like all the land of that country 
— rugged rocks and mountainous. This island is in lat. C2° 4G' 30" N., long. 65° 
17' W. 



SEARCH FOU RELICS. 361 

its delicious meat — beef-like, bright red, and juicy. I made a hasty- 
meal, and, without farther delay, prepared to gratify my now cher- 
ished and eager desire to penetrate the mysteries hanging over 
the Frobisher expeditions. I now copy from my journal : 

"Sunday, August llih, 1861. * ********* 
* * * * I soon made up a company to go with mc 
to Niountelik. It consisted of the women of the crew, Koo-ou- 
le-arng, Tu-nuk-der-lien, and Ak-chuk-er-zhun. Of course I was 
boat-steerer. . It was near six P.M., Eescue Harbor time, before 
we got under way. As we rounded the northwest point of Oo- 
pungnewing Island, a fresh breeze from the northeast met us. 
Before making half a mile it increased to almost a moderate gale, 
making progress difficult for us. By turning the boat off the 
course I desired to pursue we were able to make better headway, 
being under the lee of the island Niountelik. Before getting 
across the channel between Oopungnewing and Niountelik, I be- 
gan to think, as my crew was so small, I should be obliged to turn 
back. Indeed, the wind began to blow so furiously that I had 
thoughts that we might be blown out into the Bay of Frobisher, 
.which often has all the characteristics of an open sea ; but, being 
shielded by the island, we coasted along the base of the bluffs on 
the southern side of Niountelik till we arrived at a small bight 
well protected from all wind. Into this I directed the boat, which 
greatly relieved all of us from the dangers through which we had 
just passed. This bight is partly surrounded with a high, steep 
sand-bank, most of it, however, by bluff rocks. I did not consider 
it safe to leave the boat without a party to care for it, as there was 
a heavy sea from the south, therefore I requested Tunukderlien 
and Akchukerzhun to remain by or in it till I and Koo-ou-le-arng 
(whom I wished to accompany me as guide, as she had often vis- 
ited the island in her young days) could make a search over the 
place and return. Climbing the steep bank, though a feat not 
easily accomplished, was soon performed. "When up, we directed 
our steps along a narrow, smooth, grassy, slightly inclined plain, 
hemmed in by rough old rocks. Thence we turned to the left, 
mounting the rocks leading to the highest part of the island. "We 
kept our eyes fixed on the ground over which we made our foot- 
steps, anxiously searching for fragments of brick, which I thought 
must somewhere be found on Niountelik. I had understood Koo- 
ou-lc-amg to say that she had seen brick on this island, there- 
fore every few minutes I said to her, 'Xou-ti-i, ' (where is 



362 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

brick ?) To make her understand ' brick,' I took up a small stone 
spotted over with a peculiar red moss, calling ker attention to 
the red ; and tken, taking off ker kead ornament — ■'lcar-oong''* (a 
rounded, polisked piece of brass in tke form of a semicircle, fitted 
to and worn on tke kead by tke Innuit women as an adornment), 
I made motions as if polisking it, for I knew, from information I 
bad gained from time to time, that Innuits kad procured pieces 
of brick somewkere on or in tke neighborhood of tke island on 
wkick we were, and used tkem specially for brigktening tbeir or- 
naments, to wit, hair-rings (toong-le-le-une), finger-rings (nuk-gwer- 
ining), and kar-oongs. 

"Koo-ou-le-arng knew by my description wkat I desired to 
find, but did not seem to recollect wkere ske kad seen brick; 
though, from her expressions and conduct, I was satisfied she had 
seen mik-e-oo-lcoo-ho (small) pieces somewhere in the vicinity. 
Gaining the top of the island, we made search there for relics, but 
found none. I looked specially for some signs of a stone monu- 
ment, which I conceived Frobisher might in his day (if he visited 
this island) have erected, this being the highest point of the whole 
island. But none whatever could I find. Tkence we directed 
our way down on tke west side to a small grassy slope, not 
far from tke termination of tke island. Here we made careful 
searck, but witkout finding any tking that I so ardently wished. 
Thence we commenced to make a circuit of tke island, moving 
along as near tke coast as tke bluff rocks would permit, keeping 
tke main island at our right — that is, continuing northwest, then 
around to the north, thence northeast and east. At the north- 
west end of the island we found abundance of evidence that In- 
nuits had made Niountelik a stopping-place. There we saw the 
usual circles of stones, always to be seen where Innuits have had 
their tupics (summer tents). We saw seal, walrus, tuktoo (rein- 
deer), meituk (duck), and various other bones in abundance, some 
moss-aged, and some nearly fresh, of not more than two or three 
years' exposure. Here we found also pieces of wood, some with 
the ends charred, small pieces of tuktoo skins, and one relic of 
civilization — a piece of an old calico dress! This did not excite 
me as a matter extraordinary, as I knew that the whalers now 
visit every year tke inlet at the north, called 'Northumberland 
Inlet' (tke ' Cumberland Straits' of Davis), and distribute freely 
among the Innuits various articles of civilization, especially cast- 
* Fur the way this ornament is worn, see lieail of Nik-u-jar, page 15 1. 



RELICS OF THREE CENTURIES. 



363 



off calico dresses that they have brought from the States or from 
England, which are highly prized by the Innuit -women. It is 
rare to find, at the present day, a native family that does not pos- 
sess something of the kind. 

'•"We continued ou around the island, finding, every few fath- 
oms in our progress, numerous Innuit relics. At length we ar- 
rived at a plain that extended back a considerable distance from 
the coast. Here we recognized, at our right, about sixty rods dis- 
tant, the point to which we first directed our steps on reaching 
the high bank after leaving the boat. 

" I was several fathoms in advance of Koo-ou-le-arng, hasten- 
ing on, being desirous to make as extended a search as the brief 
remaining daylight would allow, when, lifting my eyes from the 
ground near me, I discovered, a considerable distance ahead, an 
object of an unusual appearance. But a second look satisfied me 




TVS D1SCOVIBY OP rKOBISDEB RELICS NEARLY T1IRKK IP - OLD, 8UXDAT, 

ACIiUST llTU, 1841. 



364 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

that what I saw were simply stones scattered about and covered 
with black moss. I continued my course, keeping as near the 
coast as possible. I was now nearing the spot where I had first 
descried the black object. It again met my view; and my orig- 
inal thought on first seeing it resumed at once the ascendency in 
my mind. I hastened to the spot. 'Great God! Thou hast re- 
warded me in my search !' was the sentiment that came over- 
whelmingly into my thankful soul. On casting my eyes all 
around, seeing and feeling the character (' moss-aged,' for some 
of the pieces I saw had pellicles of black moss on them) of the 
relics before and under me, I felt as — I can not tell what my feel- 
ings were. What I saw before me was sea-coal of Frobisher's ex- 
pedition of 1578, left here near three centuries ago ! 

" Koo-ou-le-arng, seeing that I had discovered something that 
made me joyous (even unto dancing), came running with all her 
might. Though she and other Innuits have known all about 
this coal being here (as I find by what she and Koojesse inform 
me to-night), yet not a word* had ever been communicated to me 
about it. I had, by perseverance, gained information during the 
year of brick and heavy stones (the latter, of course, I thought to 
mean iron), but nothing of coals.* As soon as Koo-ou-le-arng 
came up, I held out my hand to her, which was full of coal, ask- 
ing ' Kis-suT (What is this?) She answered, ' Innuit Jcoolc-um.'' 
By this I took it that the Innuits have sometimes used it in cook- 
ing. Said I, 'I?i7iuit ikkumer e-a-u V (Did the Innuits ever use this 
for a fire to cook with?) ' Armelarng 1 (Yes) was the instant re- 
sponse. I then asked, ' Noutima T meaning, Where did these 
coals come from ? Koo-ou-le-arng's response was, ' Kodlunarn oo- 
miarlcchua h'ete amasuadlo echar' (A great many years ago, white 
men with big ship came here). This answer made me still more 
joyous. From what I find on my return to Oopungnewing, Koo- 
ou-le-arng has communicated to her Innuit friends some of my 
conduct while on that coal-pile. She said that I acted just like 
an angeko, and that I had done one thing an Innuit could not do 
— that I had danced, and laughed, and made a complete somerset 
on the'eoal ! 

"And why did I feel so happy? Because of the discovery I 
have made to-day of what is a confirmation of the testimony — 

* When I wrote the original, of which the above is a verbatim copy, I had forgot- 
ten the mention of coal in the communication made to me by old Ookijoxy Ninoo, 
recorded on the 11th of the previous May. See page 280. 



AGE OF THE RELICS. 365 

Oral history — I had acquired by great perseverance from the In- 
nuits, that a great many years ago — many generations ago — Jcod- 
lunam oomiarkchw (white men with big ship) came into this bay 
(Tin-nu-jok-ping-oo-se-ong) ; because of the chain that I felt was 
now complete, that determined this to be the bay that Frobisher 
discovered in 1576, and revisited consecutively in the years 1577 
and 1578, and that Niountelik, the island of my visitation to-day, 
was the identical one* on which Frobisher landed with the object 
of establishing winter quarters for the colony of a hundred men 
that he brought here in his last voyage, to wit, in 1578 1 

"The account which Frobisher gave of his discovery was so 
indefinite that the civilized world has remained in doubt for near- 
ly three hundred years of its locality. Even to this day geogra- 
phers know not its location. Some one has made a guess, and 
approximated to the fact — simply approximated. In a few days 
I trust I shall return, either confirming it to be a ' strait,' as it is 
called, or with the full conviction that this water is a bay, which 
I believe it to be, from what the Innuits have told me. 

" I now resume the incidents of this day. A few minutes after 
Koo-ou-le-arng's arrival at the coal-heap, I proceeded to investi- 
gate more searchingly into the probable time it had been there, 
and all other matters pertaining to it. 

" I first dug down in the centre to ascertain its depth ; found it 
to be one foot in the thickest part, and thinning off to an edge at 
a distance of five to ten feet from the centre. On walking around, 
I found that the winds, mostly those from the northeast, north, and 
northwest, had scattered the coal (chiefly small pieces) over a great 
extent of ground. In fact, wind from the opposite points would 
carry such coal as it could lick up into the water of ' Countess of 
"Warwick's Sound,' as Frobisher denominated the water at the 
northwest, north, northeast, east, and southeast of Niountelik, for 
the coal deposit is close by the bank bordering the sound. 

" To satisfy myself fully that this coal must have been where it 
lies for a great many years, I dug around and beneath the clods 
of thickly-matted grass — around and beneath stunted willows and 
'crowberry' shrubs — around and beneath mosses. Wherever I 
made these excavations I found coal. Many places overgrown 
with grass I examined, digging down a depth of several inches, 
and overturning sods exhibiting coal at the base, then a layer of 

* This conclusion was too hasty, as I discovered on my return from the hend of 
Frobisher Bay, when I visited Kodlunarn Island. 



366 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

sand and coal, then another layer of two or three inches of sand, 
overtopped by interlocked roots, whence extended thrifty grass. 
The roots of the stunted willows, half an inch in diameter at the 
base of the trunk, pierced down into sand, and thence into coal ! 
On examination of many pieces of coal, bedded — some in grass, 
some in sand, and some in moss — the upper side, exposed to the 
air, I found to be covered with pellicles of black moss, such as 
one finds upon the rocks of ages. 

" I am convinced, from what I have seen to-day, that this coal 
has lain there for centuries. If it was placed there by Frobisher 
(and I have no doubt that it was), then the time of its deposit was 
but eighty-five years after the discovery of America by Columbus. 

" We continued our search for other relics. I desired very much 
to find even the smallest fragment of brick ; but the shades of 
night prevented a thorough search; therefore, filling my pock- 
ets with the sable relics, which drew a hearty laugh from Koo-ou- 
le-arng, I reluctantly turned from this deeply interesting place, 
and led the way across the island to the boat. We found every 
thing all right, and ready for a quick sail to our third encamp- 
ment, Oopungnewing. Getting out of our boat harbor, the wind 
filled our sails (it was still blowing hard), and away we bounded. 
Now and then a gust came that almost threw our craft on her 
beam-ends. While Koo-ou-le-arng steered, I held on to the sheets, 
ready to ' douse,' or let go, on the instant of any sudden violent 
blast. Several times during our passage free play was given to 
the sail ; but in good time, and safely, and with a thankful heart, 
on my part at least, for the discovery I this evening have made, 
we arrived back. 

"Koojesse, Kooperneung, and Koodloo had an excellent hot 
supper ready for us on our arrival. There, upon the clean, tide- 
washed rocks of Oopungnewing, the cerulean dome, pierced with 
star-points, for our canopy, we made a feast on sweet, juicy fresh 
'beef — Ninoo. Incomparable is the relish with which I have 
partaken to-night of the polar-bear meat, with its two-inch coating 
of fat, white as the driven snow. 

" The fresh meat of Ninoo, with which we have been blessed 
to-day, exceeds 800 pounds. Every one of my company partici- 
pates in my joy in making the discovery I have to-day. 

"A heavy sea has been rolling in all day from the south. We 
have had a hard tug to-night drawing up the boat above the 
reach of the tide. 



POLAR-BEAR LIVER POISONOUS. 367 

" Now we have a Ninoo, of course the Innuits will inflate the 
bladder, and attach it, with several peculiar charms, to a staff, 
which must be kept in a prominent position — in the boat while 
we are voyaging, and on the tupic while encamped. In accord- 
ance with Innuit custom, it must be thus exposed for three days 
and three nights. 

" "We leave a considerable portion of the Ninoo here on depos- 
it against our return. The bear's length was eight feet ; it was 
not of the largest size ; its condition was fine, very fat, and its 
meat as tender and palatable as any beefsteak I ever ate. The 
liver of the polar bear is never eaten by the Innuits. Of course 
they know the general effect of eating this part to be as if one were 
poisoned. They say it makes them feel very sick, especially in 
the head, the hair dropping off, and the skin peeling from their 
faces and bodies. They do not allow the dogs to eat it, because 
it makes them also sick, and causes all their hair to come off. 
They either bury the liver or cast it into the sea. Even after 
this precaution, dogs sometimes succeed in getting hold of it, and 
it really poisons them." 



368 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Chewing old Boots. — Formation of Icebergs. — Innuits good Anatomists. — Proceed 
on the Voyage. — Koojesse draughting the Coast.— Sarah G.'s Cape. — Iron Isl- 
and. — Arrive at Jones's Cape. — A Settlement of Innuits. — Native Monuments. — 
Dental Mill for trying out Oil.- — Blowing a Gale. — Danger to the Boat. — Arrive 
at Ming-u-toon. — Next Day's Trip. — Great Rise and Fall of Tides. — Boat nearly 
aground. — Encamp on an Island. — Bones of the Whale and other Animals. — A 
Grave. — Renew the Voyage. — A Mill-race of Waters. — An exciting Time. — La- 
borious and difficult Work. — Beautiful Weather. — Arrive at Waddell Bay and 
make seventh Encampment. — Depart again.. — Meeting with old Artarkparu. — A 
persevering and industrious Cripple. — Proceed toward his Village. — Annawa and 
other Natives there, — Women busily engaged sewing Skins. — Nursing a big Boy. 
— A good Feast.. — More information about Frobisher's Expedition. — Continue the 
Voyage. — Numerous Islands. — Eighth Encampment. — Ascend a Mountain. — Re- 
markable Features about it. — Large Caverns. — Huge Rocks ready to Fall. — The 
Aurora. — Curious Phenomena. 

The following day, Monday, August 12th, 1861, Suzhi and my- 
self remaining at Oopungnewing, the rest of my company set out 
in the boat for the main land on a tuktoo hunt. My time was oc- 
cupied in taking observations, writing, and examining the island, 
while Suzhi was busily engaged in dressing sealskins for jackets, 
and " milling" old native boots — that is, making the soles soft and 
pliant by cheiuing them. 

During the day I heard some extraordinary noises, like the 
rumblings of an earthquake. I had noticed the same on our way 
from Cape Cracroft, but now the sound was so loud that I could 
not help asking Suzhi if she knew what it was. She replied that 
it came from the Kingaite side of the waters ; and, from what I 
afterward learned, it must have been caused by large masses of 
ice — icebergs — from Grinnell Glacier falling into the sea. The 
distance traversed by the thundering sound thus occasioned was 
about forty miles. At other times, while in this bay, I have felt 
the earth tremble from the same cause. 

In the evening Suzhi and I took a walk round to the north 
side of the island. We had not gone far when she asked me, in 
her native tongue, " Do you see walrus?" pointing to a long white 
line running up the mountain's side. I looked, and at first sup- 



A SINGULAR CUSTOM. 



sua 




■ 






SUZin's BOOT "MILLING." 



posed it to be a vein of quartz running up among the dark moss- 
covered rocks ; but, on closer inspection, I found it to consist of 
over a hundred walrus jawbones, placed in line about two feet 
apart. Some parts of each were white as the snows of Kingaite, 
but a considerable portion was covered with thick black moss. 
What this singular arrangement meant I had yet to learn. 

We next came to a spot situated by the margin of a grass-plot. 
completely covered with bleached bones of seals, walrus, whales, 
and tuktoo. Ask an Innuit to what animal this and that bone 
belonged, as you pick them up, and he or she will tell you at 
once, the people being in reality good natural anatomists. 

We passed on half a mile, and reached a pojnt of high land, 
which looked out toward Niountelik, but could see none of our 
party returning. It was then ten o'clock; the night was fine, 
and a few stars were visible, but it was not yet late enough in the 
season to bring out the host there is above. Koojesse and his 
party returned about midnight, but wholly unsuccessful, though 

" A A 



370 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

they had seen eight tuktoo. This, however, was not of serious 
importance, as we then had an abundance of provision. 

"We resumed our voyage on the morning of the 13th. Twice 
before leaving the island I again heard the loud thunderings al- 
ready alluded to, and felt the vibrations of the very earth itself. 
"What could this be ? Was there a volcano on the Kingaite side? 
or were its mountains of ice falling from their precipitous heights ? 

It took a long time to strike tupics, and get every thing into the 
boat and in order. Last of all, Suzhi brought aboard the Ninoo's 
bladder and the charms, and placed them at the bow of the boat, 
mounted on a stick. Without them I strongly doubt whether the 
Innuits would have considered it safe to go on. Our course at 
first led toward Sarah G.'s Cape* (Twer-puk-ju-a), the way by 
which I went when making a hurried visit four months previous. 
Strangely enough, as it now seems to me, and no doubt to my 
readers also, I felt as safe and contented as though I were with 
civilized men instead of being alone among the wild, independent 
natives of that frozen land. I even did not hesitate to depend 
upon them occasionally for some of the work I wanted done in 
the way of delineating the coasts as we passed along. Koojesse 
— the really gifted Esquimaux — now and then acted as my as- 
sistant draughtsman, his sketches, however, being afterward care- 
fully examined by me. While I sat in the boat's stern steering 
— a position which allowed me to have good views of the land — 
he sat before me actually laying down most correctly upon j:>aper 
the coast-line along which we sailed, and with which he, as well 
as Suzhi and Tunukderlien, was perfectly familiar. There was 
not a channel, cape, island, or bay which he did not know per- 
fectly, having visited them again and again. 

One unacquainted with a new country would often make great 
mistakes by charting nearly every thing as main land where por- 
tions of it might be islands, failing also to give proper depths of 
inlet coast, unless he had time to visit every locality. On my pres- 
ent trip up the bay I had not that time, and therefore I reserved 
— to be made, if possible, on my return — a closer examination of 
the places now draughted down under my eyes. During all this 
voyage, however, I kept up a constant record of distances run and 
courses steered, and made as frequent landings for taking obscr- 

* This cape, at the west entrance to the Countess of Warwick's Sound (of Fro- 
bisher), I have named after Mrs. Henry Grinncll. Sarah G.'s Cape is two miles 
northwest of Oopungnewing, and is in lat. 62° 47' 30" N., long. 65° 20' W. 



MEET OLD ACQUAINTANCES. 371 

vations for latitude, longitude, variation of the compass, etc., as 
the circumstances would admit. 

Between Oo-mer-nung Island and Iron Island — the former in 
WisweU Inlet* and the latter near Peter Force Soundf — a heavy 
sea prevailed, rolling in from the northwest, and it was astonish- 
ing to see my heavily-laden boat ride so well over the dashing, 
heaving, irregular waters that came upon us. 

Iron Island is an interesting place, and I gave it the name be- 
cause of the resemblance of its rocks to oxydizcd iron. Iunuit 
monumental marks, made of the huge bones of the whale, were 
upon the island. Here also, on our landing, was found an ex- 
cellent piece of timber — live oak — which probably belonged to 
the wrecked Traveller, already alluded to. It was dry, and so large 
and heavy that one of the Innuits could only just carry it. "We 
took it away in the boat to use for fuel ; and, on sawing off a por- 
tion, I found it as sound as it had ever been. 

The place where we determined to make our next or fourth en- 
campment was called by the natives Toong-wine; this I named 
Jones's Cape,:}: and here we expected to find a settlement of In- 
nuits. Before we reached it a breeze sprung up and helped us 
on. A snug little harbor appeared ahead, and an Esquimaux 
was observed on an eminence near the shore eagerly watching us. 
As we drew near, all the inhabitants appeared to be out on the 
rocks to await our arrival ; and when we landed, such as were 
able cheerfully assisted in getting up our tents and in other work. 
Most of those that I now saw were familiar faces. They belong- 
ed to the party which I had visited the previous April farther up 
the bay. But Sampson was now away on a tuktoo hunt. Lie 
had recovered from his illness already mentioned ; the report of 
it brought us was doubtless exaggerated, being founded on an in- 
correct idea of the disease. The old ladies whom I then met — 
Shelluarping, mother of Kookin, and two of her friends — who 
were so pleased at my eating with them in the genuine Innuit 

* This inlet I nnmo after William Wiswell, of Cincinnati, Ohio. It is on the north 
side of Frobisher Bay, extending north twelve miles from Oo-mcr-nnng, a small high 
island on the east side of the entrance of the inlet, in lat. 62° SOJ' N., long. 05° 
2C W. 

t A beautiful sheet of water, mostly surrounded by rugged mountains, and thus 
named by me after Peter Force, of Washington, D. C. The entrance to this sound 
is in lat. 02° 55V N., long. 65° 48' W. 

i So named after John D. Jones, of Cincinnati, Ohio. Jones's Caj'C is in lat. 02° 
55' 30" N.,long.C5° 45' W. 



372 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

style, were here, and gave me a hearty "welcome. Ookgooalloo 
was sick, and I therefore visited him as soon as I could. I was 
guided to his tupic by his groans ; but when I entered and asked 
the name of the sufferer before me, I was surprised to learn that 
it was my old friend, so sadly changed. Sickness seemed unusu- 
ally prevalent ; indeed, the only three men of the place were so 
feeble that not one of them could go out hunting or sealing. 

At this spot were some remarkable monuments of stone, one 
being in the form of a cross, and about six feet high. 




m^rw 



nrmnT monument at toong-wtne — jones'8 cape 



In the evening, being in want of oil for my lamp, I went to 
Koojesse's tupic to obtain some. There I beheld a scene for a 
picture : 

Koodloo and Charley made search, found seal-blubber, brought 
it in, and passed it to Suzhi, who was in tuktoo, as I may say — 
that is, abed. Of course, like all Innuits when in bed, she was en- 
tirely nude; but she immediately rose on her elbows, and pro- 
ceeded to bite off pieces of blubber, chewing them, sucking the 
oil out, then spirting it into a little cone-like dish, made by invert- 
ing the bottom of my broken tin lamp. In this way she obtained 
with her dental " mill," in less than two minutes, oil enough to 



A NOVEL SCENE. 373 

fill two large-sized lamps. Koodloo and Kooperneung were stand- 
ing up in the tupic at the time, I was seated with Akchuker- 
zhun at my right, on tuktoo, by Suzhi's head, waiting for my 
lamp, while Koojcsse and his partner, Tunukderlien, were at my 
left, wrapped in Innuit slumbers. It was a novel scene, that of 
Koo-ou-le-arng's operations in grinding blubber for oil; in par- 
ticular, the incidental exhibition of what Burns describes as 

" Twa drifted heaps, sae fair to see," 

exaggerated in size, as is the case with most Innuit women, struck 
me forcibly. The whole scene, though so strange to me, was taken 
by the Innuits as an every-day affair, and quite a matter of course. 

The Innuits certainly show peculiar skill in thus expressing 
oil without allowing a particle of moisture to come in contact with 
it. It may be doubted that such a thing is possible, but so it is. 
My replenished lamp burned brightly, allowing me to write up 
my diary with great facility. 

Jones's Cape was really one of the finest places I had seen in 
the North, not excepting even Greenland. Force's Sound is near- 
ly surrounded by magnificent mountains, and is sheltered from 
winds and heavy seas by a number of islands. There is an excel- 
lent entrance for ships, and the harbors, I thought, might rival 
any in the civilized world. If a colony should ever be planted in 
those regions for the purpose of Christianizing the people, Jones's 
Cape presents many of the advantages desired. 

On the following morning, August 14th, I took Koojesse and 
ascended a mountain in the rear of our encampment. The view 
was very extensive, and I could plainly see more than fifty miles 
of Kingaite coast, the nearest point being distant some thirty miles. 
On my way I observed a considerable quantity of the stone I had 
noticed upon Iron Island, and I also saw many small pieces of 
limestone on the very summit, about a thousand feet above the 
level of the sea. 

I remained at Cape Jones until noon for the purpose of obtain- 
ing a meridian observation. YVlrilc making this I was amused to 
see the astonishment depicted in the countenances of the Innuits 
of the settlement around me — as far, at least, as they ever do ex- 
hibit unusual interest in any subject. 

At 12 30 P.M. we again set out on our expedition, directing 
our course westerly across the cast arm of the bay. The natives 
assembled in large numbers to bid us ter-bou-e-tie, which may be 



374 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

rendered thus : " Good-by, our friends. May you fare well." "We 
rowed for about half an hour, when, finding the sea too heavy for 
our frail boat, we hoisted sail and steered direct to the middle of 
the island — Nou-yarn. At about 2 80 P.M. we stopped at a point 
of the island, and Koodloo went ashore, shortly returning with a 
shoulder-load of live oak for fuel, which was clearly part of the 
Traveller wreck. 

From Jones's Cape we had a hard and tedious passage across 
the mouth of the sound, consuming two and a half hours in mak- 
ing good three miles. The wind freshened to a strong breeze, and 
for an hour we were in the " suds." Every few minutes a " white- 
cap" was sent with all force into our boat, thoroughly wetting us 
and every thing. Tunukderlien was kept constantly baling, and 
Kooperneung tucked his nuliana under the folds of his oil jacket 
to keep her from the overleaping waves. The sheet was not 
made fast, but was kept in the hands of some of the lady crew, 
ready at any moment for the word — Let go ! 

The passage was by no means free from danger; but God rules 
the waves, and He brought us safely over. A light shower of 
rain soon came, accompanied by the glorious bow of good prom- 
ise, which presented a vivid contrast with the dark moss covering 
of the rocky mountains forming the background of the picture. 
At about 3 P.M. we reached Brewster's Point,* the southeastern 
extreme of Barrow's Peninsula,-)- where we made our fifth en- 
campment. 

That night, looking with my spj^glass over to the snow mount- 
ains of Kingaite, I saw what I at first thought to be the fires of a 
volcano. After consultation with Koojesse and Kooperneung, I 
concluded it to be the light of the declining moon reflected from 
the snow. The effect was strikingly peculiar, the light being red, 
but in form like a comet's tail. 

The next day, August 15th, a head wind condemned the boat's 
crew to a hard pull ; and, as they made slow progress, I took my 
compass and tripod, and walked along the southern coast of Bar- 
row's Peninsula, directing Koojesse to come for me when I should 
signal him. Charley likewise had gone ahead with his gun to 

* I named this point after A. Brewster, of Norwich, Connecticut. It is on the 
west siJe at the entrance to Peter Force Sound, nearly on a parallel with the place 
of fourth encampment, and is in lat. G2° 55' N., long. 65° 51' W. 

+ Named by me after John Barrow, of London, England. It is bounded by New- 
ton's Fiord, Peter Force Sound, Frobisher Bay, and Hamlen's Bay. ( ]1de Chart.) 



TIN-NE-TOOK-KE-YARN. 375 

hunt tuktoo. Tlie boat kept close in shore until we came to 
Hamlcn's Bay,* which had to be crossed. Here I embarked with 
Charley, and with a fair breeze we sped across at the rate of about 
five miles an hour. On the west side of the entrance to this bay 
were some islands, between which and the main land was a chan- 
nel ; and, in order to get to the northward and westward (which, 
being the general trend of the coast thus far, I had reason to sup- 
pose to be probably its direction to the head of the bay), we must 
pass through this channel. We should have done so without de- 
lay but that the ebb of the tide had left it dry. Not being aware 
of this, I told Koojcsse to go on. With a twinkle in his eye, he 
said, "Well, you tell 'em so — we try." Accordingly we went 
on until, rounding an island that was at the mouth of the chan- 
nel which is called by the Innuits Tin-nc-took-ke-yarn (Low-tide 
Land), I saw we were on the verge of dry land. A rise and fall 
of twenty-five feet in the tide made that impassable at low water 
which six hours before was a deep channel. 

Koojesse, on seeing my surprise, looked at me with such a mer- 
ry laugh that I could not rebuke him had I been so inclined. Wc 
turned the boat round, and formed our sixth encampment upon 
Blanchard's Island. f 

In the early part of this day, while yet close to Brewster's Point, 
and while walking on the beach, I met with remains of many In- 
nuit habitations of former days, when they used to build them of 
earth and stone. Bones of the whale, and of all other animals 
that principally serve the Innuits for subsistence, lay there in 
abundance, many of them very old, their age probably number- 
ing hundreds of years. One shoulder-blade of a whale measured 
five feet along its arc, and four feet radius. Whale-ribs, also, were 
scattered here and there, one of them being eight feet in length. 
I also noticed there several graves, but nothing, not even a bone, 
within them. An old drift oil-cask was also there, sawn in two; 
one half was standing full of water, the other half was lying 
down. I gathered up the oak staves and heads for fuel. 

Next morning, Friday, August 16th, when I awoke, I found the 
tide ebbing fast, and it was therefore necessary to get under way 

* Xamcd after S. L. Hnrolen, of Cincinnati, Ohio. This hay runs up almost due 
north, and is five miles across at its mouth. The centre of its entrance is in lflt.62 
58' N., lone 66° 10' W. 

t So named after George S. Rlanchard, of Cincinnati, Ohio. Our sixth encamp- 
ment was in lat. C2° 5S' X., and long. 66° 1 7' W. 



876 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

at once. In a quarter of an hour we had every thing on board, 
and set out for the desperate work of running the " mill-race" of 
waters pouring over the rocks, whose tops were then near the sur- 
face. If we could not succeed in the attempt, we must either wait 
until next tide, or make a long detour outward around several 
islands. 

It was an exciting operation. Koojesse stood on the bread- 
cask that was at the bow of the boat, so that he might indicate 
the right passage among the rocks. Occasionally we touched 
some of them, but a motion of the boat-hook in his hand gener- 
ally led us right. There was a fine breeze helping us, and we 
also kept our oars at work. Indeed, it required all the power we 
could muster to carry us along against so fierce a tide. At one 
time, thump, thump we came upon the rocks at full speed, fairly 
arrested in our progress, and experiencing much difficulty in mov- 
ing forward again. But, favored by the breeze, we at last got 
through this channel, and soon stopped at an island to take our 
much-needed breakfast. That dispatched, we again pushed on, 
keeping along the coast. The land was low, with iron-looking 
mountains in the background. But some spots showed signs of 
verdure, and altogether, the day being fine, the scene was charm- 
ing. 

By evening we had arrived at Tongue Cape, on the east side 
of the entrance to "Waddell Bay,* and there made our seventh 
encampment. The whole of the next day was spent by the male 
Innuits in hunting tuktoo, and by the women in sewing skins and 
attending to other domestic matters. As usual, I was occupied 
with my observations. 

On Sunday, August 18th, we left our seventh encampment and 
proceeded along the coast. As we neared Opera-Glass Cape, a 
point of land on the west side of Waddell Bay, round which we 
had to pass, a kia was observed approaching ; and in a short time, 
to my great surprise, the old Innuit Artarkparu was alongside 
of us. 

This man was the father of Koojesse's wife, and therefore the 
meeting was additional^ pleasant. He was, as may be recollect- 
ed, an invalid, having lost the free use of his lower limbs by a dis- 
ease in his thighs; yet he was rarely idle, every day going out 
sealing, ducking, or hunting for walrus and tuktoo. In the win- 

* Named after William Coventry H. Waddell, of New York City. Its cast side 
(Tongue Cape) is in lat. G3° 11' 30", and long. G6° 4S' W. 



KI-A MAKING. 



377 



ter be moved about by means of sledge and dogs, and no Innuit 
was ever more patient or more successful tban be. Artarkparu 
bad come out from a village not far off, and to tbat place we di- 
rected tbe boat. We found four tupics erected tbere, and many 
familiar faces soon greeted me. Annawa was among tbcm, and 
also Sbevikoo and Esbceloo. Tbe females were busily occupied 
in sewing skins — some of wbicb were in an offensive condition — 
for making a kia. A small space was allotted to tbem for tbis 
purpose, and it was particularly interesting to watcb tbeir pro- 
ceedings. Tbe kia covering was bung over a pole resting on tbe 
rocks, every tbing being kept in a wet state wbile tbe women 
worked, using large braided tbread of wbite-wbale sinews. As I 
stood gazing upon tbe scene before me, Annawa's big boy was 
actually standing by bis motber and nursing at tbe breast, sbe all 
tbe time continuing ber work, wbile old Artarkparu bobbled 
about in tbe foreground by tbe aid of a staff in eacb band. 




LWCIT SU11MEU VILLAGE. 



Vcnison and seal-meat were bung to dry on strings stretcbed 
along tbe ridge of eacb tupic, as sbown in tbe above engraving, 



378 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

and provisions -were clearly abundant. In the tupic of Artark- 
paru, Koojesse and Tunukderlien were at home feasting on raw 
venison, and with them I was invited to partake of the old man's 
hospitality. Before returning to the boat I also received, as a 
present, a pocket full of dried tuktoo meat, given me by Annawa. 

After a short stay and friendly adieu, we again departed on our 
way ; but just then I thought it possible that old Artarkparu 
might be able to give me some information. Accordingly I turn- 
ed back, and, through the aid of Koojesse as interpreter, entered 
into a conversation with him. We seated ourselves by his side, 
and the first question I put to him was, Had he ever seen coal, 
brick, or iron on any of the land near Oopungnewing ? He im- 
mediately answered in the affirmative. He had seen coal and brick 
a great many times on an island which he called Niountelik. 

He first saw them when he was a boy. 

He had also seen heavy pieces of iron on the point of Oopung- 
newing, next to Niountelik. 

" No iron there now, somebody having carried it off." 

" Bricks and coals were at Niountelik." 

I then asked him, " How many years ago was it when the In- 
nuits first saw these things?" 

His reply was, " Am-a-su-ad-lo" (a great, great many). His fa- 
ther, when a boy, had seen them there all the same. Had heard 
his father often talk about them. 

" Some of the pieces of iron were very heavy, so that it was as 
much as the strongest Innuit could do to lift them." 

"Had often made trials of strength, in competition with other 
Innuits, in lifting. It was quite a practice with the young men 
to see who was the strongest in lifting the ' heavy -stone' " (Innuits 
so call the iron). 

" On the point of another island near by, an oo-mi-ark-chu-a 
(ship) was once built by kodlunas (white men) a great many, 
many years ago — so the Innuits of a great many years ago had 
said." 

I took from the boat a little bag which contained some of the 
coal that I had gathered up with my own hands at Niountelik, 
and asked him if it was like that he had seen. 

He said, "All the same." 

I then asked him "where it came from." 

His reply was, " He supposed from England, for he had seen the 
same kind on English whaling vessels in Northumberland Inlet." 




K 



MORE NEWS OF THE FROBISIIER RELICS. 381 

This information I obtained from the old man ; and I could 
not help noticing how closely it corresponded with that given to 
me by Ookijoxy Ninoo some months before. 

The whole interview was particularly interesting. I felt as if 
suddenly taken back into ages that were past ; and my heart truly 
rejoiced as I sat upon the rock and listened to what the old man 
said of these undoubted Frobisker relics. 

After this interview with Artarkparu, we started at 2 -±5 P.M. 
along the coast, closely examining its features, and noting down 
every thing of importance which we saw. The land was bold and 
high, with much of the iron-rust-look about it. Scarcely any veg- 
etation was perceptible. Numerous islands bordered the coast ; 
and, as I looked across the outer waters, it seemed as if a complete 
chain stretched across the bay to Kingaite. 

On reaching the spot which we selected for our eighth encamp- 
ment — Cape Stevens* — I left my crew to unload the boat and 
erect topics, while I ascended a mountain that flanked us. On 
the top I found numerous shells and fossils, some of which I 
brought away. On descending I took the opposite or northeast 
side, next a bight that made up into the land. This side of the 
mountain was almost perpendicular. The winter forces of the 
Xorth had thrown down to the base a mass of stone, which en- 
abled me to pass upon a kind of causeway to the foot of another 
mount toward the tupics. There I could not help pausing and 
glancing around in wondering awe. I can not put on paper the 
feelings which struggled within me as I made my way over that 
debris, and looked above and around me. God built the mount- 
ains, and Lie tumbleth them down again at LTis will ! Overhead 
was hanging the whole side of a mountain, ready, as it seemed, at 
any moment, and by the snap of one's finger, to fall ! I felt as if 
obliged to take light and gentle steps. I breathed softly ; and, as 
I looked and looked again, I praised God for all His mighty 
works. 

I ought to say that, on a better view of this mountain, I per- 
ceived on its perpendicular side large caverns, with huge project- 
ing rocks hanging directly over tbem. 

I returned to the tupics ; and that night, as I lay on my back 

by our camp-fire, viewing the glorious heavens, I beheld the au- 

in all its wondrous beauty. In the vicinity of the moon. 

* Xamcil by me nftcr John A. Stevens, Jr., of Xcw York City. Cape Stevens is in 
lat. C:; 21' N\, ami long. 67° 10' W. 



3S2 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



where the aurora was dancing and racing to and fro, it was 
strangely grand. But the most remarkable phenomenon of- the 
kind I ever witnessed was the peculiar movement of the clouds 
overhead. For some length of time they moved by "hitches," 
passing with the wind slowly, and then stopping for a few seconds. 
I called the attention of the Inuuits to it, and they noticed this as 
something they had never seen before. It seemed as if the clouds 
were battling with an unseen enemy, but that the former had the 
greater power, and forced their way by steps along the vault above. 
These clouds were white, and of the kind classified as cumulus. I 
thought it a very strange matter, and, according to my idea, the 
aurora had something to do with it. 




td-sck-dee-i.ies (wife of Koo-jea-se) 



CONTINUE TUE VOYAGE. 3S3 



CHAPTER XXm. 

Leave eighth Encampment. — Seals. — Meeting Innnits. — Make ninth Encampment 
on Rae's Point. — A Seal-feast. — Reindeer Moss abundant. — More traditional 
History. — Start on Voyage again. — A two-mile Walk over Rocks. — Jack the 
Angeko. — Ankooting Tweroong. — The two Boats and two Kias. — Picturesque 
appearance of the Women Rowers. — Jhe Flag of the Free. — Tenth Encampment. 
— Icebergs on the Rocks. — Renew the Voyage. — Visit the Island Frobisher's Far- 
thest. — The great Gateway. — President's Seat. — Beautiful and warm Day. — 
Fine Scenery. — Make eleventh Encampment. — Morning Walk. — Abundance of 
Game. — Seals and Reindeer in abundance. — The Roar of a Cataract. — Waters 
alive with Salmon. — Discover the Termination of Frobisher Bay. — Enter an Es- 
tuarv. — Make Landing. — A Leming. — Tweroong sketches Kingaite Coast. — Rein- 
deer Skins for Clothing. — Luxuriant Fields. — Reindeer Tallow good. — A pedes- 
trian Excursion. — Innuit Monument. — Ancient Dwellings. — Sylvia Grinnell River. 
— A Pack of Wolves. — Glories of the calm clear Night. — Aurora again. — A Land 
abounding with Reindeer. — Blueberries. — Method of taking Salmon. — Bow and 
Arrows. 

On the following morning, Monday, August 19th, 1861, we 
-were in readiness to leave our eighth encampment, and pursue 
our journey. Starting at 10 15, we crossed the mouth of a deep 
bay, across which, and about ten miles up from our course, lies 
a long island, called by the natives Ki-ki-tuk-ju-a. Koojesse in- 
formed me that he had been to that " long island," and that the 
bay extended a considerable distance beyond. The shores of this 
bay I found to trend about N.NAV. Koojesse also said that it 
was one day's journey to the head of it from the island. From 
this, and other data which he furnished, I concluded, and so re- 
corded it in my journal at the time, that the bay is from twenty 
to twenty-five miles in extent.* 

Unfortunately for my desire to get on, a number of seals were 
seen, and my crew were soon engaged in pursuit. This delayed 
us some time; and when another similar stoppage took place, I felt 
that it was hopeless to think of going far that da}-, and according- 
ly landed, while the Innuits followed what they supposed to be 

* I effected a complete exploration of this bay and the island named on n sledge- 
.iourncy which I made in the spring of 1862. This, however, will come in its proper 
place in the sequel of my narrative. 



384 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

seals, but which, as will shortly be seen, were quite another sort 
of game. 

I walked among gigantic old rocks, well marked b} r the hand 
of Time, and then wandered away up the mountains. There I 
came across an Innuit grave. It was simply a number of stones 
piled up in such a way as to leave just room enough for the dead 
body without a stone touching it. All the stones were covered 
with the moss of generations. During my walk a storm of wind 
and rain came on, and compelled mc to take shelter under the lee 
of a friendly ridge of rocks. There I could watch Koojesse and 
his company in the boat advancing toward what was thought 
an ookgook and many smaller seals. All at once what had 
seemed to be the ookgook commenced moving, and so likewise 
did the smaller seals. A slight turn of the supposed game sud- 
denly gave to all a different appearance. I then perceived a boat, 
with black gunwales, filled with Innuit men, women, and chil- 
dren, and also kias on each side of the boat. Seeing this, Koo- 
jesse pulled in for me, and we started together for the strangers. 
A short time, however, proved them to be friends. The large 
boat contained "Miner," his wife Tweroong,To-loo-ka-ah, his wife 
Koo-muk (louse), the woman Puto, and several others whom I 
knew. They were spending the summer up there deer-hunting, 
and had been very successful. Soon after joining them we all 
disembarked in a snug little harbor, and erected our tents in com- 
pany on Eae's Point,* which is close by an island called by the 
natives No-oohtoo-ad-loo. 

The rain was pouring down when we landed, and the bustle 
that followed reminded me of similar activity on the steam-boat 
piers at home. As fast as things were taken out of the boats, 
such as had to be kept dry were placed under the shelving of 
rocks until the tupics were up. Then, our encampment formed, 
all parties had leisure to greet each other, which we did most 
warmly. 

Tweroong was very ill, and appeared to me not far from her 
death. Her uniform kindness to me wherever I had met her 
made her condition a source of sadness to me. I could only ex- 
press my sympatlry, and furnish her with a few civilized com- 
forts brought with me. She was the mother of Kooperneung, 
one of my crew, by her first husband, then deceased. 

* Named by the author after Dr. John Rao, the well-known English arctic explorer, 
Rae's Point, place of our ninth encampment, is in lat. GS° 20' N., long. G" 3 88' W. 



IXNUIT TRADITIONS. 385 

A great feast was made that evening upon the rocks. A cap- 
tured ookgook was dissected by four carvers, who proved them- 
selves, as all Innuits are, skillful anatomists. Indeed, as I have 
before said, there is not a bone or fragment of a bone picked up 
but the Innuits can tell to what animal it belonged. In the even- 
ing I also took a walk about the neighborhood, and was aston- 
ished to see such an abundance of reindeer moss. The ground 
near our tents was literally white with it, and I noticed many 
tuktoo tracks. 

Our stay at this encampment continued over the nest day, and 
I took the opportunity of questioning Tweroong, who was said to 
know much about the traditions of her people, as to any knowl- 
edge she might possess concerning the coal, brick, and iron at 
Niountelik. Koojesse was my interpreter, and through him I 
gained the following information : 

Tweroong had frequently seen the coal there, and likewise heavy 
pieces of stone (iron) on an island close by. She had often heard 
the oldest Innuits speak of them. The coal and other things 
were there long before she was born. She had seen Innuits with 
pieces of brick that came from there. The pieces of brick were 
used for brightening the women's hair-rings and the brass orna- 
ments worn on their heads. 

She said old Innuits related that very many years ago a boat, 
or small ship, was built by a few white men on a little island near 
Niountelik. 

I showed her the coal I had brought with me from Niountelik, 
and she recognized it directly as some like that she had seen. 

Owing to the condition of my own boat, I was anxious to have 
the company of another craft in my voyage up the bay. I ac- 
cordingly effected an arrangement with the Innuit " Miner" and 
his party to keep along with me; and on the following day, Au- 
gust 21st, at 9 A.M., we all set out from the encampment to pur- 
sue our journey. 

"While Koojesse and my crew were loading the boat, I ascended 
a mountain close by, and, after as good a look around as the fog- 
gy weather would allow, I began to descend by another path. 
But I soon found that the way I had chosen was impracticable. 
The mountain-side was one vast rock, roof-like, and too steep for 
human feet. Finally, after a long, hard tug down hill, up hill, 
and along craggy rocks, I gained the beach, and hailed the boat, 
which took me on board after a walk of two miles. 

Bb 



386 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

We made what speed we could to the westward and northward, 
having to use the oars, the wind being right ahead. In an hour's 
time we came to an island, where the other boat was stopping a 
while. Here I saw " Jack," the angeko, performing the ceremony 
of ankooting over poor sick Tweroong. The woman was reclin- 
ing on some tuk'too furs in the boat's bow, while Jack was seated 
on the tide-wet rocks, making loud exclamations on her behalf. 
It is very strange what faith these people place in such incanta- 
tions. I never saw the ceremony otherwise than devoutly attend- 
ed to. I then took my usual exploring walk upon the island, see- 
ing the bones of a huge whale, portions of which were covered 
with moss, and the rest bleached to a pure white, but all as heavy 
as stone. 

When we again started, the sight of the two boats and two kias 
pulling side by side was particularly interesting. There were 
fourteen souls on board the other boat, men, women, and children, 
the women pulling at the oars ; in each of the two kias was also 
an Innuit man. The raven hair of the females hanging loosely 
about the head and face — the flashing ornaments of brass on their 
heads — their native dress — their methodical rock to and fro as 
they propelled the boat along, formed, indeed, a striking lecture. 
All were abreast, the two boats and the two kias, and pulling in 
friendly competition. " Miner" had a flag of checked red, white, 
and black at the bow of his boat, and the glorious ensign of the 
United States was streaming to the breeze at the bow of mine. 
To me the scene was one of indescribable interest. In that re- 
gion — never before visited by white man, except when Frobisher, 
three centuries- ago, set foot there — it was perfectly novel in its 
features, and I was truly thankful that I had been blessed with 
the privilege of raising the " Flag of the Free" in that strange 
land. 

Our progress during the day was not very great, owing to the 
frequent stoppages of my Innuit crew. Let me be ever so anxious 
to get on, or to do any thing in the way of making observations, 
if a seal popped up his head, or any thing appeared in the shape 
of game, away they would go in chase, utterly regardless of my 
wants or wishes. They meant no ill ; but the Innuits are like 
eagles — untamable. 

Before reaching our tenth encampment* that night, which was 

* In lat. G3° 32' N., lonjj. G7° 61' W., by a small cove one mile north of the important 
island I have named " Fkobisher's Farthkst," called by the Innuits Ki-ki-tuk-ju-a. 






FROBISIIER'S FAETllKsl 



387 



similar to the previous one, we passed numerous small bergs, left 
high and dry on the rocks near the coast by the low spring-tide, 
as seen in the accompanying engraving. 




ICEUEBG8 ON TUE BOCKS.— GBEAT FALL OF TIDE. 



On the following morning, August 22d, we again set out, mak- 
ing our way among numerous islands, and along land exhibiting 
luxuriant verdure. Miner's boat and company proceeded on up 
the bay, while Charley and I were set ashore on the north side of 
the island "Frobisher's Farthest," leaving instructions with the 
rest of the crew that we would make our way in two or three 
hours northerly and westerly to the upper end of the island, where 
we would get aboard. The place where we landed was very steep, 
and the ascent was laborious. I had belted to my side my five- 



388 AECHC KESEAKCH EXPEDITION. 

pound chronometer, and also a pocket sextant. In my band I 
carried a compass tripod and azimuth compass. Charley had his 
double-barreled gun, ready for rabbits or any other game. 

After getting to the summit the view was very extensive. To 
the N.W. the appearance was as if the bay continued on between 
two headlands, one the termination of the ridge of mountains 
on the Kingaite, or Mela Incognita side, and the other the term- 
ination of the ridge running on the north side of Frobishcr Bay. 
The coast of Kingaite was in full view, from the " Great Gate- 
way"* down to the " President's Seat,"f a distance of one hund- 
red nautical miles. A line of islands — their number legion — 
shoot down from " Frobisher's Farthest" to the Kingaite coast. 

At noon and afterward. the weather was exceedingly beautiful, 
and the water as smooth as a mirror. Kingaite side was showing 
itself in varying tints of blue, its even mountain range covered 
with snow, throwing a distinct shadow across the surface of the 
bay. The sun was warm, and yet casting a subdued light on all 
around. The rocks and mountains upon our right were bare, and 
of a red hue, while far to the southeast were the eternal snows of 
the Grinnell glacier. 

We encamped,:): as before, among the friendly Innuits who had 
accompanied us, and on the next morning (August 23d), at an 
early hour, I went by myself for a walk among the hills. Mount- 
ains near the coast on that side of the bay had disappeared, the 
land being comparatively low and covered with verdure. I was 
delighted to find this such a beautiful country ; the waters of the 
bay were teeming with animal life, and I thought that here was 
indeed the place to found a colon)'-, if any one should ever renew 
the attempt in which Frobishcr failed. 

Before I came back from my walk I perceived the camp-fires 
sending up their clouds of smoke, and I was soon after partak- 
ing of a hearty breakfast, cooked and served in Innuit fashion. 
Abundance was now the rule. Seals and blubber were so plenti- 
ful that quantities were left behind at our encampment. Even 
whole seals, with the exception of the skins, were frequently 

* The opening between the two headlands alluded to above, which are about ten 
miles to the northwest of the head of the Bay of Frobishcr, J named the "Great 
Gateway." 

t The most conspicuous mountain on the coast of Frobishcr Bay I named Presi- 
dent's Seat, after the chief executive officer of the United States government. Pres- 
ident's Seat is in lat. 62° 39' N., long. 66° 40' W. 

X Our eleventh encampment was in lat. 03° 38' N., long. GS° 10' W. 



HEAD OF FKOBISHER BAY. 391 

abandoned. Thus these children of the icy North live — one day 
starving, and the next having so much food that they care not to 
carry it away. 

We started at 10 A.M., and passed in sight of more low land, 
some of which was covered with grass. Seals and ducks were so 
numerous that it was almost an incessant hunt — more from habit, 
on the part of the natives, than from necessity. The signs of 
reindeer being in the neighborhood were such that the males of 
my boat's crew landed to seek them. Some of the Innuits of the 
other boat had done the same, and frequent reports of fire-arms 
gave evidence that the game was in view. Presently Koojesse 
returned, having killed one of the largest of the deer, and after 
some trouble we got some portions of it on board — saddle, skin, 
hoofs, horns, and skull. My boat soon after carried at her bow 
not only the American flag, but also the noble antlers of the deer. 
I felt at home, with the flag of my country as my companion and 
inspiring theme. 

Early in the day, before the shooting of the reindeer, I heard 
what seemed to be the roar of a cataract, and perceived that we 
must be approaching some large river. Presently I was astonish- 
ed by Suzhi saying to me, " Tar-ri-o nar-me" (this is not sea-wa- 
ter). She then took a tin cup, reached over the boat's side, dip- 
ped up some of the water, and gave it to me, after first drinking 
some herself, to show me that it was good. I drank, and found it 
quite fresh. It was clear that the river was of considerable size, 
or it could not throw out such a volume of fresh water to a con- 
siderable distance from its mouth asrainst a tide confine; in. 

O O 

After a while we came to an estuary where the waters were 
alive with salmon. My Innuit crew were in ecstasies, and I too 
was greatly rejoiced. 

On a point of land at the mouth of this fine river wc pitched 
our tents,* and away went the men for another hunt. They were 
out all night, and on the next morning, August 24th, returned 
with two more deer. This, with what had been shot on the pre- 
vious day, made our list of game four reindeer, besides several 
seals and sea-birds. We might have had more, but the Innuits 
were now indifferent to every thing but the larger sort. 

* Our twelfth encampment was in lat. G3° 13' 30", long. G8° 25'. It was on the 
west side of Sylvia Grinnell River, on a narrow strip of land called Tu-mi-;hoon, the 
south extreme of which is Ag-le-e-toon, which I named Tyler Davidson Point, after 
Tyler Davidson, of Cincinnati, Ohio. 



392 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

"While at this, our twelfth encampment, there was quite an ex- 
citement occasioned among the Innuits by chasing a " rat." There 
they were, when I went out of my tent, with clubs and stones, 
ready for battle with the little animal. But lo ! in a few moments 
the rat proved to "be a leming — an arctic mouse. It was hunt- 
ed out of its hiding-place and speedily killed. Shortly after an- 
other one was seen, chased, and killed in like manner. Both of 
them had very fine fur, and two of the Innuit women skinned the 
pretty little animals for me. I asked Tweroong if her people 
ever ate such creatures. With a very wry face, she replied in 
broken English, "Smalley" (little, or seldom). 

While we staid here, Tweroong employed herself in my tu- 
pic drawing, with remarkable skill, a rough outline of Frobisher 
Bay, Besolution Island, and other islands about it, and the north 
shore of Hudson's Strait. Too-loo-ka-ah also sketched the coast 
above and below Sekoselar. Every half minute he would punch 
me with a pencil I had given him, so that I might pay atten- 
tion to the Innuit names of places. As soon as he had sketched 
an island, bay, or cape, he would stop, and wait until I had cor- 
rectly written down the name. At first he was very loth to make 
the attempt at drawing a map, but the inducement I held out — 
some tobacco — succeeded, and, for the first time in his life, he put 
pencil to paper. His sketch was really good, and I have pre- 
served it, together with Tweroong's, to the present time. 

The whole of this day, August 24th, and the following day, 
were passed at the same encampment. All the Innuit men went 
out hunting, and killed an abundance of game, now valued not 
for food, of which there was plenty, but for the skins, of which 
there was very soon quite a large stock on hand. The women 
were employed in dressing these skins,* and in such other work 
as always fell to their lot. I was engaged in my observations 
and in making notes. The weather was delightful, and the scen- 
ery around fine. But as I am now writing of that period when I 
was able to determine the question as to a Frobisher " Strait" or 
Bay, I will copy my diary as written on the spot. 

"August 25^,1861,3 30 A.M. Another and another is added 
to the number of beautiful days we've had since starting on this 
expedition. Can it be that such fine weather is here generally 

* Tho skins of the reindeer killed in Anpust and September arc valued above oth- 
ers, for the reason that winter dresses can be made only of them. At the time men- 
tioned they are covered with long, thick, and firmly-set hair. 



LAND OF PLENTV. 393 

prevailing, while bad weather every where else north is the rul- 
ing characteristic ? 

"This certainly is a fact, that here, at the head of Frobisher 
Baj*, a milder climate prevails than at Field Bay and elsewhere, 
or the luxuriant vegetation that is around here could not be. 
The grass plain, the grass-clothed hills, are abundant proof of 
this. I never saw in the States, unless the exception be of the 
prairies of the "West, more luxuriant grasses on uncultivated lands 
than are here around, under me. There is no mistake in this 
statement, that pasture-land here, for stock, can not be excelled by 
any any where, unless it be cultivated, or found, as already ex- 
cepted, in the great "West.* 

" How is it with the land animals here ? They are fat — •' fat 
as butter.' The paunch of the reindeer killed by Koojesse was 
filled to its utmost capacity with grasses, mosses, and leaves of the 
various plants that abound here. The animal was very fat, his 
rum}) lined with tood-noo (reindeer tallow), which goes much bet- 
ter with me than butter. Superior indeed is it, as sweet, golden 
butter is to lard. The venison is very tender, almost falling to 
pieces as you attempt to lift a steak by its edge. So it is with all 
the tuktoo that have as yet been killed here. Rabbits arc in fine 
condition. Not only are they so now, but they must be nearly in 
as good order here in winter, for God hath given them the means 
to make their way through the garb of white, with which He 
clothes the earth here, for their subsistence. 

"Koodloo returned this morning with the skins and toodnoo 
of three reindeer, which he has killed Since his leaving the boat 
on Friday noon. In all, our party of hunters have killed eleven 
reindeer, but very little of the venison has been saved — simply 
the skins and toodnoo. * * * This afternoon the wife of Jack 
has been ankooting sick Tweroong. The sun set to-night fine. I 
never saw more beautiful days and nights than here — the sky 
with all the mellow tints that a poet could conceive. The moon 
and aurora now make the nights glorious. 

" Monday, August 26lh. This morning not a cloud to be seen. 
Puto visited me, the kodluna infant at her back. I made her 

* To a person going to the arctic regions direct from the pasture-land of the Mid- 
dle States, this passage of my diary would naturally seem too strong ; hut when one 
has boon for a year continually among ice, snow, and rugged rocks, as was the case 
with me, the sijjht of ■ grassy plain and green-clad hills could hardly fail to startle 
him into enthusiastic expression. 



394 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

some little presents — pipe, beads, file, and knife, and a small piece 
of one of the adjuncts of civilization — soap. Somehow I thought 
it possible that I had made an error of one day in keeping run of 
the days of the month, but the lunar and solar distances of yester- 
day have satisfied me that I was correct. I started on a walk up 
the hills. I came to an Innuit monument, and many relics of 
former inhabitants — three earth excavations, made when the In- 
nuits built their houses in the ground. I now see a company of 
eight wolves across the river, howling and running around the 
rocks — howling just like the Innuit dogs. Now beside a noble 
river. Its waters are pure as crystal. From this river I have 
taken a draught on eating by its banks American cheese and 
American bread. The American flag floats flaunlinghj over it 
as the music of its waters seems to be ' Yankee Doodle.' I see 
not why this river should not have an American name. Its wa- 
ters are an emblem of purity. I know of no fitter name to bestow 
upon it than that of the daughter of my generous, esteemed friend, 
Henry Grinnell. I therefore, with the flag of my country in one 
hand, my other in the limpid stream, denominate it ' Sylvia Grin- 
nell Eiver.' 

"For the first half mile from the sea proper it runs quietly. 
The next quarter of a mile it falls perhaps fifteen feet, running 
violently over rocks. The next mile up it is on a level ; then 
come falls again of ten feet in one fifth of a mile ; and thence (up 
again) its course is meandering through low level land. From 
the appearance of its banks, there are times when the stream is 
five times the size of the present. Probably in July this annu- 
ally occurs. The banks are of boulders the first two miles up ; 
thence, in some cases, boulders and grass. Two miles up from 
where it enters the sea, on the east side, is the neck of a plain, 
which grows wider and wider as it extends back. It looks from 
the point where I am as if it were of scores and scores of acres. 
Thence, on the east side, as far as I can see, there is a ridge of 
mountains. On the west side of the river, a plain of a quarter to 
half a mile wide. This is a great salmon river, and so known in 
this country among the Innuits. At our encampment I picked 
up the vertebras of a salmon, the same measuring twenty-one 
inches, and a piece of the tail gone at that. 

" On returning from my ramble this afternoon up Sylvia Grin- 
nell Eiver, saw the wolves again on the other side. They have 
been howling and barking — Innuit dog-like — all day. I hear 



nOT SUN.— BLUEBERRIES. 395 

them now filling the air with their noise, making a pandemonium 
of this beautiful place. I now await the return of Koojesse, 
Kooperneung, and Koodloo, when I hope to have them accom- 
pany me with the boat into every bay and to every island in 
these head-waters of the heretofore called ' Frobisher Strait.' 

" The hunting-party has not yet returned ; possibly it may con- 
tinue absent a week. When these Innuits go out in this way 
they make no preparations, carry no tupic or extra clothing with 
them. The nights now arc indeed cold ; near and at the middle 
of the day, and for four hours after, the sun is hot. This after- 
noon I started with my coat on, but, getting to the top of the hill, 
I took it off and left it. 

"August 21th. A splendid sun and a calm air this day. To- 
morrow I hope to be off, even if Koojesse and party are not back, 
looking here and there, and taking notes of the country ; I can 
man a boat with the Innuit ladies here if I can do no better. Puto 
came in with her infant on her back, and in her hand a dish of 
luscious berries that she had picked this afternoon, presenting the 
same to me. Of course I gave her some needles and a plug of 
tobacco in return. The berries are of various kinds, among which 
are blueberries— called by the Innuits Ki-o-tung-nung — and poung- 
nung, a small round black berry that has the appearance, but not 
the taste of the blueberry. 

" This evening, while in the tupic doing uj) my writing for the 
day, I was visited by several of the Innuits, among whom was 
Suzhi and Ninguarping, both well accpaainted with this part of 
the country. I tried to get the former, when she first called, to 
sketch me Kingaite side of Frobisher Bay, as well as the coast 
about here; but she, having never used the pencil, felt reluctant 
to attempt its use; so she called loudly for Ninguarping, who 
soon came running with all haste to answer to her call. She told 
him what I wanted, and that he must assist her. I gave him pa- 
per and pencil, and he proceeded, giving me very good ideas of 
the Kingaite side. 

"The night is glorious! The sun left the sky in crimson, pur- 
ple, and all the varied shades that go to make up one of God's 
beautiful pictures in these regions. The moon now walks up the 
starry course in majesty and beauty, and the aurora dances in the 
southern sky. 

" Wednesday, A ugust 28//;. Another day of beautiful, glorious 
weather. Jack called on me early this morning, presenting me 



396 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

with two reindeer tongues. Last evening I received another 
bountiful present from an Innuit of ripe poung-nung. They 
taste very much like wild cherries. But what carries me near- 
est home is the blueberry, it is so like in looks and taste to what 
we have. Ninguarping and Jack brought me in this afternoon 
a present of two fine salmon, each measuring twenty inches in 
length. The Innuits call large salmon Ek-er-loo ; small salmon, 
Ek-er-loo-ung. Salmon are caught by the Innuits with a hook 
affixed upon a stick, which answers for a handle. They are also 
caught by spearing them with a peculiar instrument which the 
Innuits manufacture for themselves.* 

"On the return of the party, the seal which Kooperncung shot 
coming in was made the subject of a feast. He (Koojierneung) 
went around and invited all the men Innuits here, who soon came, 
each with seal-knife in hand. They squatted around the seal, and 
opened him up. A huge piece of toodnoo (tuktoo tallow) in one 
hand, and seal liver in the other, I did justice to the same and to 
myself. The Innuits and myself through, the ladies took out- 
places. They are now feasting on the abundance left. Seal is 
the standing dish of provision among the Innuits. They never 
tire of it; while for tuktoo, Ninoo, ducks, salmon, etc., they soon 
find all relish gone. 

" Too-loo-ka-ah shot his deer with Koojessc's gun. He usu- 
ally uses only bow and arrows, the same being in universal use 
among the Innuits on the north side of Hudson's Strait. This 
evening I got Toolookaah to try his skill in using these instru- 
ments — bow and arrow — in making a mark of my felt hat one 
hundred feet off. The arrow shot from his bow with almost the 
speed of a rifle-ball. His aim was a trifle under. He missed 
' felt,' and lost his arrow, which is no small matter. Its force 
buried it in the ground, covered by the luxuriant grass, and all 
our long search proved unsuccessful. The arrow is made with 
great pains, pointed with iron, ^pear-shaped. 

* There is a third method of catching salmon much practised: A kind of trap, 
called tin-ne-je-ving (ebb-tide fish-trap), is made by inclosing a small space with a 
low wall, which is covered at high tide and dry at low water. The salmon go into 
the pen over the wall, but are left by the receding tide till it is too late to return the 
same way, and they thus become an easy prey. 



LAND AND WATERS OF PLENTY. 397 



CHAPTER XXIY. 

Prepare to leave twelfth Encampment. — Proceed on the Voyage. — Passing along 
Head of Frobishcr Bay. — Peale Point. — Bishop's Island. — Land on Kingaite, and 
make thirteenth Encampment. — Author ascends a Mountain. — The "Stars and 
Stripes." — A new Country. — Night at the Camp. — Sunlight on the Mountains. — 
Talk with sick Tweroong. — The Bible. — Innuit Ideas of Heaven and Hell. — Fog- 
gy Day. — Aggoun. — Not a Tuktoo, but a Goose. — Vexatious Delays. — Fourteenth 
Encampment. — A Day of Trials and Discoveries. — Arrive at West side Head of 
Frobishcr Bay. — Jordan's River. — Hazard's Banks. — Explore the new Land. — 
Beamiful Cascade. — Extensive and verdant Plains. — Brent Geese. — Silliman's 
Fossil Mount. — Romantic Pass, the Great Gateway. — A white Whale. — An Innu- 
it's ill Humor. — His savage Attack on his Wife. — Another Walk to the Falls. — 
Picturesque Scenery. — Greenwood's Land. — Reindeer. — Start on Excursion to the 
Great Gateway. — Bad Weather. — Arctic Owl. — Fossils. — Author sick. — Kind 
Attention of Tweroong. — Dish of Salmon. — Laughable Incident. — Koomuk and 
Pepper. — Another Excursion. — Visit to Silliman's Fossil Mount. 

It was on Thursday morning, August 29th, 1861, when wc 
made preparations to leave our twelfth encampment to cross over 
to the westward to Kingaite, along the head of the Bay of Fro- 
bisher. Before I proceed with my narrative, let me bring forward 
an extract from my journal written the evening previous : 

"Indeed we are in a land and by waters of plenty. I am con- 
stantly overwhelmed with presents of the very best of choice eat- 
ing — tuktoo tongues, toodnoo, venison, ducks, seals, and salmon. 
Koopcrncung this moment (8 P.M.) comes in saying that Koo- 
jesse is near by. Now for the trip across the head of Frobishcr Bay 
to Kingaite side. ***** 8 30 P.M. Koojesse has just 
arrived ; brought four tuktoo skins, showing that he has killed as 
many reindeer. "What a pity that such excellent meat as venison 
should be abandoned? He has seen nothing of Koodloo, who 
still remains out. The weather continues fine, and indications are 
every way favorable of its continuance." 

Thursday morning Koodloo had not returned from his prolong- 
ed tuktoo hunt. Arrangements having been previously made 
with him that, in case he returned and found us gone, he should 
make his way over the land terminating Frobishcr Bay to Kin- 
gaite, where he would find us, we decided to strike tupics, pack 
boats, and push on. At 10 30 A.M. the two boats and two kias 
were under way, our course nearly due west, to a point of land 



39S ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

called by the natives Kou-marhbing — named by me Peale Point* 
— that shoots down abruptly some three miles from the most 
northerly extreme of Frobisher Bay. 

We soon passed an indentation in the coast of about three 
miles, at the head of which was a grassy plain, a little inclined 
from the water's edge to the hills that flank it, and extending back 
for about a mile. As we approached Peale Point I found it 
fringed with many islets, and, on arriving there, landed for mak- 
ing meridional observations. Peale Point consists of rugged 
' rocks, which, though not of great height, are yet considerably 
more elevated than any part of the land at the head proper of 
Frobisher Bay. Here we found on the sandy beach large and 
remarkable time-worn boulders, nearly white, and numerous tuk- 
too tracks. I noticed, also, the usual signs of Innuit encamp- 
ments, such as circles of stones, bones of various animals, etc. On 
reaching the lower group of islands near the cape, Koojesse, who 
was in his kia, came alongside. I asked him, " Non-U-ma?" — 
where now? He pointed toward a long island out of our regular 
course across the bay. I told him I wished and expected to go 
direct to the opposite side from our last encampment — to go to 
Ag-goun, the west side of the head of the bay. He replied that 
we could not get there, as the tide would be too low for the boat 
before arriving. I thought differently, and said I wished to go 
there and spend a day or two. He, however, seemed not disposed 
to please me, and remarked that I could see the whole head of 
the bay from the point where he desired to go. I answered that 
this would not do; I must go where I wanted to. If he wished to 
visit the point named, well and good ; he might go there and 
spend the night, but on the morrow I must have him and the 
others proceed with me in the direction I wished. He agreed to 
this, though evidently considering it useless, so long as I could see 
the termination of the bay. 

According to my original purpose, I thought it well to attempt 
to go back by the Kingaite side, that is, opposite to my upward 
route. At all events, I would endeavor to get as far as the island 
Kikitukjua, Gabriel's Islandf of Frobisher, which is not far from 
the locality where " Sampson" and his people were located dur- 
ing my visit to them in the previous winter. It is true that I had 

* Named after Washington Peale, of New York City. It is in lat. G3° 43' 30" N., 
long. G8 D 33'W. 
t The centre of Gabriel's Island is in lat. G2° 51' N., long. 6G° 22' W.— Vide Chart. 



THIRTEENTH ENCAMPMENT. 



399 



intended to revisit the coast on that side ; but still enough had 
been done, with sufficient accuracy, for the civilized world to gain 
a knowledge of the general situation of Frobisher Bay. At least, 
the opinion that these waters are a strait ought not any longer to 
be entertained. 

At 4 P.M., having made a distance of six miles from Peale's 
Point on a course S. 40° W. true, we entered a channel, with 
Kingaite on our right and Bishop's Island* at our left. The coast 
on each side was steep, but in many places covered with grass 
and the usual vegetation to be found here in the North. The en- 
trance to this channel was about half a mile wide ; but, on mak- 
ing a quarter of a mile, it brought us into a harbor that appeared 
to be a fine one, not less than two and a half miles in diameter. 
Thence we passed on a course nearly south to the west side of the 
harbor, where we landed, and there made our thirteenth encamp- 
mentf on Kingaite. 




PgafQ 

LANDINO POD THE NIGHT'S ENCAMPMENT. 

* Thus named after R. M. Bishop, of Cincinnati, Ohio. The centre of this island, 
which hounds the north and eastern side of the harbor of the thirteenth encamp- 
ment, is in lat. C3° 37' N., long. GS' J 85' W. 

t Our thirteenth encampment was in lat. 63° 8G' N., long. C8° 13' W. 



400 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



Throughout this day, on approaching the islands or main land, 
I noticed that the water seemed very shallow, and it was certain 
that no large-sized ships could attempt to reach the head of Fro- 
bisher Bay with any degree of safety. 

Before arriving at the place of our encampment, I saw the tu- 
pics of our other Innuit friends and the curling smoke of their 
fires. As I landed Koodloo greeted us. He had just come in 
from his hunt, having shot and secured skins and toodnoo of four 
deer. This made thirteen that my three men had killed within 
four days. On making up to our intended encampment, all hands 
commenced unloading the boat, the females, as was customary, 
acting as pack-horses in conveying every thing up the steep rocks 
beyond reach of the tide ; then they selected a convenient spot 
and erected the tupics. 

A few moments after our arrival, with the " stars and stripes" 
of my country in one hand and my spyglass in the other, I made 
my way to the crest of a high hill in the rear of our encampment. 
Before starting, the sun was down — to us ; but, as I reached the 
summit, his glorious rays burst upon me. And how glad was my 
heart as I planted the flag of America upon that mountain-top, 
and beheld it fluttering to the breezes of heaven in the sun's light. 
The red, white, and blue — the argent stars — seemed gifted with a 

speaking spirit that said, 
"God hath ever blessed, 
and ever will bless this em- 
blem of freedom and pow- 
er!" Yes, said I, mental- 
ly, that banner now floats 
where white man never 
stood before. The Amer- 
ican flag precedes all oth- 
ers in proclaiming that this 
is the inceptive moment 
when civilization, with all 
its attendant virtues, makes 
hither its advance. 
How soul-inspiring was the scene before me as, drinking in the 
sweets presented to my eyes, I wended my way from one mount- 
ain-top to another. It was night when I got back to our encamp- 
ment, and I was immediately greeted with two welcome presents 
of blueberries. Tweroong brought hers in a gold-banded china 




INKUITS DESIRE TO HEAR OF HEAVEN. 401 

saucer. And a most strange sight it was, here amid the gray old 
rocks, and among this iron people, to see such an emblem of civ- 
ilization as a tea-saucer. It was brim full of ripe, luscious berries, 
which were then very abundant. 

As I descended from the mountains I saw that the white clouds 
were kissing their tops. I knew this was an omen of bad weath- 
er. A thick fog soon settled, and this, on the following day, Au- 
gust 30th, turned into cold and wet, confining mc the whole time 
to our tent. During the day Puto was in our tupic cutting out 
a jacket for Kooperneung's wife. The skins were of a kind of 
seals called by the natives kus-se-gear, which has softer hair than 
some other species, and visits salt and fresh water alike. These 
skins, being beautifully mottled and glossy, make fine-looking 
dresses, and are much prized by the Innuits. Koomuk, wife of 
Toolookaah, both of Sekoselar, brought me a huge reindeer 
tongue. In return I gave her some beads, which greatly delight- 
ed her. Tweroong was there at the time, and I asked her what 
she had done with the beads I had recently presented her. Her 
reph r was that she had given them to the angeko for his services 
in her sickness. As she was a truly generous, kind-hearted wom- 
an, I selected a few more and gave them to her, and in returning 
the remainder to a little tin case, in which I kept my journal, ob- 
servation books, and a few other precious things, my eye rested 
on the Bible. I took it out and held it up before the women, say- 
ing, " This talks to me about Kood-le-par-mi-ung (heaven)." 

If a flash of lightning had come down into the tupic with all its 
blaze it could not have had a more sudden effect than what I said 
and showed to them. At first they looked affrighted, but the 
next instant smiles of great joy appeared upon their countenances. 
I never shall forget that moment. Tweroong was sitting by my 
side on some furs spread upon the ground, making a sketch for 
me of the coast on the north side of Hudson's Strait, while Koo- 
muk was lying on the grass by the tent door, with her head in- 
side, facing us. On the instant that I said the Bible talked to me 
of heaven they both sprang up, apparently banishing all thought 
of every thing else from their minds, and expressed a wish that 
I should talk to them about what it said to me. My imperfect 
knowledge of their language, however, precluded mc from tell- 
ing them much that it did say. Neither could I do more, when 
Tweroong asked me if it talked about Ad-le-pftr-Tn&wi, point- 
ing down, than to answer in the affirmative, bringing forth more 

Cc 



402 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

surprise from them. I need hardly say how much I longed to 
possess the power of communicating to them the truthful beau- 
ties of our Christian faith ; of dwelling upon its heavenly Found- 
er, and of telling them of God. Perchance the day may yet come 
when these people shall no longer be without some one who can 
do so. 

On Saturday, August 31st, the weather was thick and foggy. 
In the morning I had a good wash with snow — not snow of this 
season, however. What its age was I know not; perhaps it be- 
longed to many winters ago; but, notwithstanding, it was fresh 
and white, and it gave me clean, cool hands and face, which is a 
luxury in the North as well as in any other place. By the side 
of this friendly snow-drift was abundant vegetation, green and 
fruitful, and blueberries all around. I picked some with rather 
cold, stiff fingers, and made a capital feast. I had not found any 
place where there was a greater variety of vegetable growth with- 
in the same space. In a little spot, not over four feet square, one 
could count more than fifty different kinds of vegetation. Moss- 
es, grasses, berry-bushes, flowers, willows, and many other plants, 
could be enumerated as abounding in that little plot. But all 
these were quite diminutive ; for instance, the bluebeny -bushes 
were only from an inch to two inches in height. 

On this day I made arrangements with Miner and Koojesse for 
the whole company in the boats and kias to return b}- the Kin- 
gaite side. It was agreed that we should proceed first to Aggoun 
— the Innuit name of the west side of the head of Frobisher Bay 
— and thence return and follow down the coast of Kingaite. The 
chief reason for my making such an arrangement was that, by 
having tico boats, should a mishap occur to one, the other would 
be our "Rescue." 

We started from our thirteenth encampment in the afternoon, 
leaving behind two of the Innuit tents erect, and some sundries, 
to be called for on our return from Aggoun. Our course was di- 
rect for the northwest end of Bishop's Island, upon which I land- 
ed. From its top the whole head of Frobisher Bay, from Sylvia 
Grinnell Biver, northeast side, to Aggoun, west side, was in view. 
It is fourteen nautical miles across. The termination is not by 
deep bays or fiords, but by slight indentations, the greatest not 
exceeding three miles. Bishop's Island was well covered with 
vegetation, especially with reindeer moss, the ground, in many 
parts, being quite carpeted with it. 



FROBISIIER STRAIT A MYTH. 403 

As we descended the side-hill leading to the boat, I found the 
women busily engaged with their cups in blueberry picking, pull- 
ing them now and then by the handful, the berries were so large 
and abundant. Before long the party came on board, bringing 
with them quarts of the luscious fruit, with which they entertain- 
ed us very agreeably, the whole scene carrying me back at once 
ig the friends of my youth. 

lmmits will always be Innuits. When we left our thirteenth 
encampment, one of them had gone off' with his kia to an island 
to hunt some tuktoo, which had been seen two hours before. A 
part of the company had been left with the other boat to await 
the return of the deer-hunter, while the rest of us went on slow- 
ly, stopping at Bishop's Island, as above related. "We had but 
just re-embarked, when Koojesse, looking through his spyglass 
back toward the encampment, announced that the other party had 
a tuktoo in the water — a live tuktoo ! This fired every Innuit ; 
all the powers of reason could not keep them from going to see 
the fun ; and so about we went, and in a moment they were all 
pulling back as for dear life. The sequel was more amusing and 
satisfactory to me than to my Innuits. When they came near 
enough to see their live tuktoo, it turned out to be only a goose ! 

After sundry other vexatious delays of a similar nature we 
were fairly under way, and the scene was for a time pretty in- 
deed. The boats were alongside of each other. The Innuit wom- 
en were at the oars. In the jacket-hood of Puto was her child, 
the constant, measured rock of the body in pulling the oar being 
equal for sleep-giving to any patent Yankee cradle ever invented. 
The gilt head -bands of the ladies glittered and flashed, and the 
whole picture was peculiar and charming. 

At about 6 P.M. we stopped for our fourteenth encampment,* 
the fog shutting us out from all view except of the coast on our 
left. The place where we encamped was on the Kingaite side of 
Frobisher Bay, at the base of a long straight bank of sand and 
shingle, from thirty-five to forty feet high, the top being a grassy 
slope which extended back some three hundred fathoms to the 
mountains. 

■/ember 1st, 1861. A day of trials and discovery. At last I 
am where I have long desired to be. From my own vision, •/■'■- 
Usher's SiraiC is a myth. It only exists in the minds of the civil- 
ized world — a 

* Our fourteenth encampment was in lab 68°tt'N., long. 08° 48' AY. 



40-i ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

" I find this side still more interesting than the other. Here, 
at the west extreme, are far more extensive plains of grassy land 
than elsewhere. Koojesse has this moment passed to my hands 
what I think will prove to be rare geological specimens — fossils." 10 

But let me give the day's occurrences in a methodical form; 
for I wrote the above, and much more, in my diary while sitting 
on the rocks that are at the head of Frobisher Bay, after several 
hours' severe labor. 

The morning commenced thick and foggy, with occasional 
glimpses of finer weather. I ascended to the plain in the rear of 
the fourteenth encampment, at the top of the sand and shingle 
bank, and saw much vegetation, with numerous signs of reindeer 
in the neighborhood. Then I examined wherever I could ; but 
my view was very limited, as numerous islands bounded the vi- 
sion toward the bay. At low water frequent shoals are exposed, 
and even to navigate our boats thus far we had been obliged to 
wait for the tide at half flood. 

When I desired to get under way, I found that Koojesse, with- 
out saying one word to me about it, had gone out on the mount- 
ains tuktoo hunting. Kooperneung had also taken Miner's kia, 
and had set out in advance after seals. Thus was I perpetually 
annoyed by the freaks and vagaries of this free and independent 
people. At last, however, at 1 P.M., we left our encampment and 
proceeded up the west side of the bay, toward its extreme head, 
called by the Innuits Aggoun. 

I had a boat's crew of women ; for Koodloo, who had frequent- 
ly proved himself a lazy dog, sat in the bow with his oar peaked, 
leisurely reclining on his thwart. Having gone for some time 
in a northwesterly direction, I turned the boat toward the shore 
(Kingaite side), intending to laud and visit a remarkable ridge of 
what seemed to be sand, stretching a mile or so along the coast. 
Before getting near the shore, though, I could see that the water 
was becoming very shallow, the bottom being of fine sand, and 
the boat soon grounded. As I could not make a landing, I 
concluded to push on, for I felt sure that we were very near the 
termination of Frobisher Bay. I reckoned without my host, how- 
ever, in thinking to get on without trouble. The Innuits of my 
boat looked back to the craft of " Miner," and declared that the 
latter was making an encampment about a mile behind. I found 
the crew bent on going thither, but I was determined this should 
not be. I asked Suzhi, " Nouiima Aggoun ?"— where is Aggoun ? 



HAZARD'S BANKS.— GREAT GATEWAY. 405 

She pointed to where Miner was. I knew this to be but a trick 
to get me back. I felt that I could manage women at least, and 
cried out A-chool! — pull ahead — returning a decided negative to 
their prayers to go back. With some difficulty I brought them 
to their working senses. 

Fiually we reached the estuary of a river — Jordan's River,* as 
I have named it — and, after crossing it, landed on its eastern side. 
"We were then obliged to wade quite a distance to the shore prop- 
er through mud that was nearly knee deep. On a small grass- 
plat of Hazard's Banksf we made our fifteenth encampment. 

Leaving the Innuits to unload the boat, I started off on a tramp 
of discovery, and continued my course up the river, which at first 
ran in a northwest direction, and then, for a short distance, more 
northerly. As I walked along, charmed with the prospect before 
me, I came across a skull, which I took up for the purpose of as- 
certaining from the Innuits to what animal it belonged. I after- 
ward found that it was that of a white whale. I saw around me, 
as I advanced, that vegetation was abundant, and signs of animal 
life were very numerous. As I rounded a rocky eminence by the 
river side, at a distance of a mile from where I had left the boat, 
a beautiful cascade, at the head of tide-water, was before me, and 
at its base a little sheet of water nearly covered with Brent geese. 

From this point an extensive and picturesque scene burst upon 
my view. Before me were long and wide plains, meadows of 
grass, smoothly-sloping hills, and a range of mountains beyond, 
which, parting in one particular spot, formed, as it were, a natural 
gateway, that might almost lead, in fancy, to some fairy land be- 
yond. At my left, across the river, was a ridge of white, which I 
afterward named Silliman's Fossil Mount,:}: and behind it the un- 
broken front of a line of mountains extending northwesterly to 
the opening which I have called the Great Gateway. On the oth- 
er, or northern side, the mountins continued from this singular 
opening on by Frobisher Bay to the locality around Field Bay, 
far to the southwest and eastward. Flocks of little chirping birds 
greeted me at every turn, and nowyers and ducks were in num- 

* Named after Daniel B. Jordan, of Cincinnati, Ohio. 

t The land on the cast side of the estuary of Jordan's River I have named after 
Charles S. Hazard, of New York City. Hazard's Banks are in lat. C3° 4G' N., long. 
C8° 52 • W. 

t Thus named after Benjamin Silliman. Jr.. of New naven, Conn. Thi< fossil 
mount is on the west side of the termination of Frobisher Bay. It is in lat. 6 
long.C8°5G'. 



406 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

bers before my eye. Words can not express my delight, in view 
of this scene, as I stood by the waterfall, beholding its white spray, 
and the clear, limpid stream of the river. 

The fall is about twenty-five feet in three or four rods, and at 
no place over four feet descent at once. The river is not so large 
as the Sylvia Grinnell, and yet, though the season is evidently a 
dry one, much water flows along, and at certain portions of the 
year this stream must discharge a large quantity. The banks in 
some places are of fine sand, and in others, farther up, of ledges 
of rocks that are from fifty to sixty feet high. I wandered about 
for two hours, and then returned to our camp. 

Miner's boat was out at the time, but I soon saw it approaching 
at great speed, its crew shouting lustily. In a moment I perceived 
the cause of their excitement. A white whale was swiftly mak- 
ing its way through the waters toward the main bay. The In- 
nuits were after it, and their shouting voices made the neighbor- 
hood ring again ; but it escaped, and the boat came to our en- 
campment, the occupants in no good humor. One of the men, 
Charley, clearly proved this. His wife was helping to unload the 
boat, and had to walk through deep mud with a heavy load upon 
her shoulder. Suddenly, for some unknown cause, Charley, with 
great force, threw his seal-hook directly at her. It caught in her 
jacket. Turning round, she calmly took it out, and then walked 
on again. It was a cruel act of the man, but these Innuits always 
summarily punish their wives for any real or imaginary offense. 
They seize the first thing at hand — a stone, knife, hatchet, or spear 
— and throw it at the offending woman, just as they would at their 
dogs. 

Two of our party were still absent. Koojesse, however, made 
his appearance on the opposite side of the river, and it was nec- 
essary to send the kia to fetch him off. Now a kia has but one 
hole in its covering for the person who uses it ; therefore, if a sec- 
ond person is to be carried any where, he or she must take a po- 
sition directly behind the other occupant, lying flat on the face, 
perfectly straight and still. It was in this manner that Koojesse, 
and afterward Toolookaah, were brought oil'. 

I had another walk up to the falls, and again the scene appear- 
ed to me as one of the most beautiful I had ever beheld. I felt 
like those old Icelanders who visited the regions west of them, 
and, because of more verdure seen than in their own country, ex- 
claimed, "This is Greenland!" In the present case, my feeling 



GREENWOOD'S LAND. 407 

was that no more appropriate name could be given to the district 
before me than " Greenwood's Land," in honor of Miles Green- 
wood, of Cincinnati, Ohio. I think no one, not even an English 
geographer, will question my right to name this land. At the 
head of Frobisher Bay — now positively determined to be such, 
and no longer a "strait"' — exists this beautiful and fertile dis- 
trict, and I considered the name of Greenwood to be especially 
appropriate. 

On the morning of September 2d, after breakfast, reindeer were 
seen on the plain across the river, and immediate chase was given 
by some of our hunters. Two were speedily captured, and all 
hands soon began the task of skinning the animals and preparing 
food. While the people were thus occupied, I started, accompa- 
nied by Tunukderlien and Toolookaah, for an excursion inland 
toward the Great Gateway. We arrived at a place opposite the 
falls, and there, seated on the green carpet of nature, the woman 
commenced sewing, while I occupied myself with my journal. 
Koojesse, who was to go with me, shortly arrived, crossing the 
river to us by fearful leaps from rock to rock over the rushing 
stream. Soon after, Toolookaah — who had gone across the river 
to a feast at the place where the reindeer were killed — rejoined 
us, and we again proceeded on our exploring trip; but in a short 
time rain fell, and we had to take shelter under a huge boulder 
rock, distant from the tupics six miles. Finally, as a heavy storm 
set in, spoiling my excursion for the day, we returned to the en- 
campment. During our journey a white owl was seen ; also par- 
tridges and other wild game. Several rare specimens of fossils 
were also picked up, and in every direction I found abundant evi- 
dence of a region fertile to the explorer. 

The two reindeer shot this morning were mother and young. 
The latter was fired at first. The parent then hastened to her 
offspring, and this enabled the shrewd Innuits to kill the doe. It 
is the general custom among this people, in chasing the deer, to 
kill the fawn first ; then it is rare indeed that the mother is not 
also secured. 

For some time past I had been suffering from painful boils, and 
the morning of September 3d found me quite ill, and confined to 
my fur bed inside the tupic. I felt no inclination to cat until the 
kind-hearted Tweroong came in, with her pretty china tea-saucer 
full of golden salmon, smoking hot. The very sight <>f it made 
me better. It was delicious, and seemed to fairly melt in my 



408 ARCTIC RESEAECH EXPEDITION. 

mouth. It did me much good, and I could not help thinking of 
my present situation as contrasted with that of other civilized 
men. There, alone, among a people termed " unenlightened, sav- 
ages, and degraded beings" — away by myself in a newly-discov- 
ered region, that is, in a district previously untrodden by my own 
white race — confined by sickness within a shelter that scarcely 
protects from rain and wind — every thing dripping wet — suffer- 
ing from the pain of my body, and having no person to procure 
me what I might want, I am unexpectedly visited by a woman 
of the land, bearing in her hand a beautiful emblem of civiliza- 
tion filled with the most dainty dish — boiled salmon — fresh from 
the river I had just discovered. Truly woman — a good woman — 
is an angel wherever she is. The vision of Tweroong will long 
live in my memory. God bless the kind-hearted Innuit for her 
thoughtfulness, and her care of the white-man stranger in her own 
wonderful land. 

During the day Koojesse was using in his soup some pepper 
which I had brought with me as a condiment. Koomuk desired 
to taste it, and Koojesse at once gratified her wish. He sifted 
some into her open hand, and she immediately lapped it up in one 
dose. The next moment all the contortions, grimaces, jumping, 
and spitting that could be imagined followed. The woman seem- 
ed as if stricken with sudden madness, and, when once more calm, 
declared that nothing should ever induce her to put such vile 
stuff in her mouth again. An hour later, Toolookaah, Koomuk's 
vring-a (husband), was served in a similar way. He came into the 
tent, and, seeing that something from my well-seasoned dish was 
still left, he desired to have it. What he thus coveted was mere- 
ly salt and pepper, articles to him unknown. He, thinking it to 
be a delicacy of the white man's, licked it all up in quick time. 
The result may be imagined. Though myself sick, I could not 
control my laughter, in which "Miner" and the other Innuits 
joined on beholding the poor man's terror and dismay, added to 
the most comical contortions of his countenance. In Koomuk's 
case she had only pepper, but Toolookaah had a double dose — 
pepper and salt — and he suffered accordingly. 

The next day, September 4th, I was still confined to my tent by 
sickness. The abscess on my shoulder had become so painful that 
every remedy in my power to apply was resorted to. At length 
a salve formed of reindeer tallow gave me some relief. During 
this time every kind attention was paid to me by the Innuit worn- 



GOOD-SOULED TWEROONG. 4Q9 

en, especially Tweroong, who frequently brought various cooked 
dishes to tempt my poor appetite. Oh, woman ! thou, indeed, 
canst rob pain of its sting, and plant refreshing flowers in its 
place. Thy mission is a glorious one. Even among the rudest 
tribes of the earth thy softening hand and kindly heart are found. 
No land, however distant, however repulsive, limits thy noble 
deeds. Thy words may be few, but they are musical to one sick 
in body or wearied in mind ; thy good works may be silently 
clone, but they are lasting and immeasurable. 

A very high tide occurred on the morning of September 5th. 
The weather was pleasanter, but many signs were manifest which 
urged me to return to the ship. The Kingaite mountains were 
topped with white, and the cold was sensibly felt in the night 
time ; but my sick state still prevented me from moving out on 
any land excursion, as I wished. The same morning "Miner," 
with his wife and crew, left for the place of our thirteenth en- 
campment. 

I here bring forward a few extracts from my journal : 

u Thursday, September 5th. * * * * To-morrow we leave 
our fifteenth encampment for the place of the thirteenth. There 
I shall find my good-souled Innuit friend Tweroong, who will pre- 
pare me something good. I do not like to leave here till I have 
done more work ; but I must go, sick as I am. 

" The weather now indicates a favorable change. The evening 
is pleasant. I pray God to bless me with restored health. 

" This evening, at high tide, I and Koojesse were going to take 
the boat and ferry the river, that I might visit the remarkable 
phenomenon of these regions — the Sand Mount; but I have sent 
for him to come to my tupic, saying I could not go — was not able, 
indeed. 

" The snow that fell last night, and which whitened the mount- 
ains of Kingaite this morning, has disappeared during the day. 

"Friday, September Qth. Anothcr'terrible night of struggle with 
pains. When shall I be well again ? The fine weather of to-day 
has been of some benefit. God be praised. 

"This morning, at an early hour, I was up. I might as well 
have been up all night; for, though down on a soft tuktoo bed, 
and dry, yet I could get no sweet sleep. 

"When the tide was up sufficient to set the boat afloat, I got 
Koojesse and Koodloo to ferry me across the river, that I might 
visit the peculiar sight which had been constantly staring me in 



410 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



my face during my five days' stop at the fifteenth encampment. 
I visited that phenomenon; I mounted it, and went around it 
also. It is a mount of marine fossils in limestone, half a mile 
long, and over a hundred feet high. It presents something of 
this appearance, the long line of Kingaite mountains behind 
stretching away to the Gateway northwest. 




SILLIMAH'S FOSBtl. MODST. 

* * •::• •:> >. T/hc debris of the fossils begins at or near the 
top of the mount, falling at such an angle as broken stone from a 
mountain always makes — an inclination of about -i0°. Above the 
talus, or heap of broken stone's, is a mass of fossils in limestone, 
strata-like. A smaller mount* of the same character is close by, 
but all in debris. It seems to have been divided from the main by 
the rushing down of waters from the mountains behind. A small 
stream comes down the mountains, passes along, and finally makes 
its way out between the two fossil mounts. This is also indica- 
ted in the course of this stream, as an acre or more of the plain 

* The small mount referred to is not represented in tlie illustration, but is to the 
right, or northwest of the main one. 



SILLIMAN'S FOSSIL MOUNT. 41 1 

is covered several feet in depth with the washcd-down debris of 
fossils. I picked up several specimens, and have them with me. 
The top of Silliman's Fossil Mount is covered with boulders and 
grass. Even when close to the small mount it looks like sand, 
but on examination it is fine broken limestone and fossils. 

" Having spent two hours on and around this interesting mount, 
I made my way over the plain of grass between said mount and 
the river, and cried to those at the fifteenth encampment. Soon 
Koodloo, with two of the lady portion of the crew, put out after 
me. I had my arms and pockets full of specimens, and a hard, 
weak, weary time did I have of it. 

"I had thought to cut in stone, somewhere near the fifteenth 
encampment, my name, or something to indicate m)' visit here (to 
the head of the Bay of Frobisher), but I had not the tools to do it 
with. This thought occurred to me on the idea that some of civ- 
ilization who may yet make a voyage here might have this proof 
that I had preceded him or them. 

" But the description of the river, the falls, the fossil mount, the 
miles of exposed bottom at low tide, will answer as well. "What 
better proof do I want ? 

■• AA'hcn we got back to the encampment the tide had begun to 
fall. This indicated that, if we would get away to-day, we must 
make haste. The tupics I found all struck, and every thing ready 
for departure. I made the observations which commence this 
day's record, and then we were ready for our homeward voyage 
by way of Kingaite side. "What deep regrets thus to depart from 
this interesting land that I have denominated Greenwood's Land !" 



412 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Departure from Greenwood Land. — Numerous Rocks. — Furious Tides. — Narrow 
Escape. — Preservation Island. — Beginning of Winter. — Ice forming. — Author's 
Illness. — Visits the principal Islands at Head of the Bay. — Koojesse a skillful 
Boatman. — Another critical Position. — Nearly wrecked. — Saved by the rising 
Tide. — Departure homeward. — The Kingaite Coast. — Boisterous Weather. — De- 
tained on a rugged Island. — Renew the Voyage. — Difficulties with the Innuit 
Crew. — Freedom and Independence. — Land, and make eighteenth Encampment. 

My desire was to have continued here much longer, and thor- 
oughly to have examined the vicinity of the natural " Gateway" 
already mentioned ; but my companions were urgent to go, and I 
was obliged to yield. Accordingly, on the morning of Septem- 
ber 6th, 1861, our tupics were struck, and we set out on the return 
journey. 

It was 9 37 A.M. when we left our fifteenth encampment, and 
at ten o'clock we landed Koojesse and Koodloo on the opposite 
side of the estuary. They were desirous of going on another 
tuktoo hunt across the mountains, and were to rejoin us at the 
place where our thirteenth encampment had been made, the point 
to which we were now bound. There were thus left in the boat 
with me only the three women of my crew, and I was not free 
from anxiety till we had passed a point of land which I called the 
"Little Peak," and which was by the water's edge, surrounded 
by dangerous shoals. Then I supposed we had got over the crit- 
ical portion of our way. 

When abreast of the fourteenth encampment, and near a small 
island about one mile from that station, I found we were being 
carried along by the ebbing tide at a rapid rate, but I then appre- 
hended no danger. Suzhi, who was experienced in boating, joy- 
ously called my attention to the swiftness of our progress, saying, 
with a sweeping motion of her hand, "p&e-uJce/" (good). But 
soon this feeling of pleasure was destrcyed. It was not five min- 
utes after Suzhi's exclamation when we were all strue^ling for 
dear life. 

The island wc were approaching was small, and it seemed to us 
that it mattered little on which side of it we should pass. On 



NARROW ESCATE. 413 

standing up, however, and looking ahead, this opinion -was changed. 
I saw that rocks began to peer out in the channel between the 
island and the main land, and we therefore steered for the other 
channel. But all at once, and only half a mile ahead, rocks ap- 
peared above water right in our course. This led us quickly to 
look over the boat's side, to see if we could see the bottom. To 
our dismay, jagged rocks showed themselves almost within reach 
of our hands, the boat meanwhile carried along at a mill-race 
speed by a fierce rushing tide. It was enough to make one feel 
how feeble a creature man is at such a time. The Innuits were 
terribly alarmed at the sight ahead and under us. The rocks 
showed how fearfully fast we were going. On smooth water the 
speed is not so perceptible; but where objects, and especially 
dangerous objects, are visible ahead, around, and under you, such 
swift motion is not only seen, but felt. So it was then with us. 
Immediate action, however, was necessary ; and seeing what I 
thought to be an eddy not far off, I at once turned the boat's head 
in that direction. 

By the time we reached this eddy we had been swept down 
some distance, and in order to clear the threatened danger from 
the rapids ahead, I reversed our course, and tried to pull back. 
The tide was now falling rapidly, and we rowed for our lives ; 
but all we could do was to hold our own. Our greatest exertions 
could not advance us one step away from the danger. Every 
moment I looked over the boat's side to see how far we might 
hope to escape the rocks, and it was truly awful as I caught sight 
of what was beneath us. The tide was rushing as if in the mad- 
dest fury. "We could not clear ourselves. Our strength was fast 
failing, and if the boat were allowed for a moment to sweep with 
the tide, we should be lost. No chance seemed possible unless we 
could make the island itself. But how to reach it was the ques- 
tion. The tide rushed along its side as fiercely as where we then 
were, with a noise which could be heard in all directions. Still, 
we had no alternative. 

Placing the boat's head in such an oblique direction as to make 
allowance for the current, we pulled toward a bight of the island, 
where there seemed to be smoother water. The next moment. 
however, the boat was whirled round, stem for stern, in such a 
manner as to take all power out of our hands. Then again we 
thought ourselves lost; but the very movement which thus terri- 
fied us really threw us into such a position that a few strong 



4U 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 




v i>: r. ,.ati [l i.i. 



pulls sent the boat within that island cove, where all was still as 
a summer lake. " Heaven be praised !" said I; and there was oc- 
casion for gratitude, for not ten minutes after nearly all the rocks 
in the course we had made were above water. Soon after getting 
on shore, the boat was left high and dry by the receding tide, and 
in another hour we could see the bottom of the bay for miles, one 
mass of boulder and shingle. The different islands could now be 
visited by walking to them dry-shod. No ship, and hardly a 
boat, except with much care, could venture up this side of the 
bay. It was only by watching, and taking advantage of the tide, 
that even our small boat could be navigated to the head of Fro- 
bisher Ba} r . 

I may here mention the singular action of the tides. While on 
our way hither I had heard the roar of waters, as if a heavy surf 
were beating on the shore, and I several times asked Suzbi what 
it meant. Her reply was "Tar-ri-o" meaning "the sea;" but as 
no severe storm had raged sufficiently to cause such an uproar of 
the waters, I replied, " Tarriolce na-rne. Kooncj!" — not the sea ; it 
is the river. Thereupon she appealed to her companions, both 
of whom confirmed her statement, saying it was the sea. "When 
we were upon the island I was convinced that they were right. 
The sea — that is, the waters of the bay — came rushing up on 
the flood tide, and went out with the ebb in the impetuous 
manner already described. It will be recollected that I doubt- 
ed Koojesse's judgment on the day we left our twelfth encamp- 
ment, and crossed with a view of proceeding to Aggoun. He ob- 



DANGEHOUS TIDES. 415 

jected to making the attempt, asserting that there would be diffi- 
culty in doing it, owing to the shallow- water and the tides. 1 
now knew that he was right, and I well understood why the In- 
nuits dreaded the trip, and held back. In commemoration of our 
providential escape, I called this place "Preservation Island. - ' 

We remained on that island six hours, and at P.M. resumed 
our trip. I found that the tide was quite eight feet higher when 
we left than when we put in to our place of refuge. How it could 
be so, and still be rushing past the island with such velocity that 
little headway could be made against it, I can not explain. "When 
the tide turned from ebb to flood wc could see it coming in afar 
off. Its roar was like that of the sea raging in a storm. On it 
came with great volume and velocit}-. A person situated mid- 
way between some of the islands about there when a flood tide is 
commencing would have to run at full five miles an hour to es- 
cape being overwhelmed. The flood tide, indeed, seemed even 
swifter than the ebb. How long and anxiously I stood on Pres- 
ervation Island, watching that incoming of the mighty waters ! 
How I gazed at the boiling and the seething, the whirlpools — 
waterfalls — mill-races made by the tide as it rushed along ! The 
sun was fast sinking behind the mountains of Kingaite, and the 
air w*is becoming cold. I once thought we should have to stay 
there for the night, but it was evident that such a course would be 
our destruction, as the island would undoubtedly be submerged 
at high water. Waitiug, therefore, would not do ; and, according- 
ly, we pushed off at the time I have mentioned. 

My continued illness made me almost incapable of exertion ; 
yet it was necessary to work, and to work hard. I steered the 
boat, and also aided Tunukderlien at the oar nearest me. I had 
constantly to keep a good look-out ahead for shoals. These, how- 
ever, were foam-crested, showing where danger was to be avoided. 
And thus on we went, pulling rapidly down to the point of des- 
tination under difficulties that few can understand. Darkness 
coming on, our bark a frail boat, our crew Innuit women, and 
myself almost incapacitated by illness, it is easier to imagine than 
to describe my feelings while we were thus making the passage 
from the head of Frobisher Bay to the place where our whole 
party had to encamp. 

Suzhi was so powerful at her oar that she often pulled the boat 
half round, and I had to guard against this by my twenty-two 
feet steering-oar. But all were earnest hi the endeavor to reach 



416 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

a good landing before the tide again turned ; for if we should not 
accomplish this, nothing, in all human probability, could save us. 

At length we arrived in safety at the place of our thirteenth 
encampment, the point we desired to reach, and where we now 
made our sixteenth encampment. Here most of the company 
were awaiting our arrival. 

On the 7th of September I kept myself quiet ; indeed, I was 
obliged to do so. The abscess on my shoulder was so painful 
that I could not stir without difficulty. I thought of the many 
obstacles I had encountered in the prosecution of my discoveries, 
but consoled myself with the reflection that, at all events, some- 
thing had been done since my leaving the United States. Over- 
whelmed with disappointment at not being able to proceed on my 
voyage to King William's Land, I yet had some gratification in 
the knowledge that my present voyage had not been wholly lost. 
I had, at least, established a geographical fact that "Frobisher 
Strait" is nothing but a Lay. While I was reclining on my couch 
suffering severe pain, I said to myself, Perhaps the kind friends at 
home, who have helped me in my exertions, may consider that, 
under all the circumstances, I have not thrown away my time and 
labor, and may still give me their friendship and support. If so, 
I shall be well repaid. 

This day "Miner" and his crew departed for the purpose of 
hunting more game and securing furs for the winter. The males 
of my party — much to my annoy ance — had left me two days be- 
fore, on the chase. 

On the next day, September 8th, I felt that winter had indeed 
begun. Ice formed at night, and a severe snow-storm that morn- 
ing set in. We were still detained by Koojesse and his comrades, 
who continued absent ; and for two days I was confined to my 
tent, with only occasional walks in the vicinity. On the 10th of 
September I went over the mountains westward to make a sur- 
vey, as far as possible, of the whole of this locality. On my route 
I met Koojesse and Koodloo, just returning from their four days' 
hunt. Koojesse was so much fatigued that he could hardly speak. 
Both of them had packs of skins upon their backs, which they 
soon threw off, and then sat down to rest. Their first call was 
for tobacco, but, much to their disappointment, I had none with 
me. Poor fellows ! they had been without a " smoke" or a " chew" 
for two days, and were suffering much from the want of it. 

I found that Koojesse had the skins of four tuktoo, and Kood- 



ANOTHER BOAT SCENE. 417 

loo of three. For these seven skins they had been four clays and 
three nights out, ascending mountains, wading rivers, sleeping 
out in snow-storms, their garments wet, with no spare ones to 
put on, and exposed to every change and privation. These In- 
rraits do indeed toil for their winter clothing. I asked Koojesse 
how they managed in such stormy weather as we had experienced, 
and with the nights so dark. He replied that when each had 
killed one or two deer, they were all right. They stacked their 
guns, or, if near rocks, selected a suitable spot for a temporary 
tupic, made of the skins with the hair-side in. They then wrap- 
ped themselves in a tuktoo skin, and so slept warm and soundly. 
Helping them with their burdens as far as my weak state would 
permit, I continued on my trip of observation and discovery, while 
the two Inuuits returned to the encampment, where, much to their 
vexation, they learned from the woman that a bear had been seen 
close by. My walk alone, of six miles or more, resulted in my 
making the discovery of the two streams which flow into the Bay 
of the Two Eivers. 

That night another severe snow-storm came on from the south- 
east, and toward noon of the 11th the wind shifted to the north- 
west. The weather then moderated, and I set out in the boat, 
accompanied by Koojesse and Koodloo, for the purpose of visiting 
the islands inclosing a kind of harbor, on the shores of which we 
were encamped. The wind was blowing strong in our favor, and 
we therefore made sail, intending to keep under canvas the whole 
way. "We had only one oar available, the rest having been used 
as frames for the tupics. As we sailed along, how exhilarating 
was the scene ! The boat seemed to fly, so buoyantly it sped on 
its way. Koojesse steered, and well did he guide us between 
rocks' and sand-spits in our course. Bounding over the crested 
waves, and lifting itself clear of every thing but spray, our frail 
bark soon carried us to the point I wished to reach. It was on 
the east side of the harbor, on Bishop's Island, that I landed with 
Koojesse, while Koodloo remained in the boat to keep it from 
grounding, as the tide was already on the turn, and going out 
swiftly. 

Our steps were rapid as we went over the banks of snow, up 
on'' hill, then across a valley, and thence up to the crest of anoth- 
er hill — Mount Observation, as I called it — whence I could obtain 
a good view. Ilere I took several observations, as fast as I well 
could, noting them down at the time. The view from this point 

Dd 



418 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXl'EDITION. 

was extensive. It included the whole coast that terminates Fro- 
bisher Bay. I embraced that as the last opportunity I would 
have of linking together, by the use of my survey instruments, 
many important places in that locality. Some of the observations 
I there made for relative geographical positions include the fol- 
lowing points : the Great Gateway ; Hazard's Banks, place of fif- 
teenth encampment; Peale Point; place of twelfth encampment, 
by Sylvia Grinnell River ; place of fourteenth encampment ; place 
of thirteenth and sixteenth encampments ; island " Frobisher's 
Farthest ;" and a long line of coast down on the Kingaitc side. 

Having accomplished my purpose, we then quickly returned to 
the boat. Again we made sail ; but hardly bad wc started, when, 
in an instant, we were aground. Out jumped Koojesse, who, with 
two or three good " heaves" cleared the shore, and once more away 
we went. But soon — ahead, here, there, every where — shoals ap- 
peared. Koojesse, however, now showed himself to possess much 
of the daring and fearlessness of a skillful sailor. He was the 
wild spirit guiding us safely through many dangers. His skill, 
however, could not save us from a peril into which we now ran, 
and out of which we escaped only by the care of a merciful Prov- 
idence. The tide proved too strong for us, and we found our- 
selves, near nightfall, driven on a small rocky island of the harbor 
by our sixteenth encampment. We at length made our slow and 
tedious way in the midst of a strong gale, among dangerous shoals 
and threatening waves. At times, driven out of our course by the 
force of the wind, we would lose all the ground we had gained, 
finding ourselves really farther from home than when we started ; 
and at last we were on the point of giving up in despair of reach- 
ing our encampment that night, when the tide turned. Even with 
this favoring us, we sped along in imminent peril; and ■ now, 
while I write, the thought of that moment comes to me with a 
thrill of excitement. As we flew over a rocky bottom that al- 
most kissed our keel, I exchanged looks with my companions 
that expressed more than words could have said ; and as now 
and then our boat would ride with a shock upon some boulder in 
its course, all hands would work with a silent energy which spoke 
volumes regarding the critical posture of our affairs. Our satis- 
faction and my gratitude may be imagined when we at last reach- 
ed the spot we called home, and found hot coffee, besides all the 
comforts of Innuit life, awaiting us at the hands of Suzhi. 

Thursday, September 12th, was the thirty-fifth day from the 



RETURN VOYAGE. 419 

ship and. the seventh at the sixteenth encampment. On that 
morning I determined no longer to delay, but at once to return to 
the George Henry (if she had not sailed), going down by the Kin- 
gaite side of Frobisher Bay. Accordingly, at 10 A.M. we all start- 
ed on our homeward journey. The tide at starting was just 
sufficient to float us over the rocks, and we had a breeze to help 
us, but the weather was unfavorable. In some places we could 
see a snow-storm raging, and every sign of winter was now per- 
ceptible. Our trip that day was along the Kingaite coast, and 
after a few hours' sail we reached an island I have named Twer- 
oong,* on which Miner's party had encamped, where we also 
pitched our tents for the night, making our seventeenth encamp- 
ment. 

The next day (September 13th) we were confined to our tents 
on a small rocky island by a heavy gale and a furious sea ; but 
on the 14th the weather became more moderate, and we resumed 
our boat-voyage, crossing over from the island to Cape Rammels- 
berg,f on the Kingaite side, that I might examine it. 

While we were there, a fine-looking tuktoo was discovered ly- 
ing on one of the little plains. Kooperneung at once went off 
with his double-barreled gun to secure it. I could sec the royal 
antlers of the noble animal as it quietly reposed, unconscious of 
its fate. As Kooperneung approached it scented a foe, started 
up, and away it went at full speed ; but too late. One report — 
another. The tuktoo was a prize, having rushed on its fate in flee- 
ing toward a rocky pass where the cunning Innuit had secreted 
himself. 

We made our eighteenth encampment about four or five miles 
from this place, at Cape Caldwell.:}: and on the morning of Sep- 
tember loth proceeded on our way. I may here observe, that 
few of those who read this book can have any conception of 
the many difficulties I had to encounter in my task. Innuits 
are Innuits, and such they ever will be. They are independent 
of every other human being, and will never brook control, no 
matter what engagements they enter into. At this particular 
time of which I am writing — and, indeed, during all my work at 

• After the noble-hearted Innuit woman Tweroon?. This island, place of our 
seventeenth encampment, is in hit. (,:'P 28' N., long. 68° 21' W. 

+ Named after Frederick Rammclsbcrg, of Cincinnati, Ohio. This cape is in lat. 
81' 80" N., long. 68° 20' \V. 

% I have named this cape after John D. Caldwell, of Cincinnati, Ohio. It is in 
lat. G3 Q 23' 30" X., long. CS° 1 7 \Y. 



420 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the head of Frobisher Bay, and on my way thither and back — I 
was completely at the mercy of Koojesse and his companions. 
He especially would do just as he pleased ; and if I attempted to 
show opposition or express a determination to do as /might wish, 
ominous looks and sharp words met me. Several times I felt 
obliged to submit, for I knew my life was wholly in their hands. 
When Koojesse, who steered the boat, was directing our course 
away from the Kingaite side, and when I recpuestcd him to re- 
main where I wished to make an examination, he curtly and even 
savagely replied, " You stop ; I go." I was forced to smother my 
anger, and submit to the mortification of being obliged to yield 
before these untamed children of the icy North. Eeflection has, 
however, convinced me that I can hardly blame them, as I then 
felt inclined. They are born free as their native wilds ; they have 
no one to control or check them ; they roam about as they will ; 
and, while they have to find subsistence as best they can, it would 
be almost too much to expect any subservience from them to a 
stranger, especially when he is alone. They are in so many points 
naturally noble in their character, and I received so much kind- 
ness at their hands, that it would be unjust to make their obsti- 
nate self-will, when on excursions with me, a cause of great com- 
plaint. I mention the matter, however, to show that I was unable 
to accomplish as much as I wished, owing to this very cause. 



INN LIT OBSTINACY. 421 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Continue the Voyage. — Land on an Island. — Innuit Insolence. — Leave Kingaite 
Coast for the North Side of the Bay of Frobisher. — Arrive at nineteenth Encamp- 
ment. — Innnit Superstition. — Extraordinary Scenes. — Singular Customs. — Twen- 
tieth Encampment. — Drinking Deer's Blood. — Twenty-first Encampment. — 
More Ankooting. — Mystical Songs. — "Fool's Gold." — Parting with old Too-loo- 
ka-ah. — Arrival at Niountelik. — Proceed to Kodlunarn, or "White Man's" Isl- 
and. — Important Discoveries. — Ship's Trench. — Ruins of Stone Houses. — Coal 
and Tile. — Return to Niountelik and encamp. — Next Day's Search. — Cruise in 
" Countess of Warwick Sound." — The American Flag again upraised. — Arrive 
at Tikkoon. — Discovery of a heavy Piece of Iron. — Passage across the Sound. — 
Strong Breeze. — Proceed up Victoria Bay. — Magnificent Scenery. — Precipitous 
Mountains. — A Cave. — A Seal Jloating on the Waters. — Ekkelezhun. — A fine and 
secure Harbor. — Discovery of several Tons of Coal and Flint-stones. — Return to 
Niountelik. 

That the reader may be advancing with me as I proceed with 
my narrative, and, at the same time, get an idea of some of the 
trials referred to near the close of the preceding chapter, I will 
here introduce the following extracts directly from my " rough- 
and-ready" note-book, written at the moment and upon the spur 
of the occasion : 

"rAMffu&L loth, 1S61. Start from eighteenth encampment at 6 15 
A.M., wind light from the west, and cloudy. Both boats and the 
two kias under way. 'Miner' has just shot a nowycr on the 
wing from his kia. First pop, down it comes. YVe arc on the 
rocks first thing ; ' bad beginning, good ending.' Under oars ; 
the fifth oar can not be used on account of the overloaded boat. 
Another Job's comforter on my shoulder, the sinister. Geese fly- 
ing to the southward. Little girl Shoo-kok (whalebone) on board 
our boat. 8 45 A.M., land on a small island to bail the old leaky 
boat. This moment I ask Koojesse which way now, the many 
islands ahead making it doubtful which is the better course. lie 
points across the bay to the other or north side. I suspected this 
was the way he was directing the boat. He acts the devil with 
me. My work on this, the Kingaite side, is ended. I said to him 
I can not do the work I wanted to. * * * * 

" I must submit, hard as it is. "Why did not the fellow tell me 



-122 ABCTIC RESEAKCU EXPEDITION. 

this morning what he was intending to do ? A few of the In- 
nuits concert and act without saying one word to me. I will try 
and settle accounts with them when I get to the ship, especially 
with Koojesse. This I write in my note-book as I stand on this 
rocky, tide-washed island, in the midst of a snow-storm, every 
thing around closed from my view. Now the thickness lifts a 
little, I proceed to triangulate. Start 8 20 A.M. Eeally I never 
took such insolence from any white man, nor will I while I have 
a right arm to defend my honor, as I took from Koojesse when 
he told me a few moments ago that /could stop and go along 
down Kinraite side. * * * * He knows that I am in his 

O 

and his Innuit friends' power, and he uses it. * * * * But 
I am silent in words ; a thundering, however, is going on within. 
Its mutterings will be kept till I get to the ship, if I ever do. I 
must say that I believe my life is in danger; but God is with me 
here and every where. If I die at the hands of this treacherous 
people, I die in faith that I am in the performance of my duty. 
God deliver me from such scenes as I have witnessed among the 
men Innuits I have with me. Consultations, savage looks, are 
now and then to be seen. * * * * 

" The sooner I am back the better. There may be a time when 
I can again enter this bay to do the work for which I engaged my 
present company, but it will have to be with a company of civil- 
ized men. 

" Nine A.M., now crossing toward a long, high island that 
trends in the same direction as Ki-ki-tuk-ju-a (Frobisher's Far- 
thest). The head of Frobisher Bay not seen now, the sea or wa- 
ter of the bay to the northwest being the horizon. A remarkable 
sand or fossil mountain island, by Kingaite side, two miles off at 
our right, bearing W.N."W. by compass ; I can not determine its 
true character with 'spy.' A line of islands now seen that runs 
across Frobisher Bay from Frobisher's Farthest to Kingaite side. 
The trend I will determine soon, and make a record of it. 

" Snow-squall continued but four minutes. Very cloudy. Sun 
shining occasionally on the mountains each side of Frobisher Bay. 
* * * * Stop at meridian on an island after passing through 
a channel, the island of the group running from Frobisher's Far- 
thest to Kingaite, and here ascended a high hill to triangulate. 

«* # * * _^ s we came up the channel between the isl- 
ands that lie across the Bay of Frobisher, found the tide (which 
was ebbing) to run very swiftly. Made 'no headway for full half 



AN-KOO-TIXG. 423 

an hour, though under sail and oars. Through this channel the 
ebbing tide was running toward the head of Frobisher Bay — a 
curious feature, but accounted for by the position of the islands 
each side the channel." 

After spending half an hour on the island, we directed our 
course for the north side of the bay, which we made in one hour ; 
thence we coasted along toward Eae's Point, where we arrived at 
3 15 P.M., and made our nineteenth encampment at the place of 
our ninth. 

During the evening the Innuits fired many salutes, and there 
was clearly some demonstration making, though I could not tell 
whether it was to invite the good spirits or to repel the bad, of 
whose presence thereabouts I suppose the angeko had told them. 

It would seem from the shouts of men, women, and children, 
and the reports of the guns, as if the 4th of July had come again. 
Jack's wife kept up a kind of shouting and howling till past mid- 
night. After she had continued it for over two hours, with a voice 
that made the mountains about ring, Jack joined her, he being 
an angeko. At midnight there was a round of guns. Charley 
was in the same tupic as myself, having been asleep until the fir- 
ing aroused him. lie sprang up, and was but a moment in get- 
ting ready to join his people. Soon Jack, with his howling wife, 
came down from the hill where they were, and marched around, 
keeping up the same hideous noises — so loud and broken, that 
only throats of brass, and cracked ones too, could equal them. It 
was a miserable, sleepless night for me — in Bedlam, and racked 
with pains. 

A remarkable feature of the mountains of Kingaite is that the}' 
are covered with snow, while those on the opposite side of the 
bay, near the coast, are wholly destitute of it. On arriving at the 
latter from Kingaite I at once felt the great difference of temper- 
ature, it being much warmer. 

I may here mention, as another illustration of the peculiar cus- 
toms of the Innuits, that when they kill a reindeer, after skinning 
it, they proceed to cut off bits of different parts of the animal, and 
bury them under a sod, moss, stone, or whatever happens to be 
at the exact spot where the deer was shot. On two occasions I 
noticed this. Once they cut off a piece of the paunch, then a l>it 
of the nose, next a portion of the meat, skin, and fat, burying 
these portions together, as just described. I asked one of them if 
such a custom was always practised by the Innuits when tiny 



424 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

killed tuktoo, and the answer, given in a very serious tone, was 
that it had alwaj-s been so. 

On the previous day, when Charley killed the deer at our eight- 
eenth encampment, I noticed that, on its being skinned, there was 
a greenish appearance about the legs and lower parts of the body. 
This made me remark to Koojesse that I thought the tuktoo must 
have been sick. He said "no;" but that the peculiar look was 
from the deer's having been swimming much of late in the cold 
water of the bay, during his passage from point to point. 

The following da3 r , September 16th, we resumed our voyage, 
but could not get far, owing to severe stormy weather, which com- 
pelled us to make our twentieth encampment on Mary's Island,* 
on the west side, and at the entrance of the inlet which I crossed 
on the morning of August 19th {vide page 383). Here we were 
detained two days, and I was now so enfeebled by sickness that 
it was difficult for me even to write. The Inuuit women, particu- 
larly Tweroong, were very attentive to me, but the men seemed 
to consider my sufferings as of little importance. Their demoniac 
yells, during a continuation of the same kind of exorcisms al- 
ready described, were truly frightful, and to one sick as I was all 
but maddening. 

Fortunately, the next morning, September 18th, we were again 
under way on the homeward trip. A fair wind sent us rapidly 
along, and we passed our late encampments, as also many other 
places familiar to me from our visits when coming up. At one 
place — west side Waddell Bay — Koojesse and the other Innuits 
landed to go in chase of some deer seen in the distance. "We 
slowly followed in the boat, and came to a cove in the coast, where 
we saw them with a prize in hand. This deer — which made up 
the number thirty-nine now killed by my three hunters — was a 
very fine one, and in a short time we were all feasting on portions 
of its meat. "When this deer was opened, old Toolookaah, with 
his broad hand, scooped up the warm blood and drank it, to the 
cpaantity of nearly two quarts. I joined in the eating, and par- 
took of some toodnoo and marrow, the latter blood-warm, from 
the mashed bones of the tuktoo's legs. The most delicious part 
of the deer is the toodnoo or fat which is on the rump, and it is 
this part the Innuits first seek. After our feast, we packed up the 
remains and again started, arriving about dark at the place of our 

* So named by me, after one of the daughters of Augustus H. Ward, of Xew 
York City. Mary's Island is in lat. 63° 22' N., long. 67° 38' W. 



EXTKAOKDIXAKY SCENE. 425 

twenty-first encampment, on the south side of Tongue Cape — the 
same cape where we had our seventh. 

The following day, September 19th, we made good progress 
downward, with nothing particular to note except the following 
incident : 

Jack's wife, who was on board pulling at an oar, was suddenly 
taken with what I at first supposed to be a fit. She broke out 
into the wild singing which I have already spoken of as pertain- 
ing to the practice of ankooting. The scene at that moment in 
the boat was a strange one ; Jack was steering, Annuarping sat 
close wedged by my side, Ninguarping was between Suzhi and 
the angeko^-m, holding the little dog Xeitch-uk, two women were 
pulling at the oars, Koodloo sat upon a huge pile of skins at the 
bow, and the little boy reclined where best he could. They all 
started into immediate action the moment Jack's wife began her 
mystical song. As she sent forth her unmelodious voice — her 
lips sounding like so many fire-crackers on a 4th of July festival 
at home — one and then another of the Innuits took up a respon- 
sive chorus to her incantation. As she sang in this wild and sin- 
gular strain, her arms worked stronger at the oar, and she seemed 
as if suddenly possessed of a demoniac strength. There was a 
startling vehemence about her; and when the others joined in 
chorus, it was as though unearthly visitants had taken possession 
of them all. At night, when we again encamped, the strange cer- 
emonies were continued. Jack took up the preaching — if it can 
be so termed — while the women sang, and the men loudly re- 
sponded to their angeko. Thus it continued till a late hour, and, 
with intermissions, through the two following days. They seem- 
ed to regard it as a duty, somewhat as we hold sacred certain ob- 
servances on set occasions. 

September 20th and 21st were but a repetition of preceding 
days, presenting difficulties in getting the male Innuits to work as 
I wished, forcing mc to submit in almost every thing. Perhaps, 
had I been in robust health, I could have managed them better, 
but I was too sick and feeble to contend. Once, when Koojesse 
acted in direct opposition to my desires, I turned upon him, and in 
sharp tones insisted on his doing as I wished about the boat. I 
spoke firmly, and with a show of determination. It had some 
good effect lie steered in the direction I wanted to go, and v 
as friendly afterward as though no hard words had passed be- 
tween us. All this time the other Innuits continued at the oars, 



426 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

apparently as indifferent as though nothing was occurring; but I 
must confess that I myself did not feel quite easy in my mind as 
to the possible consequences. 

On the 20th we had a few minutes of excitement, which occur- 
red thus : Miner's party had made a landing before my boat could 
get up, and I shortly after saw Tweroong sitting upon the tide- 
washed rocks in such a position that I thought she must be search- 
ing for some lost article. By the time we effected our landing, 
every Innuit of the other party was gathered round her in great 
commotion, some of them trying to break off pieces of the rocks 
about. I asked Koojesse what all that hubbub meant. He said 
Tweroong had found gold! This word started me at once. I 
threw my cloak from my shoulders and leaped over the bow, 
landing on a sand-beach knee-deep in sea-water. I was followed 
by my whole crew, for I had communicated the yellow fever to 
them, and, bounding from rock to rock, we arrived at the desired 
spot. A huge, heavy " yellow boy" was soon in my hand. Gold, 
gold, indeed, was now in the list of my discoveries ! Ought I not 
to be satisfied, after all my trials and perplexities? But, on the 
first touch of my knife, I found that I had only fooVs gold, and I 
brought away but small specimens of this precious metal. 

A short distance from Gold Cove we made our twenty-third en- 
campment, on the south side of Jones's Cape, not far from the 
fourth encampment. At this place old Toolookaah and his wife 
left our party. He intended to remain at that spot until his son, 
who was with Sampson up an inlet near by, should return. I 
made him a present of matches and tobacco, and gave his wife two 
papers of needles. In parting with him I said, " Toolookaah, I 
may not see you again. Soon I shall go to my own country — 
America ; but I hope by-and-by to meet you in Kood-le-par-me- 
ung (heaven)." A tear started in his eye and trickled down his 
iron face as we pressed hands and said the final word, " Ter-hou- 
e-tie !" (farewell.) 

Our twenty-fourth encampment was made on an island called 
Oo-mer-nunsr, at the entrance of Wiswell's Inlet, and on the fol- 
lowing day, at 10 A.M., we were again under way for Niountclik, 
then only a few miles off. 

After landing upon Niountelik, and taking an observation of 
the sun at the spot where I had first discovered the coal, we pro- 
ceeded toward an island, on which, according to Innuit tradition, 
the kodlunas built a small ship amasuadlo (a great many) j'ears ago. 






IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES. 



427 



The heavens were cloudless, there was a fine breeze from the 
northwest, and the boat bounded along rapidly toward the isl- 
and. Around us was high land, white with its winter dress, and 
beneath, an immense forest of sea vegetation, over which we 
sailed. We soon reached the shore, and I immediately landed 
to examine the place as well as the short time at my disposal 
would permit. 

I soon came across an. excavation, which was probably the com- 
mencement of a mine dug by Frobisker, though the Innuits, judg- 
ing only from what they saw, called it a reservoir for fresh water, 
a quantity of which collected in it at certain seasons. This ex- 
cavation was at some distance from the ruins of the stone houses, 
and was eightj'-eigkt feet long and six feet deep. 

On the shore of the north side of the island I found also an ex- 
cavation which I called a ship's trench, for the Innuits said that 
was where a ship had been built by the white men. It had been 
dug out of stone, which was of such a nature as to yield to the 
persevering use of pickaxe, sledge-hammer, and the crowbar. 
The bottom of the trench, which was one hundred and ten feet in 
length, was an inclined plane, running from the surface of the 
ground to a depth of twenty-five feet at the water's edge. 




"NE OF FEOUIbllHU'H 0<»u> MlNt:^ i\\LLj:ii liV TUi: HATXTSB HUU-'s TBENCU. 

On the top of the island I found the ruins of a house, which had 
been built of stone, cemented together with lime and sand. The 
foundation still remained, and was of " lyme and stone." It was 
about twelve feet in diameter, and every portion of it was cover- 
ed with aged moss. From appearances, some of the stones had 
been turned over, as if done by Innuits seeking treasure. 

A few feet east of this house was ,a sort of stone breastwork, 



428 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

such as the natives erect for shelter when hunting, and also a pile 
of stones, which might have been made, as I thought, by Fro- 
bisher's men, to cover some memorial left by them when trying to 
escape in their ship. 

Much of the island was covered with shingle, and this, on the 
north side, was so compact, and of such even surface, that it re- 
minded me of the small cobble-stone pavements in cities. 

I collected as many relics from these ruins as we could possi- 
bly carry, and, with Koojesse, returned to the boat. On our way 
he said to me, 

" The .men who built the ship, and started with it, all died — 
died vrith the cold." 

I asked him how he knew this ; and he replied that " all the 
old Innuits said so." 

This agreed precisely with what old Ookijoxy Ninoo told me 
the previous winter in the oral history she then communicated to 
me, and I felt convinced that all the evidences before me could 
refer to no other than Frobisher's expedition, and the men left be- 
hind by that explorer. She said that the five men built a ship, 
and found so much ice that they could not proceed, and finally 
all froze to death. 

This island is generally called "Kod-lu-narn" because white men 
lived on it, and built stone houses, and also a ship. The ship was 
built for the object of escaping from this region. In the previ- 
ous winter, while passing on our way from the ship to Oopung- 
newing — an island three miles southwest from Kodlunarn — Koo- 
jesse had pointed out this latter island, and said that white men 
once built a ship there. I gave little heed to his statement at the 
time, because I knew that to build a ship such materials were re- 
quired as the regions thereabout were quite destitute of. But 
when I heard the history of Ookijoxy Ninoo, I saw at once the 
probability there was that Koojesse was right. 

From what I saw that day, I was fully convinced that many, 
very many years ago, men of civilization did live upon the island 
called by the Innuits Kodlunarn, and that they did build a vessel 
— probably a schooner— there. 

The evidence was contained in the following objects which I 
saw around me, viz. : 

Coal ; flint-stone ; fragments of tile, glass, and pottery ; an exca- 
vation which I have called an abandoned mine ; a trench by the 
shore on an inclined plane, such as is used in building a ship on 



A EELIC OF TIIEEE CENTUEIES. 429 

the stocks; the ruins of three stone houses, one of which was 
twelve feet in diameter, with palpable evidence of its having been 
erected on a foundation of stone cemented together with lime and 
sand ; and some chips of wood which I found on digging at the 
base of the ship's trench. 

Upon this evidence, then — coupled with Esquimaux tradition, 
as given to me by several persons apart from each other, and at 
different times — I founded my opinions respecting Frobisher's ex- 
pedition, as I have already stated them. 

It was night before we left the island, darkness alone ending 
the search. "We had to row back, the native crew pulling cheer- 
fully as we bounded along. The lights of the tupics on Nioun- 
telik were my beacon ahead, and above were the glorious stars in 
all their beauty, while the silvery moon was rising from behind 
the mountains of Tikkoon. The time seemed long since all had 
appeared so fair to me as then ; and when we arrived at the tents, 
I went to my rest truly thankful at having been permitted to ac- 
complish what I had that day been enabled to do. 

The following morning, September 23d, I continued my re- 
searches in this interesting sound, leaving Niountelik at 8 A.M. 
There was a strong head wind, but my crew were good at the 
oars, and away we went merrily toward the main land beyond 
Kodlunarn. As we passed across the bay, my heart was greatly 
elated at the thought of what I was then accomplishing. A glance 
at the red, white, and blue cheered me onward in the work of 
ripping up the mysteries of three centuries. That symbol was 
my constant, cheering, helping companion night and day. 

In about an hour we arrived at the cape of land called Tikkoon, 
and, upon landing, I proceeded to a small plain about a quarter 
of a mile from the cape. The Innuits went on before me, I hav- 
ing my compass and tripod in hand to take bearings. All at 
once — to quote from my diary — 

'• My attention was drawn to the extreme of the plain, facing 
Kodlunarn, by the beach, where I saw Koo-ter-&ni r I Miner) call- 
ing by shouts to the other Innuits and myself, holding up his 
arms and hands. The Innuits started on a run, and so did I. for 
I was sure something of interest had been found. Arriving at 
the spot, what was before me? A relic of three centuries! Iron 
— time-eaten, with ragged teeth ! 

"This iron, weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds, was on the 
top of a granite rock, just within reach of high tide at full and 



430 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

change of moon. The iron stain from this specimen vras in the 
rock ; otherwise its top was cleanly washed. 

" This was just what I wanted to find — some of the heavy stone 
which the venerable Innuit woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo, had told me 
about the previous winter. Of course my heart was a happy one 
in finding this iron, brought here only eighty-six years after the 
discovery of America by Columbus. 

" The Innuit circles of stones at Tikkoon, indicating this to be 
a. place for the summer residences of the Innuits, were very nu- 
merous. I know not where I have seen more numerous signs of 
Innuits than on the plain a little distant from the cape. Between 
the plain and the extremity of the cape the usual rough old rocks 
are the nature of the land. The north side is flanked by high, 
bold mountains, a bay extending back for a mile or so on the 
west side. On the east side extends the bay, one branch of which 
leads toward Field Bay. The /plain extends across the cape 
from one bay to the other, the distance being less than one eighth 
of a mile. The "heavy stone"»was found at the coast edge fac- 
ing Kodlunarn, which island is about half a mile off. Bones 
of ducks, tuktoo, walrus, and whale were numerous all around. 
Some were very old, being nearly overgrown with grass and 
moss. I doubt not, two or three centuries old were some of these 
remains." 

On leaving Tikkoon the wind was strong from the northeast, 
and it soon increased to a gale. Kooterenier (Miner) was my 
boat-s'teerer, and well he performed his task in passing several 
dangerous places where heavy gusts came rushing down the ra- 
vines or over the abrupt mountains. Our boat shipped much 
■water, the mad waves frequently flying over us. Once a sharp 
gust caught us while under sail, and instantly sent the boat on- 
ward toward a dangerous reef of rocks on our lee. In a moment 
sail was down, oars out, and all hands pulling strong and rapidly 
to clear the danger. Fortunately, a few moments of hard work 
carried us free, and we soon after reached Cape Ood-ho-ong and 
lauded. 

Here I took a few compass bearings, and walked about to ex- 
amine the spot. Many relics of Innuits were seen here. After 
remaining there an hour we again started, and proceeded up Vic- 
toria Bay, keeping well inshore for smoother water. The scenery 
was magnificent. Stupendous cliffs rose up almost perpendicular 
from the water's edge, and mountains towered high above me, the 



A MOUNTAIN CAVE. 



431 




IIHAT IN A 6TOP.M. 



sides of some crumbling as if from age and the work of winters 
freezing power. One precipitous mountain, about half way up 
the bay, had the whole side of it torn from summit to base, and 
cast down. 

As we approached this mountain my eye caught sight of a cave. 
I landed to examine it, and the moment I set foot on shore I was 
struck with amazement at the huge rocks, high up and overhang- 
ing my head, seemingly ready to totter and fall. The cave was 
one of those made by the action of ice in winter and the sea and 
sun in summer. The ice had rent the rocks and fastened upon 
them; the sun, with its heat, and the wind, with its power, then 
went to work, tearing up the frozen masses of ice, and forcing out 
the rocks, thus leaving the mountain partly disemboweled, as I 



432 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

found it. By measurement, the cave was fifty feet long, by a width, 
of ten feet, and a height of fifteen to twenty feet at the entrance. 
The strata of rocks were perpendicular. The sides, however, were 
not as rough and jagged as were the roof and base. Icicles, long, 
numerous, and large, hung from the top, giving an air of enchant- 
ment to the scene. 

Eeturning to the boat, we resumed our hard labor at the oars, 
the wind being right ahead. We had not proceeded far before 
Koojesse sighted a seal floating a little distance off on our right. 
He instantly prepared for a shot, and stood up in the bow of the 
boat ready to fire. In another moment, and within twenty-five 
feet of the seal, crack went the rifle. A floundering commenced, 
the boat was in an instant alongside of the prey, and Koojesse 
laid hold of his prize with both hands, the other Innuits imme- 
diately aiding him. I shall not soon forget that scene. A line 
was thrown around the seal's flippers, but the animal was still 
alive, and struggled so much that all the power we had could 
hardly get it into the boat. As it was drawn up, the dying seal 
glanced around and upon us with its plaintive eyes, and its inno- 
cent-looking face seemed to plead for mercy, as though it were 
human. I actually felt a shudder creeping over me as it looked 
at us; but, on the instant, a knife in the hands of Kooperneung 
was buried deep in it. Another struggle, and the poor seal lay 
'dead. Koojesse told me that occasionally, on a windy day, seals 
will thus float upon the surface of the water for the sake of hav- 
ing the wind blow on their backs. 

A little later we landed at Ek-ke-le-zhun, a point of interest 
and importance to me. This place is a tongue of land which juts 
out nearly half across the bay, and serves to form above it one of 
the safest and finest harbors I ever saw. The scenery around is 
grand and impressive, and I saw enough to convince me that it is 
a most desirable spot for a vessel to anchor in. 

"While the Innuits were feasting on the seal I took a walk upon 
the shore. All the land above high-water mark was covered with 
snow ; but, looking attentively on the ground, to my delight I dis- 
covered a small, thin lamina of coal. On the clay we left Oopung- 
ncwing (August 13th), on our voyage up Frobisner Bay, Koojesse 
told me that he knew of a place not far off, up a bay, where there 
was a great deal more of the coal such as I had found at Nioun- 
telik. My experience, now narrated, shows both that Koojesse 
was honest in his statement, and also — which is a point of great 



ANOTHER COAL DEPOSITE. 433 

importance — that the Esquimaux traditionary history, extending 
back for centuries, is wonderfully accurate. 

Imbedded in the rocks I also found some heavy black sub- 
stances, larger and more numerous than any I had before seen. 
These I concluded might be the " stone like to sea-coal" described 
by 1'iobisher in the account of his voyages. I secured some spec- 
imens, which I brought home with me. 

But I was not content with the hasty examination thus made. 
After returning to the boat and lunching on raw seal, I renewed 
my search, in company with Koojesse and Kooperueung. Soon, 
by digging under the snow, coal was found in considerable quan- 
tities, and also a little pile of flint-stones similar to those discov- 
ered in the coal at Niountelik, and in the cement of the stone- 
house ruins at Kodlunarn. 

My feelings were so buoyant and excited at this discovery, and 
the proof it furnished to my mind that Frobishcr had been there, 
that I could hardly contain myself. But my excitement was con- 
ably increased when Miner, from the top of the highest part 
of the tongue of land, raised a shout and said he had found more. 
We rushed toward him, and lo ! more and more was indeed found. 
There was a large space clear of snow, and covered with coal to 
the amount, I thought, of some five tons. I was perfectly as- 
tounded. But I could not lose time. I therefore at once com- 
menced an inspection of the heap, and soon found a large chip im- 
bedded in the coal. This chip, my companion declared, was nev- 
er the work of an Innuit knife. It had the appearance of having 
been chopped out of a large piece of oak timber with an axe. I 
dug down fifteen inches into the coal before coming to any earth. 
The Innuits willingly assisted me, and, as at Niountelik and Kod- 
lunarn, every thing they found was apparently passed to me. I 
discovered, however, that they pocketed some of the best speci- 
mens of the flint-stones, and I had eventually to resort lo diplo- 
macy in order to recover them. 

Leaving the main pile, I dug in other places through the snow, 
and found coal extending over a wide area. There could be no 
doubt that a large deposit was made here, and I could arrive at 
no other conclusion — from the evidences of the age of the coal, in 
the mosses and other signs upon it — than that this was dour by 
Frobishcr. I filled a keg with specimens of the coal, the moss, 
and the lichens, to bring home, and just as I then packed it, so it 

Ee 



434 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

appeared when opened in the presence of many persons here aft- 
er my return. 

Night was now fast approaching, and I could stay no longer. 
The Innuits had descended to the boat before I could tear my- 
self away from the interesting spot ; and long after we left, and 
while we were running rapidly out of the bay under a favoring 
breeze, did I keep my gaze fixed and my thoughts centred upon 
it. 

Our course back was directly across Countess of Warwick's 
Sound to Niountelik. The wind was strong and in our favor, so 
that we made rapid progress, and in good time reached the island. 
But the surf was too high for landing on the weather-side. Ac- 
cordingly, we went round into the same bight where I landed on 
the memorable day of my first discovering the coal here. 

It was dark when we arrived, and there was much difficulty in 
getting every thing up the abrupt bank flanking the place of land- 
ing. My own labor was severe, especially in my then weak state. 
Many were the struggles I made to carry up safely the chronom- 
eter and other important articles. Two hours were occupied in 
doing this, and in getting up the boat above high water; but at 
length all was accomplished, and we arrived at the tupics at a late 
hour, wearied beyond measure with our exertions. 

This time no hot coffee or tea awaited me, as heretofore, when 
Suzhi attended to the matter. My supper was ice-water and mo- 
lasses, with bread soaked in it, and some dried venison — a poor 
diet to a cold and enfeebled system. 



ANOTHER COAL DEPOSITE. 435 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

A Storm. — Detained at Niountelik. — Examine the Island. — Another Deposit of 
Coal found. — Specimens collected. — Revisit Kodlunam. — Minute Inspection. — 
More Relics found of Frobisher's Expedition. — A large Piece of Iron. — The 
" Ship's Trench." — Depart on return to Ship. — Twenty-sixth Encampment. — 
Revisit the Whaling De'pot. — Passage through Bear Sound. — Twenty-seventh and 
last Encampment by Lupton Channel. — Innuit Deposits of Food. — Good Faith 
and Honesty of the Natives toward each other.— Avoidance of the "Dreaded 
Land." — Last Day's Journey. — Arrive near Parker's Bay. — Anxiety and Excite- 
ment as to the Ship. — Gain Sight of her. — Arrival on Board. — All well! 

On Tuesday, September 24th, 1861, a snow-storm from the 
northeast was upon us. This delighted me, for it made a stay 
of another day necessary, impatient as the Innuits were to get 
back to the ship. After breakfast, enveloped in my cloak, I saun- 
tered out, determining to give Niountelik a good look. I first 
proceeded through snow and furious wind to the opposite side of 
the island, but found nothing worthy of note in my walk there. 
On my way back, however, by the beach east of the tupics, I found 
several pieces of coal in the sand, and up a gully much more, with 
some flint-stone. A little farther on I suddenly encountered an- 
other deposit of coal, No. 2 of Niountelik, on the bank, by a cove 
with a sandy beach, a short distance east of where I had found 
the first deposit some months before. 

At this moment the Innuits came round with the boats, and 
landed in the cove ; and the idea immediately struck me that this 
was the identical landing-place of Frobisher in 1578 ! The coal- 
bed was within thirty feet of high-water mark. Its depth, in the 
thickest part, was six inches. It was nearly overgrown with 
grasses, shrubs, and mosses; and some of it was washed down 
into the sand and shingle of the beach. The flint-stones were 
numerous, and of the same character as in the two other lots found. 
Having made a very thorough examination here, I looked else- 
where over the island. Eelics of Innuits were in all directions, 
but especially on the eastern slope ; and some small pieces of 
drift-wood, overgrown with grass, were met with and secured. 
After going to the camp for a scal-spcar, I succeeded — by dint 



436 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

of great exertion and perseverance, digging through the frozen 
ground — in obtaining several good specimens of the coal inter- 
locked with moss, grass, and shrubs. 

The weather was not jDropitious on the morning of September 
25th, but the Innuits were anxious to get away, and I had to sub- 
mit. While the boat was being prepared, I went to the highest 
part of the island and took some bearings by compass, and carried 
with me, on my return to the boat, more coal and other relics to 
take home. Miner and his crew were not ready, owing to some 
of their dogs being missing ; but I hurried off, hoping to induce 
my companions to stop once more at Kodlunarn on the way. 

This I was fortunately able to do. I concluded an arrange- 
ment with them to stay there for a short time, for which favor I 
had to give to Koojesse five boxes of percussion caps, Koodloo 
two, and Charley two. I could not leave this locality without, if 
possible, making another examination of the " "White Man's Isl- 
and." Moreover, I wanted additional relics from the stone house : 
and, also, to take some measurements and bearings. According- 
ly, after leaving Mountelik, our course was taken direct to Kod- 
lunarn Island, where we landed at the same place as before, and 
I at once began to examine this interesting locality. I made a 
very close and minute inspection, taking measurements of dis- 
tances, so as to be quite sure of the data from which my deduc- 
tions could be drawn. Eough outline sketches were also made 
on the spot, and every thing was done to insure correctness in my 
notes and observations. The plan of the island, which is incor- 
porated in the chart accompanying this volume, will better serve 
to convey the general facts to the reader than the most labored 
description with the pen. 

The result of this, my second examination of Kodlunarn, 
brought to light new facts in connection with the past. A piece 
of iron, semi-spherical in shape, weighing twenty pounds, was dis- 
covered under the stone that had been excavated for the "ship's 
way," and many other small pieces were also found at the head 
of the trench. Fragments of tile were found all over the island, 
and numerous other relics, indicating that civibzed men had visit- 
ed the place very many years ago. 

The large piece of iron was found in the following manner: 
Koojesse and I had been examining the "ship's trench" to see 
how high up in it the tide at full and change rose, and then, leav- 
ing him to search for relics, I ascended the eastern bank, and walk- 



FROBBHEB IRON. 437 

ed along it to the blnll" facing the sea. As I looked down to the 
base of the tongue on which I stood, I saw, wedged in between 
two rocks, what appeared to be a stick of timber, about two feet 
long and six inches square, very old in appearance. I called to 
Koojesse, and directed him to examine it, as, from where I stood, 
- some twenty-five feet perpendicular to the bottom ; he hast- 
ened down and around, and, on arriving at the supposed relic of 
wood, said it was a stone. I was surprised and disappointed, and 
then proceeded with my occupation of pacing off the trench. In 
half a minute I heard Koojesse shout " Shev-eye-un /" (iron.) I 
turned round, and saw that he had boldly mounted the steep bank 
beneath me, using the sharp rocks as stepping-stones, and had his 
hand resting on a piece of rusty iron just protruding from the 
debris of stone that had been dug out of the trench, and thrown 
up, making a bank. Koojesse continued shouting " Iron 1 big 

iron ! Can't stir him !" 

I was soon on the spot, though 
at considerable risk, and trying 
to disengage the iron, but I could 
not move it. After digging 
around it, however, a few strong 
pulls started it. The rust of 
(An iron relic of 15T8.) three centuries had firmly ce- 

mented it to the sand and stones in which it had lain. 

This piece of iron* was of the same character as that found at 
Tikkoon, less than one mile from Kodlunarn, and also as that ob- 
tained on " Look-out" Island, Field Bay ; and the origin of it, as 
well as its significance, may be gathered from the following facts : 
Of the one hundred men sent out from England with Frobisher 
in 1578, the majority were " miners," sent for the express purpose 
of digging for the rich ore of which Frobisher had carried speci- 
mens home on his return from his second voyage, and which was 
supposed to be very valuable. The miners made "proofs," as 
they are called, in various parts of the regions discovered by him. 
Some of these "proofs" are doubtless what I found, and they fur- 
nish clear evidence, in connection with other circumstances noted 
in the course of this narrative, that I was, when at Kodlunarn, on 
the precise spot of Frobishcr's " Countess of "Warwick's Mine." 

* The same, together with a case of some of the other Frobisher relics which I 
discovered and brought home, I sent to the British government early in the year 
18G3, through the Royal Geographical Society of London. 




OtH "r FKOISISUEE'S GOLD u PEOOF8. 



43S 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



Delighted with my discoveries, and gathering up as many relics 
as I could carry, placing them in my old stockings, mittens, hat. 




FEOB16UEP. RELICS LN MY OLD STOCKINGS. 



and every thing that would hold them securely, I labeled each 
article, and rejoined the boat, immediately afterward departing on 
our way for "home." That the reader may know the feelings 
with which I left this portion of my work, I here make a brief ex- 
tract from my diary, hastily written on the spot : 

"As I had my hand upon the iron relic after having unearth- 
ed it and seen what it was, like a flash the whole of the circum- 
stances flew across my mind — my determination before starting to 
induce my native crew to stop with me at Kodlunarn ; the propo- 
sal while making the transit from Niountelik to Kodlunarn ; their 
willing acceptance ; the search, and finding of interesting relics : 
my calling to Koojesse; his response; his descending to look at 
what I thought to be wood ; its proving to be a stone ; Koojesse's 
mounting by an unexpected and venturesome way, thus finding 
the iron relic where it had lain undisturbed for three centuries ; 
God blessing me in making me the instrument in determining 
the exact facts of what has remained a mystery to the civilized 
world for so long. Now it will be known throughout all the en- 
lightened nations of the earth where Frobisher did attempt to es- 
tablish the colony which Queen Elizabeth sent here in 1578." 

That night we reached the termination of the high land below 
SharJco, and encamped* till the next morning. 

Our passage on September 26th was made with some difficulty, 
owing to the heavy sea that prevailed. A moderate gale, or even 
* Our twenty-sixth encampment was in lat. C2° 38' N., long. 05° 02' W. 






INKUIT HONESTY. 439 

a fresh breeze from certain directions, causes a dangerous sea for 
boats running between Countess of Warwick's Sound and Bear 
Sound, a fact we proved by personal experience. On arriving at 
the old whaling depot, Cape True, I landed and went to Flagstaff 
Hill. There was still enough remaining to show where the ship's 
company had lived so long : the tattered remnants of a flag, some 
boards, a dismantled table, an old cooking -stove, with broken- 
down walls around it, oil-casks covered with sods, some rope and 
ice-gear, with the usual indications of Innuit tent life, met mj 7 
view; but it was solitary as compared with the life and anima- 
tion displayed when I was there only a few months before. Slow- 
ly I turned my steps away from this place, where I had spent so 
many happy hours ; and I could not help saying to myself, " Shall 
I ever again behold it? God only knows!" 

We stopped at Cape True nearly an hour, and then pursued 
our way through Bear Sound. On arriving at the next place of 
encampment, the last before reaching the harbor where I had left 
the ship, the Innuits informed me that it was called Shar-ioe-wik- 
toe, from a natural breakwater of thin or plate stone, the native 
word meaning " thin flat stone." It is on a tongue of land near- 
ly surrounded by water, on the west side of Lupton Channel, 
within a mile of Field Bay, and has a beautiful little boat-harbor. 
.A few moments after landing, some of the Innuits found the re- 
mains of recent encampments »f their people. On examination, 
we discovered that several tupics had been there, and it was con- 
cluded that Annawa, Artarkparu, and other families had made 
this their resting-place on the way from where we had met them 
up Frobisher Bay to Field Bay. At this place I found some de- 
posits of seal and walrus, evidently freshly made by the party 
preceding us ; and here I noticed an instance of honesty and 
good faith which deserves mention : 

These deposits were beneath piles of stone, with a stick run- 
ning up obliquely from each, so that if the ground should be cov- 
ered with snow, the place might be easily found. The Innuits 
with me noticed all this, and saw the meat thus deposited, yet not 
one would touch a morsel of it. They knew it belonged to others. 
and therefore it was sacred in their eyes, unless in case of actual 
extremity. 

From the present (27th and last) encampment our first one on 
the outward trip was not far distant — about a mile off — and on the 
opposite side of the channel was Lok's Land, the " dreaded land." 



4^0 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

I made some inquiries about it, but not one of my companions 
could give me any information, though only about a mile distant. 
They' never had been there, and, as they said, "never would." 

On the morning of Friday, September 27th, I mentally arranged 
a plan for getting from my Innuits all the flint-stone relics they 
had pocketed when making my researches in the coal deposits 
found at Niountelik and up Victoria Bay. I began my opera- 
tions by feasting all my crew. I got Koojesse to make an abun- 
dant soup of pemmican and meat-biscuit for them all. After 
they had eaten this I gave to each a dish of hot coffee and hands 
full of sea-biscuit. I was particularly conversational and cheerful 
with all ; carried hot coffee and bread to " Miner" and his wife, 
and gave bread also to such others of his company as I knew to 
possess the relics I sought. Then I told Koojesse that, if he had 
any of the " flint-stones," I would give him some boxes of jDercus- 
sion caps when I got to the vessel if he would give them all to 
me. I told him, moreover, that I wanted him to assist me in in- 
ducing all the others to do the same, promising on my part to 
give Kooperneung and Koodloo the same reward I offered him, 
and to give to the nulianas of himself and Kooperneung, and to 
Suzhi, beads for all they had. My strategy worked like a charm ; 
the relics came in by scores, each bringing me a quantity that 
surprised me, for I had not thought my company so largely de- 
ceitful. When I had obtained frtom my immediate crew all they 
held, I took Koojesse with me to "Miner's" company, and made 
an important addition to my stock there. The Innuits had se- 
creted these flint-stones for their own use in " striking fire." 

We soon after started on our way, and made good progress up 
Field Bay, arriving near Parker's Bay toward evening. There 
we heard the report of fire-arms from the shore, and saw tupics 
near the beach. My party immediately responded, and desired 
that we should land ; but as we were now only about seven miles 
from the spot where I expected to find the ship, I refused permis- 
sion. The usual opposition and sulky demeanor then followed. 
The men would not work, and the women, though willing, had to 
do as their masters told them. Night was approaching, and the 
cold was becoming severe ; still, I felt it would be much better 
to go on and ascertain if the ship were really there than to en- 
camp for another night. Accordingly, I tried every argument 
and persuasion to induce Koojesse and the others to persevere, 
finally succeeding after much sulkiness on their part. 



ARRIVAL ON BOARD. 441 

And now I was full of excitement as we neared the place 
where we expected to find the ship; but darkness came over us 
before we got across the bay, and I became very anxious lor our 
safety among the shoals, of which there were many about. Hap- 
pily we escaped serious peril, and on reaching the point of land to 
be rounded before entering the harbor, danger was lost in the gen- 
eral excitement. We looked eagerly and often for a sight of the 
ship. Presently a dark mass loomed up before us. A few more 
strokes of the oars, and all doubt was removed. The George Hen- 
ry was in sight ! 

As soon as the vessel was seen, my Innuit crew, unable to re- 
press their joy, fired their guns and sent forth loud shouts' and 
cheers, in which I could not help joining, overjoyed to find the 
ship not yet departed. The watch on deck was at first in doubt 
what to make of the noise, but a second thought told him that I 
had returned with my party, and, giving a shout in reply, he 
rushed to inform Captain B of our approach. 

In a few minutes more I was alongside, and saw the captain, 
with all hands, ready to greet me. Quickly I ascended the ship's 
side, and was receiving the captain's warm grasp and the hearty 
welcome of all around me. I found that every one on board and 
most of the Innuits around had given us up, concluding that we 
were lost. It was supposed that our boat could never stand the 
trip for so long a time, so that when we returned in safety it was 
almost as if the dead had come to life. A hot supper was at once 
prepared for the whole party of us, and, meanwhile, numerous 
questions and answers passed. My first question was, "How 
many whales secured?" and I was surprised to receive the reply, 
"Not one." 

Until near midnight Captain B and myself prolonged our 

talk in the little after-cabin, and then, when I did retire, it was 
impossible to sleep, owing to the great change from the free, cool 
air of the tupics to that of the stove-heated ship. Fifty days and 
forty-nine nights I had been without anv fire to warm me save 
that which burns within the human sj'stem. For many days be- 
fore getting back to the ship the mountain streams had been fast 
bound in chains of ice, yet, as a general rule, and excepting the 
time during my recent sickness, I had always slept well. Now, 
however, I could not sleep, and was restless and disturbed through 
the whole night. 



442 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Visit the friendly Natives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — A Surprise. — Birth of a 
Son. — Artarkparu's Information. — More concerning Frobisher's Expedition. — A 
great Number of Innuits around the Ship. — They all concur in the traditionary 
History given to me. — Author's Anxiety to renew his Discoveries. — Another Boat- 
trip. — Cross the Bay to Chapell Inlet. — Camp for the Night. — Continue the Voy- 
age. — Bad Weather. — Heavy Gale. — Encamp once more. — Visit an Innuit Depot 
of Food. — A severe Hurricane. — Boat-voyage abandoned. — Return to the Ship. — 
Capture of two Whales. — A Man dangerously hurt by a Whale. 

On the following morning, Saturday, September 28th, 1861, at 
an early hour, I was on deck, finding every one astir, getting ready 
for the customary cruise after whales. The ship's company gen- 
erally started at daybreak to try their luck, and thej were sadly 
disappointed with the result hitherto. On inquiry, I found that 
some of my Innuit friends were still in the neighborhood, and, 
after breakfast, I went on shore to visit them. I may here state 
that, on my return, I found the vessel at the same anchorage — in 
George Henry's Harbor* — as it was when I left it on August 9th. 

The first call I wished to make was at Ebierbing's tupic, which 
was pointed out to me at no great distance. I entered without 
"ringing," and found "Jennie" — Koodloo's wife — there to wel- 
come me, as she did with unmistakable pleasure. On inquiring 
for Tookoolito and Ebierbing — whom I considered almost as 
adopted children — I found that I had entered the wrong tent, 
Ebierbing's tupic being next door, and thither I soon made my 
way. 

As I entered the tupic of Ebierbing I caught a mere glimpse 
of a woman's face, which I had hardly time to recognize as be- 
longing to Tookoolito. She gave me one look, and then the face 
I beheld was buried in hands trembling with excitement. It was. 
indeed, Tookoolito, overwhelmed with tears on seeing me again. 
The tears sprang to my eyes also as I saw this evidence of strong 
attachment. It was some time before the silence of the tupic was 

* Thus named after the barque Grorcjc, Henry. This harbor is in lat. C2° .":!' N.. 
long. G4° 48' 15" W., and is at the south extreme of the longest island of Field Bay, 
not far from the termination of said bav. 



TOOKOOLITO. 443 

broken by voices. She and her husband, in common with all the 
other Innuits and white men, had never expected to see me again. 
She had often ascended a hill, near by and overlooking the bay, 
to search the horizon for my returning boat, but had as often come 
down disappointed. 

In the midst of our talk I was startled by the plaintive cry of 
an infant, and, turning back a corner of the ample tuktoo furs 
with which Tookoolito was wrapped, I found a boy only twenty- 
four da}'s of age, her only child ! 

Tookoolito told me she had been very ill, and had nearly died 
during her confinement. I was about to leave the tupic, having 
spent a very pleasant hour with my friend, when she drew toward 
her a bag, from which she took two pair of nether garments — 
kod-lings — which she had made for me before her sickness. One 
pair was made of kus-se-gear (black sealskin and fur), a beautiful 
mottled material ; the other pair was of the common seal, made 
in the Innuit fashion, the former being made in the style of civ- 
ilization. She also gave me three specimens of her netting or 
crochet-work, made especially for me to take home to America. 
They were table-mats, and beautiful specimens of a skillful hand. 
But I had not yet reached the depths of her generosity ; she next 
presented to me a pair of sealskin socks, and a pair of meituk 
socks (made of the skins of cider ducks with the feathers on), 
saying, at the same time, that she had the material at hand, and 
would soon have ready for me a pair of winter boots — kumings. 

I told her she was doiDg too much for me. "Nay, nay," was 
her response, "I can not do half so much as I ought for one who 
has been so kind to us." As I was leaving the tupic she said, "I 
was so glad when I heard last night that you had got back in 
safety that I could not sleep ; I lay thinking of it all the night. 
I feel very happy now. My wivga thought you lost too ; and 
now he also is happy." 

In the afternoon old Artarkparu visited me. lie had arrived, 
with his company, from up Frobisher Bay a little before my re- 
turn, and I now gladly conversed with him, through Koojesse as 
interpreter, about the pieces of iron I had obtained at Tikkoon 
and Kodlunarn. I asked him if he had ever seen them before, 
and he replied, " No, not those, but one much larger.'" Pic then 
made a circular motion with his hand over and around the piece 
of iron I had placed on the table, and, according to this, that 
which he had seen must have been five times as large. He add- 



444 ARCTIC HESKAKCH EXPEDITION. 

eel to his remark that a very strong Innuit could just lift it, and 
there were very few who were able to do so. This piece of metal 
was, as he explained, on the southwest side of Oopungnewing Isl- 
and, just above high-water mark. He had seen it six years be- 
fore, but not since. The metal was "soft" and "smooth," not 
" hard" like the pieces I had before me. 

Ebierbing, visiting me that day in our little after-cabin, was 
conversing with me, and speaking of his sickness and recovery — 
of the critical state in which his nuliana lay for several days suc- 
ceeding the birth of their child — of the loss of his very valuable 
seal and sledge dog "Smile," and another of his dogs. lie said 
farther, " We thankful that still live and able to work. Lose our 
dogs; sick and unable to go tuktooing; no tuktoo skins for win- 
ter ; never mind ; we alive and together ; got fine boy, and are 
happy." I thought this was indeed akin to Christian philosophy, 
deserving respect and admiration. 

Annawa and his wife Nood-loo-yong visited me on the morning 
of September 30th, and I showed them the relics I had obtained. 
They at once recognized them as coming from the places I had 
examined. These people had spent most of their days round the 
waters of Frobisher Bay, and especially on the islands Oopungne- 
wing and Niountelik. The portion of brick which I had found 
the previous winter, when transferring my things from one sledge 
to the other, opposite Niountelik, was unknown to them in so 
large a form; but they had often seen smaller pieces, and also 
coal, in each of the places where I had discovered it. They had 
likewise found "heavy stone," such as I showed- them at Kus-se- 
gear-ark-ju-a, a cape half a mile N.N.W. of Kodlunarn. 

I asked them where these things came from, and the reply was, 
"Kodlunas brought them." I immediately said, "Did you see 
those kodlunas?" Their answer, with eyes wide open and coun- 
tenances expressing surprise, was, "Ar-gi! ar-gi/" meaning No! 
no! 

"How, then," said I, "do you know that kodlunas brought 
them?" 

Their response was, "All the old Innuits said so. The first In- 
nuits who saw the white men were all dead, many, a great many 
years ago." 

The more I searched into this subject the more I found it to be 
well known, as a traditionary fact, that white men — kodlunas — 
once lived on the island then and since called by the Innuits Kod- 



BLIND GEORGE'S STOUY. 445 

lunarn ; that these men had built a ship there ; had launched it, 
and started away for their homes ; but that, before they got out 
of the bay, hands and feet were frozen, and finally the whole of 
them perished of cold. Ebierbiug's statement to me was as fol- 
lows: 

Eccollects hearing his father tell of these white men, and how 
they built a ship. The kodlunas had brought brick, coal, and 
"heavy stone," and left them on Niountelik and at other places 
about there. His father did not see them, but the first Innuits, 
who saw them, told other Innuits so, and so it continued to his 
day. Old Innuits tell young Innuits ; and when they get to be 
old, they in turn tell it to the young. " When our baby boy," 
said he, " gets old enough, we tell him all about you, and about 
all those kodlunas who brought brick, iron, and coal to where you 
have been, and of the kodlunas who built a ship on Kodlunarn 
Island. "When boy gets to be an old Innuit he tell it to other In- 
nuits, and so all Innuits will know what we now know." 

Thus, by the simple, unadorned statement of Ebierbing may be 
known how it is that oral history is preserved among the Innuit 
people of the North. 

On the day following this conversation, several old Innuits ar- 
rived from different places ; among them were TJgarng, with his 
two wives and child; "Bob," his wife "Polly," and children; 
"Johnny Bull" and Kokerzhun, and Blind George, with his dar- 
ling girl Kookooyer. Ugarng had left his mother, old Ookijoxy 
Xinoo, at Cornelius Grinnell Bay, so that I was unable to obtain 
from her any additional information concerning the relics I had 
found; but the others all confirmed the story already given to me 
about the white men, and what they had left behind. 

The testimony of Blind George was particularly interesting, 
from the circumstances under which he gave it. Being unable to 
see, he by signs and motions mapped out the position of various 
places in Countess of Warwick's Sound, where these tilings had 
been noticed by him before losing his sight. Placing bis hand 
on his own person, he said, " Oopungnewing;" then placing it on a 
corner of a sea-chest in the main cabin, where we were, he contin- 
ued, " Niountelik ;" then pointing with his finger to a spot on the 
tabl »-a;" to another, "Kodlunarn;" to an- 

other, "Tikkoon." Before he could place all to satisfy him, he 
went back and repeated his steps frequently, at last accomplish- 
ing the geographical feat satisfactorily to himself and quite to my 



.J-iG ARCTIC RESEARCII EXPEDITION. 

gratification. He also identified the specimen of " heavy stone'' 
I placed in his lap by lifting it up and touching his lips to it ; he 
felt its indentations and roughness, weighed it in his hand, and 
said "all same" as he once saw at Kodlunarn. He then, without 
any leading questions, described the trenches made by the white 
men ; and his testimony was confirmed by Tweroong, who also 
added that old Iunuits said the ship was built from wood left on 
the island for an igloo — a word applied not only to their own 
snow-houses, but to the dwellings of civilized men generally. 

The information thus obtained, though satisfactory, still made 
me desirous for more ; and as at that time the number of Innuits 
in the neighborhood could not have been less than a hundred, I 
thought it an excellent opportunity for procuring what I sought. 
Accordingly, I sent to some of their tupics, and getting Tookoo- 
lito to be my interpreter, asked a number of questions, the an- 
swers to which perfectly satisfied me with regard to the main facts 
concerning Frobisher's expedition and the fate of his men. 

The result of all the information thus obtained convinced me, 
however, of the necessity for another and longer examination of 
the locality possessing so much interest as regarded this subject. 
Therefore I again prepared for another trip, and on Monday, Oc- 
tober 7th, at 11 A.M., I once more started for the Countess of 
Warwick's Sound. My boat's crew consisted of Ebierbing, as 
boat-steerer and interpreter; "Suzhi," "John Bull," Kokerzhun, 
Annawa, Ou-le-kier, and Shevikoo, thus having only one (Suzhi) 
of my previous party with me. 

As this trip, owing to the very severe weather, was nearly 
a failure, I need only give such particulars of it as may prove 
generally interesting to the reader. The wind was strong when 
we started, and every dash of water upon our boat froze as it 
touched the side. Sometimes the gusts were so heavy that great 
care was needed lest we should be capsized ; but we managed to 
cross the bay and reach land on the other side without mishap. 
Here, for a time, we had better weather, but the wind soon became 
adverse, and when we got near to French Head it was deemed ad- 
visable to encamp for the night. 

We stopped at a bight, or indentation of the land, close to the 
place where we used to cross over to Chapell Inlet, and there, in 
searching for drift-wood, I came across a piece of my lost expedi- 
tion boat. The women attended to our encampment, consisting 
of two tents, one formed of my boat's covering, the other of boats' 



ROUGH WEATHER 447 

sails ; five persons were in one and three in the other. Thus we 
passed the first night, and early next morning, October 8th, again 
started. 

The weather was very discouraging ; the wind was right against 
us, and occasionally it snowed heavily. A mile or so after leav- 
ing our encampment a perfect storm came upon us, and I saw 
that Ebierbing and the rest felt most unwilling to go on. Indeed, 
I myself now feared it would be impossible to prosecute our voy- 
age. The delay had been such that every day now brought the 
severity of winter fast upon us ; still, I determined to persevere as 
long as we could, feeling that if the ship departed soon for home 
I should have no opportunity for examining farther into the Fro- 
bisher expedition. 

The wind soon increased to a gale, bringing the snow furiously 
into our faces ; the waves ran high, every crest leajring the boat's 
side, and almost burying it in the trough of the sea. Our condi- 
tion was becoming dangerous, and so thought my Innuit compan- 
ions, as they frequently glanced at me to learn my intentions. It 
was soon evident to me that all my hopes of getting forward 
were likely to be disappointed. The season was too far advanced 
for boat excursions; snow-storms, cold and windy weather, met 
me each day. My companions, wiser than myself, plainly inti- 
mated that it would not do to persevere ; they would go on if I 
determined to do so, but they knew their own coasts, their native 
waters, and their seasons better than myself; and I felt that, much 
as I wished to accomplish another examination of the islands 
where relics could be obtained before the George Henry sailed, I 
sbould be unable to do so without running a risk that would be 
considered foolhardy. 

Our encampment that night was at a place where, as we soon 
perceived, some Innuits had lately rested. Traces of their abode 
and deposits of provision were found, and, upon inquiry, I dis- 
covered that one of my crew, Shevikoo, was of the party that had 
rested here. This explained why he so readily opened the depos- 
its, and took from the store of walrus and other meat what he 
wanted. 

The gale now increased almost to a hurricane. 1 had encoun- 
tered nothing so severe since the memorable one of the past year 
when my boat was destroyed and the Rescue wrecked. We could 
only with the greatest difficult; keep our tents from blowing 
away ; we frequently had to secure them afresh by additional 



448 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

. weights of stones at their base, and my readers may conceive bet- 
ter than I can describe the position I was in during my detention 
on that desolate coast. 

During this trip I had opportunities for much talk with the In- 
nuits concerning the Frobisher expedition, and also concerning 
some of their own traditions and superstitions. Concerning the 
" dreaded land," Annawa said : 

" Years ago many Innuits were carried away on the ice and 
never came back again. Then Innuits would not live there for 
a long time. Finally they began to go there again in great num- 
bers, when once more they were all lost, but how no Innuit could 
tell. At last, hearing nothing from the people who had gone 
there, a boat's crew of Innuits went to ascertain their fate. They 
arrived in the region they sought, but the very first night they 
could not sleep, owing to a terrible noise, all the same as if Nu-na 
— the land — cracked, shook, and broke. There was no sea, no 
wind, no ice; se-lar — sky — fine, weather good, yet the dreadful 
noise continued. However, the searching party went on shore to 
examine ; they looked around, and they went all over the land, 
but not one of their people could be found. All were gone ! 
Some mysterious fate had overtaken them. This frightened the 
new visitors; they knew not what to make of it. Then, too, the 
dreadful noises continued ; each night their sleep was troubled by 
a repetition of the direful sounds. The earth cracked and rum- 
bled, and seemed as if breaking up in all directions. It was 
enough ! Without farther delay, the visitors took to their boat 
and left the dreaded land. Since then no Innuits will live there." 
Annawa said the last catastrophe happened when he was a boy ; 
the first was a long time before he was born. 

On Wednesda3 r , October 9th, though within a mile of Lupton 
Channel, I determined upon returning to the ship ; it was all but 
impossible to proceed. But here again were other disappoint- 
ments ; the wind changed, a heavy storm set in right against us, 
and, after accomplishing a short distance, we had once more to 
encamp, this time close to "French Head." 

My trip thus far had been any thing but pleasant. In the boat 
I was so cramped, and wet with the spray, that I could hardly 
move. When I landed my limbs almost refused their several 
functions, and it was necessary for me to have a good walk before 
I could restore proper circulation. It was a comfort to have such 
a walk, a greater comfort to be within the tupic, and a still greater 



A WHALING INCIDENT. .mo, 

to have, after a time, hot coffee placed before me by the ready 
hands of Suzhi. 

The next morning, October 10th, we renewed our boat-voyage 
back to the ship. On the way a deer was seen, and my crew im- 
mediately landed to secure it. This was done without much dif- 
ficulty, guns having been brought into good use for the purpose. 
The animal wa3wfine one, and very soon made a great feast for 
all of us. It was quickly skinned, and the raw food greedily- 
eaten. I partook of some of it, and especially of the marrow of 
the legs, the bones having been broken by pounding them with a 
stone. " Johnny Bull" took the head, broke open the skull, and 
feasted on the brains. Suzhi now and then thrust her fingers 
down into the paunch, drawing forth portions of the contents, and 
eating them with much relish. While waiting at this place I 
took a walk along the beach, and found a shijj's beam high and 
dry on the rocks. It was of oak, twenty-seven feet long, and 
eighteen by twelve inches square. Spikes that had once helped 
to hold fast the ship's deck, and the bolts running through at each 
end, were much eaten with rust. It probably belonged to the 
Traveller. 

"When we again started it was with difficulty that any progress 
could be made, owing to the head wind; but at last, toward even- 
ing, we nearcd the locality of the ship. At that time another 
boat under sail was observed, and we soon found it to be manned 
wholly by Innuits. It was a pretty sight, that boat, with no load 
save its light crew, sailing in the strong wind, with a heavy sea 
prevailing. The masts and sails were bent over, almost touching 
the waves, and yet she bounded forward, beautifully rising over 
the waters, and dashing along like a white whale in alarm. As 
soon as the boat neared us, we learned that during my absence 
the crew of the George Henry had captured two whales, and this 
news was soon afterward fully confirmed when I saw the huge 
carcasses alongside of the ship. 

On board, Captain B and his crew were busy and joyous 

over the work. A 'friendly word was hastily given, and I went 
below. I regretted to learn that a man had been seriously in- 
jured, nearly losing his life by a blow from one of the captured 
whales. The boat in which this man was had run with a six- 
knot breeze right on the whale in an oblique direction, its bow 
actually mounting the monster's back near its tail. At that mo- 
ment the " boat-header" — Morgan — threw, with all the force of a 

Ff 



450 



ARCTIC EESEAECH EXPEDITION. 



bold, expert man, two harpoons in quick succession. The whale, 
feeling the concussion of the boat and the sharp wounds of the 
irons in his back, desperately and fiercely struck his flukes about, 
right and left, with the force of a thousand-horse engine. The 
sea became white under his maddened fury. Occasionally the tip 
of one of his flukes was raised high above the boat's side, as if 
about to deal instant destruction to all, and owe a blow came 
heavily down. Morgan saved himself by jumping on one side; 
but the nearest man was struck and knocked down senseless. 
The boat's mast was lifted from the step, and the sail thrown in 
the water, but, fortunately, the boat itself escaped destruction. 
The huge monster expended most of his power in lashing the 
water, and then " sounded" — that is, dived into the depths below. 
On returning to the surface he was met by lances, which caused 
the usual spouting of blood, and then followed the death-stroke, 
which made the whale a prize to the daring seamen who had at- 
tacked it. 




OO-lll-kN, OC WOMEN'S liOAT. 



THE ANVIL. 451 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

The Anvil. — Preparations for returning Home. — Excursion to Bayard Taylor Pass. 
— Hard Climbing. — An extensive View. — The Ice Pack in Davis's Strait. — A 

rapid Descent. — Return to the Ship. — Startling Announcement of Captain B . 

— Another Winter in the Ice. — General Gloom. — A bitter Disappointment. — How 
to live and keep Warm. — Innuit Simplicity regarding Money — Author's Prop- 
osition concerning Stores. 

The events tbat followed my return to the ship on Thursday, 
October 10th, 1861, were similar to those that I have already re- 
lated. "We all naturally wished to get away and proceed on the 
voyage home ; ice had begun to form, and we felt that the time 
was now come for our departure, if we meant to leave that year. 
Thus a few days passed on, during which several of our friends, 
the Innuits, who had been at different places hunting and sealing, 
returned. Among them were Ugarng, Artarkparu, and Annawa. 
Each of these, on my questioning them, spoke of the particular 
relic on Oopungnewing I had been so anxious to obtain from the 
moment when Artarkparu told me of it, as recorded in the previ- 
ous chapter ; and upon requesting them to do so, they each made 
from wood a model of the article, working at different times, and 
without the least consultation among themselves. 

I here introduce an extract from my journal as written at the 
time: 

"Saturday, October 12lh, 1861. At 9 A.M. I had interviews with 
several Innuits concerning the important relic that must still be 
on the island Oopungnewing. Ugarng saw this relic (which to 
me is yet undetermined as to its true character) when a young 
man. He says that one very strong Innuit, now dead, could lift 
it, and even did shoulder it. No other Innuit could accomplish the 
same feat. Another lifted it to the height of his knees, but drop- 
ped it quickly. Only very few Innuits were able to raise it from 
the ground. Suzhi, at my request, has just made a pencil sketch 
of its shape — at least, as near as she could. She evidently never 
took a pencil in her hand before. Ugarng, who is quite experi- 
enced in map sketching, has marked out its shape on the same 



452 AECTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

leaf as Koo-ou-le-arng's (Suzhi's) sketch. This has some corre- 
spondence to the delineation of the one Artarkparu made some 
days since. Later : 

"This minute, 10 15 A.M., have found out just what this relic 
is. It is an anvil! such as were made in former times, without 
a horn. 

" To get at this, I got Ugarng to cut out with his knife its rep- 
resentation in wood. When he finished it I held it out, asking 
'ius-su?' — that is, What was the heavy iron at Oopungnewing 
formerly used for ? His answer was an intelligible one, and one 
that determines the nature of this important relic beyond all question. 
Before I give it, I will say that this Innuit has been to the States 
(vide page 102). While there he desired to and did visit various 
manufacturing establishments, being himself naturally of a me- 
chanical turn of mind. I will now give his answer on stating 
that, holding the index finger of his left hand on the little carved 
block as I held it up, with his other hand angled into fist and 
raised above finger to represent hammer, he said, ' All the same as 
ulac7csmilh.' This expression, in connection with his pertinent 
symbolizing, settles the matter satisfactorily to my mind that this 
relic of Frobisher on Oopungnewing is an anvil." 





UGARNG'8 WOOD Moi'Ll. OF TUE IKON KELIO. AKTAEKVABC'S WOOD ilODF.L OF THE llio.N EEUC. 

Another wood model,* of great similarity to the above two, was 
executed on the 15th of October by Annawa. 

When Ugarng saw the relic, or " heavy stone," it was " red with 
rust ;" and Artarkparu informed me that it had been carried to 
Oopungnewing from Kodlunarn many 3'ears ago by Innuits on a 
sledge. Annawa, in speaking of it, said "it was something that 
did not grow there," and each one confirmed the others' testi- 
mony, though examined apart and at different times. Suzhi also 

* This model I sent to the English government with many of the Frobisher relics 
which I discovered and obtained in the Countess of Warwick's Sound. 




A SAD DISAPPOINTMENT. 453 

made a rude model of it by chewing 
some toodnoo and then fashioning it 
into the shape opposite. Thus every 
thing seemed to confirm me in the 
belief that the article probably yet to 
be found on Oopungnewing was an 
anvil formerly belonging to Frobish- 
koo-oc-le-akno's Tooi>-Non model of er's expedition ; hence my desire was 

great to induce some of the natives to 
go for it, hoping they might return before the ship sailed. But I 
iiiund no one who cared to undertake the task. 

It was the intention of Captain B to leave the country on 

the 20th of October, and the minds of all had been made up ac- 
cordingly. I was anxious to go, before sailing, to a high point 
near Bayard Taylor Pass, where I could complete my operations 
pertaining to the trigonometrical survey I had commenced. With 
this design I set out on the morning of October 17th for an ex- 
cursion thither, and I now copy from my diary a portion of the 
record made on the evening of that day and on subsequent days: 
"10 P.M. Shall I put upon paper my feelings of to-night, or 
shall I leave them to be imagined after stating the bare facts from 
wuence they originate ? 

"At present it is thought that we are ice-imprisoned in Field Bay 
for the winter! Solid 'jiack' in Davis's Strait has been seen to- 
day. How true it is that we know not what a day may bring 
forth ! 

"A few hours ago we were anticipating the short time that re- 
mained before the George Henry's sails were to be given to the 
wind, and we to be away to our loved ones at home ; but now we 
are thinking of preparations for sustaining life in these regions of 
iee and snow. I must make as enduring as ink and paper will 
allow the incidents of this day. I begin with my trip across to 
the west side of the bay, to the highest mountain-top between 
Field Bay and the Bay of Frobisher. 

"Early this morning the four boats, with the George Henry's 
crew, started off to cruise for whales. I set to work engaging a 
crew of the best Innuits among those who had just come aboard 
to accompany me across the bay, and a few minutes sufficed for 
this. Those selected were Ebierbing, Shcvikoo, 'Jim Crow.' ' Mi- 
ner,' Oo-ming-mung, At-tou-se-ark-chune. 

"After making up the west side of the island, near which tin 



±54 AKCTIC KESEARCII EXPEDITION. 

vessel is anchored, and which forms the north and northwest side 
of the harbor, I was surprised to find much ice. Indeed, early this 
morning there was no ice in the harbor, but at the time we left it 
had formed so thick that it was with great difficulty that the boat 
could be pulled through it. Findiug the ice too heavy to make 
progress, and apparently much thicker ahead of us, we concluded 
to turn our course and strike southwest, using the wind, which 
was favorable to the latter course. Sail being made, away we 
sped at a capital rate, occasionally plowing through 'sludge,'* 
that served greatly to deaden our speed. 

"At about eleven o'clock we reached the land where the winter 
passage is made in going to Frobisher Bay. A few minutes were 
spent here in deciding which of the party should accompany me 
in my tramp to the mountain-top. All but one seemed reluctant 
to undertake it; the one I shall alwa} 7 s remember, as he seemed 
rather anxious than otherwise to be my attendant ; it was Skevi- 
koo, an Innuit that I like more the more I see of him. The rest 
of the crew were to remain with the boat, taking it, if they chose, 
to hunt duck and seal. 

" Shevikoo and I started. The first quarter of a mile was over 
a plain of fresh -water ice that had been formed by sp rings bub- 
bling up and spreading their waters about. This passed, we com- 
menced our ascent of the rugged hill that lay between us and the 
mountain proper that I desired to visit. A few minutes' walk up 
this incline decided what kind of work we had before us for the 
next two or three hours. I started from the boat with my tuk- 
too jacket and trowsers on. Climbing rough rocks covered with 
soft, treacherous snow created a hoiling heat ; I therefore divested 
myself of the said clothing, reserving only my civilization dress. 

" Besuming our walk — or rather our leaping, plunging, and 
tumbling, for this was the nature of our motions during the five 
hours we were absent from the boat — our progress up was slow — 
slow indeed, for the way was really 'rugged, though not so in ap- 
pearance. Had there been no snow we could have got along very 
well, but as it was, the traveling was terrible. This may be be- 
lieved when I state that nearly the whole distance is covered with 
sharp and boulder rocks — rocks upon rocks — and over these a 
covering of snow that made all look fair, but, on attempting to 

* Just as the ice begins to make, sometimes the sea-water, to a considerable depth, 
becomes so cold that it is thick like porridge — so thick, indeed, that a boat might as 
well be pulled through a lake of tar as through " sludge." 



THE ICE-PACK. 4,35 

make passage over it, down through soft snow we went till our 
feet rested on stones, which sometimes proved firm and sometimes 
proved man-traps. Now and then we sunk thigh deep, our feet 
dropping into chinks, and becoming quite firmly wedged therein. 
As we wound our zigzag way up the steep mountain, I was ex- 
pecting every moment that my volunteer companion would refuse 
to go farther, but in this I was happily mistaken. He was a 
match for me. 

" I was rejoiced to find, as we drew near the top, that the snow 
became sufficiently hard to bear us up, thus enabling us to make 
better progress. The summit was finally reached, and a moment's 
look around was sufficient to repay me for all the efforts I had 
made to gain that point. Field Bay, Davis's Strait, Frobishcr 
Bay, and Kingaite were within sight. I was surprised at the 
height we had evidently gained. Lady Franklin Island, out in 




1 li.l.P BAT AND DAVIS S tiTCAIT, BBOU T11K UE1UUT8 liV UAVaKD TAYLOB 1'AbS. 

Davis's Strait, Monumental Island, and the islands of the extreme 
land between Frobisher Bay and Field Bay, which I visited last 
winter, loomed up as I had never seen them before at so great a 
distance from them, showing that the high land on which I was 
was high indeed. 

<: I took the spy -glass, and proceeded to make a prolonged ob- 
servation. I first directed the glass toward the vessel, which 
was at a distance of seven miles ; I then directed it to DavisV 
Strait. This I saw was filled with a heavy pack. I swept with 
the instrument along down said strait to the extremity of Hall's 



456 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Island. No black -water — naught but pack, pack; met my view ! 
I was somewhat surprised at this, but thought that perhaps to 

Captain B this would be but a familiar, every-year affair. 

The sequel to this will be soon written. 

"I asked my Innuit attendant to take the glass and '(ak-koo 
seko' — look at the sea-ice. When Shevikoo had viewed it care- 
fully, I asked him, 'Seko amasuil ?' — Do you see much ice ? He re- 
plied 'Noud-bo — noud-loo /' — Yes — yes. From the deep, slow tones 
of his voice as he answered me I understood that he too was sur- 
prised at the sight. I wondered how a vessel -was to get out of 
Field Bay ; but the next instant I thought, ' "Well, now, Captain 

B will find some way, of course, which my inexperienced 

self can not discover, by 'which the George Henry can be put 
through that pack.' My thoughts were also of Captain Parker 
and his son, who had, each with a vessel, left about this time last 
year and proceeded home. 

" I took another prolonged look, before I left, at Davis's Strait. 
Monumental Island was "white, and its sides presented no black 
rock peering out ; and the same was true of Lady Franklin Island. 
The pack appeared very rough ; much pinnacled ice was among 
it, and it was especially to be seen around the first island of the 
extreme land next Davis's Strait. As far as the eye could reach 
by the aid of the most excellent glass, up and down the strait, no 
open water met my view. I then turned to Kingaite. Miles on 
miles of mountain there were before me. A long line of black 
cloud stretched from the extreme south to the extreme northwest, 
just enveloping the tops of most of the Kingaite ridge. I was dis- 
appointed in not getting a sight of Oopungnewing and Niounte- 
lik; the ridge of another mountain, distant two miles, ran in such 
a direction as to hide them, but a small island near Oopungne- 
wing was in sight. The termination of the grass plain, Kus-se- 
gear-ark-ju-a, opposite and near Niountelik, was within view. The 
little bay on the Frobisher Bay side, making up to within one 
mile of Field Bay, was nearly down beneath us. 

"On climbing this mountain my clothing became saturated 
with perspiration. On making the top the wind was blowing 
cuttingly cold, thus serving to chill me too hastily for comfort or 
for long endurance. Before I finished the observations I made 
up there I came near freezing my fingers, and the time was long, 
after leaving that exposed position, before I could bring them 
back to their natural warmth. The stinging pains I endured in 



STARTLING NEWS 457 

those fingers while the restoration was going on seemed almost 
unbearable. 

'• We remained forty-five minutes on this mountain-top. ITad 
it not been for the lateness of the hour I should have proceeded 
two miles farther ; this distance would have led me to the ridge 
which limited my view, shutting out from sight the interesting 
places named. This ridge is by the entrance to the little bay, or, 
more properly, the harbor making up nearest Field Bay. 

"Taking a last look at the scenery around, we started down the 
mountain. Our steps were rapid. I had the misfortune to get 
one severe fall. As we were descending the steepest part, my 
right foot caught between two stones that were deep beneath a 
snow-covering, and the swift rate at which I was going threw me 
headlong while I was fast in the rocks. I recovered myself and 
extricated my foot, though not until the cramp had seized my leg 
and tied knots in it. I cried lustily to Shevikoo, who was ten 
rods ahead. He did not hear me at first, but the second call 
brought him to. I managed to get the knots rubbed out of my 
leg before he reached me, though it was some time before I could 
proceed. The time of our descent was not a quarter of that con- 
sumed in going up. When within a mile of the boat I saw the 
balance of my crew awaiting our return, and we reached the boat 
at 4 P.M., having been five hours absent from it. 

"We started at once for the vessel, making slow progress at 
first on account of the ice. At length we reached open water, 
raised sail, and sped along. As we approached the harbor we 
found that the ice had become so thick that it was only by hard 
pulling, and hard drives of the oars into it, that we got to the ship. 

As soon as I was aboard, I asked Captain B if his men had 

another whale. He replied that as yet he did not know, but the 
indications were, as his boats were not in, that they had. He was 
in fine spirits. But, alas! how soon were they changed to the 
very depth of grief! 

" Shevikoo was the first one of the crew up the side of the ves- 
sel. As soon as he got aboard he told Captain B we had 

.seen much ice down at the entrance of the bay. When I went 

down below, Captain B came to me asking if I had seen any 

heavy ice — pack — in Davis's Strait. I told him that I had, and 
proceeded to give him as truthful an account of it as I could. I 
was astounded at the effect it produced upon him. Then it was 
that I first began to realize, to feel the overwhelming importance, 



458 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the momentous character of that pack. On getting through my 
description, telling him that I not only took repeated careful looks 
of it through his glass, but had required Shevikoo to do the same, 

Captain B , with fevered brow, responded, ' Our fate is sealed! 

Another ivinter here I We are already imprisoned P 

" This was now the theme, the all-important subject of thought 

of every one who heard Captain B 's explanation of how it 

was that all hope of returning to the States this season was now 
cut off. Captain B no longer felt able to rejoice at the cap- 
ture of another whale. To and fro he paced the cabin — now on 
deck — another moment back again. 

"At eight o'clock the four boats came in announcing the fact 
that another whale had been secured. At any other time this in- 
telligence would have been received by Captain B with a 

jo3 7 ful heart, but now he was occupied in thinking what he was 
to do under the present dismal circumstances. When the boats 
came in and were placed in position on their cranes, the captain 
broke to the officers the subject that now before all others press- 
ed upon him. During the evening he proceeded to state that, 
from various circumstances during the year, he had been think- 
ing there might be something of the kind, to wit, pack-ice, com- 
ing down Davis's Strait. He said, ' Last winter hung on late : 
there has been no summer; the year has been an unusually cold 
one ; the water of the bay has been almost of sea-ice temperature, 
while now the first cold snap turns it at once to porridge, and 
then into solid ice. All these results are from the heavy pack 
that has probably been coming down Davis's Strait nearly all the 
season.' 

" Captain B— — said, farther, that to take the pack at this sea- 
son of the year would be the very height of foolhardiness. In 
the spring the whalers do not hesitate to do it, for then constant 
daylight and warm, thawing weather are expected. But now 
every thing is freezing up. Long, dark nights are upon us, and 
the George Henry is not such a vessel that one should think of 

venturing with her into dangerous places. Captain B is 

thankful that I made 'the trip I have to-day. lie says, '"What 
would have been our condition had you not 'seen and reported 
this? As soon as possible I should have been on our way; I 
should have weighed anchors and raised sail at the first far wind. 
But in what kind of a situation should we soon have found our- 
selves ? In the pack, ivithout the power to retreat P 



OUR FATE DECIDED. 459 

" To-morrow morning Captain B goes out for the object 

of visiting some point overlooking Davis's Strait, near the en- 
trance to Field Bay, to determine what he must do on seeing how 
the pack is. It is hoped that he will find the pack I saw ended; 
but he says he has no doubt, from what I saw, that it will be im- 
possible to get out this season ; that we must make up our minds 
to stop here this winter. He is already planning for the winter- 
ing of his men. He says he will have to divide them among the 
natives, as the ship has neither provision nor fuel sufficient to last 

till she is again free from ice and can reach home. 

* «• * ■ * * * * 

" Friday, October ISth, 1861. This morning, the first and all-im- 
portant matter of our being obliged to winter here absorbs our at- 
tention. It is the general subject of conversation fore and aft. 
Captain B started off at 7 A.M., taking with him his princi- 
pal officers, for the purpose of making a survey from Budington 
Mountain* of the pack in Davis's Strait. At 9 15 A.M. he re- 
turned, reporting that Bescuc Harbor was so solidly frozen that 
lie could not get through it, and was obliged to make for another 
point this side. At last he made a landing, and proceeded to an 
eminence this side ; but it was not such a view as he desired to 
make, though he saw enough to satisfy him that it would only be 
running a terrible risk to attempt getting out this season. Cap- 
tain B designs crossing the bay to the high land by Parker's 

Harbor, or near French Head, to-day or to-morrow, if the ice will- 
admit of it. 

* * * -x- -x- * * 

" October 20lh, 1861. This morning the ice in the harbor was so 
firm as to bear me up. As soon as I went on deck, long before 
the sun was up, I made my way down the ship's side upon it. 
The pack outside the bay and the new ice now nearly covering it 
have us imprisoned. For nine months to come ive are ice-bound ! 
Some of the men still think we shall get out, but I do not think 
Captain B has now the remotest idea that we can. 

'•Now (1 P.M.) the thermometer is at 13°, the sun shining 
brightly, the sky cloudless. For three days now, had there been 
a clear way before us, wc could not have got out, for there has 

* Named by mc after S. O. Budington, who was master of tlic Grorgc II, tin/. 
This mount, 500 feet high, is in lot. 02° 53' N., long. C4° 42' W. ; is three miles due 
cast of the George Henry Harbor, and a little over one mile northeast of the centre 
of Rescue Harbor. 



460 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

not been 'wind enough to fill the sails. Surely we are doomed to 
winter here. Another year of disapjoointment is mine ; my mis- 
sion to the North yet unaccomplished, I was rejoicing in my heart 
that the time had nearly arrived when I should be on my way to 
the States for the purpose of preparing again for the voyage to 
King William's Land, when a thunderbolt descends from an icy 
sky and rives my dearest plans ! But stop ! is not the hand of 
God in this? is all this luck? The wisdom of Him who sees all, 
and doth as He willeth, is above all the comprehension of mortals. 
(i * * * * Monday, October 21st, 1861. The ice this morn- 
ing I find by measurement to be four inches thick. During the 
night it -was nearly calm, and the thermometer ranged from 9° to 
10°. Notwithstanding the dubious circumstances by which we 
have been surrounded for the past few days, we have all had 
more or less hope of still arriving at our homes this winter; but, 
dreaded as it is, we have to bring our hearts to submit to this dis- 
pensation of Providence. The George Henry is fated to be ice- 
bound here for full nine months to come. The 20th of October, 
instead of finding us on our way as purposed, with hearts swell- 
ing with joyous anticipations of a quick passage home and of 
soon meeting with our loved ones, finds us engaged in planning 
for subsistence during an imprisonment of nine months in these 
frozen regions. What a change ! what disappointment ! and yet 
who shall say it has not been wisely ordered. ' Man proposes — 

•God disposes ; cheerfully, then, we should submit to our lot. 
* ■» -x •» * * * 

" Friday, October 25//«, 1861. This morning, to all appearance, 
our winter's fate is sealed. The ice is now seven inches thick, 
and is rapidly increasing. It is now twelve o'clock, noon, the sun 
shining brightly, the wind blowing strong from the northwest, 
and the thermometer only one degree above zero. 

"After breakfast Captain B sent out three Innuits to go to 

Budington Mountain and see the position of the pack. They re- 
turned at half past four; their report removes the hope of all those 
who were still looking to get out of our imprisonment this season. 
The Innuits state that seaward it is all ice ; the bay is all ice ex- 
cept the small opening to be seen from the ship's deck. The 
lower and entrance part of the bay is filled with pack; in Davis's 
Strait nothing is to be seen but pack — ' all white, no black.' The 
effect produced by this upon some of the Qeorge Henry's men was 
very painful. 



FOOD AND FUEL. 401 

"Feelings of disappointment — sad disappointment — steal over 
me now and then at our not being able to proceed according to 
our plans ; but I confidently believe it is all for the best." 

It was upon Captain B that the care and anxiety princi- 
pally fell. He had to plan and arrange for his ship's company 
during another nine or ten months, and there was but a scanty 
supply of provisions and fuel to do it with. As to the latter 
want, that could be met in various ways. The jawbones of three 
whales recently captured would serve for a long time ; one of 
these was sawed, chopped, and split for use. The bone is very 
porous, and filled with oil ; the heat from it is great. One cord 
of bone must be equivalent to four cords of live oak. There was 
also some timber of the wrecked whaler down the bay. 

As it regarded food, we had to husband our stores very care- 
fully. On Sunday, October 27th, a new order of things com- 
menced, and instead of three meals a day we had only two. 
Bread or flour was the most nourishing food then on board, with 
the exception of beans, which were to be served out twice a week. 
There was salt junk and salt pork, but eating either was felt to 
be almost worse than being without. Thus we soon found it 
best to fall back upon our Innuit food, and it would have amused 
many persons at home to have seen our messes at our daily meals. 
Some, too, would have wondered how we could eat such stuff; 
but certainly that surprise would cease when they were told we 
must eat it in order to live. I do not think it can be said that 
any of us ate " black skin" (whale skin) and other Innuit food be- 
cause we really liked it. Some wise person has said that man 
should not live to eat, but eat to live. We were of the latter 
class, hence the necessity of relishing whatever came in our way. 

I may here mention an incident that occurred about this time 
which shows the simplicity of the Innuit character in matters con- 
nected with money. Of course money, as we have it, is to them 

unknown. One day "John Bull" came to Captain B to buy 

a new one-dollar shirt, handing him two American cents as pay- 
ment. Ugarng, in like manner, tried to buy a violin to which he 
had taken a fancy. The violin belonged to Bailey, one of the 
steerage hands, and Ugarng, calling him aside, whispered in his 
oar, " Viddle, viddle — wonga — pilctay— money," and then slipped 
into Bailey's hand what he supposed to be a generous sum, one 
cent of the latest coinage. But Bailey could not trade for that, 
and Ugarng went away without his " viddle." 



462 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

I conclude this chapter with an extract from my diary of Octo- 
ber 30th : 

" The George Henry is short of provisions for the time she is 
now obliged to remain here. I have already signified to Captain 
B what I know will, under the circumstances, meet the ap- 
probation of the contributors to the expenses of my outfit in the 
way of provision, ammunition, etc. I have told him that whatev- 
er I have that will contribute to the sustenance of his ship's com- 
pany the present winter, the same is at his command. I have 
nine cans of pemmican, of about one hundred pounds each, re- 
maining of the twelve and a half which I had when I left the 
States. I have also one and a half casks of Borden's meat-biscuit. 
The pemmican and meat-biscuit are of the most excellent quality, 
and equivalent to fully 3200 pounds of fresh beefsteak. Of these 
articles, as also of ammunition, I have already spoken to Captain 

B , saying that they were ready to supply his and the ship's 

company's necessities." 



DEATII OF BHABKETS WIPE. 463 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Sick Mam-ma-yat-chc-nng immured in a living Tomb ! — The dying Woman lingers 
for Weeks, almost starving. — The Aurora Borcalis. — A magnificent Display. — 
Strange Custom relating to new Mothers. — Nukertou's Grave. — More singular 
Customs. — A Talk with the Dead. — Presents to the Departed. — Life in the Win- 
ter. — Theatricals on Board. — Henry Smith, the "Negress." — Consternation of 
some of the Innuits on seeing a black Face. — Another Excursion. — A Winter 
Sledge-journey. — Old Mother Petato. — Novel Mode of warming the Feet. — More 
traditionary Statements. — A great Feast. — Frozen Deer. — Deer's Paunch con- 
sidered delicious Food. — Return to the Ship. — Visit Tikkoon. — Tradition of a 
Ship built and masted. 

I begin this chapter with the sketch from my diary of a sad 
scene which passed under my observation : 

" October 28lh, 1861. This morning, or during the night, 'Mam- 
ma-yat-che-ung? 'Mary,' the wife of ' Sharkey,' died. This Innuit 
woman has long been an invalid. Her disease was consumption, 
one that is carrying off more Innuits than all other diseases to- 
gether. Some months ago it was thought she could not survive 
long ; the Innuits gave her up, I may add, as one dead. Tier 
wing-a — husband — Sharkey, though all his previous conduct was 
kind to her, gave her up as dead. A tupic was made, and into it 
Mary was removed ; it was her living tomb I Sharkey took to 
himself another wife. For weeks and weeks Mary lived help- 
less and almost starving. Occasionally some few of the Innuits 
would carry this dying woman morsels of seal, duck, or walrus. 
Of course, all that was valuable or convenient for Mary's com- 
fort was taken away when the Innuits carried her to the 'house 
of her cleath,' for it is their custom to leave every thing in the 
tupic or igloo where one of their n»mber dies as unfit to be touch- 
ed ever after. Mary must have died during the night, for when 
Suzhi called this morning at the tupic with cooked meituk — duck 
— sent her by Tookoolito, no answer was made, and, on looking 
in, Suzhi saw that she was dead. Innuit custom will not permit 
one of that people to enter the place of the dead under such cir- 
cumstances. One of the Innuits came over to the vessel and an- 
nounced the death of Mary, and Captain B , with one of the 

ship's men, went over to bury her. The captain looked in, and 



464 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



saw enough to chill one's heart's blood. The corpse met his 
view with head erect, and eyes staring at him with the overpow- 
ering glare of death ! The tupic became her winding-sheet, and 
stones were piled over her — her only monument." 

On November 2d, at 6 P.M., there was another magnificent dis- 
play of the aurora. From east to west — south of us — was a beau- 
tiful arch of living gold. The eastern base rested, to all appear- 
ance, on the high laud, as did also the western, and the centre of 
the arch was 10° above the horizon south. 




AUEOBA A6 BEES FEOM FIELD BAY, KOTI 



The wind was blowing strong, and the aurora truly appeared 
as possessing life. It danced to and fro from one extreme to the 
other. Its colors rivaled the rainbow, the pea-green predomina- 
ting over the other hues. At the east a bank of golden rays shot 
up far above all the rest. The stars were obscured as the " mer- 
rie dancers" swept along in piles of coruscations. The arch con- 
tinued to recede, falling lower and lower; the reverse is the usual 
course of the aurora, as far as my observation has extended. Not 
a cloud could be seen. 




Gg 



FOOD FOU THE DEAD. 467 

At 7 30 P.M. the aurora was lifting its arches zenith ward ; 
there were now two reaching from cast to west, and for some por- 
tion of the way there were Uiree. The wind was blowing almost 
a gale, the thermometer being 6° above zero. The stronger the 
breeze, the more beautiful was the aurora, the brisker its races 
and dancings, and the more glowing its colors. I find in my 
diary the following entry with reference to this sublime spec- 
tacle : 

"I wish all my friends in the States could witness the aurora 
as seen in these regions. I am sure, on beholding it as now seen, 
they would clap their hands and sing, ' Praise to God, for lie 
hath surrounded us with the heavens full of glory !' 

" Never shall I forget when, last winter, Captain B , Mate 

Gardiner, and myself were on deck, witnessing one of the rare 

displays just described. In truth, we did tremble, Captain B 

exclaiming, 'I never wish to behold the like again? And so I felt." 

I accompany this description and illustration with a picture of 
a still more remarkable display which occurred on the evening 
of October 13th, I860, one feature connected with which was a 
meteor of great brilliancy ; it shot from a point in the heavens 
near Cassiopeia, crossing Ursa Minor, and losing itself among the 
folds of Draco. It was followed by a trail of light twenty degrees 
in length. 

On November 4th I visited Ebierbing and Tookoolito. Dur- 
ing my stay the latter informed me that she had to make calls 
the next day in all the tupics, and perhaps at the ship. On my 
asking the reason, she answered that her infant would be two 
months old, and that it was the custom — the first Innuits having 
done so — for the mother to call at every tupic of the village at 
the end of the period mentioned. During these two months Too- 
koolito had not been into any tupic except her own. She added 
that, in accordance with custom, she should cast away all the 
clothing she then had on, and should never touch it again. 

Some time after I was informed that the grave of Nukertou 
had been visited by Innuits, according to another of their singu- 
lar customs. They took down small pieces of tuktoo skin with 
the fur on, and of toodnoo. When there, they stood around her 
grave, upon which they placed the articles they had brought. 
Then one of them stepped up, took a piece of the tuktoo, cut a 
slice and ate it, at the same time cuii another slice and plac- 

ing it under a stone by the grave. Then the knife was passed 



468 ARCTIC EESEAECn EXPEDITION. 

from one hand to the other, both hands being thrown behind the 
person. This form of shifting the implement was continued for 
perhaps a minute, the motions being accompanied by constant talk 
with the dead. Then a piece of tuktoo fur and some toodnoo were 
placed under the stone, with an exclamation signifying, " Here, 
Nukertou, is something to eat and something to keep you warm." 
Each of the Innuits also went through the same forms. 

I was told by Tookoolito that this strange custom was invari- 
ably practised among the Innuits. But they never visit the 
grave of a departed friend until some months after death, and 
even then only when all the surviving members of the family 
have removed to another place. Whenever they return to the 
vicinity of their kindred's .grave, a visit is made to it with the 
best of food as presents to the departed one. Neither seal, Ninoo, 
nor walrus, however, is taken. 

At the time of this visit but little remained of Nukertou's body ; 
there were a few bones and some hair, but the hungry dogs, dur- 
ing the previous winter, had broken into the snow-tomb and eat- 
en away all her flesh. 

On November 23d the Innuits began to build their igloos, or 
winter habitations, in the place of their summer tents. On the 
25th a great many of the natives came on board to pass the even- 
ing with our foremast hands. The} 1 " spent some time in singing 
and dancing to whistling and the music of an instrument called 
the " keeloun."* The sport served an excellent purpose in keep- 
ing all in good spirits and helping to pass away the long night. 

The following night, November 26th, " theatrical" performances 
took place on board the George Henry. The cabin was filled to 
its utmost capacity with Innuits and the ship's crew. "Jim 
Crow," the son of Artarkparu, occupied the centre of the cabin, 
and was performing on the "keeloun," while the other Innuits 
were seated all around, the female portion singing to the music. 
I made my way to the little after-cabin, and there seated nryself 
so as to have a full view of what was going on. 

The keeloun was accompanied by a tambourine made by Mr. 
Lamb. Another instrument was a triangle, a steel square pend- 

* The "koeloun'' is an instrument made by stretching a thin deerskin, or the 
skin of the whale's liver, upon a wooden or whalebone hoop about thirty inches in 
diameter, forming something not very unlike the tambourine known in this coun- 
try. It is held, however, by a handle, and the player strikes, not the skin, but the 
hoop, accompanying his music by an uncouth sort of dance. 



GOOD TIME IN GENEUAL. 



469 




TLAVINO TUB "KKELOUN." 



ent from a tow string, and struck with an iron spoon. The 
keeloun was played in turn by Annawa, Ooksin, Koojesse, and 
young Smith, a la negro ! While Annawa was going through the 
" sweating" process, playing the instrument and dancing the ridic- 
ulously wild figures that are indispensable, according to Innuit 
ideas, his music being accompanied by a full chorus of native fe- 
male voices, there came bouncing into the very midst a strapping 
negress, setting the whole house in a roar of laughter. It was 
young Smith dressed in this character. The tambourine was* 
passed into his hands, and he soon did full justice to the instru- 
ment, his or her sable fists soon knocking a hole through the 
whale's liver skin with which it was covered. 

"When Smith first entered some of the Innuit women were 



470 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

much frightened. Jennie, the angeko, was seated near me, and 
she tried to put as great a distance as possible between herself 
and the negress, believing the apparition to be an evil spirit. But 
all shortly became reconciled to the stranger, especially when 
Smith resumed his place, playing and shouting, Innuit-like, and 
making so much fun that all our sides ached with laughter. 
Even the singing women were obliged occasionally to give way 
and join in the merriment. 

The negress was next called on to act as drummer. Ooksin 
held the keeloun while she performed " Yankee Doodle," " Hail 
Columbia," and other pieces, with admirable skill and effect, using 
two iron spoons for drum-sticks. The finale was a dance by two 
Innuit ladies and two of the ship's crew, the music being fur- 
nished by Bailey with his " viddle." 

At the early hour of half past six the performances closed, all 
concerned being highly pleased with the enjoyments of the even- 
ing. "A hearty laugh is as good as a feast." The number of 
Innuit guests exceeded fifty ; many of the ladies were ornament- 
ed in the height of fashion among the arctic aristocracy. The 
brightly-glittering head-bands, and the pendents of variegated 
beads which hung from each side of their hair, made the assembly 
look quite theatre-like. Tookoolito was present with her infant, 
as were many other ladies with similar organs of melody at their 
backs. 

On the 28th of November we celebrated Thanksgiving Day to 
the best of our ability. It is true, we had no turkeys, roast beef, 
or onions ; but yet we had something extra — something besides 
whale, salt junk, salt pork, and hard bread. It was a sea-pie of 
foxes. The arctic fox is a very pretty species, and is killed in 
considerable numbers by the Innuits for its flesh and its fine 
white fur. 

The time wore on without many incidents especially worthy 
of note till the 10th of December. I must, however, mention one 

scene which was deeply interesting. Captain B and several 

of the aft hands were in the main cabin, where were also Shevi- 
koo, Koojesse, and other Innuits. The captain had a way of his 
own in occasionally breaking out in strong, unmistakable terms 
against that northern country. While speaking of it on the 
evening referred to, he said, "Koojesse, what do you have such a 
cold, bleak, barren, mountainous, rocky, icy, stormy, freezing coun- 
try here for, unfit for a white man or any one else to live in ?" 



A TALK WITH KAli-l'lXii. 471 

It was at once noticed that the Innuit Shevikoo was bathed in 
tears, and such of the other Innuits as comprehended the words 

of Captain B seemed much hurt. How true that every one 

likes his own country best. Shevikoo was one of the noblest of 
his people ; he could not repress the flood of tears that burst forth 
on hearing his native laud thus spoken of. 

As soon as it was fairly decided that the George Henry must re- 
main imbedded in the ice through another winter, I determined 
to make, as soon as possible, a sledge journey up Frobisher Bay 
for the purpose of effecting a complete exploration of every bay 
and inlet in those waters, and also of investigating still more 
closely the matters connected with the Countess of "Warwick's 
Sound. Previous to this, however, it became necessary for me to 
make a shorter trip to Jones's Cape, in order to obtain reindeer 
skins by trading with the natives ; these I wanted for bedding 
and winter dresses for myself and for Ebierbing and Tookoolito, 
and to bring home with me to the United States. 

On Tuesday, December 10th, I went over to Ebierbing's tupic 
to see him about going on this excursion with me. While talk- 
ing with Tookoolito I asked her to go with me to see the old In- 
nuit whose name is Kai^ping, for I wanted to talk with him. Be- 
fore we started there came into the tupic a young Innuit with 
Tookoolito's infant, its whole length stuck into the leg of a pair 
of tuktoo hodlings — breeches. The fur turned inside made a warm 
envelope for the body of the child, otherwise naked, except for a 
tuktoo cap and jacket. Tookoolito then sent the young man who 
brought the infant for old Karping, who soon came in. He had 
quite a stock of gray whiskers and mustache, and I should think 
he was from sixty -five to seventy years old. 

Tookoolito acted as my interpreter, and I cautioned her not to 
assist the old man by any remarks of her own. I first asked, 
"Have you ever heard of a place called Kodlunarn?". He re- 
plied, " I have. It is a small island, and near Oopungnewing." 
"Why is it called Kodlunarn ?" " Because white men lived there, 
and built oo-mi-ark-cku-a" — ship. "Did you sec the Icodlunas 
who lived on Kodlunarn and built ship there?" Baising up his 
eyes, with wonder pictured in them, at the question, he said 
"Argi." 

He then proceeded to say that it was a long time before he was 
born; he knew nothing about it but what his old father and 
mother told him. I asked him how the white men could build a 



J-72 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ship iii the Innuit country where trees did not grow, where there 
was no wood, no iron, no materials of any sort. I told Tookoo- 
lito to say to him that it sounded very strange to me to hear about 
ship-building there. Tookoolito smiled, and did as requested. 
The old Innuit smiled also, and then proceeded to explain how it 
was, saying that the ship was built out of material carried there 
by liodlunas. I then asked him if there was any tbing on Kod- 
lunarn now that the kodlunas who built the ship left there. The 
old man answered : 

" Ar-me-larng, amasuadlo !" (Yes, a great many.) "What were 
they ?" " Little red pieces" of something ; he didn't know what 
they were. "Any thing else?" " Yes, little black pieces, a great 
many ;" he didn't know what they were for. There was nothing 
like them in the Innuit country ; but these black things were on 
Niountelik, not on Kodlunarn. I then asked if he had seen any 
thing else. At first he said he had not, but, on thinking a while, 
he said he had seen "heavy stone" — one small one at Tikkoon, 
one large one, he thought, on Oopungnewing. The last he saw 
four years before, and he said the Innuits used to try their strength 
indifting it. He could lift it as high as his knees, but no higher. 

I asked him if any one could see the place where the kodlunas 
built the ship. He replied, " Yes ;" and then proceeded to show 
what kind of a place it was. A snow-block was in the bottom of 
the igloo, having been brought in for making snow-water. I told 
Tookoolito to have him take a snow-knife, and show us what kind 
of a place the ship was built in. The old man took the snow- 
knife and commenced trimming the block, and then proceeded to 
chip out a trench, comparatively wide, and deep at the edge, but 
shallow and narrow at its termination. He then swept his knife 
around the block of snow to represent the location of the trench 
in the island. I asked him what was the character of the land 
where they dug the trench. As I asked this question, I put my 
finger at the bottom of the model trench before us. The answer 
astonished me, it being the very reverse of what I expected, for I 
knew the bottom of the excavation on Kodlunarn to be of stone. 
The old man's answer was that it was soft. By this I understood 
him to mean that it was like sand or loam ; but to a repetition of 
the question, he answered, " Soft — very soft — same as wood all fall- 
ing in pieces ; the tarrio — sea — came up into the trench where the 
wood was." 

Here was a deeply-interesting fact unexpectedly disentombed. 



ANOTHER SLEDGE TIUP. 473 

I had previously found at Kodlunarn several pieces of wood at 
the bottom of this trench, the larger portion of it being of the 
character described by this old Innuit. It was beneath stone that 
had fallen from the bank, the top of the stick being dry, while the 
base was imbedded firmly in rocks and sand. The old Innuit 
said that a good deal of something soft (wood) used to be in the 
bottom of the trench. (Manuscript records of Frobisher's expedi- 
tion now in the British Museum, but seen by me only since my 
return, show that quantities of timber, carried out for the purpose 
of building a fort, were buried at the bottom of one of his mines.) 

Being questioned farther, the old man said that only three men 
built the ship ; the others stood around " all same as captains." 
The Innuits did not help make the ship, but they helped the lead- 
lunas get the ship down into tarrio. 

On December 15th, the thermometer being 20° below zero, the 
wind light from the northwest, the weather a little cloudy, I took 
an early breakfast of whale-steaks and coffee, and at 5 45 A.M. 
was on my sledge, to which were harnessed eight clogs, the place 
of my destination being Jones's Cape. I had with me my Innuit 
dog-driver " Kooksmith" and young Smith. Shortly after start- 
ing, and upon getting into some snow saturated with sea-water, a 
surprising phenomenon was seen. When the clogs put their feet 
into the snow and water, it was like stepping into a flood of molt- 
en gold, and the phosphorescent light thus produced was not con- 
fined to the space beneath the dogs and the sledge, but spread it- 
self around, and continued for several seconds. 

In an hour and twenty minutes we crossed the bay, and reached 
the land on the other side; in an hour more we were at the crest 
of Bayard Taylor Pass, and in less than another hour had safely 
accomplished the steep descent, and were on the smooth ice of 
Lincoln Bay, an arm of the Countess of Warwick's Sound. Aft- 
er lunching on frozen black skin, we pursued our journey, and ar- 
rived at Oopungncwing at 1 P.M. There I made a fruitless search 
for the anvil, and in an hour resumed our trip. At 8 10 P.M. 
we reached Jones's Cape, having traveled thirty-five miles, and 
were soon greeted by the familiar voices of many Innuits we knew. 
Among them were Sampson and his family, and I was speedily 
located in their hospitable abode. 

That night I slept closely packed among seven of the Innuits, 
the little girl Puh-&ney-er being on one side of me, and her uncle 
on the other. On rising, I took two ounces of whale skin for my 



471 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



breakfast — I •would gladly have eaten two pounds could I have 
had it — and soon afterward started for the head of Peter Force's 
Sound, where some more igloos of the natives were situated. 
Arriving there at noon, I directed my steps to the igloo of Oo- 
soo-kar-loo, whom I had seen the night before at Sampson's. I 
was met and kindly welcomed by his wife, quickly finding my- 
self at home. I now quote from my diary : 

"Monday, December 16th, 1861. * * * * After a few words 
of greeting and gladness from her, I commenced taking off my 
feet gear, for the object of holding my almost frozen feet over the 
ikhumer. I had just removed my kumings as in came a very 
venerable Innuit woman, whom I remembered having seen sev- 
eral times before, but whose name I could not call to mind ; but 
I passed the compliments of the day by saying, 'As-shu-e-lid-ley V 
(Are you well ?) To which she replied, ' Ter-boy-ou-loo' (very 
well). I was seated on the tuktoo bed, and commenced at once to 
move on one side to make room for the old lady. But she signi- 
fied to me to keep my seat, at the same time picking up the snow- 
shovel (pwa-hin), which is a small pine board with handle, plac- 
ing it near my feet, and seating herself on it. The old lady, see- 
ing me engaged in extricating my feet from their gear, put forth 
her hands, and drew off my double set of native socks and tuktoo 
stockings. She did not stop here, though I assured her that 
would do. I had on, next my feet, civilization stockings, and in- 
tended keeping them on ; but Pe-ta-to — for this is the name of 
the warm-hearted old mother — grasped first one foot and then 
the other, stripping each bare ! Quick as thought she lifted up 
the double flaps of the front of her tuktoo jacket, and as quickly 
placed my ik-Jce is-si-Jcars (cold feet) flatly upon her body, and 




GENUINE BOSriTALITY. 



PETATO'S HOSPITALITY AND STOKY. 475 

against a breast whereon has fed as robust and persevering a gen- 
eration of Innuits as ever honored this Northern land. 

"This act of Petato's, represented in the* preceding engraving, 
is considered by the natives the very beau ideal of genuine hos- 
pitality. Knowing this to be the custom of this people, and be- 
lieving in the old saw that ' when you are in Eome you must 
do as the Eomans do,' my heart leaped with gratitude for this 
kindly deed of good old Petato. My feet must have been like 
lumps of ice, and yet she quailed not at their contact with her 
calorific body. 

" While warming my feet in the peculiar mode written of, I 
told Smith and the Innuit Kooksmith that I wished to have a 
conversation with Petato relative to Kodlunarn, Oopungnewing, 
and Niountelik, and of white people, etc., etc. 

" I asked Petato if she knew ' heavy stone.' Asked if she ever 
' sat down' [that is, made her home] on Kodlunarn. To which 
she answered 'Ar-me-Iarng' (Yes). Then I asked, ' Shoo Innuits pil- 
e-tay nu-na Innuit ar-ting-a nar-meV* (Why did not the Innuits 
give to that island an Innuit name ?) '■Shoo Innuits pil-e-tay kod- 
lu-narn ar-tmg-a ?' (Why did Innuits give white man's name to 
it ?) Old Petato proceeded to answer these two questions thus : 

" 'Am-a-su-it oo-mi-ark-chu-a ki-ete wich-ou! wich-ou f wich-ou! 
wich-ou ! Wong-nuk ki-ete sal-e-Jcoo oo-mi-ark-chu-a! (A long, long, 
long, long time ago, a great many ships came here. A northerly 
gale prevailed, and broke — or smashed — some of the ships.) 
That is, then it was that the island was given the name ' Kodlu- 
narn.' 

"Following this, I asked the question, 'Ka-chin-niny oo-mi-ark- 
chu-a sal-e-kooT (How many ships were destroyed?) Petato an- 
swered, ' Shev-e-minrJ (She did not know). 

'• When Petato was attempting to convey to mc the many 
years ago that a great many ships came into this bay, she was 
truly eloquent. When pronouncing the word ' wich-ou,' and re- 
peating it, which she did the several times indicated, she lifted 
her hands to each side of her head, raising in them handfuls of 
her gray locks. At the same instant Kooksmith, standing by her 

* It should be said, with reference to the Esquimaux language as introduced in 
the text, that, though it could be easily and perfectly comprehended by the Innuits 
when spoken, and though it can be understood when read to them in its present form 
by the natives with me in this country, it is nevertheless what we may call " broken," 
being such as a person would naturally use whoso acquaintance with the language 
is imperfect, as mine necessarily was. 



476 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

side, having caught the spirit of her inspiring thought and elo- 
quence, seized another handful of her venerable hairs, lifting them 
up too. Then, with 'ncreasing emphasis, Petato proceeded, pro- 
nouncing luich-ou at first with strong voice, then with louder and 
louder voice, till the final pronunciation of the word, when her 
whole soul seemed on fire, her face glorified by the spirit of her 
earnestness, and, as if attempting to measure infinity, she looked 
wildly to the right, to the left, then turned her head behind, while 
her voice burst forth as a thunderbolt, leaving the word ivich-ou 
ringing in my ears still. 

" The word 'wich-ou,' in Innuit, has two significations. For in- 
stance : Suppose I say to an Innuit, '■Ki-ete wong-d (Come here to 
me). If he should not be prepared just at the moment, he would 
say 'Wich-ou 1 (Wait a while, or I'll come in a short time). In 
the other signification it refers to time past. For instance : Sup- 
pose I should ask an Innuit when his people were very numer- 
ous here North, he might answer ' Wich-ou 1 (that is, a long time 
ago). In this latter sense Petato uses this word. 

" Petato proceeded : 'Kod-lu-nas ki-ele in-e-tete nu-na make it 
am-a-su-it 1 (White people came and landed on the island, and put 
things on it in large quantities). The old lady has been much 
around the ships, and occasionally uses an English word when 
conversing with those who talk that language. It will be seen 
that she used to good effect the two words 'make it,' in her last 
sentence. 

" She continued : ' Wich-ou Jcod-lu-nas in-e-tete make it Kod-lu- 
narrC (After a while white men sat down — made a house or 
houses on Kodlunarn). She described this house by placing one 
stone upon another, indicating by some snow placed between that 
some substance of white color was between the layers of stone. 

" Petato was then asked the question, 'Kis-su lvd-ki-nas in-e-tete 
man-erV (What is now on the island that kodlunas left there?) 
She answered that a great many little pieces, red (oug*), were on 
the island, such as Innuits use to clean and brighten their Jcar- 
oongs (brass ornaments for the head). 

"When Petato was asked 'who told her all about kodlunas 
coming here, and the many ships that come in this bay,' she an- 
swered, ' My mother's grandmother's grandfather knew a good 
deal about it.' The inference is that Petato's mother told her 

* Oug really means blood, but the Innuits use this word to signify any thing red 
when talking with a stranger not well versed in their language. 



A GREAT FEAST. 477 

about it, the grandmother of Petato's mother told her, and the 
grandfather of Petato's mother's grandmother told said grand- 
mother of it. 

"Thus Petato's knowledge is direct from the sixth generation 
of her family ; or, rather, the information I gained was -from the 
sixth generation direct from the day of the afore-mentioned grand- 
father. 

'• I now continue the information conveyed by old Petato, giv- 
ing the points as they come to mind. 

" Kodlunas built a ship on Kodlunarn. She described, by pe- 
culiar scooping movements of her hands, the place they dug out 
in the island in which they made the vessel. She said there were 
two places dug out in the rocks — one a little distance from where 
they built the ship, made to catch and hold water (fresh water) 
for the kodlunas. Innuits all around were kind to the white 
people ; brought them seals, tuktoo, etc., etc. 

" They were on Kodlunarn through one winter — that is, while 
there, wintered there but once. When ice broke up, went away 
in the ship. After a while come back again. Seko (ice) brought 
them back. Could not get out. Very cold — great storm. In- 
nuits built them igloos on Kodlunarn, but they all died. 

" Petato was about to tell how many kodlunas built the ship 
and tried to go away. She first raised one hand, opened the fin- 
gers and thumb, showing Jive ; thinking a moment, and looking 
at said fingers and thumb, she finally threw up the other hand, 
fingers and thumb spread out ; then she said she did not recol- 
lect whether they were mik-u-oohoo-loo or am-a-su-ad-lo (few or 
many)." 

After concluding this interview with Petato we returned to 
Jones's Cape, arriving there at 5 P.M. An hour after my en- 
trance into his igloo, Sampson returned from his trip to a cache 
of tuktoo, bringing the saddles and carcasses of two deer. As 
soon as he arrived these were thrown into the igloo ; the network 
over the ikhaner, placed there to receive articles of clothing 
which need drying, was cleared off, and the frozen masses of tuk- 
too were placed carefully upon it, in order that the outside might 
lose some of its burning quality ; for let it be borne in mind that 
any thing exposed to the cold of the North, if touched with the 
bare fingers, gives a sensation as if hot iron were handled. Moan- 
while invitations were given to the village Inuuits for the tuktoo 
feast about to come off at Sampson's igloo, and soon the guests 



478 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

rushed in. The position of the ladies was, of course, upon the 
bed platform, and I drew off my boots and took a place among 
the "fair of creation ;" all others of my sex had to take standing 
seats wherever they could find them down on the snow floor. 
Fully thirty souls were crammed into our igloo. I was sand- 
wiched between the wife of Koo-kin and the wife of New-wat- 
che, the latter being the sister to Sampson's wife. 

Sampson was the master of ceremonies ; he first made the la- 
dies on the bed give way so as to clear a space whereon he might 
do the carving ; then he placed on this spot the table-cloth, a 
huge sealskin, and upon that put the carcass of a large deer ; he 
then took a boat hatchet and began to carve the deer. Slabs of 
its side were chopped and peeled off; chips of ice flew here and 
there into the very faces of the guests at each stroke of the axe. 
As fast as Sampson rolled off the venison other men took the 
pieces, and by means of a saw and seal-knives reduced them to a 
size- adapted for handling ; then Sampson distributed these bits, 
one to each, till every mill had grist to grind. Thus for half an 
hour Sampson carved ; then his hatchet handle broke off close up 
to the head. Another axe was sent for, and meanwhile, with the 
half of a saw, the two saddles were divided into the proper num- 
ber of pieces, ready for distribution ; the carcass was then once 
more attacked, and the shell was broken, split, and sawed into 
pieces. In it was the " kernel," to which all looked with anxious 
eyes ; this was at last divided into as many pieces as there were 
pieces of saddle, and then one of each was given to every guest. 
I received my share with gratitude, and with a piece in each 
hand began eating. I bit off a mouthful of the saddle-piece ; it 
was good. I took a morsel of the other; it was delightful; its 
flavor was a kind of sorrel acid ; it had an ambrosial taste ! it fair- 
ly melted in my mouth ! When nearly through, I had the curi- 
osity to crowd my way to a light to see what this delicious frozen 
food was, for where I sat I was shaded by large forms between me 
and the fire-light. I looked at it, rolled it over, and looked again. 
Behold, it was the contents of a reindeer's jsaunch ! On this dis- 
covery I stopped feasting for that night. 

While the guests were arriving I was busily- writing in my 
note-book ; several Innuits crowded round me, interested in this 
curious work. I wrote two or three of their names, pointing to 
the writing and pronouncing the word, as Kop-e-o, Ning-u-ar- 
ping, Koo-choo-ar-chu ; this pleased them much. The call was 



MASTING SHIP. 479 

then raised for me to write my own name, which I did, also pro- 
nouncing it. Then "Hall! Uall! Hall!" rung from tongue to 
tongue through the igloo amid general laughter. 

After securing what skins I wanted, I started on my return to 
the ship on December ISth with the sledge and dogs. A few 
minutes after passing Kodluuarn we rounded the point of Tik- 
koon, the place I had visited on the 23d of September. Having 
passed by this spot and made a short distance, less than a quar- 
ter of a mile, " Kooksmith" pointed to a bluff on the main land, 
saying " Ki-ete, oo-mi-ark-chu-a Kodlunarn" — that is, the -ship 
came from Kodlunarn to the said place. He then proceeded to 
say (though I did not fairly understand his meaning at the time), 
that after the ship was built and launched the kodlunas towed 
her round to this spot in order to have a good place for raising the 
masts and putting them in the vessel. Kooksmith represented 
by the handle of his whip how they raised one end of the mast 
up on the bluff by the coast. At the time, as said above, I did 
.not fully comprehend what he wanted to say, but supposed him 
to mean that a mast was made there, and then taken round to 
Kodlunarn ; later, as will be seen shortly, the whole force of his 
description came out. 

The most tiresome portion of our day's work was the ascent of 
the Bayard Taylor Pass. Our load was not heavy, but it re- 
quired the combined exertions of all to push and pull the sledge 
up the abrupt mountain's side. We were all tired, the dogs 
quite so, for they had had nothing to eat since leaving the vessel. 
The little "camels" of the North — the Innuit doers — are of inesti- 
mable value in that country ; when well fed up before starting 
on a journey, they will do hard work for many days in succession 
without any food. 

"When we reached the summit and began our descent, we found 
still hard and also dangerous work going down with a loaded 
sledge and a team of dogs. While Smith hung to the rope made 
fast to the hind part of the sledge, and Kooksmith kept just ahead 
of the dogs, whipping them back, I had hold of the fore part of 
the sledge, to guide it and help keep it back. Notwithstanding 
all our precautions, the sledge occasionally bounded away over 
snow-drifts, down steep pitches, now and then plunging dogs and 
men into one general heap. Wc had an exciting ride indeed go- 
ing down on the Field Bay side, the dogs springing with all their 
might to keep ahead of the flying sledge. We reached the ship 
at 7 20 P.M. 



480 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

The next morning, December 19th, while writing in the after- 
cabin, Kooksmith came in, and I made farther inquiries relative 
to the place at Tikkoon before written of in connection with the 
ship's mast. He took from the table on which I was writing a 
small memorandum-book, held it just beneath the edge of the ta- 
ble to represent the ship, then took a pencil, one end of which 
rested on the book and the other on the table, slightly inclined. 
The edge of the table represented the bluff at Tikkoon. Then 
Kooksmith raised up the pencil, which indicated the mast, and 
thus all was simply and effectively explained ; the vessel, when 
launched, was taken to the bluff of Tikkoon that the masts could 
there be raised and set. 

Soon after Kooksmith had gone I called Tweroong into the cab- 
in, and asked her, in Innuit, if she knew the story of the white 
people taking the ship to Tikkoon from Kodlunarn. Tweroong 
comprehended my question at once. She immediately took my 
pen and a tobacco-pipe, then bade me hold a book down by the 
table's edge, and placed on the book and table, at one end of the 
former, the pen, and at the other the pipe, both inclining against 
the table's edge,just as in the illustration shown b} r Kooksmith. 
She next raised one of the mimic masts to a perpendicular posi- 
tion, I still holding the book, and then the other. Taking up a 
pencil, I also raised that, and asked her if there were not three 
masts. To my question she answered decisively "Argi" — Kb; 
adding, "Muh-ko? mulc-hoP meaning Two. 

I then recalled to mind a remark made to me by Koojesse the 
previous winter, when we were passing Oopungnewing at a dis- 
tance from that bluff: " There," said he, " the place where kodlu- 
nas make or put in masts." I thought the remark preposterous 
at the time, and gave but little attention to it. 

Another curious point in connection with the matter of the 
ship's masts was this : When conversing with some of the na- 
tives after the discoveries above narrated, I learned that the name 
" Xe-pou-e-lie sujo-bing" had been given to the bluff spoken of. On 
making closer inquiries, I found that this was a phrase coined for 
the purpose of expressing a certain idea, as was the case with the 
word Kodlunarn. Its translation is, " To set up masts." 

The significance of these discoveries with reference to Fro- 
bisher's expedition, and the bearing they had, to my mind, on 
more recent matters, will be seen by the following extract from 
my diary at the close of December 19th : 



TRUTHFULNESS OF IXNITT HISTORY. 



481 



" How long it does take to gather in all of the links of this 
chain three hundred years old ! I am convinced that were I on 
King William's Land and Boothia, and could I live there two 
years, I could gather facts relative to Sir John Franklin's expedi- 
tion — gather facts from the Innuits — that would astonish the civ- 
ilized world. How easy to go back a score of years or so, and 
get truthful history from among the Innuits, compared with what 
it is to plunge into the history of near three centuries, and draw 
out the truth ! May I live to see the day when I can visit King 
"William's Land and Boothia, and secure the full history, as it must 
exist among the Innuits there, of that expedition !" 




civilization sledge. (See Appendix, No. 11.) 

Hh 



« 

482 ARCTIC HESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

Movements of the Ship's Company. — Scarcity of Provisions. — A Man's Feet frozen 
stiff. — Amputation necessary. — Dreadful Story of a Woman deserted. — Attempt 
to Rescue her. — The Attempt a Failure. — A perilous Situation. — A second Effort. 
— The Woman found dead. — Ebierbing at a Seal-hole. — Inuuit Perseverance. — 
The Author's Plans. 

Early in January of 1862 the men of the ship's company di- 
vided themselves among the Innuits, trying the native life, such 
a course being necessary by reason of the shortness of our provi- 
sions on board. They were not steadily absent, however, but now 
and then returned to the ship, finding the privations of Innuit 
life harder to be borne than the scarcity on board the vessel. On 
the 2d of January Robert Smith went with Annawa to Lincoln's 
Bay, and, at the same time, Mate Lamb and one of the seamen 
started for the reindeer plains at the head of Field Bay. A few 
days before, a party of the men had gone to the Countess of War- 
wick's Sound. On the day just mentioned they all returned, with 
beds, bags, and baggage. They brought sad tales of want and 
suffering, owing to the short supply of provisions among their In- 
nuit friends. 

Ebierbing, on hearing of their return and the cause, said, laugh- 
ingly, " They be all same as small boys." The Innuits are cer- 
tainly a very different people from white men. They submit to 
deprivation of food quite philosophically ; to all appearance, it is 
the same to them whether they are abundantly supplied or on the 
brink of starvation. No murmur escapes their lips; they pre- 
serve their calmness, and persevere till success rewards their ex- 
ertions. 

On January 4th Sterry and " Fluker" (William Ellard) left the 
ship for Jones's Cape, and on the 10th Robert Smith came back, 
having been unable to sustain the privation he was forced to en- 
dure any longer. On the 12th an Innuit boy, called "Bone 

Squash," arrived from the plains, bringing to Captain B the 

following letter : 



FROSTBITTEN FEET. 483 

i: CAPTAIN — Sir : ' Shorty' (Ooksin) got one small deer to-day, 
and I send this to you for yourself, and hope that soon we may 
have the luck to send you more. They see quite a number of 
deer every day, but half the time their guns will not go. I hope 
that you are well, for I know that your mind is troubled, as I 
have heard that all of the men have come back to the ship. I 
saw three deer yesterday on the ice. We are quite hard up here 
now, for all the ' black skin' is gone, and I have only about ten 
pounds of whale-meat left; but I shall not come to the ship, for 
I might as well die here as there, for all I know. E. Lamb.'' 

The above note presents in a truthful light the experiences of 
some of the ship's company. 

On the night of the 12th of January, at ten o'clock, the ther- 
mometer down to 72° below the freezing point, Fluker was brought 
to the ship by the Innuit Sharkey with a sledge drawn by dogs. 
Fluker soon reported that he had frozen his great toe while going 
up to Jones's Cape, and that he thought it best to come back and 
have the black thing attended to. He went forward with such a 
light and springing step that it seemed impossible that his toe 
could have been badly frozen. Soon after, he came down into 
the after-cabin, and sat by the stove warming himself, and eating 
heartily. "While taking his supper, he told us of the experiences 
of Sterry and himself. They left the ship, as was above stated, 
on January -1th, and were five days in getting to Jones's Cape. 
There they found abundant food, but he discovered that his toe 
was black, and he thought it best to return. 

Captain B caused a poultice to be prepared, and then di- 
rected Fluker to pull off his boot; the poor fellow made several 
ineffectual efforts to do so, when the captain said, " Hold on, Flu- 
ker; let me pull for you." With considerable difficulty the boot 
and double stockings were taken off, when Captain B sud- 
denly exclaimed, "Fluker, your foot is frozen now as hard as ice/" 
In a moment the other foot was stripped of its gear, and (hat also 
was found to be frozen stiff. "Away, away with him from this fire! 
What are we thinking about ! Ice-water and salt ! I fear this 
man's feet are gone!" Such were the hurried exclamations of 
the captain, and all hands were at once engaged in endeavors to 
thaw and preserve the feet of the unfortunate Fluker. The se- 
quel may be given in a word : on the 17th Captain B was 

obliged to amputate all the poor man's toes, performing the op- 



4S4 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

eration skillfully with instruments improvised for the emergency; 
some days after it became necessary to take off another portion 
of his feet, and from that date the patient slowly recovered, being 
able after a time to resume his duties. 

On January 21st two of the ship's company arrived at the ves- 
sel from Cornelius Grinnell Bay, nearly dead from hunger. They 
had been without food, except a mere morsel, for several days. 
They had left the ship four weeks before, and they said that they 
had not eaten on an average more than three ounces a day, so 
little game had been secured in that locality by the natives. 
Some days they had to eat sealskins, walrus hide, reindeer sinew, 
blasted whale-meat, and scraps remaining after trying out the 
ooksook. One of them, after two days' fasting, received from the 
hands of an Innuit a piece of reindeer sinew, weighing perhaps 
an ounce, for his supper ; but, after chewing it a while, he gave 
up the attempt to eat it. 

On the 20th of February Eobert Smith and five of the forward 
hands returned to the ship from Oopungnewing, where they had 
been living. Shevikoo, with his dogs and sledge, brought their 
bags of bedding. They said that the provisions at Oopungne- 
wing were all out, and that they had had nothing to eat for several 
days. They reported also a sad occurrence. When the Iunuits 
removed from the "Plains" to Oopungnewing they abandoned 
one of their number, the wife of "Jim Crow," leaving her, with 
but a trifle of provisions, to die. The reasons given for this act 
were that she was sick and unable to help herself. As soon as I 
was informed of this, I at once proposed to raise a party and go 
the next morning to ascertain the fate of the deserted woman, 
and, if she were still living, to bring her on a sledge to the ship. 

In accordance with this purpose, I set out on the next day, 
February 21st, accompanied by Mate Lamb and four of the ship's 
crew, who volunteered for the work. We had a small sledge and 
four dogs, and took with us a variety of articles for the comfort 
of the suffering woman, if she should be alive when we reached 
her. It was ten o'clock before we started, new harness having to 
be made for the dogs, and the sledge to be dug out of a heavy 
snow-drift. The prospect of a successful issue of the trip was 
doubtful at starting. As I anticipated, we found the traveling 
very laborious. We walked in Indian file ; I led the way occa- 
sionally, as did the others in turn. The walking through the 
snow was terrible work, and the one who led the wav had to 



THE RESCUE TARTY. 435 

make footsteps for the others. No one except Lamb and myself 
could hold out longer than five minutes at a time in making these 
tracks. The snow was deep, and much of the way was just hard 
enough to almost bear our weight, but at each step down we would 
go, knee deep, thigh deep. It is impossible to convey to any one 
a correct idea of the nature of the traveling we experienced on 
this journey. First one and then another of my companions 
gave up and returned, leaving only Lamb and myself to proceed. 
The wind had freshened to a gale, sweeping the snow directly 
into our faces, and cutting us like powdered glass. The cold was 
intense. "What could we do ? Persevere? Yes, while I had any 
hope at all of effecting the object for which we had set out. 

Lamb tried hard to persevere ; but, finally, he too had to aban- 
don the task as hopeless. The dogs were unable to get on, more- 
over, and I was at last reluctantly obliged to turn my face again 
toward the ship, having decided that it was my duty to return to 
save the living rather than to strive to reach one who might be 
already dead. Never had I experienced harder work than in 
traveling back. The condition of Lamb was such that I feared 
for his life if we did not soon get on board. Every few steps the 
snow had to be broken down to make a passage. It was of God's 
mercy that I had strength enough to hold up, else both of us 
must have perished. Occasionally I threw myself down on the 
ice or snow, thoroughly exhausted ; then I would start up, arouse 
Lamb, who seemed to be verging toward that sleep which in cold 
regions becomes the sleep of death, and once more battle onward. 

During this hard passage back to the vessel my noble dog Bar- 
bekark was like a cheering friend; as now and then I lay almost 
exhausted upon the snow for a moment's rest, he danced around 
me, kissing my face, placing himself by my side, where I could 
pillow my head upon his warm body. No one who knew his 
characteristics could fail to perceive that he realized the critical 
situation of Lamb and myself. He would bound toward me, 
raise himself on his hinder legs, place his paws upon my breast. 
and glance from me toward the vessel, from the vessel to Lamb, 
then leap away, leading the sledge-team on a distance ahead, there 
to wait till we again came near, the few dogs and the soft state 
of the snow preventing us from riding. 

I was indeed a happy man as I walked into the gangway of 
the George Henry, and learned that all my company were safely 
back to its shelter. 



486 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

On February 25th I made another attempt to see what had 
become of the woman who had been abandoned, and I now take 
from my diary the history of that excursion : 

" Eight o'clock, night. Back again! the attempt to reach the 
plains successful ; the woman found within a tomb of snow, her spir- 
it gone to God. 

" I will now attempt to give the incidents of this day. 

" This morning Ebierbing and I were up early. While my 
Innuit friend (who was to be my companion and auxiliary in my 
renewed attempt to rescue the one at the plains) was engaged in 
icing* the sledge and harnessing the dogs, I was busy bagging 
blankets, pemmican, oil, etc. — the same articles I provided myself 
with on Friday last, with the object of making the woman com- 
fortable before starting to bring her back. On getting the dogs 
together, Ebierbing found two missing. As it was essential to 
have a full team, we spared no exertions to find them. After 
searching all around the ship and the boats which are out on the 
ice, and not finding them, Ebierbing indicated that they might be 
over on the island at the deserted snow-houses of the Innuits. 
The two harnesses in hand, I offered to go and make a trial in 
getting them. I directed my steps to that part of the island 
where the abandoned igloos of Ebierbing and Ivoodloo are. 

"Arriving there after severe struggling through the deep snow, 
I found dog-tracks leading to the openings into the two igloos, 
the said openings being through the dome, where the seal-entrail 
windows had been. Looking down through these openings, and 
searching around, I could see nothing of the dogs. I then made 
my way laboriously along, over to the Adllage proper, on the far- 
ther side of Fresh-water Pond, and was unsuccessful here also. 
As I was making my return, I determined to visit again the ig- 
loos where I had first searched for the dogs, and on turning to 
them I saw one of the animals in the distance. On calling to him 
the other soon made its appearance ; but, as I was a stranger to 
them, I had a difficulty in capturing them. The}' broke past me 
and ran into the broken-down passage-way leading into Ebier- 
bing's deserted igloo. The drift, as well as the falling in of the 
dome, had so completely shut up this passage that I was a long 
time in enlarging the fox-hole sufficiently to admit my contracted 
size. By perseverance I kicked a way before me, being pros- 
trate, and pushing along feet foremost; but on getting the length 
* See Chapter XXXVII. 



SECOND RESCUE ATTEMPT. 487 

of the passage leading to the main igloo, and making a turn so 
that I could look ahead, my dilemma was far from enviable, for 
there the dogs were, beyond a possibility of my reaching them, 
the dome of the igloo having stooped, as it were, to kiss its foun- 
dation. By using dog-persuasive talk, I at length induced one of 
them to come out of the wolf-like den and approach me. Here 
it played •• catch-me-if-you-can," coming just without my reach, 
and dodging back into its lair. After fifteen minutes' coaxing the 
dog was tempted to hold out its paw, but as often as I attempted 
to meet it with mine it was tormentinglv withdrawn. The paw 
was finally fast within my hold, and quickly I had the dog in har- 
ness, dragging him after me, and of course his companion follow- 
ed after. "When back to the vessel I was covered with perspira- 
tion, though the thermometer was G2° below the freezing point. 

"At fifteen minutes past 10 A.M. Ebierbing and I started, with 
little expectation of being back to-night. "We took along the 
pair of snow-shoes of Ebierbing's (of Esquimaux style and make), 
to be used alternately by each of us if the occasion required it, 
and added to our traps a snow-knife, with which to make us a 
snow-house on the way, if we needed it. 

" The team of dogs was an excellent one, tractable, strong, and 
of great speed wherever and whenever the traveling would ad- 
mit of it. The number was not what we could wish, being only 
seven, but it was as great as we could have. Had my four ' Green- 
landers' been here, their help would have been ample for almost 
any emergency. 

" The leader of Ebierbing's team proved to be of no ordinary 
quality. Though, for much of the way to the point where I was 
obliged to turn back on Friday last in order to save my remain- 
ing companion (Lamb), the tracks we had made were obliterated, 
yet this leader, with admirable instinct, kept us in the desired 
course. We had not proceeded far from the vessel before I found, 
to my joy, that the traveling had greatly improved since Friday. 
The snow, in many places, had become firmly packed — much of 
the way sufficiently firm to hold up the dogs and the broad shoe 
of the sledge, with both Ebierbing and me on it. 

" We bad other work than traveling to do. We worked des- 
perately to keep our faces and feet from freezing. The wind was 
blowing a smart breeze all the way up the bay, directly from 
ahead, at a temperature of 62° below the freezing mark. The 
air calm, with a temperature of 100° below the freezing point of 



488 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

water, would be much more endurable than with such a wind, 
charged with the temperature it was. "We took turns in trotting 
along beside the sledge, more for the object of keeping ourselves 
from freezing than with the view of easing the dogs of our addi- 
tional weight. By the aid of these seven dogs, and the broad run- 
ners of this sledge of Ebierbing's, we were enabled in two hours 
to reach the ultimatum of our attempt on Eriday. After getting 
half a mile beyond said point we really found good passable trav- 
eling, and, by keeping close inshore, as far as our course would 
admit of it, we found much fair ice, the tide having overflowed 
the snow and changed it to ice. 

"As we came within the distance of half a mile of the plains, I 
kept a constant look-out to see if I could discover some human 
figure out watching our approach. I may here remark, as an in- 
cident of this journey, that so cutting was the cold wind that it 
froze the water of the eyes, locking them up in ice, so that it was 
only by vigilance and effort that I could keep myself in seeing 
order. Many a lump of ice that I was forced to withdraw from 
my eyes showed specimens of eyelashes embalmed in crystal. As 
I said, I kept as good a look-out as I could, hoping that our ap- 
proach might be welcomed by the one we sought to snatch from 
her desolate imprisonment. The ascent from the sea-ice to the 
plains was so gradual that I knew not when we were on the one 
or the other. I was also in doubt about our having made the 
correct landing, for the snow had covered up all former sledge 
and dog markings ; but, on watching the motions of our noble, 
vigilant leader, I felt satisfied that his instinct was proving true — 
that he was leading us, by marks imperceptible to human eye, to 
the point we so impatiently sought to reach. This confidence we 
soon found not misplaced, for ahead of us we perceived various 
articles left by the Innuits who were recently living there stick- 
ing up above the snow. The dogs increased their speed, as is 
usual with them on nearing an inhabited place, and soon placed 
us alongside where the igloos had been. But where were the 
three igloos that I had visited Thursda}^ January 30th, a little less 
than four weeks ago ? Not one to be seen ! I took my snow- 
knife from the sledge, and, after my companion had finished his 
work of whipping down the dogs to a prostrate position, I bade 
him follow me. 

"Around and around we walked, searching for the igloos. Sure 
was I that we were at the point I had struggled to reach. Could 



SEEKING TIIE LOST VILLAGE. 489 

it be possible that the deep snow had covered them up ? My In- 
nuit friend told me that such was probably the case. No foot- 
prints save our own could I discover. Were we traveling heed- 
lessly over the grave of her whom we were fighting to save? 
This was a question that rushed into my brain. Then the thought 
came to me, perhaps she still lives in some tomb beneath our 
feet. List ! list ! methought I heard a sound as if muffled ! All 
was as still as a charnel-house. Ebierbing's accustomed eye was 
not long in discerning a spot that satisfied him that, by cutting 
down through the snow, it would lead to the dome of an igloo. 

<: Knowing it to be repugnant to his feelings to touch any thing 
belonging to an igloo covering the dead, I spared him all pain on 
that score by digging down unassisted. A few moments sufficed 
to satisfy me that Ebierbing had indicated to me the precise spot 
leading to an igloo, for a few cuts with my snow-knife brought 
me down to the dome of one, and a few more through it. After 
cutting a hole of sufficient size to let in light and my head, I knelt 
down, and, with throbbing heart, surveyed within. The igloo was 
vacated of every thing save a large lump of blubber back upon 
the dais or platform — the bed-place and seat of the Innuits — and 
a few bones, the remains of some of the tuktoo that had been kill- 
ed by the Innuits on the plains. A brief search revealed the apex 
of another igloo. Through the dome of this I cut a hole, but found 
the interior still more vacant ; not a thing was in it, if I except a 
drift of snow that completely filled the front of the igloo, closing 
up the place that had been used as the entrance. This made two 
igloos that I had searched without finding the object of my sym- 
pathy and pursuit. "Where was the third? That was now the 
cmestion, beyond the probability of being immediately answered. 
We sought here and there, but unsuccessfully for a while. Ebier- 
bing took an oo-nar (seal-spear) — which was among the articles I 
indicated as pointing up through the snow which wc saw as we 
made our approach — and 'sounded,' striking it down through the 
deep snow in one place after another, till he hit what told him the 
third igloo was there. He called to me, and pointed to the spot, 
withdrawing himself a little distance off, where he awaited my 
opening up whatever might be below. Stroke after stroke willi 
my long knife loosened the hard pure snow-drift. I lifted the 
blocks up out of their bed, casting them aside. This was the 
final search. My feelings, as I delved away at this heart-tearing 
work, may be better conceived than described. The dome of the 



490 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



igloo was reached. The heat that had been generated within from 
the fire-light had turned the snow of which it was made into solid 




SEEKING THE LOST VILLAGE. 



ice, and I had difficulty in getting a hole through this. All this 
time we were exposed to the wind, blowing its cold, freezing blast 
from the northwest. My snow-knife gave way in cutting this icy 
dome, and I was obliged to take' in its place the seal-spear. With 
this I quickly penetrated the wall under me, thus revealing the 
fact that a lining, or second envelope, was yet to be cut through 
before I could determine my success in finding her whom I sought. 
It is a custom quite prevalent with the Innuits to line their snow- 
houses with sealskins, or such sail-cloth as they occasionally ob- 
tain from the whalers, for the object of shedding the droppings 
from the melting dome of the igloo, which follow when a large 
fire-light is kept burning, or when the weather becomes very mod- 
erate. 

"This igloo I found to be lined with both sealskins and sail- 
cloth sewed together. With the knife I made an opening through 
this material. Throwing back its folds, and peering down into 
the interior, I there beheld her whom my soul aspired to help 
and to save. But she moved not, she answered not to my call. 
Could she be slumbering so soundly, so sweetly, that the ordi- 
nary tone of the human voice could not arouse her? There she 
was, her face turned to the wall at her right, reclining in her 
coucb. fully enveloped in bed -covering. Enlarging the opening 
I had already made for the purpose of descending into this igloo, 
I called first to my Innuit friend to come near me. With cau- 
tious steps he approached. I told him the discovery I had made, 
and that I wished him to assist me as I descended, and to remain 



THE WOMAN FOUND DEAD. 



491 




"SUE MOVED NOT, SHE AN8WEEED NOT TO MY GALL." 

by -while I determined whether the woman breathed or not. As 
the opening was directly over the ikkumer, I had considerable 
difficulty in getting down into the igloo, but at last I was within. 
In breathless silence I approached the object before me. I un- 
mittened my right hand, and placed it on her forehead. It was 
frosted marble ! She is dead ! she is dead ! were my uttered 
words to my friend, who stood on the snow roof looking down, 
and watching intently for the momentous result. Ilcr whom we 
thought to rescue, God himself had rescued. lie found her here, 
lonely and helpless, imprisoned in a clay tabernacle, and litis en- 
tombed in ice walls and snow — deserted, abandoned by her peo- 
ple, when at His bidding an angel with white wing — whiter than 



492 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the pure, radiant snows around — took the jewel from its broken 
casket, and bore it aloft to its home. 

" Is she not better off now than when in this sinful world ? ask- 
ed my weeping heart, as I looked upon the ice-fixed features be- 
fore me. But the scene I can not now dwell upon. 

"I turn to the simple record of my investigations of whatever 
might lead to a conjecture of the time of this woman's death, and 
other incidents relating thereto. 

"At the immediate entrance to the igloo — within the igloo — 
was a drift of snow reaching from the base to the dome. This 
snow had found its way in by a crevice not larger than my fin- 
ger. On digging the drift away, I found a portion of a snow 
block that had been a snow door. As it had become but a frag- 
ment of insufficient size to seal up the entrance from the took-soo, 
or passage-way, into the main igloo, slabs of ' black skin' had been 
piled up, to make up the deficiency of the snow block. Whether 
this was done by the deserted woman or not I can not decide. 
There is a probability that the Innuits, who so cruelly abandoned 
her to her fate, nearly filled up the entrance, then withdrew, turn- 
ed round, and, by means of their arms and hands, reaching within 
through the small opening, completed the sealing up, the last act 
being to place a block of snow in the small remaining crevice. 

" The woman, I doubt not, was so helpless as to be unable to 
get off the bed-platform from the time the Innuits left till her 
death. On the network over the fireplace was a single article — a 
pau-loo (mitten). Over the instrument used by the Innuits to 
contain their fire-light was hung a long iron pan in which to 
make snow-water. This contained ice, leaving the evidence that 
the woman's fire had ceased to burn, that the water had become 
frozen, and that, in order to quench her burning thirst, she had 
chipped ice from the pan (which hung close by her head as she 
lay in bed) by means of her oodloo (woman's knife). A tobacco- 
pipe was near her head also, apparently having been used just 
before she died. By her side — between her and the wall of the 
igloo — was a four-gallon tin can, containing articles of the char- 
acter and variety possessed by every Innuit woman — needles, 
reindeer sinews (for thread), oodloo, beads, etc., etc. There was 
abundance of whale skin within the igloo, and so of ooksook with 
which to continue a fire ; but all of it was down on the floor of 
the igloo, without the reach of the woman, if she were unable to 
get from her bed, which I presume was the case when the Innuits 



BELIEF JOURNEY. 493 

left her. The bedding was extremely scanty. Over her limbs 
was naught but an old sealskin jacket, over her body and shoul- 
ders the shreds of a tuktoo skin and piece of an old blanket. As 
I turned back the covering from her shoulders, I saw that she 
was reduced to ' skin and bones.' As I looked upon her tattooed 
face, it was youthful and fair ; even a smile was there, as if the 
King of Cold had fastened upon her at the very moment when 
her spirit welcomed the white-winged angel from heaven. 

•• I know not how long I tarried in this that had been her liv- 
ing tomb, and was now the tomb of that only which is earthly. 
But at last I raised myself through the opening in the dome by 
which I had made my entrance, and, with the assistance of my 
Innuit friend, proceeded to cut out snow-blocks and place them 
over the excavated place in the igloo. Having secured it as well 
as we could, thus reburying, as it were, the dead, we turned our 
faces to the sledge and dogs, and were soon on our way to the 
ship." 

On Saturday, March 1st, news arrived by Koodloo of the ill 
success attending him and Ebierbing on their seal-hunts at Too- 
koo-li-to Inlet, and of the starving condition of their families. I 
thereupon determined to return with Koodloo and carry food to 
relieve them, and also to effect arrangements to have Koodloo 
and Ebierbing, with their families, remove to Field Bay. We 
started with eight dogs attached to our sledge, but the deep yield- 
ing snow made our progress at first very slow. Our course for 
the first four, miles was nearly due north, when we struck the 
land on the east side of Grinnell Mount; thence, for a distance of 
fifteen miles, our journey was inland, first traversing a chain of 
lakelets embosomed amid mountains. When about three miles 
inland on our way, we came across an igloo nearly buried in 
snow ; it was one that had been made a half-way house by Ebier- 
bing and his party in going up. After this our way wound in 
and out among the mountains, up and down the steep sides, the 
sledge often nearly running over the dogs, till we came to Too- 
koolito Inlet, where we expected to find Ebierbing, his wife, and 
Koodloo's family. 

" Isaiah," the little son of Koodloo, was seen coming out to 
meet us, and soon afterward we reached the igloos. Tookoolito 
gladly welcomed us, her husband being out over a seal-hole. The 
next day, March 3d, finding that Ebierbing had not yet come in, 
Koodloo and I went in search of him with dogs and sledge. 



494 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

When within three cables' distance of where he was still seated 
beside the seal-hole, having been there since the previous morn- 
ing, he signified to us not to approach nearer, lest we should 
frighten the seal, as it had come up and given a puff. We then 
returned to the igloo and. remained for another night. On the 
morning of March 4th Ebierbing had not returned, and I went 
once more to look for him, but soon discovered him approaching, 
lie had been two and a half days and two nights at that seal-hole, 
patiently sitting over it without food or drink/ and he had not 
caught the seal either. On returning to the igloo some soup and 
other food was given him, and he then expressed a determination 
to go and try again. 

On the evening of March 5th I was again at the ship, Ebier- 
bing, his wife, and infant having accompanied me. I left a sup- 
ply of my pemmican for Koodloo and his family, until Ebierbing 
should return with the dogs and sledge for them. 

The last half of the month of March I was chiefly occupied 
with preparations for the sledge journey which I proposed making 
up Frobisher Bay, and to which I have before referred. I con- 
clude this chapter with an extract from my diary of January 8th, 
concerning a subject which was alwaj's present with me, and to a 
consideration of which I gave many thoughtful hours : 

" This P.M. I have called on my Innuit friends Ebierbing and 
Tookoolito. They are going to accompany me to the United 
States. I take them with the object of having them as interpret- 
ers on my still proposed voyage to King William's Land and 
Boothia Felix. Among the Innuits who spend their lives in the 
vicinity of the places named, there exists the history of Sir John 
Franklin's expedition from about the time the Erebus and Terror 
became beset in the ice, near King William's Land, to its final dis- 
persion, and of all events connected therewith. I repeat : the his- 
tory of Sir John Franklin's expedition exists among the Innuits 
now living on and in the vicinity of King William's Land, Mon- 
treal Island, and Boothia Felix Peninsula. I am almost fiositive 
that if I can be so blessed by the Power that overrules all things 
as to make a successful passage to the field of my desired opera- 
tions, I can, after a time, accomplish such a work as shall make it 
a matter of astonishment to the civilized world that the same has 
not been done before." 




KltlEUUlMi AWAlTlMi A SKA LB "JiLQW. 



SLEDGE JOUKXEY. 497 



CHAPTER XXXIT. 

Commencement of Sledge Journey up Frobisher Bay. — Parting with Tookoolito. — 
Crossing the Pass. — Arrival at Oopungnewing. — Search for the "Anvil." — A 
Seal-feast. — A AVahus Hunt. — Spearing the Walrus. — Building an Igloo. — In- 
nuit Puppies. — Arrival at Brewster Point. — A young Seal. — Unsuccessful At- 
tempt to catch the Mother. — Trip up Newton's Fiord. — Out all Night. — An ex- 
tempore Igloo the fourth Encampment. — Dog Comforters. — Caught in a Storm. 
— Peril and Fatigue. — Safe Return to the fifth Encampment, same as the third. 

Ox Tuesday, the 1st of April, 1S62, 1 started on my exploring 
sledge trip up Frobisher Bay, to which allusion has already been 
made (see page 471). Some of the officers and crew of the George 
Henry were proceeding to Oopungnewing with a whale-boat and 
whaling apparatus lashed to a sledge drawn by dogs, and I took 
the opportunity of transporting my material over the Bayard 
Taylor Pass, proposing to go on from Oopungnewing with the 
ship's sledge. 

The party consisted of nine persons, four belonging to the 
ship's company, four Innuits, and myself, and at 7 A.M. we start- 
ed from the ship. Our team of dogs was a good one, numbering 
nineteen, all in excellent order, and in two hours we made the 
land, commencing the journey across the Pass. Tookoolito, who 
had been of great assistance to me in making my preparations for 
this journey, had promised to see me in the morning and bid mc 
goftd-by; but she overslept herself, and I was disappointed of 
seeing her. After making three quarters of a mile, on looking 
back I saw an Innuit far behind, but supposed it to be one of 
our party whom our quick movement had left in the rear. Pres- 
ently one of the ship's company called my attention to the fact 
that Tookoolito was hastening after us. I knew at once that the 
noble-hearted woman was anxious to see me, in accordance with 
her expressed purpose of the previous evening. Turning back, I 
met her laboriously working her way along among the hum- 
mocky ice, quite exhausted with her exertions. As soon as she 
could speak, she said, " I wanted to see you before you left, to 
bid you good-by." I thanked her, expressed my regret for the 
trouble she had taken, and asked where her babe was. She 

Ii 



498 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

rolled down her hood, and there, nestled at her back, was the 
sweetly-sleeping Tuk-e-lik-e-ta. Taking Tookoolito by the hand, 
I thanked her for all her kindness to me, and assured her that 

Captain B would attend to her and Ebierbing's wants while 

I was absent, seeing that they did not sufl'er for lack of food. I 
then sent her back with two of the crew who had accompanied 
us thus far, but were now returning. 

The descent of the Pass was for a portion of the way danger- 
ous, and at all times exciting ; the passage was down three de- 
clivities, one of which was at an angle of 45°. To guard against 
accident, the Innuits placed straps made of walrus hide over the 
forward part of each runner, allowing the same to sweep back un- 
der the runners; this acted as a drag by digging deep into the 
snow. To the stern of the sledge was fastened a line twenty fath- 
oms long, to which Lamb, Morgan, and myself clung for the pur- 
pose of holding back. The dog-driver was directly in front of 
his team, whipping them back, so that they might not give to the 
sledge any swifter motion than it would have from its own impe- 
tus. Thus the descent was safely accomplished. 

We arrived at Oopungnewing at 4 P.M., having been on the 
way but nine hours, and were kindly welcomed by the Innuits, 
large and small, as we drove up to their igloos on the southeast 
end of the island. Several of the ship's crew were also there, liv- 
ing with them, and apparently enjoying perfect health. 

Soon after our arrival I proceeded to the igloo of Artarkparu, 
to learn the precise spot where he had last seen the " anvil." An- 
nawa was with the old man ; and from the conversation that fol- 
lowed, I soon found that Ar-lood-loong, the wife of Artarkparu, -^o 
was seated at her usual place before the ikkumer, was better Ac- 
quainted with the particulars than any other one of the party. I 
immediately promised her beads and tobacco if she would accom- 
pany me to the spot where the relic could be found. With alac- 
rity she drew on her kodluis, and bounded out like a deer, pro- 
ceeding over the rocks westward, while I exchanged a few more 
words with the two old men. They informed me that when this 
"anvil" was last seen it was within ten fathoms of where we then 
were, but that it had beeu tumbled off the rocks into the sea. At 
very low water it could be seen ; and they told me that the ice 
would go away from the place before the ship sailed, and that 
they would help me get it then. 

I then joined Arloodloong, who had waited for me upon the 



ANVIL.— THE WALRUS HUNT. 499 

rocks, and she directed my attention to a certain level spot of 
land not far off, where the natives sometimes build their igloos 
or erect tupics. She said that, when she had a nu-tar-ung (babe) 
yet unborn, the " heavy stone" (anvil) was there, and was used as 
a seat by herself and many Innuits who at that time had their ig- 
loos on the spot. On inquiring which of her sons was the nu- 
tarung to which she referred, she replied Kod-la-av-lincj, a young- 
man I supposed to be about twenty-five years of age. Her moth- 
er had also seen it there ; but, after a time, her people had brought 
it away to the locality indicated by Artakparu, and had finally 
tumbled it into the sea. 

In the evening Koojesse came home, drawing into his igloo 
three seals and a fox. One seal, I should think, weighed 200 
pounds. The two others were young ones, of but two or three 
days old, both as white as snow. He caught the mother and one 
of the young ones in a seal's igloo, which was on the ice and over 
a seal-hole. 

Just before sundown I took a walk to the top of the hill at 
Oopungnewing, and saw Jones's Cape, and many other place.? 
where I had previously been. Kingaite's rampart of mountains 
also stood up in grandeur before me. The Bay of Frobisher was 
filled with fragments of ice, sending forth thundering noises as 
the swift tides dashed piece after piece upon each other. I was 
delighted to see on the north side an unbroken pathway along the 
coast upward. 

That evening a great seal-feast took place in Koojesse's igloo, 
old Artarkparu and his family being present. Of course I joined 
in it, and participated in eating the raw, warm-blooded seal, tak- 
ing it Innuit fashion — that is, disposing of several pounds of raw 
meat at one sitting. The young seal (which I tasted at supper 
on the following day) was tender and fine, eating like a spring 
chicken. 

Owing to various causes, I had to stay at Oopungnewing for 
several days, and during that time I occupied myself with writ- 
ing and making observations. On April 5th, Koojesse, with sev- 
eral others of the natives, went out on a walrus hunt, and in the 
afternoon I spent some time watching them in their operations. 
They were about four miles out, walking in Indian file, making 
their way on drifting, broken ice. Soon after, one of the Innuits, 
looking at the party, said they had killed a walrus, and the dogs 
were at once harnessed to the sledge and sent out on the ice-floe, 



500 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

to the edge of it, to wait there till the Innuits should get the wal- 
rus cut up. At about ten o'clock at night it was announced that 
the party was returning ; then the cry of the dogs was heard, and 
soon Koojesse entered, dragging after him a huge cut of walrus. 
The news he communicated was cheering. He had struck and 
secured one, and Annawa another. Five had been struck through 
the day, though only two had been secured. Ooksin struck one, 
but his iron " drew ;" Kooksmith lost one by the breaking of his 
" gig." A considerable portion of the next day was consumed in 
bringing in the meat. The walrus struck by Annawa was of 
good size, weighing not far from 1500 pounds ; that of Koojesse 
was not so large. 

The manner of taking the walrus is as follows : The hunter has 
a peculiar spear, to which is attached a long line made of walrus 
hide ; this line is coiled, and hung about his neck ; thus prepared, 
he hides himself among the broken drifting ice, and awaits the 
moment for striking his game. The spear is then thrown (as 
shown in the accompanying engraving), and the hunter at once 
slips the coil of line off his head, fastens the end to the ice by 
driving a spear through a loop in it, and waits till the walrus 
comes to the surface of the water, into which he has plunged on 
feeling the stroke of the harpoon ; then the animal is quickly dis- 
patched by the use of a long lance. The recklessness and cool 
daring of the Innuit is forcibly shown in this operation, for if he 
should fail to free his neck of the coil at just the right moment, 
he would inevitably be drawn headlong beneath the ice. 

At length, on the morning of April 7th, I resumed my trip. 
Ebierbing had come over with the sledge on the previous day, 
and I made an exchange with him, taking his, and giving him 
that belonging to the ship. My company consisted of Koojesse, 
his wife Tunukderlien, Kar-nei-ung ("Sharkey"), his wife Nbud- 
famg ("Jennie"), and young Henry Smith. We proceeded on 
the sea-ice, nearly northwest, for Chapel's Point, at the west side 
of the entrance of Wiswell's Inlet. Our sledge was heavily laden, 
especially with how (walrus hide) for dog food, and walrus beef 
for our own eating; but the traveling was good, and we made 
better progress than I had expected, arriving at the place named 
at about 4 P.M. 

Then Sharkey and Koojesse proceeded to build an igloo in the 
regular manner, which may be described thus: They first sound- 
ed or "prospected" the snow with their seal-spears to find the 




Uabvoomm; A WAI.UUE). 



IGLOO BUILDING. 505 

most suitable for that purpose. Then one commenced sawing 
out snow blocks, using a hand-saw, an implement now in great 
demand among the Innuits for this purpose; the blocks having 
been cut from the space the igloo was to occupy, the other Innuit 
proceeded to lay the foundation tier, which consisted of seventeen 
blocks, each three feet long, eighteen inches wide, and six inches 
thick. Then commenced the "spiraling," allowing each tier to 
fall in, dome-shaped, till the whole was completed, and the key- 
stone of the dome or arch dropped into its place, the builders be- 
ing within during the operation. When the igloo was finished 
the two Innuits were walled in ; then a square opening was cut 
at the rear of the dwelling, and through this Smith and I passed 
some snow blocks which we had sawed out. These Sharkey and 
Koojesse chipped or " minced" with their snow-knives, while Tu- 
nukderlien and Jennie trod the fragments into a hard bed of snow, 
forming the couch or dais of the igloo. This done, the women 
quickly erected on the right and left the fire-stands, and soon had 
fires blazing, and snow melting with which to slake our thirst. 
Then the usual shrubs, kept for that purpose, were eventy spread 
on the snow of the bed-place ; over that was laid the canvas of 
my tent, and over all were spread tuktoo furs, forming the bed. 
When the work had been thus far advanced, the main door was 
cut out of the crystal white wall, and the walrus meat and other 
things were passed in. Then both openings were sealed up, and 
all within were made happy in the enjoyment of comforts that 
would hardly be dreamed of by those at home. 

I must here mention an incident which shows that the Innuits 
are equal to any emergency which may arise in their own coun- 
try. For my supper I had some pemmican soup, but, on tasting 
it, it was too fresh, and we had no salt. What could we do? In 
a moment that was decided. Sharkey, on hearing what was 
wanted, took his knife and cut down into the snow floor of the 
igloo, in less than a minute coming to salt water. This aston- 
ished me, and I asked how it was that salt water had thus got 
above the main ice. They replied that the great depth of snow 
on the ice pressed it down. 

During that day's trip I found that two puppies formed part of 
our company. Their mother was an excellent sledge-dog of i »n 
team. The pups were carried in the legs of a pair of fur breech- 
es, and they rode on the sledge when traveling. Every time we 
made a stop they were taken out of their warm quarters and giv- 



506 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

en to the mother for nursing. When to arrived at our encamp- 
ment above referred to, Sharkey built up a small snow hut for 
the parent dog and her offspring. The Innuits take as much care 
of their young dogs as they do of their children, and sometimes 
even more. 

The following day, April 8th, I found that some of my Green- 
land dogs were missing. This consequently delayed me. All I 
could do was to wait patiently until they were recovered from 
Oopungnewing, to which place they had returned. Koojesse and 
Sharkey went out after young seals, and came back with one, its 
coat white and like wool. In the evening we had our supper 
from a portion of this seal, and never did I eat more tender meat. 
It were "a dainty dish to set before a king." But the great del- 
icacy we enjoyed was milk. Every young seal has usually in its 
stomach from a pint to a quart of its mother's milk. The Innuits 
consider this a luxury, either raw or boiled, and so do I. I par- 
took of this milk, eating some of it first raw, and afterward some 
of it boiled. It had the taste of cocoanut milk, and was white 
like that of a cow. 

The next two days, April 9th and 10th, were spent at the same 
encampment, though on the former day I explored Wiswel] Inlet 
to its northernmost limit. On the morning of the 11th we pro- 
ceeded on our journey. As we neared Peter Force Sound, a 
sledge party of Innuits met us, and it was soon found that we 
were mutual friends. They were stopping on an island close by 
Nouvarn, and intended to go up the bay ; I therefore expected to 
meet them again. We arrived at a place on the ice near Brew- 
ster's Point, on the western side of Peter Force Sound, and the two 
male Innuits immediately began to erect an igloo. The two wom- 
en started off, each with dog and hook, to hunt for seal igloos, and 
in five minutes Jennie's loud voice announced that Tunukderlien 
had captured a young seal. Instantly Koojesse and Sharkey 
dropped their snow-knife and saw, leaped the walls of their partly- 
erected igloo, and hastened with all speed to the women. Henry 
and I had preceded them ; but, after we had all started, I remem- 
bered that we had left our walrus meat and other provision ex- 
posed to the dogs ; I therefore directed Henry to return and look 
out for them. 

On reaching the place of capture, we found that Tunukderlien 
Lad beneath her feet a young seal alive and kicking. Koojesse 
immediately made a line fast to one of its hind flippers, and al- 



A SEAL'S IGLOO. 507 

lowed the seal to re-enter the igloo where it had been caught. As 
this was something new and interesting to me, I intently watched 
what followed. The seal was perhaps two or three weeks old, 
and, like all young seals, was white, though not as white as un- 
tainted snow. While Koojesse kept hold of the line, four or five 
fathoms long, the seal worked itself hastily back into the igloo, its 
birthplace, and there made a plunge down the seal-hole into the 
sea. Koojesse allowed it the whole play of his line, crawling into 
the igloo, taking the seal-hook with him, and waiting patiently 
for the parent seal to come up. I was close by him, there being 
just sufficient room through the opening made when the young 
seal was caught for me to push myself in. There, lying flat down, 
we both carefully watched. In three or four minutes the young 
seal returned, popping up its round, shining head, and blowing or 
puffing like a whale, though on a reduced scale, its large eyes 
glistening like lights from twinkling stars. It came directly to 
its bed-place where we reclined. As it attempted to crawl up, 
Koojesse gave it a stroke on the head, signifying "Go away — 
dive down — show to your mother that you, the darling of her af- 
fections, are in trouble, and when she comes to your aid I'll hook 
her too." The two women were now close by us, each with a 
seal-dog, and while thus waiting I had a good opportunity for in- 
specting a seal's igloo. It was a model of those which the Innuits 
make for themselves, and was completely dome-shaped. It was 
five feet or so in diameter, and two and a half feet high, with a 
depth of snow above it of some five feet. The platform of sea- 
ice was where the parent seal gave birth to its 3-oung, and after- 
ward nursed it. On one side was the seal-hole, filled with sea- 
watrr, which was within two inches of the top of the platform. 

After waiting some time, and finding that the old seal would 
not show itself, the young one was withdrawn and placed on the 
snow. Then Koojesse put his foot upon its back, between the 
fore-arms or flippers, and pressed with all his weight, the object 
being to kill the seal by stopping its breath. Innuits adopt this 
mod.' in preference to using knife or spear. It prevents the loss 
of what is to them the precious portion — the blood. 

On returning to our encampment, we found that the doers had 
mad. 3 sad havoc with our walrus meat and blubber, and other 
things in general. However, as it could not now be hi 
we put up with it. Our supper that night was blessed cold 
r, chunks of cold pemmican, and raw frozen walrus nr 



508 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

The following day, April 12th, while Sharkey and Koojesse 
were engaged in the locality of my third encampment hunting 
young seal, I started, accompanied by m}' attendant, Henry Smith, 
to explore another bay which appeared to run up some distance 
beyond Peter Force Sound. I expected to be able to go and re- 
turn in one day, and therefore made no preparations beyond tak- 
ing half a pound of pemmican and a quarter of a pound of Bor- 
den's meat-biscuit, intended for our lunch. As I wished to keep 
a careful account of the distance traveled, I took the line used by 
me when on the Greenland coast, near Holsteinborg, in drawing 
out of the great deep many a cod and halibut, and measured off 
with tape-line sevent}r-five feet ; my log then consisted of a cold 
chisel used by me in cutting out my rock pemmican. 

It should be said, however, that previous to this time, and on 
all subsequent occasions when my whole company were with me, 
and all our provision was to be carried, no one could ride on the 
sledge, the dogs having difficulty even in dragging their necessary 
load. Consequently, at such times, all my measurements between 
my astronomically-determined points had to be made by pacing — 
a tolerably accurate, but, withal, a very tiresome method of work- 
ing. 

I found many apparent heads to the bay during my passage 
up, and at each turn it seemed as if we had reached the termina- 
tion ; but, on making the several points of laud, others were found 
beyond. 

After some hours of travel the dogs became very tired, the 
snow allowing them to sink to their bodies at every step. It was 
growing late ; a snow-storm was coming on ; to return was im- 
possible; we therefore set about making ourselves as comforta- 
ble as circumstances would allow. We had no snow-knife, but 
an impromptu igloo was planned which we built of the sledge 
and snow, getting out the blocks of the latter in the best way 
possible, that is to say, with a broken sledge-beam. 

When the igloo was finished, and before the door was sealed 
up, we took in the dogs, and were soon really comfortable. The 
storm came down fearfulty, but we were well protected ; the beat- 
ing snow sought an entrance, but could find none. Fortunately, 
we had saved a piece of the pemmican from our lunch, and this 
served to give us just a mouthful for supper ; some fragments of 
the meat-biscuit also remained ; and after this frugal repast and 
some pipes of tobacco, we retired to our snow bed. I had one 



WHITE MAN'S IGLOO.— THIS STORM. 509 

dog for my feet-warmer, another for my pillow, while a third was 
arched at my back. Henry was also comfortably provided for. 
My diary for that day, written in the igloo of a white man's in- 
vention, concludes as follows : 

"Now within a few minutes of midnight. Hark! a singular 
noise strikes the ear. Perhaps it is a polar bear! We listen. 
Again the same alarming noise. Another sound, and we determ- 
ine its source. It is the snoring of one of the dogs ! So good- 
night to all the sleeping world. Heaven bless all those who need 
it ; none needs it more than myself." 

The next morning, April 13th, I arose from my snowy couch 
at five o'clock, knocked my head against the snow door, made my 
way over its ruins on all-fours, then stood erect and looked 
around. The heavens seemed to indicate the dawn of a beautiful 
day. I called up Henry, and soon the dogs were harnessed, when 
we proceeded toward the head of this narrow bay — Newton's 
Fiord,* as I named it — which we reached at 7 A.M. The termi- 
nation I found to consist of a broken narrow plain, walled by a 
line of mountains on either side. 

Before we reached this spot the snow commenced falling, 
though the fall was accompanied by no wind, and the weather 
was very thick. Soon after seven we started on our return jour- 
ney to our encampment, and at nine o'clock we were abreast of 
the place where we had passed the previous night. At that time 
the wind was freshening, and it was snowing hard. Our passage 
thence to the place of our encampment was very difficult. Not 
only had we to encounter a severe northwest gale, charged with 
cold at 32° below the freezing-point, accompanied by drift-snow 
filling the air so thickly that often no objects at three fathoms' dis- 
tance could be seen, but the dogs became perfectly exhausted from 
being overworked, and from going long without food. On mak- 
ing inquiries of Henry Smith, I learned that Sharkey and Koojesse 
had been feeding their own dogs and neglecting my "Grccnland- 
ers," which were now just on the point of giving out. Two of 
them were so knocked up before reaching home that they could 
not pull a pound; one was so fatigued that he repeatedly fell 
down. I was obliged to lead the way for several miles by the 
compass, it being impossible to see the land, though the fiord was 
only from half a mile to two miles wide. 

" Named after O. E. Newton, M.D., of Cincinnati, Ohio. The termination of 
Newton's Fiord is in lat. G3° 22' N., long. CG° 0,v V. 



510 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 




THE BETUIIN FUOil SL 



During the afternoon the sun shone down through the storm 
that seemed only hugging the earth. For the last nine miles 
which I made along by the west side of the fiord and Peter Force 
Sound, the mountains would every few moments show a shaded 
contour — a ghost-like faintness — by which I was enabled to make 
my course without the compass. When within two miles of the 
igloos I came upon our sledge-tracks of the day before, and these 
I followed carefully while they were visible; but, with all my 
care, the track was soon lost; and as the land was again closed 
from view, we should have been in grievous difficulty had not 
the compass guided me. The risk was indeed great ; for in such 
a storm we might easily have gone out to sea, or the ice of the 
bay on which we were traveling might have broken up and car- 
ried us away. 

Providentially, we reached the encampment — my fifth, as I 
called it, which was the same as the third — at 5 10 P.M., find- 
ing Sharkey on the look-out, anxiously awaiting us, while Koo- 
jesse was out in search of me. The Innuits, all through the pre- 
vious night, had kept my lantern suspended to a pole by the igloo 
as a beacon light. Ilot suppers were quickly prepared for us by 
the women, and we soon retired to rest. 



FIGHTING THE HUNGRY DOGS. 511 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Continue the Journey up Frobisher Bay. — Arrive at Beauty Bay. — The Sledge at- 
tacked by hungry Dogs. — Meeting with Friends. — Bereavement of old Allokee 
and his Wife. — Death of Tweroong. — Heart-rending Particulars. — A Seal-feast. 
— A sudden Excitement. — Strange Visit of an Angcko. — Parting with Allokee. 
— Visit to the Grinnell Glacier. — Ascent by Polar Bear Tracks. — A Sea of Ice. — 
An exciting Journey back. 

Dckixg the day, April 14th, 1862, 1 remained quiet in the ig- 
loo, engaged in writing and working up observations. On the 
loth I made a trip up the east arm of Peter Force Sound ; and 
on the 16th we left the fifth (same as third) encampment, and pro- 
ceeded on up Frobisher Bay. We made but slow progress on ac- 
count of sealing, there being a necessity for obtaining all the food 
that could be found. Six of us, besides the dogs, required a large 
quantity. After journeying seven miles, we made our next en- 
campment on the ice a few paces from a point of land forming 
the west cape of a pretty little bay, which, on the boat-voyage in 
the previous fall, I had called Beauty Bay. That night we had a 
different kind of dwelling from the one ordinarily occupied by 
us. The weather was now occasionally warm enough to admit 
of half igloo and half tupic, which was made by omitting the 
dome, and placing tent-poles, covered with canvas, on the snow 
walls. 

An exciting scene occurred while the igloo wall was being 
erected. Koojesse and Sharkey were at work on the building, 
while Henry and I removed every thing from the sledge. We 
being at some little distance, the dogs suddenly sprung in a pack 
upon the sledge, and each snatched a piece of the meat and blub- 
ber still remaining upon it. With a club in my hand and a seal- 
spear in Henry's, we belabored them lustily, but they were so 
hungry that it really seemed as if they cared nothing for blows. 
As a piece of meat was rescued from the jaws of one, another, 
and perhaps two others, as quickly bad it. Blow followed blow ; 
dogs flew this way and that, all acting like devils, determined to 
conquer or die in their devouring work. It was quite five min- 
utes before the battle was through, and not then till Konje.«e 



512 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 




WE MUST CONQUKB 01'. BTAJtVli 



leaped the walls of the igloo and came to our assistance. During 
this melee, Henry unfortunately broke the wood portion of Koo- 
jesse's oo-nar (seal-spear), and this enraged the Innuit to a degree 
not easily to be described, for no instrument is constructed by the 
natives with more care than this. 

The following day, April 17th, I made an exploring trip up 
Beauty Bay, and on my return found that our igloo had fallen in. 
The sun was now becoming so powerful that the upper tier of 
the snow wall melted, and brought down the top and poles upon 
the two women who were within, and were consequently over- 
whelmed in the ruins. 

Next morning, April 18th, at 9 A.M., we again started, taking 
a course direct for Gabriel's Island of Frobisher, in the main bay, 
called by the Innuits Ki-li-tul--ju-a. Our progress was slow, ow- 
ing to the heavy load and the poor condition of the dogs ; and at 
noon, symptoms of a gale coming on, it was deemed advisable to 
make for shelter. Before we could obtain it, the gale had burst 
upon us, filling the air with the " white dust" of the country. 
Presently we saw an Innuit in the distance approaching, and, aft- 



SAD DEATH OF TWEEOOXG. 513 

er winding in and out among numerous small islands, we met 
him. It proved to be Ninguarping, son of Kokerjabin, out seal- 
bunting. He said there were other Innuits not far oft', among 
them Miner and Kooperneung, with their families, and we quick- 
ly made toward them. I was glad to learn that these Innuits 
were so near; for I thought I would take my dogs and sledge, 
and run up from my next encampment to see my good friend 
Tweroong. I should have been sadly disappointed had I done 
so, as will soon appear. Ninguarping then accompanied us to 
the spot selected for our encampment, and assisted in building an 
igloo. Soon a sledge of Innuits, with a team of fourteen dogs, 
came bounding wildly toward us. They were quickly alongside, 
proving to be our friends " Jack" and " Bill," on their way to an 
island not far off for a load of walrus beef which was deposited 
there. They invited us to go to their village. This we did, aban- 
doning our half-completed igloo. 

We arrived about 4 P.M., and found a village of five igloos, all 
inhabited by Innuit families, composed of my old friends and ac- 
quaintances. Old Too-Ioo-ka-ah was one of the first whom I saw, 
and he invited me to his capacious igloo, where his wife, Koo-muk, 
quickly gave me water to drink and food to eat, the latter being 
portions of frozen walrus entrails. To say that I enjoyed this 
food would only be to repeat what I have said before, though, no 
doubt, many will feel surprised at my being able to eat, as I so 
frequently did, raw meat, contents of tuktoo paunch, entrails of 
seals and walrus, whale skin and krang, besides drinking train-oil 
and blood. 

In the previous December, when on my trip to Jones's Cape 
after skins, I saw Toolookaah and his wife, and was both sur- 
prised and gratified to learn that she had an infant ; it was a girl 
of only two weeks, and bad been named Ek-ker-hon. Toolooka- 
ah was at this time, as I thought, sixty years old, and his wife 
not less than fifty-five years. When I now saw the parents again 
on this journey of which I am writing, I inquired for the child, 
and received the mournfully sad reply, "Tuk-a-iuoke," meaning it 
is dead. 

I should add to this record the news I received at the same 
time of the death of my never-to-be-forgotten friend Tweroong. 
Oo-soo-kar-lo, son of old Potato, told me that she had died several 
weeks before. Some days later I obtained the details of her 
death, and they were truly heart-rending When her husband, 

K K 



514 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

''Miner," and her son, "Charley," removed from Oopungnewing 
a few weeks before this time, Tweroong was unable to walk, and 
had to be carried on a sledge. After going a few miles up Fro- 
bisker Bay, an igloo was built for her, when she was placed in it, 
without any food, and with no means of making a fire-light, and 
then abandoned to die alone. A few days after some Innuits 
visited the igloo and found her dead. 

The next day, April 19th, in the afternoon, I received an invi- 
tation from old Petato to come into her igloo and partake of a 
seal-feast. Taking Henry Smith along with me, I accompanied 
Oosookarlo to the place indicated. We found Petato seated on 
her dais, with an immense stone pot hanging over the full blazing 
ikkumer; the pot was filled with smoking-hot seal and seal soup; 
Sharkey, Kopeo, his wife and infant, and several young Innuits, 
were there, awaiting the " good time coming." Petato, the pre- 
siding genius, took out a piece of the seal with her hands and 
gave it to me, doing the same by the others. Before I had half 
finished mine, the old lady handed me another and a larger piece : 
but, without difficulty, I did ample justice to all of it. Henry de- 
clared he never partook of a meal he relished more. The second 
course was seal soup, of which Petato gave me a huge bowl full ; 
this is the nectar of a seal-feast. After I was supplied, another 
bowl, of a capacity equivalent to four quarts, was placed on the 
floor for the dog to wash with his pliant tongue; when he had 
lapped it clean, outside as well as within, it was filled with the 
luscious soup, which the Innuits at once disposed of, taking turns 
at the bowl. 

Later in the evening, as I was seated in my own igloo sur- 
rounded by my company, I heard a loud Innuit shout just out- 
side. As quick as thought, Koojesse, Sharkey, Tunukderlien, and 
Jennie sprang for the long knives lying around, and hid them 
wherever they could find places. My first thought was that a 
company of warlike Innuits were upon us, and I asked Koojesse 
the meaning of all this. He replied, "Angeko! angeko!" Im- 
mediately there came crawling into the low entrance to the igloo 
an Innuit with long hair completely covering his face and eyes. 
He remained on his knees on the floor of the igloo, feeling round 
like a blind man at each side of the entrance, back of the fire- 
light, the place where meat is usually kept, and where knives 
may generally be found. Not finding any, the angeko slowly 
withdrew. I asked Koojesse what would have been the conse- 



LIVING ON DOG FOOD. 515 

quence if the angeko bad found a knife; be replied tbat be — tbc 
angeko — would bave stabbed bimself in tbe breast. 

On April 22d we broke up our encampment, all tbe Iuuuits, 
with tbe exception of Toolookaah's family, being about removing 
up Frobisher Bay. Two families, including Petato, Kopeo, Oo- 
sookarlo, witb tbe wives and children of the two men, were to 
go with me one day's journey at least. Old Toolookaah, who 
was to remain behind, wore a sorrowful face on account of my 
departure. I find in my diary the following record : " Tbis no- 
ble, free-hearted Innuit loves me, I do believe ; I know tbat I love 
him. TVe have now been acquainted more than a year; have 
voyaged together, have shared perils of storms and the glory of 
sunshine, have feasted together, slept beneath the same tupic, 
have been, as it were, father and son. Successful be bis sealing, 
his tuktoo hunts, and his conflicts with the polar bear — tbe lion 
of tbe North ; and, at last, peace and glory to his noble soul. 
When all were ready for a start this morning, this old Innuit ac- 
companied me from the island some distance on the ice. At last 
we locked bands, and, with prolonged " terboueties," tears start- 
ing in his eyes and rolling down his iron-ribbed face, wc parted, 
probably never to meet again on earth." 

Throughout our day's journey there was a continuous gale, 
with snow-drift closing all from our view ; but we finally reached 
our next encampment, on a small island above Kikitukjua, at 
4 30 P.M., having gone nearly nine miles. 

The following day we parted with Petato and my other Innuit 
friends', and proceeded some five or six miles direct toward Kin- 
gaite coast, making our ninth encampment* on tbe main ice clear 
of land. 

"We were obliged to remain here encamped for ten days, the 
desperate struggle being to get enough to sustain life. My hunt- 
ers and sealers, Sbarkey and Koojesse, went down every fair day 
a distance of five miles to the open water, where were white 
whales, seals, and ducks in abundance, but they were then all so 
shy that it was impossible to approach them within killing dis- 
tance. That they might be successful was our earnest wish, for 
we were living mostly on dog food — how — that is, walrus bide 
with hair on. Besides, we had no oil for the lamp, and without 
the lamp we were unable to obtain fresh water. 

* The ninth encampment was in lat. 62° 51' N., long. CG° 40' W., Jue cast of 
Gabriel's Island, and midway of it and Kingaiie coast. (See Chart.) 



516 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

One day they came home successful, having caught a seal, the 
first of the season, and uo happier beings could exist thau vre 'were 
for the time at the feast of raw seal that followed. In the even- 
ing of the next da}-, April 2Sth, Koojesse and Sharkey drove up 
■with two seals, one of about 200 pounds' weight, and the other 
weighing 100 pounds. This was success indeed, and it enabled 
them to feed the dogs as well as ourselves. By this time the 
weather had become so warm that we could not keep our igloo 
dry, and it was resolved to erect a tupic or tent. This finished, 
we moved into it ; and a few minutes after we had vacated our 
old home, down fell the igloo a mass of ruins. 

On May 1st, 1862, 1 started from this encampment on a trip to 
Kingaite coast. While Henry was engaged harnessing up the 
dogs, I put together my instruments, a little bag of rock pemmi- 
can, and some Borden meat-biscuit, of which I had saved merely 
a trifle for use on excursions of this kind. Sharkey, with sledge 
and dogs, was ready, and, after a good hot breakfast, we started, 
at 7 -±0 A.M., for the point I had selected — near the President's 
Seat — viz.. that where an ascent could probably be made of the 
glacier which I had seen on my voyage up the bay the previous 
fall. 

My course across the bay to Kingaite coast was south 4° east, 
true. The number of dogs in the team was ten, but, as they were 
in poor condition, we made but three and a half to four and a half 
miles per hour. In crossing the bay we found abundance of hum- 
mocky ice, and the snow-wreaths were numerous, abrupt, and 
high. A few minutes before noon we drew into a small bay that 
extended on toward the point I sought to reach. "With great so- 
licitude, I watched that part of the heavens in which the sun was. 
but, to my deep regret, the thick clouds were as a veil between 
my eyes and it. I had my instruments in readiness in case the 
sun should show itself for a few moments. If I could have got 
two solar observations, keeping correct account of the time elaps- 
ing between, by which to obtain accurately the " hour angle," I 
should have done so, for thus I could have determined my actual 
latitude ; but the clouds were too thick for the sun's rays to pen- 
etrate them. I kept, however, a careful account of my course 
and of the distance made, by which I determined the latitude of 
Kingaite coast where I struck it. 

As the dogs turned up the narrow bay leading to the point of 
land we were making, I was delighted to see the face of an abut- 



VISIT TO GRINNELL GLACIER. 519 

ting glacier, which fully proved the truth of my anticipations that 
there were iceberg discharges on Kingaite side. At noon our 
progress was arrested by the glacier, which seemed to smile a de- 
fiance — " thus far, and no farther." 

Here, by this crystal wall, I stood, in admiration and awe be- 
holding its beauty and grandeur. My Innuit companion seemed 
satisfied and gratified in witnessing the effect it had upon me. I 
turned and took a look seaward. A few degrees of opening be- 
tween the points of land leading into the harbor in which we were 
gave a view bounded only by the sea horizon. My quickened 
thoughts almost made me exclaim, "Tell us, time-aged crystal 
mount, have you locked in your mirror chambers any images of 
white man's ships, that sailed up these waters near three centuries 
ago?" This train of fancy-painting was soon dissipated by the 
substantial reality of a lunch on cold rock pemmican and gold- 
dust (Borden's pulverized meat-biscuit), washed down with chips 
from the glacier, after which we were prepared for an attempt 
to scale the ice-mountain. This could be done only by ascend- 
ing one of the rock ridges flanking the abutting arm of the glacier, 
and thence striking up its steep side. 

For the first quarter of a mile it was very abrupt, and difficult 
to climb. The most laborious and dangerous part of the ascent 
was accomplished by following the footsteps of a polar bear. My 
" illustrious predecessor" had evidently ascended the glacier some 
time previous, just after a fresh fall of snow, impacting it by his 
great weight into such hard steps that the gales had no effect in 
destroying them. These polar-bear steps made it feasible for us 
to ascend where we did. After the first quarter of a mile the in- 
clination of the glacier was gradual, then for a quarter of a mile 
farther it became greater, but it did not so continue. Each side 
of this arm of the glacier was walled in by mountains, the east 
side by the group I called the President's Scat. 

On making two miles — S. 16° E., true — we arrived where the 
glacier opens to a sea of ice. At this time and point the gla- 
cier was covered with snow, with a cropping out here and there 
of the clear crystal blue ice, giving relief to the view of an appar- 
ently illimitable sea of white around. My Innuit companion, be- 
ing well experienced in all the coast from Karmowong, a place 
on the north side of Hudson's Straits, to Resolution Island, and 
all about Frobisher Bay, said that this great glacier extended far, 
far below where we then were, and also continued on northwest 



520 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

a great way, reaching over also nearly to Hudson's Straits. From 
the information I had previously gained, and the data furnished 
me by my Innuit companion, I estimated the Grinnell glacier to 
be fully 100 miles long. At various points on the north side of 
Frobisher Bay, between Bear Sound and the Countess of War- 
wick's Sound, I made observations by sextant, by which I determ- 
ined that over fifty miles of the glacier was in view from and 
southeast of the President's Seat, A few miles above that point 
the glacier recedes from the coast, and is lost to view by the Ev- 
erett chain* of mountains ; and, as Sharkey said, the ou-u-e-too 
(ice that never melts) extends on wes-se-too-ad-loo (far, very far off). 
He added that there were places along the coast below what I 
called the President's Seat where this great glacier discharges it- 
self into the sea, some of it large icebergs. 

From the sea of ice down to the point where the abutting gla- 
cier arrested my advance with sledge and dogs, the ice-river or 
arm of the glacier was quite uniform in its rounding up, present- 
ing the appearance — though in a' frozen state — of a mighty rush- 
ing torrent. The height of the discharging face of the glacier 
was 100 feet above the sea. 

Without doubt, the best time of the year to travel over glacier 
mountains is just before the snows have begun to melt. The 
winter snows are then well impacted on the glacier surface, and 
all the dangerous cracks and water-ditches are filled up. Storms 
and gales do good work with snow-flakes once within their fin- 
gers. Grinnell Glacier, f a limited portion of which was visited, 
would, in three and a half or four months' time, present quite a 
different appearance. Now it was robed in white ; then, below 
the line of eternal snow, it would be naked, clear, bright, flashing- 
cerulean blue meeting the eye of the observer. This contrast I 
have seen. When on my boat-voyage up the bay in the previ- 
ous fall, this great glacier of Kingaite heaved heavenward its 
hoary head, supported by a body of crystal blue : on my return 
the same was covered with its winter dress. Before the cold 
weather sets in, all the crevices in the glacier are charged with wa- 
ter, which, congealing, is caused to expand ; and the ice explodes 
with a sound like loud thunder, rending the mountains and shoot- 
ing off icebergs and smaller fragments at the various points where 
the glacier has its arms reaching down to the sea. 

* Named after Edward Everett. For location of "Everett Chain," see Chart. 
t This great glacier I named after Henry Grinnell. Its height, in the vicinity of 
President's Seat, is 3500 feet. 



DANG EBOUS TRAVELING. 



521 



After some time spent on the glacier, of which my view was 
not so extensive or protracted as it would have been but for the 
clouds that capped the heights where we were, my companion and 
myself returned to the sledge. I then walked to the shore and 
obtained a few geological sj^ecimens, and we started on our way 
back to the ninth encampment. Two or three miles from the 
glacier we came to a small island. I took several bearings of 
distant objects and sextant angles for elevation of the mountain 
heights; but the wind began to freshen almost to a gale, and 
caused considerable risk in crossing the bay. There was a prob- 
ability of the floe cracking off and drifting us to seaward ; the 
open water was within a mile of our course, and the floe, giving 
way, would have been swept rapidly to the southeast. My driver 
was constantly urging the dogs to their greatest speed while mak- 
ing passage over the most dangerous part of the way. Fortu- 
nately no mishap occurred, and we arrived at the tupic in the 
eveninsr. 




M7 SLEDGE-LOG, Ll>'E AKD KEEL. 



522 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Innuit Food. — Picture of a Dinner-party. — Rabbit-charming. — Proposed firing Trip. 
— Freaks of Jennie. — Her Foot-race after the Sledge. — Feminine Coquetry. — 
Sharkey's Despair. — Change of Plans. — Koojesse's Ugliness — Final Adjustment 
of Plan. — Departure on flying Trip. — An Upset. — Wolves. — Chase of a Bear and 
Cub. — Capture of the latter. — Night Traveling. — Return to Place of Starting. — 
Set out for the Ship. — Arrive on Board. 

On leaving our ninth encampment on Saturday, May 3d, 1862, 
we proceeded toward some islands nearly due east of us, and, aft- 
er a journey often miles, came to M'Lean Island,* where we found 
two igloos occupied by the Innuits Koo-kin and "Bill," with 
their families. We were hospitably received, aud made our tenth 
encampmentf there. 

I was now living wholly on Innuit food, to which I had be- 
come so accustomed as to eat it without difficulty. "Were I to 
mention in detail what took place, and what was eaten at our 
meals, it would doubtless appear disgusting to most of my read- 
ers ; but there is no alternative in the matter of eating with In- 
nuits. One has to make up his mind, if he would live among 
that people, to submit to their customs, and to be entirely one of 
them. When a white man for the first time enters one of their 
tupics or igloos, he is nauseated with every thing he sees and 
smells — even disgusted with the looks of the innocent natives, 
who extend to him the best hospitality their means afford. Take, 
for instance, the igloo in which I had an excellent dinner on the 
day last mentioned. Any one from the States, if entering this 
igloo with me, would see a company of what he would call a dirty 
set of human beings, mixed up among masses of nasty, uneatable 
flesh, skins, blood, and bones, scattered all about the igloo. He 
would see, hanging over a long, low flame, the oo-koo-sin (stone ket- 
tle), black with soot and oil of great age, and filled to its utmost 
capacity with black meat, swimming in a thick, dark, smoking 

* Named after the late Judge John M'Lean. It is an island in the midst of Fro- 
bisher Bay, near to and due west of Gabriel's Island. 

t Our tenth encampment was near the southern extreme of M'Lean island, and 
was in lat. C2° 52' N., long. GG° 28' W. 



CHARMING RABBITS. 520 

fluid, as if made by boiling down the dirty scrapings of a butch- 
er's stall. He would see men, women, and children — my humble 
self included — engaged in devouring the contents of that kettle, 
and he would pity the human beings who could be reduced to 
such necessity as to eat the horrid stuff. The dishes out of which 
the soup is taken would turn his stomach, especially when he 
should see dogs wash them out with their long pliant tongues 
previous to our using them. But I will not multiply particulars. 

Sharkey this day saw a rabbit when out on the island hunting- 
partridges, but could not get a shot at it. If "Jennie," or any 
other female songster, had been with him, he would probabby 
have secured it. Innuits, when they go after rabbits, generally 
have such a vocalist with them. While she sings " charmingly" 
the sportsman is enabled to have a fair shot. The rabbit delights 
in listening to the music of a female Innuit voice, and will stop, 
sit up, and be shot under its charms. 

The scarcity of provisions, combined with the troubles I en- 
countered with the evil-disposed Innuits, Koojesse and Jennie, 
had been so great, that I had determined to abandon my journey 
farther up the bay, and return at once to the Countess of War- 
wick's Sound; but we now found ourselves so abundantly sup- 
plied that I concluded to take Sharkey, and, leaving the rest of 
my company at the place of the tenth encampment, to make a 
flying trip up the bay with sledge and dogs. Sharkey at first 
cheerfully assented to my proposition, but on May 6th he signi- 
fied to me his desire to take Jennie with him. I declined to ac- 
cede to this request, and he acquiesced in my decision, but Jennie 
flew into a rage. She put on her kodlins and dodged out of the 
igloo, attempting to run away ; Sharkey darted after her, and in 
about an hour they returned, on apparently amicable terms. 

The next morning, May 7th, I went on with my preparations 
for departure; the movements of Jennie showed plainly that she 
intended to go. When the sledge was nearly loaded, I went to 
Koojesse and asked him if Jennie was really going with us; he 
answered affirmatively, and I therefore called Sharkey into the 
igloo and talked with him. He acted nobly, telling Jennie that 
she must remain with Koojesse and Tunukdcrlien till our return, 
lie had previously bound her jacket and tuktoo bed upon the 
sledge, but at once threw them off, though I could sec that he had 
a mountain of trouble within. After much delay wc started. 

'When we were out on the sea-ice we kept a sharp watch of 



524 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Jennie's movements. She was out on the rocks, with her head 
turned to a bluff, and bellowing like an angeko while engaged in 
some of his incantations. In about half an hour she was discov- 
ered following us ; Sharkey closely examined her movements 
through the glass, and declared that she was indeed after us, and 
that she would travel all day and all night till she reached us. 
I at once decided to await her coming up, for my heart was moved 
for the poor fellow, who so fondly loved her, though she was un- 
worthy of his affection. 

When we paused for her to come up, Sharkey took the water- 
bag and the tin cup, and set out for an island at our left, distant a 
quarter of a mile, for water. His course was taken so that he in- 
tercepted Jennie when he was returning with his water to the 
sledge. She, however, paid no attention to him, but kept on, turn- 
ing neither to the right hand nor to the left. Sharkey called to 
her, but she turned not, still continuing her rapid gait, and proud- 
ly striking into her open hand a loose mitten she carried in the 
other. Sharkey quickened his pace to catch up with her, repeat- 
edly calling to her, but she walked stoically on. At length he 
overtook her, and tried to arrest her in her course. She threw 
him aside as if he were a viper, and walked on. Then Sharkey 
once more approached, and threw his arm around her caressingl}-. 
She gave no heed. Finally, in despair, he gave up, stooped down, 
buried his face in his hands, and poured out his weeping soul in 
a flood of tears. Then, rising up, he swung his arms about, and 
gave vent to his feelings in loud and broken cries, returning to 
the sledge, while the stubborn idol of his affections, with apparent 
indifference, pursued her way. 

I addressed him sympathizingly, my heart overflowing with 
love for my wounded friend. He pointed to his wife, who still 
trudged on, crying "Jennie! Jennie!" putting his hand on his 
heart and weeping. Under the circumstances, I decided to return 
to our encampment. As soon as we reached it, Sharkey started 
out with the dogs, ostensibly for the purpose of sealing. I knew, 
however, that his purpose was to go in pursuit of his wife. Some 
hours later he returned with Jennie, both apparently contented. 

I now at first thought I might as well give up this trip, and 
commence my return down the bay. Then I determined to take 
Henry as my dog-driver, and proceed to explore the bay alluded 
to on page 383, some fifty miles to the N.W. by W. of our tenth 
encampment. I had before believed that Koojesse was at the bot- 



A. II. WARD'S INLET. 525 

torn of Jennie's evil actions, and I now became thoroughly con- 
vinced of the fact ; for, when he heard of my latest plan, he seem- 
ed determined to put as many blocks in my way as possible. He 
consented, for a consideration, to let me have the use of his dogs, 
but refused to allow me to take my own tupic. Then I hinted a1 
returning at once to the ship ; but this did not suit him ; he want- 
ed to stop where we were several days ; and he declared that, if 
he was compelled to start the next day, the distance made would 
be "smalley." At last I offered him my rifle, which he wanted 
very much, if he would accompany me and do as he should on 
the trip I wished to make. His whole conduct changed immedi- 
ately from that of a bitter enemy to that of a cheerful friend. The 
arrangement was made that Koojesse and Sharkey were to go, 
while Jennie and Tunukderlien were to remain with Henry, the 
Innuits Kookin and " Bill" having agreed with me to supply them 
with food. My conviction that Koojesse was the instigator of 
Jennie's freaks prior to this received confirmation from the per- 
fect acquiescence of the woman in this plan after hearing a few 
words from him. 

So, after much trouble, with Koojesse and Sharkey as my com- 
panions for the trip, I again started at 9 A.M. of the 8th of May. 
Our progress on the firm ice was fair, our course northerly and 
westerly. In and out among numerous islands, and with a few 
stoppages to take bearings and make observations, we passed on 
for several miles, seeing places on the main land familiar to me, 
and finally, after twelve hours' travel, making a distance of twenty- 
three miles, encamped on Field's Island,-' at the entrance of Wad- 
dell Bay. The following day, May 9th, we were at the entrance 
to the bay — A. H. "Ward's Inlet,f as I named it — which I had so 
long desired to explore ; but, on the next, owing to bad weather 
and soft snow, we could proceed only a short distance. On the 
11th, however, we made rapid progress, passing on the cast side 
of a long island, the scenery magnificent, and, going through a 
place where the mountains almost meet, and which I call "The 
Narrows," finally arriving at the head of this truly romantic and 
beautiful inlet at about 2 P.M. 

Just before passing up through the Narrows, we saw that the 
ice ahead was completely riddled with seal-holes, and that seals 
in immense numbers were lying by them basking. Sharkey laid 

* Named after Dudley Field, of New York City. 

t Named after Augustus H.Ward, .f Xew York City. 



526 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 




TEEilOiATION OP WARD'S INLET — THE NAEEOWS ANT* ANN MAUIA POET. 



himself down, and proceeded with his gun to make the usual In- 
nuit approaches, as already described, toward a place where some 
seals were close together. At last he shot one, having been one 
hour and twenty-five minutes crawling up to within six fathoms 
of his prey. A raw and blood-warm seal-feast immediately fol- 
lowed, for this was the first thing secured for four days. Never 
did I enjoy any thing with a better relish. 

On the right of the extreme termination there' is a bold mount- 
am, with a ravine between it and the opposite side, which is grad- 
ually sloping. The bay or harbor between the Narrows and the 
termination of the inlet is indeed magnificent. After staying here 
as long as my time would permit, and having determined that no 
" strait'' or passage exists in this direction, I started on my return, 
and soon again arrived at the Narrows. Here the view below 
was one of the most interesting I had beheld since arriving North. 
From the Narrows, which is from one sixth to one third of a mile 
wide, to the termination of this arm of Ward's Inlet, is a distance 
of four miles. This beautiful sheet of water I have named Ann 
Maria Port* As we made our way through the Narrows on our 
return, the view, on looking down the inlet, was truly magnifi- 
cent. The long line of black, jagged, buttress-like mountains on 
either side of the pure white pathway before us presented a scene 
that I shall not soon forget. 

As we returned down this inlet, going at a slower rate than 

* Named after the wife of Augustus H. Ward. The head or termination is in lat. 
03° W N., long. G7° 48' W. Vide Chart. 



A BREAK-DOWN. 597 

usual, a seal was seen ahead. In an instant the dogs, which 
were very hungry, bounded off at a rate of not less than twelve 
miles an hour. The seal, frightened, made a plunge down into 
its hole ; the dogs, flying onward so furiously, passed it, hut the 
wind, carrying the smell of the seal to their noses, made them turn 
sharply round in a second. The consequence was that the sledge- 
runner caught in the snow-crust, and sent me heels over head 
off the sledge, to which my Innuit companions clung with all 
their might. The runners of this sledge were twelve feet long, 
and the left one was split from stem to stern ; but, though this 
was a serious disaster, yet no considerable regret was manifested 
on the part of the natives. Koojessc and Sharkey immediately 
set to work with their seal-spears, and succeeded in mortising 
three holes in the lower half of the runner in the short space of 
time that it took me to write the pencil notes recording the inci- 
dent. It was not long before the runner was strapped together, 
and we were again on our way down on the western side of the 
large island which we passed in the morning, I hoping not to see 
another seal that day. It was 10 P.M. when we arrived at the 
south end of the Kikitukjua — Augustus Island, as I called it — 
and made our fourteenth encampment. "We had traveled forty 
miles that day after leaving the thirteenth encampment, which 
was on a small island not far from the east side of Augustus Isl- 
and. "We slept soundly, though our couch was the bare rock. 
On the morning of the 12th, when we awoke, we found ourselves 
beneath a snow-drift — that is to say, some eight or ten inches of 
snow had fallen during the night, giving us a clean, warm cover- 
let. The weather being unpropitious for traveling, we remained at 
the same place during the day. The following day, May 18th, at 
10 A.M., we resumed our journey, passing along down by the coast 
of Becher Peninsula,* on the west side of the inlet, directing our 
course toward Mary's Island, the place of the twentieth encamp- 
ment of my boat expedition the previous fall. We had not pro- 
ceeded far on our way when a smart breeze from the northwest 
sprung up, and before we had made half the distance to Mary's 
Island it increased to a gale, accompanied with pelting drift, I 
know not that I ever experienced more disagreeable traveling 
than on this occasion. The snow flew furiously, eddying around 
our heads, and dropping down into our laps as we sat upon the 

* The land between Ward's Inlet and the main Bay of Frobishcr I thus named 
after Captain A. B. Becher, R.N., of London, England. Sec Chart. 



528 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

sledge with our backs to the gale. The sun was out with thaw- 
ing heat, melting the snows in our front, wetting our furs, while 
the temperature at our backs was 14° below the freezing mark. 
When we reached the point at the west side of the entrance to 
Ward's Inlet at 8 A.M., we were compelled to stop and go into 
camp. 

My notes, written upon the spot, read, "Stop on account of 
the driving gale and drift. Sharkey proceeds to make an igloo. 
Koojesse is sick — knocked up completely, while I am in perfect 
health." 

As I have said, the sun was out, notwithstanding the flying 
drift ; therefore I proceeded to occupy myself as usual in making- 
observations for time, and taking a round of angles, etc. 

I continue extracts from my rough and ready note-book of 
same date (May 13th) : " The gale abated 2 P.M., yet snow flying- 
thick over toward Kingaite. Thought of starting, but, desirous 
of having good and extensive views when I cross the Bay of Fro- 
bisher to Kingaite side, I decided to hold over till to-morrow. It 
will take two days' good weather to get back to the place of tenth 
encampment — perhaps three. Koojesse and Sharkey gathered 
from the mountain's side a skin jacket full of Northern wood 
(dwarf shrub), with which we cooked a soup. The dogs have no 
food. To supply them and ourselves, shall have to let the Inuu- 
its seal to-morrow. Gave Koojesse pills to-night ; he is badly off. 

" Wednesday, May lith. Up at 2 A.M. We cooked our break- 
fast of tuktoo and seal. Used the straw (dwarf shrub) of our 
beds for fuel. This morning, as a matter of trial of the pluck of 
my companions, I proposed to continue up to the head of Frobish- 
er Bay. The Innuits expressed a willingness to go. I have no 
idea of doing this, but now intend to cross Frobisher Bay to-day 
from Noo-ook-too-ad-loo, a small island close by Eae's Point, di- 
rect to Kingaite, and thence pass down by the coast to near 
where I had my ninth encampment, and then recross the bay to 
place of tenth encampment. The weather is thick this morning, 
but there is a bright streak along the horizon in the east. The 
dogs are very hungry. Last night they ate up the whip-lash, 
which was thirty feet long. They are voracious. I witnessed a 
sight some days since of a hungry dog swallowing down a piece 
of kow (walrus hide and blubber) one inch and a half square and 
six feet long in seven seconds 1 The act I timed by chronome- 
ter." 



CROSSING FKOBISHER BAY. 529 

At 5 A.M. we left the place of sixteenth encampment, directing 
our course to the westward, and in two hours arrived at the island 
Noo-ook-too-ad-loo, which Sharkey and myself ascended. Here 
we saw some partridges and many rabbit tracks. One of the for- 
mer Sharkey shot. While on this island I took a round of an- 
gles, sighting various important points necessary toward com- 
pleting my chart of the bay. Thence we departed at 9 A.M., 
striking nearly due west to cross the Bay of Frobisher. We 
found the ice very rough, and consequently our progress was 
slow. A few minutes before twelve, meridian, as we were about 
to enter among the numerous islands that lie across the bay, be- 
ginning at "Frobisher's Farthest," we stopped, when I proceed- 
ed to make observations for latitude, solar bearings, etc. When 
I found my position was such that various capes, promontories, 
islands, and inlets that I had visited were in sight, and knowing 
I could then better determine their relative geographical posi- 
tion, I was delighted, and especially so when I had the President's 
Seat dancing and circling round in the mirror of my sextant, 
till it finally rested on the mountain heights of Frobisher's Far- 
thest, on the exact spot where I had made astronomical obser- 
vations on the 22d of August, 1861, the previous year. Thence 
we proceeded among many islands, and came to a channel where 
we found a space of open water abounding in ducks and oth- 
er aquatic birds, and seals. Here the tide was rushing furious- 
ly through like a mill-race, and this prevented us from securing 
more than half of our game, for as the ducks and seals were shot 
they were liable to be carried rapidly away beneath the ice. 
Sharkey, however, shot and secured one seal which weighed 
about three hundred pounds, and also killed several brace of 
ducks. 

While the hunters were engaged at this work I took my in- 
struments and went upon the hill of an island to have a look 
around and to triangulate. When at the summit and quietly 
taking a survey, I heard a deep tiger-like growl. I listened, and 
glanced quickly in the direction whence it came. I saw nothing, 
and soon raised my sextant to my eye, when another and another 
growl assailed my ear. Again I looked around, but could see 
nothing, though I concluded it must be cither a polar bear or a 
wolf. Therefore, considering my unarmed state, and the distance 
I had climbed up the mount, away from all assistance, I thought 
the better part of valor in such a case was to beat a hasty retreat. 

Ll 



530 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



The distance to the sea-ice was one mile, and thence to where my 
companions were, another mile. I shall not soon forget that day's 
adventure. I awaited the fourth growl, and when that came I 
quickly packed up instruments and started on a run, turning ev- 
ery few moments to see whether I was ahead. In my course was 
a long drift of snow, and as I was making a rapid transit of this, 
a spot in it proved treacherously soft, which gave me a fall, and 
heels over head I went to the bottom of the hill. Fortunately it 
was the quickest and most direct passage I could make, and, as it 
happened, no bone or any thing else was broken. When I ar- 
rived back and told my companions what I had heard, they de- 
clared I had had a narrow escape from either hungry wolves or a 
polar bear. It was 4 30 P.M. when we resumed our way across 
Frobisher Bay. Having got fairly through the passage between 
the islands on the ice-foot, we turned southerly. We soon saw 
ahead immense numbers of seals out on the ice. They extended 
over a large area, and were so numerous that with my glass I 
could not count them. 

Just as we were turning off the ice to an island — J. K. Smith 
Island, as I named it — on which we had proposed to make our 
seventeenth encampment, three wolves appeared in sight, coming 
swiftly on our track, and presently on came a fourth — all most 




TUB HUNGRY WOLVES. 



ferocious - looking brutes. They were bold, approaching quite 
near, watching our movements, and now and then opening and 
snapping their teeth, and smacking their chaps, as if already feast- 
ing on human steaks and blood. We prepared for the fray by 
arming with rifle, gun, and spear, each ready to defend himself as 
best he could. Between the wolves and us was much hummocky 



THE HUNGRY WOLVES. 531 

ice. Behind this ice we placed ourselves, each seeking to get 
a good shot. Sharkey led in the attack, leveling his gun on the 
instant that one of these savage foes began to make its approach. 
The result was that the hungry wolf turned tail, and went off 
limping, minus a man-supper, his companions following hiin. 

After the excitement of this affair was partially over, Koojesse 
informed me that he had known many instances in which Innuits 
had been attacked, killed, and devoured by hungry wolves. "When 
once so attacked, it was generally sure death to the Innuit. It 
was, indeed, with thankful heart that I retired to my snowy couch 
that night, as I thought of my narrow escape from the very midst 
of that hungry pack, unarmed as I was, and far away from all 
help save that which is ever mighty to save. 

The following morning, May 15th, we were about to resume 
our journey, when, the wind having increased to a gale, accompa- 
nied with drift, and Koojesse being quite ill, we were obliged to 
hold over, and keep in the igloo all day. Our fare that day was 
raw seal and raw ducks. The ducks were very fat, the fat being 
like butter both in appearance and taste. 

In the morning of Frida3 r , the 16th, the weather was thick, and 
at times spitting snow. We were up at 3 A.M., intending to start 
early, and complete the crossing of Frobisher Bay to Kingaite 
coast; but the shore-ice by the island of our encampment was in 
such an impassable condition from ebb tide that we had to wait 
for the flood. At 7 30 we were under way, passing to the west- 
ward and northward for some time along the coast of Besor Isl- 
and* on our left, over the rough ice, and among the thousand and 
one islands of that part of Frobisher Bay. At 11 A.M. we ar- 
rived at White Island, which I had seen on m} r boat-vo}-age in 
the previous fall, and then thought very remarkable. On this oc- 
casion I landed to examine it and procure geological specimens. 

Thirty minutes after meridian we arrived close to a point of 
Kingaite coast, whence I could see what the natives call Sharlco 
(low land), where I had my eighteenth encampment of the boat- 
voyage in the fall of 1861. Having reached the point — Turn 
Point,-)- as I called it — where my survey of the Kingaite coast 
terminated when on that voyage, I turned about and resumed 
the survey, passing rapidly down a beautiful channel — Cincinnati 

* NnnW after William Rcsor, of Cincinnati, Ohio. The centre of this island is 
in lat. r,3° 16' N., long. CT' 66' W. 
t Turn Point is in lat. 03° 19' N., long. C8° 09' W. 



532 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



Press Channel, as I named it, in honor of the Associated Press of 
the Queen City — between Kingaite and Pugh Island.* 

At 8 P.M., while we pursued our journey down the channel, an 
exciting scene occurred. A polar bear, with its cub, was observed 
on the ice near the base of a bold high mountain. Immediately 
the dogs were stopped and the guns loaded. Koojesse forgot that 
he was lame and sick, and prepared to join us in the hunt. I, 
with spy-glass in hand, watched the bear's movements, and when 
all was ready, the dogs were again started. They soon caught 
sight of the prey, and bounded forward. While drawing us with 
great speed, and when within 200 fathoms, the draught-line of the 
leader was cut, and away he flew toward the bear. Then anoth- 
er, and then another of the running dogs was cut loose and sent 
in chase, until all were free from the sledge and in pursuit. 




TUE DEAB-1IU-NT. 



The bear, with her cub following, made her way over the bro- 
ken ice between the main ice and the shore, direct for the mount- 
ain steep, which they at once began to ascend. One of the dogs 

* Named after George E. Pugh, of Cincinnati, Ohio. This island is ten miles 
long, the centre being in lat. G3° 16' N., long. OS W. 



POLAR-BEAR-HUNT. 533 

had now neared them, and constantly attacked the cub until it 
became separated from its mother. Then another dog sprang 
at the hinder part of the old bear, which turned and made a 
plunge at the dog, causing both to tumble headlong down the de- 
clivity, which was so steep that I wondered how the bear could 
have ascended it. 

The fight now became earnest, and the dog yelped with pain, 
as the bear's paw came heavily upon him. Presently Bruin was 
obliged to turn again, and, with head swinging to and fro, and 
roaring plaintively on hearing the cries of her cub, she reascend- 
ed the mountain where it was impossible for dog or man to fol- 
low. The eleven dogs finally all took after the cub, which was 
part way up the mountain side, and, as one seized it, over rolled 
cub and dog together, and so came tumbling down. While Koo- 
jesse and Sharkey sought to get a shot at the old one, I went 
forward simply to see the fray between young polar and the dogs. 
On making my way from the main ice to the shore, the cub made 
a rush at me with jaws widely distended. I instantly placed my- 
self in position, prepared to receive the threatened shock. I re- 
ceived young polar on the point of my spear, having directed it 
well toward the neck, and pierced it through. The dogs at once 
flew to my aid, and soon the savage beast was flat over on its 
back. Withdrawing the spear, a stream of hot blood immediately 
poured forth ; and then, with heavy blows on the head, I broke in 
its skull, and thus killed it. I took it that my Innuit friends would 
rejoice on learning my success, but I soon found how mistaken I 
was in this idea. On showing them what I had done, they shrug- 
ged their shoulders and — said nothing. Of course I was sur- 
prised, and knew not what to make of such conduct, it being the 
reverse of what I had expected. It was not long before I learn- 
ed the mistake I had made in killing the j'oung bear. This I as- 
certained in the following way : While Koojesse and Sharkey 
were engaged skinning ar-luk-ta (young polar bear), I proposed to 
them to go into camp where we were. They objected to this. I 
then told them how desirous I was to remain in that locality for 
a day or so. My great and earnest object was. to ascend the high 
land close by, and connect together some of the points of my past 
and prospective visitation. I found that nothing whatever would 
induce them to stop and make encampment there. They said 
that the old bear would return in the night, and, smelling the 
blood of her young, she would be enraged to madness, and kill 



534 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 




YOUNG POLAE COMING TO TOE POIKT. 



all of us. Furthermore, they said that their people always avoided 
killing the young of a Nmoo till the old one was dead, from the 
very fact that the previous death of the offspring made the moth- 
er a hundred fold more terrible than she otherwise would be. The 
result of this matter was no camp there or about there that night. 
My companions, having completed their work of skinning the 
bear, buried in snow the liver and head, which Innuits never eat, 
nor allow their dogs to eat, if they can help it. However, one of 
my dogs, Barbekark, got loose from the sledge and found the liver, 
when the whole pack bolted away and pitched in for a share. 
The carcass of the bear was placed on the sledge, when (5 P.M.) 
we started on our way down the channel. In half an hour wc 
arrived at open water — a tide-opening one third of a mile long 
and thirty fathoms wide. Sharkey had told mc about this open 
water while we were at the 17th encampment, on occasion of my 
proposing to strike from thence to KingaitCj and continue down 



1 NX LIT PRECAUTION. 535 

the coast. Sharkey said it was altogether doubtful whether we 
should be able to do so, on account of the ou-kun-7u'er (an extend- 
ed opening in the ice caused by the tides). It seems that, during 
the coldest weather, these open places between the numerous isl- 
ands in this part of Frobisher Bay never freeze over on account 
of the swiftly-running tides. However, we experienced no great 
trouble in making our way over an ice-belt that led past this ou- 
Jcun-nicr. This space of open water abounded in seals. In the 
course of a few minutes Sharkey fired two shots, the last being 
successful, killing a fine large seal, which we soon had fast to the 
sledge. We now had a Ninoo and a seal — enough for a feast for 
both men and dogs. 

When at the tide-opening we were only one mile and a half 
from where we had killed the bear. This distance would not sat- 
isfy my friends by several miles for making encampment, there- 
fore, at 6 P.M., we resumed our journej r . A few minutes brought 
us to where the channel opened out to a beautiful bay, which I 
named Eggleston Baj-.* Our course then was over a smooth field 
of ice. After making a distance of some six miles from where the 
bear was killed, and as we were making good progress homeward 
directty down the bay, all at once the dogs were turned by the 
driver sharply to the left, nearly but not quite half round, and di- 
rected toward the south termination of Pugh Island, where we 
made our eighteenth encampment. Before we retired for the 
night the sledge was stuck up on end in an ice-crack, and the guns 
and spears were put in order, at the head of our couch, for imme- 
diate use, if occasion should require it. As I needed an explana- 
tion of some of these movements of my Innuit companions, so my 
readers may require one of me. I thus give it : The reason of 
going to such a distance from the scene of the bear-hunt before 
making our encampment has already been given. The sharp turn 
— nearly reversing our course — was designed, as the Esquimaux 
explained it, for a safeguard against pursuit by the enraged old 
bear. If she should attempt to pursue on our sledge-track, her 
movements would be rapid ; and, finding the track nearly in a 
straight line for so long a distance, she would become somewhat 
confident, " thinking" that the same undeviating course had been 
kept to the end ; therefore, on her reaching the place of the sharp 
turn, it might be unnoticed and unscented, and she would con- 

• Named after Benjamin Eggleston, of Cincinnati, Ohio. The centre of tliis liny 
is in lat. 03° 13' N., long. 68° "W. See Chart. 



536 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

tinue ber course some time longer before discovering ber mistake. 
But, in case sbe sbould track us to our igloo (our sixteentb, seven- 
teentb, and eigbteentb encampments were igloos or snow-bouses), 
tben tbe first tbing sbe would do would be to tbrow down tbe 
sledge (one of many tbings tbat polar bears do not like to see 
standing), and tbus we sbould be awakened, and put on our guard 
against tbe ferocious beast. But, happily, no enraged " sbe bear" 
made ber appearance. Tbe trick of tbe sharp turn may have 
saved us. 

The bladder of the young Nidfeo was kept hung up, at whatev- 
er place we happened to be, for three days, according to custom ; 
and that night we had an excellent supper off my prize, tbe flesh 
appearing and tasting like veal. 

On the morning of Saturday, May 17th, having first ascended 
tbe heights of the island of our encampment, and made the neces- 
sary observations for continuing my survey, we resumed our jour- 
ney down the bay, passing rapidly, on our right, Cape Poillon* 
and Newell's Sound, f and at our left Pike's Island,:): our course 
being along near the Kingaite coast and direct for Cape Vander- 
bilt,§ which point we reached at 3 40 P.M. On arriving there, I 
found it a capital point for connecting together much of my pre- 
vious work by a round of angles. Unfortunately, before I could 
accomplish much work in tbat line, a thick fog closed distant ob- 
jects from view. As I did not like to leave such a favorable 
point without additional sights, I proposed to mj r company to re- 
main there till the next clay. To this Koojesse, who was quite ill 
and peevish, obstinately objected. I therefore concluded to strike 
across tbe bay at once for the place of tenth encampment, our 
starting-point on this flying trip, which we had left on the 8th in- 
stant. At 5 17 P.M. we 5eft Cape Vanderbilt, purposing to travel 
all night. Our course was almost in line with Cape Hill,!| which 
is tbe south termination of Chase Island.^" 

* Named after Cornelius C. and Richard Poillon, of New York. This cape is in 
lat. G3° 11' N., long. 67° 49' W. 

t Named after Thomas W. Newell, of Cincinnati, Ohio. The north cape of this 
sound is Cape Poillon, the south cape Cape Vanderbilt. 

t Named after the house of Benjamin Pike & Sons, of New York. The centre of 
this island is in lat. 63° 13' N, long. G7° 44' \V. 

§ Named after Cornelius Vanderbilt, of New York. This cape is in lat. G3° 07' 
30" N., long. 67° 34' W. See Chart. 

I! Named after George H. Hill, of Cincinnati, Ohio. This cape is in lat. G2°54' 
N., long. 66° 37' W. 

% Named after Salmon P. Chase, of Ohio. It is one of the first group in middle 
of Frobisher Bay. The centre of this island is in lat. G2° oS' N., long. 66° 45' W. 



A SCENE OF GRANDEUR. 539 

Never shall I forget that night. It was very cold, and we sat 
on the sledge well clothed in furs, while the dogs flew merrily and 
at their most rapid rate. Occupying a place in the rear of all the 
rest, where all was clear for action, with the box chronometer un- 
der my eye, I threw the log every ten minutes, holding the reel 
up in my right hand.* We all felt the cold severely, and had re- 
course to various contrivances to keep some warmth in our limbs. 
No doubt I presented rather a grotesque appearance as I sat with 
native stockings on my hands now and then instead of outside 
mittens. Toward midnight we felt the want of shelter and rest ; 
but, in my own case, all sense of discomfort was banished by the 
beauty which Nature placed before me. The grandeur of Kin- 
gaite's grotto mountains that we were leaving behind us, with 
their contrasts of light and shade, as viewed in the night, and 
watched as light increased with advancing day, filled my soul 
with inexpressible delight. It was like beholding a mighty city 
of cathedrals, monuments, palaces, and castles overthrown by an 
earthquake, the ruins resting amid mountain drifts of snow. 

At 3 A.M. of the 18th, when near the islands which diversify 
Frobisher Bay in the locality between M'Lean Island and Chase 
Island, the sun began to peer out from behind the dark clouds, 
when we stopped the dogs, threw ourselves flat on the bare snow, 
and slept soundly for one hour and thirty-live minutes. 

At 8 A.M we arrived at the 18th encampment (which was the 
same as the tenth), whence we had started on the 8th instant, mak- 
ing an absence while on this journey of just ten days. The num- 
ber of miles traveled was 176 nautical, or 203 English miles, this 
distance having been made in exactly 54 hours and 31 minutes 
traveling time. 

A brief extract from my notes, written after my return from 
this journey, reads as follows : 

"Taking my departure from the tenth encampment on May 8, 
1862, and sledging 176 miles (nautical), now, on my return to same 
place, my ' dead reckoning' — which has been kept independent of 
all the astronomical observations taken during the trip — makes 
the same place differ in latitude 2-^nj- miles, and in longitude less 

* See accompanying engraving, and also type on larger scale of slcdgc-log, line 
and reel, on page 521, drawn to one sixth of the size of the original. This contriv- 
ance was made while encamped on the ice in the middle »f Frobisher Bay (ninth 
encampment). The reel was wood, the line a codfish-line, the log a relic of the 
wrecked liesme — a ring-bolt, weighing just two pounds, which answered admirably 
tho purpose for which I desired it. 



540 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

than half a geographical mile, an approximation I little expected 
to make." 

I found Henry very sick, and it was necessary that I should get 
him to the vessel as soon as possible. Tuuukxlerlien and Jennie 
were well, the latter as evil-disposed as ever. Sharkey, howev- 
er, had to receive sad news. By his former wife he had a child, 
which had been given in care to another Innuit. This child 
would occasionally, b} r various acts such as are common to young 
children, annoy its guardian, who accordingly conveyed it to the 
top of a lonely and rocky mountain, sewed it up in a sealskin, and 
threw it down a deep cleft, leaving it there to be frozen to death, 
and there its little corpse was afterward discovered by some In- 
nuits. 

We found plenty of food among the people here, and blubber, 
the commercial value of which would have been some hundreds 
of dollars, and yet all soon to be wasted. One ookgook which 
they had captured must have weighed quite 1500 pounds, and its 
blubber was two inches thick. 

The following day, May 19th, finding that Koojesso was too 
sick to accompany me farther, and that Sharkey had to remain 
with his wife, I made arrangements with the Innuit " Bill," who 
agreed to take Henry and myself, with my dogs, to Oopungnc- 
wing. After farewells with my Innuit friends, away wc went, all 
six of us (Bill would have his wife and two children along too), 
down the bay; but in the evening a heavy snow-storm came on, 
and, though we tried to breast it for some time, we were at length 
obliged to give in, and encamp, after midnight, on Clarke's Isl- 
and, which is between Jones's Cape and Chapel's Point. 

The next morning, the 20th, we again proceeded, the traveling, 
in consequence of rough ice, being very bad, and, on arriving at a 
point nearTwerpukjua, we were obliged to make our course over 
a narrow neck of land, called the Pass of Ee-too-nop-pin, which 
leads directly to the Countess of "Warwick's Sound. The channel 
between Niountelik and Oopungnewing was also much broken 
up, and it was only with great difficulty we reached the latter- 
named place in the afternoon. Here I found numerous Innuit 

families, and also heard that Captain B had visited the place, 

but had gone down to Cape True fifteen days before. " Bill," my 
sledge-driver, was' so stricken with snow-blindness that I had to 
make arrangements with Innuit "Charley" to carry me back to 
the ship. This was speedily effected, and in an hour's time we 
ajrain started. 



SAFE ARRIVAL. 



541 



We proceeded rapidly across the sound to Lincoln Bay, and 
thence, taking Bayard Taylor Pass, arrived at Field Bay. On the 
way quite an accident occurred. "While on the descent of the 
land pass, Field Bay side, the sledge capsized and broke down, 
and one of the runners split from stem to stern. 

At first we thought that it was a complete wreck, and that 
nothing could be done except to walk the remaining distance; 
but " Charley" at once proceeded to unload the sledge and make 
repairs. With a seal-knife he bored three holes through the two- 
inch plank runner, bound the shattered parts together, made all 
secure, reloaded the sledge, and then, when we had taken some- 
thing to eat and drink, declared that all was once more ready to 
proceed. The dexterity with which "Charley" did this was re- 
markable. In fifty minutes from the time the sledge was broken 
he had it all in order again. 

It was nearly two o'clock in the morning of Tuesday, May 21st, 
when we arrived at the ship, where I found on board only the 
steward and "Fluker." 




WALUCS CKULL AND TUSKS. 



542 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — They decide to Visit America. — More Frobisher Relics. 
— A Musket-ball. — Old Ookijoxy Xinoo. — Interesting Conversation. — Her Sketch 
of the Monument. — Innuit Superstition. — The Lock of Hair. — Sledge-journey 
alone. — Another Trip with Ebierbing. — Danger on the Ice. — Remains of Innuit 
subterranean Houses. — A critical Situation. — Boat-excursion to Countess of War- 
wick's Sound. — A large Traveling Company. — Kodlunarn again. — Fresh Discov- 
eries. — Another Voyage. — Sharkey's Monument. — Walrus Meat. 

For a week after my return to the ship nothing especially wor- 
thy of note occurred. An extract from my diary of May 25th, 
1862, will show that I was reasonably certain of having Innuit 
companions on my return to the United States: "Ebierbing and 
his nuliana, Tookoolito, will return here in season to accompany 
me to America. I am to take them for the purpose of having 
them accompany me on a future expedition to King William's 
Land. I hope, after what I have done here in the North in 
the way of explorations, in discovering relics of Frobisher's expe- 
ditions of near three centuries ago, and in determining the prob- 
able fate of the five of his company that were kidnapped here, 
I shall have no insurmountable obstacle to overcome in preparing 
for that voyage which I still have at heart— the voyage to King 
William's Land and Boothia — to investigate all the facts relative 
to Sir John Franklin's expedition while in the vicinity of the 
places named. That the Innuits are still living who know all 
about the mysterious termination of that expedition I hare not (lie 
shadow of a doubt. What is requisite is to visit those regions, get 
acquainted with and establish friendly relations among the In- 
nuits there, become familiar with their language, and then learn 
of them the history of that expedition." 

On the 3d of June I was fortunate in obtaining two more relics 
of the Frobisher expedition. Ooksin, an Innuit whom I had 
known before, came on board from Oopungnewing, and gave me, 
as a present from Annawa's wife, Noodlooyong, a piece of brick, 
or rather of tile, about two inches long, one inch thick, and one 
and a half inches wide, and also a musket-ball, both found on Kod- 



MOKE FROB1SHER RELICS. 543 

lunarn many years ago, and before guns were used by the natives. 
The piece of tile was similar to those used by the native women 
in that locality for polishing their brass ornaments. It afforded 
evidence enough, in dirt and grease, that it must have been in In- 
nuit hands a long time. The ball had the appearance of having 
been carefully preserved since first found. It had several small 
indentations upon its surface, and the whole of it was covered 
with a white coat (oxide of lead), in consequence of long ex- 
posure. It is 4r^ihs of an inch in diameter. Ooksin said the ball 
was found on Kodlunarn, under one of the embankments by the 
"ship's trench," before Innuits knew any thing of guns, and when 
they used only bows and arrows. 

A day or two after this, on June 7th, I started on a sledge-ex- 
ploring trip to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, being accompanied by 
Ebierbing as dog-driver, but, after proceeding down the bay, coast- 
ing along by Clement's Land,* rounding Farrington's Cape,f and 
making some distance to the north, we were obliged, on account 
of the deep, soft snow upon the sea-ice, to return on the tenth of 
June without accomplishing my object. 

While on this trip, however, I met with old Ookijoxy Ninoo 
— who, with Ebierbing, Koodloo, and their families, was living 
near Farrington's Cape, on a spot called by the natives Twer-puk- 
ju-a-chune, which means a place with many small stones — and had 
an interesting conversation with her concerning matters pertain- 
ing to Frobisher's expedition, being fortunate enough to find her 
in a communicative mood. She was in her tupic, sometimes sit- 
ting, sometimes reclining, and, as usual with her (being old and 
infirm, and mostly confined to her bed), was quite naked, with the 
exception of a tuktoo coverlet over her shoulders. When she 
reclined she rested her chin in her hands, which were propped up 
by her elbows. Beside her lay her sick grandchild, a one-eyed 
boy of nine years, at whose illness she greatly grieved. Near at 
hand was Ookoodlear, Ookijoxy Ninoo's granddaughter, who was 
almost constantly employed in attending to- the calls of the old 
lady ; she was now engaged in dressing a tuktoo skin and tending 
the infant of Tookoolito, who acted as my interpreter. 

The old lady then, in answer to questions put by me through 

* Named after W. II. Clement, of Cincinnati, Ohio. For Clement's Land sec 
Chart. 

t Named after II. B. Farrington, of New York. This cape is in lat. 62° i">0' N., 
long. G4° 33' W. 



544 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

Tookoolito, repeated to me, though in a somewhat different form, 
what I had learned in previous conversations with her, namely, 
that ships with white men came to those regions; that the Jcod- 
lunas who were left behind built a ship, attempted to escape from 
the country, failed in the attempt, and finally froze to death. She 
also gave me two names, which show how accurately the tradi- 
tions of the Innuits are handed down ; one was the name of a na- 
tive who was particularly kind to the white men, and who was 
called " E-loud-ju-arng /" he was a Pim-ma-in, a great man or chief 
amoDg the Innuits, as Tookoolito, translating the old lady's words, 
said, "All same as king." "When the white men were about to 
set out with their ship for home, this Eloudjuarng had a song 
made wishing the kodlunas a quick passage and much joy, and 
he caused his people, who were then very numerous, to sing it. 
The other name handed down is that of one native who saw the 
kodlunas, " Man-nu." 

Ookijoxy Ninoo gave me, moreover, an entirely new fact. She 
said that the kodlunas in the ships who first came to the country 
went up the bay called by the Innuits Ker-nulc-too-joo-a, and by me 
Newton's Fiord, and there, a little distance inland, erected a mon- 
ument. Some time later, Tookoolito brought me a sketch of the 
monument, made by the old lady herself, and the accompanying 
illustration presents a facsimile of this sketch. The monument 
itself is not on very high land. The Innuits for a very long time, 
and down even to the present daj', have been in the habit of go- 
ing there; and wishing success in hunting, they would give- it 
presents of young tuktoo meat, bows and arrows, beads, etc., hang- 
ing the same on it or placing them close about it. It was on all 
occasions treated with the greatest respect, the belief being that 
he who gave much to the monument would kill much game. 
Ebicrbing, on seeing the sketch, said that he had frequently given 
arrows in a similar way. 

At one point in her narrative old Ookijoxy Ninoo seized an 
oodloo — a knife shaped like the chopping-knife in use among us 
(see page 272) — and severed a lock of her hair, which she gave 
into my hands with the request that I would take it to America, 
and show it to many peoj^le as that of the oldest Innuit inhabit- 
ant. She said that there was no one living in her country who 
was a child when she was. Her hair was nearly all black, there 
being only now and then a white or gray hair on her head. I 
doubt not Ookijoxy Ninoo was fully 100 years old. Finding the 



THE WHITE MAN'S MONUMENT. 



5-45 



old lady becoming exhausted, I took my leave and returned to 
the sledge. 




Fac-smiie sketch by Oonwoxr Xr>-oo, who represents herself performing her devotions to the kol- 
kon-e-tu-arng, the ancient monument of the kod-lu-nas (white men). The rude sketch in the low. 
er part of th,s illustration represent a fresh-water lake, which is near the monument. The pend- 
ont lines around the top of the monument are strings to which the natives hang their present*. 

On the 14th of June I left the ship on a visit to the whaling de- 
pot at Cape True. As no other sledge was at band, I took a small 
one which I had previously made of such material as I found on 
board, and with two dogs started on my journey alone. I was 
not expert at driving, and at first made slow progress, but finally 
succeeded in getting my team into good working order. Barbe- 
kark was my leader, and, by dint of hard blows, I managed to 
keep him in a right position. On my way I called at thc°tupics 

Mm 



546 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

of Ebierbing and Koodloo, at Farrington Cape. Here I had a 
pleasant conversation with Tookoolito, and, soon after, Ugarng ar- 
rived from Allen's Island, in Cornelius Grinnell Bay. I stopped 
here for the night, and the next morning departed for Cape True, 
my company being increased by seven souls, with two large dog- 
teams and two sledges. We arrived at the whaling depot with- 
out mishap, and found the captain and his men, and several Innu- 
its — among them my faithful attendant " Sharkey" — all well, fat, 
and healthy. 

I remained a short time at this place, and then — June ISth — 
returned to the ship, whence I expected to depart in a few days 
for Cornelius Grinnell Bay, for the purpose of making a survey 
of it. 

I here bring forward an extract from my journal of Friday, 
June 20th, 1862 : 

" To-morrow I expect Ebierbing to come after me, when I shall 
hope to make a successful start for Cornelius Grinnell Bay. My 
work by sledge will soon be over ; the water-pools on the ice are 
growing numerous and are enlarging. 

" Saturday, June 21st. A few minutes after 1 P.M., Ebierbing, 
with team of dogs, arrived. To-morrow morning I start on my 
proposed trip, weather permitting — I mean, God willing." 
2/ At 7 23 on the morning of the 2Jpth, Ebierbing and myself left 

the ship, taking our course directly down the Bay for Farrington 
Cape. Thence we turned and traveled northwardly and eastward- 
ly for Cape Haven,* a mountain island at the eastern extreme 
of Williams's Peninsula.f Cape Haven was the place of my first 
encampment on this trip, and distant by sledge route from George 
Henry Harbor fifteen miles. On ascending its heights I found 
the view that it commanded to be very extensive. 

On the following day I held over at the place of my first en- 
campment till 11 A.M., hoping the sun would make its appear- 
ance from behind the clouds, so that I might make observations 
for time, latitude, and solar bearings. 

Having no prospect of sun, we started on, striking along to the 
north on the ice of Davis's Strait, our course leading us not far 
from the coast of Williams's Peninsula. Before leaving Cape Ha- 

* Thus named after Henry P. Haven, of New London, Conn. Cape Haven is 
in lat. G2° 54' N., long. G4° 23' W. 

+ Thus named after T. W. Williams, of New London, Conn. The Esquimaux 
name of the land which I called Williams's Peninsula is Sing-ey-cr. 



A NARROW ESCAPE. 547 

ven, however, we prospected from its summit the state of the ice 
over which we expected to travel that day, and found it rent here 
and there with wide and diversified fissures. The prospect be- 
fore us was certainly not very flattering, still we determined on 
doing the best we could in making a trial. This trial we made, 
but with what success will now appear. In passing almost direct 
for Kogers's Island we found the ice of a very dangerous charac- 
ter. It was groaning and cracking to an alarming extent. The 
open water was only some three miles off, and the heaving sea be- 
neath us threw up the frozen mass upon which we traveled in a 
way that made it doubtful if we could proceed. Wide fissures 
and numerous tide-holes were met, and frequently my companion 
Ebierbing and myself had to move along the edge of these fis- 
sures for some distance before we could find any passage across. 
On one occasion the dogs were trotting along by the side of an 
ice-fissure, while I was intent upon examining the land we were 
passing, and Ebierbing was looking after a seal ; they suddenly 
drew the sledge almost into the yawning chasm ; but, on my rais- 
ing a cry of warning, Ebierbing, by a word, turned the team off 
from the dangerous spot, and thus saved us. "We arrived at Kog- 
ers's Island at 7 P.M., and made our second encampment, having 
made the distance of just twenty miles from Cape Haven on a 
course N". by W. (true). 

We were detained on Kogers's Island one full day and two 
nights by a terrific gale and snow-storm which occurred on the 
24th. It was an anxious time with us, for there was every prob- 
ability that the gale would make disastrous work with the ice 
over which I intended to make my return to the ship. In case it 
did so, we should not be able to reach the vessel in less than two 
or three weeks, as we should have been obliged to make our way 
as best we could to the land on the opposite side of the bay, and 
thence, abandoning every thing, to have gone on foot over mount- 
ains of rock and snow to Field Bay. 

Fortunately, we were preserved from this peril, and on the 25th 
of June we reached Allen's Island in safety ; but, although I had 
originally intended to go to the extreme of this bay, the advanced 
season had made ice-traveling so precarious that I was forced to 
confine my labors to the survey of that part of the bay south of 
Allen's Island, and 1 commenced a renewed examination of the 
place. A short distance from where we had our third encamp- 
ment, which was on the south end of Allen's Island, I saw the 



548 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

ruins of an old Innuit village, ■which showed a custom of the peo- 
ple in former times of building their winter houses or huts under 
ground. Circles of earth and stones, and skeleton bones of huge 
whales were to be seen, as also subterranean passages. There 
were, moreover, bones of seals and other animals beneath sods 
and moss, indicative of their great age. I discovered with my 
spy-glass two monuments at the distance of about a mile inland, 
and thither I directed my steps. They were seven or eight feet 
high, four feet square at the base, and about three fathoms distant 
from each other. The top of one had been torn or blown down. 
The stones of which they were composed were covered with black 
moss. They were erected by the Innuits evidently ages ago. 

My record of the succeeding day commences thus: 

"Thursday, June 26lh, 1S62. I much desired to continue my trip 
up to the extreme of this bay, but, on consulting freely with my 
Innuit companion, I found that my better policy was to give up 
the idea of doing so. It would take some three or four days to 
go up and return, allowing the loss of one or two days bad weath- 
er, as Ebierbing said, and in that time the probability of losing 
our chance to return on the ice with our sledge and instruments ; 
besides, Ebierbing said that Ugarng had told him that there 
would be great risks to run in going up the channel on cither 
side of Allen's Island on account of thin ice and tide-holes." 

On the morning of the above day we commenced our return 
to the vessel. I omitted nothing on my way back that I could do 
in the way of making observations for completing my chart. Our 
fourth encampment was near the north end of Williams's Peninsula. 

On Friday, the 27th of June, 11 A.M., we were back again at 
Cape Haven, the place of our first encampment. As I was desir- 
ous of spending a day at this place in making numerous observa- 
tions, it being a favorable look-out point, I therefore chose it for 
my fifth encampment. 

One could scarcely have more joyous feelings than I had at the 
prospect that was before me of doing some excellent work, and 
of doing a large amount of it. The day was fine — that is, I had a 
bright clear sun, while there was a light breeze from the north- 
west which was just warm enough, or, rather, just cold enough for 
my comfort. 

While I was engaged at my work on the heights of this cape, 
Ebierbing proceeded far out on the ice of Davis's Straits and em- 
ployed himself in sealing. Many, very many places that had now 



MONUMENTAL ISLAND. 



549 



become familiar to me even as friends, were in view ; in truth, I 
was nearly encircled by them, though the most were far off. 
Prominent among these were the Monumental Island of Sir John 
Franklin,* twenty miles distant, bearing E.S.E. (true), and Lady 




~4#$&^k 




ilO.NCME.STA I. Is 



Franklin Island, nearly due east, while far away to the north were 
Cape Murchison, Brevoort Island, Eobinson Sound, f Beekman's 
Peninsula,^ Archibald Promontory,§ and Cape Arnoux.fl A chan- 

* I so named this island as my tribute to the memory of Sir John Franklin. The 
Innuit name of it is Oo-mi-en-wa, from its resemblance to an inverted oo-mi-en (a 
woman or family boat). Its geographical position I determined by triangulation, 
which was done repeatedly and carefully, that I might have confidence in recom- 
mending this as a desirable and reliable point by which navigators, who might de- 
sire it, could regulate their chronometers. The centre of the Monumental Island 
of Sir John Franklin I found to be in lat. 62° 45' 45" N., and long. C3° 41' 07" west 
of Greenwich. Sec Chart. 

t This extensive sound I have named after Captain Henry Robinson, of Newbnrg, 
N. Y. It is between Beekman's Peninsula and Brevoort Island. Sec Chart. 

J Named by me after James W. Beekman, of New York. Beekman Peninsula is 
bounded on the east by Robinson Sound and Anderson Channel, and on the west 
by Cornelius Grinnell Bay. 

§ Named after E. M. Archibald, II. B. M. consul of New York. This promontory 
is on the west side, at the entrance of Robinson Sound. 

II Named after Wm. Henry Arnoux, of New York. Cape Arnoux is on the cast 
side, at the entrance to Cornelius Grinnell Bay. 



550 ' ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

nel or strait, which I named Anderson Channel,* leading from 
Eobinson Sound up toward Northumberland Inlet, was lost to 
my view by the high land of Beekman's Peninsula. The obser- 
vations I made at this point were quite numerous and important. 
On the following day (27th) we continued our return, and at 5 

P.M. arrived at the ship, where Captain B , with four of the 

crew, had arrived the day previous from Cape True. 

On the 80th of June I started on a sledge trip to Cape True, 
where most of the officers and crew of the George Henry were yet 
staying. There I remained for several days, trying to form a 
company of natives to go with me by boat to Countess of War- 
wick's Sound. I succeeded in obtaining a company of eleven, 
consisting of Miner and his new wife " Suzhi" — my old boat com- 
panion on my voyage up Frobisher Bay — Kooperneung and his 
two wives — for he had recently married a second — Sharkey and 
his Jennie, young " Captain," " Bone Squash," and two Innuit 
children — a girl and a boy. 

"We left Cape True at 9 45 A.M. on the morning of July 13th, 
and at 3 P.M. reached a small island near Oopungnewing, named 
by me Ookijoxy Ninoo ; thence, after a short stop, we went on to 
Oopungnewing. My purpose in visiting this island was to hunt 
for the " anvil," which, as I have already stated, had been thrown 
from the south end into the water. It was just after the full 
moon, and therefore the tides were rising and falling to their ex- 
treme limits, near thirty feet ; at low water a wide shore was left 
perfectly exposed, and nothing could have escaped my e} r e. I 
sought carefully and with anxiety for the relic I so much desired 
to obtain, but in vain ; it was not there. It was clear that the 
" thick- ribbed ice" had embraced it, as it evidently had every 
loose stone and heavy rock in that locality, and had carried it 
away from the land in its grasp. 

On the following day, July 14th, we started for Kodlunarn, 
where we remained till the 17th, during which time I occupied 
myself in making researches for relics, investigating all that I 
could which had a bearing upon the subject, besides making a com- 
plete survey of the island. These days of hard work resulted in 
the discovery of additional relics, confirming me in the opinions I 
had previously formed, and which I have elsewhere in this vol- 
ume expressed. In addition to what I had done before, I found 
very clear evidences of the existence of a blacksmith's forge or a 
* This channel I named after Captain Anderson, ofjhe steam-ship C/iina. 



GATHERING RELICS. 



551 



furnace. I must not omit to say here that the Esquimaux wom- 
en and children, and occasionally the men, aided me greatly while 
on Kodlunaru, searching for and securing relics. The men were 
obliged to be off, most of the time, sealing and hunting tuktoo for 
our subsistence. 

Our tupics were close by the place that we called the " ship's 
trench" (see Plan No. 1 on Chart Sheet), and occasionally, as I have 
said, all hands were engaged with me in gathering Frobisher rel- 
ics. One may get a good idea of our appearance when so engaged 
from the accompanying engraving. 




The Actiiob and ms Isscit CcMrxxr on Kodlunurn, or White Man's Island, gathering Frobiaher 
Belies, July 14th-17th, 1S62. 

The following list is an extract from the catalogue that accom- 
panied the Frobisher relics which I sent to the British govern- 
ment, through the Royal Geographical Society of London, shortly 
after my return to the States, and embraces twenty articles that 
were inclosed in a small black-vclvet-lined box, lettered J, which, 
with all that I sent, have been deposited by the British govern- 
ment in the Greenwich Hospital Museum, the same institution in 
which the Franklin relics are to be seen. The unabridged list 
comprised 136 separate parcels. 



CONTENTS OF BOX J. 




FEOItieUFB EELICe. 



A PORTION OF THE RELIC LIST. 553 



LIST OF ARTICLES ILLUSTRATED IN THE ACCOMPANYING EN- 
GRAVINGS. 

" 1. Fragment of tile and 4 gravel-stones, united by the moss of ages. 

2. Fragment of pottery, found near 'Best's Bulwark.' E. See Chart, Plan No. 1. 

3. Small piece of cord (apparently of hair), found deeply imbedded in the coal-dc- 

posite of Ek-ke-le-zhun. 

4. Four fragments of glass (apparently of a jar or bottle), found on the ground near 

the ship's way. The exact spot, I. 
0. Piece of oxyd of iron, with the moss of ages upon it, found near the ship's 
trench. AA. 

6. Piece of wood, dug up at the foot or base of the ship's trench. AA. 

7. Sea-coal, with the moss of ages upon it, found near 'Best's Bulwark.' E. 

8. Piece of pottery, found near ' Best's Bulwark.' E. 

9. Fragment of white pottery (?), black glazTng outside and inside, found on Kod- 

lunarn, near 'Best's Bulwark.' E. 

10. Clioice specimen of tile, covered with the moss of ages, from Kodlunarn. 

1 1. Sea-coal, covered with the moss of ages, from coal deposite, Ekkelczhun. 

12. Stone, covered with the moss of ages, from the top of one of the ship's embank- 

ments. GG. 

13. Flint-stone, covered with the moss of ages, found near the head of the ship's 

way. AA. 

14. Fragment of tile (glazed), apparently a portion of a human figure represented 

upon it — leg and foot in relievo. Largest piece of tile found ; dug from be- 
neath one of the ship's embankments. GG. 

15. Stone, with lime cement, from the ruins of stone house. B. 

1G. Probably one of the cars or knob-handles of an earthen jar, from near 'Best's 
Bulwark." E. 

17. Flint-stone with the moss of ages upon it. 

18. Chip found deeply imbedded in coal-dcpositc, Ekkelczhun. 

19. Burnt flint-stone, with lime cement, from the ruins of stone house. B. 

20. Charcoal of coarse-grained wood, apparently of thrifty growth, found under 

stones and sods by the ruins of the blacksmith's shop. The grain of this 
charcoal indicates it to be of the same kind of wood as that found at the 
base of the ship's trench, AA. Vide box D, I." 



551 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

The reader may observe that the capital letters here and there 
appended to the descriptions in the list refer to spots of ground 
indicated by those letters respectively in Plan No. 1 of the Chart 
Sheet. The form and general appearance of each of the twenty 
articles are exhibited in the preceding engraving, taken from a 
photograph. Of course they are reduced in size. 

On the 18th, after coasting by Tikkoon, visiting the bluff Nh- 
pou-c-tie Sup-bing, crossing the Countess of "Warwick's Sound, and 
entering Yictoria Bay, I landed at Ekkelezhun, where I had found 
the heap of coal in the previous fall. Here I again carefully ex- 
amined the place, and on the next day commenced my return, en- 
camping at night near a bay or inlet — Sabine Bay* — on the east 
side of Sharko. While exploring this inlet I was led to the dis- 
covery of a monument, built within the previous five or six years, 
on the top of a mountain in the rear of our encampment, and 
which I learned from the Esquimaux had been erected by an En- 
glish whaling - captain named Brown. From this monument I 
took numerous compass bearings and sextant angles, and then, re- 
turning to the boat, started back for Cape True, where we arrived 
in the evening. Without delay, I proceeded up, along the coast, 
one mile, and renewed my observations to connect with those 
made at Brown's Monument, and thus — as far as lay in my power 
with the instruments I possessed — completed the link of bearings 
and sextant angles that now extended all round Frobisher Bay. 
I now wanted to make another trip to the " southeast extreme" — 
the Hall's Island of Frobisher. On my mentioning my desire to 
the natives, all of them, at first, refused to accompany me, owing 
to their dread of the place ; but at length Sharkey, the bold In- 
nuit who was of my company in the late sledge-journey up Fro- 
bisher Bay, consented to go, if I would allow his wife to be of the 
party. Mate Lamb and four of the ship's crew also went with 
me, as the ship's company were doing nothing, except now and 
then capturing a walrus and eating it, simply living at Cape True 
until the ice in Field Bay should break up and free the ship. 
They remained at Cape True to be near the walrus grounds. Our 
only means of subsistence consisted of such products as the coun- 
try afforded. About 100 pounds of raw walrus meat was placed 
in the bottom of the boat, and, besides that, every man had enough 
of the same food, cooked, to last two days. 

* Named by me after Edward Sabine, of London, England. The entrance to Sa- 
bine Ray is in lat. 62° 39' N., long. 65° 05' W. 



LAST EXPLORING TRIP. 555 

"We left the whaling depot at 3 A.M. of the 21st of July, and 
proceeded through Bear Sound and Lupton Channel to Sylvia 
Island, where we arrived at five o'clock. I landed and went to 
the summit, where I could obtain a good view, and, to my vexa- 
tion, found that Field Bay was still heavily covered with ice. I 
had purposed making my outward trip along the north side of 
Lok's Land, and return coasting along its south shore, thus mak- 
ing a complete circuit of the island ; but the presence of the ice 
convinced me that this could not be done by boat, and consequent- 
ly I had to try the southern, or Frobisher Bay side. After spend- 
ing an hour there, taking a round of angles and doing other work 
in the way of confirming my survey, we therefore returned down 
Bear Sound, passing directly under the beetling cliffs of Matlack's 
Island,* which is near the centre of the Sound. About meridian 
we were among the islands at the entrance of Bear Sound, visiting 
one after another for egg and duck hunting, which proved to be 
quite successful. A short time after we rounded Cape Chapel, f 
and made our course nearly due east, coasting along under oars. 
"We had not proceeded far before we were passing the mouth of 
a beautiful bay — Bigler Bay 4 as I named it — which made up 
some two miles into Lok's Land. Then we entered a long nar- 
row channel — New York Press Channel § — having low land on 
either side, that at our right being what I called Harper Brothers' 
Island.'j After several hours' hard pulling at the oars we arrived 
at the termination of this channel, and made our first encamp- 
ment on Lok's Land, opposite the east end of Harper Brothers' 
Island. We had boiled ducks and eggs for supper, and our 
sleeping accommodation for the men was made of the boat's sails, 
while that for Mr. Lamb and myself was mercty a shawl to cov- 
er us. 

At 7 A.M. next day, July 22d, we again started, and, as we 
passed along Lok's Land, I noticed a monument of stone stand- 
ing near the edge of the shore. Sharkey told me that this was 
erected by himself and some Innuit companions on reaching this 
spot a few years ago, after having been drifted out to sea when 

* Named after B. Mntlack, of Cincinnati, Ohio. 

+ Named after Captain Edward A. Chapel, of Hudson, New York. This cape is 
on the east side, at the entrance to Bear Sound of Frobisher. 

I Named after James Bigler, of Newbnrg, New York. 

§ Named after the Associated Press of New York City. 

|l Named after "Harper Brothers" of New York. The centre of Harper Broth- 
I i -■ 1 -laud is in lal W N., long. C4° 80* W. 



556 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

the ice broke away, at a time they were out on a walrus hunt 
from Toongwine (Jones's Cape). It was in the winter, and the 
weather was so severe while they were thus adrift that their dogs 
all died. The Innuits escaped by the tide setting the ice inshore. 
They managed to return to their families by crossing the island, 
and thence reached the main land by traversing the ice-pack. Be- 
fore they got back every one had considered them lost, and their 
return was an occasion of joy to their friends as if the dead had 
come to life. 

More monuments were seen, and I was informed that they in- 
dicated the land dreaded by all Innuits, and that they told of a 
time long ago (already mentioned), when many of the native peo- 
ple lived there, who ultimately were all lost; since when, no In- 
nuit dares dwell upon the island. 

In the course of the day I visited Bear Island — the place where, 
one year before, while on my sledge-trip, Ebierbing, with Koodloo, 
had killed a bear — and at 2 P.M. we reached its eastern end. 
Here we found the pack-ice setting in with the tide too heavily 
for risking the boat, and we again had to encamp. Next morn- 
ing, however, we succeeded in crossing the entrance to Osbon's 
Bay,* and getting to Hall's Island of Frobisher — the Extreme 
Land — and, as soon as possible, I was on my way to the summit 
of Mount Warwick, which I had ascended in the previous year. 
It was a laborious task on this occasion, with the sun's hot rays 
pouring down upon our backs ; but, finalh', I reached the spot 
where, on my former visit, heavy fog-banks had shut out all dis- 
tant objects from my sight. . Now I was more fortunate. A me- 
ridian observation of the sun was made, and two solar bearings 
obtained, which enabled me to connect many important places by 
sextant angles. In recognizing distant lands I received much as- 
sistance from Sharkey, who is well acquainted with the coast from 
Northumberland Inlet down to Eesolution Island, and also up 
Hudson's Strait to Karmowong. 

The view from the point where I stood was a very extensive 
one, and probably there is no place in the whole country equal to 
it. Certainly no place which I visited while North affords such a 
commanding view as this from Mount "Warwick. I could see far 
away to the north, even to the high land near the entrance of 

* Named by me after B. S. Osbon, of New York. Osbon's Bay is at tbe cast end 
of Lok's Land. Tbe entrance to it is on the south side of IlaU's Island of Frobisher 
and Hudson's Island. 



A GALE.— BEAR SOUND. 557 

Northumberland Inlet, and thence, sweeping round by the west, 
away to Eesolution Island south. Seaward, as far as my eye 
could reach from an elevation of 1200 feet, was pack-ice. Field 
Bay, except the entrance, was also full of last winter's ice, as was 
also as much of Frobisher Bay as I could observe. 

Our return was made, though not without danger and some dif- 
ficulty. 

Leaving Hall's Island of Frobisher at 6 P.M., we arrived at the 
place of our first encampment at 9 30, night, where we made our 
second and last. Next morning, at 4 25, we started, continuing 
our return voyage. Before we got through New York Press Chan- 
nel the wind had freshened to a gale from the northeast, but on and 
on our boat bounded like a thing of life. The gale continued, if 
any thing increased, till we were athwart Bear Sound, when it 
burst into fury, madly hurling the foaming breakers in upon us 
and the unnumbered islands that lay in our course. To add to 
our dangers, a thick fog was upon us ; yet our little craft, though 
with half sail, and all the time nearly upon her beam-ends, flew 
full 15 knots an hour. Speedily and safely, but wet as "brown- 
ed rats," we arrived at Cape True at 8 15 A.M., though in our pas- 
sage across Bear Sound we had but just escaped destruction. 

I may here state that the whole party at Cape True were in no 
want of food while I was there. Walrus was abundant, and was, 
indeed, almost exclusively our diet. We had walrus brains for 
supper; stewed walrus, or walrus boiled, for dinner; but always 
walrus, and no bread. 



558 AECTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXXYI. 

Revisit Victoria Bay. — Packed Ice setting in tlie Sound. — Detention and difficult Es- 
cape. — Return to the Whaling Depot. — Joyous News from the Ship. — All Hands 
summoned on Board. — Great Excitement. — Adieu to Bear Sound, Lupton Chan- 
nel, and French Head. — Arrival on Board. — The Ship free from Ice. — Prepar- 
ations for Sailing. — Visit to Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — Their readiness to go 
to America. — August 9th, 1862, the George Henry lifts Anchor, and gets under 
way for Home. — Friendly Adieux to the Natives. — Once more at Sea. — First Sign 
of Civilization for twenty Months. — Newfoundland. — Pilot comes on Board. — 
First News of the War. — Kindly Reception at St. John's.' — Arrival at New Lon- 
don. — Conclusion . 

I will here give a few brief extracts from my journal, written 
while stopping at Cape True, commencing with 

" Thursday, July 31st, 1862. One year ago to-day the George 
Henry broke out of her ice-prison. This morning, Mates Rogers, 
Gardiner, and Lamb, with their three boats and crews, went out 
in the bay — Frobisher Bay — after walrus. A short time after 
they left a thick fog set in, and the tide carried them up opposite 
Countess of Warwick's Sound before they were aware of it. Aft- 
er the lighting up of the fog a little, they fell in with a shoal of 
walrus, of which they harpooned three large ones. This walrus 
party returned at 3 P.M. with three tons of fresh meat. There is 
no place in the world where a " living" is obtained with less work 
than here. These three walruses added make the whole number 
forty that have been taken since the George Henry's company first 
came here this season, not including some two or three young 
ones. 

" Friday, August 1st. And still, as we learn, the George Henry is 
fast in the ice. Anxious are all of us to depart for the States, 
but King Ice will not yet let us go. A good ' nor'wester' would 
drive away the pack which presses so closely and so unrelenting- 
ly the west side of Davis's Strait, and allow the ice which holds 
dominion over the George Henrijs pathway to the sea to give 
way. It may be the pack will keep us here another year ; but I 
hope not. I trust in two weeks more we shall be on our way 
home, there to prepare for the voyage I have so much at heart. 
God grant an early deliverance from our ice foe. 
■ "August 2d. This afternoon, learning that the Innuits here were 



COUXTESS OF WARWICK'S SOUND. 559 

about to remove up into Field Bay as far as the open water would 
allow them, I at once set my wits to work to devise some plan to 
secure some of thern to accompany me again to Countess of War- 
wick's Sound, and to be of such service to me in the boat that I 
shall be able to keep good dead reckoning. I first conversed with 
Mate Rogers. lie agreed to accompany me, with two of his men 
not otherwise engaged. The Innuits ' Miner' and ' Charley' signi- 
fied a willingness to accompany me with their wives and kias. I 
hope now to complete my survey of the Countess of Warwick's 
Sound, and to be enabled to keep a correct account of distances 
and courses made. Arrangements are now complete to start to- 
morrow, with the expectation of being absent two or three days. 
By that time I hope that we shall have word to vacate this place 
(Cape True), and make for the ship, to depart for the States. 
This will probably be my last research voyage before leaving for 
home. I wish the time would admit of my proceeding up to Ker- 
nuk-too-ju-a (Newton's Fiord), near which is that monument (see 
page 545) which the natives say was erected by kodlunas long, 
long time ago, which I have been so very anxious to visit since 
old Ookijoxy Ninoo first told me about it." 

At 8 A.M. of August 3d, with an increasing breeze, we left the 
whaling depot, my whole company being in one boat, except 
Charley and Miner, who were each in his kia. Our progress was 
good, and we got on without any mishap over half way ; but 
when near Cape Cracroft, at the entrance to the sound we wished 
to enter, the storm which had been threatening for some time 
broke upon us all at once, tearing up the sea in its wildest fury, 
so that several times we were in great danger. The heavy squalls 
from off the high land at our right caused us to exercise the great- 
est caution in managing the little sail we were able to carry ; the 
rain was pouring down, and the white-caps tumbled into our boat, 
making it necessary to keep incessantly bailing ; but finally, after 
much skillful management on the joart of Mate Bogers as boat- 
steercr, we effected a safe landing at Cape Ood-loo-ong. 

Directly after landing I ascended Harris Highlands,* to exam- 
ine the Countess of Warwick's Sound, when, to my vexation, I 
found that between us and Hazard's Land,f Oopungnewing, Ni- 

* Tho mountainous land between Lincoln Bay and Victoria Bay I named Hani, 
Highlands, after J. N. Harris, of New London, Connecticut. 

t The land on the north of tho Countess of 'Warwick's Sound, and cast of Wis- 
wcll's Inlet, I named Hazard's Land, after A. G. Hazard, of Enfield, Connecticut. 



560 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



ountelik, and Kodlunarn, all was packed ice, and in suck a state 
tkat no boat could be forced througk it. The presence of this ice 
is accounted for in this way : the heavy, incessant gale of July 
24-th and 25tk had driven the pack hard on to the west side of 
Davis's Strait, and when, on August 2d, another gale prevailed, 
coming from the southeast, it drove the rattling pack up into Fro- 
bisher Bay, filling it almost solid, except close inshore between 
Bear Sound and Victoria Bay. My hopes, therefore, to accom- 
plish what I designed in making this final trip were doomed to 
be disappointed; but, while an opportunity remained for doing 
any thing, I determined to thoroughly examine the remarkable 
bay in which we then were — Victoria Bay — and its surroundings. 
This I did on the following day. The weather, however, was 
very bad, and it was with difficulty I could accomplish an}' thing 
at all. Then, too, we had to guard against being shut up in the 
pack ; and our critical situation became so evident that, on the 
morning of the 5th, we saw that to delaj r our return a moment 
longer would be sheer presumption. Accordingly, at an early 
hour, we started, the whole company in the boat (the two kias 
were left at Cape Ood-loo-ong) ; but we had not gone far before 
we met the pack drifting in with the tide, and blocking up our 
way. And now began the usual work of hauling the boat over 
ice, tracking her through narrow channels, turning now to the 
right, then to the left, going forward a while, then back to anoth- 
er opening, and cutting away obstructions. 

Several hours of heavy labor were consumed in lifting, push- 




THE ESOAPE OVEtt bEIFTING PACK. — MY u LAST SIGHTS, " 



THE ICE-PACK.— GOOD NEWS. 561 

ing, and pulling our boat over several miles of driving, drifting, 
whirling, crashing, thundering ice. Occasionally, while my com- 
pany — both men and women — would be getting the boat upon an 
ice-floe, and dragging it along, the dogs and children accompany- 
ing, I would be busily engaged with my instruments taking my 
" last sights" of the principal places in and around the ever mem- 
orable "Countess of Warwick's Sound," which had been lost to 
the world for near three hundred years, but now was found. At 
last we got clear, arriving at open water, when we at once launch- 
ed the boat and pushed off. From thence it was not long that we 
were on our way to Cape True, where we arrived in perfect safe- 
ty, though, within two hours after our arrival, the pack ribbed the 
whole coast, and we thus narrowly escaped being closed in the 
second time. 

Two clays after our return, on Friday, August 8th, we were 
agreeably surprised, in the early morning, by the arrival of Cap- 
tain B in a boat direct from George Henry Harbor, in the 

upper part of Field Bay. He announced that the ship was near- 
ly free, and that the ice of Field Bay was all broken up, and 
much of it had drifted out to sea. His orders were for all hands 
to proceed immediately on board. 

This news caused immense joy. All was excitement. Tents 
were quickly struck, boats were made ready, and stowed with 
such of the material as we intended carrying on board, and in a 
very short time we were ready for a start. As for myself, I had 
to regret the loss of some of my geological specimens, which I 
was obliged to abandon here on account of their weight in the al- 
ready overloaded boat. 

At 4 A.M. we took our final leave of Cape True, after a friend- 
ly adieu to the people in that locality, with whom we had become 
so familiar. We struck direct for Hubbcl's Point,* and soon aft- 
er was passing up Bear Sound. The day was calm and clear, and 
the boats had to be pulled nearly the whole way ; but no fatigue 
was felt while anticipating a speedy arrival on board the ship. 
At seven o'clock we were through Bear Sound, where the tide, as 
usual, was running very swiftly and strong, though it was in our 
favor. Many well-known spots were quickly passed, receiving 
our farewell, and we were soon through Lupton Channel, when 
we turned into Field Bay, which was seen to be nearly full of 

* This point, on the west side at the entrance of Bear Sound, I have named after 
Charles C. Hubbcl, of Hudson, New York. 

Nn 



562 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

drift-ice, moving out and in with the tide. French ITead, the 
scene of poor John Brown's death, was gazed upon with some 
saddening memories ; but the brightness of the day, and the hope 
before us of soon being under way for home, forbade much lin- 
gering on painful recollections. At 1 P.M. we passed Parker's 
Bay, and in an hour and a half more arrived at the ship, glad 
again to tread her decks, but more especially rejoiced to find her 
once more free. 

I went on shore immediately after to take some observations ; 
and then, upon my return on board, and after a supper of hard 
bread and salt junk, I started with a boat's crew down the north 
side of the bay to Farrington Cape, to bring off Ebicrbing and 
Tookoolito, with their child. I had previously asked them sever- 
al times about accompanying me to the United States, and they 
had expressed a desire to do so. Now, however, the time for 
preparation was so short, and the event, withal, so sudden to 
them, that I feared they would not like to come ; but on my ar- 
rival at their encampment, some seven miles down, I was agree- 
ably surprised, after some conversation, to find them prepared to 
make the venture. In less than an hour these children of the icy 
North had packed up their effects, and, together with their child 
and their fine seal-dog " Eatty," were with us in the boat, ready to 
proceed on a voyage to a strange and distant land. My faithful 
dos; Barbekark could not be forgotten nor left behind ; he was 
already aboard. The arrangement we had made was, that they 
should accompany me to the States, and then on my voyage to 
King William's Land ; and that, if the ice would admit of it, on 
leaving the States and getting near their country, I would stop 
with them to see their friends. The only objection they made 
was, that they were fearful thej r should lose their infant boy while 
on board the ship* 

At the same time, Ugarng, " John Bull," Koodloo, and their 
wives, came along with us in their boats ; and many other Innuit 
families, from various places near the ship, with whom we had 
been acquainted, did the same. It was near midnight when we 
got on board, and I found every thing in readiness for the ves- 
sel's departure on the following morning. 

Saturday, the 9th of August, commenced with calm and clear 
weather. All were full of excitement. Every man felt equal to 

* Tuk-e-lik-c-ta, the infant child of Ebicrbing and Tookoolito, died in Xew York 
City of pneumonia, on February 28th. 1SG3. 



TEK-BOU-E-TIE.— HOMEWARD BOUND. 



563 



and ready for any amount of work. Eagerly was the word of 
command waited for. The ice bad cleared away ; the ship was 
swinging lazily to her anchors, and all now required was to 
weigh them and spread sail. But there was no wind. This, for 
a time, made us hold on, until at length the captain, finding it use- 
less to wait longer for a breeze, gave the signal, and away went 
the windlass round to the mirthful notes of joyous men, as they 
hove in chain and lifted anchor once more. Soon the ship was 
clear, and then, with lines out, all the boats were manned to tow 
her down the bay. 

As we left the anchorage all our Innuit friends surrounded us, 
and with many words of kind regret again and again bade us 
" ler-bou-e-lie" (farewell). There were not a few among us who 
felt this parting. We had received much and constant kindness 
at their hands, and the final adieu was not without those softer 
shades of feeling which generally characterize partings at home. 




" Ter-bou-t-tic, In-nu-it"— (Farewell, Innulw. 

But now it is over. The vessel moves on her way. The kias 
and oomiens, with their occupants, gradually recede from our 
view, and with a last wave of the hands, a parting look, we turn 
our glances seaward, and allow our thoughts to be occupied only 
with home. 

During the morning we were compelled to use the boats in 



564 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

towing, but in the afternoon made sail, though with a light, baf- 
fling breeze. In the evening, however, a fog came up, and at 11 
P.M. we had to make fast to a floe. The weather continued the 
same nest day until midnight; then, with a fresher breeze, we 
made all sail, and kept working through the ice for twenty-four 
hours, when at length we got clear, and were once more fairly at 
sea. 

It was a strange feeling I had when again experiencing the pe- 
culiar motion of a ship on the heaving, ever-restless bosom of the 
ocean. After being so long imprisoned in that ice-locked region, 
the sensation now was similar to what had come over me when 
taking my departure from home. But a few da}'s soon put me to 
rights, and as the vessel made good way, my spirits rose buoyant 
over the temporary attack of sea-sickness, and I was myself again. 

On the 17th we were all delighted by the sight of four vessels, 
the first signs of civilization we had seen for twenty months. As 
we neared one of them bearing the English flag, an officer, with a 
boat's crew, was sent from our ship on board, to. try to obtain 
some provisions, as we were living on very short allowance — 
three fifths of a pound of sea-biscuit per man per day, with a little 
salt junk and salt pork. Unfortunately we could get none, as 
the supercargo of the ship stated that they had no more than 
enough for themselves. Another ship was tried. She proved to 
be a Spanish vessel ; but a small quantity was obtained from her, 
and this was most acceptable. 

On the 21st we neared St. John's, Newfoundland, and it was 
considered advisable that we should visit that port to obtain sup- 
plies, as all of us were nearly half starved. Of course, we made 
all the preparations we could in regard to our persons and our 
dress, for we were once more to mix with civilized beings. At 6 
A.M. on the 23d, a pilot came on board, and, as soon as he had 
passed the gangway, I put the question, which is generally the 
first from an American's lips on such occasions, " Who is Presi- 
dent of the United States?" But so little did our affairs trouble 
this Newfoundlander that he could give us no information. I put 
the leading names to him, but still without effect. He "did not 
know." This was mortifying, for I was naturally anxious to 
learn who had the ruling power in my native land ; but, seeing I 
could get no satisfactory reply, I turned aside, while the pilot con- 
versed with Captain B . Presently the latter came to me and 

said, 



CONCLUSION. 565 

" So there's war, then, in reality, among us at home. The North 
and the South are fighting against each other." 

"What!" I exclaimed, in utter amazement; "what — war? War 
in the United Slates, and among ourselves ?" 

" True enough," was the response ; " at least so says our pilot." 

A few words with the pilot assured me of the main fact, though 
without informing me of any particulars, for he could give none. 
But the news was so astounding that I did not for a while recov- 
er from the shock. Bitter was the feeling that came over me on 
receipt of the intelligence, and I tried hard to doubt it, until doubt 
became impossible, especially when I landed and heard all the 
facts from our consul. This first news from home created a gen- 
eral gloom among us on board, and much of the joy which we 
should naturally have felt on reaching a civilized port was lost by 
reflecting upon the fact that so serious a calamity had fallen upon 
our beloved land. 

As we approached the harbor of St. John's the excitement 
among us was intense. The head became somewhat confused as 
it turned from one object to another in the vast and noisy assem- 
blage around us. But when the ship had dropped anchor and I 
had landed, the overpowering sensations that followed were more 
than I can describe. I was in a constant whirl. It seemed to me 
as if I were just coming from death into life, and it was with dif- 
ficulty I could manage to control myself in the society of the 
many kind and warm-hearted friends to whom I was soon intro- 
duced. 

The news of our arrival soon spread through the town, and 
many persons flocked around the ship to see us, all expressing 
much surprise at our robust and healthy appearance. My Innuit 
companions, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, with their infant, also at- 
tracted much attention. Every where on shore we were most 
hospitably received, and I shall never forget the names of those 
in St. John's who so warmly welcomed me. 

On first landing I immediately telegraphed my arrival to Mr. 
Grinnell and to my own home, and received replies in a few 
hours. 

We staid at St. John's until the 26th, when we made sail for 
New London, where we arrived on Saturday morning, September 
13, 1862 ; and thus ended my voyage and explorations of two 
years and three and a half months in and about the arctic seas. 



566 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTER XXXYIL 

' r 

INNUIT OR ESQUIMAUX CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 

The Innuit Name. — Character of the People. — Their domestic Life. — Peculiar Cus- 
toms concerning AVomeu. : — Social and political Life. — Theological Ideas. — Be- 
lief in a Ood. — The Angekos. — Mingumailo and his two Wives. — His Ragi- 
against Koojesse. — Superstitious Customs of the Innuits. — Customs connected 
with Hunting. — Innuit Christmas and New Year. — Innuit Language. — Innuit Cos- 
tume. — Native Sagacity in studying Natural History. — Anecdotes of the Seal — 
of the Polar Bear. — Innuit Ingenuity. — Always ready in Emergencies. — Con- 
clusion. 

The race of people whom we denominate Esquimaux are, in 
their own language, called In-nu-it — that is, "the people." In-nu, 
in the singular number, signifies " man ;" in the plural, In-nu-it. 
" people," " the people," or (as they understand it) " our people," 
as distinguished from foreigners. The name Esquimaux is entire- 
ly foreign, and not to be interpreted from any elements hitherto 
found in their language. In illustration of its origin, a friend, 
who is philologically devoted, has favored the author with the fol- 
lowing suggestions : 

The appellation "Esquimaux" — of which the traders' term 
"Husky" is a mere corruption — is obviously derived from some 
Algic dialect, doubtless from the Chippeway or the Cree. The 
Cree language is very nearly the same as the Chippeway, the dif- 
ference being merely dialectic. 

In the Chippeway, ush-ke signifies "raw." In the same lan- 
guage, um-ivau signifies " he eats." From these elements we read- 
ily form the word usli-ke-um-wau, "raw he eats." And a noun 
derived from this verb, as a national denomination, must be some 
such form as Aish-ke-um-oog, " raw-flesh-eaters ;" the double o be- 
ing long, like oa in boat. Use has softened this name into Es-ke- 
moog (pronounced Es-ke-moag) ; the sh of the Chippeway becom- 
ing simple s, it would seem, in the Cree. All that remains is the 
consideration that the French traders, of course, used the French 
orthography. 

According to Innuit mythology, the first man was a failure — 
that is, was imperfect, though made b} T the Great Being; there- 
fore he was cast aside and called kob-lu-na, or kod-ht-na, as pro- 
nounced by the modern Innuits, which means white man. A sec- 



DOJUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 567 

ond attempt of the Great Being resulted in the formation of a per- 
fect man, and he was called Iu-nu. 

As a general statement, it may be said that the Innuits, among 
themselves, arc strictly honest. The same may be said as be- 
tween them and strangers — that is, whites, though with some 
modification. The Innuits have an impression that the hodlunas 
(white people) possess plenty ; that is, plenty of iron, wood, beads, 
knives, needles, etc., which is the reason why the Innuits, when- 
ever they meet with whites, always cry "pil-e-tay! pilre-tay!" 
(" give ! give !") And the word hodlunas, in fact, signifies not only 
"tvhiie people" but the people who always have plenty. I have 
no hesitation in saying that, as respects honesty, these unsophisti- 
cated people, the Innuits, do not suffer by a comparison with civ- 
ilized nations. 

While with the Innuits, I saw enough to convince me that they 
are a kind, generous people. As between themselves, there can 
be no people exceeding them in this virtue — kindness of heart. 
Take, for instance, times of great scarcity of food. If one family 
happens to have any provisions on hand, these are shared with all 
their neighbors. If one man is successful in capturing a seal, 
though his family may need it all to save them from the pangs 
of hunger, yet the whole of his people about, including the poor, 
the widow, the fatherless, are at once invited to a seal-feast. 

Though there is occasionally to be found among this people an 
evil person, yet, taken as a whole, they are worthy of great credit. 
They despise and shun one who will shag-la-voo ("tell a lie"). 
Hence they arc rarely troubled by any of this class. 

Children are sometimes betrothed by their parents in infancy. 
As Tooko.olito says, "Thd young people have nothing to do with 
it" The old men make the marriage entirely. When the be- 
trothal is made, the couple can live together at any time, usually 
decided by the ability of the man to support the woman. In oth- 
er cases, when a young man thinks well of a young woman, he 
proposes to take her for his wife. If both are agreed, and the 
parents of the girl consent, they become one. There is no wed- 
ding ceremony at all, nor are there any rejoicings or festivities. 
The parties simply come together, and live in their own tupic or 
igloo. It sometimes happens that two who are intended fur each 
other live together as companions for a term of probation, always 
without consummating their marriage. It may happen, in such a 
case, that the trial develops a want of congeniality, or what is 



568 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

called in a higher state of civilization " an incompatibility of tem- 
per." Then the two separate, and the woman returns to her par- 
ents. In all cases, love — if it come at all — comes after the mar- 
riage. 

There generally exists between husband and wife a steady, but 
not very demonstrative affection, though the woman is frequently 
subjected to violent usage by reason of some sudden outbreak of 
temper on the man's part, and though, when she is near her death, 
he leaves her alone to die. 

"When a child is born, the mother is attended by one or more 
of her own sex ; even the husband is not allowed to be present. 
If it is a first child, the birth takes place in the usual tupic or ig- 
loo ;* if it is a second, or any other than the first, a separate tupic- 
or igloo is built for the mother's use, and to that she must re- 
move. Male children are desired in preference to females, but 
no difference is made in their treatment, and there are always re- 
joicings and congratulatory visits when an infant is born. Im- 
mediately after the birth, the infant's head must be firmly squeezed 
side to side with the hands, and a little skin cap placed tightly 
over the compressed head, which is to be kept there for one year. 
This custom prevails throughout the region of Frobisher Bay, 
Field Bay, C. Grinnell Bay, Northumberland Inlet, and all places 
known to me and my Innuit informants. The infants are nursed 
until three or four years of age. The children, when old enough, 
find their amusement in plajnng with toys made of bone and ivo- 
ry in the forms of various animals. When older, the boys are ed- 
ucated in rowing, hunting, and sealing ; the girls are taught to 
trim the fire-light and keep it burning, to cook, dress leather, sew, 
help row the oomiens, and to do various other kinds of work. 

The women are not prolific. I believe they consider children 
troublesome. The race is fast dying out. Not many years more 
and the " Innuit" will be extinct. 

The affection of the parents for their children is very great, and 
disobedience on the part of the latter is rare. The parents never 
inflict physical chastisement upon the children. If a child does 
wrong — for instance, if it becomes enraged, the mother says noth- 
ing to it till it becomes calm. Then she talks to it, and with good 
effect. 

* There is an occasional exception to tliis rule, as in the case of Tookoolito. She 
was obliged to have a separate tupic. This was so ordered by the anpeko, because 
of Ebierbing's sickness. 



IXNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 569 

On Saturday, February 28, 1863, the infant son of Ebicrbing 
and Tookoolito died in New York, aged eighteen months. The 
loss was great to both of them, but to the mother it was a terrible 
blow. For several days after its death she was unconscious, and 
for a part of the time delirious. When she began to recover from 
this state she expressed a longing desire to die, and be with her 
lost Tuk-e-Jihe-ta. The child was greatly beloved by both of the 
parents. In truth — I must be allowed to diverge here for a mo- 
ment — there was cause for their great affection, and reason for pe- 
culiar grief on the part of the bereaved mother. I never saw a 
more animated, sweet-tempered, bright-looking child. Its imita- 
tiveness was largely developed, and was most engaging. Tuke- 
liketa was a child to be remembered by all who ever saw him. 

For a certain length of time after a child is born the mother 
must remain in her own home, visiting no other tupic or igloo. 
The period for which this limitation holds good varies, sometimes 
reaching to the length of two months. At the expiration of the 
time she makes a round of calls at all the dwellings about, hav- 
ing first changed all her clothing. She never touches again that 
which she throws off on this occasion, and which she has worn 
since the birth of the child. Another custom forbids the mother 
to eat by herself for a year after the birth of the child. When 
asked the reason of this, Tookoolito only said, " The first Innuits 
did so." In respect to Innuit customs in general, it may be ob- 
served that they are often adhered to from fear of ill report among 
their people. The only reason that can be given for some of the 
present customs is that " the old Innuits did so, and therefore they 
must." 

Another custom in relation to their females is this : 

At certain periods separation igloos are built for them. The 
woman must live secluded for so many da} r s, and it would be a 
great offense for her to enter into any other tupic or igloo during 
this time. On one occasion, while on my sledge-journey in the 
middle of Frobisher Bay, and at the place of the tenth and nine- 
teenth encampments, I met Sampson, his wife, and family pro- 
ceeding to another encampment. While I was talking with them 
the wife asked me for something to eat. I was surprised at this, 
for I knew that Sampson's family were generally well provided 
with food. But an explanation followed. I was told that the In- 
nuit custom is for females, at certain times, not to partake of cer- 
tain kinds of Innuit food. In this case, Sampson's wife had been 



570 ABCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

nearly a week 'without eating, and was very hungry. I gave her 
what little I had of pemmican. She insisted on my taking some- 
thing for it, thrusting into my hands twelve miniature ducks and 
other sea-birds, carved in walrus ivory. These I retain as me- 
mentoes of the occasion. 

The women, generally, are tattooed on the forehead, cheeks, and 
chin. This is usually a mark of the married women, though un- 
married ones are sometimes seen thus ornamented. This tattoo- 
ing is done from principle, the theory being that the lines thus 
made will be regarded in the next world as a sign of goodness. 
The manner of the operation is simple. A piece of reindeer-sinew 
thread is blackened with soot, and is then drawn under and 
through the skin by means of a needle. The thread is only used 
as a means of introducing the color or pigment under the ejDi- 
dermis. 

The longevity of this people, on the whole, in latter years is 
not great. The average duration of life among them is much less 
than formerly. The time was, and that not long ago, when there 
were many, very many old people, but now they are very few. 
Old Ookijoxy Ninoo, as I have already mentioned, once observed 
to me that there were no Innuits now living who were young 
when she was. She was, as I believe, over 100 years old when I 
saw her. She died a few months after my departure for the States. 
I learned this last fall (1863) by one of the American whalers, 
who saw her son TJgarng at Northumberland Inlet two months 
previous. 

The Innuit social life is simple and cheerful. They have a va- 
riety of games of their own. In one of these they use a number 
of bits of ivory, made in the form of ducks, etc., such as Samp- 
son's wife gave me, as just mentioned. In another, a simple string 
is used in a variety of intricate ways, now representing a tuktoo, 
now a whale, now a walrus, now a seal, being arranged upon the 
fingers in a way bearing a general resemblance to the game known 
among us as " cat's cradle." The people were very quick in 
learning of me to play chess, checkers, and dominoes. 

If an Innuit stranger come among them, an effort is made to 
conform as closely as possible to the manners of the section from 
which he comes, for it should be observed that there exists a great 
diversity of manners and habits among the people of different re- 
gions not very far separated from each other. 

Though in old times there were chiefs among the Innuits. there 



IXXUT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 571 

are none now. There is absolutely no political organization 
among them. In every community, with them as with all the 
rest of the world, there is some one who, in consideration of his 
age, shrewdness, or personal prowess, is looked up to, and whose 
opinions are received with more than usual deference; but lie has 
no authority whatever, and an Innuit is subject to no man's con- 
trol. The people arc not naturally quarrelsome, and theft and 
murder are almost unknown. When a quarrel arises, the two 
parties keep aloof from each other, sometimes for a long time. 
Sometimes, however, a mutual and elderly friend arranges the 
matter, and then a quiet talk often shows that tbe quarrel — with 
them as with us — was the result of an entire misunderstanding of 
words reported by gossiping tongues. If a murder is committed, 
it appears, from what tbe Innuits say, that the nearest relative or 
most intimate friend of the slain has a rigbt to kill the murderer; 
but this crime is very rare. 

Innuit opinions upon theo logica l questions are not easily ob- 
tained in an intelligible form. Their belief on some points may 
thus be very generally stated : There is one Supreme Being, call- 
ed by them Ang-u-ta, who created the earth, sea, and heavenly bod- 
ies. There is also a secondary divinity, a woman, the daughter 
of Anguta, who is called Sid-ne. She is supposed to have created 
all things having life, animal and vegetable. She is regarded also 
as the protecting divinity of tbe Innuit people. To her their sup- 
plications are addressed; to her their offerings are made; while 
most of their religious rites and superstitious observances have 
reference to her. 

The Innuits believe in a heaven and a hell, though their no- 
tions as to what is to constitute their happiness or misery here- 
after are varied as one meets with different communities. Too- 
koolito says : 

'• My people think this way : Kood-le-ixir-mi-uwj (heaven) is up- 
ward. Every body happy there. All the time light; no snow, 
no ice, no storms ; always pleasant ; no trouble ; never tired ; sing 
and play all the time — all this to continue without end. 

" Ad-k-par-me-un (hell) is downward. Always dark there. No 
sun; trouble there continually; snow flying all the lame; terri- 
ble storms ; cold, very cold ; and a great deal of ice there. All 
who go there must always remain. 

"All Innuits who have been good go to Koodleparmiung ; that 
is, who have been kind to the poor and hungry — all who have 



572 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

been happy while living on this earth. Any one who has been 
killed by accident, or who has committed suicide, certainly goes 
to the happy place. 

"All Innuits who have been bad — that is, unkind one to an- 
other — all who have been unhappy while on this earth, will go to 
Adleparmeun. If an Innuit kill another because he is mad at 
him, he certainly will go to Adleparmeun." 

They have a tradition of a deluge, which they attribute to an 
tinusually high tide. On one occasion, when I was speaking with 
Tookoolito concerning her people, she said, "Innuits all think this 
earth once covered with water." I asked her why they thought 
so. She answered, " Did you never see little stones, like clams 
and such things as live in the sea, away up on the mountains?" 

The subject of the religious ideas and observances of the In- 
nuits is nearly connected with that of their angekos, who have a 
great influence among these people, and exercise the only author- 
ity to which they in any degree submit. With regard to these 
angekos, it appeared to me that man or woman could become 
such if shrewd enough to obtain a mental ascendency over others. 

The angeko's business is twofold : he ministers in behalf of the 
sick, and iu behalf of the community in general. If a person falls 
ih the angeko is sent for. He comes, and, before proceeding to his 
peculiar work, demands payment for his services, stating his price, 
usually some article to which he has taken a liking. Whatever 
he demands must be given at once, otherwise the expected good 
result of the ministration would not follow. 

When the preliminary arrangements have been satisfactorily 
disposed of, the family of the sick person sit around the couch of 
the patient, and with earnestness and gravity join in the cere- 
monies. The angeko commences a talking and singing, the na- 
ture of which it is impossible to state more precisely than to say 
that it seems to be a kind of incantation or prolonged supplica- 
tion, perhaps mingled with formulas which are supjDosed to charm 
away the disease. At intervals during this performance the fam- 
ily respond, frequently uttering a word corresponding to our 
amen. As to medicine, none is ever prescribed, nor do the In- 
nuits ever take any. 

The duties of the angeko, with reference to the community, con- 
sist in ankooting for success in whaling, walrusing, sealing, and 
in hunting certain animals ; for the disappearance of ice, and for 
the public good in various particulars. These more public min- 



INNUIT CHAKACTEB, CUSTOMS, ETC. 573 

istrations arc accompanied by what sounds to a stranger's ear like 
howling, but is doubtless a formula, either handed down by tradi- 
tion, or composed on the spot by the angeko, varying according 
to the talent of the operator. Some descriptions of ankooting 
have been given in the body of this work. 

Even Tookoolito was not exempt from the general belief in the 
efficacy of the angeko's ministrations. One day, when visiting 
her, I found that she had parted with her cooking-pan, which she 
had always considered indispensable and of great value. On in- 
quiry, I learned that she had given it to "Jennie," a female an- 
geko, in payment for her attendance upon Ebierbing when sick ; 
and, moreover, she had in like manner given nearly all her valu- 
able things, even to some of her garments. I was hardly aston- 
ished, for I knew that the Innuits considered that in proportion 
to the value of what they give for an angeko's services, so are the 
benefits conferred upon the sick. " Make poor pay, and the help 
is poor ; good pay, and the benefit is great." 

On one occasion (it was at the time we were about to start for 
the States, but were suddenly frozen in at the commencement of 
the second winter), having seen the angeko very busy ankooting 
on the hills, I asked Ebierbing and Tookoolito what it was for. 
They replied, "To try and get the pack-ice out of the bay." It 
may be remarked here that this attempt to get the ice out of the 
bay was caused by the desire of the Innuits to have the George 
Henry leave the country, they having become tired of the pres- 
ence of the sailors, and being, perhaps, somewhat jealous of them. 
On the occasion referred to, the angeko had told the people that 
on a certain day they were not to do any work. Then, in the 
evening, he commenced his incantations ; and on that day it had 
been noticed by the ship's company that the Innuits went on 
board the vessel in their best attire, though no one then knew 
the cause. 

The general deference to the wishes of the angeko has some 
exceptions, though they arc rare. One such exception was this : 
One day in the month of July, 1861, the angeko Mingumailo, who 
had two wives, sent them from his tupic among the mountains 
to Koojesse, who was then staying at Cape True, with an order for 
an exchange of wives. Now Koojesse's wife, Tunukderlien — " Is- 
abel," as we sometimes called her — was something of a belle, and, 
though Koojesse had been a good disciple of the angeko, he 
would not now yield to his demands. He refused to exchange 



574 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

his Tunukdeiiien for either of the two wives sent for his choice, 
and the latter returned to their husband. Thereupon the ange- 
ko became so enraged that he immediately came from the mount- 
ains, and entered the village of tupics like a demon. He first 
tried to negotiate a peaceable exchange, and then attempted by 
threats to effect what he wanted. "With a loaded musket and a 
large knife, he prowled all night long around Koojesse's tupic, 
trying to take his life ; but Koojesse had been warned, and finally 
took up his abode in one of the white men's tents near by. The 
next day Mate Eogers arrived, and the angeko, fearing him, fled 
away to his haunt in the mountains. 

Another instance of inattention to the anseko's advice I will 
relate here. One of the former husbands of Suzhi was sick. 
The angeko said Kokerjabiu, who was at that time the wife of 
Sampson, must live with the invalid husband for two or three 
months, or he would die before spring. All the Innuits thought 
the angeko should be obeyed, but Kokerjabin refused to comply, 
declaring that she did not believe what the angeko said. Before 
spring, Suzhi's husband died as the angeko predicted, and there- 
fore all the people despised Kokerjabin. 

I will now mention various customs which have relation to the 
religious belief of the Innuits, though many of them can be ex- 
plained only by the broad phrase, "The first Innuits did so." 
When they kill a reindeer, and have skinned it, they cut off bits 
of different parts of the animal, and bury them under a sod, or 
some moss, or a stone, at the exact spot where the animal was 
killed. "When an Innuit passes the place where a relative has 
died, he pauses and deposits a piece of meat near by. On one oc- 
casion, when traveling with Sharkey, I saw him place a bit of seal 
under the snow near an island which we were vjassing. When 1 
questioned him, he said that it was done out of respect for the 
memorjr of an uncle who had died there. 

"When a child dies, every thing it has used, either as a pla}'- 
thing or in any work it did, is placed in or upon its grave. W r hen 
Tukeliketa, Tookoolito's boy, died in this country, some weeks 
after the mother collected all his playthings and put them upon 
his grave.* Visiting the spot some time after, she found that one 
article, a gayby-painted little tin pail, had been taken away, and 
her grief was severe at the discovery. In March, 1862, while I 

* The remains of Tukclikc^ rest in Groton, Conneelieut, in (lie burial-ground 
near the residence of Captain Budington. 



IXNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 575 

was in the Northern country, the wife of Annawa found beneath 
the tuktoo bed of their recently - deceased child a toy game-bag. 
A consultation among the Innuits who were then there was held, 
and the bag, together with all the articles that had been present- 
ed to the child by the ship's hands from time to time, consisting 
of powder, shot, caps, tobacco, and a pistol, was deposited at the 
grave of their beloved boy. 

There exist also among the Innuits many curious customs con- 
nected with hunting. They can not go out to take walrus until 
they have done working upon tuktoo clothing; and after begin- 
ning the walrus hunt, no one is allowed to work on reindeer skins. 
One day in March, I wanted Tookoolito and Koodloo's wife to 
make me a sleeping-bag of tuktoo skin ; but nothing could per- 
suade them to do it, as it was then walrus season. They " would 
both die, and no more walrus could be caught." 

"When a walrus is caught, the captor must remain at home, do- 
ing no work, for one day ; if a bear is killed, he must remain qui- 
et, in like manner, for three days ; after the taking of a whale, 
two days. If, however, he is on a hunt and game is plenty, the 
Innuit frequently keeps on at the sport, making up all his resting 
days at the end of the hunt. 

When a seal is captured, a few drops of water are sprinkled on 
its head before it is cut up. If there is no water to be had, the 
man holds snow in his hand till he squeezes out a single drop, the 
application of which answers every purpose. 

"Women are not allowed to eat of the first seal of the season, 
and this rule is so strictly enforced that they do. not feel at liberty 
even to chew the blubber for the sake of expressing the oil. 
When Tunukderlien and Jennie were with Ac on my sledge- 
journey up Frobisher Bay, the first seal of the season was caught, 
and Uenry was obliged to pound the blubber to obtain the oil we 
needed, because the women were not allowed to do it. 

There is a regular order for cutting up a walrus. The first man 
who arrives at the captured animal cuts off the right arm or flip- 
per; the second, the left arm; the third, the right leg or flipper; 
the fourth, the left leg ; the fifth, a portion of the body, beginning 
at the neck, and so on till the whole is disposed of. 

One very curious custom among the Innuits is this : At a time 
of the year apparently answering to our Christmas, they have a 
general meeting in a large igloo on a certain evening. There the 
angeko prays on behalf of the people*for the public prosperity 



576 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

through the subsequent year. Then follows something like a 
feast. The next day all go out into the open air and form in a 
circle ; in the centre is placed a vessel of water, and each member 
of the company brings a bit of meat, the kind being immaterial. 
The circle being formed, each person eats his or her meat in si- 
lence, thinking of Sidne, and wishing for good things. Then one 
in the circle takes a cup, dips up some of the water, all the time 
thinking of Sidne, and drinks it ; and then, before passing the cup 
to another, states audibly the time and the place of his or her 
birth. This ceremony is performed by all in succession. Final- 
ly, presents of various articles are thrown from one to another, 
with the idea that each will receive of Sidne good things in pro- 
portion to the liberality here shown. 

Soon after this occasion, at a time which answers to our New 
Year's day, two men start out, one of them being dressed to rep- 
resent a woman, and go to every igloo in the village, blowing out 
the light in each. The lights are afterward rekindled from a fresh 
lire. When Tookoolito was asked the meaning of this, she re- 
plied, " New sun — new light," implying a belief that the sun was 
at that time renewed for the year. 

When one of these meetings and outdoor ceremonies took 
pkce, I was absent from the village where most of my Innuit 
friends were living. Koojesse, Sharkey, and others wished to have 
me sent for, thinking I would like to be present ; but old Artark- 
paru objected, fearing that I should grow weary before the cere- 
mony was complete, and, retiring from the circle, break the charm. 
So I was not sent for, but was obliged to gain my information 
from the natives. 

The language of this people is peculiar to themselves. They 
have nothing written, and all that they can tell is derived from 
oral tradition, handed down from parent to child for many gener- 
ations. The pronunciation of the same words by Esquimaux liv- 
ing a considerable distance apart, and having little intercourse, is 
so different that they can hardly understand each other on com- 
ing together. It was with the greatest difficulty that the Inuuits 
who came to Field Bay from Sekoselar, or any other place on 
the northern shores of Hudson's Strait, could make themselves 
understood by Innuits residing north of them. Sometimes Inuu- 
its arrive from Igloolik (which is at the entrance to the Strait of 
Fury and Ilecla), at Northumberland Inlet, and it takes a long 
time for the two parties to understand each other. Still more dif- 



INXUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. ,-,77 

ficult is it for a Greenland native to be understood by those on 
the west side of Davis's Strait. The Innuits with whom I was 
acquainted could count only ten, as follows : 



At-ton-sen, one. 
Muk-ko, two. 
Ping-a-su-it, three. 
Tes-sa-raen, four. 
Ted-la-nien, five. 



Ok-bin-cr-poon, six. 
Mok-ke-nik, seven. 
Ping-a-su-nik, eight. 
Tes-sa-men-ik, nine. 
Kood-lin, ten. 



However, there was this exception : Koooulearng (Suzhi), whose 
native place was on the north side of Hudson's Strait, could count 
to twenty. She said that all the people of her country — meaning 
Kar-mo-ioong, which is on the north side of the strait — could do 
the same. By signs — that is, by throwing open the fingers, In- 
nuits every where can and do count much larger numbers. 

The dress of the Innuits is made of the skins of reindeer and 
of seals ; the former for winter, the latter for summer. The jack- 
et is round, with no opening in front or behind, but is slipped on 
and off over the head. It is close-fitting, but not tight. It comes 
as low as the hips, and has sleeves reaching to the wrists. The 
women have a long tail to their coat reaching nearly to the 
ground. These jackets are often very elaborately ornamented. 
In one of my visits to Sampson, I noticed that his wife's jacket 
was trimmed thus : Across the neck of the jacket was a fringe of 
beads — eighty pendents of red, blue, black, and white glass beads, 
forty beads on each string. Bowls of Britannia metal tea-spoons 
and table-spoons were on the flap hanging in front. A row of 
elongated lead shot ran around the border of the tail. Six pairs of 
federal copper cents, of various dates, were pendent down the mid- 
dle of the tail ; and a huge brass bell, from an old-fashioned clock, 
was at the top of the row of cents. 

On another occasion, Tweroong, the wife of Miner, came on 
board with a dress made of the fur of very young deer, with a 
spencer of reindeer hair cut off short, and so evenly that I could 
not well understand how it was done. I made her a present of a 
lady's hand dressing-glass, wdiich sent her into ecstasies, especial]}- 
when she found it would enable her better to arrange her hair. 

All the jackets have a hood made at the back for carrying their 
children or covering their heads in cold weather. In winter they 
wear two jackets: the exterior one with the hair outside, the in- 
ner one with the hair next to the body. Before the men enter 
into the main igloo they take off the outer part of their jackets, 

Oo 



578 



ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 



and place the same in a recess made in the snow wall of the pas- 
sage-way. 

Their breeches reach below the knee, and are fastened with a 
string drawn tightly around the lower part of the waist. Those 
worn by the women are put on in three pieces, each leg and the 
body forming separate parts. 

The full winter dress for the feet consists of, 1st. Long stockings 
of reindeer fur, with the hair next the person ; 2d. Socks of the 
eider duck skins, with the feathers on and inside ; 3d. Socks of 
sealskin, with the hair outside ; 4th. Kumings [native boots], with 
legs of tuktoo, the fur outside, and the soles of ookgook. 

All wear mittens, though the women generally wear only one, 
and that on the right hand ; the left is drawn within the sleeve. 
Finger-rings and head-bands of polished brass also form part of 
the female costume. 

The Innuits show a re- 
markable sagacity in stud- 
ying the habits' of their 
animals, and gaining there- 
from lessons of value for 
their own guidance. They 
observe how the seal con- 
structs its igloo or snow 
hut, and their own winter 
dwelling is formed upon 
this model. The accom- 
panying illustration gives 
a sectional view of a seal's 
hole and igloo, with the 
young one lying within, 
and the mother coming up 
to visit it. By the time 
the sun melts off the cov- 
ering snow, exposing and 
destroying the dome of the 
igloo, the young seal is 




NO. 1, SECTIONAL VIEW OF SEAL HOLE ASD SEAL IGLOO.' 



* The horizontal lines extending across the lower part of the engraving represent 
the sea-water, as do the short lines running in the same direction within the seal 
hole which is through the ice. The ice is represented by the perpendicular lines on 
cither side of the seal hole. Resting on the ice are a young seal and the igloo, the 
latter shown by the dark half circle. On either side and above the igloo is the snow 



INN LIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 



579 



ready to take care of itself. 
The second engraving rep- 
resents a seal that has just 
come up through the wa- 
ter to its breathing-hole, 
which is covered by snow. 
Above it sits an Innuit, 
who has pierced the snow 
with his spear just over the 
seal's hole in the ice, and 
who watches till he hears 
the animal puff, then cpnick- 
ly and almost unerringly 
strikes. 

From the polar bear, too, 
the Innuits learn much. 
The manner of approach- 
I ing the seal which is on the 
ice by its hole basking in 
the sunshine is from him. 
The bear lies down and 
crawls by hitches toward 

covering the sea-ice. Before the igloo is made, the prospective mother, to get her- 
self upon the ice, scratches away the inverted tunnel-like-shaped ice, as seen in the 
second engraving. The igloo is then made by the seal scratching an excavation 
from the snow with the sharp, lady-like nails with which its fore flippers are armed, 
the excavated snow being taken down beneath the thick ice from time to time by 
the seal. Soon after this house is prepared a little seal is born. Seal igloos are 
made about the 1st of April, the time when the "pupping" season commences. 
None but very sharp-scented animals can find these igloos, and they are the seals' 
worst enemies. These animals are the polar bear, the fox, and the seal-dog. The 
latter, however, simply scent out the igloo, leaving the master to catch the game, 
while the bear and fox not only find, but capture it. When the dog has led his mas- 
ter to the secret seal lodge beneath the snow, the man retreats from fifteen to twen- 
ty paces, and then runs forward swiftly, leaping high and far on concluding his race. 
As he comes down he crushes in the dome, and quickly thrusts his seal hook this way 
and that around in the igloo, till he has the young seal quivering in the agonies of 
death. 

* The water, ice, and snow of the second engraving arc represented in like man- 
ner as in the preceding one. The appearance of the seal hole, and the bed of snow 
above, as they are during the winter season till about the 1st of April, is well repre- 
sented. The sealer is awaiting the seal's blow. It is time he was up and ready to 
strike, for as soon as a seal has its nose out of the water, as the one here represent- 
ed, its pulling noise is heard. When the scaler, by the aid of hifl dog, lias found the 
seal hole, he has sometimes to watch there two or three days and nights. The dog 




, bi.crlu.**AL vitw or m,,u. uvll.' 



5S0 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

4he seal, " talking" to it, as the Innuits say, till he is within strik- 
ing distance, then he pounces upon it with a single jump. The 
natives say that if they could " talk" as well as the bear, they 
could catch many more seals. 

The procedure of the bear is as follows : He proceeds very cau- 
tiously toward the black speck far off on the ice, which he knows 
to be a seal. When still a long way from it, he throws himself 
down on his side, and hitches himself along toward his game. 
The seal meanwhile is taking its naps of about ten seconds each, 
ultimately raising its head and surveying the entire horizon be- 
fore composing itself again to brief slumber. As soon as it raises 
its head the bear " talks," keeping perfectly still. The seal, if it 
sees any thing, sees but the head, which it takes for that of an- 
other seal. It sleeps again. Again the bear hitches himself along, 
and once more the seal looks around, only to be " talked" to again 
and again deceived. Thus the pursuit goes on till the seal is 
caught, or till he makes his escape, which it seldom does. 

In Chapter XXXII. there occurs a description of the manner 
in which a young seal is often used to lure the mother within 
striking distance of the hunter. This is copied by the Innuits 
from the habits of the polar bear. This animal finds by his keen 
scent where a seal's igloo has been built under the snow. He 
then goes back a little distance, runs and jumps with all his weight 
upon the dome, breaks it down, and immediately thrusts in his 
paw and seizes the young seal. Then, holding it by one of its 
hind flippers, he scoops away all the snow from the seal hole lead- 
ing up through the ice into the igloo, and afterward allows the 
young one to flounder about in the water. When the old seal 
comes up, the bear draws the young one slyly on toward him, till 
the anxious mother gets within reach, when he seizes her with his 
other paw. 

The natives tell many most interesting anecdotes of the bear, 

has indicated the precise point within a circle of about ten inches in diameter. The 
sealer, therefore, thrusts the spindle of his seal-spear down through the hard snow, 
seeking to find the breathing-hole, which is not more than one to two inches in di- 
ameter. After perhaps a dozen attempts, he finally strikes the hole. Now he care- 
fully withdraws his spear, and marks witli his eye the hole, which leads down through 
perhaps eighteen to twenty-four inches depth of snow. When now he hears the seal, 
he raises his spear, and strikes unerringly through the snow to the seal's head. The 
animal at once dives, and runs out the full length of the line, one end of which is fast 
in the hand of the sealer. He proceeds to cut away the deep snow, and to chisel 
the ice so as to enlarge the top of the seal hole, from which he soon draws forth his 
prize. 



INN LIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 



5S1 



showing that they are accustomed to watch his movements clos% 
ly. lie has a very ingenious way of killing the walrus, which is 
represented in the accompanying engraving. 




I'ji.m: ufac UlLLl.NU A WALlad. 



In August, every fine day, the walrus makes his way to the 
shore, draws his huge body up on the rocks, and basks in the 
sun. If this happen near the base of a cliff, the ever-watchful 
bear takes advantage of the circumstance to attack this formida- 
ble game in this way : The bear mounts the cliff, and throws 
down upon the animal's head a large rock, calculating the distance 
and the curve with astonishing accuracy, and thus crushing the 
thick, bullet-proof skull. 

If the walrus is not instantly killed — simply stunned — the bear 
rushes down to the walrus, seizes the rock, and hammers away at 
the head till the skull is broken. A fat feast follows. Unless 
the bear is very hungry, it eats only the blubber of the walrus, 
seal, and whale. 

The bear can catch a seal in the water. He sees it, drops hie 
body beneath the surface, allowing only his head to be visible, 
that having the appearance of a piece of ice. While the seal has 



582 ARCTIC KESEAKCH EXPEDITION. 

its head above water, and is looking around, the bear sinks, swims 
under it, and clutches it from beneath. 

When the sea-ice begins to make, we will say about the middle 
of October to the 1st of November, the female bear captures and 
kills several seals, which she hides away among the hummocks. 
Then she retires to the land and eats moss, the object being 
to produce an internal mechanical obstruction called " tappen." 
After this she goes to her deposits of meat, and feasts upon seal- 
blubber to her utmost limit of expansion. She is now ready for 
retiring to her winter's home, which is generally an excavation 
she has " chiseled out" of a glacier. Some time after entering she 
brings forth her young, which sometimes number one, more fre- 
quently two, and sometimes three. In this crystal nursery she 
continues exercising her progeny daily by walking them to and 
fro till about the 1st of April, at which time seals begin to bring 
forth their young. The bear family then walks forth, the matron 
snuffing the air. Perhaps it is charged with seal-scent. She then 
follows up the scent till it brings her to a seal igloo. When she 
is satisfied that all is right below, she prepares herself, gives a fear- 
ful leap — high and far — striking forcibly with her paws upon the 
roof, crushing it in, and seizing the young occupant of the house, 
soon making of it a dainty feast for the young polars. 

It is a custom among the Innuits, dating from time immemo- 
rial, that whoever first sees a Ninoo is entitled to the skin, no 
matter whether the fortunate person be man, woman, or child. 
If the captured bear is a male, his bladder, with certain instru- 
ments belonging to the men, must be placed for three days on the 
top of the igloo or tupic. If the bear be a female, her bladder, 
with one of the women's brass head-ornaments and some beads, 
must be hung in like manner. 

The Innuits show a remarkable degree of ingenuity in all the 
operations of life, and an astonishing readiness in emergencies. 
They thoroughly know their waters and coasts. An illustration 
of this is shown in the accompanying facsimile of a chart made by 
Kooperneung, which I have in my possession. 

When traveling with a sledge they are accustomed to coat the 
bottom of the runners with ice, thus making a shoe which is 
smoother than any thing else that could be invented. The man- 
ner of performing this operation is curious. The sledge is turned 
bottom up, and the Innuit fills his mouth with water in which has 
been mingled a little seal's blood, in order to give it tenacity. He 



INSUIT CHARACTER, CUaTOMS, ETC. 



583 



ESQUIMAUX CHART, No. 2, 

DEAWN BY KOOF-EBNETTNG (CUABLEY) WUILE WE WEKE AT OAPE TEUB, AUGUST, 1862. 




A. Frobisher Bay. 

B. Countess of Warwick's Sound. 

C. Lupton Channel, which leads down to Bear Sound. On the 
right is Lok's Land ; on the left, Bache's Peninsula. 

D. Cyrus W. Field Bay. 

E. Cornelius Grinncll Bay. 

F. Robinson Sound. 

G. Resolution Isles. 
II. Hudson's Strait. 

X. Cape True, on Blum's Peninsula. 



584 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. 

then sends it out in a fine, well - directed, and evenly - applied 
stream upon the runner, where it at once congeals. When, after 
some hours' travel, the coating is worn away, it is renewed in the 
same manner. But the question naturally arises, How can the 
water be carried without freezing ? The Innuit does this by fill- 
ing a bag of sealskin or ookgook bladder, and slipping it down be- 
tween his shoulders, under his clothing, the warmth of his body 
keeping it liquid. 

Once, while I was on a sledge-journey with Koojesse, I was suf- 
fering from thirst, and we had no water. Koojesse turned aside, 
and went off with his seal-spear upon a little fresh-water pond. 
I knew that the ice there would naturally be ten feet thick at that 
season, and therefore wondered how he expected to find water. 
After looking about carefully for some time, he selected a place 
where the snow seemed to be very deep, and there, after clearing- 
it away, he struck with his spear upon the ice, and very soon 
made a hole through which he obtained water. When I inquired 
about it, I learned that a heavy body of snow falling upon the ice 
would press it down, allowing the water to come up and collect 
above it. The surface of this collected water would freeze, form- 
ing a comparatively thin coating of ice, but leaving a reservoir of 
water inclosed, which could be easily reached, as I found to my 
relief. 

On another occasion, while traveling in a bitter cold day, facing 
a cutting breeze, I found great difficulty in keeping the lower 
parts of my body from freezing. The Innuits saw me ttying to 
shield myself and gain additional warmth by adjusting a thickly- 
folded scarf; this they took from me, made it into a girdle, and 
tied it tightly round my body just above the hips. This restored 
warmth to me at once, and warded off the danger of freezing. 



APPENDIX. 



i. 

TJie Present of the Rescue. — Page 20. 

Tras truly noble act was done at the suggestion of Henry Grinnell. He first con- 
ceived the idea; proposed it to the United States government; afterward, at the ur- 
gent request of the Secretary of State, Mr. Matey, cordially co-operating with it in 
the matter, and furnishing the most valuable assistance. His generous labors in be- 
half of this important project, already acknowledged in a highly flattering manner 
by England, are too well known to require from me more than this passing tribute. 

II. 

Sums paid on Account of the Arctic Research Expedition. — Page 30. 

It is but justice to record here the fact that the following parties made out their 
bills, as below, for articles sold to the expedition at cost or less than cost price. 
18G0. 

May 22. James Green, of New York, 2 self-registering thermometers $3 00 

■■ Anson Baker & Co., of New York, 6 guns, 1 rifle, duplicate locks, 

etc 159 00 

•■ 23. John II. Brower & Co., New York, 232 lbs. Borden's meat-biscuit 30 00 
■■ Stackpole and Brother, New York, pocket sextant, artificial hori- 
zon, mercury, and 2 pocket compasses 58 50 

•• 24. G. W. Rogers, New London, Conn., expedition boat 105 00 

" Wytte & Co., Cincinnati, O., meat for pemmican 171 50 

" " Geo. II. Hill &■ Co., Cincinnati, O., beef suet for pemmican 52 50 

• •■ H.W. Stevenson, Cincinnati, O., meat cans 10 50 

■■ •■ Hall's expenses from Cincinnati to Philadelphia. New York, and 

New London, and return (in February and March, 18G0) 55 00 

•• 1 cord of wood for drying meat 5 00 

" Man for attending to drying meat 8 00 

■• W. E. Alcorn, Cincinnati, O., canvas for sledge 2 00 

■ ■ Brooks & Co., Cincinnati, O., carpenters' work 6 50 

" Sundries, express hire, etc 22 00 

" 26. Cooper and Pond, New York, pistol, percussion caps, etc 19 00 

" 27. N. D. Smith, New London stationer; *:'. 77 » . .., 

:> pocket-knives.. §2 L'.". I 
" 28. Arnold and Beebe, New London, suit of sails and awning for boat 20 00 

■ J. & G. W. Crandell, New London, woolen shirts 7 no 

■ L. Corthell, New London, 200 lbs. lead 10 oo 

" " Samuel Dennis, of Xew London, knives, etc., 10 00 

" 29. Shcpard & Harris, of New London, clothing, etc . 16 61 

Carried over *%{)o 03 



586 APPENDIX. 

18G0. Brought over $805 0:1 

May 29. Harris, Williams & Co., New London, pipes and tobacco 20 00 

" " Anson Chase, New London, shot, powder-flasks, shot - pouches, 

caps, etc 40 98 

" " D. B. Hempsted, New London, beads and marine glass 13 00 

" " Smith & Grace, New London, " conjurer," etc 3 28 

" " J. B. Curry & Co., New London, " Resolute" sextnnt 20 50 

Nautical Almanacs, India-rubber chart cover, freight bill, hotel bill, 

team of dogs bought at Holsteinborg, Greenland 52 25 

Sundry expenses 24 90 

Total $98u OH 

Donations to the Arctic Research Ex]>edition, 18G0. 

B.Matlack, Cincinnati, O $30 00 

John M'Lean, Cincinnati, 30 On 

Benj. Eggleston, Cincinnati, O. . 30 00 
Mitchell & Kammelsberg, Cinn., 

Ohio 30 00 

Sellew & Co., Cincinnati, O. . . . 5 Oo 

Mr. Lincoln, Cincinnati, 10 0(1 

Joseph K. Smith, Cincinnati, O.. 5 00 

Col. John Johnston, Cincinnati. . 10 0(1 

J. Ogden, Cincinnati, 5 00 

A. G. W. Carter, Cincinnati, O. . 5 On 

Mrs. C. F. Hall, Cincinnati, O. . . 27 On 

Total $980 00 



Henry Grinnell, N. Y $343 00 

Augustus II. Ward, N. Y. 100 00 

Cyrus W. Field, N. Y 50 00 

R. M. Bishop, Cincinnati, 30 00 

Miles Greenwood, Cincinnati, O. 30 00 

George H. Hill, Cincinnati, O.. . 30 00 

John D. Jones, Cincinnati, O 30 00 

John W. Ellis, Cincinnati, O. . . . 30 00 

Geo. Dominick, Cincinnati, O. . . 30 00 

Jacob Resor, Cincinnati, 30 00 

Wynne, Haynes & Co., Cinn., O. 30 00 

William Wiswell, Cincinnati, O. 30 00 

James Lupton, Cincinnati, O 30 00 



Williams & naven, of New London, Conn., passage out in the bark "George 
Henry," and transport of expedition boat, stores, etc. Free passage home of myself, 
with a family of Esquimaux, consisting of man, wife, and child. 

Hazard Powder Co., New York, 250 lbs. rifle powder. 

Marshall Lefferts, New York, 800 lbs shot. 

J. N. Harris, New London, Conn., hardware, $22. 

F. L. Knceland, New York, keg of rifle powder. 

Thomas H. Bates & Co., New York, fish-hooks, 9 m. needles, and 2 dozen sewing- 
cushions. 

M'Allister & Brother, Philadelphia, spy-glass. 

J. & B. Bruce, Cincinnati, O., making sledge. 

Royer, Simonton & Co., Cincinnati, O., furnishing material for sledge. 

George T. Jones & Thomas H. Newell, Cincinnati, O., 2 blank journal books made 
of bank-note paper. 

Hamlen & Smith, Cincinnati, O., 1 dirk and a tooth extractor. 

Dr. O. E. Newton and Allen & Sons, Cincinnati, O., chest of medicines. 

C. F.Bradley, Cincinnati, O., gold pen. 

J. L. Wavne, Cincinnati, O., half a dozen small butcher knives. 

Lowell Fletcher, Cincinnati, O., 10 gallons alcohol, 95 per cent, proof. 

Henry Ware, Cincinnati, O., pocket compass. 

Robert Clarke & Co., Cincinnati, O., ''Gillespie's Land Surveying.'' 

Dr. D.N. Daniels, Cincinnati, O., 1 trunk. 

Dr. Howe, Cincinnati, O., a valuable surgical work. 

Charles G. Morris, Cincinnati, O., printing. 



APPENDIX. 587 

George S. Blanchard, Cincinnati, 0., "Principles of Zoology." 

David Christy, Cincinnati, 0., Geological Chart of the Arctic Regions, by himself 

James Lupton, Cincinnati, 0., -' vuls. "Scoresby's Arctic Regions," 1 fine pocket 
knife. 

Benjamin Pike & Sons, New York, 3 thermometers, 1 azimuth compass. 

Benjamin Kittiedge & Co., Cincinnati, O., silver alarm-whistle and dirk-knife. 

Z. B. Coffin, Cincinnati, O., 1 lb. tea. 

Charles Lawrence, Cincinnati, 0., 2G lbs. best powder.* 

Mr. Robinson, Cincinnati, O., use of malt-kiln for desiccating meat for pemmican. 

George II. Hill & Co., Cincinnati, O., putting up pemmican in cans. 

John W. Ellis, Cincinnati, O., Labrador seal-boots. 

Baker & Co., New York, 2 dozen pocket-knife blades, 1 glass flask, 3 dozen hand 
looking-glasses, 3000 common percussion caps. 

Amor Smith, Cincinnati, O., grinding pemmican. 

American Express Company, free transportation of pemmican, sledge, and case 
of books, from Cincinnati, 0., to New York City. 

Adams and Co.'s Express, transport of the same from New York to New London. 
Conn. 

In addition to those in preceding list, the following are names of persons who ren- 
dered me service in forwarding the interests of the expedition : 
Salmon P. Chase, then Governor of Ohio. 
George II. Pugh, then United States Senator from Ohio. 
Richard H. Chapell, New London, Conn. 

W. II. Clement, President Little Miami and Columbus and Xenia Railroad. 
E. and G. \V. Blunt, New York. 

Frank Clark, Superintendent American Express Company, Cincinnati, O. 
Charles G. Clark, Superintendent American Express Company, New York. 
John Hoey, Superintendent Adams Express Company, New York. 
Dudley Field, attorney at law, New York. 
William M. Grinncll, attorney at law, New York. 
Sidney O. Budington, Groton, Conn. 
Cornelius Vanderbilt, New York. 
William M. Edwards, New York. 

A. Brewster, Norwich, Conn. 

B. S. Osbon, New York. 
William C. H.Waddcll, New York. 

American Geographical and Statistical Society of New York. 

Samuel Robinson, Cincinnati, O. 

William A. Brooks, Cincinnati, O. 

Associated Press of Cincinnati, O. « 

Young Men's Mercantile Association, Cincinnati, 0. 

Associated Press of New York. 

William S. Campbell, Philadelphia, Pa. 

George W. Childs, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Little Miami and Columbus and Xenia Railroad Company. 

Pennsylvania Railroad Company. 

Cleveland and Pittsburg Railroad Company. 

Central Ohio Railroad Company. 

* Could not Accept this donation, an no means of transport for so hazardous an article cmM bo 
procured. 



588 APPENDIX. 

Steubenville and Indiana Railroad Company. 
Telegraph Company between Cincinnati and New York. 
Telegraph Company between New York and Philadelphia. 
Telegraph Company between New York and New Loudon. 
Governor Bannerman, St. John's, Newfoundland. 
Converse O. Leach, United States Consul, St. John's, Newfoundland. 
A. M. Mackay, Superintendent New York and Newfoundland Telegraph Company, 
St John's, Newfoundland. 

Robert Winton, editor and proprietor " Daily News,'' St. John's, Newfoundland. 
Francis Winton, editor and proprietor "Day Book," St. John's, Newfoundland. 
Mrs. S. Knight, of the Knight House, St. John's, Newfoundland. 
Mrs. Warrington, of the Union Hotel, St. John's, Newfoundland. 
J. C. Toussaint, of the Hotel de Paris, St. John's, Newfoundland. 
Kenneth M'Lea, merchant, St. John's, Newfoundland. 

III. 

Danish Currency. — Page 52. 

The Danish dollar, at the time of writing (ISGO), was worth fifty-five cents of 
American money. 

The following is the interpretation of the Danish of the six skilling note on page 54 ■ 
"No. 6 skillings C[ountrv] m[oney], 2450. 

"This order is good for Six Skillings Country Currency at the Commercial Towns 
in Greenland. Copenhagen, 1856. 

"Noted [in the Registry or Records], 
"L * * * * *." 
One of these skillings is worth about half a cent. U. S. federal money. 

IV. 

Pim-ma-in, or Chiefs. — Page 101. 

" Pim-ma-in," a term used in former times among the Innuits for the principal 
man (or chief) among them. It is now obsolete, as there are no chiefs or rulers 
among them. Every man is now on an equality one with another. 

V. 

Frobisher's "Gold."— Page 132. 

The matter of the Frobisher "gold" or iron is sufficiently treated of in the body 
of the work, on page 437. 

VI. 

The Wreck of the George Henry. — Page 145. 

The following account of the wreck of the George Henry appeared in a New Lon- 
don journal shortly after the occurrence of the disaster to which it relates : 

"Captain Christopher B. Chapell, of Norwich Town, has arrived in the bark Mon- 
ticello from Hudson's Bay, together with the mate and part of the crew of the bark 
George Henri/, of New London, which has been wrecked upon the Lower Savage Inl- 
ands. She was forced upon the rocks the 16th of July, by strong tides in calm weath- 
er, heavily beset by large floes of ice, which, for the lack of wind, rendered the vessel 
unmanageable, and she became a total wreck. After saving a great quantity of pro- 
visions, stores, and other valuable property, Captain Chapell left the island, with his 



APPENDIX. 589 

whole crew and officers, in five boats, to make the best of their way toward St. John's. 
Newfoundland. Leaving the island on the 2Gth of July, they crossed down to Reso- 
lution Island 28th, when a stress of weather and much ice caused them to land on 
the r<>cks, where they were detained for four days, at the end of which time they 
launched toward Button Island, on the opposite side of the straits, distant 50 miles ; 
but, owing to calms and head winds, were thrown back near Resolution Island, and 
surrounded by a pack of ice. This closed together so quick upon their bouts that 
they had but just time enough to haul them up on the ice and save them from being 
crushed to pieces. Three of them were slightly stove. They remained on the ice 
three hours before it got so still Chat they could launch with safety and make for the 
shore, which the last two boats reached in time to shun a gale that came on sudden- 
ly. Here the boats were detained for ten days, both ice and wind bound, and th" 
rain scarcely ceased during the time, making their situation very uncomfortable. On 
the 10th of August they launched again, and proceeded on the voyage. Owing to 
lack of wind, they had to toil with oars for twelve hours, when with a breeze came 
fog and rain, that soon wet and chilled all hands. They then sailed among ice, mak- 
ing a course as well as they could toward Button Island, which they were unable to 
reach for ice. On the night of the 1 1th two of the boats got separated in thick, dark 
weather, and on the morning of the 12th a gale of wind came on, which, together 
with a high sea, discomfited the boats not a little. Consulting one another how best 
to proceed for safety, it was decidod to run for land, which was distant 25 miles. On 
running toward the land, they came to a heavy pack of ice, through which it was nec- 
essary to go, if possible, to reach the land, it being their only way of safety. They 
sailed on, and fortunately found the ice so slack that the boats could run among it — 
still heading for the land, which now appeared only about six miles, though it was 
much farther off, and presented nothing but perpendicular cliffs, up which it would 
be impossible for man to climb, and no prospect of saving the boats, without which 
there would be no chance of escape from the barren island, where they might have 
been delivered from the jaws of the ocean only to starve. So they held another con- 
sultation. In all eyes their hope seemed forlorn, and their hearts sank within them 
as the gale increased and the sea arose. Then all were ready to give up in despair. 
when, Io! a sail appeared — a tiny sail — and they rejoiced that the lost boats were 
still afloat. With the aid of a glass they made out a schooner, for which they steer- 
ed with joyful hearts, and. after a long time, were discovered by her captain and 
kindly received. It was then found that, two hours before, she had picked up tin- 
missing boats. Thus all were providentially drawn together, and delivered out of 
much danger." 

VII. 

Bob's Measurement. — Page 276. 
Kingwatcheung's (Bob's) measurement was as follows: 

38 inches around his body, over the breast. 

42 inches around his shoulders, over his arms. 

15 inches around his neck. 

22 inches around his head. 

C feet 2 inches in height. 

5 feet 3 inches from finger tip to finger tip. 
He was probably from 40 to 45 years of age. 

VIII. 

Frobisher's Expeditions. — Page 279. 

Frobisher left England on the 15th of June, 1578, with three vessels — the Gabriel. 
a bark of twenty-five tons; the Michael, a bark of twenty tons; and a pinnace, of 
ten tons. On the 11th of July ''he had sight of an high and ragged land," which 
was the southern part of Greenland ; but he was kept from landing by ice and fogs. 
Not far from that point his pinnace, with four men, was lost. " Also the other barkc, 
named the Michael, mistrusting the matter, conveyed themselves privily away from 



590 APPENDIX. 

him, and returned home, with great report that he was cast away." Frobisher, nev- 
ertheless, went on alone with the Gabriel, and after encountering much severe weath- 
er, entered the water which he called "Frobisher Strait," now to be known by the 
name of Frobisher Bay. He shortly after had interviews with the natives, several 
of whom came on board his vessel. The mariners, trusting them, began to hold open 
intercourse with the people, and a parry of five went on shore in a boat ; these were 
captured by the natives, and the captain could get no intelligence of them during the 
remainder of the time he spent there. Frobisher then turned his attention to ob- 
taining some tokens of his voyage to carry back with him to England. lie lured one 
of the native men on board, and took him off with him. "Whereupon," says Hak- 
luyt, "when he found himself in captivity, for very choler and disdaine he bit his 
tongue in twaine within his mouth ; notwithstanding, he died not thereof, but lived 
till he came in England, and then he died of cold which he had taken at sea." 

Frobisher reached England, on his return, early in October of that year. Among 
the relics and tokens he brought home with him was one piece of black stone, of 
great weight, "much like to a sea cole in colour." This, being accidentally put in 
the fire, presented an appearance something like gold. Certain refiners of London 
expressed the opinion that the specimen submitted to them contained gold, and a 
second expedition was quickly set on foot. This expedition was, as Hakluyt says, 
"for the searching more of this golde ore than for the searching any further discov- 
ery of the passage." 

On the 31st of May, 1577, Frobisher set sail on his second voyage, having three 
vessels — the Hyde, of two hundred tons ; the Gabriel, and the Michael — and in due 
time again entered Frobisher Bay. On the 19th of July he went ashore with a large 
company of his officers and men, and ascended a high hill, which, with much cere- 
mony, he named Mount Warwick. Two of the Englishmen then had an interview 
with two of the natives, a great crowd of whom had collected to view the strange 
spectacle exhibited before them. This interview resulted in trading to a considera- 
ble extent. Shortly afterward, Frobisher went with the master of his vessel to hold 
an interview with two others of the natives, meaning to seize them and carry them 
on board his vessel, intending to dismiss one with many presents, and to retain the 
other as an interpreter. They made the attempt at capture as agreed upon, but 
their feet slipped on the snow, and the natives escaped from their grasp ; thereupon 
turning and attacking the two Englishmen, slightly wounding Frobisher. Some of 
the ship's company, coming to the others' assistance, captured one of the natives and 
carried him on board. 

On the 2Gth of July, what was thought to be a very rich mine of ore was discover- 
ed in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, and twenty tons of it were got together. On 
one of the islands in Bear Sound a tomb was found with a white man's bones in it. 
The captive native, being interrogated by signs, declared that the man had not been 
killed by the Innuits, but by wolves. In the latter part of July, various portions of 
the clothing of the missing five men of the first expedition were found in York Sound. 
The finding of the clothes gave hope that the men were yet alive, and a note was 
written and left where the relics were discovered. These things having been report- 
ed to the others, an expedition was made to the point indicated. When the place 
was reached, however, all vestiges had disappeared, having clearly been taken away 
by the natives. The expedition penetrated farther from the shore, and soon came 
upon a village of tents, the inhabitants of which, to the number of sixteen or eight- 
een, put to sea in a boat. Being then hardly pressed, the natives went again ashore 
on a point in York Sound, where they were attacked by the English. In the fight 
which ensued five or six of the natives were killed, most of the rest escaping. The 



A1TEXDIX. 591 

party thereupon returned to the ships, carrying with them one of their own men dan- 
gerously hurt by an arrow, and a native woman who had been captured. 

Then all the vessels returned to the Countess of Warwick's Sound. Not long aft- 
er, the natives came to treat for the return of the captive woman. Frobishcr inti- 
mated to them that he demanded first the release and delivery of his five men. The 
captive man, who acted as interpreter, was at first so much affected at sight once 
more of his people that he "fell so out into tears trint he could not spcake a word in 
a great space." Then he conferred with them, and afterward assured Frobisher that 
the men were alive and should be delivered up, calling on him, moreover, to send 
them a letter. Therefore a letter was written, and on the 7th of August the natives 
took it, signifying that in three days they would return. At the appointed time they 
indeed returned, and showed themselves in small numbers, but yet brought no letter 
or word from the missing men. Moreover, it was observed that many of them were 
concealed behind the rocks, and it seemed clear that some treachery was meditated ; 
whereupon the English prudently kept away from the trap. By the 21st of August 
the work of loading the ships with two hundred tons of the ore was finished, and on 
the 23d sail was made for England. 

The show of ore which Frobisher took back to England excited so much enthusi- 
asm for another expedition that a fleet of fifteen vessels was ready to sail in May, 
1578. It was proposed to establish a colony of one hundred persons, who should live 
through the year on an island in the Countess of Warwick's Sound. This colony 
was to consist of miners, mariners, soldiers, gold refiners, bakers, carpenters, etc. A 
" -trong fort or house of timber, artificially framed and cunningly devised by a nota- 
ble learned man," was to be carried out in the ships and put up on the island. On 
the way out, however, one of the barks was sunk, and part of the house was lost. 

On the 1st of August the order was given from Frobisher, who had reached the 
Countess of Warwick's Sound, to disembark from the vessels all the men and stores, 
and land them on the Countess of Warwick's Island, and to prepare at once for min- 
ing. " Then," says Hakluyt, " whilst the Mariners plyed their worke, the Captaines 
sought out new myncs, the goldfiners made tryall of the Ore," etc. On the 9th a 
consultation on the house was held. It was discovered that only the cast side and 
the south side of the building had come safely to hand, the other parts having been 
either lost or used in repairing the ships, which had been much beaten by storms in 
the passage. It was then thought, seeing there was not timber enough for a house 
to accommodate one hundred people, that a house for sixty should be set up. The 
carpenters, being consulted, declared that they should want five or six weeks to do 
the work, whereas there remained but twenty-three days before the ships must leave 
the country ; consequently it was determined not to put up the house that year. 

On the 30th of August, as Hakluyt says, "the Masons finished a house which 
Captaine Fcnton caused to be made of lymc and stone upon the Countess of War- 
wick's Island, to the end we might prove, against the next ycere, whether the snow 
could overwhelme it, the frost break it up, or the people dismember the same." 
Again: "We buried the timber of our pretended [intended] fort." 

The fact that this expedition carried a large quantity of coal is shown bv the fol- 
lowing extract from Hakluyt, concerning the leakage of water on board the fleet: 
"The great cause of this leakage and wasting was for that the great timber and sea 
cole, which lay so weighty upon the barrels, brake, bruised, and rotted the hoopes 
asunder." 

On the last day of August the fleet set sail on its return to England. 

The following, upon the same subject, is from the "Gentleman's Magazine" for 
1754, vol. xxiv., p. 46: 



592 APPENDIX. 

" Philadelphia, Nov. 15. Sunday last arrived here the schooner Argo, Captain 
diaries Sivuine, who sailed from this port last spring on the discovery of the N.W. 
passage. She tell in with the ice off Farewell; left the eastern ice, and fell in with 
the western ice, in lat. 58, and cruized to the northward to lat. G3 to clear it, but 
could not, it then extending to the eastward. On her return to the southward she 
met with two Danish ships bound to Bull river and Disco, up Davis's streights, who 
had been in the ice fourteen days, oS Farewell, and had then stood to westward; 
and assured the commander that the ice was fast to the shore all above Hudson's 
streights to the distance of 40 leagues out ; and that there had not been such a se- 
vere winter as the last these 24 years that they had used that trade : they had been 
nine weeks from Copenhagen. The Argo, finding she could not get round the ice, 
pressed through it, and got into the strcight's mouth the 20th of June [sic], and 
made the island Kesolution ; but was forced out by vast quantities of driving ice, and 
got into a clear sea the 1st of July [sic]. On the 14th, cruizing the ice for an open- 
ing to get in again, she met four sail of Hudson's Dai/ ships endeavoring to get in. 
and continued with them 'till the 19th, when they parted in thick weather, in lat. 
62 and a half, which thick weather continued to the 7th of August; the Hudson's 
Bag men supposed themselves 40 leagues from the western laud. The Argo ran 
down the ice from G3 to 57. 30, and after repeated attempts to enter the streights in 
vain, as the season for discovery on the western side of the Bay was over, she went 
in with the Babrador coast, and discover'd it perfectly from 56 to G5 ; finding no less 
than six inlets, to the heads of all which they went, and of which they have made a 
very good chart, and have a better account of the country, its soil, produce, &c, 
than has hitherto been publish'd. The captain says 'tis much tike Norway; and 
that there is no communication with Hudson's Bug through Babrador, where one 
has been imagined ; a high ridge of mountains running N. and S., about 51 leagues 
within the coast. In one of the harbours they found a deserted wooden house with 
a brick chimney, which had been built by some English, as appeared by sundry things 
they left behind ; and afterwards, in another harbour, they met with captain Coff, in 
a snow from Bondon, who inform'd [sic] that the same snow had been there last 
year, and landed some of the Moravian brethren, who had built that house ; but the 
natives having decoyed the then captain of the snow, and five or six of his hands, in 
their boat, round a point of land at a distance from the snow, under pretence of trade, 
carried them all off (they having gone imprudently without arms); the snow, after 
waiting sixteen days without hearing of them, went home, and was obliged to take 
the Moravians to help to work the vessel. Part of her business this year was to in- 
quire after those men. Captain Swaine discovered a fine fishing bank, which lies 
but six leagues off the coast, and extends from lat. 57 to 54, supposed to he the 
same hinted at in Captain Davis's second voyage." 

P. 577, [under date] "Tuesday, 31st Dec., 1751. * * * The schooner Argo, 
Captain Sivaine, is arrived at Philadelphia, after a second unsuccessful attempt to 
discover a northwest passage. (See an account of the 1st voyage, p. 46. See also 
page 542.)" 

[On that page, 542, there is merely a list of all voyages to discover a northwest 
passage, etc., previous to that of the Argo. — Hall.] 

Macpherson ("The Annals of Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, and Naviga- 
tion," in 4 vols., London, 1805 ; vol. iii.)says: 

"This summer [Sept., 1772. — H.] some gentlemen in Virginia subscribed for the 
equipment of a vessel to be sent upon an attempt for a northwest passage. Under 
their auspices, Captain Wilder sailed in the brig Diligence to the lat. 69° 11', in a 
large bay which he supposed hitherto unknown. He reported that, from the course 
of the tides, he thought it very probable that there is a passage, but that it is seldom 
free of ice, and therefore impassable.* But an impassable passage (if such language 
may he allowed) is no passage for ships. But the impossibility of finding such a pas- 
sage, in any navigable sea, was, at the same time, further demonstrated by the return 
in this summer of Mr. Hearne, a naval officer then in service of the Hudson Bay 
Company," etc., etc. 

[Following this is matter that refers to the information the Indians gave Hearne. 

—Hall.] 

• This Virginia voyage of discovery had escaped the diligence of Dr. Forstcr, the historian of voy- 
ages and discoveries in the North. 



APPENDIX. 593 



IX. 

The Loss of the Bark Kitty.— Page 295. 

The bark Kilty, of Newcastle, England, sailed from London for Hudson's Bay on 
the 21st of June, 1S59, and was wrecked on the iee September 5th in the same year. 
The wife of the captain, writing to an arctic voyager with the hope that he might 
procure some tidings of her husband, thus states the material facts, as reported by 
survivors who had returned to England. After mentioning the date of the shi]>- 
wrcck, she continues as follows : 

" The crew, having sufficient time to provide themselves with every necessary they 
thought prudent to take into their boats, landed on Saddleback Island, and remained 
there four days, during which time they met several natives. They agreed to sepa- 
rate themselves into two boats, and to proceed up the straits in hope of meeting the 
Company's ships coming down. My husband, Captain Ellis, with ten men in the 
long-boat, and Mr. Armstrong, chief mate, with four in the skit}', left Saddleback Isl- 
and on the morning of September 10th, and at night, either from a snow-storm or in 
the dark, the boats lost sight of each other. The skiff, inshore the next morning, 
could see nothing of the long-boat. They then proceeded down the straits again, 
and sailed for the coast of Labrador. After sailing sixty-one days, they were picked 
up by the Esquimaux and taken to a Moravian missionary settlement. Finally, they 
arrived at North Shields on the 28th of August, 1SG0, and since then there has never 
been any tidings of the missing long-boat and her crew." 

The following, on the same subject, is from the London Times of Nov. 17, 1862 : 

"Mubdbb of British Seamen. — In September, 1859, the Kitty, of Newcastle, 
was lost in Hudson's Straits by being nipped in the ice. Five of her crew, who got 
into a small boat, after enduring great suffering by exposure to the cold, succeeded 
in reaching a Moravian missionary station, where they were hospitably entertained, 
and three of them sent to their homes in England next summer. But of the fate of 
the master of this vessel, Mr. Ellis, and the remainder of the crew, who left the ship 
in a long-boat, nothing has been heard until the arrival of the vessels from the Hud- 
son's Bay stations this autumn, when the sad intelligence has been brought that the 
eleven poor fellows fell into the hands of unfriendly Esquimaux, and were murdered 
for the sake of their blankets. The missionaries at Okak, writing to the widow of 
the master of the vessel in August last, say, 'It is with grief, madam, we must inform 
you that it is, alas ! only too true that the long-boat, with her master and crew, ar- 
rived at Ungava Bay, but that none of the men survive. Last winter, Esquimaux 
from Ungava Bay visited our northernmost settlement, Hebron, who related that in 
the winter of 1859-60, several Europeans in a boat landed at the island called Ak- 
patok, in Ungava Bay. They lived with the Esquimaux until about January, upon 
what the latter could provide for them ; but then, most likely when their provisions 
became short, the Esquimaux attacked them when they were asleep and killed them, 
stabbing them with their knives. There is no doubt of these really being the men 
from the Kitty, because the Esquimaux knew there had been another boat, with five 
men belonging to them, whom they deemed lost. They said one man of the mur- 
dered company had very frostbitten feet, and him the Esquimaux would not kill by 
stabbing, but showed him a kind of heathen mercy, as they put him into the open air 
until be was dead by severe cold.' It seems that these unfortunate men had been 
murdered for the sake of the blankets they had with them. It would appear that 
one of the Esquimaux wanted to save the three Europeans who lodged with him, 
but they met the same fate as their companions. The tribe who have committed 
this murder do not appear to have been brought in contact with the European mis- 
sions; and the friendly tribe who brought the information in to Hebron farther in- 
formed the Moravian missionaries at that place that a little farther north from Un- 
gava Bay, a whole crew, consisting in all of about forty men, were enticed on shore 
and then killed by the Esquimaux." 

Pp 



594 APPENDIX. 



Mineralogical and Geological Specimens. — Page 404. 

The following is from Silliman's Journal of March, 18G3 : 

" Report on the Geological and Mineralogical Specimens collected by Mr. C. F. Hall hi 

Frobisher Bay. 
"To the New York Lyceum of Natural History: 
"One of your committee, appointed to examine the collection of minerals and fos- 
sils made by Mr. Charles F. Hall in his late Arctic Exploring Expedition, begs leave 
to report that he found the collection of fossils small in number of individual speci- 
mens, and limited in the range of its species, but possessing great interest to the stu- 
dent of arctic geology. 

"The specimens are as follows: 

"Machrea magna (Lesueur). No. of specimens 7 

Casts of lower surface. " "3 

Endoceras proteiformc ? (Hall.) " " 1 

Orthoceras (badly worn specimens). " " 3 

Heliolites (new species). " " 2 

Heliopora " " " " 1 

Halysites catenulata (Fischer). " " 1 

Receptaculites (new species). " " 1 

"This collection was made at the head of Frobisher Bay, lat. G3°44' N., and long. 
G8° 56' W. from Greenwich, at a point which, Mr. Hall says, is ' a mountain of fos- 
sils,' similar to the limestone bluff at Cincinnati, with which he is familiar. This 
limestone rests upon mica schist, specimens of which he also brought from the same 
locality. Whether the limestone was conformable to the schist or not, Mr. Hall did 
not determine. It is much to be regretted that this interesting point was not exam- 
ined by him, as it is doubtful whether this locality may ever be visited by any future 
explorer. 

" The fossils, without doubt, are all Lower Silurian. The Machrea magna would 
place the limestone containing it on the horizon of the Chazy limestone of New York. 
The Halysites catenulata has been found in Canada in the Trenton beds, but in New 
York not lower than the Niagara limestone. The Endoceras proteiformc belongs to 
the Trenton limestono. The Receptaculites is unlike the several species of the Galena 
limestone of the West, or the R. occidentalis of Canada. Mr. Salter speaks of one 
found in the northern part of the American continent. This may be that species, or 
it may be a new one ; which it was we have no menus of determining. The Ortlio- 
cerala were but fragments, and so badly water-worn that the species could not be 
identified. 

" The specimens of corals were very perfect and beautiful, and unlike any figured 
by Professor Hall in the Palaeontology of New York. The Heliolites and Heliopora 
belong to the Niagara group in New York, but in Canada they have been found in 
the Lower Silurian. For the identification of strata, corals are not always reliable. 
Whether these species arc similar or identical with any in the Canadian collection, 
it was out of my power to determine. They are unlike any figured by Mr. I. W. 
Salter. R. P. Stevens. 

" One of the committee appointed to examine the mineral specimens brought from 
Frobisher Bay by Mr. Hall, reports that the specimens, though quite numerous, were 
mostly of the same general character. The rocks were nearly all mica schist. Some 
of the specimens were taken from boulders ; some from the ruins of houses, and had 
the mortar still attached ; and some were from the rock in its natural position. 
There was nothing peculiar in the rock, it presenting the usual variations in compo- 
sition. The other specimens were an argillaceous limestone, determined by its fos- 
sils to be Lower Silurian ; a single specimen of quartz, crystallized, and presenting, 
besides the usual six-sided termination, another pyramid whose angle was much more 
obtuse; magnetic iron, some of which was found in situ, and other specimens which 
were evidently boulders, and had undergone for some time the action of salt-water ; 
a few pieces of iron pyrites, bituminous coal, and nodules of flint or jasper. * * * 

" [The part of this report omitted gives reasons for believing the coal and siliceous 



APPENDIX. .Vj.:, 

nodules to have been brought from England by Frobisher, who, it is well known, 
took out large supplies and many miners, expecting to mine and smelt ores. Some 
'blooms' of iron which Mr. Hall found may have been the result of their operations 
with the magnetic iron. — Eds.] 

" * * * This theory is supported by the tradition of the natives, who say that 
the coal was brought there by foreigners, * as well as by the entire absence of any in- 
dications of geological strata so high up in the series as the Carboniferous formation. 
The siliceous pebbles seem to have served as gravel for the mortar used in building 
the houses for carrying on the various objects for which the expedition was sent out. 
No trace of any mineral containing silver existed in the collections. The sands sup- 
posed by Mr. Hall to be those in which Frobisher found gold have not yet been as- 
sayed. A small bead detached from an ornament worn by the natives was found to 
be lead Titos. Egleston." 

XI. 

Arctic Sledge. — Page 481. 
The sledge which I had made in Cincinnati, and took with me on my expedition 
to the North, was made after the sledge "Faith," the favorite sledge of Dr. Kane on 
his last expedition. The only difference between his and my sledge was as follows : 
Dr. Kane's was 3 feet 8 inches wide, while mine was only 2 feet G inches. The shoe- 
ing of Dr. Kane's was three-sixteenths-inch steel, while the shoeing of mine, on ar- 
riving at the North, was slabs of the jawbone of the whale (the article used by the 
natives), 1 inch thick and 3i inches wide. 
The dimensions of tho "Faith" (of Dr. Kane's) were as follows: 

ft. in. 

Length of runner 13 

Height of do 8 

Horizontal width of rail 2} 

" " base of runner 3b 

" " other parts 2 

Thickness of all parts 1J- 

Length, resting on a plain surface GO 

Cross-bars, five in number, making a width of . . . 3 8 

* Every thing that accms to them peculiar they refer to this source. 



THE END. 



* 



; 







./ Sei.ntlrri.ittiVX t 












J 



^. 



